rcmaterialculture

[rcmaterialculture]

The Valley View Mall in Roanoke, Virginia is lined with well-lit window displays of various stores. Prominent in these displays are mannequins advertising the clothing of the store, advertising slogans and images, accessories, backdrops, and occasionally props. As seen in the photos above, the theme and message of each storefront promotes a different message and attracts a different consumer.

Storefronts are the space where most mannequins are housed. The other mediums used in storefronts include props, colors, light, and other visuals (Farrell 62). The specifics of these elements are geared towards certain consumers. One of the images above with the text “The New Flower Power” is an image of a LOFT storefront, which is a store geared toward young professional women. The mannequins depict tall, thin, women with an athletic build. The design of the storefront is simple and relays a message of feminine and modest pastels and florals for spring. The use of the word “power” attracts the female professional, while the simultaneous use of the word “flower” downplays the aggressive nature of the word “power.”

Mannequins are the physical embodiment of the ideal consumer for any given store (Farrell 63). They are the image of the target age, size, and gender. The depiction of this target group is the ideal rather than the average; most mannequins being more slender and taller than an average consumer. At Valley View mall, nearly every storefront can be described as such. An example of this is the Motherhood clothing store. Pictured above, it is a store that carries maternity wear and has pregnant mannequins. Each mannequin is thin with a perfectly round belly, when in reality no one woman looks like another when carrying a child. Despite the disparity in appearances, anyone can look at the mannequins in the storefront of the Motherhood store and immediately know that they carry maternity clothes.

One controversy with mannequins is that they reinforce the “cult of thinness,” as Farrell calls it in his book. Mannequins are smaller, taller, and more toned than the average American. This leads to the idolization of impossibly thin figures by all consumers, women and men alike.

One example is the children and teens store called Lane Bryant. It is pictured in the above photo with the slogan “inspired by #this body.” The store is geared towards plus sized women, however the mannequins are closer to the size of an average American woman. Additionally, the plus size underwear features a sizeable amount of fabric when compared to the Victoria’s Secret underwear (also pictured above). The differentiation in both size and amount of skin shown could lead a consumer to have shame for their plus sized body.

[rcmaterialculture]

Providing security at America’s shopping malls is a behemoth of a task; while Americans tend to oppose even the most basic of security measures such as metal detectors, it is becoming increasingly clear that simply hiring security guards is not enough. Take for example the case of the Mall in Columbia, located in Columbia, Maryland. Amongst other accolades, the city was ranked by Time in 2016 as America’s #1 Best Place to Live, but its centerpiece has been rocked by shootings in recent years – one in 2014 and one in 2015. This goes to show that even the most suburban of malls in the nicest of areas are not as safe as people once thought them to be. Roanoke’s Valley View Mall is not immune to these types of issues; on March 7, 2015, a diner at the mall’s TGI Fridays was stabbed following a fight that occurred just after midnight. These incidents are not considered as surprising here as they are in other areas due to Roanoke’s penchant for crime; the city is second only to Richmond when it comes to violent crimes per person in Virginia.

People are not quite sure what the best method is for preventing America’s malls from being cesspools of crime, both violent and property. A huge cornerstone of American culture is privacy, and residents tend to view any overt method of securing the places they shop in, despite things like metal detectors being one of the simplest methods of preventing store merchandise from being stolen and alerting security personnel if a person brings a weapon inside. This is forcing security experts to get extremely creative. More sophisticated cameras are starting to be used, and companies are attempting to develop robots that can provide security to the mall without making shoppers feel like a guard is following them or like their personal privacy is being invaded via the use of various types of scanners.

The most controversial method of attempting to maintain order and safety in America’s malls is the use of curfew laws to regulate when minors can be present on the mall’s property. The one used at Valley View Mall is typical; according to their “Youth Escort Policy” (pictured above) and Code of Conduct, minors must be accompanied by a parent or guardian who is 21 or older on Fridays and Saturdays from 6pm until close. Additionally, minors are prohibited from being at Valley View Mall during school hours unless accompanied by a parent, teacher, or guardian. As with most curfews, an exception exists for those minors who are presently working at a store in the mall, and violators are subject to removal from the property and/or prosecution for trespassing.

In theory, these policies serve to protect shoppers and the youths themselves from potentially being victimized by a juvenile delinquent, and protect stores from potential thieves. When reviewing research on the topic, however, it becomes overwhelmingly clear that this is an ineffective policy. No substantial evidence exists to support the use of curfew laws, and in fact research suggests that they are ineffective due to targeting the wrong time frame. Juvenile delinquency spikes around 3pm (right after kids get out of school), not in the evenings or on weekends when curfew laws are in place. Additionally, there is a huge concern that these policies will become vehicles for racial profiling. In Purchasing Power, Elizabeth Chin describes the fact that the minority children of Newhallville, a neighborhood in New Haven, Connecticut, were being followed around in mall stores to make sure they weren’t stealing anything. Many people are concerned that such incidents will continue to occur under the guise of enforcing curfew laws.

