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good luck with your pulls! 💒

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Qun (裙) Tutorial

Here are the basics on how to draft a waist-high Qun (skirt).

Qun are wrap around skirts that are often pleated and tied with long sashes. They are usually paired with a top (ru/襦).

For a Qiyao Ruqun/齐腰襦裙, or waist-high ruqun, the skirt is usually one piece, unlike Qixiong Ruqun/ 齐胸襦裙, or chest-high ruqun which is split at the sides.

Qun are worn by both men and women, and can be paired with various hanfu styles or hanyuansu. There are tons of ways to customize the qun depending on the material you use, the amount of “swing” or width of the skirt, and the style you’re going for.

A product may advertise a “six-meter swing” qun which indicates it has a lot of fabric!

Images from Taobao (x) (x)

This particular style is altered to be more comfortable and modern. Unlike traditional qun, this version has a slit in the waistband for the ties so that they cross more naturally and meet together in the front. 

First, did you take your measurements? Please see my post on measurements if you are drafting! (x). All you need is your waist circumference, and waist-to-floor measurement. 

Next, let’s look at a technical flat.

The skirt consists of:

Small Waist Panel x1

Large Waist Panel x 1

Skirt x 2

Skirt Lining x 2 (optional)

Ties x2

You might be able to get away with using only one skirt panel if your fabric is wide enough or you don’t have many pleats. For fuller skirts, use at least two panels. The number and style of pleats is up to the designer. Knife pleats are common, but you can do box pleats, inverted box pleats, irregular pleating for a unique twist, small pleats, large pleats… whatever! All it requires is that the skirt lines up with the waistband.

It is recommended that you use a non-stretchy and durable fabric for the waist panels. The skirt panels can be whatever you want. Personally, I like to use a sheer overlay fabric with a solid lining underneath.

Because it’s hard to explain how to construct the waistband with the slit, an additional tutorial will be posted with instructions.

Please do not Repost. Click for better quality.

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How to tell the difference between the kinds of undergarments?

Hi, thanks for the question!

There are two categories of undergarments for hanfu: Zhong Yi/中衣 (middle clothes) and Nei Yi/内衣 (inner clothes). As you can guess, the hanfu that is worn as the outermost layer is called Wai Yi/外衣 (outer clothes).

1) Zhong Yi are worn by both males and females. Appearance-wise they look like regular hanfu, but they can only be worn inside of other clothes. They are usually white, but can be other colors as well. Going outside with only Zhong Yi on is regarded as impolite, but they can be worn as lounge-wear and/or pajamas at home. Zhong Yi is required when dressing in formal attire for important events.

For females (note - the top can be tucked into the skirt):

For males:

Here’s a photo of Zhong Yi:

2) Nei Yi commonly refers to the chest undergarments that women wear with hanfu. They play the same role as a brassiere does, but they are longer, covering the belly as well. Their appearance has changed throughout history, as can be seen in picture below:

For the sake of simplicity, I will just introduce the type of Nei Yi that is currently the most commonly worn with hanfu: Mo Xiong/抹胸. The Mo Xiong is the square/rectangular undergarment that is exposed when paired with parallel-collar ruqun (left - pink Mo Xiong) and beizi (right - blue Mo Xiong):

The Mo Xiong can come with or without straps. Here is how to wear the strapless version:

And here are some Mo Xiong with straps:

For further info/pics, I have an underwear tag you can take a look at.

Hope this helps!

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In the quiet of his cave, Wei Wuxian admits to the truth; he is tired. Tired of rage and care, of sadness and blood. He feels the exhaustion deep in his bones.

He doesn't have it under control, any of it. Maybe he never did.

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💥💥💥💥💥

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*jwqs spoilers*

The PDL author's note for JWQS chapter 230 is one of my favorites. The author responds to readers who feel Qi Yan is too enthusiastically helping jingnv's cause and abandoning her own people.

Translation (mine, rough and imperfect) and thoughts below.

