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Blue Katana Swords: Beautiful Choice

If you are a samurai warrior, you might want to consider investing in Blue Katana swords. The katana, as this Japanese sword is called, is considered one of the most famous and respected blade designs. The traditional sword is also a symbol of honor and power.

The blade of the katana is one of the most important parts of the sword. The blade was made out of the thickest part of the metal, so this created the most strength. It has a sharp edge, with a soft inner core, giving it extra strength. 

Blue Samurai Swords

For samurai warriors, the sword needed to be sharp and durable. The sharper the blade, the more effective it would be in battle. Additionally, it is vital that the blade is durable. The more durable the blade, the longer it could last.

Samurai warriors also preferred the blade to be incredibly beautiful. Most blades were decorated with intricate carvings and elaborate styles. Many of these blades were carved using beautiful gems and metals.

This kind of Samurai-produced katana was quite distinctive. Many copies were created using different materials, but they were still generally recognizably the original Blue Katana sword. The blade usually had intricate carvings and no decorations.

Most Samurai warriors wore this sword with pride. While wearing the katana, they had the feeling of being in charge of their lives. They felt as though they were in control of all situations.

In fact, the word "Samurai" actually refers to the fact that the blade of the katana was handed down from generation to generation. This is an essential aspect of the samurai culture. The only way that the samurai can be so much in control of their lives is through the fact that the samurai sword is passed down.

Every Samurai sword was meant to be passed down to a younger son. If a younger son died in battle, it would pass on to another son. If the older son was killed, then the sword would pass down to another son.

A special type of sword was produced to honor samurai warriors. These swords were generally designed to have larger, more ornate designs. This was done to emphasize the warrior status of the samurai.

There were many ways that the samurai could display their bravery and honor. These techniques included wakizashi, or bamboo daggers. These are known as the most versatile weapon used by samurai warriors.

There were other techniques that samurai might use to display their bravery. They could use the double-edged sword, known as the shinai. This was also a very strong weapon, although it was not as large as the katana.

Although the Samurai swords were primarily used to display bravery and honor, these swords were also created for their exceptional quality. These swords were created to be lightweight, and they also had a very attractive design. All of these features combine to make the Blue Katana sword a collector's item.

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Choosing an Authentic Japanese Katana: The Ultimate Buyer's Guide

Face it, you're not getting your hands on an antique pre-Edo sword for less than a lot of money. Also, you don't want one. Unless you are into museum display pieces, then go ahead and spend to your budget's content.

If you are looking to purchase an authentic Japanese katana you are most likely looking for something functional. It's fair to say that when looking for authentic swords you want something in the style of with the qualities of.

Fighting with antiques comes with a laundry list of reasons not to do so. For those that want to train and fight with modern martial clubs, you need a solid weapon that works like an authentic antique but doesn't shatter or cost a fortune.

This guide is for those looking to use the weapons of the past as they are made today.

Authentic Japanese Katana Qualities

One of the other reasons you don't want an antique Japanese katana is that they really don't hold up to modern blades.

As any aficionado knows, the mystique around the katana is one part truth and two parts fluff of the telephone game. The iron in the areas of Japan is of notoriously low quality, which made crafting weapons difficult.

This lead to superior iron smelting and sword crafting techniques. Necessity was, as it often is, the mother of invention.

Modern materials make far better swords but modern materials and ancient techniques make authentic, functional works of beauty. That's what you want, and that's what you'll find here. 

Steel Selection

Finding a steady supply of genuine Tamahagane steel is both impractical and difficult. This was the steel so filled with impurities and problems that it required developing of lamination and folding techniques to create something workable.

For the most authenticity, folded steel of the carbon or spring varieties is possible to craft a grain pattern but folding steel comes with its own set of complications. Any problems in the folding process create gaps, and therefore brittle areas, in the sword.

Your best choice to get a real Japanese katana is to get one made of modern steel (one that the samurai of old would very much kill to have) and see that it's shaped in the traditional ways.

Carbon Steel

Carbon steel offers the cheapest set of strengths to forge a sword with. Using carbon steel (not stainless steel), a smith creates a long-lasting blade that holds an edge and remains strong.

When looking for carbon steel katana, you need something that is 1045 or better. That is carbon steel with 0.45% carbon or better. The more carbon, the keener an edge that can be formed.

Spring Steel

Spring steel takes the advantages of carbon steel and adds a touch of silicon to create a metal that returns to its original shape more easily. 

Spring steel katana can take a beating and still perform well and look good. The most impressive of spring stell, the 9260 can be bent to almost 90-degrees and return to its original shape. 

For beginners learning to make a cut, this can be a valuable starting blade. 

Tool Steel

Tool steel uses tungsten in its alloy. These steels are, as the name suggests, often used in making tools. hammers can be used all day without deforming or chipping.

Tool steel katana make excellent training weapons as they won't nick or warp. 

Blade Shape

The blade shape of a katana owes alto to the forging technique of clay tempering.

Clay tempering creates the pattern on the blade known as Hamon. The variation in hardness created by the clay tempering both creates the beautiful wave patterns along authentic katana but also gives the signature shape.

Because the blade is more rigid than the spine, the sword deforms into a curve to balance the tension. This shape, of course, also provides subtle benefits when cutting as it moves the center of gravity and the cutting surface further along the blade.

A resulting cutting stroke gains more power after the initial contact. This 'bite' of the blade and follow-through from the fulcrum of the blade and the arm of the wielder deliver a lot of power without creating reverb.

Tang

The tang of a real katana goes to the end of the handle. The handle is attached with pins and then wrapped. Cheap knockoffs weld the handle and handguard to the blade and a few inches of tang.

These easily separate with repeated uses, shredding the hangle and leaving your blade unusable. You may not want to take apart the hilt and grip of your sword but it's a solid trait to look for in authentic weapons.

Forging Technique

Traditional Tamahagane iron requires folding and hammering to forge. While the folding isn't necessary with better steel alloys, the hammering is still a necessity of the process. 

A cast or molded blade lacks many of the strengths of an authentic katana. If you've ever seen a cheap imitation blade sold in a catalog or on television, it has probably been cast. These 'blades' don't hold an edge, are easy to bend, and can shatter from impurities in the casting and tempering phases.

The process of monotempering is sometimes used to create katana that are generall okay but not authentic. A good practice or training blade that carries the same weight and shape, but lacks many of the more important characteristics.

Hand hammering, though nice, is not a necessity. Industrial hammers make more even strikes and produce blades faster. 

Find Your Blade

Now that you have a functional understanding of what makes an authentic Japanese katana, you can look for these hallmarks when shopping. Any vaguely sharp bar of iron can be used as a sword, but there's a charm to the real deal.

When shopping for a katana, choose a supplier with a passion for swordcraft and authenticity.

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Handmade Katana | Authentically Forged

An authentic handmade katana, forged by a Japanese swordsmith (Shinken), can quite easily cost upwards of $14,000. A handmade katana forged outwith Japan made using traditional methods will vary from around $300 up to around $2500. So why does it cost so much? What distinguishes an authentic katana from cheap, stainless steel swords available for $50 from your local mall?

This article has been put together to give you an idea of the craftsmanship that goes into an authentic Katana. We’ll also try to dispel a few myths surrounding these swords and make you better informed about hand forged katana.

Handmade Katana: Forging an Authentic Sword

All antique Japanese Katana or any sword that has been made using traditional methods will feature three distinct processes. These processes are folding, laminating and differential hardening, otherwise known as clay tempering, it’s this procedure that creates the distinctive Hamon line.

The question at this point should be, are all of these processes strictly necessary in order to create a battle ready katana? Are modern-day steels enough to do the job by themselves without these time consuming and expensive treatments? After all, modern-day steels function in very high-intensity environments such as vehicles, tools and military applications. Are handmade Katana simply created the way that they are because that’s the way they’ve always been made?

Let’s take a closer look at each of the processes.

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Folded Steel Katana

However, the truth of the matter is that no sword is capable of these claims. Most steel that is destined to become a sword will be folded a maximum of 15 times, that’s if it’s folded at all. This still creates a very notable 32,768 layers.There is a huge amount of misleading and false information about folded steel katana, the sheer rubbish that is spouted by so-called ‘experts’ is overwhelming. Some might make you believe that an authentic katana will be folded over 1,000 times to create a steel that is impervious to almost everything. Not only that, but the sword is sharp enough to slice its way through armor plating and anything else which is unlucky enough to get in its way.

