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Sunday, June 2, 2019

I am so happy that I finally got to visit Christ the Redeemer! These past few days have been full and exhausting as I try to make the most of my final days in Rio. I have visited Sugarloaf Mountain, the favelas (including a church), some of Rio’s old Olympic facilities, Escadaria Selarón, the Candelária Church, the Carioca Aqueduct, samba performances, Copacabana Beach, St. Anthony Parish of the Poor (and its museum collection), St. George Church, the Great Israelite Temple, murals with religious symbols, and St. Joseph Church.

That was quite the list (congratulations for making it through), but in the end this trip doesn’t boil down to how many places I visited nor the number of people I spoke with. I leave tomorrow morning and all I can think about is how much I learned about a topic that at times seemed like a dead end during my pre-departure research. If I were not to have embarked on this journey, I wouldn’t have had the opportunity nor the resources to answer my questions or to find out that there is a lot that I still don’t know. I am so grateful to have been given this opportunity and to look back on this completed project after months of late nights brainstorming, writing, and editing my proposal. I am especially excited to rejoin the W&J campus, specifically the Interfaith Leadership department, and share the pictures and stories which I carefully collected on this journey. I didn’t even apply for a Magellan project my freshman year, let alone complete one, probably because I felt as if it were merely a dream in which I didn’t have the time nor the ideas to invest. Now, I hope to share what I learned with others and to take this knowledge with me as I study abroad, consider internships, and prepare for a Magellan proposal during my Junior year. Although I am pursuing an English major, a Biology minor, and an Interfaith Leadership concentration as a pre-health student who is far more likely to seek a job in the medical field than in religious studies, this chance to explore that passion of mine made my concentration more thorough and valued, in my opinion. Especially since we do not have any courses focusing on South American religions back at W&J, I know that I am bringing something extra to the table which I can use to improve classroom dynamics and my investment in my formal studies. Thank you so much for this opportunity, for it truly changed my life.

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Thursday, May 30, 2019

*Of course any church structure has nothing to do with the quality or importance of the actual church, but they do say something about the culture, so I hope you understand that all of my descriptions and comparisons are included to convey my experiences and perspectives and not out of insults or any intention of focusing only on the external products of faith. 

I arrived in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil this morning at 4:00 am (aka 2:00 am based on my adjustment to the time in Peru). Once I was safe in my hotel room, though, I was so excited that I couldn’t imagine falling asleep and wasting the morning. Instead, I refreshed myself, grabbed some breakfast (and discovered that pancakes here are to DIE for), and then depended on a few maps of the city to help me explore. Not only was I able to take in the view of the exotically painted buildings, the abundance of graffiti, and the lush foliage, I also came across a few Catholic churches and the city’s Presbyterian cathedral! All of these churches were amazing and extremely different from those back home or in Peru. The Catholic churches were open to the public, so I was fortunately able to explore them a bit. They were extravagant to say the least; every wall and nook was covered in intricate decoration. These churches had a few stained-glass windows (more than in Peru but way less than in the Catholic churches back home) but mostly windows decorated in iron designs and without glass (since it is so hot here). I also noticed that they all have balconies, especially near the altar, which makes me wonder if those are still in use or if they were used by people of importance or by religious people. As is customary, the wall space at the back of the altar was decorated, but I realized a trend in the style of decoration here. Most of these churches decorate said wall space with a sort of stair-like structure, which leads up to a statue of Jesus. I presume that this is symbolic for the ascension of Jesus and also for the church being the way to Heaven. Every Catholic church here also has a side chapel, usually off of the altar, where I saw a few people praying in each church. Compared to Peruvian Catholic churches, though, these churches were empty in terms of parishioners casually praying. Luckily, one of the churches had some pieces from a priest’s collection of religious objects, which was neat to explore.

