philmillichap

[philmillichap]

The Walk - the Statistics

Total distance walked 460km (the guidebook had quoted 440km). So an average of 24km+ per day. In imperial terms just short of 290 miles at over 15miles per day.

16,000m climb (the guidebook had quoted 18,000m) so Snowdon 22 times in 19 days with an average climb of 842m per day.

Not sure where I lost the 2000m quoted in the guidebook may well be measurement error on my Garmin or the guidebook inflating? The extra distance is more easily understand with some route finding errors and also campsites or wild camping spots off route BUT there was also an inevitability of additional climb to reach these spots.

The longest distance in a day 31km Lee to Braunton (over 19 miles). The most climb was 1530m from Widemouth Bay to past Boscastle and just short Tintagel.

Carrying the extra gear which ended up 12kg+ with water was rewarded with accommodation fully booked in almost all locations (unless booked well in advance) and it gave significant additional flexibility to vary our day depending on weather, terrain and my legs! No campsite is ever going to turn away a single person plus bear hiking the coast path for charity.

For some legs camp sites are several km off route which made wild camping a really convenient option and these days tended to be longer with need to set up late and pack up early. This was particular useful between Westwood Ho! and Bude via Hartland Quay. However it is not recommended beyond two to three strsight days!

[philmillichap]

[philmillichap]

Day 19 Final Day

Porthcurno to Penzance via Lamorna Cove, Mousehole and Newlyn. The forecast had been for heavy rain pretty much all day so togged up in waterproofs we set out - while we had some rain spitting no downpour occurred BUT the waterproofs provided valuable protection on some of the very narrow bramble, gorse and nettle lined sections!

Cribba Head was soon rounded and Penberth Cove reached with its large paved area for landing fish and positive messages!

We passed through some woodland for the first time in ages might even have been Exmoor before crossing a bouldery beach.

Some overgrown rough and undulating walking led to the light-house at Tater-du.

We did stop for coffee and cake in Lamorna Cove.

More rocky woodland walking followed before some easier walking into Mousehole. Not much fishing left replaced with arts and crafts... and of course tourism!

In contrast Newlyn remains a major fishing port only Plymouth and Brixham land more fish in England.

The walking was now flat and pavement based with lots of interesting memorials including Penlee lifeboat station - 8 crew members lost in 1981. We soon reached Jubilee Pool and then Penzance Harbour and the end of our adventure.

Another 20km with 620m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 18

St Just to Porthcurno via Cape Cornwall, Sennen Cove and Land's End. Was really nice to spend large sections of today on exposed cliff edges on the way to Sennen Cove and also after Land's End.

Looking back to Cape Cornwall, until the first Ordinance Survey it was believed to be the most westerly point in Cornwall. Heinz donated to the nation!

There was some lovely exposed cliff walking before reaching Whitesand Bay. As you can see the weather was again glorious.

Sennen Cove was lovely in the sunshine and it was nice to see the small fishing boats providing a real splash of colour.

Land's End wasn't too busy and any crowds melted away by the time we passed the visitor farm at Carn Greeb. All of them missing out on some attractive cliffs and stacks including the arch of the Armed Knight shown below.

We marched on enjoying the fantastic sunshine and cliff edges to reach Mill Bay. The path tightly follows the cliff edge on the left of shot below.

We soon reached Gwennap Head with its Coastguard Station.

Porthgwarra had a fisherman packing away for the day.

The sun was setting as we passed the Minack Theatre (unfortunately no good views) and reached Porthcurno Beach.

19km and just over 600m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 17

Zennor to St Just via Pendeen Watch. The weather was excellent making this one of the most spectacular parts of the South West Coast Path - tough underfoot conditions until Portheras Cove are more than rewarded by the views.

This is not a leg that can be rushed forget the distances the views and underfoot conditions make for a long day. The are no services on route but plenty of lovely viewing points to sit and eat whatever you have carried with you.

Sat for a snack looking back to Gurnard’s Head - the seas and sea foam were impressive all day.

Portheras Cove with Pendeen Watch in the background.

As soon as we passed Pendeen Watch we entered a darker post industrial landscape.

After several tin mines we finished our day in St Just.

A most enjoyable 19km and 700m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 16

The estuary at Hayle provided our starting point with a relatively flat walk through Carbis Bay into St Ives. The second leg to Zennor contrasted with some of the most difficult underfoot conditions on this whole adventure - mixture of pain and beauty.

The walk into St Ives was far more attractive and interesting than expected with the bay bathed in bright sunshine.

Was nice to see the G7 site we didn't stop for a coffee looked bit posh and walked onto St Ives - a complete joy apart from all the people - who are all these people with the schools back?

Leaving St Ives within a few hundred metres the crowds had disappeared, almost no one seemed to be heading to Zennor.

The path started fine but soon became rough with large boulders and was easily the most roughest part of the path seen to date.

The sea colours with the brught sunshine were fantastic.