Please also read Melts' translation of the AN, which is more spare and very accurate and very good. In my trans, I wanted to emphasize some nuances that were interesting to me.

It's been a while since I last wrote a long author's note. Today I must write another.

Yesterday I saw a commenter say Qi Yan is another GuiZu LanHai (TN: internet term for traitor to one's people or country, fanboy who kneels to the enemy). They argue Qi Yan took on so much hatred and unresolved revenge, but she's still helping JingNv and turning her back to her people. I respect every reader's viewpoint. Discussion is a good thing, so I thank you here. And then I thought about it. I believe I have already scattered among several chapters the reasons Qi Yan has for acting like this, so here in the author's note I'll simply sketch out those reasons for this reader, as well as other friends with the same confusion.

First, some superficial reasons:

1. Qi Yan doesn't have many countrymen left. The remaining grass plains people are Tu Ba fighters who ceded to Wei. Qi Yan hates them as well. Cheng Li tribe by now has practically been exterminated.

2. Qi Yan hasn't abandoned his quest for revenge. But unlike Ba Yin and Xiao Die, she experienced more spiritual and psychological anguish [after the genocide], while they were tortured physically and materially. That past shaped them differently.

3. On the one hand, Qi Yan has feelings for Jing Nv. On the other, Qi Yan personally brought about NanGong Rang's death and confessed to secrets that had been repressed for years. A psychologist might say Qi Yan has gotten [cathartic] release for the hatred and blame in her heart.

4. I wrote Qi Yan to be constantly changing throughout the story, from the early Qi Yan who wanted to destroy the entire Wei kingdom, just like Ba Yin and Xiao Die, to follow her growth as she sees more of the world and slowly shrinks the target of her revenge. But the NanGong family, XingJing Fu, TaiWei Fu, Ding Yi clan -- I have kept these as her enemies from the beginning to the end. So while Qi Yan loves JingNv, she still killed NanGong Rang.

It's just that Nangong JingNv has been taken off the list...

5. Let's not forget, Qi Yan is herself of mixed race. Her mother is a Wei woman.

6. Qi Yan is helping JingNv because she loves her. She isn't betraying the plains. As the emperor, for JingNv losing means death. Qi Yan believes she has already exacted revenge for her people. Her remaining enemies she will manage one by one. She doesn't want to start a war.

This is not a betrayal of the plains. So long as they don't send troops, the plains can maintain its current state. Its peoples have experienced brutal violence and injustice, a debt that indeed Wei can never repay, but the peace it has now... whoever destroys it will bring about a new tragedy.

These are mine and Qi Yan's thoughts, which I have folded into the novel. Qi Yan is not a woman who kneels and licks and never will be (TN: lit. kneeling and licking, like a simp, obsequious, fawning). She faces so many difficulties. Even I, the author, can not fathom everything. That's the kind of thing each person can only know for themselves.

Letting go is more difficult than getting revenge.

But Qi Yan hasn't let go. She has only stopped hating the ordinary people of Wei.

Falling in love with NanGong JingNv, that was an accident. And it also... well.

Thank you everyone who donated. There will be an update tomorrow.

There's one pronoun shift in the author's note where PDL refers to Qi Yan w male pronouns. I liked that, so I kept it.

So something I feel the commenter misses is just how much brutal revenge Qi Yan has already visited on Wei people. Remember how Ding You practices his medicine on scores of dying homeless Wei people? Those people are suffering because of Qi Yan. She exacerbated famines. She created poverty where it wasn't there before. She deepened the inequity of a, yes, already horrible empire. People are suffering as a result. Add also, the many commoners she murdered herself to protect Xiao Die and get her political way.

So that's why I think PDL says "Qi Yan believes she has already exacted revenge for her people". Qi Yan spent years pushing Wei to the brink. She no longer wants genocide of its people, hence hesitating to move troops... but she has doomed it as a country and a government.

Also, she has already fucked with her enemies. We as readers have watched her do unspeakable things! She has killed or contemplated killing several people, including children. Nearly a whole clan. She grit her teeth and murdered people who were directly responsible for the genocide of her people.

