jermbone

[jermbone]

My last day of cycling to the farm was an epic one. I rode for 45 miles and climbed 6,700 feet of elevation. MEGA VIEWS, good tunes, and lots of sweat.

Higher in the mountains means cooler weather, greenest of green, and grandest of views.

I made it to the farm snaking through winding rocky roads, i set bikey down at the front gate and initiated dance session numero uno. We gathered the dogs and went for a walk to explore the farm and meet all the animals! I jumped right in to what i came here to do. Farm with friends, be with animals, learn learn learn.

Evvverryyybodys excited

Galaxia and her sweet buddy durham the bull

Big momma Blanca & alanis horsette

Lupe lupe

Carmelo and the unnamed fellow

TITO

Little Lola

& the most special of all.... Farmers Pepe y Coco. Also known as peepee & caacaa.

[jermbone]

Terraba - February 5th

In the mountains i feel like i can breathe again. Fully breathe. I cross rivers and streams, climb steep grades through twists and turns. Encounter snakes, spiders, and vibrant birds soaring along side me. Every chance i get i stop to jump in the river. Whats in the water? I dont know. And today i just dont care.

After a lot of searching, I caught rumors of an indigenous people living in the mountains in this area. The people of Terraba. The tale goes that this tribe survived the Spanish Conquest & trace their history back to the Chiriqui people who lived in the area at least 10,000 years ago. The conquistadors found the jungles of Costa Rica to be harsh and impassable. The people of Terraba were able to maintain their cultural traditions for many many years, even as the world changed around them. Few members supposedly still speak their native language. I ride deep into the mountain to see what i can find out for myself. The further i get into the mountain the more i can feel myself entering a new world. I stopped to talk to an older man sitting on a stump. I told him that i was looking for indenenous information. He looked at me very strange, like he had never been asked about that before. Maybe it was my bad spanish, or maybe that everything about what he was seeing was foreign to him. I tried rephrasing what i was looking for as many ways as i could. He was pretty unsure what to tell me. He told me to follow him, so i did. He led me to this woman and explained to her what i was looking for. She also was very surprised. I said i was looking for people, artifacts, anything. They said they have heard of a place further up the road where a family lives who maybe can help me. They pointed in the direction, and i rode that way hoping to find them. I came across a strange looking collection of houses and buildings tucked back in the forest, but nobody around. I continued exploring the area, and somehow found a tiny path with a little carved sign leading into the jungle that read sacred site. I followed. The path was overgrown, steep, and slippery. I ditched my bike right away & walked on. Eventually i found what i was looking for. An uncovered boulder etched with carvings.

The sounds of the jungle ring without end

I sat at this sacred site for awhile and listened to the sounds, thought of the people who once lived here, and tried to see what the carvings meant to me. I lost light quickly, and had to carry on. I didn’t ever find much else in Terraba. I suppose many traditions are being lost with their elders, along with sacred land once worshipped by the people.

I rode to rio Terraba & found a place to set up camp along side the river. The sunset was beautiful. I went for a swim, fished for awhile, and watched a massive fire burn over the hillside the entire night. There were some pretty strange noises coming from across the water. Lets hope whatever it is can’t swim. Throughout the night i heard big splashes in the river, and woke up to a group of cattle & horses drinking from the shores. Buenas dias.

Good fishin feet

[jermbone]

Dominical - February 4th

I peddled past familiar shops and cafes down to the ocean. Immediately feeling the comfort and tranquility of one of my favorite places to be. Dominical is a beach town i used to visit on weekend trips from a farm in the mountains of San Isidro that i used to stay at. Some of my favorite memories were made on this beach. Something about it feels like im home again.

In 2019 i met this couple in Dominical who crafts incredible organic jewelry inspired by the earth & the indigenous people of Peru. I bought a necklace from them, and wore it every day for years until one day not too long ago it busted. Things crumble so that new forms can take over. After my swim i rode through the street & recognized the couple and their crafts. I was incredibly excited to find them here again. I spoke with them for a long time about indigenous teachings, epic adventures, and the art they create together. Their english is better than before, and so is my spanish. I found a piece that i really loved. A sliced nut native to costa rica that is incredibly strong, inlaid with stones of Peru. They were so pleased that i returned at perfect timing to receive another powerful craft from them. I ran to the ocean to bless this necklace with the sea.