After a contrasting 20km with 700m of climb The Tinners Arms provided superb refreshments!

[philmillichap]

Day 15

Porthtowen to Hayle. A longer day than planned but influenced by tides.

Leaving Porthtowen we passed another extensive MOD property on Nancekuke Common, the sea was full of rugged stacks.

We soon reached the compact little harbour at Portreath an excellent bakery provided bacon roll and coffee for £3 hardly Padstow prices! The solid stonework of the little harbour contrasts markedly with the modern sprawl of the village. Trade centred around exports of copper and imports of coal, although fishing was also important.

The scenery along the cliffs is remarkable after Portreath especially around Ralph’s Cupboard shown below.

We passed Deadman’s Cove and walked onto Hell’s Mouth with cafe and Smaritans signs.

We soon had good views of Godrevy Island and its lighthouse.

The National Trust Cafe at Godrevy was packed with long queues so we gave it a miss and stopped at the Rock pool, wow, how we were rewarded with a fantastic red lentil and sweet potato dahl.

3 mile sands long walk before climb up to the path and into Hayle.

27km+ with 650m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 14

We started in Crantock just outside Newquay. First time we had completely packed up everything inside the outer of my tent including taking down and packing away the inner and the groundsheet - felt like a significant achievement! Meant we could have an early start carrying our soaked outer tent. What a days walking, huge variety of landscape one of the most enjoyable days so far.

We crossed grassy Kelsey Head and walked gently downhill towards and into a heap of sand dunes leading around Holywell Beach.

The broad and sandy Perran Beach were risked and we did find a way up at the end of an almost completely deserted beach - we wanted to avoid more dunes after Holywell!

Perranporth was successfully reached we stopped at No.4 Breakfast & Bistro they had closed for breakfast and lunch was 40mins away but made me a sausage sandwich which was really nice act of kindness, seen so many harassed staff last few weeks it was really welcome pleasant surprise 😲 😍. Then didn't charge the unwashed look has its benefits!

Beyond Perranporth rugged cliffs cliffs with often narrow, stony paths with some short, steep ascents and descents. A network of paths and tracks linked old mines around St Agnes and Porthtowan and provided some really fine not overly difficult walking. The centre of the picture below has a capped mine shaft.

Bleak, rugged cliffs, spoli heaps, levels and narrow cliff paths. Old mine shafts, engine houses and chimneys dominated the scene, the area around St Agnes was once dominated by the mining industry. The walking was dramatic and the colours fantastic.

We passed the Blue Hills Tin Streams and then ended our day in torrential rain in the Unicorn, Porthtowen for a very pleasant dinner with fellow Rotarian Philip Bearne.

28km 900m climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 13

Bedruthan Steps the beach is studded with highly individual rock stacks, was such a shame beach access is closed currently due to collapsing cliffs.

We walked through the village of Trenance then crossed a bridge over the River Menalhyl to reach Mawgan Porth which provided a coffee stop.

We reached the modern development at Watergate Bay, it was the first time I have seen the full extent of the beach in its full splendor despite several previous visits.

Newquay is huge almost 7km to walk right across it! Newquay in bright sunshine copes with so many people so much more proficiently than poor overrun Port Isaac and Padstow. There are variety of high class beaches and like Torbay it very obvious why this area has been so heavyly developed.

It was nice to leave behind the urban sprawl and end the day back in the lovely Cornish Countryside - suddenly all was right with the world again.

24km 700m climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 12

Padstow little less busy and it's clear for the average cafe / diner business comes too easily, feels a little like customer's are something to be endured - like long distances walks 😂.

It was the first day with any real wind and this sailor in the estuary seemed to be enjoying.

We passed below a coastguard lookout on Stepper Point, then climbed to a daymark tower that looks like a chimney.

Trevone Bay was a coffee stop with piped 70's disco music 🎶. Fortunately the coffee was luke warm so we could leave quickly.

We passed a very pretty lifeboat station on stilts and then the lighthouse on Trevose Head. Lovely sandy bays came and went before Treyarnon Bay were we stopped for a coffee and snack.

Porthcothan Bay was soon reached and just beyond we found a warm welcome and supper of hand picked muscles with Denzil and his carers the Newcombe family - Denzil liked the bear 🐻.

25km 640m climb

[philmillichap]

My Dad used to walk from between Brecon and Builth Wells to close to Port Talbot in South Wales to collect sheep and then drive them back over the Brecon Beacons home - round trip of 80 miles+

[philmillichap]

Day 11

Wow seems strange that we are up to Day 11 already. Port Isaac via Port Quin and Polzeith to Padstow was todays mission.

The best and hardest bits came early with a fine path to Port Quin along a splendidly rugged coastline. The clouds were dark and threatening creating a real atmosphere - note the little fish boat in the above picture he followed us all the way up the coast.

It did start spitting but came to nothing and things started to brighten up.

