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Hanhart Racemaster GTM | Hands-On Review

Hanhart Racemaster GTM

It is no secret that I have a soft spot for Hanhart Watches. This Hanhart Racemaster GTM is no different. I have long been saying that Hahhart makes not only amazing watches but the value is incredible and this latest model I am reviewing only reaffirms that. This model is more expensive than most Hanhart watches but that does not mean you are not getting any less, if anything, you are getting more than you pay for. I have wanted to get this watch in my hands for quite some time and as you can probably already guess, I was not disappointed. While this watch is not the typical dive watch and a little larger than I normally wear at 45mm, it is easily one of my favorite watches and one of my favorite Hanhart pieces as well.

Hanhart Racemaster GTM Specifications:

45mm HDSPro Hardened Case

16mm Thick

24mm Lug Width

53mm Lug to Lug

Modified 7750 Automatic Movenent-(Hanhart 4212)

42 Hour Power Reserve

Convex Sapphire Crystal

100 Meters Water Resistant

Racing Calfskin Leather Strap with Red Backing

Price at Watchbuys $3,260

https://www.watchbuys.com/store/pc/Hanhart-Racemaster-GTM-Single-Button-Chronograph-p2143.htm

Hanhart Website:

https://www.hanhart.com/en/

There are 3 versions of the Hanhart Racemaster but the GTM is a little different as it is the only monopusher, meaning only one chronograph button, and of course, it is the famous anodized aluminum button that Hanhart is known for. All versions are made of HDSPro Hardened Steel, which makes this model much more scratch resistant than regular stainless steel. It is also 3 times harder than 316L Stainless Steel and Nickel free. Being 45mm and 16mm thick, it is easy to knock this watch around, so it is good to know it can take more abuse than others. As usual, the machining and finishing are impeccable, and I would expect nothing less. Everywhere you look and this watch is just absolutely beautiful. $3,000 (or more in this case) is not chump change and a lot of money for many to spend on a watch but this is one of those watches that you really can see where your money went and it feels like more of a $5,000 watch in every way.

Obviously, at this price tag, most expect a better than average movement and that is what you will find in the Racemaster GTM. Each version of the Racemaster has its own unique movement and in this case is the Hanhart 4212, a Valjoux 7750 specifically modified to accommodate the single pusher chronograph. Unlike a lot of watches that choose to show off their movement with an exhibition case back but Hanhart decided to go with a gorgeous solid case back that shows off their racing heritage with the crossed checkered flags.

The dial of the Racemasters is unique in that the subdial registers are pushed all the ways to the edge of the dial and it is a different look than most chronograph watches I have come across. All variants in the Racemaster series have a red hour and minute hand, despite having different color minute scales. The blue minute scale on the GTM is without a doubt my favorite. Normally a black dial, blue ring, and red hands would not be my first choice, but with this watch, it just works. The dial is clean, crisp and easy to read, and of course, the single pusher Chrono button makes it easy to use as well.

Comfort is important for me when it comes to wristwatches and these days I really like maximum comfort. If a watch looks great but after an hour I find it to be cumbersome or just plain uncomfortable, it negates everything else. That is not the case with this watch at all. Despite it being larger than I wear these days, I find the GTM to be fantastic on the wrist. The racing style leather strap is made of premium leather, wraps around the wrist like butter and for a nice little touch, has a red leather backing; a great subtle detail. Another nice touch is the custom stainless buckle. It isn’t anything outlandish or crazy but is not a standard thumbnail buckle either.

While the lume on this model is not going to compete with any dive watch, I was surprised it had any lume at all. As you can see below, if you need to tell the time in the dark with the Hanhart Racemaster GTM, it shouldn’t be an issue.

This really is one of those watches I can go on and on about. There is just so much detail to look at an admire and while it is a little flashy and not a pilot or field watch, the Racemaster pays tribute to the motor racing Hanhart was associated with in the 60s and 70s. For me though, while this is a racing-inspired watch, it is not over the top or gimmicky in its design, which allows it to be worn for many different occasions, including just every day casual wear. This is flat out a striking watch that should be worn and not left in the watch box.

I have another Hanhart in hand for review as well, a Pioneer TwinControl Chronograph with a gorgeous cream dial that will be published in the coming months, but for me, this Racemaster GTM is where it is at. This model and the Pioneer One are definitely my favorites from the Hanhart lineup, at least currently. This watch has it all, a unique modified movement, hardened steel, great colors, superb finishing, a fantastic strap, convex sapphire crystal and much more. This is a watch to not only be worn but to be appreciated and passed down to someone as a family heirloom.

The post Hanhart Racemaster GTM | Hands-On Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Vero Watches SW | Hands-on Review

Vero Watches SW

American watchmaking used to be very prominent but as many things do, that changed and for the most part, was a thing of the past, that is up until the past 8 years or so. Many brands, especially start-up or microbrands are assembling their watches in the USA, including brands like Nodus and Lum-tec. A few brands are actually machining the cases and even making movements in the US, most notably Weiss and RGM. Somewhere in the middle is the Vero Watches SW, one of 3 models made by the Portland, Oregon brand. The watch cases are machined in Portland, as well as the dials and hands. The crystal, movement, and strap are outsourced, but all assembly takes place in Oregon as well. While not fully made in the USA, it is a step in the right direction and a path to a full American-made watch.

Vero Watches SW Specifications:

41mm Machined in USA Case

22mm Lug  Width

11.5mm thick

46mm Lug to Lug

Sapphire Crystal

Sellita SW200 Automatic Movement

200 Meters WR

Silicone Fitted Strap

Price $1650 USD 

https://vero-watch.com/collections/sw

At first glance, the Vero Watches SW looks like a standard sports watch, and for the most part, it is. As you turn the watch though, that is where you see its sleek curved profile. The curved case not only adds to the aesthetic but allows the watch to wrap around your wrist. The SW is thin and coming in at 41mm can be worn by most anyone, even those with small wrists. It also allows for it to be worn easily under any shirt or jacket cuff and because of the silicone strap, the entire watch is very lightweight, to the point you will forget you wearing it, much like a classic square G-Shock.

The intent behind the Vero Watches SW I believe is to be an all-around sports watch, one that could act as a field watch, your weekend watch and your casual watch all in one. While the fitted silicone strap looks good, a nice leather strap would probably look even better. More on the strap in a bit. The case machining is beautiful, especially the satin finishing on the sides, and to give a little contrast, a high polish on the top. For me, I would prefer an all brushed case or even a bead blasted case, not only would it reduce fingerprints but would also give it a more “tool” like appearance.

The dial is familiar and not very distinctive, but the is made completely in Vero’s workshop. Nickel plated brass, coated in black ceramic with a nice subtle texture. Keeping things clean and simple, the hands are white and black and a dark orange second hand gives some much-needed contrast. The website states the numbers and markers are printed 6 times, unfortunately, they are only printed in white and do not have any lume. The hour and minute hand are lumed and glow decently well, but I feel it was a missed opportunity to not at least lume the larger Arabic numerals.

Powering the Vero is the Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement, a movement we have seen in many upstart and microbrands all the way to watches brands such as Oris, Christopher Ward, and many others. This watch does not show off the movement but rather highlights their matching capabilities with a really sleek case back that reminds me of something you would see on a military airplane. Notice it is held down with screws. This is interesting to me if for nothing else than this watch is also 200 meters water resistant and it is achieving that without a screw down case back or crown. Speaking of the crown, while it does not screw into the case, it does sit mostly flush until you pop it out and the aggressive knurling allows for easy time setting.

As I stated earlier, this Vero Watches SW feels great on the wrist and has a nice comfortable profile. There is an issue with the strap though, beyond it just showing all the lint or dirt it catches. It is a pain in the ass to put back on. There is just no other way to say it. Drilled lugs or even quick change pins would have made this a lot easier, but I will caution everyone and say, if you like the silicone straps, just leave it on, or if you must switch it out to something else, do not plan on putting the silicone back on for a considerable time. You just do not want the constant aggravation.

As many know if you read or watch my reviews, I do not mince words. This is a review after all. The biggest selling point to this Vero Watch is the fact that a good portion of the watch is being made right here in the good ol’ USA. Not just a strap or a small part, but the case and dial. That is a pretty big deal in my book. Now, for some, it may not mean that much, but bringing any kind of manufacturing back to the USA is a good thing and while Vero is still a small company, who knows where this can lead to. This particular watch is not really my style and as such, not something I would regularly wear. I can tell a lot of time and money went into producing this watch and for that I commend them. That is no small feat to actually bring this to market. It is just not my style, but they all cant be and I would be lying to you if I said they were. That said, it is a cool looking watch and yes, I think some improvements can be made going forward but I appreciate what they have done and look forward to seeing many more models from them in the future.

The post Vero Watches SW | Hands-on Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Hands-on With The Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph

Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph

A Swiss Army was one of my first “real” watches, purchased from a now-defunct jewelry store back in the early ’90s. It was a Calvary model, and it was about $100. Prices have sure gone up since then and the watches are no longer branded Swiss Army as we all know, but now Victorinox. The brand still holds a special place in my heart and while I have liked many of the models in recent years such as the Inox, the Divemaster and more, this Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph is one that I like way more than I thought I would have.

Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph Specifications:

44mm Gunmetal PVD Stainless Steel Case

51mm Lug to Lug

21mm Lug Width

13.5mm Thick

Sapphire Crystal

Swiss Ronda 5030D Quartz Movement

100M Water Resistant

Rubber Strap

Retail Price $495

https://www.swissarmy.com/us/en/Products/Watches/Mens-Watches/Alliance-Sport-Chronograph/p/241818

At 44mm with a length of 51mm, on paper, it is a little large than I like these days but specifications are just that. They do not tell the whole story. Watches are all made different and the Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph wears comfortable on my 7 1/2 inch wrist. Part of that is due to it not being very thick and part of that is due to the simple and sleek case design. The style is very straightforward, as are most Swiss Army watches and this one has a classic but modern feel.

