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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
38. The equipment and planning
A very large part of undertaking any long through hike is the planning, equipment and logistics that take place in the months before hand, and the distance and remoteness of the Heysen Trail make this even more important.
In the months before I spent a lot of time watching videos and reading blogs from other hikers to get as much information as I could on equipment, the route, food planning and trail conditions. It was all useful, and I would recommend the very detailed planning guides from Elisha Donkin beyondwildplaces.com and Josh West www.trekkingwest.com who both provide excellent information to support the planning process.
I developed a detailed itinerary of my walk, with food drops, daily distances, contact information etc. While things changed routinely, it was great for me and family to have that original plan.
The food planning was complicated, and I settled on the following formulae: 900 grams of food per day, breakfast of oats (made up in one serve packages with milk and protein powder at home, lunch of spread (peanut butter/hazelnut spread) with wraps or biscuits, dinner of store bought dehydrated meals with Deb instant mashed potato. This then had to be packed in to 6 food parcels, and posted to towns on a 6 to 7 days cycle on my route. I had them addressed to the places I was staying at on my rest days and without fail they arrived and were ready for me on arrival.
I also put a lot of time and effort (and money) in to getting the right gear. While I already had some great camping equipment, much of it was for motorcycle camping and was too heavy or too big for a long through hike. I was very happy with the gear I finally took with me - everything I needed, and nothing I didn't. These are the key pieces of equipment I took:
Pack & hike
Osprey Atmos LT 65L - a great robust pack, reasonably light weight and with the space and flexibility needed for a long through hike. The waist harness and side pockets were great, but caused some rubbing on my legs when the pack was at its fullest.
Osprey Airporter duffel - essential for getting my pack and assorted gear to Adelaide and back from Hobart.
Trekking poles Black Diamond Distance FLZ 125cm - absolutely essential for making the trek, in terms of safety and endurance. I bought the aluminum ones rather than carbon fiber, and given the battering they took in the Flinders I am very glad I did. Loved these poles.
Aluxe Lightweight short Gaiters - wore these a few times on very rainy and muddy days, but not essential. Luckily very small and lightweight.
Sleeping
Sea to Summit Spark 2 Sleeping bag - great sleeping bag, small and very lightweight, and just warm enough (I sleep very hot) with my thermals and socks.
Alton Insulated Sleeping Mat, with Alton sleeping mat fitted sheet - while this was a heavier combination, it was very robust and very warm, and made for many nights of great sleep in the tent and huts.
Alton Lightweight Insulated Pillow - I had this posted to me in week 2, after my older Sea to Summit ultralight Pillow failed. The Alton one was way better in shape and warmth, for very little extra weight.
Mountain Designs merino thermals - I kept these just for sleeping, and it meant that every night I got in to my bed in (relatively) clean, and very warm, clothes. They were also an emergency backup in case i get wet or it became very cold during the walk.
Sleep socks - a great and necessary asset on those cold Flinders Ranges desert nights.
Flex tail pump light - this is a fantastic little pump for my sleeping mat abd pillow (it means no moisture in your mattress) and was a terrific night light for my tent and the huts. I used this a lot and the battery never ran out through normal use. The only thing was that when I packed my pack tight, it sometimes turned the pump on, so I improvised and stored in in an empty peanut butter jar - problem solved!
Water
Supermarket 1.25litre water bottle and Nalgene 1litre Water bottle - I decided that 2.25 liters would be enough for daily carry, with carefully planned water points every day; and it worked very well. The very light 1.25 liter bottle survived the whole trip, and the Nalgene bottle was taken for sentimental reasons - it had been my water bottle on a couple of Antarctic trips.
Sawyer Squeeze Water Filter - essential and a great product. I sued this every day to gravity filter my water, putting through at least 4 liters a day. I did need to reverse flush it a few times, as some of the water is a bit murky. Very happy with this purchase.
CNOC water bag - the only problem with the Sawyer filter is the water bags it comes with are cheap and have a reputation for breaking. The CNOC bag was very robust, and did great service.