If you’re asking yourself, what do these folds and layers actually do? Are they created for a reason? Nowadays the folding process is largely an aesthetic exercise, doing very little for the resultant swords resilience or capabilities.

In the olden days, the iron ore available to Japanese sword smiths was pretty poor. Not ones to be easily deterred, the Japanese metal workers came up with ingenious methods for taking the various types of poor quality iron and turning them into something a bit better. This was accomplished by heating the iron over a 72 hour period in a specialist furnace name the Tatara. The resulting steel (Tamagahane) could then be shipped to swordsmiths.

However, despite the steel undergoing the extensive heat treatment, it wasn’t pure enough to be made into a Katana. In order to improve the steel further, the swordsmiths would fold the steel multiple times, this folding process would even out and homogenize the carbon. Nowadays, swordsmiths that are not using Tamahagane are unlikely to perform the folding process out of any necessity to even out the steels carbon content. Modern-day steel is far beyond anything available to ancient Japanese swordsmiths, it’s technically and chemically superior in almost every way imaginable, so you can just skip the folding steps unless you want it folded for aesthetic reasons or for the sake of traditional authentic Katana. 

However, the remaining two processes are far more practical and can in the right circumstances lead to a superior sword.

Katana Lamination

Unlike the folding process, which as we’ve already established is largely unnecessary unless it’s for aesthetic reasons, Lamination can and does change the physical properties of a Katana and can result in a superior sword.  There are more than a dozen ways in which Lamination can be performed, with each way having a distinct name, for example, Kobuse and Shoshu Kitae. The visuals below illustrates some of the most popular methods that you’re likely to come across in your search for a sword. 

All the various types of Lamination have one defining feature which ties them together (apart from Maru or Monosteel). They all take steels of varying hardness and fuse them together to create a single piece of steel with the intention of creating a sharp sword that won’t snap.

The exact methods used to achieve this goal differ, however, the general idea is that a hard steel is used for the edge and softer more flexible steel is used to surround this edge. The more complicated the methods used to accomplish this goal, the higher the likelihood that the sword will cost more.

Clay Tempered Katana

So far we’ve established that an authentic handmade Katana will be folded (for aesthetics or traditional reasons) and will be laminated to create a hard yet flexible blade. In order to take the idea of hardened edge and more flexible spine even further, we’ll take a look at the differential hardening/clay tempering method.  At its very core, clay tempering consists of carefully applying a thin layer of wet clay to the edge of the blade, while a thicker layer of clay is applied to the spine of the blade.

The clay is allowed to dry and then the blade is heated to around 750 degrees Celcius, the blade is then immersed in a water or oil bath to rapidly cool it. As the edge of the blade will cool significantly faster (due to the thinner layer of clay) than the spine of the blade, two different steel crystalline structures are produced. The edge will form into a rigid and hard lattice (matensite), while the spine will form a more flexible yet softer spine. 

The resultant blade has a very hard edge that will take and retain any attempts at sharpening, while the rest of the blade will allow the sword to flex without snapping. 

Obviously, a sword possessing all three of the characteristics of an authentic handmade Katana will have taken a significant amount of time to produce and will cost more than a standard sword. You will typically pay in excess of $700 for a sword that has all three procedures performed. 

If you could only choose one process, which is the best one to pick? I think it goes without saying that unless you’re exceptionally keen on the aesthetics of a folded sword, it’s best to rule it out. They add nothing to modern day steel and may, in fact, weaken the overall integrity of the sword, depending on how well they’ve been formed. So, let’s strike folded steel of the list of must-have features in a Katana. 

That leaves us with clary tempering/differential hardening and lamination. So, which is better? In practice, if both have been performed with equal levels of skill, then the end result should be swords that are equally capable. However, without a doubt, differential hardening is the most popular choice available.

Why Clay Tempering?

Clay tempering will produce an effect very similar to lamination, but, it’s also significantly easier to perform and it will also produce a Hamon as part of the process.

Small disclaimer. A handmade Katana that is used for active cutting has one major drawback when compared to monosteel. That is, if used incorrectly, they can take a permanent bend to the blade. When two levels of hardness are present in a steel, any sort of the substantial lateral force can and will cause the blade to become permanently bent out of shape. While a monosteel Katana if heat treated and produced using quality steel, will tend to return to its original shape.

Sadly, it’s often the case that authentic handmade Katana are less capable than cheaper to produce monosteel swords.

At this point, you might be asking yourself, why even bother with a handmade Katana? It’s a great question and well worth exploring.

It’s true that modern swords are fantastic pieces of engineering and are available at a range of prices, you’ll be hard pressed to not find something to suit everyone from the first time cutter through to experienced practitioners. However, they can be somewhat lacking in character. One of the things that makes a handmade Katana so special is that it’s essentially a unique piece of artwork that the product of years of experience by the swordsmith and hundreds of years of cultural influence. It’s a representation of form working hand in hand with a function to produce something truly remarkable

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Tachi vs Katana

The Tachi and Katana are easily two of the most instantly recognizable swords that originated from Japan. Both have a long and interesting history owing their existence the unique feudal period that dominated Japanese culture for generations. The swords were almost exclusively used by the samurai warrior cast. 

The Katana and Tachi are visually very similar, both have a single curved blade and tsuba. It’s easy to understand why some people may mistake one for the other, or even believe that they are both essentially the same sword with a different name. However, there are distinct characteristics that set these two weapons apart which we’ll explore further in this article. 

Which Came First?

The Tachi came into being at least a couple of centuries ahead of the Katana. Academics believe the Tachi was developed at the start of the Koto period, or around 900 AD. While the use of the word ‘Katana’ didn’t appear until around the Kamakura period, or 1185 AD to 1333 AD. It is believed by some that the Katana was an evolution of the Tachi, as it utilises many of the same technologies and forging methods used to produce the Tachi.

The Tachi’s Longer Blade

The Katana has been produced with a stouter blade than what is commonly found with a Tachi. A tachi produced using traditional methods and techniques will have a blade length that will average 29 inches. While a Katana produced during the same period will have a blade that will average 23 inches. This shorter length allowed the Katana to have increased utility and was particularly well suited to hand to hand fighting. A Katana also allows for a faster draw, which can make the difference between life and death.

The Tachi’s More Pronounced Curve

Both the Tachi and Katana are known by their defining feature, which is the curved blade. However, the Tachi has a significantly more pronounced curvature. This characteristic is a quick and easy way to distinguish between the two swords, the Tachi will feature a deeper curve.

The Katana Was Worn Blade Up

Another difference that set the Tachi and Katana apart was how they were worn. Most Japanese swords, or swords produced in other regions around the world, are predominantly worn with the cutting edge facing down. This is certainly true of the Tachi, but not the Katana. A Katana was unique because of how it was worn, which was with the cutting edge facing up. This offered the Samurai some advantages when it came to combat, allowing the sword to be drawn and used to strike in one fluid movement. In a situation where fractions of a second could mean the difference between victory and defeat, a faster draw could prove to be massively advantageous.

How They Were Used

Another key difference that differentiates the Tachi and the Katana is how they were used in battle and the style of fighting they suited. It is believed that Tachi was primarily worn while fighting on horseback, this view is supported by the pronounced curve of the sword as well as the extended length. This design and dimensions allowed for greater reach while on horseback and the curve is well-suited slashing rather than stabbing. The Katana, on the other hand, would primarily be used in close quarters combat while on foot.

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Signed by the Swordsmith

Often the Tachi and Katana were signed on the tang by the swordsmith that forged the sword. However, as the Katana was worn with the edge of the blade facing upwards, the signature would often be reversed. Not all Japanese swords would have been signed by the swordsmith, but if they are, taking a look at the tang is an easy way to distinguish between the two types of sword.

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5160 Steel

5160 steel, also known as AISI 5160 Alloy Spring Steel, is a high carbon and chromium alloy (0.6% carbon content, 0.9% chromium content and 1% manganese content). The steel offers significant levels of toughness, impressive resistance to fatigue and a high degree of ductility. 5160 steel is commonly used within industrial applications and within the automotive industry where robust and heavy duty springs are required.

