joyfulphilosophertimetravel

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The road to happy travels is paved with acts of kindness turned 7 today!

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“What is a weed? A plant whose virtues have never been discovered” ~ Ralph Waldo Emmerson 🌿🌼🌾 https://ift.tt/2SkGi2m

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Come Back, Barack - SNL

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Two halves make a whole lot of toasting Back in the day, no date was complete without half and half. In fact, I have it from a good source that workers on and around the port, many of whom were immigrants, used to mix a bit of Asti Spumante wine with a bit of dry white wine at the Mercado del Puerto or Port Market. It was the genesis of a tradition and a lesson in compromise. The ladies liked their wine sweet, the men liked theirs dry, and to please both palates medio y medio was born. Today, it’s a part of Montevideo's unique charm. If you ever have the good fortune to visit the Oriental Republic of Uruguay, a stop at the Mercado del Puerto, where Medio y Medio was first served, offers a true cultural picture. Opened in 1886, this working port market still maintains its beautiful wrought-iron structure and high ceilings that look like a 19th century train station from the old country (Europe). As busy today as it was when it opened its gates, this is the hub where locals rich and poor mix with tourists at a sea of restaurants that provide smacking good seafood, and A grade beef. The sound of sparks flying off the grill (parilla), the aroma of the food that’s all natural and one can easily imagine what it was like when those young immigrants started the Medio y Medio trend. But just in case you’re one who thinks imagination is overrated, Roldos in the heart of the market doesn’t leave anything to chance, still serves the best Medio y Medio just like they did ages ago. However, it has only been in the last 40 years that the bar’s famous owner, “Gallego” Alvarez, approached Bodega Santa Rosa to make the refreshing concoction for which Roldos has become synonymous. So actually, even if you miss the boat to Montevideo, a bottle of Medio y Medio can still be had. At Bodega Santa Rosa, a winery noted for its sparkling wines for more than a century, I first sampled Roldos Medio y Medio. And if I could have brought a case home, I would have. This is the perfect drink for Sunday brunch, after work lime and small celebrations. It's light hearted and bubbly but tempered with substance. It's spring time into summer. Medio y Medio is a blend of three grape varieties: Muscatel, originally from Italy, Gewurztraminer, originally from the noth of France and Sauvignon Blanc, originally from Loire, France. Each varietal is fermented separately before its carefully mixed together to achieve the right balance of acidity and sweet. Some of the gas natural to fermentation is saved then is put back into the product y voila Montevideo's Medio y Medio. It's clear in colour with tones of yellow and green with the aroma of sweet fruits and flowers. One can detect hints of fresh peaches, juicy red apples tart green apples in a drink where two halves turned out to be a whole lot more exciting. Funnily enough, Bodega Santa Rosa is connected with the history of Medio y Medio. Daniel Mutio, a fifth generation winemaker whose family founded the winery, great great grandfather was one of the locals who created the half and half measure for dating pleasure. Now thanks to these creative fellas who just wanted to make an impression on their dates, Montevideo has its very own trademark drink.

