scentbriefs

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I’ve always been fascinated with the Bernie Madoff scandal and while going down the YouTube rabbit hole I came across another very interesting scheme that was uncovered around the same time during the financial crisis of 2007-2008. This $750 million fraud was carried out by prominent Harvard & Yale educated New York attorney, Marc Dreier. There are some good videos on YouTube about the scheme including a 60 Minutes segment, but if you have time, there is a documentary film titled Unraveled (2012) which includes interviews with Dreier that is absolutely worth watching. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marc_Dreier

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I came across this amazing review of a mechanical watch that I own. The video is infused with great scenery and music! You’ll want to travel to the Italian Dolomites by the end.

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Chanel Sycomore - Fragrance Review

Hello friends.  Today, I am going to use this review as an exercise in brevity.  The name of the website after all is Scent Briefs.  Which was was the plan all along, to keep it brief and to the point.  So without further prolonging let us discuss Chanel Sycomore (2008).

There are plenty of blogs that go into in depth backstory about Sycomore.  All I care to mention is that it was a collaborative effort by Christopher Sheldrake & Jacques Polge.  Polge being the longtime in-house perfumer for Chanel, and Sheldrake of Serge Lutens fame (my favorite perfumer).

Notes included:  vetiver, sandalwood, cypress, aldehydes, juniper, & pink pepper.

Sycomore is a complex fragrance in design, yet executed with simplicity.  As a vetiver dominant fragrance, you will smell the rooty grass from initial application thru to the end.  It does start off with some bright & sparkling aldehydes which are common in Chanel fragrances, and then transitions into what I will simplify as a mostly vetiver & sandalwood affair.

This fragrance is a must smell for anyone who claims to be a fragrance lover or aficionado. I cannot over emphasize that point.  So what does one experience when wearing this fragrance?  A feeling of wearing one of the most luxurious fragrances ever created.  Bold yet understated.  Complex yet simple.  Mysterious yet forthcoming.  You can wear it in a comfortable flannel shirt or to a black tie affair.  Suitable in all seasons.  Who do I picture wearing Sycomore?  Someone with confidence who has a few years of life experiences behind them.  This is my favorite vetiver fragrance.  This is my favorite sandalwood fragrance.  A modern masterpiece.

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Frapin L’Humaniste - Fragrance Review

I’m very happy today to discuss one of my favorite summertime fragrances.

I first experienced L’Humaniste (2009) a year and a half ago during my stop to the famous Scent Bar while on a trip to Los Angeles.  I was immediately impressed and a few months later I purchased a full bottle.  It has been a warm weather mainstay for me since.  As you can see above in the picture I took, I have already gone through almost half of it.

The pleasant mix of notes include: citrus, bergamot, cardamom, bay berry, black pepper, juniper, nutmeg, thyme, peony, gin, oakmoss, tonka bean.

Frapin L’Humaniste opens up like a freshly made gin and tonic.  Sparkling citruses mixed with juniper.  There is also aromatic pepper combined with other light spices that gives this fragrance definition.  Underneath this blend you will find oakmoss and smooth tonka bean.

When I smell this fragrance I think of the color white.  It’s casual and relaxed, but classic and refined.  It makes me want to get outside and enjoy the summer.  Going to various events and local gatherings.  Enjoying afternoon cocktails in a backyard with a group of friends.  L’Humaniste is social, friendly, self-confident and well-dresed.

Summer is the season to make lasting memories.  Find yourself a good fragrance to accompany you and later when you spray it the good times will come flooding back.

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BOSS The Collection - Fragrance Review

The steady rise in popularity of high end niche fragrances over the last 20 years has sent the traditional designer brands scrambling to reclaim their market shares.  The game plan (whether it works or not) is obvious:  continue putting out their regular mass market releases; also offer a separate more expensive collection to the clientele who shop in their luxury boutiques around the world.

A few of these lines have been around for awhile now, but most of them are only a few years old.  No doubt an incomplete list, but here are the ones I could think of:  Les Exclusifs de Chanel; La Collection Privée Christian Dior; Armani Prive Collection; Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire; Tom Ford Private Blends; Prada Exclusive Collection; Hugo Boss BOSS The Collection; Ermenegildo Zegna Essenze Collection; Hermes Collection Hermessence; Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Collection; Cartier Les Heures de Parfum; Pal Zileri Collezione Privata; Yves Saint Laurent Oriental Collection and La Collection YSL.