Unfortunately, the Presbyterian cathedral was gated off from the public (and vandalizers), so I was unable to go inside. The outside was gorgeous, though… it even had a surrounding garden with statues! It was somewhat smaller in size than any of the Catholic churches I visited, yet its exteriors were arguably more beautiful. I was so excited to see a church of another denomination since I expected that I would have that opportunity to round out my studies here in the city. Rio de Janeiro is more developed than any city I visited in Peru and more diverse (by observation). I definitely blend in better here, though I do not speak any Portuguese. I hope that during my stay in Rio I will be able to track down other non-Catholic religious places, not because I don’t enjoy the Catholic churches, but because I want to compare the Catholic vs non-Catholic population, practices, representation, etc.

The absolute highlight of my day came about during this morning walk around the city. I was able to visit Catedral Metropolitana de São Sebastião do Rio de Janeiro, which was the #2 reason for my visit to Rio (behind the famous “Christ the Redeemer” statue). This Catholic cathedral architecture could not be further from the other Catholic churches that I described above. Built of concrete and in massive proportions, São Sebastião is a round structure with a skylight cross for a ceiling. Each of the four ends of the cross leads to a gigantic stained-glass masterpiece, which spans all the way from the ceiling to the top of an entrance into the building. Seeing as I am no expert in architecture (and there were no tour guides available to inform me), it is difficult to describe the church. I will attach pictures, but they do not do it justice. The only aspect of São Sebastião which is harder to describe than its structure is the experience of walking into such a magnificent place. I honestly broke down in tears at the sheer sight of the church and all its glory when I first stepped through the entranceway. Personally, I have always been a fan of the traditional cathedral-look frequently seen back home rather than modern churches that have been built more recently. Yet I don’t think I’ve ever been in a more stunning church―even the Vatican―than São Sebastião. Obviously this is just my opinion, but I mean it wholeheartedly. I hold every church or religious building/site which I visit to the utmost importance, but the grandeur of São Sebastião was beyond anything I have experienced before. Going into this trip, I knew I was looking forward to this particular cathedral, but nothing could have prepared me for just how huge this church truly is. Since three of the massive stained-glass windows lead to the three entrances (the fourth leads to the altar/chapel behind the altar), these entrances are also huge. The echo of local children playing basketball sounded throughout the entire cathedral, and combined with the hot Brazilian sun shining through the windows, the place was filled with warmth. It was unlike any other church I’ve ever experienced. I could continue to talk about this cathedral all day, so I apologize for rambling on, but believe me when I say that I’m still sparing you most of the details.

From São Sebastião, I visited a local marketplace and then explored a little bit more before taking an unexpected but much-needed nap to recharge. I was awoken by a massive protest directly outside of my hotel. Don’t worry Mom or any college official: I am staying on the 21st floor of my hotel (far from the protest), I did not participate, and I was safe. You’re welcome for listening to the “do not engage in protests” point during every study abroad/JayTerm,/Magellan info session. They paid off. Before grabbing dinner, I was able to explore the area a little bit more during the sunset, making for gorgeous photos and views.

I already wish I had more time here in Rio. I absolutely love to travel, explore, and be adventurous, and as a result my list of places I’d like to visit seems miles long. Therefore I go into every trip with the mindset that it will be my first and last time to visit said place. This enables me to make the most of every day, to be as grateful as possible for the blessings of new experiences, and to help me cope with the fact that my time to travel is limited, so I’d rather visit new places than to revisit a place. Usually this works; besides the United States and Israel, I have been able to soundly check places off of my list with a sense of appreciation and closure. But I don’t feel that sense of finality with Rio. I haven’t even spent 24 hours here and I can’t imagine this being my last time here. Whether or not I’ll actually be able to make another visit is yet to be determined, but I can say this for now: I’ve definitely found a home in Rio.

[luseizestheday-blog]

Tuesday, May 28, 2019

Today was my last day in Peru, so I spent the day in Cusco, seeing as I barely had time to scratch its surface prior to my Machu Picchu excursion and train chaos. And boy, am I glad I got more time here!