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How to pop the cork? How to pop open a bottle of bubbly without injuring someone? The tendency is to open with a splash like Grand Prix winners on the podium. But why would you want all that bubbly to go to waste? So here are some tips on opening Champagne or sparkling wine that will impress your friends and family. Of course, it’ll give you more to celebrate as well. First things first, put your bottle to chill before opening. If it’s too warm, the wine will overflow. We spent one class in sommelier school learning to open a bottle of wine. It’s simple but there’s nothing like practice to get it perfect. I defer to my sisters in wine, Barbara Nowak and Beverly Pittman also known as the Saucy Sisters, for a sure fire way to pop the cork with aplomb. Since I’ve already covered step one, the sisters will take it from there. 2 “Grab a towel that’ll you’ll use in just a minute (We used a cloth napkin in sommelier school.). 3 Remove the foil so that the wire cage is exposed. 4 Untwist the wire (It’ll take exactly six turns.) and remove the cage. 5 With the bottle upright and towel in hand, get a good grip on the cork and maintain a downward pressure. 6 With your free hand slowly turn the bottle until the cork gently pops out with the sound of a ‘sigh’.” Do it right and you’ll sigh with relief yourself. The bubbles will be preserved and you can serve it in your favourite Champagne flute. The Verve Flute with its random bubbles adds flair to the occasion. Why do I distinguish between sparkling wine and Champagne? Only the bubbly that comes from Champagne, France can be labelled Champagne. All other wines made using the méthode champenoise or traditional method are called sparkling wines. To quote the Saucy Sisters, authors of ‘The Saucy Sisters Guide to Wine – What every girl should know before she unscrews!’, “Bubbles are the essence of sparkling wines and will reveal whether you’re drinking a high quality sparkler or a cheap copy. Pour a glass and look for yourself. In fine Champagne the bubbles will be tiny and float upward in a continuous stream from the bottom of your glass. If they’re large and random, you might have a lesser-quality bubbly.” If all this talk about how to open a bottle of Champagne whets your appetite for more information, I can recommend ‘The Saucy Sisters Guide to Wine – What every girl should know before she unscrews!’ If you want to immerse yourself in a wine culture, Mendoza, Argentina is a picturesque wine destination where visitors can enjoy a crash course in wine tasting with an accredited sommelier in English. If you have time on your hands Escuela Argentina de Sommelier (The Argentine School of Sommeliers) also offers a one-month Wine Knowledge and Tasting course. You’ll need to have an intermediate understanding of Spanish for the course. I attended the one-month course while I was in Mendoza and learned about the grape varieties, the soil, the wine making process and of course, the tasting.

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Take your taste buds on an adventure For all you foodies out there, the world has become a pot of sumptuous delights just waiting to be served. You can learn a lot about a country just from the kitchen. Every ingredient reveals a history of the people who settled the land. They say, ‘the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach’ and the heart of every culture is revealed through its foods. The local ingredients and traditions are an intrinsic part of preparing a meal. Italy has long been a culinary destination of choice. In Italian culture, food is central and typically a multi-course event. While I never did get around to taking cooking classes in Tuscany, I had a class in good Italian home cooking from the motherly nuns at my convent. Simple food cooked with love using the ingredients they had grown in their beautiful garden. The food on such occasions taste better than anything I’ve tasted in Italian restaurants on this side of the world. Whether you choose a short break or a more extensive cooking holiday, the chance to pick ingredients fresh from the garden or shopping at the market where you can interact with the locals is just the type of cultural immersion that enhances the culinary experience. Add to this the fine art of sniffing, swirling and chewing wine during a lesson in wine tasting, and you’ll have a great story to tell upon your return home. Better yet, you can showcase all you’ve learned by throwing a dinner party for family and a few close friends. Gourmet On Tour designs gourmet holidays throughout Italy, France, Morocco and other top gastronomic destinations. On the culinary adventure just outside of Marrakech, cooking and camel riding are all part of the itinerary, which starts at about US $2,145.00 for a seven-day tour. For the more budget minded culinary enthusiast, responsibletravel.com lists a range of cooking holidays including a five-day Italian Alps Walking and Cooking Holiday from US$397 (excluding flights). For those who want to kill two birds with one stone or I should say cook two birds in the same pot, learning a foreign language can be combined with cooking classes. Casa de Avila in Arequipa, Peru’s gastronomic capital, offered guests this irresistible combo. It was my introduction to culinary adventures. It was also the place where I learned that the potato was not native to Ireland. In fact, potatoes have been part of the Peruvian diet for about 7000 years. So of course, I learned to prepare a potato dish. My favourite dish made in that class was Ceviche, a spicy culinary delight native to Peru that goes down nicely with the national drink called Pisco Sour. In Petra, Jordan, my group and I signed up for a cooking class at Petra Kitchen. What an experience! We cooked alongside local women and chefs who taught techniques I still use today. Never mind that I cried like a baby while chopping onions and garlic. “Each evening meal includes soup, cold and hot mezza and salads, and a main course — all typical Jordanian dishes.” It gave us, a group of travellers from eight different countries, an insight into the secrets of the famous regional cuisine of the Levant. Petra Kitchen is definitely one of my top five food experiences and demonstrates food’s ability to bring people from all walks of life together.

