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“Never measure the height of a mountain until you have reached the top. Then you will see how low it was”.
(Dag Hammarskjold)
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So, after the morning chores were completed, we had breakfast and tea and started preparing for the trek ahead. There was lot of excitement as it was everybody’s dream to climb mount Kalsubai, the highest peak of Maharashtra and the dream was about to come true. Around 8:30 we started our trek. Going through the village, we crossed a small water stream and reached the base of the jungle. One can easily identify the trek trails through the jungle. It was not raining but the clouds above and the beautiful rainy atmosphere gave us tremendous boost to move forward energetically. After climbing around 15 minutes, we had our first stop at the big kalsubai temple. This temple is built for the people who cannot make it to the top to take blessing of the original temple of kalsubai. So, they take the blessing from this temple and return.
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After half-an-hour we reached a plateau and that was also our first resting point. From there the view of surrounding mountain ranges, covered with clouds, was just awesome. From here one can see the ladders that are built on the rock patches to make the trek bit easy. Gradually and steadily we kept on climbing in the mud trail and jungle surrounding us. The showers in between were making our climb more joyful. Although it was monsoon, the humidity was a bit more and it was exhausting us quickly leading to consumption of water continuously. Water being the most important of the things a trekker carries in his back pack during summit, needs to be consumed judiciously as in almost all treks in Sahyadris, there are few potable water bodies. The climb was not tough. It was a bit steep but not difficult. But the walk was never ending. The showers in between the trek were adding up to refresh our mind and forget the lengthy trek ahead. The surrounding atmosphere was filled with amazing views of green nature and grey clouds. We were just travelling through the clouds now.
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After climbing for more than an hour, we came across first iron ladder. Iron ladders are fixed by the Government to climb the difficult rock patches at some places. Some hardcore trekker still avoids the iron ladders and climbs the rock patches for additional thrill. Again, we start ascending towards our summit using the ladders and negotiating a few rock patches. From here the trek is bit hard. After a 30-minute climb, we again halted at a point. At this moment, we are completely inside the cloud and the visibility was hardly few meters. Our trek leaders were constantly counting the group members just to make sure that everybody is trekking together. It is certainly difficult and challenging to lead a big group and take everybody together to achieve the summit. The cloudy atmosphere and the visibility of few meters was adding to this challenge. But the hard-core experience of our trek leader was coming to help and we were maintaining a constant speed. After trekking for more than 2.30 hours, we came across a well full of cold water just before the striking distance of summit. We had a rest of around 5-10 minutes and washed our faces with the cold water. It was an uplifting and refreshing experience. On this spot, a vendor was busy preparing fresh Kanda Bhaji and Tea for serving the tired souls. At this point of summit, it was the right time and spot for some munching as the breakfast was already consumed trekking this much distance. Some of us had some kanda bhaji and tea from this vendor. Savoring hot plate of Kanda Bhaji (Onion Pakoda) and a cup of tea in such a beautiful atmosphere was certainly a delightful experience in itself. One should never miss such an experience even though the aftereffects of oily onion pakodas are known. Sometimes you need to compromise on certain things to relish the pleasure in life.
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After trekking through few rock patches and ladders we reached the final ladder to the pinnacle. A few ladders on the way were fiercely 80 degree vertical, and it was a testing time for some of our trekkers. The fear of monkeys while climbing the ladders was also adding up to the excitement. Finally, we reached the peak and we were up above the cloud now. Topmost point of Maharashtra! A staggering 5,400 Ft above M.S.L. We were exhausted but when we looked around, all the tiredness went away in a flash. The clouds were everywhere on the mountain ranges and a sense of being on the Everest of Maharashtra was progressing fast. Unbelievable!!!
There is a small temple of Kalsubai on the top. Pinnacle top is mostly covered with rock patches where you can sit down and enjoy the nature and clouds down below. And we did the same things. Just sat down quite, closed our eyes and got lost.
It was just mesmerizing to view the surrounding from the top. On the west side, there were beautiful peaks of Alang, Madan, Kulang. On the east side, there is Bittangad, Patta fort and Aundha. On the south side, you can see Harishchandra Gad, Ratan Gad, Ajoba, Kumabai’s Khind. Also, the view of vast backwaters of Bhandardara Dam was quite enchanting. I was really humbled by the vastness and beauty of the nature.
After a while, some of us went inside the tiny temple of Kalsubai and sat quietly for 5-10 minutes with eyes closed. It was quite an heavenly experience.
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Once we had all the members on the top, we had a group photo in front of Kalsubai temple. The wind was blowing at a forceful pressure almost trying to blow us away. It took us 3.5 hours to reach the summit. The never-ending trail finally ended with the summit.
We were all hungry but still everybody was just roaming around soaking in the beauty of the nature. Somebody from us reminded all that we must finish up with lunch now and start descending as early as possible. We had packed thepala and pickle for lunch. Everybody enjoyed the lunch in the company of beautiful nature. After finishing the lunch, we had a small rest before we started descending. We spent around 1.5 hours on the top as the top has very limited space and was getting crowded.
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Descending was easy as compared to climbing. At certain points, the steep descends very risky due to wet surface. The ladders were slippery due to pouring rain and everybody cautiously negotiated them. It took us around 2.5 hours to descend safely and come to the Bari village. The time was 4.00 pm and it was time for proceed to Pune with great memories in mind of Kalsubai climb.
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The highest peak of Maharashtra gave us some finest experiences of life. The endurance needed to trail the ˜seemed to be never ending trail” was given to everybody of us by the sheer determination of our mind. The best example of how much you can stretch your mind in a given situation. The four ladders taught us that the life’s journey is also like them. You need to look up while climbing the ladders of life and looking down will only lead you to negative thoughts of your past life. The small summit area and the vast expanse of the nature exhibited how a minuscule our life is. And finally, each and every aspect of great nature we met while climbing up or climbing down the summit, taught us the way of living together in adverse conditions.
            Happy and Safe Trekking guys….
Ratnakar Salunke
Please read trekking tips here.
PS: Please pass on your valuable comments below. Your comments are important to me.
Mount Kalsubai Trek: Climbing the Everest of Maharashtra Part-II (Concluding) "Never measure the height of a mountain until you have reached the top. Then you will see how low it was".