I was thankfully able to pick up my laundry (though they never actually washed it and I had to make other arrangements to do so with my new hotel). I was then able to travel to an overlook of the city, where there is a statue of Jesus overlooking the city (though it is very small compared to how I hope and imagine Christ the Redeemer to be). At this overlook, there were also some cute farms and a few well-decorated crosses, as I previously explained is done in Peru. I then traveled to the main plaza, where I visited a Jesuit church, the Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin (aka the Cusco Cathedral), as well as a number of shops. Within Cusco as a whole, I approximate that I visited 7 churches, which is a lot considering how small this city truly is. While exploring these churches, I was able to see some small collections and an exhibit on the Jesuit influence in the area, specifically with Quispicanchi and Andean culture.

I ended the Peruvian leg of my Magellan with the most informative tour I could have asked for at the Cathedral, in which the tour guide enthusiastically answered my excess of questions. Here are a few things I learned about the Basilica Cathedral and Catholicism as is practiced in Peru/expressed in Peruvian art, according to my tour guide:

Basilica Cathedral was built where old Inca house of weapons used to be

“Syncretism” = the amalgamation or attempted amalgamation of different religions, cultures, or schools of thought (as was experienced between the Incan people and incoming Spaniards

Slaves put elements of their identities and culture into the art they were ordered to do by Europeans, ex. skirts of Mary were made in triangle shapes in order to pay homage to the Incan mountain god

“Fálico” = Inca clothing on Jesus

Used gold leaf to honor the sun god, the principal god of their ancestors

Sad expressions on Jesus statues due to Spanish imposition on people

Pregnant Mary statues to honor fertility of “Pachamama” (mother earth)

Dominican order with Spaniards imposed forcefully, but different orders were good (ex. Jesuits, who were able to convert through charitable mission work and running schools, not force)

The Jesuits never discriminated against their people, and in fact one married the Inca princess, symbolizing cooperation and trust

Cuy is featured in last supper paintings, as well as other prominent Peruvian foods, like corn and potatoes

Stars were added into in paintings as daughters of the sun god

Judas painted to look like one of the first traitors of their people

Their people made a representation of a puma through the landscape of Cusco: head of puma is Sacsayhuaman (now in ruins), body is plaza, and its tail is river (which flows under church, therefore termed “miracle water”)

Altar is silver in front but pure gold in back to show duality, which was an important concept to the Incan culture (ex. man and woman, day and night)

Incorrect paintings from Inca painters (ex. Mary Magdalene has male qualities) because some Incan painter never studied Christianity

Used cloudy mirrors (vanity bad) to make sun reflect and illuminate altar

Four masses are said every Sunday, and the first is said in traditional Quechua language

Use electric lights after fires from earthquakes moving real candles

Fálica Inca = special cloth (ex. on crosses)

“Andean Baroque” due to Inca elements

Frescas imitate marble (as in ancient Rome)

Placement of decorations were designed strategically (ex. Holy Trinity, ascensions, order of importance)

Side altars are from closed orders, old churches, etc. 

Lord of Miracles is represented by Jesus in purple (patron of Lima, celebrated in October)

In crypts, can find Inca tunnels, which connected all temples in the capital (Cusco), but Spaniards and earthquakes destroyed

Used real hair, nails, and teeth on statues

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Monday, May 27, 2019

Today is the first day that I can say that I’ve officially fallen in love with Peru. I’ve seen this coming for a while now, but it was made certain when I saw Machu Picchu this morning and when I realized that I have only one full day left to admire this gorgeous country firsthand. I have to be completely honest and admit that Peru has never been on my bucket list of places to visit, but when I crafted and drafted my Magellan project and realized that I wanted to study religion, Peru was a no-brainer. Now, after living here for nearly a month and traveling within Peru’s borders, I feel a deep connection to this place and I can barely believe that it was practically by chance that I ended up traveling here. I’ve truly appreciated my Magellan journey thus far, for I feel as if this type of learning meshes well with my learning style. I’ve never been a the best at learning history/social studies in a classroom setting. Yet as a child my family always took vacations and excursions to historical locations within the US (as opposed to visiting theme or amusement parks) and as a result, I was actually better able to learn about and to appreciate those areas of history. Now that I traveled to Machu Picchu, truly the pinnacle experience of my time in Peru, I feel as if I can finally connect the dots on many ancient cultures’ religious lifestyles.