Hydrolyte - I had this every lunchtime and it was great for flagging energy, and nice to drink something other than plain water.
Tent
MSR Hubba Hubba 2 V9 - what a great tent! I have several tents and only bought this at the last minute, on the recommendation of son David. It was very lightweight, incredibly roomy and easy to put up and take down. Why 2 person? At my age, the extra room to move around, pack up, stretch out and turn around was an essential luxury. It was an expensive purchase, but I never regretted it.
Ground sheet - essential to protect the floor of your expensive with the hard ground of the Flinders
Seat pad/cushion - a very inexpensive and lightweight asset that gave me somewhere soft and dry to sit. Bought from AliExpress for $4.00 and never let me down.
Clothes
MacPac Long pants and Ex Officiou LS hiking shirt - my daily walking gear with great sun protection, cool enough on the hot days and warm enough on the cool ones. They were very robust and in spite of a few falls, not rips or tears.
MacPac Prophet lightweight rain shell - I didn't need this much, but it was great on those cold and windy days.
Merrill MOAB 3 Mid GTX boots - These were good boots, easy to get used to and did the job for the first few hundred kilometers. I don't think they were tough enough for this hike and by the 500km mark the waterproofing failed and I had very wet feet when walking through the early morning dew in the long grass. I would look for something stronger next time.
Tilley Hat - essential and very comfortable.
Icebreaker Merino beanie - perfect on those cold mornings
Insulated Gloves - good on the cold mornings, but much more important for collecting and breaking firewood.
OR Sun gloves - I wore these every day for the walk, and loved them. They protected my hands from the sun, and from the constant use of the walking poles.
Socks (Wright socks) x2 - these were OK, but did not meet their promise of 'no blisters', and were very slow to dry.
Underwear x 2 - just enough!
Icebreaker SS T shirt and Lightweight shorts - my rest day gear while my other clothes were washing and drying (note that the shorts had built in underwear!)
Smart wool LS T shirt - another essential for those cold morning starts, setting up camp and cooler rest days. Anything wool was quick drying, odor resistant and hard wearing.
Kathmandu Lightweight Puffer jacket - this was another great item for cold mornings and rest days at the pub. Very lightweight and packs small in to its own pocket.
Macpac lightweight Fleece - lightweight, robust and very welcome on the cold days. I was able to layer this with the LS T shirt and puffer jacket.
Thongs/camp shoes - very important to get your feet dry and aired, I put these on every day when I stopped walking and wore them on my rest days as I wandered the small towns.
Cooking
Jetboil Flash - this was a great cooking system that suited my approach - only used to boil water for tea, coffee or to rehydrate meals. Super quick and efficient, it reduced my gas use and packs in to itself. Never let me down, even in cold and windy conditions.
Cigarette lighter - a back up for the Jetboil igniter and for the stoves and fireplaces along the way.
Gas canisters - because you cant fly with, or post these cannisters, I had someone pick them up in Adelaide and then I dropped them off at key locations as I travelled to Parachilna. I was able to buy more gas at Burra.
Titanium spork - good for eating rehydrated meals, but you also need a knife to spread peanut butter. Lucky I found a plastic one at one of the huts early on my walk!
Sea to Summit X Mug - small, easy to hold and big enough for my large morning coffee.
Trash bag - essential. I got tired of picking up other people's rubbish at the huts.
Technology
Nitecore 20000 Carbon mil amp - this is a terrific small, light and very capable power pack that met all my power needs and never ran out. Highly recommended.
Cables, charger - I took a charger plug that had both USB types on it - very useful for those rest days when everything got a recharge.
iPhone 14 - linked to my Zoleo, access to the FarOut app, and lots of calls to family when in range. Great battery life in low power mode and a very good camera.
Quadlock tripod/selfie stick - this was a lasty minute purchase and fantastic for making the regular videos that I sent to family, and for those frequent selfies.