It was a lovely walk to Port Quin the little settlement was formerly a fishing harbour and is now simply an attractive huddle of buildings with no services apart from a cold water tap for through hikers.

Most people seemed happy to do to Port Isaac to Port Quin or Port Quin to Rock / Padstow. This was easily the busiest we had seen a section of the path despite the unpromising weather forecast.

We had stopped a couple of times and just sat watching, what I think was a Kestral hunting - seemed like a lot of hard work with little reward but was incredible to watch.

Padstow was reached via the ferry it was heaving - we found a lovely campsite right on the estuary.

Another day done 22km+ with around 750m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 10

After a disturbed night sleep with 45 mph winds the bear refused to cook our normal porridge so we can ended up with the above which was frankly better than another Cornish Pastie which was the alternative choice - 8 pasties in 10 days is heavy going.

First sight of note was the Rocky Valley as opposed to the Valley of the Rocks - it was aptly named - nomenclature system in Cornwall seems far more straight forward than Devon?

We ploughed on towards Tintagel when it started to spit - reminded me of Peter Kay.

King Arthur Mount looked like a lot of other headlands we have seen but it has been significantly better marketed. We marched past the great mass of washed waiting for entry and ploughed on in what was now torrential rain. The bear and I soon joined the heavily washed.

Gull Rock is a prominent feature out to sea, while passing the quarried slopes at Lanterdan, we came across this prominent pinnacle of rock. (Slate quarrying has a 500-year history at 10 locations nearby; even the rough spoil has been used to construct zigzag ‘curzyway’ hedge-banks - see an example of a stile from a few days ago).

We found a port in the storm as the Coast Path dropped down to Trebarwith Strand, we climbed up the path into the pub, The Port William and out of the rain!

Quite a few ups and downs followed but we eventually trekked into Port Gaverne.

As we climbed the hill into Port Isaac we could see back to Tintagel and our journey for the day.

19km and 900m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 9

The Coast Path started gently from Widemouth Bay, then became progressively more difficult, with several short, steep ascents and descents on the way to Crackington Haven, followed by some rugged, remote paths on the way to Boscastle.

Few climbs including Dizzard through an oak wood where water bottles were refilled.

Cleave was a lovely bushy ridge and then lunch in Crackington Haven. Post lunch the views and the climbing were dominated by the aptly named High Cliff which reaches 223m.

We even got to see some goats and several Tortoiseshell Butterflies.

Bowcastle provided an ice-cream stop before a further 4km allowed us to pitch camp for the night after a very long but rewarding day.

28km with 1530m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 8

Sunrise and sea-mist, everything absolutely soaked so third time packing away wet gear.

This is GCHQ Bude – a government listening station. It’s estimated that 25 per cent of internet traffic passes through here!

The path had been brutal but became significantly easier from Sandy Mouth onwards.

Bude salt-water swimming pool provided some much needed relief from the heat with a borrowed pair of FC Barcelona shorts out of the lost and found 😂. Wroes an enchanting local department store in the 'Are you being served' tradition provided coffee and cake - it was an absolute delight. Mountain Warehouse kindly gave me scouts discount on a pair of trunks of my own, flip-flops and more freeze-dried meals!

The bear was restless so we continued on to Widemouth Bay and we used a campsite for the first time in a few days - some washing all round was needed.

21km with 900m of climb today most of the climb in the first 10km.

[philmillichap]

Day 7

Lovely sunrose through the mist, a miscalculation had meant I had camped right on the Coast Path so I made sure I had packed up and was moving just gone 7am. I was immediately rewarded with two seperate sightings of deer. So many butterflies and I haven't seen as many Red Admirals since I was a child. A breakfast stop was made just short of Hartland Point and the turn to the south.

Wot no lighthouse for Kerry!

The wooded slopes and valleys gave way to rugged, barren cliffs and headlands. The Hartland Quay Hotel Wreckers Bar provided a hearty lunch.

The landscape became even more dramatic south of Hartland Quay.

We entered Cornwall and strode on looking for a wild-camping spot.

What a spot we found right on the cliff edge as the sea most rolled in and the sun set.

Just over 24km today with just under a 1000m of climb.

[philmillichap]

Day 6

The road ahead on through Clovelly and towards Hartland Point which has dominated the horizon since rounding Morte Point.

The first section was a lovely roller coaster of gentle inclines and declines next to pebble beaches.

This was followed by brutal ascents and descents in a wooded section which only really changed once past Buck's Mills and onto Hobby Drive which has lovely views of Clovelly.

Beyond Clovelly the coast was a delighted despite being constantly surrounded by stupid pheasants - not sure shooting them can really count as sport. The highlight was definately Mouthmill Beach and the Blackchurch Rock. We sat man and bear dangling our feet in the cooling salt water hoping it would help the blisters while loving the views.

We finally called the end to a wonderful day after 25km and 1150m of climb at Windbury Fort.