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Fashionable Florence Charming and inviting, Florence is an elegant city without airs. This Italian city has been around since 59 BC but it was the birth of the 15th century Renaissance that put it on the map. And fortunately for us signs of that era abound drawing millions to its banks along the famous Arno River annually. But a museum, the city is not. Fashion, food and Chianti are just as important if not more so. The experience under the Tuscan sun is best achieved before or after the summer holidays when tourists seem to overrun the city of Florence. There are long queues to the museums, the churches and even some restaurants. However, if summer is the only time you can go, make reservations before you leave the country or as soon as you get there. I made reservations to the museums beforehand and walked right past the lines. I overheard an American say, “I’ve been standing here for two hours now!” That’s no way to spend a holiday. It takes the fun out it. But Michael Angelo’s “David” is almost like watching marble come to life. Line or no line, it’s a must see in Florence. Now if you’re not one for crowds, staying at one of the villas just outside the city centre will soothe the nerves. A hotel villa costs about 300 euros. I stayed in a villa run by the Sisters of Stabilite Carita nuns for a bargain. Villa Agape is the most wonderful place I have ever stayed. The moment I walked through the big ornamental gates, a lovely, elderly nun greeted me by name and I felt like Maria in Sound of Music. Once owned by a friend of Galileo Galilei and later the Duchess of D’Aosta, this fifteenth century villa is no longer run by the Sisters of Stabilite Carita. It’s now the Art Hotel Agape but the prices are still reasonable and the reviews still very good. The rooms are beautiful and very comfortable though not luxurious with free wi-fi access. The 3 tier gardens are spectacular and the air is cooler since the villa sits on a hill overlooking the city of Florence. It was quite difficult for me to pull myself away from the villa and its tranquility while I was there. But then again, there was Botticelli’s “Venus Rising” at the Uffizzi, the Ponte Vecchio, and Ferragamo's shoe museum to see, and we cannot forget wine tasting at Antinori. After all, you can’t visit Florence and not taste a fine Chianti Classico wine. If you're vegetarian, Florence most probably has one of the widest selections of vegetarian dishes in Europe. About a 10 minute walk from the villa you can find one of the best restaurants in Florence. An Italian friend recommended Trattoria Omero. It isn't cheap but it's worth it to eat such exceptional cuisine overlooking the olive groves, contemplating fashionable Florence and its flair for enticing the unsuspecting traveller with its charm.

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The South American Wine Route Argentina and Chile are on the map for wine enthusiasts around the world. Gone are the days when one could just show up at a winery and expect to tour it. Today, there are many more bilingual guides at the wineries and the wine tasting at the end is always cause for celebration. However, I find myself drawn to Uruguay where the busloads of tourists haven't yet heard the news about Uruguayan Wine. When I first visited Mendoza, Argentina's main wine region, wine tourism was in its infancy. There were very few wineries with tourist centres and even fewer with restaurants on the premises. Many of the tours I took were conducted by the winemakers, or members of the family. I was taken out to the vineyard where I was told that roses were more than just decorative for they acted as the first line of defence against attacks from fungus disease. This was followed by the sorting of grapes back in the winery, then the guide's explanation of wine making in broken English and some wine tasting. Today, tours have become much more sophisticated with millions of dollars being spent on tourism infrastructure and mini-van loads of tourists arriving all the time. The tours have also become more creative as competition heats up to win the hearts and tastes of the travellers that come from all corners of the globe to see how the Argentines turned the Malbec from a blending grape to its flagship wine. I had the pleasure of a private dinner at Catena Zapata with a few friends and the oenologists who helped to put Argentine wines on the world stage. Nicolas Catena-Zapata was one of the pioneers of quality wine in Argentina in the early 1990s and has never looked back. In fact, his daughter Laura continues the work her father began. As the US dollar and the Euro continue to stretch in Argentina, so do the vineyards. Now it seems as the number of wine visitors continue to grow so do the number of new wineries. Why not? Lunch or dinner at an A-class winery restaurant like that of O' Fournier in the Uco Valley or Catena Zapata in Lujan de Cuyo with breathtaking views of the snow-capped Andes as part of the dining experience, and the senses will be so bowled over that once back home in Vancouver, Canada or Berlin, Germany, visitors will want to buy the wine. Many usually carry a bottle or two with them. I did. And it's good business for the wineries. Back in Uruguay, the tours are as personalized as the tours I once took in the nascent years of wine tourism in Argentina. Every tour is still like my first. Enthusiasm has not faded every time I learn something new. Winemakers are so incredibly generous with their time and knowledge. The vineyards tend to be on a smaller scale in Uruguay. Tannat not Malbec is the flagship wine. However, I was able to find a fine, award-winning Torrontes in Montevideo. Like Argentina, beef is a staple and the robust Tannat complements a meal of grilled beef and vegetables perfectly. I don't think I've ever tasted sweeter vegetables anywhere than at Bodega Pisano. It was rustic and homey. I felt like part of the family.