Machu Picchu was breathtaking and certainly one of the most gorgeous places I will ever visit in my life. Yes, I took enough pictures to look back upon and to use to showcase the religious aspects of this area, but after a while I put my phone away and just tried to soak in the sights and truly appreciate its beauty, because I doubt I’ll ever see it again.

I had a fabulous tour guide, who so graciously took pictures of me and let me take notes during his explanations. He told me about so much and gladly focused on religious talking points so as to help me learn about my interests. Some of my favorite points were:

Two windows in the Sun Temple face East and the Sun Gate faces an abnormal mountain, Huayna Picchu (which reminded me of Tambo Colorado)

Other windows were places to perfectly view the Winter and Summer Solstices

An offering rock in the cylinder Sun Temple covers a tomb for bodies of ceremonial practices

The main temple faces a mountain, so they placed offerings and idols for the mountain god

The Incan people viewed the universe in three distinct sections: the heavens, the world, and the ground

There is a spot within Machu Picchu where these ancient people used water in a dip in the ground to create a mirror of the sky in order to view the sun and the stars, which were also worshipped as gods

The Condor Temple, which resembles that creature, was named as such because they believed this it brings the spirits of souls to the next life using its wings (which are visible in the structure in addition to its head and body)

Coca leaves can still be found there today, and were used in ancient times as offerings by being placed in cave-like structures

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Sunday, May 26, 2019

Today was equally stressful and exciting. My week started by having a conversation with the hotel receptionist in hopes of getting some of my dirty clothing laundered prior to leaving for Aguas Calientes (the small town next to Machu Picchu). Then I headed to the Cusco Selina hotel a few blocks away, where I was fortunately able to store my suitcase in anticipation of my return from Aguas Calientes very late tomorrow night. Inca Rail’s website states that passengers may only bring a light backpack or other small item (no suitcases), which was both a challenge to pack and a relief to carry. I then visited the nearby church which was―you guessed it―Catholic. This one was named for Saint Francis of Assisi. Unlike other churches I have seen so far in Peru, all of the Cusco churches have at least one large cross directly outside. Standing at approximately 8 feet (but I’m poor at estimating, so don’t quote me on that), these beautiful crosses are positioned directly alongside the churches, usually near doorways, and are garbed in expensive-looking fabrics which are usually satin, beaded, and/or embroidered with golden thread. I am not sure of the name of these crosses as of this moment, especially since I only just recently noticed them upon my arrival in Cusco last night, but I intend on identifying their official name (if there is one) and purpose (if there is one besides for aesthetic reasons). I didn’t see any locals kissing or touching said crosses, which was surprising as that was such a prominent behavior of the residents of Lima. Going to this church made me eager to explore Cusco more upon my return and it also made me disappointed, again due to my lack of time to thoroughly experience the unexpected wonders of Cusco.

This church of St. Francis was adjacent to a small plaza, which was adorned in beautiful beds of blooming flowers. I met a traditionally yet extravagantly dressed local there with her super cute baby alpaca, with whom I was able to get photos. After this, I headed to the Inca Rail office, where I had to wait for nearly two full hours to finalize my tickets to and from Aguas Calientes, but luckily was able to “exchange” my old tickets to help cover the cost of the correct tickets. I met two very interesting men from Wisconsin at this office and we had such a good conversation that the time wasted in said office, away from the beautiful sights of Cusco, was actually bearable. I also met a local little girl, who I’d guess was about three or four years old, and after I made enough silly faces at her, she came to trust me and we had a conversation (in Spanish). Her soft voice and tendency to cling to her mother’s legs was so adorable and also made it difficult to always understand what she was trying to tell me. Nonetheless, I feel honored that a girl in a multicolored rhinestone-bedazzled hat with a animal backpack gave me any attention at all… if I could pull off that look I’d be running the world with little time for disheveled foreigners.