One of my favorite aspects of this Swiss Army is the grey dial. It is a unique color of grey, not really a silver grey or a charcoal grey, almost like a clay color. Until I was reading on the website I did not realize that the markers are meant to mimic the shape of a Swiss Army knife, which of course is just an oblong shape, but still something I found interesting. The color of the lume on the markers and hands has a mint hue, something that just works well with the grey dial and the red accents. Overall this is not a color combination normally seen, but all seem to play well together.

Being dubbed the Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph, Swiss Army apparently is taking the Sport part of the name to market it towards athletes and hikers alike. And I understand, you need to market all you can these days. That said, this is far from the first chronograph watch with a tachymeter scale. The movement is also pretty standard as well, being a Ronda 5030D. In fairness, this watch retails for $495 and I am sure can be found cheaper if you do a search online, and the dial intricacy and overall feel will probably outweigh the rather pedestrian quartz movement when most buyers are looking at it.

Of course, there always has to be something. As much as I really like the Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph, and the dial really has such nice detail and depth, that date placement is a no go for me. The cutout has a nice bevel to it but beyond that, it is in that horrible no man’s land as I like to call it. I just will never understand when designing a watch why anyone would think that looks good on the dial, especially on a chronograph. At the very least, a white on black date wheel would have allowed it to blend it in a little bit better and not be such an eyesore.

The strap on the other hand is one of my favorites of this particular version of the Alliance Chronograph. I have not seen the other variations of this model in person but the gunmetal PVD case with the grey dial and this rubber strap made it the clear choice. Unlike some of the Inox rubber straps that can be a little stiff, this vintage style with vent holes is extremely comfortable and pliable and allow the watch to wrap around the wrist. It has made it into the top 5 of my favorite rubber straps, which includes the likes of Isofrane and Hirsch.

One area that I am usually disappointed with when it comes to recent Swiss Army models is the lume, or lack thereof. Even though this is not a dive watch, the lume is much better than the multiple Inox models I have reviewed and that is probably due to the large surface area of the markers, though I would say they are just filled better as well and not spotty or grainy like some I have seen. The glow is nice and bright and will last through most of the night.

I know some will just outright scoff at the fact that this is a quartz watch and some might even remark why would I even review it. That is their prerogative of course but I do not understand is being that closeminded. We all have our own likes and dislikes but sometimes quartz is just looked at as a bad word in the watch collecting community and I have always felt quartz watches have their place. Yes, I have reviewed some microbrands that use automatic movements (non-chronographs) and even some that use mecha-quartz movements as well, at this same price and sometimes even cheaper. This Alliance Chronograph has a lot of other things going for it, to the nice click of the Chrono buttons, the intricate dial and just very good build quality and finishing. It’s a great grab and go sport watch and one of my favorite releases from the current lineup of Victorinox.

The post Hands-on With The Victorinox Alliance Sport Chronograph appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Outsiders Revolution | Hands-On Watch Review

Outsiders Revolution

Today, we are going to veer off the normal review path a little. I am sure many know that Baselworld is almost over at the time of publication and Outsiders Watches apparently made a spectacle at the watch fair, or so they have said. Their first watch, the Outsiders Revolution diver is a $500 Swiss Made Submariner style homage and there is a lot to delve into when it comes to this brand and their marketing tactics. Now, let me get this out of the way. Business, in general, is hard and at this price in the watch world is a very competitive game and you need all the edge you can get. There is nothing wrong with that, but the issue usually is the product does not live up to to the hype. I will comment at the end of this review if I think it does, in fact, live up to the hype or not, but l am going to lay out some of their most recent events and they happened to coincide when I am writing this review.

Outsiders Revolution Specifications:

43mm Case Width

22mm Bracelet

13.5mm thick

51mm Lug to Lug

Stainless Steel Case

Blue or Black Dial

Ceramic Bezel Insert

Screw Down Crown

Sapphire Crystal

ETA 2824-2 Automatic Movement

300 Meters Water Resistant

BGW9 Superluminova

Price $499 USD 

https://outsiderswatches.com/#

If you have been buying and collecting microbrand watches for a good few years, have bought off Kickstarter or even just watched a good old fashion infomercial, you have seen the style of marketing that Outsiders Watches employs. It’s over the top, it is usually too good to be true and it is what it is-audacious marketing. That is what I am witnessing with Outsiders. When I first came across the brand on Instagram, I somewhat overlooked the marketing tag lines because I have seen it before, so I decided to hold judgment on the watch until I got it in hand. I always try and stay as objective as possible. The watch itself, nothing really wrong with it and I would not put it in the category of cheap trash either, far from it. Doing research through while getting ready to do the review, it was hard to overlook just how over the top they are going being though. I mean, let’s be perfectly clear here, this is not the first watch to be marked Swiss Made and sold for $500. Hell, Invicta used to do it all the time, and they had very similar marketing lingo to go along with it.

If you read and watch our reviews here at Watchreport frequently (and hopefully are subscribed to our Youtube channel), you know that most of the time the video is recorded before the written article is done. This is done for many reasons, but mostly just how it is organized with the volume of watches that come in for review and how we have set it up. Normally, that really does not matter, but in this case, in the time between the video was done and today, the brand appeared at Baselworld. Posts on their Instagram feed were showing that they were giving out free watches to Baselworld attendees and I even saw a member of one of the Facebook watch groups I frequent post that he was one of the recipients. They legit were giving away their watches. I do not how many they allotted o give way, but I imagine a decent amount of people were game for it if nothing else than just sheer curiosity. I imagine it put some eyes on the Outsider Revolution.

Well, apparently, someone at Baselworld did not like this and called the police to escort the team out of the building and out of Baselworld. Now, I was not at Basel, so I am not sure how much of this is true and how much of this is more over the top marketing. I have not reached out to the brand for clarification and have not really seen anyone else posting about it online, save for the one individual who said he got a free watch. Giving out free watches at a massive fair such as Baselworld when you are a new brand is not such a bad idea at all. You have press there, watch journalists, watch enthusiasts etc. That is not bad marketing at all. How true it is that they were thrown out of the building? I am not sure. Maybe more will come out about this in the following days.

If you haven’t head over to their website yet, let me copy and paste some of what is posted on the Outsiders website about their company and the Outsiders Revolution diver:

” THE TRUTH.

Did you know that the $2,500 “Brand Name” watch you’ve seen in that fancy magazine ad didn’t cost more than $250 to make?

THE TEAM.

We’re a group of Swiss watchmakers and entrepreneurs who are fed up with the way things are.

We’re not paying a cent to all of the greedy middlemen who take their cut before you can get your hands on a Swiss made watch.

We are selling directly to you, and we’re taking all of those savings and passing them right on back to the person that deserves it the most.  “

That was just a snippet of what the Outsiders Website is filled with. Here’s the thing, the majority of us watch enthusiasts will laugh at most of that copy and I believe it is geared to the uninformed. Now again, from a business standpoint, it is a good strategy. Some folks may just find it insulting though. Hows the watch you ask? Well, if you have not watched the video yet, it is a nice watch. It is attractive, has some heft to it, a good movement, decent lume, and functions as it should. I do not like the proprietary bracelet and feel they are shooting themselves in the foot with that as I know many who love to wear and change out watch straps and that, of course, is a no go with the Outsiders Revolution. I imagine they wanted to do something just a little bit different, but I think that was the wrong choice.

So who are the guys behind the Outsiders brand? I am not sure, but I guess some of the attendees at Baselworld found out recently.  Are they starting a revolution? Are they upsetting the watch industry?  No. No, they are not. Are they making a nice watch at an affordable price? Yes. I know that might not be the catchiest slogan, but it is grounded in truth. Checking their website currently, it seems that you can get the Revolution for even cheaper, 20% off, in fact, using the code BaselPolice at checkout. Looks like they will ride that one as long as they can. That would bring the price down much closer to the $400 mark, making it a nice option for someone wanting a solid ETA based dive watch.

The post Outsiders Revolution | Hands-On Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Zelos ZX Chronograph | Hands-on Review

Zelos ZX Chronograph

With so many new microbrands these days, you would think some older brands such as Zelos would get lost in the shuffle. Taking a look at this Zelos ZX Chronograph and how many of them have already sold out, you can see that is not the case. Zelos and its owner Elshan has continued to push forward and he keeps coming out with new designs and believe it or not, this is actually their first chronograph but hopefully not the last. The version I have in hand has the meteorite dial and is the Valjoux 7750 Automatic version, but there are many non-meteorite versions and Mecha-Quartz options as well.

Zelos ZX Chronograph Specifications:

Size: 43mm Diameter. 16mm Height. 49mm Lug to Lug 22MM Lugs

Water Resistance: 100m.

Watch case: CUSN8 Marine Bronze or Titanium Case – Mirror polished edges and Brushed Sides.

Ceramic Bezel (Selected models only): Zirconium Oxide 1500 Vickers hardness.

Movement: Swiss ETA 7750 Elabore Grade or Seiko VK67 Mechaquartz.

Crystal: Domed Sapphire Crystal with inner AR coating. Sapphire crystal case back.

Dial: Multi-Layered filled with BGW9 lume.

Strap: Horween Leather

Warranty: 1 Year.

Price $1,099 USD (Meteorite Automatic as shown)

https://zeloswatches.com/collections/zx-chronograph

Zelos really went all out with their first chronograph-titanium or bronze case, multiple dial options, including a piece of the SR-71 Blackbird (now sold out), meteorite as pictured here and sunray dial options as well. This version has blued hands and applied markers, and very unique crown and pushers. The great thing about Zelos is that most of their watches never really resemble another brand. They are constantly working on new designs and while you can always find similarities between watches, this ZX chronograph is in no way an homage.

When looking around the titanium case you can see just how well finished this watch really is. Not only are there multiple finishes as play here with the high polished and brushed titanium, but you can see and feel how beautiful this is. The grain on the satin finish is thin and tight and all around the entire case, I could not find one sharp edge. The crown operates as it should, it is just a tad hard to grasp due to the shape, but it is large enough that is not a real issue, at least not one to really gripe about. The pushers, on the other hand, are a little spongey. You have to give a hard push on them before they will click and activate or stop/reset the chronograph. That is really my one and only issue with the ZX Chronograph. I just wish the pushers had more of an instant click.