[rcmaterialculture]

Malls are typically big and present many different characteristics that can be analyzed and seen as part of the material culture in America. One of the big features that can be found in malls all over the country is the aspect of the ‘town center.’ As a major cultural aspect of American society today, malls themselves serve as sort of a town center for the community. Not only are they a center for the town today, but malls also hold some characteristics that represent what a town square would have looked like in the past.

Malls are a collection of stores and restaurants. So are typically town centers. However, there is typically an area, or certain aspects, of every mall that demonstrate the idea of a town square. Usually these areas are open spaces and contain decorations such as plants, lampposts, or even a clock tower. Typically these areas are where the big holiday decorations, such as the Santa Claus area at Christmas, are placed.

As James Farrell says in his book One Nation Under Goods, shops use design tactics to draw in customers and to help create a certain atmosphere. While Farrell is referring to individual shops, I think that the same concept can be used to describe the ‘Town Center’ feel of the mall. The designs of the mall, especially that of the town center idea, are there to invite consumers in. By using ideas and styles through the basic architecture and decorations found in the mall, it is very easy to make it look and feel like a town center, and thus invites customers in to mingle, shop, eat, or, sometimes, a place to hang out.

In this essay, I’ll use the example of Valley View Mall. As you walk around the mall, you can notice the various aspects of the mall that demonstrate the ‘town center’ feel. For example, located in the center of the mall, is a clock. Placed on top of the elevator, the clock stands tall above the second floor and helps to provide the ‘Town Center’ aesthetic. In addition, in Valley View is an area surrounded by restaurants and filled with tables, inviting consumers to sit, eat, and mingle. There are also a number of lampposts in the area and trees scattered throughout the mall, giving it an outdoorsy kind of feel. Finally, the last big example of a ‘Town Center’ that is found in Valley View Mall is the statue found near the Macy’s Department Store. This statue displays an older man, dressed in what appears to be 1950s-style attire. He has one foot up on a bench (a park style bench) tying his shoe. This, and all the other examples found in Valley View Mall, display the ‘Town Center’ aesthetic found in many different malls across the United States.

So with these ideas in mind, go out and walk around your local mall. See if you can spot anything that makes the complex feel like a town center. Whether it be something as little as the style of the benches, a clock, or even trees and other plants, see if you can spot something that draws consumers into the shopping center. Go out, have fun, and enjoy looking at your local mall with some new ideas of what to look for!

[rcmaterialculture]

Valley View mall, located in the Roanoke Valley, is a 800,000 square foot shopping mall that is the prime attraction for local shoppers. Valley View Mall first opened in July of 1985 by Henry Faison. Faison was flying over the land the mall sits on, which used to be a large farm, and immediately knew it was the perfect location for a shopping mall attraction. When Valley View first opened it consisted of five anchor stores, including some that no longer exist. In 2001, the mall was sold to CBL & Associates Properties, Inc. Since that purchase, the mall has attracted more well-known and prominent retailers.  

Over time shopping malls have changed from a convenient location to shop to a popular hangout stop for boys and girls of all ages. Elizabeth Chin, the author of book Purchasing Power, talks about the meanings of malls to children in Connecticut. The mall is also a milestone for many teens in our culture. When they reach the age that they are allowed to go to the mall alone is like a new beginning for them. As Chin says, “For these girls, going to the mall alone is a thrilling experience that allows them to be playful in ways that are impossible at home and in the neighborhood.”

I find the kiosk stands at the mall to be the most exciting. I think these areas are where you find the most unique objects and personalities at the mall. Kiosks are interesting because they can be changed so easily. Depending on season, trends, and current gadgets, the malls can bring in unique kiosks. Kiosks can make a mall unique from all other malls. Kiosks at Valley View Mall range from food vendors, to the Piercing Pagoda, to sunglass and cell phone vendors.

Of course, for children, adults, teens, and people of all ages, one of the most exciting factors of the mall is the endless options of food. What makes Valley View unique as well, is all the restaurants that surround the mall that are within walking distance. Inside Valley View Mall while there isn’t one established “food court” there are still endless options varying from classic pleasures like Dippin dots and Ben and Jerrys to sweet treats like Auntie Anne’s pretzels and The Cookie Store, to the classic mall food like Sbarro and Chick Fil A. As Chin also discussion in Purchasing Power, the food court is the prime place for the awkward encounters for teens. These teens are exercising their freedom running wild chasing boys through the mall, “At home they worry that men might be after them; in the mall they chase boys as if every day were Sadie Hawkins Day.”