I ran to the lifeguard tower and yelled for a friend who i met here a few years ago. A head popped out and instantly we were excited & surprised to see each other again. Benny & his brother Juan Carlos were born in Dominical and spent their life here surfing, lifeguarding, and working in the tourism industry. When i met them a couple years ago we became friends & had so much fun dancing at the rum bar. Benny called his brother, and 5 minutes later Jaun Carlos shows up on a bike with hilarious flip up sunglasses making all sorts of hoots and hollars.

We walked down to the estuary and went fishing. I still had no luck. I’ve learned that if i dont want to carry anything, go fishing. If i want to carry more things, look for rocks and shells! I’ve added some serious weight to my pack with all that i have collected. The rest of the day i slack lined on the beach, drank fresh coconut water, and explored places and memories of the past. Today was emotional for me. Lots of laughing, tears, and apologies. I spent a lot of the day sitting with my emotions and reflecting. The ocean has a lot to say. I decided to continue my journey and leave this place of magic behind. Back to the mountains i go.

Sandwhich of the day

I caught the last bus of the evening to San Isidro with Bikey. I was advised to not bike the road leaving dominical because of the traffic on the tight winding road. It was a short bus ride, and i was ready to be in the mountains. I got to San Isidro just after dark & rode a few miles to an old friend of mine’s apartment. My pal Jerry is someone i met on a farm in Costa Rica who holds a wealth of knowledge & a willingness to share. We stayed up late discussing finance, farming, and just goofing. Jerry taught me something very valuable that night that will stick with me forever. He has been teaching me about this strategy with investing called compounding interest. The way i understand the concept is that when you make an investment you should receive interest on that investment that continously compounds in return. He looked me in the eyes as a man with over 50 years of experiencing the highs and lows, twists and turns, the gains and the losses. He said this, Jeremy, if there is any advice i could ever give you. It is to figure out what it is that brings you happiness and joy. Then ask yourself, does this also bring others joy? Or is it limited to you? By always focusing on making only yourself happy, the radius of joy that spreads is minimal. It gains no interest. By doing something that not only brings you joy, but also to others, the expansion of that joy is infinite. Like compounding interest, when you invest your life into the things that give back, your growth will forever expand. Thank you Jerry, i really needed this. Tomorrow i ride south through the mountains towards San Vito. Only a Few good days of riding before i make it to the farm. Feeling all sorts of excitement.

[jermbone]

I woke up at 4am and packed up camp surrounded by the eyeshine of big spiders. I jumped in a massive semi truck for hauling timber with Abelio & bikey and hit the road. Today im the big scary truck that could have crushed me without noticing.

The intention of this trip was never to ride my bike. Although i have so much fun doing it. I love going to the places that are hard to reach, and live for rural dirt roads through the mountains and rivers. This trip is fueled by adventure and the opportunity to learn & grow. I have a lot of that to do. There are many areas in costa rica where the only route is the highway. Especially along the coast. These are not the places for me to have fun on my bike. Imagine vehicles zooming past 3 feet away at 60kph or faster with no shoulder to ride on. & winding roads with poor visibility. You taste the fumes and get blasted by the force of wind as they rush by. There’s no room for error, or dancing. Abelio dropped me off at the intersection to Jaco at 6:30. Jaco is a touristy beach town known for mellow waves & the party scene. I rode my bike down the beach looking for a slackline spot after stocking up on fruits and veggies for the day.

I didnt find much for slack spots, and the town was a little crazy for me. Even at 7am. I somehow got a hole in my tire on some rocks, but thankfully found a bike shop that could replace it. I left jaco & rode south to the black sands of playa hermosa and felt much more comfortable. I slacklined all day, swam in ocean over and over, got bit by a bunch of ants, and met some goofy locals who tried my slack line after having a few too many beers. It was funny to watch.

Around sunset i went to a restaurant on the beach and got an amazing smoothie. Smoothies, surfs, and sunsets. The owner of the restaurant had 8 dogs and a big pig roaming the property. There were Maccaws flying around the trees flaunting their beautiful colors for all to enjoy. I was at the right spot. Roger offered for me to camp on the beach in front of his restaurant, right next to where the pig camps. Bean, carrot, cucumber and quinoa wrap for dinner. Perfect. I dance alone to the music in the courtyard at night. I lay with my head out of the tent gazing at the stars & listening to the ocean. I am happy to be where i am, but feel there is something missing. Im learning to trust in my dreams, & focus on today. Thankful for my breath, love and support from home, and friendly animal companions.

[jermbone]

Today i took a bus from Nicoya down to playa naranjo to catch the ferry ride across the gulf of Nicoya to Puntarenas. On the ferry i kicked back on the upper deck where they had a bar playing music and people drinking.