PLB - Zoleo - this was my PLB, satellite messenger and regular check in device, and I loved it. I wore it on my chest the whole time, so that if I fell down a cliff it would still be 'at hand'. I was able to send Antoinette a check in message every night, and send 800+ character messages to family members, regardless how remote I was. it gave me a robust emergency device, with great battery life, as well as a reliable way to stay in touch with family.
First aid and Medications
This is a very personal thing and will depend on your own needs and concerns, however I was happy with what I took and it kept me healthy and safe:
Sun screen, hand sanitiser, Elastoplast Band aids, Blister pads, Snake bandage, gauze bandage, Gauze pads, Surgical tape, Antiseptic cream, Pain killers, Space blanket, muscle/joint pain relief ointment, Prescriptions
Miscellaneous
As well as all of this technical equipment, there was a lot of other small stuff that will depend on your own requirements. I took:
Mini towel - for the daily wash, and were I couldn't get a caravan/hotel towel
Toilet paper - most of the huts don't have any.
Sewing kit - I mostly used mine for draining blisters!
Notebook and pen - very important to keep a journal, as it's so easy to forget the small things.
Sun glasses and reading glasses
Ear plugs - for the snoring in the huts.
Repair tape - essential for those tears in clothing, tents and sleeping bags
Leatherman Skeleton Multi tool - much more functional than just a big knife, and very lightweight.
Black Diamond Head lamp - on lean from son David, and one of the most useful things I took. I loved the quality and battery life and must get one myself.
Para cord 7 meters - clothes line, rescue line, pack lowering line.
Sea to Summit Dry sacks - used instead of a pack liner and very helpful in organising my gear for easy access.
Titanium Trowel - do bears shit in the woods? if so, they need to dig a hole and bury it, and this little trowel was the perfect solution.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
37. Adelaide to Hobart
I had a very pleasant few days in Adelaide, courtesy of our good friends Ed, Faye and Francis, with a chance to get in to a change of clothes, eat in restaurants and sleep in a real bed. It seemed somewhat surreal, to be suddenly going from 6 weeks of exertion, solitude and nature to the company of many and the pace and noise of a city; but wonderful to be with friends and heading home.
It was even better to be back with Antoinette in Hobart, and to the comforts of home. If nothing else, the trip made me realise just how wonderful my life is at home with my wonderful wife.
I miss the walk. The focus on small things that suddenly become very important - food, water and shelter. The planning and monitoring of route, meals, campsites and logistics. The clear skies, the silence, the weather, the joy of the huts, the brief and fleeting connections with other hikers.
'To stay in places and to leave, to trust, to distrust, to no longer believe and believe again, to care about the landscape, the different winds, the changes of the seasons, to see what happens, to be out on the trail, to sit in the saddle, to watch the weather come, to watch it go, to hear rain on the tent, to know where I can find what I want.' With apologies to Ernest Hemingway
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
36. Cudlee Creek to Norton Summit
I woke to a very cool and damp morning, with Grandpa's Camp in a deep gully, and with no morning sun. In spite of that, it's always good to leave from a hut with a hikers platform, because your gear is dry and clean. This was the start of the Adelaide Hills, and it was quickly clear why it was named that - it seemed that the Trail was all uphill from here.
Most of the walking was on old fire trails, and it was really picturesque. It wandered through state forest, open hills, pine plantations and farmland. There was no shortage of wildlife, with deer, kangaroos, wombat and koala. The downside was the steepness of the hills; some were near vertical and as the day warmed up, really challenging. Given I was near the end, and had no alternatives, I just pushed on and made the most of the landscape.
As I climbed to the top of another hill, I got out the map to see how far it was to Norton Summit, and realised that I had arrived! I was, once gain, earlier than I expected, but very happy to have arrive at the end point of my walk. I sat in the beer garden, had a much needed beer, called Antoinette, sent messages on my Zoleo satellite communicator, then turned it off, and ordered an Uber to take me to the hotel for the night.
I was now heading back in to civilization.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
35. Rocky Paddock Camp to Cudlee Creek (Grandpa's Camp)
Once again I am ahead of my carefully planned walking schedule, and this of course confirms that old adage of 'no plan survives the first shot'. While much of my logistics was spot on, it was very hard to accurately calculate my daily walking distances from Hobart. Much depends on the on site variables - terrain, weather, pack weight, energy levels and spacing of camp sites.