When Qi Yan sent a note to NanGong JingNv while visiting Ba Yin on the plains, I was like... really, dude? With Ba Yin right there? He endured torture, slavery, abuse, dehumanization. He's raising your sister's child, a product of rape. I thought it was messing with her arc... like, already valuing your wife above your people? This early in the story? But like PDL says, Qi Yan wants to avoid war. And it doesn't serve HER people to go to war... it serves Jiya's. Her love for her wife is significant, but it's not the complete reason for her actions. She is also reflecting her own values.

Also chilling: Her tribe was actually, genuinely destroyed. No one is left.

I believe PDL has been clear that Ba Yin and Xiao Die are justified for taking a hardline stance against the Wei. I also love that unlike Jiya's tribe and the masked person, they are more hesitant to actually commit genocide because of the same experiences that make them hate Wei... and a realization they dont personally benefit from it. They aren't nonviolent, but Qi Yan is definitely more scary. They have their own principles they stick to, while Qi Yan often compromises hers. I like that. PDL is ABOUT it.

[igaku0]

*jwqs spoilers*

The PDL author's note for JWQS chapter 230 is one of my favorites. The author responds to readers who feel Qi Yan is too enthusiastically helping jingnv's cause and abandoning her own people.

Translation (mine, rough and imperfect) and thoughts below.

Please also read Melts' translation of the AN, which is more spare and very accurate and very good. In my trans, I wanted to emphasize some nuances that were interesting to me.

It's been a while since I last wrote a long author's note. Today I must write another.

Yesterday I saw a commenter say Qi Yan is another GuiZu LanHai (TN: internet term for traitor to one's people or country, fanboy who kneels to the enemy). They argue Qi Yan took on so much hatred and unresolved revenge, but she's still helping JingNv and turning her back to her people. I respect every reader's viewpoint. Discussion is a good thing, so I thank you here. And then I thought about it. I believe I have already scattered among several chapters the reasons Qi Yan has for acting like this, so here in the author's note I'll simply sketch out those reasons for this reader, as well as other friends with the same confusion.

First, some superficial reasons:

1. Qi Yan doesn't have many countrymen left. The remaining grass plains people are Tu Ba fighters who ceded to Wei. Qi Yan hates them as well. Cheng Li tribe by now has practically been exterminated.

2. Qi Yan hasn't abandoned his quest for revenge. But unlike Ba Yin and Xiao Die, she experienced more spiritual and psychological anguish [after the genocide], while they were tortured physically and materially. That past shaped them differently.

3. On the one hand, Qi Yan has feelings for Jing Nv. On the other, Qi Yan personally brought about NanGong Rang's death and confessed to secrets that had been repressed for years. A psychologist might say Qi Yan has gotten [cathartic] release for the hatred and blame in her heart.

4. I wrote Qi Yan to be constantly changing throughout the story, from the early Qi Yan who wanted to destroy the entire Wei kingdom, just like Ba Yin and Xiao Die, to follow her growth as she sees more of the world and slowly shrinks the target of her revenge. But the NanGong family, XingJing Fu, TaiWei Fu, Ding Yi clan -- I have kept these as her enemies from the beginning to the end. So while Qi Yan loves JingNv, she still killed NanGong Rang.

It's just that Nangong JingNv has been taken off the list...

5. Let's not forget, Qi Yan is herself of mixed race. Her mother is a Wei woman.

6. Qi Yan is helping JingNv because she loves her. She isn't betraying the plains. As the emperor, for JingNv losing means death. Qi Yan believes she has already exacted revenge for her people. Her remaining enemies she will manage one by one. She doesn't want to start a war.

This is not a betrayal of the plains. So long as they don't send troops, the plains can maintain its current state. Its peoples have experienced brutal violence and injustice, a debt that indeed Wei can never repay, but the peace it has now... whoever destroys it will bring about a new tragedy.