It was a relaxing ride through the ocean passing by islands scattered in the sea. I watched the sea birds fish, and tried to spot whales along the way. We moved really slowly through the water. I even dozed off for a little nap.

When i got to puntarenas i hopped on my bike and rode along the water. The beaches had black sand, and a lot of trash. I had to pee really bad, but could find no good spots. So i hopped off my bike and jumped in the ocean. Ahhh, good ocean pees. I swam for a little while to cool off. I felt something big bump into my leg. Uhh ohh, i got out of there so quick. It ended up being a 5 foot piece of lumber that washed up on shore. The traffic was pretty crazy the whole time. I hopped from sidewalk to sidewalk and even rode in some old railroad tracks that are filled in with dirt.

My goal for the night was to camp on a beach called playa tivives about 35 kilometers away. The roads were really busy, and eventually i ran out of sidewalks. I was so scared that i peddled as fast as i could out of there. Dealing with traffic is not worth any thing, so im going to skip as much of it as i can. When i got to the turn for playa tivives, i asked someone if it was the right way. He told me it was very dangerous, more dangerous than the traffic. I better find another route. Eventually i did, after riding along the highway that had signs saying no cyclist or pedestrians. Its the only option i had, so i peddled fast. When i found another route to la playa, it was already almost 5pm and the beach was still 6 miles away. I kept having alot of trouble with my gear coming loose and falling off, or getting lodged in my tire. It was really frustrating having to deal with it next to all the traffic. I turned down a dirt road and saw this big piece of land where two guys were out working. I told them i needed to find a place to camp and get off the road. They immediately invited me to stay on their property, and offered me dinner & a shower. They asked me about what i was doing in Costa Rica and why im riding my bike around. They thought it was so crazy, but cool. It turns out they harvest timber, cut it up on the property with a big sawmill and sell the lumber. A pretty rare industry in Costa rica. The owner called me over to him and he gave me like 40 bucks. WHAT! I couldn’t believe it. I told him i didnt need the money but of course he insisted. I actually had no money left at all, and the atm i found earlier wasn’t working. He told me to use it to buy dinner, fresh fruits, or whatever i wanted on my trip. He was so kind. I offered to help with anything i could in return. He told me that some day if he needs help, he knows it will come back to him. And he took off. I stayed with his workers Abelio and Don. They cooked me an incredible meal from their land and gave me a huge tomato. Juicy baby. After dinner we measured up some logs and loaded them in a big semi truck with a super cool machine. I asked about a route to Jaco with less traffic. They said there isnt one, but abelio is driving south at 5 tomorrow morning and i can ride with him. YES PLEASE! Its amazing all the times i have been in a sticky situation and rescued just when i felt stuck. Learning to trust more and more every day. Oh, and good news. Its WATERMELON SEASON.

[jermbone]

In the morning i set off across The Nicoya peninsula to work my way towards Joe and Roscos farm near the Panama border.

Margie and Alaia sent me off with a group bike ride.

Im excited to get off the coast and back into the mountains. My first 3 hours of riding involved route finding troubles that left me no choice but to have a serious chat & insults with yo momma jokes. It kept leading me up steep roads that led to a dead end. Or a path that turned into completely flooded trails that were not passable. I tried pushing my bike through these stagnant waters that were nearly waist deep when i realized that it was going to go on for miles. It was mucky, murky, and i kept seeing things moving in the water, but couldn’t see what it was. Enough of that. I turned around and backtracked once again for at least a mile.

The rest of the day i felt strong, rode hard, and pumped jams through rural villages along dirt roads. Im getting really good at dancing while i ride my bike. Thinking about auditioning for Costa Ricas got talent. Its hot, real hot. In the 90’s with strong winds coming right at me. Most of the ride was dirt roads with no traffic. But i had to ride at least 15 miles on a busy road with no room for me on my bike. People are crazy here, and do not care to move over for bikers. Its super scary, i gotta get out of here.

[jermbone]

Life is a wave dudes

My last night in Playa Grande Marjie, Coco and i went out for a sunset surf together. Dedicating our session to grandma. Watching these two sisters drift through the ocean taught me a lot about surfing. They coast with grace in the water, and flow with the oceans waves in a dance of connecting energies. Meanwhile i am getting smashed by waves, losing my board, and thinking about crocodiles. Jeremy was not built for the ocean. However, paddling out past the breaks provides a space with the ocean where the waves flow through your body in a way that is meditative, & energizing. Giving me a chance to sit & connect with a part of the earth that i never understood. The ocean is such a mystery to me. Its a world so different than the land and mountains, yet plays a crucial role to the cycles of the planet. The more i learn about the water and life under the sea, i realize how similar the land & sea systems actually are. Something about that is comforting to me. Both land and sea work to achieve balance. I have always been afraid of the ocean because i never understood it. The more i learn, the less afraid i become.