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Malls in America are a world all their own. Shopping malls are something relatively unique to the United States that provide shoppers with an overload of sensory information. Music, lighting, advertisements, and just the general architecture and interior design of malls are all elements used to make the shopper have a specific experience. Within the mall itself, kiosks and stores do their best to make you feel a certain way when passing or entering. Shop windows provide a glimpse of what story they wish to tell, or what experience they hope to provide to the shopper. Each store is uniquely its own, which opens up the market for competition. Chain stores such as Victoria’s Secret, Hot Topic, Hollister, and Altar’d State all have their own unique layout, color scheme, music, and lighting. Store “design creates an imaginative space for the daily dramas of our lives, the soap operas that occur on our side of the screen” (Farrell 55). These elements are what provides the shopper with the specific experience they wish to have.

Sure, anyone can buy underwear and bras at Macy’s, or Target, but shopping at a store like Victoria’s Secret is a choice that each consumer must make. Target may seem like a store based around family and functionality, whereas Victoria’s Secret is clearly an overly feminine store that many people, not just men, feel uncomfortable entering. Victoria’s Secret stores attempt to make the shopper feel sexy, sultry, and above all beautiful. Unfortunately, many people who shop there, or pass by, feel slightly intimidated by the décor, layout, employees, and general marketing techniques.  The décor of the store is quite unique: pink, black, and white color schemes cover basically everything in the store. Photos of models line the walls in sexy poses adorned with the most expensive sets of lingerie. Not to mention the TV screen that lines the back wall, which shows a continuous loop of the Victoria’s Secret fashion show. Don’t even get me started on the mannequins of the store. They represent no normal or average body type, not to mention that the mannequins are always headless, the lingerie seemingly painted on. Though mannequins do not necessarily tell the story of Victoria’s Secret, the overall cumulative design is what either entices or repel customers. Aimed to be sexy and fun for women of all body types and races, this chain store is undeniably intimidating and overwhelming.

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The duality of shopping malls in the United States is a phenomenon that manifests unconsciously in the behaviors and attitudes of American shoppers. Most notably, the idea of the mall as a sort of amusement park or interactive entertainment experience gives the space a new use that deviates from its most utilitarian function: to provide goods to a consumer. In his book, "One Nation Under Goods", James Farrell introduces the idea that malls are multifunctional and because of this there is no “right” way to interact with the space. In Valley View Mall, there are obviously retailers, restaurants, and services provided, but there are also several simple rides, play areas, and interactive experiences primarily for preschool and elementary school-aged children. These “attractions” reflect Farrell’s assertion that the consumer’s perception of consumption and material culture is shaped by their surroundings. By presenting itself as a family friendly environment with spaces for both adults and children, Valley View is able to solidify itself as a type of community center in the same way a park or carnival might. Additionally, by providing a fun and novel way for children to pass time in a space that otherwise wouldn’t cater to them, malls effectively train children to positively associate with the consumer experiences perpetuated by these large shopping centers.

Ignoring the strategic and very deliberate creation of “amusement park”-style experiences for children, there are also ways in which individuals subvert the spaces within the mall to create their own entertainment. Elizabeth Chin’s book "Purchasing Power: Black Kids and American Consumer Culture" explores some of the ways children, namely Black adolescents from a low income working class neighborhood, find ways in which to entertain themselves without the means prescribed by the shopping center. The girls that Chin takes shopping find pleasure in trying on—but not buying—cheap accessories, flirting with boys, and riding the escalators. This commandeering of space for their own pleasure is demonstrative of how malls can be used for entertainment in ways not prescribed by those in power. In Valley View Mall, there are escalators, benches for socializing, and unique shops ranging from puppy stores to thinly veiled sex shops. While none of these features are inherently entertaining, their intended functionality can be easily subverted by young girls seeking new experiences. The novelty of moving stairs, people watching, and unfamiliar products can be and in many cases are as exciting as a 50-cent train ride or a buggy shaped like a car.

The argument can be made that malls exist only as utilitarian shopping solutions that offer a wide variety of goods in a relatively compact space. However, as evidenced by James Farrell and Elizabeth Chin in their respective books, as well as anyone who has ever spent time in a mall, people don’t necessarily go to malls and shopping centers to buy what they need and then leave. Rather, malls are a common space in which individuals and families feel free to gather, shop, work, and play.

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For this assignment I focused on the geography of the Valley View Mall.  Valley View Mall is built very similarly to the typical mall in America. The mall is in an oval shape surrounded by parking lots with anchor stores at each end. Along with the vast amount of parking, there is also a bus stop conveniently located at one of the entrances to the mall which makes it easier for those people who do not drive to get to and from the mall, though it is not in the best shape as you can see in the picture below. All of the stores are facing inwards towards each other rather than a typical outlet mall that has all of the stores outside that may require a car to go from store to store. At Valley View you can walk in one entrance, do an entire lap around the whole mall, and end up right where you first walked in.  The Valley View Mall sits on 800,000 square feet in the Roundhill neighborhood of Roanoke and is located right off of Interstate 581. The land that the Valley View Mall is currently located on used to be a farm that was owned by the Huff family until the early 1980s when the land was rezoned and the mall was built and then opened on July 17th, 1985.