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“It’s always further than it looks. It’s always taller than it looks. And it’s always harder than it looks.” (the three rules of mountaineering)
Kalsubai facts:
Height                                  : 5400 feet (1646 meters)
Difficulty Grade                : Medium
Endurance Level              : High
Base Village                  : Bari, Taluka: Akole
Region                                  : Igatpuri
Distance                              : Pune to Bari – 169 km, Nashik to Bari – 60 km
District                                 : Ahmednagar, Maharashtra
Route from Pune             : Pune>Sangamner>Rajur>Bhandardara>Bari
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Kalsubai (Marathi: कळसूबाई शिखर) is a mountain (1646 meters) of the Western Ghats range located in the Indian state of Maharashtra. Its summit situated at an elevation of 5400 feet is the highest point in Maharashtra which earns it the much-glorified title of the ‘Everest of Maharashtra’. The mountain range lies within the Kalsubai Harishchandragad Wild-life Sanctuary. It is visited throughout the year by avid trekkers, kalsubai temple devotees and wild-life enthusiasts alike. The mountain can be viewed, in its entirety, from Bari village located on its eastern side, about six km from Bhandardara. It can be reached by road, via Igatpuri on the Mumbai-Nasik route. Trains leaving from Mumbai provide an alternate mode of transport till Kasara railway station with connecting State transport buses, plying on the Akole-Kasara route, leading up to the base village, Bari. Private vehicles from Kasara provide yet another alternative to public transport. From Pune, the base village Bari can be reached by bus: Pune> Sangamner>Rajur>Bhandardara>Bari
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Read more on trekking tips here
The peak attracts a large number of trekkers and devotees determined to scale the mountain. To reach the summit there are well designated trekking routes. The most popular route is through the eastern mountain face taking off from the base village Bari. The Waki river, a tributary of Pravara, takes origin on its eastern slope and flows as a stream through the outer borders of Bari. At a short distance, away from the stream a Hanuman temple has been built. This provides an important landmark to commence the trek as well as a resting post for those nearing the final lap of their trek. The route from behind this temple takes the hiker straight to the summit. The trek along this route is a mix of easy to ascend slopes as well as treacherous rocky outcrops overlooking the valley below. Considering the increasing foot fall in recent years, the government has built iron ladders along the vertical hill slopes. These assist trekkers to allow for a convenient and safe ascent.
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The route via Indore is relatively unexplored as not many people are aware of it. Unlike the regular route via Bari, which has fixed ladders, cemented steps and several people flocking during the monsoon, the route via Indore is raw with stone steps and a huge iron chain for support at the dangerous patches. The final summit provides a modest area of flat land which holds a sacred temple of a local deity. Local legend says that kalsubai was a house maid residing in a nearby Indorey village. She is believed to have disappeared near the mountain while trying to escape her employer’s relentless torment. This lends the mountain its current name as well as a reason for this temple to be built in her fond memory.
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A traditional prayer service is held every Tuesday and Thursday by a priest. During the festival of Navratri, a fair comes to be organized each year with many stalls being set up near the summit to provide pooja materials to the devotees. On these special occasions, local villagers participate in this fair which helps to supplement their livelihood and as well as provides them an opportunity to worship the mountain. The Trek: Sahyadri mountain range has so many trekking destinations where you can just go and get lost in nature. Mount Kalsubai is a dream destination for every traveler & fellow trekker. It is said to be the highest peak in Maharashtra and a definite destination. A summit to this highest peak of Maharashtra is a trekker’s dream and it is in the topmost list of trekker’s diaries. The whole hilltop is a chunk of the Harishchandragad Kalsubai Sanctuary. A village called Bari is where the route to the summit starts, followed by various trekking routes, the animal tracks in the route gifts a thrilling atmosphere to the climbers. The route to the peak is very well marked and perfectly guides the trekkers. It is one of the most thrilling as well as enjoyable place to trek. The Kalsubai temple is situated in the summit of the peak, only three people can sit in this temple at one time. When one reaches the summit apart from the temple, the hugely spread out backwaters of Bhandardara also attracts the attention.
Learn how to backpack.
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We started our journey on a Saturday night at 11.00 PM from SP College, Pune, with 20 fellow trek mates. A bus was arranged for the whole journey up to the base village Bari to save the time. It was mid of the monsoon and the atmosphere was cloudy on the way. Sometime a quite drizzle was making our journey more pleasant and sometime a thundering cloud clash and sparkling was awakening us from the sleep in the bus. Our driver was cautiously driving through the way to reach the destination in time. Midway at 2.00 am, we had a cup of tea and refreshed ourselves.
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We reached Bari village around 5:30 Am. It was still drizzling outside and we decided to take rest for some hours in the village temple before we could start the trek. Some other group of trekkers who were sleeping in the temple were getting up and preparing themselves for an early morning trek. Our trek leader instructed us that we should get up at 7.00 am and get ready for the trek by 8.00 am. The village was awakening slowly against the silhouette of rising sun and we were preparing ourselves for a short sleep. Anyway, sleeping on a wet surface everywhere was not in the list but a stretch to the body was essential. Hence, everybody made it a point to stretch themselves wherever possible. We got up at 7.00 in the morning. Our trek leaders were busy in preparing breakfast and tea for all. The village girls were fetching water from the hand pump nearby and the sound was adding up with the constant barking of village dogs. Bari is a beautiful village kept neat and clean, surrounded by the lush green paddy fields. The huts were well maintained.
              See you again in Part-II of this blog…
Please visit Part-II here
PS: Please pass on your valuable comments on this blog. Your comments are very important to me.
Ratnakar Salunke
  Mount Kalsubai Trek: Climbing the Everest of Maharashtra Part-I
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Rajmachi Fort
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 2710 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Easy
Endurance                          : Medium
Base Village                       : Udhewadi
Distance from Pune        : 80 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 40-50 minutes from the base
Rajmachi (Udhewadi) is a small village in the rugged mountains of Sahyadri . The fortification at Rajmachi consists of two forts, namely Shrivardhan fort and Manaranjan Fort. Rajmachi Fort is a popular trekking destination. Historically, Rajmachi fort was a strategic fort to control Borghat (ghat between Khopoli and Khandala on Mumbai-Pune route) which was a historical trade route.
Rajmachi is a fort located near Lonavala. It offers an amazing view of the Sahyadri mountains and the backwaters of Shirota Dam. Once you reach the top of the fort you will realize the beauty of this fort. The construction of Rajmachi is just spectacular.
Places to Visit:
Shrivardhan Fort, Manaranjan Fort, Caves and Water Cisterns, Old Temples and Monuments.
How to backpack. Learn more here
Raireshwar
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 4589 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Easy
Endurance                          : Moderate
Base Village                       : Korle, Bhor
Distance from Pune        : 90 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 2 – 2 ½ hours from the base village
Raireshwar is situated in Bhor Taluka near Pune, India, 82 km away. It is situated in between various hills and forts such as Kenjalgad.
Raireshwar has a temple famous for its historical importance. The temple is very old and of stone structure, but it was later re-constructed in the 18th century. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj took the oath of Hindavi Swarajya in this temple at the age of 16 in 1645 and then created history. It’s said that he had cut his little finger and taken the oath by dripping blood onto the Shivling. There is a large portrait of Shivaji Maharaj and his friends inside the temple. Thus, Raireshwar can be considered as an important place in Maratha history. The temple is on a plateau, which has many beautiful flowers during monsoon, the best time to visit this place. Kenjalgad is located at South East of Raireshwar at a very close distance.
Places to Visit:
The places worth visiting at Raireshwar are Raireshwar Mandir, Gomukh Lake, Nakhinda (also known as Aswal Lake), Pandavleni. Kenjalgad is located at South East of Raireshwar at a very close distance.