I had planned to spend the night at Scott's Shelter, but got there at 1000, so decided to push on to Cudlee Creek. It made for a very long days walk, over 35km, so I decided to break the walk by detouring through Kersbrook to have lunch of yiros and chips at the Tavern (I have good phone connectivity to can use Google maps to look for food at nearby towns). One of the problems I have with the Heysen Trail route in this midlands region is its focus on the high terrain, rather than the myriad of small towns. I was also very hungry and peanut butter on wraps for lunch was just not meeting my kilojoule needs!
The walking all day was great and I made it to Cudlee Creek in time for coffee and cheesecake, before pushing on for the last 5km to Granpa's Camp.
This is a very strange little campsite, and was in quite a mess. The portable toilet was full to overflowing, the tiny cabin was filled with rubbish and kindling, and all of the tent sites were under a complex web of deadfall. I cleaned the hut, burned all of the rubbish and set myself up in the cabin for the night. Another quiet and cold night alone, and I slept well, except for the very loud bullfrogs in the creek. The sounded like a cross between a boar squealing, a bear growling and an angry gorilla - quite the fright the first time, but eventually I got used to them.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
34. Rossiter's Hut to Rocky Paddock Campsite
It was another wet start, and I left in dense fog and low cloud, however it was good and easy walking on forest tracks and fire trails. As always, I was completely alone, except for the kangaroos and bird life.
The weather cleared and I made very good time, arriving early (once again) at my intended night camp, Centennial Drive Camp site, at 1130. It's a great spot, with shelter and fireplace, tank and toilet, but I was far too early to stop. I had booked this through Forestry SA, and while their website cant be accessed from a mobile device, their customer service was great and I was able to change this booking to Rocky Paddock Camp site, another 10km further on. They even suggested campsite #30, well away from the other campers in this large and popular campsite.
This was a great site, walk in only, so with soft ground (easy on the tent pegs) and grass covered tent sites, and with a camp fire. I had a very pleasant and quiet night (probably because the area was patrolled by the SA Forestry fire teams to control both fires and bad behavior).
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
33. Tanunda to Rossiter's Hut
Another great start with breakfast in the cabin and an early departure in to a heavy mist, low cloud and some light rain. I was feeling good, with the energy for another day of walking. It was a really nice walk this morning, through farmlands, conservation areas and forestry pine plantations, and I arrived just after lunch at Rossiter's Hut.
This is a lovely small hut, with fireplace and some small and strangely configured sleeping platforms (you need to be a contortionist to get in and out of bed!). It's on the edge of a large pine plantation, and has a great spot nearby to walk the sunset.
As usual, the hut was not in great condition, so I cleaned, collected firewood, set up for the night and spent the afternoon with my book in front of the fire. As was happening more frequently in the midlands, I had good phone connection, so there was also calls to friends and family.
I am realising more and more that the real joy for me in this walk is the evening set up and routine; whether it's a hut, my tent or a cabin. The chance to make things the way I like them, organise and clean, sort and collect, and then settle in for the evening. I like the solitude, the clarity of thought, the clear skies and stars, and the sound of the wind and rain on the tent or the roof. It's what I was looking for on this trek and I have found in in spades.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
32. Kapunda to Tanunda
The day started off in showers and low cloud, and it was hard to leave my comfortable little cabin. I needed to get out before 0800, as there was another day without power. What luxury to be able to use a kettle to boil water, and a toaster to have toast and peanut butter before leaving!
Walking in the light rain is not a problem, and often I didn't bother with my rain jacket as it was too hot with the exertion of walking and the showers came and went very quickly. Unfortunately, the tracks and roads were often red dirt, which turned to a glass like slipperiness when wet. It was hard going, 'skating' my way along the trail.
I stopped at Greenock Oval for lunch, as this was my planned stopover for the night. It's a great little place; well maintained, great amenities and with lots of protected places to camp.