In the book One Nation, Under Goods: Malls and the Seductions of American Shopping by James Farrell, he talks about the importance of malls, and not only for the social aspect but for the architectural aspect as well.  The structure of a mall makes all the difference in the experience of going “shopping.”  Farrell says “to be informed consumers, therefore, we need information not just about the products we buy but also about the spaces- architectural and social- where we buy them” (Farrell, pg XIV).  He goes on to explain, “Malls are America’s public architecture, a primary form of public space, the town halls of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries” (Farrell, pg XIV).  Valley View is a pretty good example of a mall as public architecture and as a public forum. It has several restaurants for people to gather at, play areas for the parents that bring their children with them, and across the street there is a 16-screen movie theater that is also a part of the total geography of Valley View.

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Malls represent the synthesis of consumer culture and cultural expectations, while also visualizing the ways in which we see our own culture. In regards to demographics and consumers as a whole, how the mall polices and caters to specific groups within our communities exhibits greater societal trends in American society.

The mall’s relationship with certain demographics includes the positioning and grouping of certain stores. While the design and visual aspects may be left up to the stores themselves, how the stores are positioned to bring in, as Elizabeth Chin states in her book Purchasing Power, “consumer channels,” is controlled by the malls themselves (Chin 4). In Valley View Mall, this strategic grouping can be seen in Aeropostale standing across the hall from American Eagle and Hollister. All of these stores produce generally the same style of simple and casual men’s and women’s clothing. Young men and women are the main demographic that shop at these stores, as seen in the brands’ models, and their proximity is a direct attempt to have that demographic stay within that part of the mall and shop there. Attempting to bring in specific demographics in Valley View also shows itself in the grouping of three jewelry stores: Pandora, Fink’s, and Henebry’s, essentially side by side to one another, all of which bring in men and women looking for engagement rings, among other pieces. This strategic grouping of stores exhibits how general American culture has intensified the segmentation between certain groups of people, and chosen to keep like-minded people in the same area.

Another way that malls and community demographics collide is in the policing of consumers. Valley View Mall’s Youth Escort Policy states, “unescorted youth shopping… must leave the property by 6 p.m. or be joined by a parent or guardian.” This rule for those eighteen and under seems strict, but when understood in the context of Roanoke’s community diversity, it reveals itself to be quite biased. According to DiversityData, African Americans and Hispanics made up 21.5% of the Roanoke metropolitan area’s population that was under the age of eighteen in 2012. With that context, we can see the bias against these demographics through mall security. As Chin states in her book, malls such as Valley View are attempting to “… limit or prevent young people’s presence… since they are perceived by some to threaten the… atmosphere” (Chin 107). Looking at it from a broader societal lens, these seemingly racially charged security measures indicate how, as Madison Van Oort explains in “Shut it Down!”, “…policing and consumer capitalism go hand in hand,” and demonstrate the connections between American society’s “… racial violence and contemporary capitalism.”

Ultimately, the grouping of stores and policing of consumers in malls display the broader issues of both indirect and direct division between demographics. The perpetuation of like-mindedness and highlighting the division of specific groups, while also placing unearned assumptions and abjections onto minorities, is not only a systemic problem within malls, but in American society as well.

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“Back of the house” is a term often used in retail for the offices and jobs that are behind the scenes, or invisible. When talking about individual stores, this is usually where a lot of the inventory and stock goes. When discussing this concept in One Nation Under Goods, author James Farrell says “Offices, lunch rooms, locker rooms, and rest rooms need to be conveniently located, and spaces for receiving, marking, and shipping merchandise need to be easily accessible” (Farrell, 70). The Management offices at the Valley View Mall are located on the second floor by one of their anchor stores, JC Penney. There are two separate entrances leading to the hallway where these offices are located. This hallway is not in plain sight and is quite desolate. However, you may stumble upon it if you are looking for the bathrooms, which are also located here, as well as a water fountain, a Coke machine, a heart defibrillator, and an elevator. There are signs hanging above both entrances to the hallway with arrows that read “mall office, restrooms, elevator.” Once inside this long, narrow hallway you’ll notice two more “mall office” and “security office” signs hanging above their respective doors. Both doors have glass windows so you can see inside, and buzzers on the outside that say “ring bell for service.” When looking inside the “mall office” door you’ll notice a couch and chairs, as well as a table with flowers and magazines on it. This made me think this area functioned as a waiting room, possibly used during job interviews. I couldn’t see much past this, but I believe that is where the management offices are located. The security office did not have a waiting room, but there were desks and chairs. Their job is to enforce the code of conduct and to make sure you have a safe and enjoyable shopping experience. I was surprised because it didn’t appear as if Valley View has an employee break room for all mall workers, at least not in this hallway. When it comes to mall employees, the way they speak, their attitude, and how they dress is very important. They are told to act and look professional, whether that means wearing a uniform or wearing clothing sold in the store. When this happens, Farrell says they essentially become “living mannequins” (Farrell, 65) He also goes on to say how “talking with an employee has a way of drawing a customer in closer” and that “any human contact increases the likelihood of sales” (Farrell, 65). This reminded me of the lady working at the Bath & Body Works at Valley View who was very friendly and outgoing, making the customer more likely to enter the store and purchase something. This is how employees and those working in the “back of the house” operate at a shopping mall.