As you can see, the marketing teams for these brands are not very creative.

A few of these brands have, however, put together some really nice fragrance releases.  Chanel, Dior, Hermes, and Tom Ford being the most successfully executed.  They typically range in cost from $150-$300.

I have been fortunate enough to try most of these lines, and I do plan to eventually write about all of them.

The first of these I want to discuss is Hugo Boss – BOSS The Collection.  I figure we might as well start with the worst.

BOSS explores the essence of finest fabrics through an exclusive fragrance by introducing the BOSS collection; five new elite fragrances for men. These rare scents are inspired by the feel, texture, mood and heritage of the luxurious fabrics that are intrinsically woven into their creation. A fresh take on a classic scent, it is inspired by the fine quality of BOSS tailoring and explores a world where fabric and scent are fused.

BOSS The Collection was launched in 2011 with five fragrances:  Cashmere & Patchouli; Cotton & Verbena; Silk & Jasmine; Velvet & Amber; Wool & Musk.  

They come in 50ml eau de toilette and the prices are $140 at the time of this writing.

I went specifically to a Hugo Boss boutique to try these.  I went in with high hopes, but they quickly evaporated.  No pun intended.  The first thing I will mention is presentation.  The bottles were all disorganized on the display; crooked and disheveled.  Two of them were practically empty.  I asked the sales associate if he had test strips to use.  He said he did not.  Grrreeeat.  His remedy was to take receipt paper out of the cash register printer and tear it up into strips of paper for me to use.  Classy!

I tried to put the experience up to this point out of my head and just smell the fragrances on my receipt paper.  I had not read anything ahead of time about what to expect.  In fact, I still haven’t looked up the note pyramids or what other people think of them.  Why?  Because they were horrible.  Cheap and offensively synthetic chemical concoctions.  I honestly couldn’t muster the strength to sit there and torture myself trying to pick out notes.  I would never wear these.

Other thoughts…Would you be surprised if I told you they are adding an oud fragrance to the line this year?  No, of course you wouldn’t be now.  Also, in my research I couldn’t find a listed perfumer for BOSS The Collection.  Heck, if I was commissioned to make these I wouldn’t want my name credited either.  It’s like a dirty secret you never want let out.

I’m honestly offended Hugo Boss try to sell these.

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Dior Fahrenheit - Fragrance Review

Dior Fahrenheit (1988) belongs in the hall of fame for sure.  It has sold very well since being introduced, it’s well known by many, still retains a strong following, and has a very unique smell.

Notes include:  bergamot, hawthorn, honeysuckle, nutmeg, violet leaf, sandalwood, cedar, tonka bean, patchouli, leather.

My opinion of what it smells like is slightly tainted seeing as I read what to expect before I smelled it for the first time.  However, I took my mom shopping while visiting her and she instantly perceived it to smell exactly like what many other people think it smells like.  Gasoline.  Yes you read that correctly.  Fahrenheit is floral and green with a heart of gasoline and leather.  Imagine smelling your hands after spending the afternoon cutting the grass and refilling the lawn mower.  Even in its unique smell, this often oversimplified fragrance has a classically composed structure of top, mid, and base notes that can be picked out with experience.

Here comes the letdown.  If you have read other reviews on this fragrance some keywords you might have seen include:  ultra masculine; tenacious; powerful.  Unfortunately, over the years this fragrance has been reworked and weakened due to international restrictions on allowed ingredients.  Dior might share some of the blame either thru cutting costs or trying to “update” Fahrenheit to be more appealing to the modern masses.  Believe me though, it still smells like petrol which for some people is a real turn off.  I have smelled some of the older juice, and the current version doesn’t seem to have that real wow like it used to.  That super macho smell has been dialed back and I even get a certain level of soapiness.  It also doesn’t last nearly as long as it used to.