I pushed on the last pushed on for the last 15m to Tanunda, and was pretty tired on arriving, so headed in to town to get coffee and something for dinner. Its a great town, with lots of shops and restaurants, and with friendly people. The lady at the Apex bakery, once she heard I was on the Heysen trail, would not let me pay for the bread rolls I wanted, and the same happened when I tried to buy sweets at the 'Fruchocs' shop.
Eventually I got to the Discovery Caravan Park about a kilometer out of town, made dinner in my nice little heated, dry cabin and crashed early for a very solid nights sleep.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
31. Marschall's Hut to Kapunda
The extra night at Marschall's Hut brought me back on schedule, and I left early that morning for the walk to Kapunda and a resupply package and formal rest day in the Tourist Park.
The walk was lovely - through wooded road reserves and back laneways, across farming land and vineyards. It was a long walk, about 30km on a warming day, and the last 10km were on exposed roads. By the time I arrived in Kapunda I was hot and a bit dehydrated, and had a bad headache. As usual, a cup of tea, a shower, laundry done and I felt fine. The resupply package, number 6, was the last one to pick up, and marked the start of the end - my final 7 days of walking before Adelaide. As always, it was strangely exciting to pick up and unpack something that I had packed myself a month before.
The Tourist park was great and I had a little ATCO cabin - perfect for my needs. The town is great, and I headed in in shorts and t shirt to go to the bakery, do some shopping to supplement my resupply drop, and book in tot he pub for dinner. I had learnt in the last few towns that a table at the pub is not always guaranteed, so afternoon bookings were essential. The Sir John Franklin Hotel was great (another connection to my polar service and to Tasmania) and my steak was perfect
My rest day was very quiet. I bought another paperback (my pattern was to read these as I travelled, and use the pages I had finished to start my hut stoves and campfires). Unfortunately the Tourist Park had no power from 0800-1700 (I wish they had told me in advance) so I spent most of the day haunting the cafes and bakery in town.
The weather has started to turn, with rain squalls and more forecast for the next 2 days, so rather than camp out the next night I have booked anther cabin at the Tanunda Discovery Park.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
30. Marrabel to Marschall's Hut
I woke to a cold morning and a wet tent, but clear skies and an early start. It was a very pleasant walk (mainly because it was only about 7 km) to Marschall's Hut. I arrived really early, and set about making it my home.
The hut is just beautiful, built on the site of the old homestead and a credit to the Friends and the support from the SA Government. It is set on the side of a hill, next to a small dam, with stunning views over the surrounding fields. It was in reasonable condition, so once i had set out my tent and sleeping bag to dry and air, I set about cleaning up the hut and collecting firewood for me and the following hikers.
I started to have a wash, but noticed a 4WD approaching the hut from below, to find out it was the advance party for a group of 40 Friends on a day hike, coming to the hut for lunch. They were a wonderful group, and were great company after so long alone. They shared their lunch, and left me with fruit, biscuits and sweets as parting gifts. The photo below is from one of their group.
Later in the afternoon I had a visit from James Huppatz, the landowner who owns both Huppatz and Marschall's huts. He was a really nice guy and we chatted about the land, farming and getting old. I really felt I had a visit from Heysen royalty. I mentioned to him how hard it was to get the firewood in to useable pieces, and he returned the next day with a bush saw!
I was enjoying Marschall's Hut so much I decided to stay a second day, and spent a very quiet time enjoying my book, the fire, silence, solitude and the landscape. Medicine for the soul, and just what I needed. The weather stayed great - foggy, cool mornings, and afternoons of sun.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
29. Huppatz Hut to Marrabel
I was still a day ahead of schedule, but decided not to stay a second night at Huppatz. Nice hut, but too many issues.