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Material culture explains how commodities shape human thought and ideas, which follow culturally dictated plans (Carter xiii). What better way to discuss material culture than to talk about shopping malls! This essay will specifically be focusing on the architecture and design of Valley View Mall in Roanoke, Virginia.

In particular, the United States is overwhelmingly a materialistic culture. We pride ourselves in the things we buy. In a way, our stuff is a staple of our livelihood and a piece of our identity. Buildings, including malls, represent the thought process of human beings (Carter 15). Thus, material culture is deeply intertwined with shopping culture. For example, architects of Valley View Mall have built essentially a concrete rectangular prism. For the sole purpose to house and sell goods. People go to malls to shop, not to walk around or ponder how a mall’s design works with the décor. Even if you go to waste time, most likely you will purchase a commodity. It’s completely psychological, which is why stores pay special attention to mood and ambiance. But the mall itself is also enforcing certain moral ideas about individuals. I want to discover the relationship between architecture and design and how it influences us to hold certain values.

First, let’s describe a couple of definitions. Design and architecture share a unified relationship. On one hand, design is equivalent to a blueprint. Carter and Cromley describe design as “…planning the ability to transform ideas about beauty and function into tangible form” (13). Essentially the goal of design is to make a building aesthetically pleasing, yet functional (Carter 13). Likewise, according to the Oxford dictionary, architecture is the practice of designing and constructing buildings or the style of a building. As I’ve stated before the sole purpose of a shopping mall is to store and sell merchandise. Other than that the building has no other function.

Second, let’s discuss the idea behind the “town center,” then take a look at one example from Valley View Mall. What is the purpose of a “town center” and what décor does it contain? Immediately I think about clocks, greenery, and sitting arrangements. Overall, a place to mingle and engage in friendly conversations. Town centers inspire people to relax while shopping and dining. These spaces are often in harmony with each other.  As a result of this unified cohesion, squares use subliminal messaging to impose moral ideas about how a life should be governed, how should someone present themselves to others, what ideas determine family values, and/or how do families interact with each other.

Similarly, “…vernacular builders make design decisions about space, form, community values, and architectural meaning each time they build” (Carter 15). These ‘designs’ are often conservative and reflect the moral ideas of the time (Carter 15). For example, Valley View has a statue of a man tying his shoe. He has his shirt tucked in, along with a vest and tie, and dress shoes. Personally, this man looks like a typical 1950s father. He appears to be a part of the middle class, which may suggest he is Protestant and white. Why would Valley View put this piece of sculpture within the mall? I hypothesize the mall wants to instill how a person should dress, present themselves, and act. In a way the mall through its design is using subliminal messaging to enforce these values.

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When asked to choose an outfit that I have a relationship with, I decided on a collection of clothes that are a mix of comfortable, utilitarian, and purely embellishments. I identify and present as a woman, which is a huge factor in the way I analyze the following items. The outfit depicted above is pretty typical for me on any given day. In this analysis, I found that my shoes and accessories are the items that have the most layers to analyze.

I have had glasses since the fourth grade. At this point, ten years and five pairs of glasses later, I think of them as more of an extension of myself than a fashion statement. Thinking about my glasses in this way makes me realize why choosing new glasses is both the most difficult and most exciting shopping excursion I have experienced; I am choosing a new extension of myself, so they have to be nearly perfect. They change the way I see the world in the most literal sense, by transforming the blurry world around me into surroundings I can actually see. In this sense, my glasses are literally a reflexive object as Miller introduced in Chapter One of his book Stuff. Similar to the sari in Chapter One, they are an extension of my eyes in such a way that I could not go about my days without them.

The thing that is the most interesting to analyze is my new member pin for Delta Gamma. It is the small white and gold circle on my shirt with the letters Pi and Alpha. I am not required, but “strongly encouraged” to wear this pin. (Hazing reform within Greek organizations in the past several decades means that the full members may not require the new members to do anything). This pin transforms me; identifying me as a member of a Greek organization and transforming the way other people perceive me. Every day when I put the pin on, I am performing Delta Gamma in a similar way that the girls in Mendoza-Denton’s article “Muy Macha” were performing their brand of femininity. I have noticed a change in the past weeks. All full and new members of Delta Gamma say hello to me when they pass and other people in fraternities and sororities notice me far more than they did before I wore this pin. Those who are not involved with Greek life often do a double take because the “Pi Alpha” on the pin does not indicate Delta Gamma or any other specific organization, but few ask what it stands for. Through my changed social interactions, I realized that the Pi Alpha pin is a reflexive object. It changes the way others interact with and perceive me, and, therefore, the way I experience the world. When we received these pins, they were accompanied by a speech about how from that moment on Delta Gamma’s letters would be on our foreheads; everything we did, even as new members would be associated with our organization. At the time I understood the idea that I would be associated with the reputation of Delta Gamma, but I have found over the past weeks that my new association with Delta Gamma has also shaped the way people perceive me.