I rode down to the estuary to go fishing and try to spot some crocodiles. I didnt have any luck with either, but i had fun tip toeing through the water, pretending that if i encountered a croc i was going to go wrestlemania on him. Watch your toes, ya never knows.

Me and bikey went for a ride on this boat just for fun. Land lovers take to the sea!

[jermbone]

The great big beach

I woke up for sunrise and rode the coastal trails for a nice easy day to Playa Grande. Along the way I stopped for fruit, drank coffee, and sang lots of songs while i cruised along the beaches at low tide. The shell collecting obsession has begun! Playa grande is a place where locals and tourists alike come together all chasing one thing, the waves. I arrived to the playa early in the day. I was greeted by my rad surfer cousin Marjie who has invited me to stay with her and her daughter Alaia while i am in the area. We are going to have such a fun week catching up, and enjoying the ocean. Marjie and Coco are two super cool sisters who live here in Playa Grande to surf, kick back, and live the pura vida. The girls host surf retreats for women, and keep busy with life on la playa. Marjie’s daughter Alaia is 4 years old now. Last time i saw her she was quite shy. Certainly not any more. Alaia has been my little buddy during my stay, and i am eager for her come home from school every day to play. We read books, put on princess tattoos, shred the harmonica, make different arts & crafts, and get her ready to ride her first bike.

Alaia reading me ba ba black sheep, silly kid.

Makin pancakes and playing with our pet snake

My feet were looking pretty nasty from the stinging ants. Itching like you would not believe. Alaia pretends to be my doctor and puts oil on my feet for me. “All fixed up” she says.

Marjie is busy busy with work every day. Fully booked with massages and the tasks of being a mother. NEVER ENDING LAUNDRY. I do what i can to help, like packing Alaia’s lunch, keeping the little one entertained, and helping with dinner & dishes. Im so greatful for her letting me stay. I get to stretch out in a safe house & comfy bed every night, wash clothes and take showers. WOOO!! Alaia and i are third cousins, which means that we share the same GREAT ONE. Every day we pray for grandma together, light a candle for her by her picture, and blow out the candle before bed. Thanking grandma for bringing us all together. Marjie has been working with rekei to send healing energy to grandma and those who surround her.

Coco and her partner Tom are now living on their property they bought. Last time i was here, it was a plot of overgrown land. Now they have a shipping container that Tom has constructed additions to using metal and durarock. It is turning into an amazing little home, and a beautiful property. Comes free with a family of howler monkeys watching from the trees.

During the day i take Marjies dog Pipa down to the property to help Tom and their childhood friend KC. The first day i showed up they got a huge truck load of building materials. Blocks, metal beams, rebar, fencing, and 100 pound bags of concrete. We all busted it out with the help of the driver, who was sort of old but stronger than us all! My job for the day is my favorite job of all. Clearing brush, lighting it on fire, and making sure it doesn’t get out of control. In this dry guanacaste climate, things light up quickly. Tom gave me a tour of virtual reality while we went inside for a break. It blew my mind a little. After 15 minutes i started to have an upset stomach and feel trapped in this new reality. It was fun, but WOAH. I had to get out of there. Tom is working on constructing their bathroom off the back of the shipping container. This involves digging holes, pouring footings, and welding beams together for the frame. Tom gave me a crash course on welding. He says “i dont weld, but im welding.” Good enough for me. He was a great teacher and i had way fun figuring it out. Thanks Tom! We blasted punk rock, never could drink enough water, and got burned a couple times from hot metal. Pipa has a great time being a free dog, looking for things to eat, and sleeping in the shade. Im so happy to have a dog friend to keep me company in playa grande.

A biiig stick bug, can you spot him?

I ride my bike down to the beach for sunset nearly every afternoon. Some times i swim, surf, or just sit on the beach and watch the birds dive for fish while the waves crash on the rocks. Surfing is the hardest sport I’ve ever tried. Im constantly getting worked by the oceans energy. The ocean can be incredibly bliss and relaxing. It can also be violent and powerful. Either way it’s great to get out on the water and give it what i got. Lots of water in every crevice of my body. Saltwater cleanse i suppose.