I left early for Webb's Gap Campsite, because there was reported to be no water at my intended overnight stop at Smith Hill. I got to Webb's Gap, filled my water bottles and an extra bladder, and set off for Smith Hill. Half way there I decided to bypass Smith Hill, dump the extra water (it was bloody heavy) and make for the Rodeo Grounds at Marrabel, where there is another Heysen campsite. It made for a long day's walking, but I was confident that there was water there. This is all farming country and the detour took me through rich and well maintained country and lots of the very typical South Australian stone ruins.
Marrabel is a tiny town, with a massive rodeo grounds, and there is a nice campsite, plenty of bore water and a hikers platform. Unfortunately the toilets are something from the middle ages and required a lot of courage to use! The other thing to watch out for here is the stinging nettles in the grass - very tough when you wander around in the fading light in thongs.
The road traffic stopped at around 2000, the sky was clear and full of stars and I slept well on a cold and wind free night.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
28. Worlds End (Burra Gorge) to Huppatz Hut
The day started as a lovely walk, through mulga scrub and low forest, with the trail always keeping a clever and gradual line as it rose in to the hills. The weather was once again perfect and I was really enjoying the morning.
As often happened, things got more difficult after lunch. The second half of the walk was over baked plowed fields and the usual "walkers follow the fence' challenges. The last 2 km was up a very steep climb, through a construction zone for new wind turbines, and then along a steep descent where the bulldozer on the ridge was pushing couch sized boulders down at me. It was like a game of Donkey Kong, only in real life and not very safe at all.
I finally arrived at Huppatz Hut, a really nice little galvanized shed with fireplace. I collected what little firewood I could, dried out my tent and sleeping bag, and settled in for the night. There is very little useful firewood within reasonable distance of the hut, and like so many of the huts, no axe or saw to cut the larger pieces. This will continue to be a problem at Huppatz.
The hut was a bit neglected, and once again I gathered and burnt all the rubbish, swept and cleaned all of the surface and left what firewood I could for the next hiker. The fireplace does not draw well, so the hut was soon filled with smoke, and I did not keep the fire going long.
It was a surprisingly cold night, and I was quite happy to head off early the next morning.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
27. Burra to Worlds End (Burra Gorge)
After a great few nights sleep at Burra, I left early on a very frosty morning to head for Worlds End.
This was relatively easy walking on dirt roads and following fences over farmland, but a very boring 20 km. At least there were very few hills! I arrived at the Heysen Trail Worlds End campsite at around 1400, but it was a small and very exposed site with no redeeming features. I had been told by another hiker, Jake, that there were much better sites another 1.5km further on at the Burra Gorge public camping grounds. I filled my water and headed off.
He was right, and I found a great campsite on soft ground, well sheltered and not far from the toilets. Note that there was not water there, so I was right to fill up at the Worlds End camp.
I had along conversation and a beer with a couple in a nearby caravans (typical of how friendly people were on this walk) and had a great but very cold night. I woke early to a very wet and frosty tent.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
26. Wandallah Camp to Burra
The walk in to Burra was much the same as the day before - more treeless hills and more up and down. I arrived at 1230, and headed straight to my accommodation for the next 2 nights.
I have been to Burra a few times before, and it's a great little town. I stayed at the Paxton Square Cottages and they are really great; well located, good quality and very comfortable. Unfortunately the caretakers are a bit abrupt, and I was told that check in was at 1400 and ' not to come back before then'. So off to a cafe for lunch, all a bit hot and sweaty, but in no rush and willing to wait. I came back at 1400, got my resupply package, showered, did my washing and then went shopping. I even got a haircut! I ate a great meal at the Burra Hotel that night, the only place open in the town.
The next day was cold and rainy, but I spent it with my book, in the cafes and shops, and cleaning gear, route planning and buying more food (and that essential, gas).
At dinner that night at the Hotel I shared a table with Brian and Mary from Euroa. They were lovely people who made me promise that I would send them a message when I arrived safely at Adelaide.
This is a lovely town and I really enjoyed my time here. My pack is once again very full and heavy, with 6 days food, a large gas cylinder, and other 'extras'. Trust me, it's worth the effort to have the food you want!