Meteorite dials used to be very rare, these days, I think too many brands are offering them, and it definitely makes them less unique. That said, it does look great on this watch and this example has some great striations and texture to it. Zelos was also smart to keep this dial as clean as possible. Chronographs are already busy and loading up on dial text would just take away from the beauty of the meteorite, so you will not find a date, and only the Zelos logo and brand text on the dial. Keeping with the theme of this watch, the hands are rocket shaped, which is a nice little touch.

The automatic versions of the Zelos ZX Chronograph use an Elabore Valjoux 7750 movement, and you can see this through the exhibition case back. Not only are you getting better than a standard grade movement, but Zelos has gone ahead and added a custom rotor as well, something that is common these days, but unlike so many did not decide to call it a modified movement or give it its own special caliber number. It is what it is, an Elabore 7750. I always feel that is misleading when companies do that, they word it in a way to make it seem like it is a special or in house movement when all they did was put on a different rotor.

Because of the short lug to lug, the ZX Chronograph wears really nice on the wrist, despite being 16mm thick. Two straps are included, one brown horween and one black leather, the latter being more of a traditional pilot style strap, minus the rivets. This watch would probably look great on many different types of straps, and I would love to see how it looks on a dark grey or blue canvas. Check it out below on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Zelos has never been one to be weak in the lume category and this model uses BGW9 Superluminova. Unlike some models they have done in the past, this one does not have dual color lume, but it is still nice and bright, though I would like to see the hour and minute hand have a wider track for more lume to be applied to, though that might have really messed with the design. Still, you will not have any issues seeing this watch in the dark.  Don’t worry, the crown is lumed also, something Zelos has become quite known for in recent models and while it does nothing to help read the time in the dark, it does have a “cool” factor about it.

The ZX Chronograph is another winner from Zelos and that does not surprise me. I had no doubt from when I first saw it in photos it would be a killer watch, and getting it in hand has only confirmed that for me. I love how they designed this pilot watch using an actual plane as a reference and also how it is offered in so many different configurations. Not only do all the versions look different, they are at different prices as well, giving the consumer the ability to get the exact same case and dial but at a much lower price if they chose the Mecha-Quartz options. Zelos also continues to strive to offer many different styles of watches, pilot, diver, dress watches and even ones that are a little funky and I am not sure what category to put them into. As usual, I am not here to sell you a watch but I will say if you are interested in one of these models, act fast. Zelos watches tend not to stay on their website very long, much like Halios Watches. They have a rabid following and it is easy to see why.

The post Zelos ZX Chronograph | Hands-on Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Rebel Aquafin Diver | Hands-on Review

Rebel Aquafin

The Rebel Aquafin was a Kickstarter funded that funded back in 2017, though watches did not start to ship really till December of 2018. I am not sure what issues in manufacturing that the brand had, but the watch did finally start reaching the customers who backed early. Kickstarter is usually a place where you can get a really good price on a watch, after all, you are helping to fund the most if not all of the production. It is basically a preorder, or at least this is what most watch brands use the platform for these days. The price on this one though, was pretty low, somewhere around $450 for early bird specials. When you read the specs and look at the watch, that was a pretty good deal. Retail price was said to be $799; I am not sure what happened once the campaign ended and the watches started shipping, but today’s price on the Rebel Time site is $1200.

Rebel Aquafin Specifications:

42mm Case Width (46mm with Crowns)

48mm Lug to Lug

13.5mm Thick

20mm Lug Width

Black DLC Coated Case

Saphire Crytal

Sellita SW-200 Automatic Movement

Steel Bracelet and Rubber Strap

Price $1200

https://rebeltime.com/

Because of that current price tag, that is how I have to look at this watch. It is not a $450 watch, nor an $800 watch, but a $1200 watch. I have to say, the Rebel Aquafin has some good things going for it, but there are a few aspects that I have to bring attention to that make me a question that high price tag. If you have watched the video already, you might know some of them, and the specs are above, so no need to bore you with those again. On paper, this is a very nice watch. In person, there are many nice things about it. Let’s start off with the case. The milling on the sides of the case while not unique is a nice touch and adds some dimension to this diver and I like how the crowns screw down into pockets of the case, it is smooth looking and a good design choice. The writing on the crowns though, that was not a good choice. It makes the watch come off as gimmicky.

The wave dial is attractive and the dial has sort of an oily appearance, it is a deep glossy black, and I like it. The problem is, as you can see in my photos, video and real life, the dial is just hard to see most of the time. The domed sapphire crystal really causes so much glare that it gets infuriating, especially while trying to photograph. Putting photography aside, just looking down at it, you do not see that nice dial, nor do you see that logo. The choice of a metal shield for the logo was not a good one, it gets blocked out by the crystal and glare constantly. I  am not sure if the crystal is solely to blame or it is a combination of everything, but this dial is def, not easy to read at a glance. Because of that domed crystal, maybe it is much clearer when in the water, but I did not get a chance to check that out.

But Don, this is a dive watch, what do you mean you did not go diving with it, or at least in the pool. Listen, If I had the time to go diving or in the pool on a weekly basis, that would be awesome. Unfortunately, I do not. The other factor at hand here is I would bet the majority of the guys that are buying these microbrand divers are not going in the pool or diving with them either. This may be a great diving companion and look great underwater, I will probably never know, but a company should know their market as well. Having to move your wrist around to catch the right angle to see the time, can be frustrating.

Now, the Rebel Aquafin is by no means all bad. Far from it. The crystal glare and crown text are not for me, but when you strap it on the wrist, it looks good and is very comfortable, especially on the rubber strap. The dial, when you get really up close, is well made. The case cutouts are pretty clean, meaning they do not have any rough spots and there are some small things they have done that shows someone had a good eye for detail. Take a look at the cutouts on the bezel for the hex screws. Look at how they match up perfectly with the two crowns. There is a possibility that this was nothing more than a happy coincidence, I don’t know, but I’ll give the benefit of the doubt and say it was done on purpose.

Powering the Aquafin is the SW-200 from Sellita, which as most know by now is a clone of the ETA 2824. My example has been keeping pretty good time, about 5 seconds slow a day over a 6 day period, which is not bad at all. Some people have mentioned issues with winding, or lack of when pulling the crown to the first position. I have not had that issue, so I can not comment on that. I have heard from a few other owners of this Rebel watch that their lume is not very bright or long lasting, and somewhat unevenly coated, again, not on my particular example.

The Rebel Aquafin also comes with a DLC (?) coated stainless steel link bracelet. While no picture of it here in the written review, please make sure to watch the video, where I give a real good look at it. The bracelet just feels cheap, like an afterthought and was coated after it was assembled, which does not coat the bracelet completely, especially in between the links. Of course, you do not need to wear the bracelet and can just wear it on the rubber strap, or even a strap of your own. That is very true. The fact that they are giving you both should be a good thing, right? Well, not one when one of them is sub-par. $1200 is not throw away money for most people and the bracelet should not be a throwaway one either.

I really wanted to like this watch. I followed them back in 2017 and watched the initial renderings, the progress shots etc. I wished them nothing but the best of luck, and fortunately for them, they were successfully funded. For me, the Rebel Aquafin had a lot of promise and it just did not live up to its expectations. No other way to say it. If you got in at under $500, it was a pretty good deal, I will not lie, even with the bracelet issue. At the current pricing, it is a lot to ask. The bottom line here is that I always give my real thoughts and opinions, good or bad, and the Rebel Aqufin leans to the latter, unfortunately.

The post Rebel Aquafin Diver | Hands-on Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

BOLDR Globetrotter GMT | Hands-On Review

BOLDR Globetrotter GMT

If the BOLDR Globetrotter GMT looks somewhat familiar to you, that would be because it is an evolution of the BOLDR Odyessy, a watch I reviewed HERE last year. The Odyessy was a very nice watch, but a little on the large size for myself and others, and also a little more fashion over function, at least for me. The Globetrotter is smaller in diameter but also has quite a few changes that include the crown, bezel, dial, and even the strap. While the two watches share the same case style, they really are two different watches in my opinion and the GMT is the clear winner.

 BOLDR Globetrotter GMT Specifications:

44M Case Width

14.5MM Thick

50mm Lug to Lug

22mm Lug Width

300 Meters Water Resistant

Sapphire Crystal

Dual Colored Ceramic Bezel Insert

Swiss ETA 2893-2 Elabore-grade automatic movement with independent adjustable GMT-hands

Rubber Strap With Dive Clasp

Price: $799

Save 10% Using code Watchreport10 at checkout on the BOLDR Website:

Yes, the Globetrotter is a fresh new take on BOLDR’s previous design and one that I am very fond of. This new GMT model comes in a few variations, but I have to say the Pepsi version is my favorite. If it is not yours though, check out their site for the Batman version (black and blue bezel) or the World Time bezel variations. The red and blue bezel is ceramic, and while Rolex popularized the Pepsi GMT,  I think the red and blue colors are a much better hue and much more vibrant than the latest Jubilee version.

The BOLDR Globetrotter GMT comes in at 44mm and that might not sound like a big difference from the 45.5mm Odyssey, but the combination of a slightly smaller diameter and the crown at the 4 o’clock positions instead of 3, really does make a difference. The previous model wore large on my 7 1/2 inch wrist and felt somewhat bulky. This model also comes with a fitted rubber strap that helps it mold to the wrist, so that is a nice change as well, although I do have some issues with the rubber strap I will get to in a moment.

The Globetrotter comes in a pelican style hard case-this is nothing really new for dive watches, especially from microbrands such as BOLDR. What is a little odd is that the rubber strap, buckle and watch head are all separate, as you see below. Putting them all together is not exactly difficult, but when you add in the fact that you have to then cut to size the rubber strap, and the strap itself is gigantic, it is a little time-consuming. I am not sure the reasoning for this, and while they do include the tool to help you with this, I do not think many people will enjoy finishing the last part of the assembly on their own. If you do not like the rubber strap, any 22mm strap that you have would look great on this watch, I personally think an Isofrane or similar would be perfect.

