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The Ultimate ˎˊ-

In this post I share every single step you'll need in order to create a proper skincare routine for both the day and nighttime; as well as extra tips for a variety of skin needs, while also bringing attention to certain steps that may just be optional and those that are necessary for everyone.

Starting with your daytime routine :

Step 1 “Cleanser” :

Cleansing the skin in the morning with a cleanser is *actually* not always necessary (though a good idea in some cases such as if you use hair oils/hair products at night and have acne prone skin) OR in the case of having a lot of residual skincare from the night before, that is sitting on the surface of the skin in the morning. Otherwise it's fine to just rinse the skin with water and pat dry.

Step 4 “SPF” :

The only “mandatory” skincare for the AM is adequate application of Sunscreen. No cleanser or moisturizer necessary (as mentioned above). When applying sunscreen however you want the spf to be able to absorb and penetrate the skin directly as chemical sunscreen filters need to touch the skin to be most effective (it absorbs UV and converts it into heat). This is also why if you do choose to use a moisturizer before sunscreen in the AM (Step 3) it’s best to use one that also contains spf or, pick a moisturizer that is highly absorbent (such as a water based moisturizer) compared to one that is highly occlusive; so that it’s not interfering with the sunscreen penetrating the skin. Reapply as often as needed especially if out doors or in contact with sun exposure (like indoor windows). Every 2 hours is suggested from day to evening.

As for Step 2: “Vitamin C“ :

Is also optional, and most dermatologists I have researched or spoke with generally say to “decide’ for yourself whether or not you want to add it in your routine. This is due to the fact that it’s quite difficult to “prove” the efficacy of the L ascorbic acid with aiding in sun protection and even skin tone complexation etc. (This is ingredient your looking for to get the benefits of what Vitamin C products claim to do on the skin). This questionability is due to various factors that contribute to the Vitamin C product being “stable” and effective. I myself am not currently using a Vitamin C product in my routine (but have in the past) and will update this page on my previous/new experiences when I do reintroduce it. I will recommend that you only purchase a Vitamin C that firstly has “L ascorbic acid as its main form of vehicle. (This is the most reliable stable form of Vit C) and, that you also purchase it from a ”Derm Brand” which may make it an expensive purchase. (More info below in my personal products and recommendations section of this page soon).

Other Tips and notes for skincare in the AM:

Avoid SPF sticks and sprays as they do not nearly have enough coverage to protect you from the sun and remember that makeup containing SPF (though better than makeup that doesn't) does not contain nearly the amount of “Sun Protection Factor” to protect your skin as a regular sunscreen lotion would typically. Although I love makeup I try not to wear it very regularly in the summer if not an event; just so that I can apply SPF instead. Also keeping hand sanitizer with you is a good way to disinfect your hands if you do not have access to a wash station/soap/water etc.

If your short on time in the morning just apply spf after rinsing the skin with water and/or take your spf bottle with you! Remember to keep your sunscreen out of hot cars, humid bathrooms or freezing environments to keep the product effective.

For the Nighttime :

If wearing eye makeup treat this as Step 1, and remove with micellar water first (or product of choice) and cotton pads. Hold cotton pad to eye for about 15 seconds minimum and swipe across gently back and forth to remove makeup. This avoids harsh tugging of the skin which may effect skin elasticity or cause irritation. I like to take an extra cotton pad after, fold it in half and drench the “outer fold” to remove makeup from the upper and lower lash line diligently. Ignoring this area can encourage old makeup to enter your eyes. The reason why I prefer having this step in routine, as opposed to just using the same cleanser or balm as I would my face to remove eye makeup is because it’s more thorough in removal, requires less effort and is less messy which makes me more inclined to do my skincare routine on time when I need to. (That’s important!) But if you don’t tend to wear a lot of heavy eye makeup that requires some effort to remove it’s definitely fine skipping this step.