If you have never tried it, I would highly recommend that you do.  The smell is very intoxicating to me.  Test it out and see how it works for you.  I would go to your local store and try to get a few samples to test on your skin.  ***Make sure that the tester is the current formulation***  I have included a picture below of what the current bottle looks like.  The picture at the top of this post is what the old bottle and packaging look like.  Note how the bottles have different writing and the box has different coloration.  I have seen a few stores that were selling the new, but the tester they had out was the old.  You might try the old stuff and then end up buying something that is quite a bit different in smell and performance.

As of today, I only own the current fragrance.  I quite enjoy it.  I think it is one of the best designer scents of all time with the caveat that it has slowly been downgraded over time.  In being honest, I admit I don’t wear it out at night very often.  I just don’t get that standout performance.  I personally think it does better in the daytime and warmer weather.  This way you are still pushing the boundaries of what is acceptable in those conditions which is the original purpose of this fragrance.  Perhaps a few sprays to wear to work or apply liberally on a warm casual afternoon when you are strolling around town.  Of course don’t let that stop you from wearing it at night when you feel like it.

If you do try it out and end up falling really hard for the smell of Fahrenheit like me, then hunting down an old bottle on eBay or your local flea market is your best bet.  The old bottles are fairly hard to find locally, but on eBay you can track them down if you are willing to pay the high price.  I really only recommend this to the biggest of Fahrenheit fans.

So maybe more with Fahrenheit than most you really have to ask yourself, “why would I buy this?”  Back in the late 80s & 90s you could pick yourself up a bottle of Fahrenheit and comfortably know that you were purchasing something that really stood out.  It was very masculine and daring.  Nowadays, depending on what kind of performance it has on your skin if you wear it out at night it’s possible you or others around you may not smell it.  Again, I recommend testing it out for yourself.  See how it works for you.  See what others say.  Determine why, where, and when you would wear it.  I love it for the smell and it’s history, but I know other people add to their collection based on functionality.

I knew from the outset I was going to end up discussing performance & reformulations.  This is often the case with fragrances that have been on the market for several years.  Typically I don’t like getting too involved in this, but in this case I felt it was useful because many of the other reviews and opinions I see out there fall more in line with what it used to smell like, rather than what it currently smells like.  Not only has the smell been altered, but I find its most suited occasions for wearing have shifted as well.

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L’Artisan Timbuktu - Fragrance Review

Ok.  Timbuktu (2004).  You can certainly go read the marketing material accompanying this fragrance.  Supposedly inspired by perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour’s travels to this old African city in Mali and a magical love ritual…blah…blah…blah.  That being said, I do have to admit the name Timbuktu does have a certain appeal and allure to it that cannot be dismissed.  I doubt I would have taken quite the interest in this fragrance if it were named L’Artisan #4 or something bland like that.  While I am making confessions, I must also fess up I do tend to gravitate toward several of these African & Middle Eastern inspired blends:  Timbuktu; L’air du Desert Marocain; Poivre Samarcande; Ambre Sultan; Fumerie Turque; Aoud Cuir d’Arabie.

I do recall Timbuktu being one of the very first niche fragrances I had read about, and therefore one of the first niche fragrances I ever sought to try.  I remember smelling it at Barneys in downtown Seattle.  I also remember it was not a love at first sniff.

Timbuktu claims notes of:  green mango, pink pepper berries, cardamom, karo karounde flower, incense, papyrus wood, patchouli, myrrh, vetiver.

It is a well crafted fragrance and has no single note standing tall over the others.  Having access to the note listing makes describing this fragrance immeasurably easier.  Timbuktu is considered a woody fragrance, however I would not be surprised if a lot people who smell it would not even realize this.  I find the pink pepper to show itself more than some of the other notes.  It’s a little green.  The patchouli & vetiver add earthiness.  The myrrh adds a slight medicinal effect with a bit of anise.  The incense, papyrus wood, and perhaps some sandalwood combine to give it a smoky woody base.

After reading that description most would assume that it is a heavy winter use only type fragrance, but on the contrary it has a bracing freshness to it.  It is dry and fairly transparent which makes it work beautifully in warm weather and can be worn in most thinkable scenarios.  I love wearing dry fragrances in the summer as an alternative to citrus or oceanic fragrances.  You’ll really stand out too as an added bonus.