Unfortunately, I was unable to secure a ride on the Inca Rail bus from Cusco to their Ollantaytambo train station, so instead I took a smaller bus from a local station for only ten Soles! The driver/workers were pushy and the area was somewhat sketchy, I admit, but this endeavor led to one of my absolute favorite afternoons of this trip. The drive from Cusco to Ollantaytambo was breathtaking. I understand that the sun was bright and that some people make this commute on a daily basis, but I simply could not understand why anyone closed the curtains, blocking their view of this journey. Not only is the sky a gorgeous light blue in this area of Peru (unlike foggy, white-skied coastal regions), but the hills were painted a rich golden hue and bursting with fields of crops as well as bushes and plants of deep green. Not many trees grew in these areas, so every bend and edge of this landscape was defined, shaded, and beautiful to for the eye to drink. An hour or so into the bus ride, we were still surrounded by these lush hills, but the mountains were also in our midst. I regret to admit that I am unable to describe just how breathtaking this landscape was and, especially since I was behind glass in a moving vehicle, none of my photographs do it justice, either. I am extraordinarily jealous of the residents of the many, small communities which are scattered within these valleys. This experience also made me understand why so many people in Peru are religious. There was simply no way to gaze up at those magnificent mountains without speechless praise for our spectacular God and Creator.

When I arrived in Ollantaytambo, I tried cuy (guinea pig) for the first time! It was delicious, but difficult to navigate, for I am unfamiliar with where the meat is vs where the bones are within a guinea pig. The skin is also very thick and hard to cut through, but the owners’ dog and I enjoyed this treat all the same.

While I waited in line to board my train, I commented on a fellow passenger’s Georgia Tech shirt, saying that Georgia Tech is my sister Anne Marie’s alma mater, my college sports team of choice, and THWg. It turns out that her mother, who was also there, graduated from Georgia Tech and is now a nuclear engineer. We all had a nice conversation up until boarding time.

The train ride had many views just as beautiful as those of the bus ride, and yet again the photos or any of my descriptions could not do them justice. These angles were closer to and below the mountains. The sun was also setting during our ride, so its resplendent beams hit the snow-capped mountains in clever ways. There was also a medium width, rocky stream on the opposite side of the train from me. I sat with a group of professional fighters who reside in California, where one owns a gym and they practice MMA, but very frequently travel to perform fighting shows within Texas, Arizona, Mexico, and all across the globe yet aimed at the Latina community. We had these delicious cookies and the most perfect coffee I have ever had (or maybe I felt that way because I hadn’t had any in nearly a month).

We arrived in Aguas Calientes, which is lively, built on a hill, and very different than I had pictured in my head. The sky was pitch black at that point, so one could barely make out that we are surrounded by towering mountains every which way. The sensation of this discovery and at their ability to hide so well was both creepy and thrilling. Water runs directly through Aguas Calientes (who would have guessed?), so a couple beautiful bridges connect the two sides in a pleasing and romantic manner. The main plaza contains a Catholic church, which also had one of those crosses extravagantly draped with decorative cloth. I was able to check into my hotel (Golden House) and then I got my Machu Picchu admission ticket printed at the local cultural center (I forget the exact name), where I made friends with a worker who was impressed that we carried a full conversation in Spanish after I began said conversation in apology for my mediocre skill at understanding it in conversation. I walked outside for a bit only to realize that I had more questions, so I returned to the center, where I was met with an “Oh, Lucía!” and a laugh from the man working there.

I was also able to purchase the ticket for my bus to Machu Picchu for tomorrow, then I explored in order to check out shops and to find the hours of operation for the hot springs in anticipation of tomorrow. I ended the night by trying alpaca with vegetables and quinoa in a creamy sauce. Alpaca basically tastes like good sirloin steak. And I made sure to tell this to my dear friend Jillian, who is Pennsylvania’s 2019 Alpaca Princess. The more you know.