5160 Steel

Additionally, 5160 steel has been widely adopted by sword and knife manufacturers due to its unique properties. It’s especially well-suited to tools that require a high degree of impact resistance and which need to be capable of taking and keeping an edge through extended use, for example, swords and large knives.

The steel has quickly gained favour amongst katana users and it has repeatedly proven it’s suitability as a functional sword, suitable for iaido or backyard cutting.  5160 steel can be differentially hardened using clay tempering, however, the Hamon produced is difficult to spot due to the increased levels of Chrome present in the alloy.

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Caring for 5160 Steel

Despite the addition of chromium, 5160 steel is prone to rusting in the same way as any other carbon steel. Care must be taken to prevent oxidation of the blade, but this need only take a few minutes each week to achieve.

After each use, be sure to thoroughly wipe the blade clean of any debris, fingerprints or other foreign bodies. 

After every use, wipe the blade clean to ensure all fingerprints are removed, as well as other contaminants. Spend a few minutes every couple of weeks to apply a thin layer of mineral oil or choji oil. If you are required to store your blade for any length of time, then apply a coating of Vaseline or Rennaissance to the blade to create a physical barrier between the elements and the blade of the sword.

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What is a Hamon Line?

In the world of swordsmithing, the Hamon (which literally translates to ‘blade pattern’) is created on Katana as part of the differential hardening process. The Hamon indicates and outlines (yakiba) the hardened edge of the blade (ha). A sword which has been clay tempered, also know as differentially hardened are treated in this way in order to create a harder cutting edge and softer more flexible spine (mune). For example, a blade may be treated in order to create a cutting edge that is 58 HRC while the spine is 40 HRC, which is a substantial difference in hardness.

Differential hardening is achieved by applying a layer of clay to the blade before heating and cooling has been performed. Adding more clay to the spine and less or no clay to the edge will mean the edge will cool much faster than the spine once the blade has been quenched. The speed at which the metal cools creates different crystalline structures within the steel, a faster cool will create a tougher more rigid structure, but a longer cooling process allows for softer more flexible steel to be produced. Creating differences in flexibility and toughness allows for a blade that will remain sharp as well as being flexible enough to take a blow without snapping.

The Hamon line marks the transition between the tougher martensitic steel on the blades cutting edge and the more flexible pearlitic steel that makes up the swords spine. The objective of the process is to create this difference in hardness, the appearance of the Hamon line is only a side effect. However, the aesthetic appeal of the Hamon line should not be underestimated, not only as proof that the blade has undergone the clay tempering process but they are also artistically interesting. The complex patterns created within the Hamon are an appealing point for anyone considering purchasing a Katana.

Many modern Katana reproductions do not have Hamon line achieved through clay tempering process as the swords are produced from already hardened monosteel. Instead, the Hamon line may be reproduced through artificial means such as sandblasting, acid etching and low tech approaches such as wire brushing. Even if a modern day sword contains a genuinely produced Hamon, the effect may be further enhanced by acid etching to further emphasise the difference between the two types of steel.

A real Hamon can normally be identified by inspecting the Hamon line which will contain bright specks called ‘nioi’. The nioi is best viewed by looking along the plane of the blade and it cannot be currently be produced through artificial processes. If viewed through a microscope, the noio will appear as sparkly crystalline martensite grains surrounded by the darker in appearance pearlite.  All the swords we sell have a section that will tell you if the Hamon is artificially produced or the real thing.

History of the Hamon Line

According to the legend of the Hamon, a swordsmith called Amakuni Yasutsuna developed the process of differential hardening during the 8th century AD. The tale goes that when the emperor returned from battle with his soldiers in tow, Yasutsuna noticed that over half of the sword where broken. Amukuni with his son, Amakura, upon examining the broken weapons, vowed to create a weapon that would not break so easily.

Amakuni and Amakura then secluded themselves away for 30 days to work on the problem. When they next appeared, they had produced the legendary curved blade that would eventually evolve into the Katana. During the spring of the following year, another war was upon them. This time when the soldiers returned from battle not a single sword was broken. This feat of engineering carried Amakuni great favour with the emperor.

Even though it’s impossible to collaborate this legend and determine who exactly invented the clay tempering method, blades produced by Yasutsuna and date back to the 8th-century display Hamon lines, suggesting that even if he didn’t pioneer the methodology, he was at the forefront of its adoption.

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How to Clean a Katana

So, you’ve bought or you’re thinking about buying a katana, but perhaps you’re not sure how you should be cleaning it? This guide is here to show you how to care for your Katana correctly, ensuring you don’t end up with unsightly rust all over your beautiful blade.

Things You’ll Need to Clean a Katana

Before we jump into the cleaning process, there are a couple of bits an pieces you’ll need to get started. Some of these you’ll probably have laying around the house already, while others you probably don’t, and others yet you can probably do without or use an alternative.

Choji Oil: this is an oil that is specifically made for use with Japanese swords and prevents rusting by creating a physical barrier to keep moisture and oxygen out. If you can’t get your hands on Choji oil, you can use mineral oil as a substitute.

An Oil Cloth: this is a soft cloth that is used to apply a new layer of oil to the blade of the sword.

Wiping Paper: this a very soft tissue paper which is used to clean residual dust and oil from a katana’s blade. Alternatively, very soft unscented paper towels can be used as a replacement.

Wiping Cloth: you can use the same type of material as used for the oilcloth, it just can’t be the same cloth. You don’t want to be adding oil to be the blade when you’re supposed to be removing it. 

Uchiko Ball: this is a silk ball filled with high quality finely ground stone. It’s used to assist in the cleaning process by binding with the oil.

If you can’t locate these items individually or from your local stores, it’s easy enough to buy the full kit for a small amount of money. The one I use and recommend can be bought here.

How to Clean a Katana

Taking 5 minutes before you start the cleaning process can make things much easier and more efficient. Start by laying out everything you might need so you have them readily available when you need them. Once you start the cleaning process you don’t want to put the Katana down until you’re finished so as to avoid contaminants such as hair, dust, crumbs or anything else.

First, apply a small amount of Choji oil or mineral oil to your oilcloth.

Carefully draw the Katana out of saya, keeping the blade facing upwards and the point away from your body.

Once you’ve successfully removed the Katana from the saya, gently tap the mouth of the Saya against a hard surface such as a table in order to loosen and remove any dirt or debris. Foreign bodies within the Saya can cause scratches and corrosion of the sword's blade.

Set the Saya to the side and pick up the Katana again.

Using the clean wiping cloth, remove the previous coating of oil from the surface of the blade. Wipe blade in one direction, starting from the bottom and working your way up to the tip, ensuring your fingers stay well clear of the edge. Repeat this a few times to remove as much oil as possible. If the blade features a bo-hi, make sure special attention is paid to ensure all old is removed from it as well.

Take the uchiko ball and tape a small amount of powder onto the blade. Begin at the collar of the Katana and tap all the way along to the tip to ensure an even coating of powder, repeat this process for each side of the sword.

Use the wiping paper to remove the powder and remaining oil from the blade using the same technique employed used for the wiping cloth.

Use the oilcloth to apply a thin and even layer of oil to the blade, again using the same motion used in the previous steps. You will only need to apply the oil once and try to avoid contaminating any other parts of the blade with oil.

Taking the oilcloth use the same method in the previous steps by approaching the blade from the back of the sword and apply the oil to the blade. Do this only once and try to avoid getting the oil on any part aside from the blade.

Carefully insert the Katana back into the saya. 

Check out the video below for an easy to follow in an instructional video of the whole process.

Final Thoughts

Buying all the pieces you need individually may cost you more than buying a cleaning kit. For a small expense, you can potentially save the cost of your sword, the last thing you want is for your blade to become rusty or to become stuck to the inside of the saya. Investing a few minutes every couple of weeks will ensure you get a lifetime of use out your blade. If you do need a new sword, check out our collection here.

It perhaps goes without saying, but extreme caution should be taken when cleaning a Katana, they are sharp and where originally designed to cause physical harm, so bear that in mind at all times.