Also read Trekking Tips for you
Shivneri
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 3500 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Moderate
Base Village                       : Junnar
Distance from Pune        : 110 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 1 ½ – 2 hours from the base village
Junnar means “Jirna Nagar”, one of the oldest cities of ancient India. The Shaka dynasty ruled here. Gautamiputra Satkarni, who was a Satvaahan king, defeated the Shakas to establish his rule. The era of Satvaahan is the most glorious one, as many artistic works were carried out during their rule. Junnar became their capital city. This was the golden era of our culture. Here more than 100 caves were carved out in the mountains surrounding Junnar. The mountain on which fortification was constructed, is well protected by steep scarps, and is the most suitable for constructing caves. Here 64 caves were carved, and also eight inscriptions are found here.
Jadhavrao (father of Jijamata) accompanied Jijamata to Shivneri with a cavalry of 500. Shivaji Maharaj was born in 1630 when Shahaji Maharaj was in a distress.
Shivaji Maharaj left this fort in 1632 and it went into the hands of Mughals in 1637. In 1650, the local fishermen refuted against them. The folks lost to the rulers and were assassinated cruelly on the fort. In 1678, the Marathas raided Junnar, but attempt to capture Shivneri was futile. Shahu Maharaj brought the fort under his control forty years later. Later it was under the control of Peshwas.
Places to Visit:
Shiv Janmasthan, Kadelot point, Shiv Kunj, Kamani Masjid, Ganga Jamuna, Koli Chauthara, Ambarkhana
What are the benefits of trekking? Read here
Rohida
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 3660 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Moderate
Base Village                       : Bajarwadi
Distance from Pune        : 70 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 1 ½ – 2 hours from the base village
A beautiful mountain trail of Sahyadri runs between Bhor – Mahabaleshwar and conceals 3 to 4 forts within it. One of these forts is the Fort of Rohida, also known as Vichitragad or Binicha Killa. It is situated in the valley of Rohid in the Basin of Neera River about 6 miles south of Bhor. The nearest town is Bhor which is 61 km from Pune. The base village of the fort is Bajarwadi which is 7 km from Bhor
This historic fort is known to be from the period of Yadavas. Carvings on the 3rd entrance gate of the fort suggest that the fort was modified by Mohammad Adil-Shah. It also depicts the conquest of this fort in May 1656. Shivaji Maharaj won the fort from the hands of Bandal-Deshmukh of Rohid in a close battle. The conflict resulted in the death of Krishnaji Bandal. After the battle, many officials along with Bajiprabhu Deshpande, a chief administrator of Bandals, were inducted into Swarajya movement.
Places to Visit:
There are three gates on the main entrance path of the fort. There is a rock cut water cistern near the second gate. Rock cut inscription in Farsi language and Marathi on the outer side of the gate. There is a temple of Rohidamalla in good condition. There are seven Bastions on the fort, they are Shirawale Buruj, Patane buruj, Damugade buruj, Waghjai Buruj, Fatte Buruj and Sadar buruj. Series of rock cut cisterns.
Also read my trekking blog on Rohida Fort.
Torana
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 4603 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Moderate
Base Village                       : Velhe
Distance from Pune        : 55 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 3 – 3 ½ hours from the base Village
Whenever Maratha history is recalled it is always the fort of Torna that is commemorated for being one of those forts captured by Shivaji Maharaj in his teenage. It has been rightly said by James Douglas “It was Shivaji’s first conquest, the nucleus around which all the others clustered, making it virtually the cradle of the Marathi Empire, which shocked the throne of the great Moguls. It has been the scene of many bloody battles. If Sinhagad is Lion’s does then Torna is Eagle’s nest.”
Starting from Pune, preferably early in the morning is the best option. From Swargate Bus stand in Pune board any bus to the village of Velhe. The way to Torna starts from here and is quite straight. A walk of couple of hours leads to the “Bini Darwaaja“, the main entrance to the fort.
Places to Visit:
Goddess Toranjai, Budhala Machi, Bini Darwaja, Kothi Darwaja, Hanuman Bastion, Konkan Darwaja, Mengai Devi temple, Zunjar machi.
Also read my trekking blog on Torna Fort: Part-I
And Torna Fort Part-II
Rajgad
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 4603 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Moderate
Base Village                       : Velhe
Distance from Pune        : 65 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 3 – 3 ½ hours from the base Village
RAJGAD FORT – CAPITAL FORT OF “HINDAVI SWARAJYA”. Rajgad fort was recognized as first political base of “Hindavi Swarajya”. It still can be witnessed as an unchallengeable, undisputable and unconquerable fort in ‘Hindavi Swarajya’.
To expand boundaries of Hindavi Swarajya within Maval region, two forts viz. Rajgad and Torna were considered to be at a prime position then. Although, both the forts were equally unchallengeable, Rajgad fort scored an edge over Torna fort primarily because of its huge size. Also, the approach to Rajgad made it more unique as one has to either cross a mountain or a river to reach Rajgad fort. In view of the above factors, Shivaji Maharaj selected Rajgad as a capital fort and political base of ‘Hindavi Swarajya’.
Rajgad trek can be commenced from either of two villages at the base of the fort – Gunjawane and Pali.
Places to Visit:
Padmavati temple, rameshwar temple, Rajwada, Pali Darwaja (Door), Gunjawane Darwaja, Padmawati machi, Sanjivani machi, Alu Drawaja, Suvela Machi and Citadel (Balekilla). This Citadel is highest of all as it stands 1394 meters above Mean Sea Level.
Read my Rajgad Trekking Blog Part-I, Rajgad Trekking Blog Part-II
Do visit my other blogs here.
Trekking in Monsoon: Safety Measures
Basic Trekking Skills
Happy and Safe Trekking….
Take Care
Ratnakar Salunke
PS: Please give your valuable comments on this blog below. Your comments are very very important to me.
              10 must do treks in and around Pune this monsoon: Part-II (Concluding) Rajmachi Fort Type                                      : Hill Fort Fort height                          : 2710 feet MSL Difficulty Level                  : Easy…
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The monsoon is expected to be pouring in full glory this year also. With monsoon, the activity of the trekkers, new as well as old, gears up to welcome the fresh green mountains loaded with many waterfalls and the fog filled mountain peaks. The surroundings in the Sahyadris during monsoon is so innocuous that a one day trek is best enjoyed by all for refreshing the mind.
With long distance treks are generally avoided during monsoon due to traffic jam delays and unsure weather conditions, short distance treks to various forts around Pune city are welcomed by many. Here is the list of such destinations for monsoon treks for your help to plan your monsoon treks. Be sure to visit my blog on Trekking in Monsoon: Enjoy the wilderness with these eight safety measures, to be safer during your monsoon treks to these destinations.
The best time to visit these trekking destinations is from June – February, excluding March, April and May due to hot summer conditions.  However, it is advisable to avoid trekking trips during heavy rains or peak monsoon and plan them in pre-monsoon or post-monsoon period.
All you wanted to know about backpacking.