One thing I have avoided in this review is imagery.  I could have spent three paragraphs telling you that you will feel like an ancient Egyptian pharaoh, an ultra suave Frenchmen, a Middle Ages spice trader, Hindu temple priest…You get the idea.  This is a timeless fragrance.  It’s beautiful actually.  This fragrance has lived many lives and has many stories to tell.  It is very human.

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Dior Oud Ispahan - Fragrance Review

When it was very first released I wasn’t that big on Dior Oud Ispahan (2012). I tested it at the Dior boutique on paper and also left with a spray on my hand. I didn’t find it to be an exceptional rose fragrance, nor the mystical oud fragrance of my dreams. There were some positive reviews of it put out after that about the smell and also how good the longevity was. I sort of brushed that aside for awhile. A few months later I saw a good price on a sales thread for a 10ml decant and decided, agh whatever lets get it and test it out further.

I have worn it out 4-5 times in the past few months. It has great projection and great longevity. 1 spray will get you noticed, 2 sprays is plenty, 3 or more sprays and you are basically seeking attention (which isn’t always a bad thing). I swear that I do not prioritize compliment factor as the main reason I wear fragrances, but I must admit with Oud Ispahan it has probably moved up a few points in my book because it so far has received several wonderful compliments.

It does have a fair amount of sweetness, but I do enjoy that aspect in Ispahan. I would almost describe this fragrance as a sort of rose cocktail. I still do not think this is a holy grail rose or oud fragrance. I do think it is fairly priced in it genre (no higher than the other La Collection Privée fragrances either), and less pretentious than many of the other high priced rose/oud fragrances who claim to use real agarwood extract. It is in my estimation more wearable and tolerable to people around you than some of the other ones as well.  I will still be on the hunt for a fragrance that really gives me the feeling of being an Arab sultan wearing the finest sourced materials available.

I would say this is a good purchase option if you are looking to add a going out/nighttime fragrance to your wardrobe as I think that is where it shines the best. It is different than what other people (especially guys) are wearing while still being people pleasing. It has so far kept my interest as well. I am not sure how my feelings will be after I go through a full 10ml, but as of now I would love to own a bottle of Ispahan…as well as it’s less civil sibling Leather Oud.  Overall, a solid release from Dior.

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Slumberhouse Jeke - Fragrance Review

Next up in my Slumberhouse series is Jeke (2008).  After reading about each fragrance from the Slumberhouse website, I was most excited to try Jeke.  The thought of humidors, cigars, leather, spice and woods sounded like any man’s fantasy fragrance.

Notes include:  tobacco absolute, cade, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin

Upon initial application, I was extremely excited from what I was smelling and where I was hoping Jeke was going.  There was a lovely mixture of tobacco and leather emanating from my skin.  It also had a nice undertone of woody smokiness from the cade, a species of juniper from the Mediterranean region.  The aroma certainly was reminiscent of a cigar bar or country club men’s lounge.  A walk-in humidor, leather couches, and men enjoying a nice hand-rolled Dominican perhaps while playing a game of poker or gin rummy.

I am unsure how I was hoping the fragrance would develop.  A nice aroma, but unfortunately I found it to settle down and lose it robustness.  Similar to smoking an actual cigar, I enjoyed it for a time, but after awhile I lost interest in Jeke and was ready to be done with it.

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Slumberhouse Vikt - Fragrance Review

As we continue our Slumberhouse journey, Vikt (2009) takes us back to the woods of Norne.  The notes given are oud, styrax, laurel.

No doubt this is the most difficult of the Slumberhouse fragrances for me to describe.  The description that Slumberhouse gave is that of rich syrupy saps oozing from dark woods.  When smelling Vikt, my mind is filled with thoughts of resins and oils freshly pressed and extracted for eventual incense burning.  I say freshly pressed because it is not smoky.  In fact, Vikt has a lot of greenness to it coming from the Madagascan laurel called ravensara.  Ravensara has a mildly camphorous scent, reminiscent of but milder than eucalyptus.  I like this addition as it mixes well and helps balance out the sweet metallic sap.  In the drydown, the sweetness fades and fragrance becomes more woody.