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What is the Length of a Katana?

There is no right or wrong length for a Katana, as a sword's length will ideally match the dimensions of the wielder. However, we can make some generalisations as to what size we might expect the ‘average’ Katana to be.

Katana Measurements

A Katana is traditionally measured from the notch in the habaki to the tip of the sword, this is done in a straight line and doesn’t account for the curvature of the sword, most Katana will be in excess of 2 shaku. A shaku is a unit of measurement which is calibrated against the metric system, where 10 metres is equivalent to exactly 33 shaku, so a shaku is 33.3 cm or 11.93 inches.

Historically shaku where slightly longer, equalling 13.96 inches or 35.45 cm. This discrepancy can cause some confusion, depending on which shaku value is used and whether it’s converted to the imperial or metric system. For the sake of clarity and to keep things consistent, we’ll only use the modern measurement of a shaku.

If we take a look at the most common types of Japanese blades they can be broken down into 3 lengths:

1 shaku commonly used for Tanto or daggers

1-2 shaku often used for Wakizashi or Kodachi

2-3 shaku commonly used for katana

In terms of the average or most popular katana length, you can expect the average blade to be between 2.3 and 2.5 shaku or 27 and 30 inches (70 to 76 cm). The overall length of a Katana including the tsuka (handle) can be expected to between 3.3 and 3.6 shuka or 39 and 43 inches (100cm to 110cm).  The models we sell are between these ranges.

As we’ve already discussed, it’s possible to find Katana that fall well outside these averages, which doesn’t mean they are any less capable or effective. A sword which suits a 6-foot man might not be suitable for a 5-foot woman, finding a blade that suits your body dimensions is just as important as finding a quality sword.

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The Parts of a Katana | Terminology & Guide

The Katana or Samurai Sword is Japanese sword with ancient origins. Fabled for being wielded by the Samurai warrior caste, it has a long and rich history, beginning with its Chinese origins all the way up to its use in the second world war and beyond. The Katana has been forged and crafted by skills swordsmiths for hundreds of generations, evolving over time to become the sword which is now at the forefront of popular culture.

No two Samurai Swords are ever going to be identical, they’ll each have their own quirks and character imparted by the sword forging process. Traditionally, only the Samurai caste could own and wield a Katana, the punishment for breaking this law was often swift and deadly. Nowadays the Samurai no longer exist, but there is still intense regulation around the forging of Katana within Japan, with limited numbers produced per swordsmith every year.  View our collection here.

The parts of a Katana

Kashira: The kashira is the butt, pommel or knob which is found at the end of the swords handle.

Tsuka: The tsuka is the swords handle which has been tightly wrapped with a type of cloth called the tsukaito. The process of wrapping the hilt of the sword is called tsukamaki, and required a great deal of patience and skill to master. The tools required are paper, glue, cloth (ito) and of course the tsuka itself.

Samekawa: The samekawa is another form of hilt wrapping which sits under the tsukaito. It’s often made from stingray skin or occasionally shark skin. Modern versions will often use synthetic materials.

Menuki: The menuki are small decorative sculptures, often depicting animals or mythological creatures. The menuki will be placed on top of the samekawa but under the tsukaito. These ornaments would often be used show the character of the sword owner, nowaday they are purely used for aesthetic purposes.

Mekugi: The mekugi are small pegs made from bamboo that affix the swords tang in place underneath the handle. It’s important that these pegs are flexible and durable so as to remain intact when the sword is impacted.

Tang: The tang is the section of the blade that extends into the swords handle, the tang may also be called the nakago. It’s held in place by the mekugi. A full tang is highly recommended if a functional sword is required.

Fuchi: The fuchi is the metal sleeve that keeps the tsuka locked together.

Seppa: The seppa look a bit like metal washers which serve as spacers located on the sides of the handguards and they allow for the tightness of the sword handle to be adjusted.

Tsuba: The tsuba is the japanese name for the swords handguard. Often these handguards are engraved or carved with patterns or creatures to create fascinating designs. The tsuba additionally helps protect the wielder's hand from slipping from the handle onto the sword's blade.

Habaki: The habaki is the metal collar located at the base of the blade of the sword. The purpose of the habaki is to increase the swords stability and the ensure all parts fit tightly together.

Saya: The Saya or scabbard is used to protect the blade while not in use, both from the elements and to prevent accidental injury. Traditional Saya is constructed from Honoki wood, which is carved and fitted together into the desired shape. Most saya are then lacquered in order to provide a level of weatherproofing and for decorative purposes.

Sageo: The sageo is a cord the secures the saya to the warrior's side allowing for convenient and easy access.

Ken: The Ken is the name for the blade of a Japanese sword. The processes and skill involved in making a Japanese blade in the traditional manner are quite remarkable and involves many stages to go from steel billet to completed sword. Many swordsmiths in Japan spend a lifetime dedicated to the art form, striving to create the perfect sword to rival those created by the masters' swordsmiths from history. Despite advances in modern technology and better insights into steel alloys, many claims that the blades produced during the Edo period are far superior to anything produced today, however, it is intrinsically difficult to put such claims to the test given that most Edo period swords are strictly museum pieces.

The swords blade itself has several parts:

Hamon: The Hamon is the wave-like pattern formed on the edge of the blade during the differential hardening process. Today, the Hamon is often produced for aesthetic purposes only, these are generally produced with either acid etching or engraving.

Yaibi: The yaibi is the cutting edge of the blade. It is important to point out that a sword should not be oversharpened, doing so can decrease the effectiveness of its cutting ability as well as posing unnecessary dangers to the user.

Kissaki: The kissaki is the chisel tip at the end of the sword. A well-formed, sharpened and polished kissaki is a good indication of a quality sword. 

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How Much Does a Katana Weigh?

If you’re thinking about buying a Katana, you might be wondering to yourself, how much does a katana weigh? The answer is perhaps not as straightforward as it might first appear, with numerous factors influencing the final weight such as materials used, length, thickness and width. We can make a ballpark approximation based on the various weights we’ve come across, but any individual Katana may fall well outside this range.

Katana Weight

Most Katana are between 900 grams and 1400 grams (2lbs to 3.1lbs), with the average Katana weighing in at 1200 grams (1.2kg or 2.65 lbs). Historical Katana’s made using traditional methods tend to be slightly heavier than modern-day counterparts, but there are so many factors influencing the weight of a Katana that it’s difficult to make a sweeping statement as to how heavy a Katana should be. Most of the Katana we sell are between 1000 grams and 1200 grams, these figures vary from sword to sword, as the sword forging process is as much an art as it is a science. The saya will add approximately 100 – 200 grams to the final weight of the sword, but this again differs from saya to saya. You can click here to see our range.

Materials

Not all steels weigh the same amount for the volume of space occupied. Some modern-day steel alloys incorporate other metals that can decrease the mass of the final product without affecting the structural integrity. For example, magnesium steel alloys are significantly lighter than many common steels and don’t sacrifice strength to achieve this lightness. Many of these newer steels are not commonly available for the production of swords, but we would expect this to change as the technology spreads, which could result in a significant decrease in the weight of katana.

As it stands just now, there’s not a significant difference between the weight of the metals used in production swords. The size, shape and amount of steel used is the biggest influencing factor at present.

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1060 Carbon Steel Guide

Steel is available in several flavours, while we’re all mostly familiar with stainless steel, there are actually more than 100 types of steel alloy available. Steel can be used in an incredible amount of industrial applications, varying in hardness, toughness and flexibility depending on the levels of additional compounds mixed into the alloy. These variations mean one type of steel is ideal for shock absorbers, while another is better suited to cutlery. Every steel contains at least some carbon, the amount present varies depending on what the steel is to be used for.

1060 Steel Properties

1060 carbon steel is a commonly available general purpose steel which is frequently used in a range of engineering applications where extreme toughness and strength are not major concerns. It’s designated as medium carbon content, containing 0.60% carbon. It’ll frequently be used in automotive parts such as axles, shafts, pistons, gears and clutches. Owing to its availability, adequate toughness and reasonable mailability, the steel is often used in the production of swords. Other steels in the 10xx range may contain more or less carbon, generally speaking, the lower the final two numbers, the less carbon is present and the softer the resulting steel will be. 1060 carbon steel offers a reasonable balance between hardness, mailability and affordability.

