In which is contained the documentation of recreating the wardrobe of an early 19th century gentleman Project by thiefbird.tumblr.com
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SELECTED PUBLIC DOMAIN HORROR & GOTHIC FICTION ONLINE IN ENGLISH
Short Stories
Benson, E. F. | sentimentality, spiritualism, satire
The Room in the Tower (1912)
Visible and Invisible (1923)
Spook Stories (1928)
More Spook Stories (1934)
"How Fear Departed the Long Gallery"
Hodgson, William Hope | occult detective, electric pentacle, fav
Carnacki, the Ghost-Finder (1913)
Ingulphus (AKA Arthur Gray) | Jesus College, Cambridge
Tedious Brief Tales of Granta and Gramarye (1919)
James, M. R. | scholarly, unsettling
Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1904)
More Ghost Stories of an Antiquary (1911) - this has "Mr Humphreys and His Inheritance," which is one of my favorite ghost stories I've ever read, please read it if you like labyrinths
A Thin Ghost and Others (1919)
A Warning to the Curious (1925)
Lee, Vernon (AKA Violet Paget) | tormented artists, Italy, fav
Hauntings (1890)
Swain, E. G. | sweet and mild, East Anglia, i would go on a date with you mr. batchel
The Stoneground Ghost Tales (1912)
Novels
Maturin, C. R. | dissolute traded his soul for 150 extra years of life and wanders tempting the desperate to take over his bargain
Melmoth the Wanderer - Volume 1, Volume 2, Volume 3, Volume 4, ebook version (1820)
Radcliffe, Ann | best to ever do it, no supernatural explanation
A Sicilian Romance, ebook version (1790) -- good intro novel
The Romance of the Forest (1791)
The Mysteries of Udolpho, ebook version (1794)
The Italian (1797) -- the one with Father Schedoni
Reynolds, George W. M. | penny dreadfuls, I just started reading, female villain
Wagner the Werewolf (1846-1847)
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The waistcoat (and a cravat!) are finished! I will have a detailed write up at some point, with photos! But until then, please enjoy
#historical tailoring#19th century fashion#regency fashion#historical fashion#project regency gentleman
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Things I wish I had read in "beginner" sewing tutorials/people had told me before I started getting into sewing
You have to hem *everything* eventually. Hemming isn't optional. (If you don't hem your cloth, it will start to fray. There are exceptions to this, like felt, but most cloth will.)
The type of cloth you choose for your project matters very much. Your clothing won't "fall right" if it's not the kind of stretchy/heavy/stiff as the one the tutorial assumes you will use.
Some types of cloth are very chill about fraying, some are very much not. Linen doesn't really give a fuck as long as you don't, like, throw it into the washing machine unhemmed (see below), whereas brocade yearns for entropy so, so much.
On that note: if you get new cloth: 1. hem its borders (or use a ripple stitch) 2. throw it in the washing machine on the setting that you plan to wash it going forward 3. iron it. You'll regret it, if you don't do it. If you don't hem, it'll thread. If you don't wash beforehand, the finished piece might warp in the first wash. If you don't iron it, it won't be nice and flat and all of your measuring and sewing will be off.
Sewing's first virtue is diligence, followed closely by patience. Measure three times before cutting. Check the symmetry every once in a while. If you can't concentrate anymore, stop. Yes, even if you're almost done.
The order in which you sew your garment's parts matters very much. Stick to the plan, but think ahead.
You'll probably be fine if you sew something on wrong - you can undo it with a seam ripper (get a seam ripper, they're cheap!)
You can use chalk to draw and write on the cloth.
Pick something made out of rectangles for your first project.
I recommend making something out of linen as a beginner project. It's nearly indestructible, barely threads and folds very neatly.
Collars are going to suck.
The sewing machine can't hurt you (probably). There is a guard for a reason and while the needle is very scary at first, if you do it right, your hands will be away from it at least 5 cm at any given time. Also the spoils of learning machine sewing are not to be underestimated. You will be SO fast.
I believe that's all - feel free to add unto it.
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after eight years, I finally updated my huge Historical Fashion Reference & Resources Doc! Now in the form of a MUCH more easily updated Google Doc with better organization, refreshed links, and five more pages of books and online resources.
I know tumblr hates links, but it’s worth it for a doc that I can now update with far more regularity going forward! RIP to the original, you did your duty for far longer than you should have. 😔🙏🏼
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Names of shades and when in Regency England they were most popular.