The shoes I am wearing are a little fuzzy in this image, but they are brown booties with zippers on both the left and right sides and a three-inch heel. I borrowed these shoes from a friend for an event because we collectively decided that these shoes made my legs look longer and they matched my outfit better than the black two-inch booties I was previously planning to wear.  The brown shoes make a delicious authoritative clicking noise when I walk and they make my legs appear longer and slimmer no matter what I am wearing. The only drawback is that the brown shoes hurt to wear. My feet ached the morning after I wore them, but I wear them anyway because, as Charlotte Perkins Gilman said in Why Women Do Not Reform Their Dress, the presence of pain in clothing makes women feel powerful.

The way I look at the clothing and accessories I choose to adorn myself with has definitely changed after the clothing focus in this class. I believe fashion is not only a personal choice, but also a reflection of your peers and a reflection of your means. The way I experience the world is absolutely shaped by my performance of my gender, activities, and social class through clothing.

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In Norma Mendoza-Denton’s study of Latina gang girls (cholas), she notes that their exaggerated and somewhat outrageous use of makeup is a rebellion against what society wants of them. Their use of bold eyeliner and bold lipstick is a subversion of the gendered expectations of the makeup industry – that they wear makeup to make themselves look better, but not so much that it looks unnatural.

I feel I am doing the same thing in this photo, but with a somewhat opposite method. Though the decision not to wear makeup was certainly somewhat due to laziness, it also was done to contrast what is expected of me daily. I intern in a courthouse – regardless of how much I want to subscribe to Dr. Tallie’s idea of weaponized fashion by going against society’s expectations, the strict professional standards of the legal field and of the court require me to do otherwise. Unfortunately, one of the typical unspoken expectations of the legal field is that women wear some (though minimal) makeup, or else they are considered to be lazy and unprofessional. Since I spend most days of the week there for at least a couple hours, I like to go partially against courthouse expectations on the other days.

This desire to eschew the gendered expectations of my chosen career field whenever possible also carries over into me wearing shoes that expose my foot tattoo (though the angle of this photo barely shows it, I promise it is there!). One of the most unprofessional things I could do as a lawyer in the future or as a legal intern now is to have visible tattoos. Though that tattoo’s placement limits me as far as what shoes I can wear in professional situations, it is one of my favorite fashion statements in my free time. Exposing my tattoo is, to me, a subversion of society’s expectations for women akin to the expectation that women save themselves for marriage– they are expected not to do anything that will alter the “purity” of their body and self.

Though the chambray shirt and black jeggings I am wearing are simple, that is one of my favorite things about this outfit. On a practical level, I am dressed simply to avoid some of the clothing-induced anxiety Daniel Miller discusses in his book Stuff. I am color-blind, which makes getting dressed in a socially acceptable way difficult since I can’t see exactly what colors my clothes are – this makes me anxious! Thus, much of my wardrobe is neutral or other muted colors – limiting my color palette increases the chance that I will not accidentally wear an outfit that goes against typical standards of what matches. Additionally, the simplicity of my clothes makes the outfit versatile. Though in this photo I am at Target getting a fan for my perpetually hot dorm room, I later was able to wear this outfit to a bar to watch the Super Bowl, and with different shoes it could be worn in slightly dressier situations as well.

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In this picture I am wearing a chevron vest, burgundy sweater, jeans, tall black boots, and a necklace. The look I have in the picture is comfort, yet I still look presentable. My choice in clothing is also geared for the colder months and the outfit is designed for warmth. Much of the clothing that I am wearing consists of dark colors. Since a lot of winter cloths are sold in darker options this should be no surprise. However there are other reasons that I chose this outfit.

One such reason has to do with my natural complexion. As I am naturally pale with light hair, darker colors, such as navy and burgundy, typically look best on me. Also due to my pale skin tone, I tend to enjoy the winter months when the sun is not so harsh. Overall I enjoy wearing warmer clothing over summer style clothes.

My necklace, though difficult to see, is a gold pendent that is shaped like an oboe with crystal keys. This necklace was a gift from a friend and is special to me. I play the oboe and this piece is my first piece of jewelry that represents the musician in me.

Much of my clothing is based on the common fashion fads that most see in public. This is similar to the fashion displayed in Trinidad as Daniel Miller says in his book Stuff. According to Miller, fashions vary depending on what region of the world you live in. He describes the styles in Trinidad to reflect individuality and that everyone’s clothing choices reflect one’s ‘self.’ For example, my clothing choices represent my personal preferences when it comes to weather, color scheme, and a representation of my self.

