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Sadly here ends the Mzuzu experience. Thanks for reading.
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So I have finished in work and have travelled down to Lilongwe. It was sad to leave everyone in Mzuzu and Peace and his son Joshua seemed disappointed in my leaving. The audit work though is done apart from the auditor writing up his final reports. Last night I arrived at Mabuya camp where I am staying for two nights. I have had my first warm shower in a while which was nice and refreshing. Chilled out last night with a few greens and a Spanish omelette. This morning I played golf at Lilongwe golf club, thankfully a much more conventional course than Mzuzu. Daniel was my caddy and guided me round the course. I hit the ball ok but finished a disappointing 6 over! I then had pizza for lunch at Mamma Mia's restaurant, a more westernised establishment, and then travelled back to the camp with my first experience in a Tuk-Tuk which was great fun. Just chilling tonight and finalising my packing before off to airport tomorrow morning. Zikomo (thank you).
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So my final full week of work in Mzuzu has come to an end. Thankfully the audit has made good progress and we should finish 99% of it before I leave. The picture is of that finance and admin team, namely Maggie, Peace and Dokiso. As with most of my foreign travels I have been to a medical centre this weekend as I have been bitten, probably by a sizeable spider. My wrist is red and swollen and the hospital has given me some cream and pills. George and I went to play golf at the Mzuzu 9 hole golf club. The club phoned a member so we could borrow their clubs but it was a very surreal game of golf. A team 4 turned up to caddy for us, find balls, score and be the flag man who would run down the fairway, locate the green and create a hole. By the time we got to the green (which was effectively a sandpit of orange dust) he flag man would smooth the sand to the whole so we could putt. We had many followers watching as we were the only players and white. The field itself was used by everyone so there were people wandering about and our caddies had to try and make them stop and wait, with varying success. Sadly I forgot to take my camera so unfortunately no photos. Only a couple days of work left now and then off to Lilongwe and start the very long journey home. Tawonga
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Mwawuka (good morning) The end of another week here in Mzuzu with a few new experiences to report. It has rained for the first time since I have been here and boy did it rain, absolutely torrential. Bit like when it snows in uk and everything turns grey and slushy except here everything turns orange from the soil. I also experienced my first earth quake tremor which was a weird sensation, thankfully nothing serious. I took the team out for a meal to say thanks to the Indian restaurant A1. It was a good meal and evening and what started at around 8-10 people finished at around 18! Even at Malawi prices it became quite expensive!! And this week I even managed my first, albeit brief conversation in Tumbuku with someone outside of work, it has only taken me 5 weeks!! At the weekend I travelled to the remote village of Usisya where TEMWA undertake a lot of their work. Unfortunately I missed their annual dancing event which was disappointing, however the lodge and the tent I stayed in was directly on the beach with some lovely views. I had it to myself Friday and Saturday morning. I spent Saturday at a training session run by TEMWA for mentors of 10-18 year old children effected by HIV. It was interesting but unfortunately as it was in 3 languages (English, Chichewa and Tumbuku) a lot passed me by. On Sunday it was very much a day of relaxation ahead of the couple hour trip back to Mzuzu. A local fisherman stopped by our lodge and Bonnie and George bought a very large Catfish for 4000 kwachas (around £4). Dad - maybe your next boat project can be a hollowed out canoe?! Hopefully you can spot some flies in one of the photos which create an amazing site on the water. They do come ashore and I saw some local women catching them for tea. The trip home was an experience travelling in a 4x4 built to house probably 6 people which was actually loaded with around a dozen people all with bags and boxes while then having to travel through the mountains on very bumpy and steep roads. Thankfully we made it safe and sound. Now back to work.... Yewo (thank you)
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This week I have been back in work, the accounts are almost done so will get the auditor in next week and see what challenge that brings. This weekend I organised a trip to Mushroom farm which is a secluded lodge perched at the top of a mountain in Livingstonia. My usual taxi driver ensured me he could get us there in his car despite the apparent tough terrain so Bonnie, George and I set off straight after work on Friday. The journey turned into a long nightmare because as we climbed the pot holes and rocks started, our progress slowed, darkness fell and the bottom of the car started taking a pounding. Oh yes, and we didn't know the way so had to keep stopping to ask directions!! Some 4.5 hours later we thankfully arrived. Our hosts greeted us warmly and our mushroom curry was immediately served which was much needed. After a quick drink we retired for the night, me to my shared tent dorm. The next morning made the previous nights long journey worthwhile as the camp overlooks a plateau and the views were stunning. We signed up for a 6 hour hike and set off to Chambeau with Kathryn a traveller from Munich and our guide Lidia. The climb was pretty steep but the even higher views were breathtaking looking out over the plateau and Lake Malawi where we rested and had lunch. Having trekked back in good time we briefly rested and then Bonnie, George and I set off for an hours walk to some waterfalls. A local kid accompanied us and gave us an unofficial tour guide. After returning and being hot and tired I had my first hot shower of the trip which felt pretty good!! The evening veggie burrito meal was great and it was followed by a local band singing, playing and dancing Malawian music which was different but very enjoyable. That evening we met a number of very nice people from NZ, Germany, Netherlands and the US and sank a few "greens". Sunday was more chilled and thankfully Bonnie and George got us a free lift back to Mzuzu in a 4x4 which made the very bumpy journey much more comfortable!!