I would guess that marijuana lovers would enjoy the smell of Vikt.  I am not saying that it smells like cannabis, but the sticky resins mixed with the green notes do share some similarities.  Perhaps this is where perfumer Joss Lobb found some inspiration.

The only downside I am noticing is that it seemingly doesn’t last as well as some of the others.  I do not know if this is solely a fault of the fragrance or if in fact olfactory fatigue plays a part.

Overall, Vikt is one of my favorites from the Slumberhouse line.  It is more than a fragrance, but an olfactory experience.  One that I hope you will try.

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Slumberhouse Norne - Fragrance Review

The inspiration behind Norne is related to a genre of music that came out of Scandinavia called black metal. It is kind of a campy genre nowadays, but there was a time that it was a very unique genre, and with it comes a very unique way of thinking. I wouldn’t say misanthropic or nihilistic, but kind of isolationist and nature plays a heavy part in that. I wanted to create something that was kind of poetic and dark, like an Edgar Allen Poe type of morbid, nocturnal, dusky feel to it.          — Josh Lobb

As far as I know there is no exact note listing given for Slumberhouse Norne (2012).  The best available is: pine, moss, lichen, fern, fir balsam, resins, incense.

The uniqueness of Norne lies in that it is composed entirely of absolutes.  While this increases the cost from a production standpoint, it helps to create the most authentic smell possible that the perfumer is trying to recreate.  In fact, Norne’s ingredients cost so much, Slumberhouse is making little to no profit off of this fragrance.

Smelling Norne culls images of being in a dark deep enchanted forest.  The smells of pine needles, moss, cloves, split trees, pepper, and camphorous resins and balsams surrounding me.  This forest is alive!

While you may think a dark green, nearly black, fragrance would be difficult to wear, the camphorous and herbal qualities give it a bracing freshness in a most unique way.  However, I could see how some could possibly construe this to smell medicinal or similar to a hospital cleaning product.  For me, I find this fragrance to be dark and mysterious, but  with more wearability than you will find in any fragrance of a similar genre.  Beautiful.

For a fragrance that has only been out for around a year, Norne has gained many fans and has received overwhelmingly positive feedback.  I think this fragrance is exceptional and worthy of extremely high praise.  This is my favorite fragrance from the Slumberhouse line.  It is no doubt the best fragrance I tried all of last year.  The art, the smell, and the imagery is second to none.   I am captivated.

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Slumberhouse Sova - Fragrance Review

The first Slumberhouse fragrance I feel like discussing is Sova (2012).  The first interesting thing to note about Sova is that a full note listing appears to have been given.  I had read that Josh does not like giving out note listings, so I am not sure what prompted the change this time.  My speculation is that because of the very unusual raw materials used, he wanted to share exactly what he was putting into this one.  I would also speculate that this fragrance took considerable time and experimentation to create.

If you go through the given notes, 6 of them are highly unusual.  Those would be: hops; poplar bud; genet; araucaria; melilot; cassie.  I have never smelled these in fragrance before, and also had to do a search to find out what they even were.  Hops of course is commonly found in beer, but when trying to understand the valerian rust reference I found out that hops and valerian are herbs commonly mixed together to promote relaxation and aid in sleeping.  Poplar Bud scent profile is “a very complex and tenacious but soft aroma of apricots and prunes, and the fruity-floral osmanthus. Background notes include precious wood and leather.”  Genet (broom): Sweet, honey/hay-like aroma, with herbal tea and tobacco notes.  Araucaria is a type of evergreen coniferous tree mostly found in France.  Melilot also know as sweet clover naturally contains the chemical coumarin which has the smell of hay, cut grass, and vanilla.  Cassie is a flower that smells green, slightly sweet, with hints of powdery resinous undertones

The review is turning out be more of a botany lesson, but I think it helps in the understanding of this fragrance.  So what does Sova smell like?  First I will use some descriptors: tea, tobacco, hay, honey, dried grass, vanilla, resins, cocoa powder, hints of wood and leather.  For me, this reminds me of the smell of a high street tea shop.  One that sells fine herbal tea blends.  A black tea that has been blended with honey, vanilla bean, and other dried herbs.