Sinhagad
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 4400 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Medium
Base Village                       : Aatkarwadi
Distance from Pune        : 30 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 1 ½ – 2 hours from the base
Sinhgad fort is the most sought after and most frequented destination during monsoon. It is best bet for novice trekkers. Sinhgad(The Lion’s Fort), is a fortress located roughly 30 kilometres southwest of the Pune. Previously called Kondhana (Marathi: कोंढाणा), the fort has been the site of many important battles, most notably the Battle of Sinhagad in 1671. It was also strategically located at the centre of a string of other forts such as Rajgad, Purandar and Torna. Given natural protection by its very steep slopes, the walls and bastions were constructed at only key places; it has two gates – the Kalyan Darwaza in the south-east and the Pune Darwaza in the north-east.
You can either go trekking via Aatkarwadi traditional trail or by cycling or drive a vehicle to reach this fort. Once on the top, you will get a 360-degree mesmerizing view of the city while enjoying tea served with delicious hot onion Pakodas. Also savor the taste of Maharashtrian dishes like Zunaka Bhakari, Thecha, mataka dahi and Baingan Bharata.
Places to Visit:
Rajaram Samadhi, Pune Darwaja, Khand Kada, Kalyan Darwaja, Daru Kothar, Kondhaneshwar, Amruteshwar Mandir, Statue of Tanaji, Zunjar Buruj, Tanaji kada, Western Point, Kadelot Point and Bangalow of Lokamanya Tilak.
Tikona Fort:
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 3580 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Medium
Base Village                       : Tikona Peth
Distance from Pune        : 70 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 1 ½ – 2 hours from the base
Fort Tikona (or Vitandgad), which is located in the region of Pawana Mawal and hidden just behind the twin-forts. However, fort Tikona can be clearly identified from the new expressway.
The mountains on Deccan plateau in the vicinity of Bor Ghat have many ancient caves like Karle, Bhaje, Bedse, Bhandara and Shelarwadi. The forts of Lohgad, Visapur, Tung and Tikona were built in order to defend these caves. This region also has a number of Ghat-routes connecting the ports on the western coast to the cities located on the Deccan plateau. These forts served as protectors of these important trade routes of ancient India. As the caves found in this area belong to the Buddhist and Heenyana era, it is believed that these forts must have been built around 800 to 1000 AD.
The whole fort can be seen in an hour’s time, as the area is not so wide.
Places to Visit:
Some remains like Mahadev temple, Fortification Wall, bastion, Water Cisterns, Caves and the mammoth entrance door.
something about trekking etiquettes here
Lohagad Fort:
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 3400 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Easy
Endurance                          : Easy
Base Village                       : Lohagadwadi / Bhaje Village
Distance from Pune        : 80 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 1 hour from the base
Lohgad and Visapur, two forts are situated near Lonavala, a famous place near Pune. Lohgad is 2000 years old, and this is proved by the existence of Bhaje and Karla caves in its vicinity. The Buddhist followers who traveled all over to spread Buddhism carved these out. These were the places where they could get peace of mind, far from people, on high mountains. Thus, the forts played a major role in preserving a great culture.
Owing to its lush green scenery and easy accessibility through steps, Lohagad is considered one of the most ideal trek for beginners.
Places to Visit:
The fort houses many old constructions and much of its fortification is very intact. Ganesh Darwaja, Narayan Darwaja, Hanuman Darwaja are main attractions. A prime attraction of this fort is Vinchu Kata, a spot resembling the tail of a scorpion.
Visapur Fort
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Type                                      : Hill Fort
Fort height                          : 3038 feet MSL
Difficulty Level                  : Medium
Endurance                          : Medium
Base Village                       : Lohagadwadi / Bhaje Village
Distance from Pune        : 80 Kilometers
Time for Trekking            : 1 ½ – 2 hours from the base
Visapur stands at a higher altitude than its twin fort Lohagad and has a few steep steps to climb; hence it is usually more preferred by experienced trekkers.
In spite of being a very big fort, protected by a highly impregnable fortification and presence of a large plateau, less is written about it. The main characteristic of this fort is the strong fortification built on a large plateau, to make it one of the strongest forts. A large plateau of this size is found on many less forts. It is difficult to fire cannons on the fort due to its position. We can see the injuries of destruction caused by Mughals and British on Bhaje caves, but this has not affected Visapur much.
Places to Visit:
Water Cisterns, Fortification Walls, Storage Room, Chuna Ghani (Lime Mixture). Other things that add to the uniqueness of the fort are constructions like the bastion on the western side of the fort. This bastion, unlike others is completely within the main ramparts. Such a construction is rarely seen on other forts. The other remnants include old residential places. There is a fountain on the northwestern side.
Trekking tips for you
To be continued in Part-II
Please click here for Part-II
Enjoy the monsoon… Happy and Safe Trekking..
Ratnakar Salunke
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10 must do treks in and around Pune this monsoon: Part-I The monsoon is expected to be pouring in full glory this year also. With monsoon, the activity of the trekkers, new as well as old, gears up to welcome the fresh green mountains loaded with many waterfalls and the fog filled mountain peaks.
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“Ever since the morning of May 29, 1953, when Tenzing Norgay and I became the first climbers to step onto the summit of Mount Everest, I’ve been called a great adventurer”.
Edmund Hillary
Mount Everest, at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet) is the world’s highest mountain and a particularly desirable peak for mountaineers. Many people have died trying to climb it and in the last few decades, fatalities have occurred every year.
Most deaths have been attributed to avalanches, injury from fall, ice collapse, exposure, or health problems related to conditions on the mountain. Not all bodies have been located, so details on those fatalities are not available.
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The upper reaches of the mountain are in the death zone. The death zone is a mountaineering term for altitudes above a certain point – around 8,000 meters (26,000 feet), or less than 356 millibars (5.16 psi) of atmospheric pressure – where the oxygen level is not sufficient to sustain human life. Many deaths in high-altitude mountaineering have been caused by the effects of the death zone, either directly (loss of vital functions) or indirectly (unwise decisions made under stress or physical weakening leading to accidents). In the death zone, the human body cannot acclimatize, as it uses oxygen faster than it can be replenished. An extended stay in the zone without supplementary oxygen will result in deterioration of bodily functions, loss of consciousness and, ultimately, death.
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As soon as Mount Everest was crowned as the world’s tallest mountain, people inevitably had to climb it. And just as inevitably, many of them failed. While more than 2,200 people have succeeded, nearly 200 have lost their lives attempting the climb.
So why climb Everest? The most famous answer to this question came from climber George Mallory: “because it is there.” Though he was likely responding in frustration after being asked the same question dozens of times, his answer concisely cuts to the heart of the matter.
It’s a perfectly sensible question. We’ve spent our entire history as a species trying to eliminate all the things that can kill us, and for the most part have escaped the food chain, so why would anyone spend a vacation climbing a mountain whose top is referred to as “the Death Zone”?