These are mine and Qi Yan's thoughts, which I have folded into the novel. Qi Yan is not a woman who kneels and licks and never will be (TN: lit. kneeling and licking, like a simp, obsequious, fawning). She faces so many difficulties. Even I, the author, can not fathom everything. That's the kind of thing each person can only know for themselves.

Letting go is more difficult than getting revenge.

But Qi Yan hasn't let go. She has only stopped hating the ordinary people of Wei.

Falling in love with NanGong JingNv, that was an accident. And it also... well.

Thank you everyone who donated. There will be an update tomorrow.

There's one pronoun shift in the author's note where PDL refers to Qi Yan w male pronouns. I liked that, so I kept it.

So something I feel the commenter misses is just how much brutal revenge Qi Yan has already visited on Wei people. Remember how Ding You practices his medicine on scores of dying homeless Wei people? Those people are suffering because of Qi Yan. She exacerbated famines. She created poverty where it wasn't there before. She deepened the inequity of a, yes, already horrible empire. People are suffering as a result. Add also, the many commoners she murdered herself to protect Xiao Die and get her political way.

So that's why I think PDL says "Qi Yan believes she has already exacted revenge for her people". Qi Yan spent years pushing Wei to the brink. She no longer wants genocide of its people, hence hesitating to move troops... but she has doomed it as a country and a government.

Also, she has already fucked with her enemies. We as readers have watched her do unspeakable things! She has killed or contemplated killing several people, including children. Nearly a whole clan. She grit her teeth and murdered people who were directly responsible for the genocide of her people.

When Qi Yan sent a note to NanGong JingNv while visiting Ba Yin on the plains, I was like... really, dude? With Ba Yin right there? He endured torture, slavery, abuse, dehumanization. He's raising your sister's child, a product of rape. I thought it was messing with her arc... like, already valuing your wife above your people? This early in the story? But like PDL says, Qi Yan wants to avoid war. And it doesn't serve HER people to go to war... it serves Jiya's. Her love for her wife is significant, but it's not the complete reason for her actions. She is also reflecting her own values.

Also chilling: Her tribe was actually, genuinely destroyed. No one is left.

I believe PDL has been clear that Ba Yin and Xiao Die are justified for taking a hardline stance against the Wei. I also love that unlike Jiya's tribe and the masked person, they are more hesitant to actually commit genocide because of the same experiences that make them hate Wei... and a realization they dont personally benefit from it. They aren't nonviolent, but Qi Yan is definitely more scary. They have their own principles they stick to, while Qi Yan often compromises hers. I like that. PDL is ABOUT it.

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薬屋のひとりごと ⟡ THE APOTHECARY DIARIES

»» @animangacreators challenge twenty eight : winter 2024

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✿❀○ KUSURIYA NO HITORIGOTO ❃ MAOMAO ○❀✿

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I saw this meme and thought of them

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Boothill got surrounded

(Based of that one sonic image :) )

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welcome to our world

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Boothill hcs!! (I was gonna edit all his eidolons but that's too much work)

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One of my favorite things abt MXTX’s works is just like the intense freak4freak energy. LWJ seeing everything WWX does, from his typical incredibly kind, selfess behavior to him being completely feral and just being like. Yeah I need him. One of the famously reticent twin jades just does not gaf like he would turn his back on the cultivation world for, like, a chance at (awkwardly) making his move. Or actually just being in the same vicinity as WWX. Whenever I go back to MDZS Im always laughing hearing WWX’s perspective of LWJ bc. He thinks hes so upright and proper and its like sir,,, that man just basically kabedoned you in front of half of the world’s biggest sect leaders. Idiot. Hua Cheng basically wrote HC/Dianxia fanfiction for 800 years while searching for XL and building an entire city, supposedly just so he would have a way to provide for XL. XL learns abt this in the cave of ten thousand gods and FX and MQ are like,,, hes a stalker RUN. And XL is like,,, *twirls hair* omg so its like that..,, HC is so worried abt how XL will react but like sir have u considered that he’s worse than you. God I love them lol.

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how does the dove grieve for the robin