1060 Steel for Swords

1060 steel swords can take a decent edge which will additionally be resistant to wear and tear, meaning less time required for sharpening. However, as with all carbon steels, it may rust if not cared for correctly. All of our swords are delivered with a think coating of oil which stops the oxidization of the steel. This coating must be maintained to avoid rusting. If rust spots do appear they can be easily removed with a bit of patience and some very fine sandpaper. 1060 steel is less brittle than other steels with a higher carbon content and it presents an excellent balance between toughness and flexibility. The steel can be sharpened with very little effort and it will remain sharp through continued use. However, as with all swords, they must be handled correctly and professionally, taking due care to use proper techniques. A mishandled blade can snap or cause serious physical harm. In order to create an even harder cutting edge, 1060 steel can be differentiated hardened, which creates a tough cutting edge and a flexible spine. This process must be professionally performed so as to avoid weakening the structural integrity of the blade.

CARING FOR 1060 STEEL

To ensure your sword lasts a lifetime of use, it’s important to perform regular maintenance, this will prevent rust spots from forming and ensure the blade remains functionally sharp. After every use, wipe the blade clean to ensure all fingerprints are removed, as well as other contaminants. Take the time to lightly oil the blade every fortnight with mineral oil or oil specifically designed for swords. If you intend to store the sword for any length of time, then coating the blade with vaseline or Renaissance is a great choice. These substances create a barrier which prevents the oxygen from reacting with the iron content of the blade. Additionally, a coating of oil provides a nice shiny finish for the sword, In order to keep your sword in tip-top condition and rust free for as long as possible, a few minutes of maintenance every week is recommended. Wipe the blade clean after every use to remove fingerprints, dust, and other contaminants, and ensure it’s oiled at least once a fortnight. If long-term storage is required, consider coating the blade in vaseline or Renaissance which has been specifically designed to preserve items. The oil creates a physical barrier from the elements such as water and oxygen from reaching the blade and will prevent rusting. The coating of oil will also give the sword a nice shine.

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What is T10 Steel?

T10 is a type of tool steel, which perhaps unsurprisingly is used in many manufacturing processes. As with all tool steels, they must be able to withstand significant pressures and temperatures, which makes them ideally suited for sword use.

Tools steels are made to withstand repeated impacts at a range of extreme temperatures without losing their endurance characteristics, which is why they are so well suited to use in industrial settings.

There are numerous flavors of tool steels available, most of which function in a similar manner, while others are specifically made to meet niche requirements.

T10 Steel

With regards to t10 steel, the T, in this case, signifies that it’s a High-Speed steel with a Tungsten Base. High-Speed tool steels include tungsten (t1 to t15) and the molybdenum (M1 to M52) steel alloys. These allow are characterized by their ability to be hardened to 62 to 67 HRC. while maintaining this hardness through significant temperature ranges, up to 1004°F, which means they are particularly well suited to high-speed machinery (hence the name). These steel alloys are commonly employed in drills, lathes, routers, and saws. The 10 in T10 signifies the carbon content, which ranges between 0.95% and 1.05%. The T types of steel start at T1` which is between 0.05% and 0.15% carbon content, all the way up to T15 which typically has a carbon content of between 1.2% and 1.3%. It is often the case that forges will not completely understand or know what type of steel they are selling to people. There is a distinct lack of publicly available and easily understood information published, which can result in T10 tool steel being lumped in and sold as something which is largely identical to the more popular and better-understood carbon steels such as 1060 or 1095. However, there is an important distinction to make between these steel types, both in endurance, strength, and ability to resist scratches and marking. T10 steel is perhaps one of the strongest and most suitable carbon steels that we are easily able to obtain for sword use. Its characteristics and properties are not only suitable for tools, but it can create a superb sword as well. Pretty much any steel can be worked and sharpened to hold an edge, but most are unable to hold a candle to T10’s edge holding ability. A T10 edge will remain for a significant amount of time without additional sharpening requires, it’ll also resist most types of abrasive damage which is common to swords that are used for cutting. Additionally, T10 will remain impact resistant and allow for the stresses normally produced when performing a cut to be easily absorbed without any compromises made to the integrity of the blade. Most high carbon steels will lose a portion of their carbon content during the forging process, heating and quenching repeatedly will inevitably reduce the overall carbon levels. In a practical sense, this means that that steel that was 1095 will normally end up with a lesser carbon content once it’s been forged into a sword. With regards to T10, it has been specifically designed to retain its carbon content at high temperatures. This allows for a sword made out of T10 steel to be hardened significantly more than a normal production sword.

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What is Tamahagane Steel?

Tamahagane is a steel originating from Japan which often used to create traditional Japanese swords. In a metallurgical sense, the metal is primarily made up of two parts, steel ore, and carbon. The steel ore originates from iron sand and the carbon is derived from charcoal. These two components are heated and smelted in a traditional bloomery, which is also known as the Tatara. Once this mix is sufficiently heated the two components are melted into a steel slag called Tamahagane.

Tamahagane

The process used to create Tamahagane is quite labor intensive and it’s carefully regulated and supervised by the NBTHK (Nittoho) organization. Only steel made in the traditional manner and in an authentic Tatara (which there is only a handful left in the country) can be called tamahagane. The NBTHK also control the sale and regulate the distribution of iron sand ore sand, ensuring all resulting steel meets their strict guidelines.

A ‘Nittoho Tatara’ is only allowed to be lit for a three week period in the deepest part of winter, this ensures the humidity is at its lowest which creates a purer steel. During this three week period of activity, each forge can create a maximum of three batches of steel, with each batch taking 7 days to process and complete.

Due to the very limited and regulated supply of Tamahagane, prices are extremely high and competition between sword smiths to acquire the steel is fierce. Due to this limited supply of traditional steel, many smiths will use a steel blend called orishigane (leftovers). These leftovers can be made up from old nails, steel shavings and other types of iron-containing materials. By supplementing the steel with additional charcoal, the swordsmiths are able to control the amount of carbon present in the resulting Oroshigane steel ore. Most traditional swordsmiths will use smaller versions of the Tatara, which are often bespoke made by the swordsmiths themselves.

Due to the heavy regulation imposed on Tamahagane production by both the government and the NBTHK corporation, it’s very unlikely that any swordsmiths that are not registered will be able to acquire Nittoho Tamahagane.

Anyone that is located outside of Japan is free to create their own Tatara and smelt tamahagane. However, the traditional iron sand (ore) that is used in the production of Nittoho tamahane is only found in the Northern tip of Japan. The sand (satetsu) is unique in terms of chemical makeup and color (green / brown), and it’s these impurities that give Tamahagane it’s unique visual feel and looks. So, even if you have your own forge up and running, you’ll not be able to replicate the coloration and features present in genuine Tamagane without access to the genuine iron ore sand.

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Is 1095 Steel Any Good?

Steel doesn’t just come in one type, in fact, there are more than a dozen types of steel in common use today. This is largely due to the variety of functions that steel is used for. It is mixed and alloyed with a variety of compounds and metals, these combinations affect the properties of the steel making it better suited to certain tasks, which is why so much effort is made in creating the types we have available today. Carbon is found in every steel type, regardless of the purpose, while the exact amount of carbon present varies depending on what the intended purpose of the steel is.

1095 Steel Properties

1095 Steel is a standard type of carbon steel and it is most often used in the forging of swords and knives. The 95 in the name of the steel indicates the carbon content, in this case, it’s 0.95% carbon content. The inclusion of carbon helps harden the steel and toughens the resulting blades, making them more impervious to wear and tear over time. Despite the toughness provided by the carbon content, other types of steel are tougher still due to increased levels of manganese. The trade-off with higher manganese levels is a more brittle blade, which has an increased chance of snapping or shattering.

1095 Steel for Swords

1095 steel, when forged into a sword is capable of holding an excellent edge and are straightforward to sharpen. However, if not cared for correctly, the steel can easily rust. Often swords will be delivered with a coating of oil which helps prevent rusting, it’s important to maintain this coating over time to avoid unsightly rust spots. Any rust that does occur can usually be removed with some very fine sandpaper and a bit of patience.