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Mountains are wonderful places because they are dangerous. There are no warning signs and no safety railings. In a world full of rules, wild places offer freedom to roam and explore, both the terrain and our own limits. People don’t set out on a climb believing they will die doing it, just as no one who dies in an automobile accident on the way to work does. You control the variables you can, and in your mind, you make peace with the risks.
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Climbers often feel that the mountains are a place where we’re most in control of what happens, believe it or not. If you make what you see as good decisions and can mitigate variables like avalanches, weather, and geology, there’s really no one to blame besides yourself if things go wrong up there.
Kudos to so many successful and unsuccessful climbers of Mount Everest who make up their mind to scale Mount Everest. Making up a mind itself is a half-achieved summit. It requires guts, tenacity and determination to make up the mind. Climbers who climb Mount Everest summit after summit and still they do not crave the success are great in themselves. Hats off to these achievers of self-determination and tenacity.
One such ambitious climber, Lhakpa Sherpa, 44, stood atop the summit of world’s highest mountain for the eighth time from the North Col (Tibetan side). Great achievement for her and a sense of pride for scalers of Mount Everest.
Read more on this news here.
        Have a safe and wonderful trekking…
Ratnakar Salunke
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So Why Climb Mount Everest? "Ever since the morning of May 29, 1953, when Tenzing Norgay and I became the first climbers to step onto the summit of Mount Everest, I've been called a great adventurer".
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Come monsoon season and the greenery all around the mountains, mesmerizing waterfalls, and a pleasant atmosphere starts attracting many old and new people, experienced or new trekkers to indulge in the beautiful nature. Some take to mighty Sahyadris for fulfilling their challenge of height, some take to dams, riverside or a simple nature trail like Bhimashankar. But, while monsoon trekking is delightful, it can get a bit risky also if proper care is not taken. Especially for beginners and children’s the treks in the wilderness during monsoon can be a big challenge, facing the all new terrain and the gushing water from the height. Trekking in rain calls for caution.
The thrill of hiking up and finally reaching your destination with a bird’s eye view of the place is a joy beyond words. But if you are planning to go for a trek this monsoon, there are a few tips you should keep in mind to avoid any injuries and make your journey memorable and safe.
Best Time to Trek in Monsoon.
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The best time to embark upon on a trekking trip is during the pre-monsoon and post-monsoon showers. A trek in the middle of the full monsoon is little bit dangerous as the heavy shower from above and the forcefully flowing water from the top of the mountain makes your trek difficult. You are not able to judge the depth of the water bodies on the trek route and also the visibility around you is less due to heavy shower and fog.  Also, a day trek is safer than a night trek with children around. The heavy rains can make the trekking path murky and difficult to climb.  If there are any waterfalls or streams on the trail, you may not be able to gauge the volume of water, thereby making the trek further unsafe.
Prepare yourself for a tough and treacherous journey.
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It’s a very bad idea to get up suddenly and join a trek, either in the monsoon or in any other season. Remember your body structure and capacity in normal routine days and prepare a scale up capacity of your body to face the wilderness before embarking upon the wild nature. Jog or walk for a few days, join a gymnasium and work out for a few days. Prepare your body for an adventurous sport well in advance. Trekking is an adventure sport, where you pitch your stamina and endurance against nature.
Prepare your sack for monsoon adventure.
The sack you fill while embarking on a trek is different for different season and the number of trek days also. So, in monsoon your sack should normally be packed with following things.
Ø  A waterproof sack which should resist at least 80% of rain water. Other alternative is to use waterproof sack cover around your existing normal sack.
Ø  More amount of drinking water than usual treks in summer and winter. In monsoon, the humidity all around is more and so is the body perspiration losing more water from the body. You need to carry at least 4.0 liter of drinking water in a days’ trek.
Ø  Carry body rehydration salt powder like Electral. Through perspiration, your body loses vital minerals and salts while trekking. Replenishing these lost salts and minerals in the body is essential to maintain the energetic performance of your body. So, drink at least 1.0 liter of Electral water during a day’s trek. I would not recommend the Glucose shots which are available in the market as they provide instant energy for a while and are not good for long term. Also, the sudden splurge of energy in the body is not well tolerated.
Ø  Wear nylon full sleeve T-Shirt, nylon track pant and a good waterproof cap or hat to protect your body. Nylon cloths are good for quick drying and does not absorb water easily. Do not wear cotton and jean pant. Jeans become wet easily and does not dry up quickly adding water weight. It is highly uncomfortable to climb or descend the trail with wet jeans. Take a rain coat or rain jacket to protect yourself from rain.
Ø  Carry extra nylon dress in the sack just in case you get an opportunity to change your wet dress after the trek is over. It’s refreshing in the dry clothes when you travel back home.
Ø  Eatables (Dry fruits, fresh fruits, nuts, chocolate etc. are instant sources of energy, and therefore are the best snacks to carry on a trek), some first aid medicine, a small knife, flip flop, light towel, a pocket-torch should be packed in the sack.
Ø   A hygiene kit comprising a hand sanitizer, a few tissue papers and an insect repellant are other essential things to pack in the sack.
Ø  Matchsticks or lighter. This is an absolutely mandatory accessory on a trek. Even if you may never have to use it, carry one anyway. You never know when it may come in handy.
Ø  Most important, everything extra packed in a double polyethylene bag to avoid water going inside the stuff. Use zip lock bags for better protection from water.
Good Shoes are a must:
Remember, you are hiking out in the wilderness and the terrain in city and wilderness are different. There is muddy trail, scree, water ponds, slippery rocks, thorny bushes all around the jungle. To protect your feet from all these, a good investment in shoes is necessary. Use good quality jungle shoes with ankle support or special monsoon trekking shoes. A shoe with good ground grip, comfortable to wear, light in weight and somewhat waterproof is a good option. Please do not wear sandals, flip flops, or canvass shoes. These will certainly spoil your day ahead in the trek due to frequent slipping.  The best and cheap options are Liberty Jungle Shoes or Campus Trekking shoes.
Don’t try to be a Columbus
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The mountain forts and other trekking spots are marked with routine trails through years of walking down the same route. They are confirmed destination to your summit. Follow these trails while on a summit. Do not try to explore your own way rather than a fixed muddy routine trail. If you try to unfollow the routine trail, you are certain to lose your way in the dense jungle. That is dangerous in an unknown terrain. It not only costs you time to regain your original trail but it also makes you nervous and demotivated due to unknown surrounding. So, follow the trek mates and follow the age old trusted trail. A lot of people get lost when they leave the trail to answer nature’s call. If you need to do so, make sure you inform a group member or the leader so that they know exactly where you are and do not walk on.
Follow the Trek Leader’s Instructions Carefully.
Many a times, in an excitement to start the trek and reach the summit, we do not listen carefully to the trek leader’s instructions at the base camp before we start the summit. Remember, your trek leader is an experienced trekker and knows the surrounding terrain better than you. Respect the trek leader’s instructions irrespective of his age and gender. He is the guy who has the responsibility and capacity to take you to the summit and return back safely. So, take the instructions seriously and follow them religiously during the trek. Always coordinate with your group leader when you trek. Never leave the group and if you need to, inform the group leader before you do so.