There are really only two things that the BOLDR Globetrotter GMT shares with its sibling the Odysees and that is the case style and the hour and minute hand. Pretty much everything else has changed (for the better) and the standout to me is that bezel. Reminiscent of a Doxa bezel, it is very aggressive looking but does not hurt your fingers, is easy to grasp and very satisfying to turn. Notice you have the GMT on both the bezel and on the rehaut of the dial, which is a little redundant but will obviously get the job done. The black matte dial has been kept pretty clean with only minimal text and I appreciate that they went matte here, it allows the ceramic bezel insert to shine more if you will and allows the watch as a whole to not be too “blingy”, which is what I think it would look like if it had a sunburst or gloss dial.

If it seems like I keep comparing the Odyssey to the Globetrotter, it is because I am. How could I not, with the cases being practically the same, but this one is just a tad smaller. I know many that loved the Odyssey and while it is a good looking watch and still popular for the brand, this GMT model checks a lot of boxes for me. Another improvement over the last BOLDR model I had in hand is the use of the ETA 2893 Elabore GMT movement. Now, this is a pretty much the go-to movement for an automatic GMT at this price point, but the last one I reviewed had the NH35. I feel this movement elevates the watch and allows it to be more than just another micro using a Seiko movement.

Lume on this baby is absolutely fantastic. But do not take my word for it, just look below:

The Bolder Globetrotter GMT improves on the Odyssey design and for me, this is the one to get. The Odyssey just looked too much like a cross of a Panerai, Rolex and something else and I just wanted it to be able to stand on its own a little more if that makes sense. Yes, this GMT has a Pepsi bezel who many attribute to Rolex and that bezel edge is similar to a Doxa, but on the whole, this watch stands out from being a clone or homage and it feels original. The rubber strap issue aside, this is an extremely well-made watch that I can not really find any fault with.  I really like the direction BOLDR is going and looking forward to seeing more.

Remember, if you are interested in this watch, use code Watchreport10 to save 10% on the BOLDR Website.

The post BOLDR Globetrotter GMT | Hands-On Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

Crafter BLue Mechanic Ocean | Watch Review

Crafter BLue Mechanic Ocean

Crafter Blue started out making custom rubber straps for a few popular Seiko and Tudor watches and have not crossed over into producing watches as well. Their fitted rubber straps are great no doubt and can really change the look and comfort of your watch. Let’s face it, most Seiko rubber straps leave a lot to be desired. Entering the extremely crowded (some would say overcrowded) microbrand watch world is a whole different game though. Competition is fierce and there are some fantastic microbrands out on the scene, a lot that compete at the same price point CB is selling for. That brings me to the Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean, which is what this review is all about. A big old chunk of Steel at 45mm, it takes design cues from a few different watches, uses a Seiko  NH35 movement and either a fitted rubber strap or solid steel bracelet.

Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean Specifications:

Case: 316L Stainless Steel

Case Diameter: 45mm

Case Length: 52mm

Lug Width: 22mm

Thickness 15.8mm

Case Back: Stainless Steel

Dial color: Grey

Crystal: Domed Sapphire Crystal

Movement: Calibre 3531 (based on Seiko movement, stop-seconds function,  21,600 vibrations

Water Resistance: 300m / 999 ft

Price: $499 on Rubber Strap; $599 on Steel Bracelet

Save 10% at checkout using code Watchreport

https://www.crafterbluewatches.com/mechanic-ocean

Crafter Blue operates out of Hong Kong, so of course, their watches are made there as well, and they are upfront about it. I wish other brands would be more transparent these days, but a watch having a Swiss Made label is enough to sell it on that merit alone, so I guess it might be some time before all brands admit to Far East Manufacturing. Countless brands have their watches partially or fully manufacturing their watches and have been doing so for many years. The days of “cheap crap” when it comes to watches is long gone. That area of the country knows what they are doing and Crafter Blue chose to have their first watch manufactured here because of that.

I really enjoy the color of the dial and the texture and overall it is easy to read. The Mechanic Ocean has a little too much dial text for my personal tastes and I wish the date wheel was black on white to match the dial more a little more. The other issue I have is the second hand is too short, so it does not reach the second markers, something that has always been a pet peeve of mine. With such a large watch, the dial is smaller than I would like to have, and that is because of the steel ring that is between the crystal and bezel. I am not sure why they went with this design choice, and that is all it is design. It has no functionality at all whatsoever. The text on it is garish as well and makes an otherwise nice watch look somewhat cheap.

These days and I feel like a broken record having to say it all the time, but a 45mm by 16mm watch such as this Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean is a large and chunky beast of a watch for me. Going back a decade ago, this would have actually been small for what I liked to wear, so it is funny how things change over time. As I type this, I am wearing a 42.5mm watch that is under 12mm thick, and I love it, so you can see why something like this CB is daunting for me. That all said, I was pleasantly surprised at how well this watch wears. The left side screw down crown made it comfortable to not have that big protrusion digging into the back of the hand and despite the dimensions, I could easily wear this a few days without hesitation, especially on the rubber strap.

Speaking of the rubber strap, it is the same vulcanized rubber that Crafter Blue has been selling for a few years now on their strap website. Dual color rubber with fitted end pieces that line up perfectly to the 22mm lugs. These straps are fantastic and if I ever find myself with a Seiko or a Tudor and want a rubber strap, I know where I will purchase one. This one is obviously custom for this Mechanic Ocean and while the orange color is a good shade lighter than the orange on the aluminum bezel insert, I still think it is a great look to have a two-tone strap that matches the colors of the case. If you have a large wrist, you will be very happy as these straps are long and have many holes to accommodate up to a 9-inch wrist with ease.

The bracelet is a brute as well, solid stainless steel oyster style links, screw bars that hold them together for easy link removal and a clasp reminiscent of some Rolex models, though this does not have a sliding adjustment, but I have to say the bracelet is very well made and suits the case very well. The bracelet is not as big though as the rubber strap, so if you have a wrist larger than 8 inches, I would request extra links at the time of ordering.

The case has nice separation to it, meaning it is not a giant monoblock of steel, even though the bezel is aligned with the case, it doesn’t look like a Boschett Cavedweller for example, which is just about the same exact thickness as this Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean. The Boschett has a flat crystal and this crystal sits up high off the dial of course, though I feel this watch wears better. If you have both the rubber strap and bracelet, or any other strap, changing them out will be easy due to the inclusion of the drilled lug holes, which is always a plus. One thing I have never really seen before with a watch that has crown guards is a crown tube, similar to what you see on a Tudor Black Bay, and it does prevent the crown from sinking into the crown guards fully. Again, this is another thing that made me scratch my head, but my best guess is that it is another form of protection for the crown stem. With a crown this big it is of course very easy to manipulate and turn, though being right-handed, I have to flip the watch around to change the time and date, just the way my left hand is. My left hand is for driving only apparently, not much other use.

If you are going to make a dive watch over 200 meters, it seems to be the norm these days to include a helium release valve. I think it is pretty well known at this point my feelings on this, so I will just leave the picture below and stop there. 

The case back of the Crafter Blue is what I expected with a dive watch such as this, and does remind me of Seiko watches in a way, it just has a similar look and feels, though it is not all high polished as most Seiko case backs are. Beating below it would be the Seiko NH35, a capable but low-beat movement that has become one of the three choices for watches in this price range, along with the Miyota 9015 and Eta 2824. These are the 3 most popular movements for the most part used in microbrands under $1000 and while I normally say that I prefer something a little more capable in watches at this price, I understand why they went with it; to keep the cost down. Had they put in one of the other aforementioned movements, this watch would probably cost $100 more.

The Crafter Blue Mechanic Ocean has a familiar look, but still has its own identity and is definitely not an off the shelf factory case that we see with a lot of up and coming brands. To keep the weight down, I do prefer it on the rubber strap and I have enjoyed wearing it, but it is not a watch that I would personally choose to buy these days, it is just a little too large and too chunky for me. That said, I know many will probably like this watch, there definitely is a segment of watch nuts that will like this look and style and beyond a few things that I think could have been done better aesthetically the watch is solid and well built. I look forward to seeing their second release.

Like this watch? While I am never here to “sell” you on a watch, if you do want to pick one up, Crafter Blue has graciously offered a discount code-Watchreport. Enter that code at check out to save 10%. Thought I forgot about the lume didn’t you? I didn’t. Check it out below. 

The post Crafter BLue Mechanic Ocean | Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

Elliot Brown Holton | Hands On Review

Elliot Brown Holton

Indestructible. Tough. Reliable. These are some of the words I have seen used to describe the Elliot Brown Holton.  The Holton is a watch that had significant input from a branch of the British Military and is the first British Military issued watch in over ten years, claims Elliot Brown. Now, I say claims, as I do not really have any way to dispute that, at least not without some really heavy leg work. Elliot Brown seems to be a stand-up company though and I have seen many military and law enforcement personnel post their watches and say how tough and rugged they are etc, so I can’t see EB shooting themselves in the foot to try and sell one model of watch. All that said, I am not in the military, law enforcement or any of that, I am, as most of you know, a watch nut, like many of you reading. As always, I will come at this review from that perspective and let’s see how the Holton stacks up.

Elliot Brown Holton Specifications:

316L Stainless Case with PVD Treatment and Hardened Bezel

43mm Wide

12mm Thick

52mm Lug to Lug

22mm Lug Width

Sapphire Crystal

Swiss Ronda Calibre 715 Quartz Movement

EPDM Rubber Strap (As shown, also available with Nato Strap)

Battery Life 3 Years

Price $586 USD (Converted from British Pounds)

https://www.elliotbrownwatches.com/holton/

When the Elliot Brown Holton first arrived, the first thing I noticed was that it was very similar to the Tyneham I had reviewed HERE. It is, in fact, similar, as most Elliot Brown watches share similar DNA. The Tyneham is an automatic and lacks a dive bezel and is also a little smaller, but if you look at both side by side, you see they share a very similar if not identical case shape, crown placement and a fitted rubber strap as well. All EB watches are built with toughness in mind though, as I have talked about many times here before with other models. They all have triple sealed crowns and their proprietary metal housing for the movement for superior shock resistance. Elliot Brown tests all their watches rigorously as well.