1095 steel is often more brittle than steels with lower carbon content, so it’s quite well suited for blades which are not too think, swords are an ideal fit due to their robust nature. They are very easy to sharpen and will maintain the edge through use. However, proper techniques and methods must be used when using a 1095 carbon steel sword, a misplaced cut or mishandled strike can lead to a snapped blade.

1095 can be differentiated hardened to create an ever harder cutting edge and more flexible spine, but care must be taken in this process to avoid weakening the overall strength of the blade. Even though 1095 steel is a great choice for swords, it can be frequently found in thicker knives. If so inclined, it is possible to polish 1095 steel to create a shiny blade, while other metals such as Stainless steel are better suited to polishing, 1095 can take a polish with a little bit of effort.

Caring for 1095 Steel

In order to keep your sword in tip-top condition and rust free for as long as possible, a few minutes of maintenance every week is recommended. Wipe the blade clean after every use to remove fingerprints, dust, and other contaminants, and ensure it’s oiled at least once a fortnight. If long-term storage is required, consider coating the blade in vaseline or Renaissance which has been specifically designed to preserve items. The oil creates a physical barrier from the elements such as water and oxygen from reaching the blade and will prevent rusting. The coating of oil will also give the sword a nice shine.

Other Uses for 1095

As we’ve already established, 1095 steel is perfect for functional swords such as Katana and Wakizashi. It’s also well suited for daggers and replica blades. Other types of steel such as stainless are better suited to display only pieces or to be used as utensils, this is due to the rust resistance this type of steel has natively. 1095 may also be used in machetes or gardening tools. Any application that requires a wear resistant sharp blade may benefit from 1095 steel. It is our recommended choice for anyone that needs a functional blade.

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Legandary Swords from History

History is jam-packed full of stories, legends, fables and rumours of mystical and powerful swords. Quite often, the weapons described in these tales have a certain amount of grounding in reality. In this article we’ve brought together 10 of the most fascinating legendary swords from history, each has an interesting if not fully understood saga with tales of incredible feats, mystery and intrigue.

The Sword in the Stone

The legend of Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table is known to be a tale with more myth and legend rather than facts. However, a small sanctuary located in Monte Siepi, Italy plays host to a real world ‘Sword in the Stone’. The legend states that the sword once belonged to a 12th century Tuscan Cavalier who later became Saint Galgano. Before the sainthood stuff happened, Archangel Michael appeared to Galgano and ordered him to cease his sinful ways.

Galgan being a man that enjoyed a little bit of sin now and then protested at the Archangels demands, saying that stopping his ways would be as stabbing a stone with a sword. In order to illustrate his point, he thrust his weapon at a nearby bolder, but rather than snapping, then buried itself in the stone all the way up to the hilt where it remains to this day. Needless to say that Galgan turned his life around and even became a Saint in the process. It’s easy to understand why this sword is often considered to be the inspiration for the legend of Excalibur.

The Kusanagi

The Kusanagi is a true mystery with very little in the way of solid evidence and a very mysterious mythical origin story. According to the well-known folklore, Kusanagi or the “Sword in the Snake”, was originally retrieved from the remains of an eight-headed serpent which had met its demise at the hands of the god of seas and storms. This is understandably a little bit out there in terms of verified histories, however, the sword in all likelihoods did exist. It’s an essential component in the ceremony and imperial regalia of Japan. The sword is meant to be a sign that the imperial family is descended from the sun god and cements their right to a rule. 

Legend also states that a monk stole the sword during the 6th century but it was later lost at sea when the monk’s boat sank. A group of dedicated Shinto priests recovered the sword from the seabed and it was returned to the imperial family. Given that the sword has not been seen since and the priests refuse to let it see the light of day, in all likelihood the sword remains lost.

Durandal

For millennia a mysterious sword has been lodged into the cliffs located behind and above the Notre Dame chapel located in Rocamadour, France. The legend states that the sword was previously owned by the paladin Roland, who had named the sword Durandal. 

When surrounded and with little chance of escape or victory, Roland is said to have thrown the sword at the cliffs in order to save it from being taken and used by his enemy. The sword pierced the cliffs and remains there to this day.  The chapel is something of a pilgrimage site with many making the journey to pray and see the sword with their own eyes. The sword was temporary moved in 2011 for an exhibit taking place in the Cluny Museum in Paris.

The Cursed Muramasa

The Muramasa swords are a fascinating piece of history. The tale goes that Muramasa wanted to his swords to be the most prestigious weapons around. He was already an accomplished swordsmith, but he increased their potency by praying for his swords to become ‘prodigious destroyers’.

As the gods were already impressed by his significant skill as a swordsmith they imbued his weapons with a malevolent and dangerous spirit with a lust for blood. If the blades were not regularly sated with combat they would eventually drive the owner to commit atrocious murders or commit suicide. There are many tales of previous owners being driven mad and being killed out of necessity. Such was the conviction that the swords were cursed that an imperial decree forbade the swords from being owned by anyone. 

Many examples still exist today, so even if you can’t own a cursed sword you can still see one.

St. Peter’s Sword

There are more than a few legends surrounding the sword said to have been used by Saint Peter to slice off the ear of a deserving high priest in the Gethsemane gardens. One version of the story has the sword being transported to England by Joseph of Arimathea accompanied by the Holy Grail.

However, there is another version of the story which has the Bishop of Jordan taking the sword to Poland in 968 AD. The Bishop’s sword is considered by many to be the authentic version and is now relocated to the Archdiocese Museum in Poznan. 

The Wallace Sword

If you’ve seen the film Braveheart then you’re probably well aware of the story of William Wallace and his rebellion against the English. What you might not know is that there are rumours that William Wallace used the flesh and skin from a defeated opponent to create the sheath, hilt and belt. The unlucky donor was said to have been Hugh de Cressingham who was defeated by Wallace at the battle of Stirling Bridge.

Other twists on the same tale say that Wallace and his comrades used Cressinghams skin for their sword sashes and flesh for their saddle girths. However, modern analysis of the Wallace sword indicates that this is unlikely to be the case.

The Sword of Goujian

In 1965, and absolutely outstanding discovery was made when a pristine sword was unearthed in a moist tomb in China. Despite the swords dating back nearly 2000 years not a hint of rust or corrosion was found on the sword, despite the unfavourable conditions it was stored in.

Additionally, the blade remained exceptionally sharp, a point that was proven when an archaeologist cut his finger when testing the edge of the blade. The workmanship of the sword was incredibly detailed and used techniques and methods that many believed didn’t come into existence for many hundreds of years later. 

The sword is engraved which translated as ‘King of Yue" and "made this sword for his personal use’.

While it is true that sword incorporated methods which would provide some protection against corrosion, the real reason why it’s barely aged is down to some good fortune. The scabbard of the sword was able to create an airtight seal around the sword which prevented the elements from reaching the blade. It’s for this reason why it lasted so long and in such good condition.

The Seven-Branched Sword

In 1945 a very mysterious and unusual sword was found in Japan’s Isonokami shrine. The sword was a peculiar design, boasting six protrusions from the sides of the sword. The sword itself is well weathered and the inscriptions are hard to decipher, but it is thought that the sword was presented to the Japanese monarchy by the King of Korea.

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What Is A Battle Ready Sword

If you have recently been in the market for an ancient samurai sword or any sword for that matter there is a good chance that you have come across the term battle ready sword. In fact, Internet vendors and sword enthusiasts throw this term around like a rapper throws around bling. Unfortunately, there are a lot of misconceptions when it comes to sword and one of the biggest is the battle ready sword. When most people talk about battle ready swords they are either using the wrong classification or just simply don’t know what they are talking about. Sure, battle ready swords are designed and created in the exact same manner of battle medieval swords, but it doesn’t mean they can handle the same kind of harsh punishment.

Battle ready swords can be used like a real weapon or they can be displayed for decorative purposes, but if you want to invest in a true battle ready sword, you have to know exactly what to look for. Keep in mind that just because a vendor says that his swords are a battle ready sword, it doesn’t really mean that it is true. It will be up to you and you only to make the appropriate determination. There really are four distinctive qualities that can help determine a battle ready sword. And, these qualities are steel, tempering, hilt, and tang.