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
25. Black Jack Shelter to Wandallah Camp site
The day started well, with a really nice walk through mulga scrub on an old 4WD track. Easy walking, clear skies and lots of wildlife.
Unfortunately this didn't last, and the walk changed to an endless 'Walkers follow the Fence' over treeless hills and rocky ground. The constant up and down, over steep hills and treeless fields was taxing on the mind and body, especially with the fence running up and down in to the endless distance.
About 18 km later I arrived at a small cluster of tress, with a shelter and tank under construction - Wandallah. It doesn't look like any work has been done recently, but very luckily some good person has been filling the water tank, so I had water, a toilet and a hikers platform - everything I needed!
i arrived early enough to head in to Burra, but decided that the site was pleasant and protected, and I didn't need to rush.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
24. Mt Bryant East Old School to Black Jack Shelter
It was hard to leave the Old School this morning and head out in to the cold, wind and rain squalls. This was probably the first time I had felt lonely, striding off down the dirt road in to the storm. The wind was very tough and in the end I took some detours that kept me off the trail, but on the lower slopes away from the exposed ridgelines. Hard walking, especially on the red and very slippery mud that is so common in that area.
As usual, the weather started to improve, and by midday the sky had cleared and the wind speed had dropped from ridiculous to just uncomfortable. The last 10 km were very pleasant walking and I arrived at Black Jack Shelter at around 1500.
This is a very modern hut, clean and well equipped, with nearby toilet, good water and comfortable kitchen and dining facilities. Now that the sun was out, it was a chance to dry my tent, air my sleeping bag, and get naked outside and have a wash.
Fortunately I had just got dressed when group of day hikers passed by - keen for a chat and to see the hut. They would have seen more than the hut if they had been 20 minutes earlier.
The weather kept improving, and the forecast were great for the next week.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
23. Hallet to Mt Bryant East Old School
The weather was very bad overnight, and while we all slept warm and dry, we woke to a cold (2 degrees C), wet and very windy morning. There were low clouds all around and Mt Bryant was shrouded in clouds and rain. Stefan and Cathy felt the climb over Mt Bryant would not be safe (one of their friends was injured climbing the mountain in similar conditions) and encouraged me to take an offered lift to the other side of the mountain. I accepted, and the bitter cold and rain on the mountain's foothills when I arrived made me think it was a good decision.
As a result I arrived at the Old School early, and settled in for the rest of the day. There was almost no firewood, so much of the afternoon was scavenging whatever wood I could find around the school, on the road and and in surrounding fields. The buildings were also full of rubbish (they are accessible by car and apparently often used by car campers and 4WD people), so I spent a lot of time cleaning up and burning any combustible rubbish.
It remained cold and stormy all day, and was probably the worst weather I had seen on the trail. I got the fire going early, and once I had enough wood did not venture out for the remainder of the day.
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The Heysen trail - Parachilna to Adelaide July August September 2023.
22. Spalding to Hallet
This region has more wind turbines that I have ever seen, dominating the ridge lines - and I could see why. There is a constant wind, often a headwind, and the open flat plains means it blows without interference. I had planned to stay at Whistling Trig, but decided to leave early, skip that VERY windy site and go straight to Hallet. It was a relatively easy, if long, walk, that took me to the town center for a late lunch at the general store, and then a 1.5km walk back to my overnight stop at the Hallet Railway Station.
On the trail I met a really nice couple, Stefan and Cathy, who were day hiking and also staying 2 nights at the Hallet Railway Station. Still ahead of schedule, and with some incoming bad weather, I also decided to spend two night in this very lovely hikers hut.
The station building is very well looked after, probably by the local shop owner, and has a well equipped kitchen, a great wood stove and very good furniture. I was all settled by 1600, had the fire going and while Stefan and Cathy went to the pub, I stayed in front of the fire and rested.
My second day was very quiet, as the weather was getting progressively worse, so I collected firewood, cleaned the hut and read my book. I went up to Hallet for lunch, but the weather got worse so hurried back to the fire for a quiet evening talking to Stefan and Cathy, sharing stories and food. Outside the weather got even worse!
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