[jermbone]

Moana theme song playing in the background -

January 25

As soon as i got to the sand, i set my bike down, threw my shirt off, and ran full speed into the waves. As i came up from underwater to take a fresh breath, the sun had just touched down on the horizon. Truly a moment of ecstasy. I made it to the ocean. No thoughts filled my mind but those of pure joy. I set up camp in a little cove of trees just off of the water. After sunset there was nobody on the beach but myself and the creatures of the Costa Rican night. I found embers still burning from a fire someone must have made earlier in the day. I used the embers to start a fire of my own while i set up camp. The fire burned for hours while i relaxed under the moon, practiced my kartwheels in the sand, and enjoyed the crashing sounds of waves beneath me. What’s for dinner tonight? Tuna, black beans, & cucumber all wrapped in a tortilla with my favorite beach seasoning. SAND. I shared my dinner with a stray dog who showed up, and the herds of hermit crabs who marched through my camp during the night. Plenty of company in this moment of paradise on the ocean. It was a big day, but i made it.

[jermbone]

The Heat will drive a man crazy - January 25

Today i made it out of the mountains and into the northwest Guanacaste region of Costa Rica. Here, the sun is intense, the air is dry, and the stinging ants are angry. I left the busy city of Liberia as quickly as i could. In the short time i was there, this place did me dirty. 10 minutes after getting out of town and finding some dirt roads, i was chased by two dogs who looked hungry for my legs. I tried kicking & barking back at them, but they managed to chase me off the narrow path. I smashed into a rock, wiped out, and popped my front tube in my tire. The dogs left me alone after that. I picked my bike up, and noticed that i crashed right in front of a police station. An officer came out & we laughed about my crash. It was sort of funny. Im sure even better to watch. The officer helped me patch the two holes in my tube, gave me lots of water, and advice for camping along the coast. Rolling rolling.

About a mile later i pulled off the road to pee. I started flowing and noticed both of my feet were entirely covered in stinging ants. Instantly my feet were ON FIRE. I was peeing everywhere, once you start you cant stop. I shook my feet violently, ran around like mad. All while holding my bike, and trying not to pee on myself. Before you know it, the ants were on everything. For a couple miles i was getting stung all over. My plan was to ride as fast as i could so they would blow off in the wind. Little by little it worked. The stinging is one thing, but the itching to come the next day is far worse. I rode fast.

I found a little tobacco shop getting out of the city. It was cool to ask about their process, and fun to smell their different crafted cigars. Some Soaked in rum, and some in whiskey.

Without having to climb much elevation by the coast you can move really quickly. My goal for the night was to make it to the ocean, and camp on a secluded beach under the moon. As i got closer to the coast, the hills came out again. I looked for as rural and rugged of paths as i could find. With river crossings, howler monkeys, and shade from the forests. I was doing really great route finding, until i wasn’t. Google maps showed me a path to the beach i was going to camp at. When i got to the path i realized it wasn’t much of a path at all. It was insanely steep, completely overgrown, and went on for miles. To get back to a main road i would have had to ride up really steep grades for a long ways. I decided to go for it & blaze my own path with chacos and all. I have never been challenged more physically and mentally to make it out of this path. It was far too steep to ride my bike, and even pushing it was difficult. I kept slipping back, getting sliced by pokey plants, and losing sun quickly.

I was on this “path” for hours and checked my map. It looked like i hardly moved. I was sweating like crazy, & starting to lose my mind. I sang loudly, probably not making any sense, in hopes i would scare off any snakes or predators. I kept telling myself wow Jeremy you really did it this time. You wanted off road and you sure got it. I yelled for help from my grandma, my mom, Brenden, for Copper, for Bear grills, all of it! I was losing sun quickly, and decided there was a good chance i needed to set up camp out here for the night. I stopped, ate a mango, and thought about what to do. I had a chat with my bike. Ive been calling him Bikey a lot lately, so thats his name now i guess. Every rattle, click and clank are words of wisdom. I listen to them all. Some are complaints, some are sounds of joy. We kept walking. Very slowly. There was a point where i thought i lost my jacket, my favorite jacket. So i put my bike down, dropped my pack, and ran back down the trail a long ways to look for it. I never found my jacket. I said to myself, “ i don’t have the energy, the sunlight, or the jacket to make it out of here tonight.” About 15 minutes later i realized my jacket was in my handlebar stuff sack the entire time. Im actually going crazy out here. After being psyched that i actually had my jacket, i kept on moving. I talked to the sun, and asked him to wait up for me. Finally, i saw some power lines. I popped out of the forest and onto a dirt path. As soon as i came out i was welcomed with my first view of the ocean. What a gift it was. I almost started crying i was so happy. It was about 5:20 and the sun was barely hanging in there. From here it was a cruiser ride down to the beach. All that climbing i just had to do, i got to ride all the way down to the water. I rode sooo fast. I was determined to make it for a sunset swim.