Knowing And Understanding The Steel

Have you ever seen an old ancient sword that gleams and shines? Sure this looks pretty, but it most likely means that they are constructed of stainless steel. While stainless steel is a very durable and sturdy metal, it is so much when it comes to swords. Any sword that is constructed of stainless steel was only intended for decorative purposes. These types of swords are extremely low maintenance, but they are brittle and can’t withstand harsh punishment. It doesn’t matter what the vendor says or what region the steel came from, this is the case with all stainless steel designs.

You can also expect a battle ready sword to be designed and constructed with carbon steel. There are primarily two types of carbon steels that can be associated with battle ready swords, and these are the AISI 10xx and the AISI 5160.

AISI 10xx – The AISI 10xx is a plain carbon steel blade that is commonly found in the Japanese models. This is without a doubt an excellent choice for a blade, as it the steel formula contains manganese, iron, and carbon. The actual carbon content will be classified in the last to numbers of the rating’s name. For instance, if the vendor says this is an AISI 1050 sword, then the blade should be guaranteed to be at least 50 percent carbon. If the vendor says the sword is an AISI 1070, you should be guaranteed that the blade is constructed with at least 70 percent carbon. Of course, the higher the carbon content, the tougher the steel is going to be, and vice versa for the lower the content.

AISI 5160 – There are many experts that swear by the AISI 5060 blades. Although this steel mixture is commonly found in European styles, most experts claim that it is the very best mixture. This is probably due to the fact that the steel alloy has a low 0.7 percent Chromium and an even lower 0.2 percent Silicon mixture. These light mixtures make the swords bade tough, reliable, durable, and more resistant to corrosion.

Keep in mind that there are other types of carbon mixtures like the carbon steels, spring steels, and tools steels. But the AISI 10XX and AISI 5160 are without a doubt the most common amongst the rest.

The Importance Of Tempering

Just because you have found a sword that was constructed of carbon steel it does not necessarily mean that you are dealing with an authentic battle ready sword. In order for the sword to be functional and battle ready, it needs to be properly tempered. The main purpose and goal of tempering a blade are to make sure that the balance between the toughness and the softness is evenly matched. If the blade is too hard it is going to become brittle and might break. If the blade is too soft it isn’t going to be able to cut anything.

There really is a fine line between in this step, as one step in the wrong direction could ruin the sword altogether. If you ever hear or see a company boast about its quality of steel, but mention nothing about the tempering process, there is a good chance that it hasn’t been heated and treated properly.

Knowing The Tang

When you hear someone talk about the tang of the sword, they are actually referring to the portion of the blade that extends into the grip. How do you expect a sword to be functional and battle ready if it flies out and comes back at you when you swing it? In fact, a sword without a properly designed and built tang is just a major accident waiting to happen.

It is important to note that different styles and makes of swords will utilize different tangs. For instance, the European battle ready sword will utilize what is known as a full tang. Of course, the word full tang can be a bit deceptive, as it describes two halves of the handle. This is an extremely common design amongst kitchen knives, as each side of the tang will sandwich the blade in the middle of them. The tang is the actual part of the sword that is peened or threaded over the pommel. It will also then be welded just to add a touch more integrity.

The key to making a sword battle ready, it must have a “functional tang”. Each type of battle ready sword has a unique tang design. But, all of these tangs are functional, which is unlike to swords that are utilized for decorative purposes. One thing is for sure, if the tang is not attached to the sword properly, it will detach from the handle upon the first few swings. This is why it is crucial to make sure the sword is fully battle ready, before investing in a specific type.

Does A Battle Ready Sword Have A Sharp Blade?

One of the biggest misconceptions of the battle ready sword is it has a sharp blade. While some battle ready swords are sharp, there are some types that have a blade with blunt edges. The greatest benefit of the blunt battle ready sword is that it can be sharpened at any time.

Are Battle Ready Swords Indestructible?

Have you ever watched two warriors battle it out with swords? If so, you probably noticed that the swords appeared to be indestructible. Well, this is not the case in the real world, because the battle ready sword is nothing more than functional. In a battle, a battle ready sword’s tang could detach from its handle or the blade could break off. Of course, if you want to invest in an extremely durable battle ready sword, you will probably have to pay a hefty price for it. However, a high price tag does not always offer durability.

Are All Battle Ready Swords Easy To Handle?

Another major misconception that plagues the battle ready sword is it extremely easy to handle. There is no evidence to support this conception, as there are some types of battle ready swords that are extremely difficult to handle. These swords are either heavy, bulky or both. If are in the least familiar with the battle ready sword, you will know that a heavy design can negatively impact functionality.

Before investing in a battle ready sword, it will be in your best interest to carefully view the specs of each available option. If you are unable to balance the sword’s weight, it will not be functional for you.

Most Popular Types Of Battle Ready Swords

It is true that there has been a lot of battle ready swords come and go over the years. Sure, some of these swords withstood the test of time better than others, but amongst these, which are really the most popular. Below, you will discover some of the most popular battle ready swords and why they are still so popular in today’s time.

Black Caesar Raiding Carbon Steel Pirate Sword – The pirate culture has always been one of the most popular and probably will continue to be as long as time goes on. This is probably why the Black Caesar is still one of the most popular battles ready swords in today’s time. This is a handmade sword that is forged in carbon steel and features somewhat of a wood handle construction. The sword was actually modeled and designed after the famous sword that belonged to Blackbeard. The grooves on the blade make the design lightweight, which makes the sword easy and a true joy to handle for long periods of time.

Japanese Samurai Gunsen Tri-Colored War Fan Katana – Katana swords are extremely popular, as they were the preferred weapons of the ancient samurais. This traditionally designed weapon is forged from 1090 carbon and makes the perfect replica. It comes fully equipped with a branded zinc aluminum guard that really makes the sword stand out. This exact model was actually carried into battle by the infamous Bushi Clan. You will notice a groove located down the center of the blade. This groove was specifically instituted to make the blade lightweight and sturdy. Then handle is the construction of ray skin combined with cotton cord warp to provide a more comfortable feel. You could literally swing this sword all day and enjoy it every time.

Full Tang Templar Brethren Battle Ready Sword – When you look at the Templar Brethren sword it truly is easy to see why it is so popular. The EN45 carbon steel design makes the blade extremely versatile and durable. Along with this, the blade extends to an impressive 42 inches long, making the actual blade length 32 inches. The sword was modeled after the Knights Templar, which was a famous military order of the knighthood during the time of the Crusades. Only the best of the best and the bravest were invited into this elite group. The octagonal pommel really doesn’t hurt the overall design of the sword either. The pommel also features a unique red cross centered on both sides. This sword could literally take a beating and keep in dishing out punishment.

Know The Difference Between The Battle Ready Replicas And Historic Makes

There are tons of misconceptions when it comes to battle ready sword and their historic counterparts. Sure, these swords are modeled after real makes that were utilized in ancient times. However, what most people don’t understand is that the historic swords had problems as well and needed to be repaired frequently. They were often chipped and broken in battle. While the replicas are probably designed better thanks to technology, they are still going to experience the same types of problems. These replicas will by no means be indestructible, but they are better designed than what you would find in ancient times. When a sword breaks or suffers damage, it does not necessarily mean that you got ripped off or the sword isn’t battle ready.

If you took this statement to heart, it would mean that any weapon ever created wasn’t battle ready, which is just nonsense. Weapons break from time to time and you can expect the same results with battle ready swords. However, non-battle ready swords wouldn’t even last a fraction of time in battle.

Are Historical Battle Ready Swords Durable?

Many people are under the impression that if a battle ready sword endured battle it just has to be durable. However, this is not always the case and is most often not the case. If you visit a vintage sword museum, you will definitely notice that most or all of the weapons on display are damaged to some degree. With modern technology and design, manufacturers have been able to improve their swords significantly.

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How to Sharpen a Sword

Are you thinking about taking up the ancient art of swordsmanship? Just imagine back in the day, these weapons were considered the main battle artillery. Knights, warriors, and samurais practiced, lived and died with these weapons on a daily basis. That being said, you might be surprised to learn that a sword doesn’t really even have to be sharp to be considered functional or battle ready. However, if you are going to appreciate the real art and want to train like an ancient Japanese warrior, what’s the point of doing so with a dull sword? Of course, sharpening a sword or katana isn’t as simple as it might seem.