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Sunday turned into an interesting day. Firstly Renny's taxi driver (Chewemwey) invited us to church which was an interesting experience. Unfortunately all new people had to stand at the front and with a microphone explain who you were!! For some reason they all started laughing after me which I later found out was because they thought I had run out of things to say! Afterwards Chewemwey invited us to his parents house where they made us very welcome with tea and sweet potatoes. A large family of 7 the children were keen to have their photos taken. Nothing however was too much trouble for them and we were always welcome and to yuse their home as our own. In the afternoon there was a music festival at Squirrel Park. The event during the sunny afternoon was fairly low key but as the sun disappeared it came alive. Being the only four Mzungus (white people) at the event and as the beer flowed a lot of people came and introduced themselves. The gig went on longer than I had thought and knowing there would be tea on the table at home I unfortunately left before the main event appeared, but it was a great experience.
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So this week has been kind of frustrating with no access to the office until Friday when my temporary employment permit was eventually approved - apparently I can now stay for two years!!! As a result of the visa issues I have filled most of my time with simply walking in and around Mzuzu and frequenting the Mzuzu Coffee Den for coffee and WIFI... so this weeks photos are a few highlights of the city .... including the football ground where today (Saturday) I watched the Moyale Barracks win 1-0 at home. I did however help cook Nsima at home this week - so look out when I get back!! Tawonga (thank you very much).
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Nkhata bay
Well Saturday I managed a 4.5 hour hike passing through many small "villages" which really consisted of 4-5 tin or thatched buildings on the way to Bungulu Hill/mountain. Many of the locals would say hello and ask how I was and I certainly seemed to cause much amusement amongst the children who would come to say hello. I got lost on the trek and the hand drawn map that I took a photo of to use wasn't great. Having eventually reorientated myself the path approaching the foot of Bungulu Hill disappeared so I gave up at this point, so sadly didn't get to see the panoramic views of the bay and the lake. Despite this the views along the way were pretty good and I had a fantastic roof top room over looking the beach. On the walk back I wandered into Nhkata bay market which was full of people selling tomatoes, fish, onions and much more. I stopped for a bottle of "green" (a Carlsberg) to chill out and recover. On the short walk back to Mayoka camp there where a series of artist shops selling traditional African paintings, wooden sculptures and clothing. The artists did some very hard and emotional selling which ended up costing me a few quid!! Sunday was spent at the beach and I was joined by Renny, Bonnie and George who travelled up for the day from Mzuzu and we chilled out at Chikale beach and I tried a lot more "green"!!
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It's been an interesting week herein Mzuzu...... visa and immigration issues meaning I have had the best part of 3 days off as I'm not technically allowed to work. Hopefully this will be sorted for Monday and that I'm not extradited!! On the positive side it has meant that I have used Friday to travel to Nkhata Bay and specifically Mayoka. The trip down here on a very bumpy road littered with jack knifed lorries was certainly an experience!! As you'll see one lorry driver certainly made use of all of his load capacity, even the taxi driver slowed to take photos with his mobile!! Mayako lodge is next to Lake Malawi and is stunning. It's also noticeably warmer here by be lake which is nice. Will be enjoying a bbq buffet tonight for dinner. Plan to go for a 12k hike tomorrow morning to Bungulu hill, maybe a snorkel in the afternoon and I'm sure a beer or two in the evening.
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Moni (hello). It is unbelievably almost the end of my first week in Mzuzu. During these first few days I have met a lot of very friendly people, toured around the sites of this amazing city, done some work at TEMWA and tried a variety of local food and drink. In terms of work I have met all the TEMWA team, all of whom have been very welcoming and supportive and we have made good progress in preparing the accounts ahead of the audit in August. However this hasn't been without its challenges with both power and internet outages experienced. The food is good and I have tried the local meal of Nsima (pronounced without the N) a couple times along with various other local produce and delicacies. Mwmy, my host, continues to kindly make me my breakfast and dinner which is very much appreciated. Over the weekend I did a lot of walking from my lodgings to the city so that I could tour the bustling Mzuzu town and specifically the Mzuzu market with its amazing array of fresh fruit and veg, fish, rice and beans etc while also shopping in the more conventional supermarket Shoprite. I watched some of the Presidents Cup final (Mzuzu Moyale were robbed, never a pen) while also finding some time to rest in local bars including the Mozoozoozo backpacker bar. Renny from Brecon also kindly kept me company on Sunday as we toured a couple more sites and bars. The sounds coming from the gospel choir churches as we passed were just amazing. I also woke to the wonderful site of half a dozen monkeys playing just outside my bedroom window!!
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Today I made the long trip to Mzuzu, around 360 kilometres with Moyo. Numerous towns and markets lined the orange and dusty first half of the trip which included a wide array of fruit for sale while the second half climbed through the tree lined mountains with some amazing rock formations. On arrival at Mzuzu I met the TEMWA team (Dokiso, Maggie, Jericho, Bonnie and George) and have now settled into Peace's house which I am sharing with his daughter Mwmy for the next two weeks. Getting some rest this evening before starting work tomorrow.
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It's been a long 24 hours but I have arrived safely in Lilongwe, Malawi. Despite being very tired I am very much feeling like a Princess now that I have made my bed up as you can see from the photo. I have had my first assignment meeting with Peace this evening so the aims for the coming few days are clear and should present a good challenge. Travelling the 350kms to Mzuzu tomorrow morning.
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