The dial of the Holton is very free of unneeded text, clean, easy to read and non-reflective. These are obviously things that military personnel look for in a watch, an easy to read and very legible dial that does not really stand out or attract attention. The Holton is only available in two colors, the green shown here and a black dial. That is if you are buying from the Elliot Brown Website directly. If you want something of a different color, check out the Page and Cooper website where they have a grey dial and a teal/ocean blue dial and both of these models are sans date, if the date cutout on the regular version bothers you as it does me.

The case of the Elliot Brown Holton has a lot going on that is not visible to the naked eye.  Plated in a gunmetal PVD, it has an anti-fingerprint coating applied to it and is very non-reflective. The bezel is hardened to 1200HV Vickers and PVD coated as well, though the website does not state what the insert is made of. Seeing as this a watch that is able to withstand almost anything you can throw at it, I will assume it is not aluminum but also steel that is hardened as well, or at least I am hoping. The fully indexed bezel insert has lume applied to the numbers and hash marks as well, although you will see they do not glow very bright in the dark. The bezel is easy to grip and turn, though I would say it is almost too easy to turn, at least on this example.

Here is what I meant by the lume. As you can see, the hands glow very strong and the dial markers are decent but the bezel illumination is poor. I was really hoping that it would be much brighter. Despite not being very bright, the dial and hands do glow for a good few hours before completely fading but the bezel turns dark in a matter of minutes, even in complete darkness.

A well-known aspect of Elliot Brown watches is the bolted down case back. The company does this to ensure two things; 1. The logo will always be perfectly aligned and it also ensures a perfect seal and tension for the shock absorbing system. Inside the Holton is a Swiss Ronda 715 quartz movement that has an end of life indicator. The battery has enough juice for about 3 years and is housed inside a steel movement holder. Obviously, this watch was designed with abuse in mind. That said, I would have loved to see a 10-year battery life with this watch.

The fitted rubber strap is not only attractive but very rigid and tough feeling. This is not one of the floppy silicone or flimsy natural rubber straps, this has a rigidity to it while still allowing a nice fit on the wrist. As is customary with fitted end straps, it will make the watch a longer, putting the overall length at about 53mm. I mention this because some guys are concerned about the watch length more than the width and how it would wear on a smaller wrist. If this strap is not for you, changing out the strap is easy enough. Solid screw bars with a 5-lobe head that screws into lug shoulder are removed with a supplied driver. This strap will also fit any other 22mm lug width Elliot Brown watch if you want to add some green to the one you own. If you want to forgo the rubber altogether, a webbing (Nato style) version is also available. Here it is on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Since day one, Elliot Brown watches were made with abuse in mind. They have countless videos and pictures on their website of their watches being severely tested in the elements, and coming out still working. This Elliot Brown Holton has been tested even harder to be able to withstand what military personnel will put it through, so I have no doubt it will hold up to fishing, kayaking, hiking or any other outdoor or physical activity we civilians might subject it to. This is obviously not the flashy piece or an all occasion watch. Obviously, this can be an everyday watch, depending on what you do for a living, but this watch also has a purpose. Grab this watch when you would grab a G-Shock and it should hold up just the same. This is that rugged piece that should be with you for a long time.

The post Elliot Brown Holton | Hands On Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Watcha Edition Review

Jubileon Superellipse Watcha Edition

Jubileon Singapore is about to launch their latest watch, the Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph. There will be a preorder and possibly a Kickstarter but today I will be concentrating on the Watcha Edition. If you are not familiar with Watcha, it is a popular Facebook Group and website and they have collaborated with Jubileon to do a special edition of this upcoming release. Available in 75 pieces total with 3 variations (all with Panda dial) of case finishes, making it 25 watches per variation. Preorders for this model will start on February 22, and the only way to get this Watcha Edition is by being a member of their Facebook Group (all info below).

Jubileon Superellipse Watcha Edition Specifications:

Movement: Swiss ETA Valjoux 7750

Case: Stainless steel 316L with 3 option colors (polished silver, IP vintage gunmetal, and vintage rose gold)

Crystal: Sapphire glass AR coated

Dial: Panda Theme (black & white)

Subdial: W logo disk at 9

Lug width: 22mm

Diameter: 42mm

Thickness: 15.3mm

Lug to lug: 51mm

Crown to crown: 49mm

Dual Crown: Screw Down

Water Resistance: 100m

Exhibition Caseback: Sapphire glass

Limited edition: 25 pieces each case

strap: denim leather

Price -Preorder price $750.

Preorder Date is 2/22/19 

Preorder by adding +1 to pinned post at www.facebook.com/groups/watcha.watch

https://www.jubileon.com/

The watch I do have in hand is a sample and because of that, I want to list what changes are going to be made to the production version, which for the most part applies to both this Watch edition and the regular version. Copy/paste below direct from the brand owner:

Inner Bezel Numeral “1” Font: You may notice that the current inner bezel may not align to the hour index of the dial. this is because of the numeral “1” where the measurement includes the edge. Hence the misalignment of the inner bezel marking. We will change the font of the numeral “1” to ” 1 ” (a straight line instead).

Leather Strap:

Improving the stamping sign for deeper and clearer of our branding.

Removal of the wording “genuine leather” from the strap.

Buckle Logo: Will make solid engraving the logo rather than outline engraving because the current engraving is too light to notice our logo.

Faded Grey Dial: The minute tracker and wording “Superellipse Chrono” at 6 o’clock will be in white color font / marking instead of black because it can’t be seen clearly through our naked eye.

Exhibition Caseback:

Sapphire Glass will be bigger to reveal the whole rotor especially our engraving branding on it.

The font size of “Superellipse Chrono” and “Limited Edition 00/50” will be bigger.

Crown Logo: Logo is missing “SG”.

Something not regularly seen on a watch such as this would be the inner rotating bezel. Most of the time that bezel would be for elapsed time, like on a dive watch. That is not the case here. This bezel can be used for a second-time-zone. This is a feature that is probably more useful than timing bezel for many, as so many of us travel these days, and while we all have our phones and tablets with us wherever we go, us watch guys like to have useful complications on our watches when we can.

The Jubileon Superellipse Watcha Edition is not a style of watch that I am used to or, one that I would normally look at twice. Now, I say that because it’s true. I find it to be an attractive watch but square watches have never really been my thing, and if I did buy one, they did not last long in the collection. I have always looked at the square Bell and Ross watches but can never pull the trigger. This is not exactly the same thing as the B&R, but you get my point. That said, it does wear much better on the wrist than I thought it would and that is due to a short lug to lug, and curved lugs as well. The 42mm case size is deceiving though as the crown to crown measurement is 49mm, making the watch wear more like a 44-45mm overall. Here it is below on my 7 1/2 inch wrist.

Two straps will be included with the Watcha Edition, the absolutely fantastic leather strap with X -edge stitching and a canvas jean style strap as well. Both straps compliment the watch very well and I found both to very comfortable. While the canvas strap is very well made, the leather strap is where it is at for me with this watch.

The dial of the  Jubileon Superellipse Watcha Edition is a typical Valjoux 7750 layout but the big difference here is the second’s subdial. Instead of the traditional sweep seconds, you get a seconds disk, adorned with the Watcha “W” logo. I think this is a nice touch to the dial and definitely unique, though it is very difficult to see the numbers through the circle cut-out on the disc. This makes the seconds almost obsolete. I did not see this in the list of changes for the production models, so hopefully, this review can serve as some feedback for them and possibly make the hole a little larger to make the seconds more visible.

The case back shows off the Valjoux 7750 Automatic Movement and the rotor is branded, but otherwise rather plain. Since this is a prototype I did not really test accuracy; I did not notice any real deviation, as that would be another issue. Because of the price, I do not expect a lavish or elaborate case back but I am one of those that like to see something a little more when I look through the glass. Those that are fans of seeing the movement in a watch though will be happy I am sure.

The lume of the Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Watcha Edition is surprisingly very nice, especially for a prototype. The one thing missing, in my opinion, is luming the W on the seconds’ disk. It would be a nice added touch to the design and while it would not improve functionality, it would definitely up the cool factor.

I want to be very clear with something here. I pride myself on being as objective as possible with any watch I review. This watch is no different. While I am friends with the owner of the Watcha group, Shane, he was told upfront I would still do the normal review. I know both Shane and Jubileon are hoping for many preorder sales and I do hope they sell all of them. I personally would not be a buyer because the design does not do it for me, but I do find this watch to be a head turner. I am a fan of panda dials and the case finishing is superb. The design is also unique, should you pick one up, you would be wearing something different from the majority of the microbrand offerings. As far as the price, you have seen me review watches here on Watchreport that cost this much with a Miyato 9015 and were a simple 3 handed dive watch. The fact this is a Valjoux Chrono for under $800 is a hell of an offering for sure. Info on how to order is in the specifications section above, and February 22nd is the start date. I hope it does well.

The post Jubileon Superellipse Chronograph Watcha Edition Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

EMG Nemo Diver-Hands On Watch Review

EMG Nemo

Many microbrands are run by one guy, but the EMG Nemo is the brainchild of 3 watch enthusiasts from around the world. Ed, Derek, and Eric brought EMG to life just about 2 years ago and the Nemo Diver is their third model. Coming in at 40mm, the Nemo is a vintage styled diver running a Miyota 9015 automatic movement, a domed sapphire crystal, and beads of rice bracelet. If yellow is not your speed, the Nemo comes in 5 other colors, including an interesting powder blue. Also available is white, black, blue and hunter green.