I was excited to get a shower after last night’s sad excuse for a bathroom/plumbing, yet upon twisting the water knob, it came off and water gushed out in its absence. Luckily, I was able to use the bathroom of a nearby room, or I’d look like Yzma from The Emperor’s New Groove in all of my Machu Picchu photos tomorrow.

[luseizestheday-blog]

Friday, May 24, 2019

For the past two days, I have been utilizing PeruHop, which is a very cheap way to see many areas of this dynamic country. Just when I thought I had the best day of my Magellan on Wednesday, today swept away all competition. I got on the bus extremely early in Miraflores and we spent a couple hours picking up other travelers at their various stops around the city. Then we drove approximately three hours to Tambo Colorado, an Inca settlement in Pisco Valley which is nearly as well-preserved as Huaca Pucllana and the best preserved adobe ruins on the coast of Peru. Like Huaca Pucllana, this was another major destination which I was excited to explore to learn about ancient cultures and spiritual rituals of the area. Therefore, I found many similarities between these two locations. Both include different platforms (levels of the pyramid or stage-like areas) for priests or important individuals to communicate with the masses and to perform sacrifices. Both had strategic placement of living quarters for high priests or important individuals (usually in high locations) and made religion integral with living space. Even after 500 years, Tambo Colorado has retained colors on patches of wall, hence its name. I thought that it was interesting that this structure faced the East, which was done on purpose in harmony with the rising of the sun, since the Inca culture centered itself around nature. For this very reason, they also tried to understand the environment on which they depended upon (and in a sense worshipped), causing them to view exceptions to the ordinary as powerful and special. For instance, a huge, dark hill was the focal point of Tambo Colorado, for it was abnormal compared to its neighbors and they hoped it would reveal powers such as telling the future. This reminded me of the Shark God that the people of Huaca Pucllana worshipped, hence their close proximity to the sea. After touring Tambo Colorado and its small museum, we continued directly to the ocean’s edge in the small town of Paracas, where we spent the night (after I biked, of course!).

Today was my birthday, so I did some exciting yet educational excursions, for instance spending my morning on a boat in the Pacific Ocean (which I finally got to touch!) to visit the Ballestas Islands, which house hundreds of thousands of birds of many breeds, as well as crabs and sea lions. This was my first time seeing sea lions and penguins in their natural habitats, which my inner biologist truly appreciated. After Paracas, we hopped back onto the bus and drove to Huacachina, which is in the desert. There, we learned how to “surf” on the sand after some high-speed sand dune buggying (talk about an adrenaline rush!). Not only were these great ways to meet other tourists from around the world, it was also a nice two-day break from micromanaging my own trip down to the minute; I was finally at ease and could relax from being overwhelmed and cautious at all times. (Plus I got to watch part of “Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part I” in Spanish and they played “Mrs. Doubtfire” on the way back, so I had a great birthday!)

[luseizestheday-blog]

Wednesday, May 22, 2019

I don’t know if I am reacting poorly to the ceviche or if the long, muggy days are getting the best of me, but I was actually sick on Tuesday, much to my dismay. Serves me right for over-exerting myself on Monday, I suppose. I am trying to stay optimistic about missing one full day by reminding myself that I needed that recovery in order to be stable for today’s adventures (which may have been my favorite thus far).

As we planned during the Spring semester while I was planning this Magellan, Professor Alpañés and I met this morning so I could join her JayTerm class for the day. It was so nice to spend time with familiar, fluent English-speakers from back home.

I finally built on by pre-departure research relating to ancient Peruvian religious/spiritual practices when we visited Huaca Pucllana, which was built around 650 AD for ceremonial practices and adapted throughout history to become a cemetery and then a settlement and offering/ritual site for the Yschma culture. Today, it very much resembles the base of a pyramid. It has lasted for so many years because Lima rarely experiences rain (hence the odd yet constantly white sky). There was a one-room museum at the entrance and then we toured the site, which was also filled with descriptions, tour guides, and re-created supposed scenes of the past for simplified visualization.