The first glimpse of freedom

[jermbone]

Building community - January 23rd & 24th

My plan was to get off lake arenal and head into a rural mountainous area for a few days. My bike has been acting up more and more lately. It keeps throwing the chain when i switch gears peddling up steep grades. Super annoying! I think my front sprockets are a little bent, so i decided i better get it fixed before heading into the middle of nowhere. So i cycled around to the southwest side of the lake for about 30 miles to a town called Tilaran. The only cycle shop for a long long way. I climbed some pretty steep hills getting away from the lake, but the ride down to Tilaran was so fun. I was going a little too fast and came around a tight turn and wiped out going at least 30mph. I deserved that one. Luckily it did not hurt at all. I flew off the road and landed in some thick grass. A graceful wipeout i must say. My front rim is a little bit bent, but at least my face is not. As soon as i got into Tilaran i thought wow, i can’t wait to get out of here. But the more i cycled around and met the nice people at the bike shop, i quickly felt the charm of the town. The meaning of Tilaran is “wind, and water.” Windy indeed it is. I was fed an amazing traditional plate of food for close to nothing, and found a park with wifi, phone chargers, and trees littered with iguanas that were perfect for slacklining. As i was getting ready to head out, i blew the tube in my back tire. No idea how. Thank goodness it happened here. Unfortunately the bike shop was already closed, and closed the next day too because it was Sunday. I guess im going to have to hangout. At night i found a cool little coffee shop. I told the workers inside that i was just looking, and would come back for coffee in the morning. They told me they were closed until 2pm and i said “but coffee is best in the morning!” They laughed & invited me inside for a refill on my water, a free cup of their personal coffee roast, and a dessert called tres leches that i will never forget! Its sooo good! The two girls who run the coffee shop were best friends, & spoke english pretty well. When i asked them how they learned, they said “ehhh, well i used to watch the show friends a lot.” The girls had a friend who owned a hotel in town, so they got me a room for super cheap because there is nowhere safe to camp nearby. I have been so blessed with friendly locals who have helped me every step of the way. I do my best to show gratitude and be helpful to them in any way i can. The next morning i went for a run through the mountains, got chased by dogs, played with some kids in the park, and caught up on things i needed to get done. Oh, and ate lots of mangos of course. Im getting good at that. Some of my clothes were getting moldy from being rained on for so many days. So i took advantage of my shower. I put my dirty clothes on, hopped in, and scrubbed with soap like no other inside and out. Jeremy, you’re a genius. With the Tilaran wind and sunshine, they dried outside in no time.

Tilaran had super funny little road side workout equipment. You better believe i pumped that iron.

The girls invited me to hangout with them and a few of their friends at night. We ate pizza, and talked about all sorts of things. They told me i speak Spanish really well, and they are very impressed. Paula’s son was hungry and requested his favorite meal, eggs and toast. I got so excited, and had to show him my new tattoo. He thought i was SO COOL. Anyone who loves eggs and toast like i do is cool with me too. They taught me all sorts of costa rican slang, and even a lot of bad words. We said our farewells and they assured me that if i ever needed anything in Costa Rica that they would be there in a heartbeat.

We all took a shot of this alcohol made from sugar cane called Guaro. It is the drink of the ticos.

As soon as the bike shop opened in the morning i got my bike all set to go. This time buying some spare parts just incase im not so lucky to be by a bike shop next time. Next stop, the heat of Guanacaste. One step closer to family, and the healing waters of the ocean.

Side note! I have a new favorite bird called Montezuma Oropendola. Their sound can only be created with magic.

[jermbone]

Rollin around the lake - January 22

The next morning Alvaro made me breakfast. “Energy, for your journey” he said. I took off with a smile, ready to take on the next adventure. I rode to a place called Rio Caliente which means hot river. False advertising, the river was cold. Luckily im not exactly freezing riding my bike around. It was very refreshing. I rode to another spot on Lake Arenal to find somewhere with internet to call my dad, and go for another swim in the lake. My greatest great grandma has fallen ill recently. My dad was able to give me an update that she was heading home soon, to be with good company in the last bit of her journey. Im so thankful i was able to spend time with her, and listen to the stories of her life while i was home. The one bad thing about time is that there is never enough. She will be with me always. I am so grateful for the way she never stops believing in me and my brother. If grandma would want anything, its for me to keep moving forward. So that is what i will do.