Avoid Trekking Alone
Trekking is not to be taken lightly. Accidents can happen to the strongest and most experienced of trekkers. In fact, even experts recommend travelling in groups of a minimum of 5 people. When you trek, make sure you do so with an experienced guide and a group of trekkers.
Inform your outing details to your family and near ones.
Make sure your family members are also aware of your trip. Pass on all the information of the trip as well as contact information of local authorities or the contact number of the club to your family before you set out. Also set a time-frame for your return so that they can take necessary action in case of an unfortunate accident.
I hope these tips will make the trekking tour safe and stress – free for you and your family!
Nature in monsoon is at its best and needs to be enjoyed with a sense of self and group safety. Respect the nature and its wild aroma. Explore the past and relate it to your present.
Preserve the beauty of nature by repacking any leftover food and other litter and carrying them back with you.
Happy and Safe Trekking.
      Ratnakar Salunke
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Trekking in Monsoon: Enjoy the wilderness with these eight safety measures. Come monsoon season and the greenery all around the mountains, mesmerizing waterfalls, and a pleasant atmosphere starts attracting many old and new people, experienced or new trekkers to indulge in the beautiful nature.
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“Keep close to Nature’s heart… and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods. Wash your spirit clean”. John Muir
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Our boats will take us to Met indavali which is base of Vasota and Nageshwar. It takes around 1 -1.5 hrs to reach to Met Indavali from Bamnoli. Though 1.5 hrs is a long period, the traveling is not at all boring. Whole journey offers you great views on both banks of Koyana river.
We reached Met indavali at around 10 a.m. As soon as you reach Kyona Tiger Reserve, you need to make an entry at the entrance gate. We had to declare all the items which includes camera, water bottles, plastic wrappers etc. I loved the way this tiger reserve administration is giving their best to keep it clean. Vasota fort route is very well marked and it’s not at all confusing. The trail is displayed with many boards explaining which animals can be found in this reserve forest. This also confirms our trail and there is little chance of getting lost in the forest. List of animals found around this area includes Wild Dogs, Bears, Leopards and even Tigers. Even though there is dense forest, Vasota Trek is not confusing because Path is clearly marked by stones and there is clear trail. You enter the forest through a huge gate. In front of the gate there is forest office of Met indavali.
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From this forest office, right side path leads us to the Vasota fort. The jungle was so dense that at 12 in the afternoon it looked like its 4 pm. There was very little sunlight touching the base of the jungle. It was a beautiful trek with inclinations, steps and more inclined walk. The jungle was full of different varieties of birds and trees. We were told that there are animals but they don’t come close to the trekking path as they keep away from people. We followed the track in the forest and after forty-five minutes of continuous walk, we reached an open temple of Maruti. There is a natural water stream in this place. To the right of the idols is a dried-up stream. Although it is dried up now, the stream must be a roaring-monster during the monsoons. All the greenery in and around the stream makes this evident!. We took some rest at this point. After crossing this stream, you will enter the dense forest of Koyana. The whole trail from this point on wards is covered with huge and dense cover of trees and literally blocks the sun rays from entering the ground. So, unlike the other Sahyadri treks, here Sun won’t affect you much which is the best part of this Trek. On the both sides of the trail, you will find trees like Anjan, Pisa, Nana Behada, Amba, Kumbhi, Jambhul etc. Since this part of jungle is full of dense tree cover and bushes, we may come across some wild animals like Bison, Bhekar, Bear etc. It is highly advised not to make any noise and disturb the natural environment of nature and scare these animals. Watch the beautiful and mesmerizing nature while trekking. There are few patches having steep climb but I won’t say it was hard to climb but for the first timers it was difficult. There were few first-time trekkers with us who started cursing themselves for coming for this trek.  😉
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After trekking this beautiful trail from the jungle for next one hour or so, you will come across “Y” fork of the jungle. The trail which goes straight leads to the Vasota Fort and the trail on the right side will lead you to the Nageshwar Temple Caves. We took the Vasota Fort Trail as decided. There are stairs which are carved in the stone which will take us to the cliff. After 20 minutes of walk from here we reached a rock patch which is without much trees and it was very hard to walk it under afternoon sun. We could see the fortification from here.
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Once thru this rocky patch you could see old stone stairs to the fort. There are two entrances to the New Vasota one of which is in a dilapidated state and the fort can be entered through only the second entrance. After climbing the stone carved stairs for few minutes, we enter the Vasota fort through a shattered main entrance gate. As you climb the steps of Vasota’s main entrance you cannot help but feel sad for the bad condition of the fort neglected by people and the government in general. The bastions and gates destroyed by the Britishers when they captured the fort still take you back to those days.
On our left, we will find a trail going along a fortification which takes us to the two water tanks. Actually, it is one water tank but a wall is built in the middle so it is separated in two water tanks. The reason for this may be the water conservation, keeping one tank as buffer tank. This is the only water storage tank which supplies water to the fort for entire year. From this water tank, we followed the straight trail which goes up to the top of the fort. When you reach the tip of the fort, you can see Babu Kada. The sight of Babu Kada reminds us the great Konkan Kada of Harishandragad and Shailkada of Salher. From this point, we can view Old Vasota fort. Now Trekkers cannot visit old Vasota as there is no way which can lead us to the Old Vasota fort and the presence of wild animals in the area makes it impossible to visit there. The valley between Babukada and Fort Vasota is fearful and deep. Strong wind force gushing through the valley can be felt here. After watching this wonderful natural creation of nature, we return back and move ahead where we will find remains of fortification and a lime kiln constructed in the stone. Near this kiln, you will find a roofless temple of Maruti. The stairs and the arch of this roofless temple are still in good shape. On the west side from here, we also can see some remains of a mansion. The foundation of this mansion is constructed in molded stones and we can just imagine the hugeness of this mansion. The mansion is clean cut and has a square inside with walls which have fallen.
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We proceeded from this place further and walked to the right side of the fort. On the way, we can see a dry lake. Walking further we will come to the temple of Bhavani Goddess. In the temple, we can find Shivlinga in the sanctum instead of Bhavani Goddess. The temple is well constructed and is still in good condition. When we walk further at the lower stage of the fort, we will find a Machi resembling the Scorpion Claw of Lohagad fort. It is called as a Thane (Place) of Kalakai. The first gate of this Thane has fallen down but the bastion still exists. When we descend further from the stairs, we see an arch. Proceed towards the machi, which has no construction remains on it. From this point, the surrounding nature is outstanding. After watching the beautiful nature, we returned back from this point.
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This completes our trek to Vasota Fort. You will require around 2 hours to explore the fort.
This trek definitely tested our stamina and patience but gave us deep sense of joy. Memories of sleeping under the sky full of stars, amazing boat ride amidst the mountains and turquoise water, walking through the dense forest , view of Konkan from the top, towering Babu kada, tortuous and never-ending rocky route while climbing down would remain with me for a long, long time.