EMG Nemo Diver Specifications:

Case width – 40mm Length – 47mm Thickness – 13.5mm

(including domed sapphire crystal) Lug Width- 20mm

Movement

Miyota 90S5 Automatic

Bezel

120 Click Unidirectional Bezel

Matte Black Ceramic Insert With Lume Filled Engraving

Crystal

Domed Sapphire With Multilayered Internal AR Coating

Dial

Matte Finishing With Applied Polished Indices and Logo

Lume

 Superluminova C3 X1 Lume

Depth Rating

200m Water Resistance

Caseback

Screw Down With Stamped Squid Design

Bracelet

Beads of Rice, Solid End Link, 20mm Tapered to 18mm

Price $450 USD

https://emgwatches.com/collections/nemo-diver

At 40mm, the EMG Nemo Diver will be beloved by many microbrand watch buyers as I see a lot of comments these days about watches that are too large. Microbrands especially have listened and are producing a lot of watches in the 38mm to 40mm range. For me, especially for a dive watch, 40mm is just a little too small for what I really like to wear. Actually, I shouldn’t say that. This particular watch is a little small for me. It depends on many factors but some 40mm dive watches feel a lot larger than they are, but that was not the intent with the Nemo. They wanted this watch to feel and look classic and be something many could wear, woman included.

That being said, this watch is extremely comfortable on my 7 1/2 inch wrist. A big part of that is due to the case shape and the relatively short 47mm lug to lug.  On top of that, the entire watch weighs just 138 grams including the BOR bracelet. The more I wore this watch, the more I realized for myself, it would have been perfect at 42mm, as I really do love pretty much every aspect of this Nemo, but alas, not everything is for me. This one is for the guys who really do love a smaller diameter watch.

When I looked at all the colors of the EMG Nemo, I immediately chose the yellow dial to review. Yellow is not a standard color that I normally wear but the lemon yellow color with light blue chapter ring and subtle highlights of red just really stood out. This color combination evoked that vintage feel that EMG was going for and I have to say every time I wore it, photographed it or just looked at it, I enjoyed it even more. Initially, the only thing I questioned was the choice of the stick hour and minute hands. I thought they were a little too thin, but this watch is more of a dress diver-it is not an aggressive over-engineered or over styled dive watch, this is a classy watch from top to bottom. The dial was kept uncluttered as well, something I personally like from a dive watch style. Too many watches have so much text and branding all over, it distracts from the beauty of the watch. As the old saying goes, sometimes less is more.

Because of the stick hands and thin applied indices, I figured the lume would be on the weaker side. I was wrong. The lume on the ceramic bezel could be a little better, but it is a thin bezel so I imagine it is hard to add a lot of lume compound to it. The dial, on the other hand, glows really well, due to the C3 X1 Superluminova. Even though the surface area is small, the amount of lume applied does the job as you can see below.

The beads of rice bracelet is a personal favorite of mine, and the one on the EMG Nemo is a great example. The beads are all individual allowing for the bracelet to flow and drape around your wrist to the point you do not even feel the watch on your wrist most of the time. This BOR, like many of them, has polished center links and brushed outer, which matches the finishing of the case. Sizing is a breeze as it utilizes one-piece screws to hold the links together. If for whatever reason you do not like the bracelet as much as I do, the case has drilled lug holes so you can have the bracelet off in a few seconds waiting for your favorite strap.

Even though I refer to the EMG Nemo as a “dress diver”, this is still a capable dive watch. It is still 200m water resistant, has a screw down crown and case back of course and speaking of case back-this one is adorned with a squid. What I appreciate about that is that they did not go the route of an exhibition case back. Something about an exhibition case back on a dive watch bothers me, especially when considering the Miyota 9015 is a very plain and undecorated movement. I know, some absolutely love seeing the movement in their watch, I am not in that camp unless it is something truly unique or special. That said, this particular example has been keeping excellent time, and running around -6 seconds slow per day, timed over a week.

At $450, I find the EMG Nemo Diver to be a very affordable and well-made piece. I really can not find any negatives with this watch and aside from my personal gripe about the size, it is a fantastic watch. I have not seen the other dial colors in person, only in video or pictures, but I I think I would have a hard time straying from the yellow. The microbrand world is crowded no doubt, but EMG watches are making pieces that should put them in the forefront of enthusiasts minds and on their wrists. With this being only their third offering, I am very excited to see what they have in store for future models.

The post EMG Nemo Diver-Hands On Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

PWR Collective’s Journey Ascent Watch That Powers Individualization

PWR Collective’s Journey Ascent Watch That Powers Individualization

Watchmakers often want their timepieces to speak to wearers beyond having something good-looking on their wrist. An appealing watch will often evoke emotions and offer a glimpse into the character of the wearer. Few new watch brands get this more than PWR (pronounced ‘Power’), which is readying its first release through Kickstarter.

What is setting PWR apart at the moment is its clear understanding of the watch as something much more than a simple accessory. The best timepieces are an extension of a wearer, often a part of who they are. PWR’s upcoming debut collection is called the Journey Ascent and has been crafted to highlight the individuality of the wearer.

PWR is creating timepieces that combine aesthetic appeal, luxuriousness, and affordability into a potent package. The company says the Journey Ascent empowers individuals in two ways:

“Reflection of true value – Through being reminded of how far they’ve come, they are reminded of how much further they can go. By purchasing watches to mark milestones, they are reminded of their true potential, their self-value.

  Being in the moment – Whilst wearing PWR, they are reminded of the brand’s core principles. Confidence, determination, and courage.”

  As the name suggests, the Journey Ascent is part of an adventure PWR is embarking on through a series that will encompass several watches. Over the coming months, the company says it will release the full set of Journey timepieces. The Aspire has already been released and the Ascent will launch on Kickstarter soon. Later the Apex will complete the journey, finalizing the beginning, middle, and end of the story.

Ascent Specifications

PWR’s wonderful new Journey Ascent is a high-end watch that is available at an affordable price. Constructed from quality 316L stainless steel with a sapphire crystal glass panel, the timepiece sports luminous hands, and indexes set on a full chronograph face.

Movement is Citizen Miyota Quartz JS25, while the Ascent is properly durable thanks to its scratch-resistant glass front and 10 ATM water resistance. In terms of dimensions, the watch sits elegantly on the wrist with a 42 mm case diameter and 11.8 mm case thickness. PWR says it designs its watches are constructed by high-quality manufacturers and developed through 2D and 3D renders before being finalized.

“We based our pioneering watch series off our people’s will to realize their passions. Our staple Journey series will comprise of three watch designs that will follow our wearers’ personal growth, emboldening them as they continue to overcome challenges and work towards becoming the finest version of themselves. The Ascent timepiece is the first of its kind to encourage its wearers to embed their own stories into their watches, representing the will to continue grinding towards that moment of achievement.”

Kickstarter Launch

PWR is gearing up to open a Kickstarter campaign during February 2019. The Journey Ascent starts at $200, making it a very reasonable luxury-level watch. PWR is seeking a total of $20,000 to start production, a sum we think the company should achieve easily. We advise getting into the funding early because the company is offering discounts of over 40% off the retail price for early-bird reward packages.

The post PWR Collective’s Journey Ascent Watch That Powers Individualization appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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JORD Watches: Wooden Timepieces Done Right

JORD Watches: Wooden Timepieces Done Right

Standing out from the crowd is easier said than done when designing and crafting a watch. Over the years, we have seen watchmakers turn to various gimmicks and unique designs to appeal to wearers. One of those unique flourishes has been the wooden timepiece, which if done well can be elegant, but if done poorly can look and feel cheap. JORD is a company that does the wooden watch justice with its slick designs for men and women.

JORD understands what it takes to make a good timepiece. Through a painstaking development process, the company has been able to craft appealing wooden watches. The key to the success of JORD products is a clear understanding of what a timepiece made from wood should offer. Firstly, excellently sourced materials, detailed craftsmanship, and finally ensuring the watch itself is quality.

No gimmicks here, just designs that will appeal to watch enthusiasts combining mechanical accuracy with cool visuals. In addition to exotic woods, such as Zebrawood, Koa, Black Palm, and Ebony, JORD incorporates other natural materials such as black Marquina and white marble. JORD has also quickly become a favorite amongst Apple Watch owners, who can buy specialized straps made from wood or leather.

Men’s JORD Watches

JORD men’s watches are available in a wide range of series. Covering all sizes and aesthetics, the selections are affordable and appealing, while each series is available in several wood finishes and designs.

The Black Palm Limited Edition MERIDIAN is a particular standout in the men’s range. This spectacular watch is made from Borassus Flabellifer and is only available in a run of 300 made-to-order pieces. JORD has also debuted its RIST (Resin-Infusion Stabilization Technology) on the Black Palm.

RIST is a specialized resin solution that has been developed to allow added strength and a more premium finish. JORD achieved this leap in technology by placing the Black Palm wood into an activated resin, which was then put under a vacuum. The company describes the innovation as horology first, providing the wearer with a more durable and resistant material.

MERIDIAN – 45mm Dual wheel self-winding automatic with power reserve

DOVER – 42mm Self-winding automatic (full skeleton design)

CONWAY – 42mm Sport 6-hand quartz chronograph with date

HYDE – 43mm minimalist multi-dial with date

SAWYER – 50mm 7-hand self-winding automatic chronograph with date

FRANKIE – 45mm ultra-thin quartz minimalist

Women’s JORD Watches

Some JORD watches are suitable for both men and women, such as JORD’s most popular seller, the Frankie, which comes in several color/wood combinations. Elsewhere, timepieces are versatile and elegant in the ladies range, available in several finishes, such as leather, mesh, and of course wood.

The latest addition to the JORD lineup is the SIER ARCADIA series. Four new timepieces designed for women, the SIER ARCADIA marries elements such as black Marquina and white marble combined with rose gold. Customers can choose between mesh or leather interchangeable bands, as well as JORD’s famous wooden offerings.  

Early in 2019, JORD will release its new Cora watch for women. Available in several color combinations (Walnut & Navy, Zebrawood & Turquoise, and Koa & Rose Gold). The Core is a 34mm timepiece with a Swarovski constellation dial with an open window to the Citizen Miyota 6t28 automatic movement.

SIER – 38mm Stone dial minimalist. Interchangeable leather & metal mesh bands

CASSIA – 40mm 2-hand classic quartz minimalist

CORA – 36mm Self-winding skeleton automatic with Swarovski crystals

FRANKIE – 45mm ultra-thin quartz minimalist

Go Your Own Way

JORD understands that their timepieces are unique, making them interesting talking points or fantastic gifts. Customers can add that extra touch of interest by personalizing their JORD timepieces. Customization options include personal engraving, while each watch can be opulently presented in a cedar humidor box.