Miller also mentions several terms that apply to everything that we own, including clothing. Terms such as function, semiotics, and habitus all apply to the display of my sense of style. For example, everything I am wearing has a function. Most of my outfit’s function is to keep me warm and fashionable. Semiotics is the study of symbols and the biggest symbol in my outfit is my necklace as it symbolizes my participation in music and the instrument that I play. Lastly habitus is objects that ‘frame’ our cultures. For example, my entire outfit frames and tells the viewer the kind of culture that I live in.

As told by Karl Marx in Capital, almost everything one owns is some kind of commodity and all commodities have different kinds of values. The exchange value may change on items that are a part of my outfit depending on how personal and how special they are to me. Some things I may perceive to have no possible exchange value, however since they have gone through the production cycle everything I am wearing does have value on the commodity market.

Along with basic descriptions of my style choices, the views and terms used by Marx and Miller can also be used to analyze my personal being. Overall my style reflects who I am as well as follows the common fashion of the era.

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This photo represents a typical outfit I wear on most days. It looks pretty simple, and it is, but it’s meaningful to me in different ways. My sweatshirt collection is something I value greatly. They are the easiest thing to throw on in the morning when you’re in a rush or just lounging around the house, perfect for all situations. The one pictured here is my Roanoke lacrosse sweatshirt. This sweatshirt is important to me because the Roanoke women’s lacrosse team is a huge part of who I am. I have been a member of the team since my freshman year and it takes up a large part of my life. Wearing this sweatshirt around campus makes me feel involved in the school. People who look automatically can know details about who I am and what I like to do. Underneath the sweatshirt I typically wear a plain t-shirt. The t-shirts I wear normally represent something in my life as well. Either a place if visited, a school I’ve attended, a sports team I like, or of my sisterhood. Both the t-shirt and sweatshirts I wear very simply represent a lot about my life and my past. I like dressing comfortably but also I like my clothing to represent my interests and passions, but not in an obvious way. On my bottom I wear plain black leggings. These leggings don’t have much meaning except I wear them for comfort. On my feet, here I am wearing running shoes. These shoes have been with me a couple years now, I like them because they match everything and are comfortable. If I am not wearing sneakers I am wearing my Uggs or slippers, because again, I base my outfits around comfort. I always dress in athletic outfits because it allows me to wear one outfit all day for classes then practice. My outfits allow people to know I am a student athlete here are at Roanoke College which means I am extremely busy and always on the go. My outfit allows me to be comfortable all day long and get from one place to the next without the hassle of having to change clothing. With my outfit I wear little to no jewelry besides earrings. I wear pearls in the front and diamonds behind the pearls. The diamonds are important to me because they were my great aunts. I wear these earrings because they go with my outfits, they are simple, not flashy, and plain. I wear my hair in a ponytail every day because I don’t like my hair hanging in my face. I love the simplicity of my outfits because I can wake up in the mornings and not have to figure out a complex outfit. My outfit represents who I am, a calm, relaxed, laid back person and I like people being able to know a little something about me just by first appearance.

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In this outfit Gabby sports a long maroon faux hair cardigan. Under the cardigan is a mauve long sleeve cotton t shirt with a crisscross front.  Black MC Hammer pants (MC Hammer Pants) that have a white triangle print are accompanied by black ankle length combat boots. These boots have seen their wear and tear and are currently decorated with some mud. Medium length wavy brown hair has been parted to one side. Rectangular black glasses are an accessory purely of function. Two quartz crystal necklaces hang around her neck, along with her maroon card and keys worn as a bracelet. Her look is finished with a natural makeup look that adds pink accents to her cheeks and lips. The first pose is a classic, leaning against a window. The second picture she is posed as one of Charlie’s Angels (Charlie's Angels Movie 2000), and the third pose is a silly face with a peace sign because sometimes you have to have fun while doing your homework assignments.

The fuzzy cardigan is an essential piece in my wardrobe. The texture and warmth the cardigan provides makes me feel safe and at home when I wear it. Usually when I’m having a down kind of day I choose to put this cardigan over any outfit. The mauve crisscross shirt is nothing particularly special aside from the fact that it is soft and one of my favorite colors to wear. My MC Hammer pants are one of the best pairs of pants I own. They let me sit in any position and stay comfortable, they’re loose so I can wear them as pajama pants as well. I bought them on sale too, which makes them even better.  My combat boots are by far my number one go to shoe for any outfit. I don’t know how I would get anywhere without them. They are fashionable but for the most part they are practical and useful for most any type of occasion. Whether it be rain, snow, mud, or sunshine, these are always the boots I want to wear. Even if they don’t always look like the most appropriate option for footwear, I wear them with pride, because they make me feel great about myself and I feel like I can accomplish anything in them. It will be a very, very dark day when I have to retire these comfy boots. My quartz necklaces are a staple in every outfit I wear. Whether it be a fancy outfit, or just watching TV all day, I’m rarely seem without a crystal necklace on. These also make me feel at home, and I feel more spiritually centered when I wear one. As for my hair, I usually just roll out of bed and comb it so it is not one huge knot. I don’t enjoy taking the time out to do my hair, so the carefree look is usually what I go for. My makeup in these pictures is what I usually do on a normal basis. I don’t like wearing eye makeup so I usually skip that step unless I’m going out. So the usual look is a layer of foundation, and a blush that matches my lipstick. These are my two favorite cosmetics to apply because they’re so simple and yet, can do so much. The most essential part of my outfit is definitely my keys. My stretchy bracelet carries three sets of keys, and my maroon card. I don’t go anywhere without this, no matter what. It goes with every outfit because it has to. Without this bracelet I wouldn’t be able to do much. It holds the key to my room, the key to my sculpture classroom and the key to the IT office that I work at. I feel very responsible for these keys and if I ever leave the dorm with one thing it will certainly be them.