Certain comparisons could be made with Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille, L’Artisan Tea for Two, or Guerlain Tonka Imperial.  Those fragrances are sometimes considered gourmand.  With Sova I struggle to quite categorize it.  You can certainly call it a gourmand fragrance, but I think it leans more heavily on the tea, tobacco, hay, dried herbs, and leathery facets; rather than the sweetness.  I do not care for most sweet fragrances, but this one doesn’t give me a toothache.

I enjoy the smell of this fragrance quite a lot.  I especially appreciate the time that Sova undoubtedly took to create.  Sourcing and experimenting with these ingredients must have been a long and tedious process.  My only real critique is that I have been enjoying some of the other Slumberhouse scents even more.

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Slumberhouse

Hello all.  I hope everyone is having a happy new year and working toward your goals for the year.

I have spent the past several years exploring the world of fragrance.  One area that I have only in the past few months begin to delve into is the world of indie perfumery.  To an outside layperson, calling fragrance houses like Serge Lutens, Le Labo, and Frederic Malle “big companies” must seem like a funny concept.  However, once you have immersed yourself into this world, you realize that there are much smaller operations.  Often times within the indie houses, the owner is the perfumer, mixer, bottler, and shipper.  A one person operation.

After discovering that there are all of these independent perfumers, I certainly wanted to get my feet wet and try some of them.  Around this time, I came across a post on Basenotes as well as a YouTube video discussing Slumberhouse.  After visiting their website, I ended up ordering their sample pack.  I have been trying them for the past two months, and am ready to give my impressions of them through a series of posts.

So let’s use the remainder of this post to introduce Slumberhouse and the guy behind it.  The perfumer’s name is Josh Lobb of Portland, Oregon.  I’d tell you about him, but he posted his own bio:

I was as able to gather some more information about him from an interview he gave last year.  He says that Slumberhouse is inspired by “urban and street culture, music and film, especially with hip-hop and graffiti subculture.”  He is completely self taught, and learned mostly through trial & error.  My impressions of him are that he is a humble, low key guy who makes fragrance because he enjoys the creative process.  He started selling his fragrances on Etsy in 2008 and has slowly gathered customers and recognition.  Josh also mentions that his favorite perfumer is Christopher Sheldrake (mine too!) from his work at Serge Lutens.

I think his admiration of Sheldrake is quite evident in his Slumberhouse creations.  If you have never smelled Slumberhouse, I would say that the houses of Serge Lutens & Nasomatto can be your reference point and give you an idea of what you can expect.  He makes his fragrance in Espirit de Parfum strength.  Higher than Eau de Parfum, but lower than Parfum.  Needless to say, we are talking about some potent stuff.  However while they are strong, they are still quite wearable in my opinion.  Wearable, but unconventional and unique.  They create an atmosphere, rather than announce perfume to me.  Of course if you enter a room people will realize that you are wearing a fragrance, however if someone enters the room that you are in, they may just think that the room has a great smell to it instead of pinpointing that it’s your fragrance.

Mr. Lobb uses a very interesting palette of ingredients.  Hops, poplar bud, genet, araucaria, melilot, beeswax, acacia, oud, lichen, pine needles, clay, cola, filbert, hay, cade, tobacco, fir balsam, clove, anise, copaiba.  Needless to say they are very captivating.

My next few posts, I will give my thoughts on some of the Slumberhouse fragrances.

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Le Labo Rose 31 - Fragrance Review

How do I love thee?  Let me count the ways…

It’s when you come across fragrances like this gem, that makes it worth smelling so many stinkers along the way.

When most men get into niche perfumery, the trend is to go straight for the Creed fragrances such as Millesime Imperial and Green Irish Tweed.  I think it would be in the best interest of many to bypass the Creed house and take a look at Le Labo Rose 31 (2006).

Named for it’s 31 ingredients, Rose 31 includes notes of rose, cumin, olibanum, cedar, amber, guaiac wood, vetiver, and musk.

Le Labo’s intention with this fragrance was according to them “to transform rose, a symbol of voluptuousness and unqualified femininity in perfume, into an assertively virile fragrance for men.”