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Tables turning on the UK food scene - Taste the difference! Oh how the tables have turned in the UK food scene! When I first went to London, the food was quite bland. Today, curry has replaced fish and chips as the most popular dish and now Michelin-star chefs are sprinkled across the British landscape cooking up creative meals that highlight British ingredients. Visitors to the UK can sample all this glorious food at festivals around the country. Where can you indulge? Feria de Londres brings a taste of Spain to London under the iconic Tower Bridge at Potters Fields Park from 27 to 28 May. This celebration of food, music and dance Andalusian style features tapas, barbecue seafood and meats as well as Spanish wines and cherries. You can dance away your cares with Flamenco artists from Spain and live music. Feria de Londres is FREE. This month, at the renowned RHS Chelsea Flower Show, expect to find a pop-up restaurant serving an exclusive afternoon tea courtesy the Dorchester’s head pastry chef, David Girard. The signature cake, ‘Premise of a Gardener’, designed in collaboration with designer florist, Philip Hammond, is a flowerpot filled with chocolate crumble, white chocolate and strawberries, and comes with a berry and hibiscus coulis served in a watering can. The Dorchester Afternoon Tea is served from 24 to 28 May. Combining food and music 100 feet above London is Proms on the Roof presented by the Roof Gardens in collaboration with the Royal College of Music. If you’re in town, go enjoy captivating classical music and gourmet food between 6:30 p.m. and 10:00 p.m., Wednesday 31 May. June is London Food Month, which comprise over 400 events around the city and includes a Night Market. Night Market runs from 7 to 18 June at Perks Field, Kensington. This is no ordinary market; we’re talking art installations and open-air cinema in addition to food and cocktails. Don’t miss foodie favourite Taste of London 2017 from 14 to 18 June. Chefs, restaurants and producers from every corner of the globe converge in Regent’s Park to take food enthusiasts to the next level. “Two Michelin-starred The Hand & Flowers chef patron Tom Kerridge, the mastermind of two Michelin-starred, self-titled restaurant in Rock, Cornwall, Nathan Outlaw, talented connoisseur of spice Thomasina Miers, and highly acclaimed Italian chef Francesco Mazzei to name but a few will showcase their skills at the new look AEG Taste Theatre in association with Etihad Airways where the audience will be able to contribute to, and taste their favourite chef’s dish.” Last time I was at Taste of London I spent too much time at the AEG Taste Theatre,sampled wine from Hungary, chocolates from Tobago and food from several of London’s finest restaurants. One day wasn’t enough for this food wonderland, which this year will feature 40 of London’s most exciting restaurants, The Balvenie Craftsmen’s Dinner Masterclass and Celebrity Cruise’s world tour of culinary delights. Isle of Wight Garlic Festival, which runs from the 19 to 20 August hails the garlic but also features other edible delights. It’s been over 30 years of garlic festivals on the Isle of Wight so they must be deliciously right. Their Garlic Farm won a gold medal at Hampton Court Palace Garden Show multiple times. Wight is a bit of a trek from England but this quirky festival sounds like one of a kind. There’ll be cooking demonstrations by famous local chefs and live entertainment. You’ll even find displays of classic cars, lorries, tractors, trains as well as archery. Don’t ask.

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Budget Happy Meaningful Travel