Visiting with grandma when i was home. Check out those slippers. Stylin.

I rode around the lake, singing and enjoying the views as i go. I stopped to see one of the oldest trees in Costa Rica. They call it The Tree of Avatar. It is a 500 year old Ceiba tree, that is recognized by indigenous people in the area to hold great power as it watches over Lake Arenal. The climb to the tree was steep, and muddy. I fell many times and got a much needed mud bath. Trying not to get frustrated, all i can do is laugh. In the jungle surrounded by enchanting flowers and the magical sounds of Costa Rica’s birds, i stand for some time with this tree. Feeling every bit of its might.

Microphones in the forest. You’ll never guess what i was singing. Well, maybe you could.

A few more miles around the lake i spotted a little peninsula that looks like the coolest camp spot. Home for the night indeed. No mas lluvia por favor. I met a lady on the peninsula from the U.S. who had a dog that really loved to bark at me. We chatted for a long time, and i enjoyed speaking in english with someone for the first time on my trip. She asked me why i am so adventurous. What a great question. In the moment i thought of my great grandfather. A man i never had the chance to really know. My grandma always tells me how much i am like him, and that he is always with me when i go on these adventures. Soon my grandma will join him once again in peace, and together they will watch over me.

[jermbone]

Wet, but not in debt - January 21

It poured rain all night, and the entire day today. I decided to stay another night with the family and wait for the rain to pass. I had an exciting few days, and time to kill while i take refuge from the storm. So i started writing. During the rainy day i explored their farm & played with the kids. I taught them to play tic tac toe, hangman, and frisbee. We also hung out with the horses in the corral for hours. Alvaros wife and the kids abuela made me breakfast with rice, beans, eggs, and delicious coffee. Im ready to keep moving, but they are sure making my stay pleasant. I offered to help Alvaro with work for the day, but he took off on a horse with a machete this morning by himself & a couple dogs. No idea what they are up to, but i bet its fun.

This is my buddy Toby. He wasnt really supposed to be in the house, but he snuck in when everyone went to bed. He really wanted to cuddle, but i watched him repeatedly roll in horse poop. So he laid on the floor with his head on the edge of the bed for me to pet him. In the morning some people came by, Alvaro tied up Toby and put him in their car. No more Toby he said. What the heck man.

Toby appreciation photo

Alvaro returned in the early afternoon. He quickly left on a 4 wheeler with a trailer, and came back 30 minutes later with a cow that they killed. Tonight i learned how to butcher a cow. With 5 people it took only 2 hours to have everything finished. Nearly everything from the cow gets used for something. The entire family was part of the process. We played music and got to work while it poured rain as usual. Im grateful for the experience, but it was not easy. I personally believe that meat in moderation is an important part of a healthy diet for me. However, consuming food produced in the industrial agriculture system does not support the health of our planet. Harvesting this animal was an experience full of enrichment. Some day i hope to use skills like these to provide for my family in a way that supports la tierra and its natural cycles. Tonight we nourish ourselves with the gifts from the earth. Thank you.

[jermbone]

Here comes the rain - january 20

Today i rode around 30 miles to Arenal Volcano. I stopped at a place called Tabacon, a hot spring river in the jungle. I pushed my bike through the river and down steep banks to make sure i could keep an eye on my things. There was another family there who got a kick out of watching me do that. They offered to watch my things for me. The grandpa was trying to get me to ride my bike down the river. Shoulda sent it. I relaxed in the river for a while, played like a little boy, and hit the road refreshed.

It was raining for most of the day, so i planned to make camp early to set myself up to stay dry. I explored this ecological reserve on lake Arenal, and planned to camp in there. But there was signs about crocodiles everywhere and no good spot to camp. So i kept moving. I accidentally took a wrong turn, but glad i did because it was a really fun section of dirt/mud through dense jungle with lots of wild life and views of the lake.

Lake Arenal

I ended up finding camp on a families property who offer ATV and horse riding tours. It rained hard the entire time i set up camp. I used one of their tarps for extra rain protection. It was not working. I was soaked and quite miserable. Just when i was about to grab my book & sleeping bag and take refuge in the horse corral for the night, the owner Alvaro came and told me to stay with them inside. This family saved me from the longest night of my life. It poured rain all night harder than i have ever seen before. Non stop. The winds were whipping and lifting the tin roof off of the house. The family lives in the front of their chicken coop in a run down little shack. I stayed on the front porch on a little bed they made me. When i came in they brought me a huge plate of my favorite costa rican food. Rice, beans, choyote, yucca, carrots, and chicken. Everything except for the rice came from their land. It was truly amazing, and instantly lifted my spirits. With a little patients, things always work out.