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Visit Vasota to experience its mightiness and beauty. Breathtaking view of babukada, deep valleys, dense jungle will make you to fall in love with the Sahayadri.
Please make sure that you complete your trek before 5.30 pm. because it is not allowed to stay in Koyana forest after 5.30 p.m , as wild animals gets active after sunset which makes this a very dangerous place.
Try walking as silent as you can ,it will increase your chances of capturing any wild animal in your camera.
Proper precaution should be taken against leach while visiting Vasota during monsoon.
        Bye for now…
Happy and safe trekking…
Ratnakar Salunke
PS: Please do not forget to comment on this blog. Your comments are important to me.
Trek to Vasota Fort: Wilderness Trek in Koyna Wildlife Sancturay Part-II (Concluding) “Keep close to Nature's heart... and break clear away, once in a while, and climb a mountain or spend a week in the woods.
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“Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion…”- Sir Anatoli Boukreev
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Type                                      : Forest Fort
Fort range                           : Mahabaleshwar
Height                                  : 1171 meters (3614 feet)
Base village                         : Bamnoli (near Satara)
Difficulty                             : Medium
Endurance Level               : Medium to High
Distance from Pune        : 140 km
District                                : Satara
Situated in dense forests surrounded by river Koyna is the fort of Vasota, which according to the ‘Dnyaneshwari’ means a resting place. This fort is also known by the name of Vyaghragad. Vasota fort is situated on the banks of the Shivsagar dam. Met Indavali is the base village of Vasota. From here the forest path leads us to the top of Vasota. It takes two to three hours to reach the top. It is a gradual climb and through dense forest. It is an ideal trek in winter and summer. The view from top is breath-taking. The fort is covered by a thick reserved forest. On the east side are the backwaters of Shivsagar dam. After that one can see the mountain range of Kas Mahabaleshwar. Steep falls or cliffs on the west side of the fort and the mountain ranges add to the beauty of the place. Nageshwar cave is visible on the north of the fort. It is a two hours’ trek from Vasota.
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History:
This fort got its name from Vashishta rishi. This is enough to prove that this fort has a long history. This fort is situated at banks of Koyana River and is surrounded by thick forest and deep valleys and due to its strategic location later this Mountain was fortified.
This fort got its importance during Shivaji Maharaj’s Jawali raid. Recent study shows that this fort was not won by Shivaji Maharaj during his Jawali raid. When Shivaji Maharaj defeated Chandrarao More his troops took Javli and other forts in the Konkan region excluding Vasota. But on June 6, 1660  Vasota became a part of Swarajya, it was a period when Shivaji was trapped in Panhalgad.
Marathas found 26,000 rupees on the fort. After Shivaji and Sambhaji Maharaj era the fort was under Pant Pratinidhi control. In 1706, Tai Telini brought the fort under her control. The very next year Peshwa conquered the fort. In 1818 along with other forts of Marathas, this fort came under British control and hence got destroyed.
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This fort was mainly used as Military Station or as resting place for Soldiers. Due to its difficult location and accessibility this fort was also used for storing wealth of Swarajya.
On Sajjangad which is in Satara there is a letter stating that when Auranzeb attacked Sajjangad , people from surrounding region went to Vasota fort for their safety. People were aware that it is impossible for any outsider to win this mighty fort which is well protected by Sahyadri itself.
Fort Vasota comes under Tiger Project (forest department). We have to take prior permissions from the forest authorities and can be done on the same day as you plan your trek from Bamnoli. There are two forts actually. The old Vasota and new Vasota. The old Vasota is not easily accessible. We were supposed to hike new Vasota.
How to reach:
There are two major routes to reach to Vasota fort. First rout goes from Bamnoli village which is in Satara. Second route goes from Choravane village which is in Chiplun. As per the Forest  departments rule we cannot stay at Vasota fort as well as on Nageshwar.
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From Bamnoli:
Bamnoli is in Satara District and is about 30 kms from Satara city. This is the easiest route to reach to the top of Vasota. As the Vasota and Nageshwar both falls under Sahyadri Tiger reserve you need to take permission from forest office of Bamnoli to enter the Sahyadri Tiger reserve.  On this route, we have to cross Koyana Dam backwater which is called as Shivsagar Lake. From Bamnoli we need to travel to Met Indavali by Boat which charges around 3,200/- for 12 people. The boat takes around 1.5 hrs to reach Met Indavali. Met indavali is the base of Vasota and Nageshwar. In Met Indavali there is another Forest office. Take a guide from here if needed.
Bamnoli Forest office opens at 8.00 am so the first ferry boat from Bamnoli to Met Indavali starts at 8.30 a.m.
From Choravane:
Choravane is in kokan region. You need to go to Chipalun >> Choravane. From Choravane it takes around 5-6 hrs to reach Vasota. This route is damn tiring. And there is no water on the way so one has to carry his own supply.
The Trek:
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We, a group of 28 trekkers started from Pune on a Saturday night at 11.30 pm by a private bus to Bamnoli village. Making the night journey and reaching early at Bamnoli village would help us to get a complete day for completing the Vasota Fort trek comfortably. Since it was March and the summer has just started, the drive itself was amazing with open highway and sky full of stars. Sometimes dozing a bit in the bus and sometime just looking outside the window, our time passed quickly and we reached our destination early in the morning at 3.30 am. After a travel of 4 hours, we reached Bamnoli village. Bamnoli is a small village where passes are issued to reach the base of the jungle by the forest department. We had plenty of time and a quick power nap was advisable to shrug off the sleepless tiredness. So everybody hurried towards Bhairav Mandir, the place where some people can sleep for a while. The sleep took over quickly on everybody and we got up at 6.30 am again to prepare ourselves for the early trek to Vasota fort. We had hot Pohe and Chai for breakfast and after a quick breakfast, a look in our backpack for correctness of things was carried out. Everybody was excited for the day ahead and waited for the trek leader’s instructions. A quick introduction round was carried out followed by trek leader’s instructions for the trek.
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Finally, it was time for our boats to arrive and there came our two lovely boats.  The scenic beauty of Sukhsagar lake water was amazing. So many boats waiting for the trekkers to board. The faint looking mountain in the background is Madhu-Makrand Gad and there is Tapola (famously called the mini Kashmir of the west is a rustic hamlet with a magnificent lake – Shivsagar. on the other side). We boarded the boat with 14 persons (maximum capacity) in each boat and our boat journey to Vasota started with the picturesque setting all around. Everybody was enjoying the boat journey with spectacular views all around. There is a dense forest around lake inhabiting many wild animals. Many of these animals come to drink water in this lake. The boat ride was amazing, with clouds and sun playing hide and seek, it formed beautiful patterns on water. Excitement to reach the jungle was growing with every passing minute. After boat journey of more than an hour, finally Vasota became visible. Almost 75% of Vasota is covered by dense forest and only 25% is exposed. Views all around were so beautiful and everybody was clicking pictures.