Always on the look out for ways to travel for free or at least next to nothing, I happened on a site that pairs travellers and hosts for a match that’s win win. Workaway.info is a site for the more open-minded traveller who wants a cultural immersion at a chosen destination. In the past, many backpackers and independent travellers who take extended vacations or sabbaticals would look for a place to stay in exchange for room and board when funds start to dwindle. Workaway.info gives them a place to look. The site’s philosophy is simple; “A few hours honest help per day in exchange for food and accommodation and an opportunity to learn about the local lifestyle and community with friendly hosts in varying situations and surroundings.” I spoke to David, the founder of Workaway and asked him what type of people sign up for Workaway and his answer came as a bit of a surprise. “A large part of our market are gap year travellers. But we are finding more and more sign ups from other age groups. Especially people in the 30s to 40s age group, who have become disillusioned with the rat race and are looking to fulfill their ambitions in a way that the 9 to 5 routine can’t give them. Also a surprising amount of retired people have also signed up. Hosts often look for experience and sharing skills is what Workaway is all about,” David stated. Workaway works on a membership basis where both hosts and travelers sign up to the site for a nominal fee. The hosts post their requirements and the workawayers/travellers contact hosts to make arrangements. I currently have my eyes on Spain because Europe is just too expensive a place for a low-budget traveller like myself. In fact, I was on my way to Spain when I took a detour to low-budget South America and haven’t reached Spain yet. Workaway looks like it can help me to finally get there. In exchange for a bit of gardening and light housekeeping, a workawayer enjoyed a free holiday in Southern Spain getting to know the locals and taking advantage of the good surf. One thing niggled at me though. How do I know the hosts aren’t strange or, for that matter of fact, will the hosts know if the workawayers are drug pushers? David says, “We authenticate emails and addresses but the responsibility is 100% on the host or travellers to check out where they are going to make contact, to have a telephone or Skype conversation before hand and to follow all the normal safety procedures taken whilst travelling.” In Argentina and Uruguay, I noticed the hosts were people with ranches or hostels that were looking for people to help out in exchange for a private room and the use of amenities while others were shared rooms. The work does not overshadow the holiday since only five hours of work is required five days a week. The rest of the time is free to get to know the families, learn a new language and truly get to know the country in a way that’s impossible if you stay on the tourist tour bus track.

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Dive in and change the climate

As I write this, hundreds of thousands of people around the globe are marching in support of science. Who’d have imagined in 2017 we’d have to fight against all those naysayers who say climate change isn’t real? I’m living the reality as I suffer through temperatures four degrees higher than they used to be when I was a child and there are heat warnings. But those marchers give me hope that there is a climate of change in the era of Trump. People who were quite content to sit back and let others fight their battles are marching for the first time. More and more travellers are using their holidays and hobbies to advance change. Dive Against Debris is one event that’s using diving to clean up our oceans. Today, Earth Day, PADI Ambassadiver and Marine Conservation Coordinator at Rainbow Reef Dive Center, Jack Fishman will host divers at the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary intent on cleaning up debris from outside the usual dive sites. When I asked Fishman who came up with the idea he said, “I came up with the idea with the help from Project AWARE’s ongoing efforts to increase awareness for marine debris issues and community participation in those endeavors.” The first dive was back in May 2016. Fishman continued, “Rainbow Reef Dive Center is an integral member of the diving community and we have the potential to reach hundreds of customers per day. With that reach it only made more sense to start reaching out to our divers for help with marine conservation projects happening here in the community!” Today’s event goes on until 7:00 p.m. (EST). However, you don’t need to wait for the next Earth Day to come around to dive for a cause that will make a difference for marine life and the general health of our oceans. Projects Aware is a global movement of scuba divers our ocean planet one dive at a time. For any divers who would like to participate in the vents, the cost of participation is the same as a normal dive trip ($140.00 of which $86.00 tax is included). Fishman explained, “The reason for this is we can gather the normal price to increase participation and use the silent auction and raffle prizes to gain massive donations for Project AWARE!” Can diving for debris truly make a dent in cleaning up our oceans? Fishman believes it has, “Finding anchors and large amounts of line outside the marine-protected areas has inspired me to raise awareness for proper and safe boating and fishing practices and to faithfully report to the proper authorities all damage done to fragile ecosystems. Now when we organize these events we have a solid understanding of where we may successfully remove the most debris.” If you’re in South Florida or plan on visiting the area and want to make a change, Dive Against America may be something to think about. Fishman believes, “Through the Dive Against Debris we can inspire people of every background, experience level and age to feel that they are making a worthy impact. Does picking up one candy wrapper make change, perhaps in a small way, but as attitudes change and more action is taken, that one candy wrapper can eventually turn into months of positive action! I get texts from my customers and staff all hours of the day about their efforts removing marine debris and trash, it warms my heart!”