1. Cleanse rest of the face from sunscreen/make up/lotion/daily dirt and grime as need be with any making removing oil or balm cleanser. Make sure to double/triple cleanse as needed. I will often use cotton pads and micellar water to remove my first layer of makeup just as I did with my eyes and then follow through will the oil/balm cleanser as the second step. If i’m not wearing makeup, I don’t use micellar water on my face and just my cleanser of choice once or twice.

2. Apply serum/hydrating product all over face, neck and eyes. I consider this “the supplementary skin step”, similar to taking a supplement, you can choose to add extra serums, toners, essences etc. to aid in extra hydration, or even introduce products that may address certain skin textural issues etc. There’s a boat load of products you can choose for this step but you will never go wrong with a hydrating serum or essence to give your skin a boost that will make a visible difference than just using your moisturizer alone. Some choose to layer multiple products in this step and if you do the thinnest is generally what you would use first. Overcomplicating this step is common; especially for skin care lovers which may lead to various issues such as irritation from too many products. I left more details on my skincare page in the section below where I touch of various products causing irritation if you want more direction or tips on how to choose the right type of serum/essence/toner for you based on the intended outcome you are trying to achieve.

3. Apply a small amount of eye retinol to the under eye area only.

4. Apply moisturizer all over face neck and eyes (lightly dab over the eye area too, where you placed the retinol (optional). Dabbing is important so you do not move around the eye retinol. Alternatively, you can use eye moisturizer first and eye retinol on top. I prefer the way around, as eye-retinols are quite gentle on my under eye area so I benefit from that direct retinol-to-skin contact.

5. Apply Tretinoin/other related product everywhere *except* the eye area (both the under eyes and lids). Be careful not to bring the tretinoin to close the eye area where you may have spread the eye retinol product out so that you are not layering multiple retinoids on top of one another. Use cautiously around sides of nose, chin and mouth as these area tend to be too sensitizing of a location for many people to tolerate the use of this product. Any area that has repetitive dryness or flakiness (long-term) past the initial “purging adjustment” stage is too sensitive to tolerate the product. Using tret/other in these areas may be causing inflammation of the skin or barrier damage.

*** Optional Step apply an extra layer of any simple occlusive face/body lotion over the entire face if you’d like to seal in the hydration (optional)- when implementing this step after retinol its considered the “sandwich method” (moisturizer, retinol, moisturizer) which some claim helps the skin better tolerate retinoids but I use just to help to keep the skin’s hydration sealed overnight; particularly in the winter season when my room is blasting hot air throughout the night. I also found it helped when I was previously on 0.05 tret (a concentration that I felt was a bit too sensitizing for me at the start).

6. Always remember chap stick & Vaseline for the lips. Any petroleum jelly product ontop of chap stick of choice can be applied for extra protection. Petroleum jelly is optional but the chap stick is recommended.

Other tips and notes for skincare in the PM :

If you find a night in which you are tired before bed just cleanse and moisturize. This is the only mandatory step of your nighttime routine as the skin regenerates and “builds” itself during sleep and simply needs to be kept clean and protected. Just as failure to not address adequate sun protection in the morning with lead to premature aging and other potential complications- so will not sleeping with a clean face at night; so both steps need to be done committedly. Even if you chose not to wear sunscreen in the daytime (though I doubt someone taking that option is reading this page) washing your face at night is a basic hygiene practice if anything just as taking a shower is. So don’t be disgusting. 😂

In essence, products that will makeup your routine include :

* Moisturizer

* Cleanser that can remove makeup & be gentle on your skin

* Eye makeup remover (if you need it)

* “Hydrator” (essence/ampule/serum etc.)

* Night Active for FACE (Retinol/Retinoid/Tretinoin/Vitamin A derivative of choice etc.)

* Night Active for EYES (Retinol/Retinoid/Tretinoin/Vitamin A derivative of choice etc.)

* Lip Balm

* Lip SPF (non drying)

As mentioned above, for the entire detailed and thorough guide where I touch on :

My Favourite Products/Recommendations

Acne Prone Skin

Starting Retinol

Korean vs French vs Japanese products

Seasonal Skincare Tips + More!

Follow this link below to be Guided to my Skincare Site :

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Love, Sarafina

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