[jermbone]

Mountain breezys on the kneezys - January 18

Today i started cycling through the mountains. No section of the road is straight or flat. I rode around 40 miles and climbed 4,000 feet in elevation. I went farther than i planned, but i was feeling good and having fun. I rode through thick jungle, and passed by small villages with farms and little fruit stands here and there. I switched between listening to the sounds of Costa Rica, and blasting tunes while i flew through the mountains. Some times you just have to pedal in the lowest of the low gear for a long time through steep sections. That part is not always fun. But each pedal up is worth every second of cruising down. My top speed for the day was 41 mph. EPIC. I cant help but make noises like im riding a dirtbike, and shouting while i fly down these winding mountain roads. I explored down this river i crossed and found an amazing waterfall. I swam in the river, went fishing, tested out 40 foot vines for rope swings, and laid in the sun.

I also made frequent stops to munch on mangos and bananas. As my grandpa would say, “take 5.” So far the only threat of Costa Rica is eating too many bananas and getting a bellyache. BANANA MONSTER. The air was starting to feel like rain moving in. I happened to meet this older lady who had a little cabin with a warm shower and cozy bed for 12 dollars. So with the threat of the rain i decided to stay there for the night. Im glad i did, it poured the entire night. I got the best sleep I’ve had in months.

Free roadside attractions, mi amigos la vacas.

I crossed several rivers today, there is such an abundance of fresh water in Costa Rica. Truly a blessing.

I also visited a butterfly and hummingbird sanctuary along the way. It was a nice little break from riding & i was the only one there.

[jermbone]

“Sleep” with one eye open - January 17th 2021

The next day i wandered through the city, planning my next move. I needed some wifi for a minute, so i went looking for a restaurant. I found this place that i thought sold pizza, so i walked through the gate and went upstairs. I was met by a family who had an obvious confused look on their face why i was in their house. Woops. They ended up being an incredibly welcoming family who invited me to stay with them for the night, and use their internet. They do not sell pizza, but we had dinner together, and they showed me around their neighborhood. It was a big family. A mother and 8 kids. They kept me entertained with their rabbit, 3 kittens, and trying to understand all the questions the kids were asking me.

Not sure if he enjoyed me holding him as much as i did.

Most of the time it was only me, the mom, and the 2 youngest girls. But the entire family came at night and wanted to take a photo.

I pitched my hammock on their balcony. We worked together to rig it, and everyone of course wanted to try. When night fell i started to get a strange feeling from the oldest son. I asked him if the neighborhood was dangerous and if i was okay to sleep here. He said there is not a lot of danger and while he is there i will be safe. I did not sleep the entire night. The son stayed on the balcony with me while he sold & did drugs all night. He was being super strange, no idea what drugs he was dealing, but it was not cool. I slept with my knife on my chest, and all my belongings underneath me. He was discreet with his drug dealing, & kept telling me he was sorry. I packed up when the sun came up. The boys mom told me first thing in the morning that she was sorry about her son. I told her it was alright, and that i hope he is okay. I thanked her again for letting me stay, and hit the road.

[jermbone]

Day 1 in the Costa Rican Sun - escape the city

My first couple days in Costa Rica were quite an adventure. I landed in San Jose at 1am, and immediately stopped by immigration. There are many requirements to enter Costa Rica because of the pandemic. They didn’t even ask about those. What did they want? Well, they were pretty suspicious of my passport. Copper was feeling anxious while i was at school one day, and decided to chew on my passport a little. The officer took off with my passport for at least 10 minutes. I was starting to think he wasnt coming back, but he did. Thank goodness he let me through! They must have been amused by the story, and forgot to check for my other required documents. Thanks Copper (:

My plan was to hang out at the airport until Sunrise, but with Covid still prevalent in the city they have a 10pm curfew and closed down the airport. So i hit the road. Luckily i met Marisa at the airport who was traveling from the UK. She had issues with immigration of her own. We teamed up and conquered the night.

I bought a used bike from someone i met in the capital San Jose. It seems like the best way to have the freedom im looking for. To go where i want, when i want. It has been funny rigging all my gear to the bike to get it off my back. Zip ties, paracord, and some dry bags will do the trick. I dont have much. Slack line, hammock, speaker, sleeping bag, and some peanut butter. The essentials of course.

This dog followed me around the city. He was the only one to not bark at me today. Thanks big guy.