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I first became aware of my femininity as an early teenager and subsequently spent years trying to decide how I wanted to present myself to a society that demanded I “be myself,” but only within certain parameters. The outfit in my selfie sometimes follows the societal expectations of femininity, sometimes it deviates from them, but it is in this outfit that I feel my most feminine and subsequently my most powerful.

The actual clothing I am wearing is, in the most basic terms, jeans and a t-shirt. The jeans are technically several sizes too big, a pair I took from a bin about to be taken to Goodwill. They used to belong to my father and they sport a broken belt loop, a tear in the inner thigh, and a worn patch on the back pocket where he kept his billfold. For me, much of the appeal of these jeans comes from their utility. Men’s pants are notoriously better constructed, more comfortable, and have deeper pockets than women’s pants and these jeans reflect all of those expectations. So not only do I find the fit flattering and stylish on my body, the utility is reminiscent of the dual roles of a sari discussed by Daniel Miller in his book “Stuff”. The Indian sari is an item of clothing that possesses obvious aesthetic value, but also allows women to move about their daily life with a certain degree of freedom because it serves utilitarian purposes as well.

My makeup and earrings are the most conventionally feminine aspect of this ensemble. Red lipstick has become a symbol of autonomy for me and reflects every aspect of femininity from the sex symbols of the 1950s to the toughness of the Cholas discussed in Norma Mendoza-Denton’s writings. Additionally, red lipstick is an example of an item or product being “reflexive.” This term is explored once again by Daniel Miller in “Stuff” and describes an item, in this instance red lipstick, that not only is shaped by the user, but shapes the user in return. In the case of my lipstick, I determine when and how I want to wear it, giving myself control over how I am perceived. However, when I do decide to wear red lipstick, I am allowing the expectations and connotations that come with it to follow me as I move through the world. Some of these, like the sense of power and the aesthetic value are positive, but some, the hypersexualized imagery, and the cultural disdain for the “frivolity” of makeup, make it more difficult.

The femininity I try to emulate when I dress and in my photo is a femininity that is highlighted when a person can move through their world with ease and have the autonomy to decide for themselves what truly makes them feel feminine.

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For this fashion blog, it was a little hard to combine all the articles of clothing I have that really mean a lot to me while still making them all combine to look presentable. As I was going through my clothes I just kept thinking, “Oh, well this is just another t-shirt this doesn’t really have any meaning besides it being something that I have to wear”. But then I started to think a little harder about what articles of clothing I have that I really do have a strong relationship with and the whole assignment became a lot easier for me to do.

I guess the best place to start would be from the top down. On my head I am wearing a New York Rangers beanie that I got for Christmas from my girlfriend. I am a die-hard Rangers fan and try to go to a game every single chance I possibly can, these efforts even brought me to Montreal the weekend before this semester started. My dad is the reason that I am such a big Rangers fan because that was his favorite team and he started bringing me to games as soon as I was old enough. I think the first game I went to was at two years old at Madison Square Garden and now any time I step foot in The Garden it reminds me of my dad and all the good times we used to have there. Furthermore, this hat has a lot of meaning to me because my girlfriend gave it to me so when I wear it I think of her as well.

Next would be the t-shirt from my fraternity and the sweatshirt I am wearing over it. As you could imagine I have a strong relationship with everyone in my fraternity and when I wear this shirt it reminds me of everything I accomplished to get into this fraternity and the bond I have built with all of the other members. They are all my best friends and brothers so when I wear this shirt it just reminds me of all of them and everything we have been through together. Over the shirt I am wearing my Roanoke College hockey sweatshirt. I love hockey and was so happy when I heard that a club hockey team was being started here at the college because I finally had the chance to play college hockey, something I never imagined would be possible from going to a southern school so this sweatshirt means a lot to me as well.

Next would be my pants and my shoes. I am wearing my favorite khakis that are lined with flannel on the inside. To me personally these are the best pants in the world; they are almost as comfortable as sweatpants while still giving the appearance of nice pants that you can wear to go out in. On my feet I have a pair of air Jordan 6’s. I have stopped my collection recently but I used to be very into sneakers and collecting old Jordans such as these and several others so these shoes have a lot of meaning to me as well as a lot of value because they are old shoes that I have kept in good condition.