Then, we walked a hefty distance to the seaside cliff. Although I wanted to put my toes in the Pacific Ocean for the first time in my life, Lima has not been the place because it doesn’t really have a beach as much as a  rocky edge leading to treacherous waters. We saw the lighthouse which I have been looking to find, as well as the Parque del Amor.

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Monday, May 20, 2019

I absolutely LOVE Miraflores. It is full of young, artistic people and businesses, which makes me feel like I am back in Pittsburgh at times. I have been loving going to mass in Peru in general, but especially here in Miraflores. Not only have the Spanish masses helped with my language skills, but I also feel more prepared for the regular Spanish masses which I will be attending during my semester abroad in Spain this fall. Although I am not homesick, I was touched when we sang “Lord You Have Come to the Seashore,” which I frequently sing back at home, in Spanish. Since they don’t use hymnals at the church I went to, I sang what I could in Spanish but then switched to English, which to my surprise was met with smiles and amazement by the locals around me. This mass service was particularly packed and I was so happy to see so many people from so many walks of life join together. Yet again, many young people were present, including what looked like an entire group of middle school-aged children. Unfortunately, I started to feel sick right after dinner on Sunday though, so I didn’t get quite as much exploring done as I had hoped.

Luckily, I made up for this lack of adventure by making today my fullest day thus far. I visited nearly 20 churches, the Cathedral of Lima (and its crypt), and the Archbishop’s Palace (which has the most extensive religious collection I have ever seen). I definitely noticed patterns in the church architecture styles and interior decorations. Seeing as these are churches, many did not allow photographs (even without flash), but I did my best to get good pictures otherwise and to add to my ongoing notes about my observations and the descriptions written to aid visitors through the displays/shrines.

[luseizestheday-blog]

Saturday, May 18, 2019

Tonight I am staying in Miraflores for the first time, though I have previously passed through this area. I still intend on traveling back to historic Lima to round out my experience there, too. Since I last checked in, I have become very familiar with Lima. Not only have I gotten adventurous with foods, I also have done some interesting things that I either found spur of the moment or that Professor Alpañés suggested to me during the semester, like doing a tour/interactive workshop at the Museum of Chocolate. I am extremely grateful that she suggested I do this tour specifically, because not only did it include lots of chocolate consumption, it also reminded me of the Hershey’s Chocolate World Tour back home that I have memorized. (Back in high school, I even wrote a considerably extensive research paper on Milton Hershey and his chocolate-making process.) Therefore, this was a full-circle experience.

I have also made a point to focus on finding street art relating to religion as well as religious objects showcased by locals in their cars, around their houses, or in public spaces. For instance, in the past week, a majority of my Uber drivers had a religious symbol (all Catholic) on their rear-view mirror or dashboard. Even my “hotels” have religious artwork hanging on walls or set up in scenes on countertops. My favorite mural to date is a very detailed painting of “Señor de la Misericordia” which I briefly passed (and luckily snagged a photo of) on my way to my hotel on Thursday!

Even though I am in a very safe and beautiful area at the moment, I am constantly reminded of just how rough it can be on a daily basis for locals. The public transportation system is chaotic and dozens upon dozens of hot, sweaty individuals will cram into very beat-up buses that I am scared to even approach. I pass homeless people regularly and am constantly told by strangers to hold onto my purse and to stop taking photos in order to keep my phone out of sight because they fear for me and know that I am a target. Many nights my lights have cut out and all electricity is lost for reasons unbeknownst to me. This is the first time in my life that I have visited third-world areas. Although I know that it is way more developed here than many other areas within Peru or the world, I am still in constant prayer for the people here and for thanksgiving of the many blessings we often take for granted in America.