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Holiday Travel with Special Needs Children Easter season is upon us. Today is our neighbourhood’s annual Easter Egg Hunt, which the kids really enjoy. Other neighbourhoods have Easter Bonnet parades. Some families fly off to other countries to celebrate while others flock to the gorgeous beaches of Tobago. To enjoy the holidays, preparation is essential. If you have a child with autism spectrum disorders or who is disabled, proper planning can be the difference between making this an exciting Easter or a chaotic one! Planning holiday travel can be a formidable task but ‘go brave’. The success of your plans rests in the details. Children with autism spectrum disorders tend to favour routine. Breaking their routine can cause a serious meltdown so involve them in the planning from the very beginning. If noise pushes all the wrong buttons, taking your child to the Walt Disney Easter Parade may not be your best bet. However, if you think it’s an event your child should experience, take earplugs with you. Easter time at Disney is magical for most children. Walt Disney World welcomes children with special needs. Make sure you head to Guest Relations as soon as you get to the Park and Present a doctor’s letter stating your child’s special needs. A guest relations officer will provide you with a Guest Assistance Card, which is a family pass to special treatment that allows families with autistic children to wait in uncrowded areas apart from the throng. A 12 step approach to planning for the big event may help you and your family squash the obstacles and be better prepared for the unexpected. Maybe you can create the 12 Days of Easter (with Easter eggs) to make planning fun. Once the destination is decided, start warming your autistic child to the idea. By the way this works for children in general. The first step is to get a DVD from the tourist board or watch the one on the website. Prepare your kids for all the fun they will have. The second step is to choose an accommodation that will cater to your child’s special needs. You may need a fridge in the room to store meds for your child. A villa, apartment rental or small B&B can usually accommodate special needs more easily. These are also less crowded and budget friendly. The third step is to inform the people or relatives where you’re going to stay of your child’s special needs. If your child is on a gluten free/casein free diet, you may have to pack some of your child’s favourite foods. If your child is wheelchair bound, make sure you stay at a place that has wheelchair access throughout the facility and not just the lobby. Prepare your kids for all the fun they will have. The fourth step is to prepare for the ride, whether by plane, boat or car. A few friends who have children with autism have recommended travelling with comfort food and favourite toys. An iPad with favourite apps is one that soothes almost all stressful situations for the autistic child of one of my friends. Tell social stories to explain what to do at immigration and customs. Ask your child’s paediatrician for a letter to present at customs. The fifth step is to prepare your child with an autism spectrum disorder to receive gifts and prepare the gift-givers to keep the gifts simple. I read where one parent told friends not to give gifts because it was sensory overload for her child. Many children enjoy the opening of the gifts but that’s where the fun ends. The sixth step is to keep the itinerary simple. Don’t try to crowd the days with activities. One or two events each day is generally all a child with autism can handle. It’s more relaxing for everyone. It is a vacation, after all. The seventh step is to have practice sessions for Easter gift exchanges (for those who give gifts at Easter). By the time Easter comes around, your child will know what to expect and this should help increase the fun factor. The eighth step is to be flexible. If after the best laid plans are made, your child still has a melt down, take a deep breath. Tell those around, your child is having a bad day. Return to your accommodation, whip out the iPad and relax by the pool for some fun downtime. The ninth step is to make sure that you maintain a routine even on holiday. The whole family will have more fun for it. Tenth step is to choose ‘off time’ for visits to popular sites. Sunday morning may be a better bet than the afternoon for a visit to the caves. The eleventh step is to start packing, making sure the first aid checklist is met. The twelfth step is to have patience and always be prepared for the unexpected. Enjoy Easter travels and holidaymaking with your children who have special needs.

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Don’t fly upside down on a full stomach