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Absolutely love this Twitter thread from The Menswear guy. Love it so much I have to post it here.
First of all, if you're going to accuse The Menswear Guy of snark based on moral judgement, it's worth noting that the Duke of Windsor was an unequivocally AWFUL person. He struck a deal with Hitler to let Germany conquer Britain so he could be king again. But he was one dapper motherfucker.
A lot of times, I ask myself a lot why it is someone like Ben Shapiro would come begging to you for fashion advice like there's some x+y=z secret code to being fashionable. (Yes, The Menswear Guy has shown screenshots of Ben Shapiro's assistant asking him for fashion advice.)
When the fact is there is no real formula to being fashionable, you have to express yourself and take genuine pleasure in what you're wearing. Ben Shapiro has never felt pleasure in his life without hating himself afterwards.
When you treat fashion as a status symbol and not something you love and find joy in, you will never be a fashionable person, which is something that respectability and conformity-minded conservatives will NEVER understand.
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his sleeves are wrong ? in what way ? :o
they should be puffier!
for one, he is very clearly wearing clothes based on 19th century cuts and styles, which had much wider cut sleeves in general than modern fits:
(sneaky self promotion: if you're interested in amateur historical fashion these pics are me and have a link to my blog about it!)
these are examples of pre-Victorian cuts, from the mid-late 1700s through about 1830. here's an example of a later victorian style:
you can see the sleeves are a little less Billowy than they are in the Georgian cut, but they're still pretty loose! whereas Emmrich's are very tight (as an animator i'm guessing this is in part bc Big Poofy Sleeves are hard to animate! they need Physics!)
my second reason for saying they're Wrong is the fact that he's wearing sleeve garters (the straps on his upper arms). i wear sleeve garters(which are actually in my case just scrunchies i bought at dollar tree hashtag broke bitch) at work when i wear historical fashion, because i work both with things like polish that can stain my beautiful white shirt, and very fast dangerous buffing wheels that could catch the sleeves.
you don't need sleeve garters with modern sleeves, because they're tight fitting and not overly long the way looser billowy sleeves are. sleeve garters keep your sleeves out of the way when you're doing something messy, or when they would hamper fine movement (so it makes sense why Emmrich would want them! necromancy can get messy) but his sleeves aren't going to get in the way because they fit too snugly!
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It's insane that pants were named after a fictional character who wore pants
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I will have a write up of my first waistcoat done in the next week or two! The waistcoat itself is a little over halfway finished: the outer shell and the lining are assembled (mostly; the lining collar is only basted in so I can make the seams line up perfectly), they just need to be attached!
Once it's turned right side out but while it's still partially open, I'll be doing working pick stitching around the pockets and collar, properly fixing the collar lining into the waistcoat, putting on the pocket flaps, and adding the ties to the back; then just quickly seam the remaining openings and add buttons/buttonholes and we'll be finished
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Nothing more frustrating than taping together tiled pattern pieces. Nothing more soothing than watching late Georgian/period pieces. I am vacillating WILDLY between extremes rn
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New shirt finished! Having finally solved many perplexing issues, I will be doing a full write-up of the shirts(including details on what should NOT be changed) with the next batch I make!
Detail of the buttons: they're hand faced with some scraps of floral calicos I had lying around, so I don't scratch the delicate finishes of the instruments I work with!
Next weekend I'll be starting on the first of the waistcoats, most likely - using one of the Laughing Moon Merchandise patterns (view D, with the scalloped pockets, because that's what Jack Aubrey is wearing in Master and Commander: The Far Side of the World and I like silly frills like that), in either a floral calico or a black one with green and gold dragonflies! (Probably I should make a muslin first but I am Lazy)
#project regency gentleman#19th century fashion#regency fashion#historical fashion#early 19th century#historical reenactment#historical costuming#historical tailoring
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i know we joke about cis artists having the weirdest sense of anatomy, but also even when the anatomy is fine, no one seems to want to draw women doing normal things
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fast rendering tutorial for when you dont want to put in any effort
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I know I promised a Shirt Write-up soon but unfortunately I have run into a problem known as Sucking At Modifying Patterns. In good news this means I can tell you what not to do and better understand how the pattern works! In bad news I have to take apart a bunch of bits of the second round of shirt making
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