Understanding Some Of The Very Basics

Just like any tasks sword sharpening involves some basic knowledge. And, it is imperative to understand these basics before you just try to jump right into the whole ordeal. First off, any beginner or novice should never attempt to sharpen an antique sword. Most antique katana swords are extremely valuable. Without the right knowledge and know-how, you will most likely ruin the value of the sword, which is something that you want to avoid altogether. This task is best left to the experts.

When it comes to sharpening any sword, you have to be very wary of using power tools. Regardless, of what you see or read on the Internet. In order to be able to utilize power tools to sharpen a sword, you really have to know what you are doing. Not only is this process extremely dangerous, but also the friction alone can really heat up the blade. Applying too much friction too quickly would most certainly destroy the temper and heat treatment of any old Japanese sword. When sharpening any sword, you must be extremely careful and patient at all times. You would truly be surprised at the number of accidents every year that is related to sword sharpening and maintenance. Whether you are sharpening the blade, cleaning it, or just shining it up, it is without a doubt imperative to pay 100 percent attention to what you are doing at all times. Eliminating distractions can help as well.

Before any beginner or novice attempts to sharpen a valuable sword he or she should at least get some practice on a less valuable sword. It is completely natural to destroy the geometry on your first several attempts. So, if you are going to screw something up it would be best to screw up a much less valuable item. Japanese swords are truly masterful and made with precision, so you want to do everything within your power to avoid destroying them.

The Items Necessary For Sharpening

Just like any DIY project, you are going to need some items before you begin your task. In order to start sharpening your sword, you are going to need the following items:

First, you will need a sword of your choice

You will need a metal file

A whetstone and oil for the whetstone will be absolutely necessary

3M 400 Grit Emery paper will be necessary

A file

Paper or a good clean rag to wipe and clean the clean

Lastly, you are going to need a block of wood

Also, as mentioned-above some patience and elbow grease can also go a long way.

Beginning The Process

You are pretty much now ready to begin the sharpening process. However, before beginning one excellent tip is to remember is to allow the edge of the sword to reveal itself throughout the entirety of this process. Most beginners will focus too much attention on the edge rather than focusing on removing the metal. You really want to remove the metal until the edge of the blade is naturally exposed. And, it is entirely possible to over sharpen, so this is something that you have to be careful of as well.

To begin the process, you want to find a good comfortable working environment with a great working table. Lots of light can help as well. Place the sword on the table and prop the blade up with your block of wood. Take your file, use measured strokes at 30-degree angles and begin sharpening the blade with your file. Each time you go a full stoke on the blade, you want to keep count of that stroke. Slowly move your way down the blade until you have gone the entire length, flip the sword over, and do the same exact thing, the same number of times.

You have to pay close attention to not spending too much time on just one side of the blade. Keep filling, while turning the blade over until a rough edge starts to appear. The blade is going to look rather rough during this stage and that might seem discouraging, but this is the normal process during this step. You will really begin to refine the blade in the next couple of steps.

Refining The Blade

Once you have completed all the above steps, you will be ready to move on to the refining process. This is where you utilize the whetstone and oil. Start by applying a thin film of oil to the surface of the blade. This will be used for polishing, not grinding. Once the oil has been applied, go ahead and pass the blade over the whetstone. Once again, make sure that you are utilizing a thirty-degree angle with a slow uniform stroking motion. It is important to utilize a back and forth motion instead of a circular one, as the objective here it to polish the blade.

Also, pay special attention to each side of the blade, as you want to make sure each side receives the same number of polishes. Often inspect the blade and still do not be concerned with looks or the feel at this point. Keep working the blade until you have gone over every inch of the surface.

During this step of the process, the good lighting can come in handy. Excellent lighting will help you see the areas that you might have missed. You are not trying to sharpen the edge; you are just trying to remove the metal until the edge of the blade is exposed.

Finishing Up The Process

You are almost entirely finished with the process of sharpening your sword, but there is still quite a bit of work ahead. During the final stage here you will try to blend the sharpened blade with the rest of the sword. And, this is where the 400-grit sandpaper can come in handy. The 3M brands will be your best bet, as it is not worth it to deal with the cheap stuff. Go ahead and tear off a small postage sized stamp piece of the sandpaper.

You will want to dampen the sandpaper with just a small amount of water and run the paper along the edge of the blade. You will want to do this by utilizing your finger and applying thirty-degree angles again. Be extremely careful during this step, because it can be extremely easy to cut yourself.

This steps it without a doubt one of the most dangerous for your fingers. Just one little mishap at this point and you could be dealing with a very serious, very nasty gash. Make sure that you don’t have any distractions bothering you doing this stage. Turn off the TV, put the dogs in their kennels, and do pretty much whatever you have to do in order to eliminate any distractions during this stage.

Some experts will even consider rubbing water and vinegar on the blade to make the sharpening look less obvious, but at this point, you are pretty much done with the entire sharpening process.

Speeding Up The Process

As you can see, sharpening a sword or katana is without a doubt tedious and dangerous. If this seems like too much trouble to you or you just don’t have the confidence to accomplish the task, you do have a variety of other options available to you. First off, you could just hire someone to do the work for you. Of course, this will probably be your most expensive alternative. Don’t start sweating yet, as there is another option available. You can invest in a knife-sharpening tool. While you will probably read a lot of reviews and experts saying that these tools don’t work for katana swords, this is not actually the case.

In fact, there are several of these tools available on the market that will do a fine job on your sword. In addition to this, they are extremely affordable. Just make sure that you take the time to put in the proper research and see what other sword practitioners are saying about these sharpeners before fully investing.

While these tools are effective and cheap, they do come with one major drawback. And, that drawback is that you won’t achieve the detailed look or professional, satisfying edges that you would when you complete the process yourself or hire an expert.

Understanding The Varying Girts

Another important thing that you need to know about sharpening swords is that the grit can vary from country to country. For instance, in the United States, Europe, and Japanese countries grit is used to specify the layering of mesh that separates the abrasive particles. While some people like to utilize different grits, the problems really come in when you get to the finer grits. In The United States when you get to the real fine grits the manufacturers actually start listing their product in size of microns, which throws off the grit rating when compared to other countries.

For instance, United States grit rating of 12,000 would be equal to a 25,000 in Japanese grit. US grit rating of 5,000 would be equal to a Japanese grit rating of 10,000.

Japanese Water Stones For Sharpening

Before choosing a water stone to sharpen your katana, you should know that there are primarily two types of Japanese water stones available for your choosing. These two types are the natural and the artificial stones. Natural stones are without a doubt more expensive, but it really is the artificial stones are used for sharpening polish. Most of the time, experts that are looking to achieve a full cosmetic polish will utilize artificial stones. However, this doesn’t mean that natural stones don’t come in handy in a variety of situations.

Properly Soaking The Stones

Most individuals located in the states don’t realize that Japanese Water Stones must be soaked in water before they can be properly utilized. These stones can take anywhere from five to twenty minutes to properly soak and become saturated. Of course, the time can vary depending on the stone. Some stones can even be stored in water, whereas others have to be stored in dry locations. Most experts will just recommend soaking the stones for twenty minutes and storing them in a dry location. This not only really makes things easier, but it really simplifies the process.

Along with this, it doesn’t hurt to add a quarter cup of sodium bicarbonate to the water, as the baking soda will change the pH levels. This prevents the sword from rusting when applying the water stone. Keep in mind that some stones will deteriorate when they are soaked in water and can only be sprinkled with water before applying. Whatever the situation is, it is imperative to always know the type of stone that you are dealing with and thoroughly reading the manufacturer’s instructions.

Sharpening Your Japanese Stones

Just like ancient Japanese swords the Japanese water stones can wear down as well. This is just a normal part of the process and something that you have to deal with. Some stones will wear much faster than other, but you always want to make sure that you are utilizing a good, sharp stone, otherwise, you might not get the appearance and sharpness that you are looking to achieve. Stones that are dull will usually become hollowed out in the middle, so this is something that you want to keep an eye out for.

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