The truth is that they could have named it Cedar 31, Cumin 31, or any designer house could have attached their name to it and followed it up “for Men”.  The point being is that even though this fragrance is named Rose 31, it isn’t overtly a rose fragrance.  To me I get a soft rose mixed with woods.  That combination is supported by the vetiver, musk, and amber.  And then there is the cumin.  This is the note that defines this fragrance.  I normally am not a fan of cumin in perfumery.  Often it is overdone and comes across as smelling like sweat and body odor.  In Rose 31 you are treated with a tamed cumin note, that is actually the first time I’ve enjoyed it in a fragrance.  The cumin plays an integral role dancing in and out of the composition dirtying things up.

What makes Rose 31 so great is that it is a fresh and clean fragrance, but has that dirty side.  I would classify it as a fresh fragrance.  One that can be worn in absolutely any environment and situation.  It would be well suited for daily wear at work or school.  But that subtle dirtiness also lends this one to be quite wearable for night time such as dates where you don’t always want to come across as Mr. Nice Guy.  Rose 31 definitely has some alluring qualities.

As for projection and longevity, I get about average projection.  It should create a nice scent bubble around you.  As for longevity, I have read where others stated that Rose 31 only lasts a few hours for them.  For me, I can get up to 12 hours on my skin.  One trick I have noticed with this one in particular, is to add a few extra sprays on your shirt and in particular the collar region.  This should help greatly.

Overall, I feel that this is a great fragrance.  Sometimes niche fragrances can get a little “out there”.  Trying to smell strange just for the sake of it.  Rose 31 is actually a highly functional niche fragrance.  One to purchase if you are looking for a top shelf signature scent to wear very regularly.  This one is absolutely worth every penny.

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Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille - Fragrance Review

Once you take an interest in the world of fragrance, it doesn’t take long before you are made aware of Guerlain. This is one of the oldest fragrances houses out there (founded 1828). Besides their longstanding classics such as Shalimar and Mitsouko, they also have some newer creations. One of them is Spiritueuse Double Vanille (2007). I will admit I did not test SDV out extensively before making this recent purchase. I normally like to sample out a fragrance several times, as well as testing it out against its competitors. But I wanted to add a Guerlain to the fold and this was the one I went for.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille includes top notes of pink peppercorn and bergamot; middle notes of cedar, Bulgarian rose, and ylang-ylang; and base notes of vanilla and benzoin.

A few of my favorite notes are in this composition and lent to my decision to buy it. Those would be pepper and rose. I definitely smell the pepper in the opening, however it fades after a short time period. The rose I can smell throughout even though it is not the dominant note. So what does this supposed double vanilla fragrance smell like? For the majority of the scent life you smell a very pleasant rich vanilla. So does this smell like straight vanilla extract? No, it is much more interesting than that. The resinous benzoin helps round out the vanilla and give it some depth. The cedar is there, but tempered. The florals play a role in what I would call the goldilocks zone. Not hiding too far in the background, while at the same time not being too in your face. Keeping this fragrance gender neutral. One unlisted note that surely must be in there is a pinch of tobacco.

So what are my opinions after wearing it a few times now? Well for starters I do wish that the pepper stayed around. That however is strictly a personal preference and not a knock to the fragrance. My only complaint is the sillage seems to be on the low side. It stays closer to the skin. So if you are wanting this beauty to work its magic, then you have to be in close proximity to others. It is however, very long lasting.  Spiritueuse Double Vanille is probably geared a bit more toward fall/winter seasons, so I wonder how it will fair then. Perhaps it will perform better in the cold weather. It has performed well in the late summer’s heat because it does stay closer to you. So you can get away with wearing it year round if you must.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille’s reputation preceded itself. I heard so many great things about it before actually smelling it. There are many that hold it as the best vanilla fragrance out there. Well, I haven’t gone out and tried to find each and every one of it’s competitors, but I would say I am currently in agreement. However, that does not mean that I am head over heels for it. I do rather enjoy it, but it is lacking some of the wow factor for me. Nevertheless, I would definitely recommend getting your nose on this creation. SDV is well blended and smells very nice. And you might just fall in love…