Available now in a range of designs and prices, JORD watches are quickly becoming a hot topic amongst watch aficionados, who appreciate the attention to detail. JORD has simply done the wooden watch right, and the results are a series of unforgettable timepieces.

The post JORD Watches: Wooden Timepieces Done Right appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2 | Hands On Review

Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2

The Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2 launched on Kickstarter this morning and offers a very affordable way to get a COSC certified dive watch that is available in many different colors, different metals (steel or titanium), and also as a GMT. I only had a short time with the Diver 2 as I had to get it passed on to another person and I was heading out on vacation shortly after the watch arrived but I was able to record a video review which you see posted above. Because of my short time with the watch I am not sure if I gave it the fairest shake or if I was a little jaded in my view of it, which sometimes does happen. I will try here to be as objective as possible, within reason of course.

Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2 Specifications:

Available in Stainless Steel, PVD, Titanium or Solid Gold Cases

44mm Width

15mm Thick

51mm Lug To Lug

Ceramic Bezel

Sapphire Crystal

Sellita SW200 or SW300 (GMT) Movement

COSC Certified Movement Upgrade Available

600 Meters Water Resistant

Delivery in August/September

Price:  As low as $462 for the NON–COSC movement. Check Kickstarter for all pricing and rewards. 

https://timeisyours.ch/en/

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1953974228/zk-no2-cosc-certified-swiss-made-automatic-diver-g?ref=nav_search&result=project&term=cosc

The Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2 is the second watch to be released from the Switzerland based brand. Their first, a moon phase chronograph was successful on Kickstarter in 2017 and of course, the company is hoping the lighting will strike twice. While moon phase chronograph watches are not rare, I personally feel there was a little more originality to the overall design of that model. This Diver and the GMT (which share the same case and bracelet, etc), are very reminiscent of a Rolex Submariner. The size is larger than most submariner homages at 44mm and of course, the dial and hands are very different but it is obvious to me where the inspiration came from. Now, many know I have covered many sub homages here on Watchreport, but those watches replicate the original more closely. Here, they wanted to do something different, but not totally different and I feel they could have gone with a different case and bracelet so that the watch would stand out more and not be compared to those others.

Now, let me be clear here. For those that are not familiar with this site or my point of view, I am here to give me an opinion, and yes, I always try to be objective and compare to what is currently on the market. It also does not escape me of course that many watches no matter what will end up looking similar to others or homage others etc. It is inevitable. So why do I have an issue with the case and bracelet of this Zahnd and Kormann Diver 2? I am not exactly sure. In a way, I guess it seems to be the easy way out. On the other hand, using a more simple and well-recognized case design might have helped keep the cost down and allow for the very affordable pricing for the COSC movement and because of the very popular case style, allow it to have a wider audience base.

So what exactly are you getting with this Diver 2? Well, there are a lot of options. On Kickstarter, the base pledge (where you receive a watch) is $462, which will get you the watch you see being reviewed here, in any color combination and choice of steel or black PVD steel. This option uses the élaboré SW200 automatic movement. There are then options to upgrade to a titanium case and bracelet and of course, the COSC option. If you really want to upgrade, you can now also get this watch (or the GMT) in solid rose gold, solid yellow and solid white gold,  which of course is going to set you back a good chunk of change.

Initially, I felt that the best value would be the titanium and COSC option, which would put you around $720 and I still stand by that. That said, at $462, the élaboré version with an SW200 or just a little more if looking at the GMT versions, is not a bad price at all, considering you do get a very nice looking patterned dial, ceramic bezel, solid steel bracelet that has a quick removal mechanism along with a ratchet extension clasp. All of that for under $500 is very appealing, especially if you really like the design.

This watch is built, or at least the company claims it is built to be a hard use dive watch as well, as it has a 600m water resistance rating and a helium release valve on the non-crown side of the case, which it oddly promotes on the dial as you see above. If that claim holds true, then this watch is more than just form and functions well above many dive watches in its price range that are normally rated only to 200m. Are Zahnd and Kormann actually testing these watches to that depth? I hope so.

The watch I had in hand was, of course, a prototype, a sample and I am not sure what changes are planned for production. I do know what changes I would like to see. Most have to do with the bracelet as opposed to the dial or case, but I will say the large Z&K logo is a little off-putting, but it is lumed as you will see in the lume shots below. No, the biggest thing I would change would the high polished center links of the oyster link bracelet. If that is not an option, maybe then add some high polish areas to the ratchet dive clasp, as it looks like it was meant for a different watch as is.

As far as comfort goes, I would say this Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2 feels like a 44mm Steinhart Ocean One on the wrist and of course looks similar as well, as far as the case and bracelet go. I did not have to remove any links from this bracelet and considering I have a 7 1/12 inch wrist, I would consider the bracelet to be short. Again, this was a sample watch, so hopefully, more links will be included come to the production models. If you do need to size the bracelet, it uses split pins as opposed to screws, which I would prefer.

Lume

I always state when I am in love with or enamored with any watch I review, and that is clearly not the case with The Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2. That does not mean I do not see the tremendous value it offers and while this watch is not for me, I can see why many would want it and be happy with it, especially if you have always wanted a COSC movement and can get one here for well under $1000. As far as the solid gold options, I am not sure who would be dropping the coin for those-lets be realistic, the brand does not have the name or history for someone to spend that kind of money on a watch, gold or otherwise. Steel and Titanium are where it is at for this model lineup at this point in time. As always though, this is just one man’s opinion. Click the links through the review to take you to their Kickstarter if you are interested in pledging or to their website for more info. I want to hear what you think, so leave your comments below.

The post Zahnd And Kormann ZK Diver 2 | Hands On Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

Ayers Metropolitan | Hands-On Watch Review

Ayers Metropolitan

Many people when discussing microbrands talk about how there is no originality sometimes, with the countless Rolex homages, Panerai homages and many more that are available out there and continue to pop up daily. The Ayers Metropolitan, while not being completely uninspired by other brands is a nice breath of fresh air if you will, as they decided to something very different compared to their competition. The highlight of this cushion case wristwatch is the full lume dial that has a two-layer sectioned dial that really stands out, especially in the dark.

Ayers Metropolitan Specifications:

MOVEMENT Miyota 9015 Premium Slim Automatic Movement

DIAL & LUME Full Swiss Super-LumiNova® dial, Swiss Super-LumiNova® hour & minute hands and indices.

CASE 44mm Stainless Steel 316L Cushion Case with Exhibition Case Back

CRYSTAL (Top) Sapphire crystal with Anti-reflective coating and (bottom) sapphire crystal

BRACELET Stainless Steel 316L Bracelet with butterfly clasp

WATER RESISTANT 10ATM (100m)

DIMENSIONS 44 x 52mm (49mm diagonal)

THICKNESS 10.50mm

LUG TO LUG 51.20mm

LUG WIDTH Internal width 14.00mm and external width 26.00mm

CROWN Screw-down

FEATURES Date window at 3 o’clock, Limited Edition engraving

WARRANTY 2 Years

Price $790 USD

https://ayerswatches.com/

Most of the time I really do not mention the packaging of a watch because usually, it is just cardboard or leather-like box and nothing really special. The Ayers Metropolitan, on the other hand, comes in a gorgeous lacquered wood box that you just don’t usually see with a $790 price tag. It really is a nice wood box, it not only looks great but is solid and hefty and is well made. Also included is a metal warranty card.

While cushion case watches are nothing new, and you can see some inspiration from some luxury watches with the Ayers Metropolitan case and bracelet, the case and bracelet are very well machined and finished, with horizontal, vertical and circular brushing throughout. This is not an off the shelf case or bracelet and Ayers definitely wanted to make a serious watch and paid attention to the small details.

The case and bracelet are mostly done in a brushed finish and you will find just a little bit of high polish under the fixed bezel area and the crown. Normally an all brushed finish is reserved for tool style watches or divers, but the use of brushing patterns gives a nice contrast, especially on the sides of the case and the H-Link bracelet.

Not to disregard the case finishing I just highlighted but the main attraction of the Ayers Metropolitan is definitely the sectioned dial. Full lume dials are nothing new and sectioned dials are not either, though they are not the norm. In different lighting, the dial can come across as bright white, slightly green or slightly blue and that is due to the dial being coated in Superluminova. For this variation, orange Superluminova is used for the hands and markers and I love the white and orange contrast, as usually it is black and orange that is used for dial colors and this is a nice change. Also, note how the brand name is written on a little nameplate if you will and not actually on the lower dial. Ayers kept the dial text to an absolute minimum and beyond the sections, the only other item added to the dial is the date cutout at 3 o’clock.

Getting close up to dial while in full darkness, you can see evenly the lume application is applied to both the dial, hands, and markers. If you want lots of lume and are looking for something different, look no further.

Moving around to the case back, you find another sapphire crystal which exposes the Miyota 9015 automatic movement which has an Ayers engraved rotor. Being a 9015, the rotor is loud and having the exhibition case back makes it even louder, but that is just a quirk of this movement that is otherwise fantastic.

On my 7 1/2 inch wrist the Ayers Metropolitan fits perfectly and that is not something that I expected when I first looked at it, as it has a dual deployant clasp and those type of bracelets I usually struggle to get the perfect fit. Fortunately, Ayers was smart and included two half links on the bracelet and sizing was a breeze due to one piece screws that are easily removed. I removed 3 and a half links to fit my wrist, and the fit was perfect and overall the watch is very comfortable. One thing of note though, because of the crown guards and small crown, trying to unscrew the crown and change the time or the date on the wrist is really not doable, at least for me. I have a slightly difficult time with it off the wrist too.

I honestly did not expect the Ayers Metropolitan to be as nice as it is. I am truly impressed. From the packaging to the case finishing, gorgeous lume dial and the well thought out bracelet, this is a watch that really does punch above its weight. My only real gripe would be that for a 44mm watch, the crown is on the small side and is hard to grasp, at least with my fingers. Other than that, I think they have a real winner here. The overall style is not something I would personally choose to wear every day, but I can definitely see the appeal and it would be something I would grab out of the watch box every so often to change things up a bit. I am looking forward to seeing their second model, which I hope is in the works.