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Bye for now…
To be continued in Part-II
Please click here for Part-II
Ratnakar Salunke
PS: Please do not forget to comment on this blog. Your comments are important to me.
Trek to Vasota Fort: Wilderness Trek in Koyna Wildlife Sancturay : Part-I “Mountains are not Stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion…”-
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“May your dreams be larger than mountains and may you have the courage to scale their summits.” ― Harley King
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The trek route starts from the rice fields initially and then merges with the wilderness of the nature ahead. Our trekker group was a mix of first timers and experienced one so it was inevitable that we should remain in a group while trekking. The beginning of the trek is a terrain of a pretty steep uphill climb which will test your endurance, but reward comes in the form of exotic fauna and flora which you will see nowhere else. Till you reach the first table top point you end up crossing the Pravara river multiple times and there is every chance of getting lost in the woods. After crossing the first table top, the route is pretty much straight forward, there is a bifurcation to go to Harischandragad at some distance ahead, but there is clear board with sign on it. Also, there are lots of other signs in the form of white arrows and red ribbons tied to trees to guide one to the destination. The climb through the jungle is grueling but relief presents itself as two plateaus that fall in the middle of the trek, plateaus which will surely be a relief for catching your breath and rejuvenating yourself. The terrain is mud with all size of rocks in between. The good thing is that there is an ample amount of tree cover to shield one from the sun. The jungle is well-known for wild animals, mostly wild boars. Our march towards the summit was although a bit slower but definite. Taking small halts for drinking water and relaxing a little, we proceeded further on the trail. The sky was playing hide and seek with the sun shine and heavy clouds. Although there was no rain during the trek, we expected showers on the top of the fort. After a walk of two hours or so, we reached a fork. The straight track goes to the pass of Katrabai and the right leads us to Ratangad.
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We took the right track and after walking for another half an hour we reached to the point where two iron ladders are erected for climbing. The ladders are in a difficult position and one wonders how those ancient people were climbing the fort without these ladders. Even climbing with the help of these ladders gives chills in the body. Added to this, we faced sudden shower and stormy wind, which made our climb more adventurous. By now, the sky was full of dark clouds and it was sure that we will be enjoying rain and cloud dance while on the top of fort.
Climbing the ladders with lot of caution and safety, we enter the fort through the Ganesh darwaja. This first gate of the fort is small in size. On the arch of the door we can see carved image of Bhairav and on the left side of the pillar of the gate carving of Ganesha.  From Ganesh Darwaja side one can see Katarbai fort, little ahead is the Ajoba fort. One can see Ghanchakkar and Muda fort towards east. The backwaters of Bhandardara dam are visible throughout the fort ridge.
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After crossing this gate and turning right we reach in front of Hanuman gate. There is a cave temple just before this gate, where one can stay. Inside the cave, there is statue of Ratandevi, the deity of the fort. There is another spacious cave just ahead of this point, where people can stay. We then proceed to Hanuman gate and cross ahead to reach the top of the fort. As we go ahead, we come across a circular single bastion called “Ranicha Huda”. Nearby to this there is a water tank. On the eastern part of the fort, there is a large water tank which is full of water. On the edge of this water tank, Shivalinga and a small Nandi statue can be seen.
Moving ahead on this trail, we will come across three more water tanks. There are lots of water tanks spread across the fort, though the water didn’t look portable. Now we move further to west side on the track hidden in the tall grass, we come across the ruined Konkan Darwaja. Nearly half of this gate is buried in the ground. The gate way is small and beautiful but the path proceeding through it is blocked with stones. Here also we can see some water tanks carved in stone which has potable water in it. The track passing by the side of these water tanks takes us to the northern tip. From here we can see beautiful view of Alang, Kulang and Madan forts in the distant.
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Before proceeding to Nedhe, we will come across a cave and a small entrance to it. Out of curiosity, one of our trek member decided to enter the cave and see the inside of the cave. Fortunately, I had a torch with me (it is always a part of my trekking gear, whether it is a day trek or night trek). After entering this cave, we can see a water tank inside, which is potable and a huge space on the other side. This was amazing and just imagine the usage of the same in those time for peaceful rest without anybody’s disturbance.  From here we will proceed towards the Nedhe. The huge rock sheet wall on the northern side of the fort, we can see a big natural hole in the wall, called “Nedhe” in marathi (Eye of the Needle). The way towards Nedhe is slippery due to scree and lot of precaution is to be taken. After reaching the Nedhe, one can sit in the Nedhe and enjoy the blissful breeze of wind. There is a way passing through this nedhe on the other side of the fort. We pass through this nedhe and come to the spacious and magnificent Trimbak darwaja facing north side of the fort. This door is unique door and there are vestibules on both side of the door. Trimbak darwaja used to be the main entrance to the fort at those times. This door descends through 150 stone cut stairs and one has to stick to the cliff side of these stairs while descending. The stairs lead to a shining crag called “Khutta”. After exploring the “Khutta”, one can go down from this side and reach Ratanwadi in two to three hours’ time. It is a different thrill to ascend from a different way and descend from a different way. This gives an opportunity to explore the fort in a complete way. So we decideed to descend from Trimbak darwaja route and reach Ratanwadi.
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The complete exploration of the fort needs around 3-4 hours and we are happy that we could do that by time management right from the start of trek. We were lucky that the rain god marked its presence when we were on the fort. The wandering through showers and the clouds was amazing and memorable. The best part of the trek was walking with the clouds which is simply beyond any description. Ratangad fort is huge and the few remains on the fort tell us the glory of the fort in silent words. It is truly the “Jewel of the Fort”.
After having lunch and some more rest on the fort, we started descending the fort through Trimbak darwaja. The descend of 150 stairs from Trimbak Darwaja was more challenging. One has to stick to the cliff side while descending the stairs as there is a huge fearsome valley on the right side. The wind gushing through the valleys makes you unbalanced and the shower makes the stairs more slippery. It took us about 2 hours and thirty minutes to climb down and come to the base village.
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After reaching base village, we proceeded towards the Amruteshwar temple. This temple is a Hemadpanthi type of creation. Beautiful carvings on the wall are the main attraction of this temple. The temple and the area surrounding it is kept clean and auspicious. One gets a sense of fulfilment in the company of this temple. The trek to Ratangad is incomplete without visiting this wonderful temple.
It was time to return now. We all proceeded to Pune by our vehicle with lot of cherished and enliven memories. One thing was for sure, that we all gathered and travelled together with one aim, without knowing each other. But while returning, we all came to the same wavelength and became good friends. What else one can expect from a hobby like trekking? That is the spirit of helping each other, extending hand to fellow trekker in case of difficulty and a sense of responsibility towards our great heritage and wonderful, mystic nature.
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Bye for now..
Happy and Safe Trekking…
Ratnakar Salunke
PS: Please pass on your comments on this blog. Your comments are important to me..
The trek to Ratangad fort – The Jewel of the Forts: Part-II (Concluding) “May your dreams be larger than mountains and may you have the courage to scale their summits.”
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