Flying sideways or almost upside down may not be everyone’s idea of fun, but for the best view of the famous Nasca Lines, it is par for the course. Of course, no one told me before I went up. My friend did warn me to take travel pills because the flight can get bumpy but my flight was never bumpy. The pilot’s skills were unquestionable as he dipped and glided across the sky like a salsa dancer in a ballroom competition. Nasca is still an unsolved mystery since all the theories put forward by the experts thus far are just that—theories. Talk to the locals and they’ll give you different explanations too. But did anyone ever consider this just might have been a giant canvas for the Nasca people between 200 BC and 700 AD? Nasca is a desert in the sun-drenched Pampas de Jumana, which is a six hour bus ride from Lima, Peru though it felt like ten. The small town reminded me of the old westerns where the dust whipped around the cowboys as they walked or rode up Main Street. Scenes from Bonanza and High Chaparral come to mind, but instead of horses there are old cars and a beautiful main square. The town wasn’t windy just very dusty. There’s no 1800s gold rush but they do mine gold in these parts. And the only mystery I solved was the origin of some Peruvian pottery I had at home. But the town was as fascinating as the lines depicting an astronaut, whale, hummingbird, monkey, hands and several other drawings that have covered the earth for centuries. Did the Nasca people have great imaginations or did they see an astronaut way back then? That’s for the scientists to decide. Some say they may be astronomical signs. Nasca is a great way to break up the journey between the capital city of Lima and Peru’s second largest city, Arequipa. Most people spend a day and move on but there’s enough to do here in a two day visit. I visited a couple places where they make pottery in the Nasca tradition. The designs mimic the lines that are also reflected in the jewellery. The Marie Reiche Museum, named after the Nasca researcher with the astronomical theory, along with the working mine company that gives visitors a peak at how gold is mined and prepared are worth a visit. Sandboarding in the dunes is popular among the adventure youth. There is the cemetery with the mummies and the hilltop look out to view the lines. But nothing tops a plane ride over the Nasca lines. I did heed my friend’s advice not to eat anything before my flight, but I did drink a cup of tea an hour and a half before. Having flown in small planes on several occasions without any mishap, I never imagined that I would feel queasy. In order to truly appreciate the magnificent shapes on the ground that stretch over several hundred square kilometers, some fancy maneuvering was required. In one swoop for a better view, I felt the tea come all the way up to my throat and remember praying for it to go back to where it came from rather than out the opposite direction. Fortunately, my prayers were answered and I received a certificate for my flight across the UNESCO Cultural Heritage site of mysterious drawings at Nasca.

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Bolivia’s Coca Museum: Coca Cola, Cocaine and Culture

La Paz, Bolivia has the distinction of being the highest capital in the world.It is also the only place you will find a museum dedicated to the coca plant which became controversial when the Spaniards arrived and even more so in the twentieth century in the war against drugs.Bolivia’s President Evo Morales was himself once a coca farmer. But what the Catholic Church called “The Devil’s Weed” in the sixteenth century has been part of Andean culture since 2500 BC. The Coca Museum, which takes a studied look at the history of the coca plant, traditions surrounding it to the medicinal and nutritional value of the plant that spawned cocaine. I had my share of mate (pronounced mah-tay), a tea brewed from coca leaves, to help me with the high altitude of Quito. No, one cannot become addicted to coca tea. But it does help in the adjustment to high altitudes. My doctor and a friend suggested an oxygen machine should the need arise for they told me there was no way of knowing in advance who would be able to function at high altitudes and who wouldn’t. I chose the indigenous route.After all, they’ve been doing it for thousands of years and it works. One of the signs of altitude sickness is headaches. I felt like an old woman, exhausted after climbing a flight of stairs. In my first week, I could do very little without getting tired, I did get headaches and breathing was difficult. After three months it was life as usual, so by the time I arrived in La Paz, 3,660m above sea level (12,00ft), the height didn’t register. There was a period during the Colonial era that coca leaves escalated in value and was used for trading instead of gold and silver. However, for the indigenous people of the Andes, coca is a visiting card and part of the fabric of social life for indigenous Bolivians. Coca is also used as a stimulant and for a host of other ailments. I remember a Boliviano telling me that chewing coca leaves helped them to work harder when they had to and relax better at the end of the day. On the museum’s website and at the museum documentation shows: “It is certain that the ingestion of the juice exerts an anesthetic effect on the lower intestinal tract and at the systemic level. This would explain the custom in Andean countries to chew coca leaves or take coca infusion to alleviate pain over a wide range: headaches, toothaches, intestinal cramps, etc. Its use is frequent as a dressing topically applied on the painful areas, for instance in the area of a broken bone or arthritis.” It was not until 1859 that the west discovered the cocaine properties of the coca leaf. It was the wonder drug that deadened pain during oral surgeries. How did cocaine go from being a respected pharmaceutical to demon pill that took over souls? You’ll have to go to the museum or check out the website to know.

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The most valuable chart…