The post Ayers Metropolitan | Hands-On Watch Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

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Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel | Hands-On Review

Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel

If this is your first time here at Watchreport, you may not know that we have been reviewing Gruppo Gamma Watches for a long time. This latest model, the Vanguard Aged Steel is a throwback of sorts to the original Vanguard with some very nice upgrades. Gruppo has been in business since 2013 and they show no signs of slowing down anytime soon. Now equipped with an ETA 2824 automatic movement and a custom Di Stefano leather strap, this is easily the best watch they have produced to date.

Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Specifications:

316L stainless steel/ aged finish/

Double domed sapphire, anti-reflective treatment

Diameter 44mm, length 54mm lug-to-lug

Height 13.5mm

Solid case back

Screw lock crown

Water resistance 200m

ETA 2824 Automatic Movement

Leather strap by Simona Di Stefano, handmade in Italy

Price: List price $900 *USE CODE WATCHREPORT AT CHECKOUT TO SAVE $100, MAKING IT $800 USD. * This Price till February 10th and is good for any Vanguard.

https://www.gruppogammawatches.com/vanguard.html

This Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel (and regular steel and bronze models) have a lot of similarity to the original Vanguard models and as such, I am going to highlight the differences here in this review, rather than go over some of the many things I have in the past. A quick search on the site will bring up all Gruppo Gamma watches that have been reviewed in the past. To me, there are two big standouts with this new version, the Swiss ETA Movement and the Aged Steel Case. I have discussed the ETA 2824 countless times here and as most probably know, it is a great workhorse Swiss Movement that can be found in countless entry-level watches and microbrands. The case finish, on the other hand, I need to delve a little more into.

So, the Gruppo Gamma website does not specifically state the process for the aged steel coating and to be honest I am not sure if it is a DLC or PVD transfer. I am going to assume that the coating is distressed when it goes on as it is too uniform to be hand distressed. One thing I do know is that this is one of the nicest aged or distressed finishes I have seen on a watch. I know some people are on the fence about it and for those that are, there is a standard satin finish available, but in the simplest of terms, this finish is hot.

Another unique feature would be the bolted on crown guards and bronze side plate, both which are removable, but not sure why you would want to do that. While I do not see any real functionality to them, it adds to the rugged, industrial look of the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard. Here is a look at the bronze plate and crown guards below.

One of my personal favorite aspects of the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel is the case back. As skull aficionado, (is that even a thing), I appreciate not only the very detailed skull motif and engraving on the case back but also that they chose to not put it anywhere on the dial. As much of a fan of skulls that I am, I appreciate images like that be left on the back. Only you know it is there, which makes it a little special and doesn’t make the watch look tacky or gimmicky either.

Do you like lume? I mean, do you want your watch to glow like crazy? If so, these new Vanguards fit the bill.

In the photo above, you can see just how much Swiss Superluminova has been applied to the hands and markers. Of course, with this much, this watch can almost be used as a flashlight. It is not only ridiculously bright but will last in the dark for at least 8 hours, at least from what I have seen in the time I have tested it.

One of the nicest straps I have seen on a production watch is included with the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel. The Di Stefano blue leather strap is a step above most any other leather strap you will see, especially at this price. Di Stefano is a custom strap maker out of Italy, and if you are not interested in the Vanguard, I would definitely check out their straps, they are fantastic. This blue leather strap is supple, thick and just wraps around the wrist. The blue shade is not for me personally though, I would prefer a black or brown leather strap. On the Gruppo Gamma website, a nice brown version of this is shown on the brushed stainless version and may be possible to ask if they could give you that one instead if you do not care for the blue.

The default strap length is 125/75mm, but you can order the Vanguard with a shorter strap or a longer one at 130/80mm, which is what is I asked for. Below you can see where this sits on my 7 1/2 inch.

With its aged case, beautiful dial and custom strap, the Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel is the best the company has to offer. At $900 it is currently their most expensive as well, but it does have a Swiss ETA movement that has been keeping time at +4 seconds a day as well as all the other upgrades mentioned in this review. When you up the quality to this level, the price is going to inevitably go up. Obviously, there is no shortage of competition and with the price, some people are going to balk and that is expected. Gruppo Gamma is not only upping the quality and components of their watches but also wants to be around for the long term and that is difficult with thin margins. As I have always stated here, I do not sell watches, just review them and give my take on it. The consumer will always be the deciding factor, but just before publishing this review, I saw a post that said this first batch is almost sold out, so it looks like Gruppo Gamma knows what they are doing and have a following ready for more.

    The post Gruppo Gamma Vanguard Aged Steel | Hands-On Review appeared first on WatchReport.com.

[joshuasm28]

Nodus Avalon | Hands-On Watch Review

Nodus Avalon

The Nodus Avalon is the fourth watch to be produced from the Los Angeles based brand and while they openly admit that production is outsourced; assembly and QC is done in-house. I have been looking forward to this model for almost two years now, as this was meant to be the second watch in the Nodus stable, but a few setbacks kept that from happening.  The young owners, Wes and Cullen, are not guys to give up though and pushed forward to make the Avalon a reality. Not only is it now a reality, but it is a great accomplishment for the brand. The cases are fully-CNC machined (a higher cost manufacturing process I am told) with ceramic bezel options, a Miyota 9039 movement regulated in 4 positions and available in 5 different colors.

Nodus Avalon Specifications:

Case: 316L surgical-grade stainless steel Dimensions: 42mm bezel width | 43.5mm case width | 12.9mm thickness | 48mm lug-to-lug | 20mm lug width | 6.5mm crown diameter Crown: Screw-down Movement: Miyota 9039 automatic movement | Made in Japan | Regulated in four positions Crystal: Double-domed sapphire crystal | Blue anti-reflective coating on the underside Bezel: Matte ceramic bezel insert (fully lumed) OR stainless steel bezel insert Luminescence: Swiss Super-LumiNova® C3 Grade X1 Water Resistance: 300 meters / 1000 feet Bracelet: Solid H-links | Flip-lock button release clasp with six micro-adjustments Weight: 83g (watch head) | 192g (with full bracelet) Dial: Matte finish with slight silver sheen | Polished silver indices Hands: Polished silver | Diamond-cut Warranty: 24 months Full Kit: Nodus watch roll | Microfiber cleaning cloth | Warranty and regulation cards

Price as shown $650 (With Ceramic Bezel)

https://www.noduswatches.com/avalon/

It has been a while since I reviewed the Trieste from Nodus and I was not able to get my hands on their second or third models, though I do hope to get a Contrail in hand soon. I had to go back and read my original review and while I did like the watch I had a few issues but was hopeful for the brand. Writing this today, it is amazing how far the brand has come. The Trieste was a decent microbrand offering, the Avalon might be setting a new standard. If you have not watched the video yet, please do so, but if you like photos, make sure to look at all attached in this review, as you really need to look at all sides of the watch to see all it offers. At first glance, it may seem similar to a Doxa or Eterna Super Kontiki case but when you look at the profile, you can see this watch has its own personality.

The Avalon, a 300 Meter dive watch, has so much going for it, it is hard to know where to start. The dial is crisp and uncluttered, allowing for easy readability at a glance. Its dial looks matte white but does have a very subtle sheen which plays well off the diamond cut hands and applied markers. One thing that you will notice in my photos is the green color of the lume paint. While some may prefer the use of a whiter lume compound, the Nodus Avalon uses X-1 C3 Superluminova, so it is somewhat of a trade-off.  With this being a dive watch that is meant to be used, I don’t think anyone will really be complaining about that.

If you are still not convinced as to why you would want that X1 lume, take a look below. The Avalon glows as well as any watch at the top of the lume mountain, and maybe more. Lume junkies rejoice, this is the real deal.

When you go 360 with the Avalon you will notice the 3 different case finishes used, and the attention to detail with all of them. The main case is both brushed and polished but look closer to see that the aggressively knurled bezel edge is bead blasted. The case has a prominent curve that is not immediately noticeable and this allows the watch to sit very comfortably on the wrist. Yes, the case is 43.5mm overall, but the bezel sits at 42mm and combined with only a 46mm lug to lug, this watch is going to really look great on smaller wrists, though I think it is perfect on my 7 1/2 inch wrist, and ridiculously comfortable.

Part of that comfort comes from the H-Link stainless steel bracelet, (which is oddly missing a dive extension) but also the relative thinness of the case. It is not every day that you see a 300-meter dive watch that is just shy of 13mm. That is very thin for a watch such as this and due to the case design, seems even slimmer. Nodus chose to go with the Miyota 9039 automatic movement to keep the watch less bulky as this movement comes sans date and has hands that sit lower, which all come together to accommodate a slimmer case.

One thing I noticed after doing my photography is the case back is easily scratched. This is not due to rough handling per se, but the fact that the frosted etched case back is prone to be marred up without much effort. If you don’t have a watch box with pillows to store the Avalon when not wearing it, leave the watch on its side and not with the clasp touching the back, otherwise it will look like this.

If you are wondering why the Nodus Avalon has a medieval-looking sword on the case back, that would be because the Avalon is inspired by Arthurian legend. It is the island where Excalibur was forged and also where Arthur goes to heal from his wounds. While this obviously has nothing to do with the design of the watch, I like the fact that the brand actually has a good backstory and actually put thought into naming the model.

If I were to say one word about Nodus, it would be “killing it”. Okay, that is two words and more of a phrase, but you get my point. They spent the better part of two years to make the Avalon come to life and while they were not happy with the delay, they still released two models in the meantime. These gents are motivated! Okay, maybe that is the one word I would use to describe the brand. The Avalon has so much going for it and if I were to really hunt for a negative, it would be that I would like drilled lugs, but that might mess with the symmetry of the case design, so just forget about it. The specs above tell the story and if that is not enough, Nodus is comprised of two hard-working guys who are trying to not only create a successful business but solidify a relationship with their customers, as they travel the country meeting them and showing off their watches. The Avalon is a fantastic watch in my opinion, but as always, don’t just take my word. Check it out for yourself if you are so inclined.

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