[luseizestheday-blog]

Wednesday, May 15, 2019

I have yet to hear anything about my luggage, but I had an amazing day nonetheless. I was very tired from my long journey to get here, so I slept in a little before exploring the streets of Lima’s historic district. My hotel is very small and not at all what we would consider a hotel back in the US. It is more like a small, private hostel in my opinion, but I have a great location and running water, so I am extremely happy! I went to get arroz con leche (my favorite) and I met a local who spent some time in the US and serving in our military! It was really nice to talk to someone familiar with home and to have his advice on how best to stay safe in this area.

I happened upon the Basilica del Santisimo Rosario (Convento de Santo Domingo de Lima)... my first church of the journey! I could immediately spot major differences from our churches in the US. Its interior was decorated in a comparatively flashy yet beautiful style, with neon green paint, more statues, and loads of flowers. I was surprised to see that the statues did not differ in looks from ours in the US, especially since I have seen that other countries’ Catholic religious statues have a unique garments and features. Not until later in the day after more churches did I start to recognize the differences for Peru.

I tried Inca Kola for the first (and probably last) time today. I didn’t know anything about this drink before arriving in Peru, but after seeing more billboards than I can count and looking it up, I quickly realized how prevalent it is down here. My best comparison is that Inca Kola is to Lima, Peru as Coca Cola is to Atlanta, Georgia. It had a sickly sweet taste, but was good nonetheless to try.

I got to walk outside the Archbishop’s Palace, the Basilica and Convent of San Pedro, the Cathedral of Lima, and the Basilica, Convent, and Museum of San Francisco. I am hoping to learn my way around here since the mission of Canto Grande cancelled on me at the last minute and I will therefore be spending more time here in Lima.

As I get older, I realize that many things I learned in school have exceptions rather than being flat out rules; not everything is as black-and-white as the romanticized textbooks let on. My childhood amazement of Lewis and Clark was ravaged when I realized that an entire group accompanied them on their adventure out West, and not literally just Lewis and Clark. There are so many exceptions to the “i before e…” rule (weird, right?). But as sure as the sun will rise there is a plaza in every city in Spanish speaking countries; this will never let me down. ;)

The Plaza Mayor of Lima has to be my favorite spot here thus far. Although it is relatively chilly compared to usual temperatures here (since it is not summer), the palm trees are still beautiful and the pastel yellow buildings still make me feel like I am in the middle of a comforting sun. I was surprised, though, to see that the churches down here are just as (if not more) prominent than the governmental buildings within the plaza. Their riches, history, and comforts offered to the community are truly treasured and utilized by the residents. Every church I explored had a multitude of people quietly praying at all times. Even young people who don’t necessarily dress as conservatively as most people expect for Catholic churches walk in freely like it is home. This is so different from back home, where I feel as if churches are not truly 24/7 places and are more heavily filled for mass times. Here in Lima, though, people seem so at ease walking into churches, which I love.

I will include pictures to showcase everything I just wrote about and more rather than writing a novel about every little detail (...I’m exhausted and want to be prepared for tomorrow).

[luseizestheday-blog]

South America... it’s like America, but South.

[luseizestheday-blog]

Tuesday, May 14, 2019

I just arrived in Peru.

What?! That sentence seems so unreal to write, and yet the smells, sounds, and sights of Lima, Peru are definitely overwhelming my senses (in the best sort of way). I can’t quite say that my first steps off the plane were exactly like Dorothy’s magical first steps into gorgeous Munchkinland in The Wizard of Oz. For starters, it is winter here and therefore uncomfortably chilly, the airline lost my luggage, my taxi drove through the most poverty-stricken streets I have ever seen in my life, and I am yearning for a shower since my departure was delayed for over 24 hours (wasting a day of my Magellan) and I therefore slept in the Miami airport last night. Yet I expect that I feel just as (if not more) grateful than Dorothy to have stepped into my very own Oz—this unfamiliar land of dream-come-true adventure called “South America.”