homeiscalifornia
Home is MEXICO
Update: I still don't know what I'm doing with my life.
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This guy is really funny. I don't know his name but he looks like an Esteban.
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These pictures are awful and don't do the place justice but believe me, when you’re here all you want to do is sing “Mexico en la Piel” by Luis Miguel
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Mystical, Musical, Magical Valle de Bravo
So how did I spend my Sunday in Mexico, I hear you ask. I did not go to mass, that’s for sure. Before going to sleep on Saturday my tía Martha asked me if I wanted to accompany her to mass at 7:00 am and I laughed so hard I almost fell off my chair.
The following day, my tía Martha asked me if I would like to join her, her husband (tío Jose), her two sons (Sergio and Jose David), and Sergio’s wife and two kids to a Toluca vs. I have no idea soccer game. I said no because I already promised my tía Bertha I would spend Sunday with her.
My tía Martha looked at me like I just ate a child.
“Laurita, you don’t understand, we won't be around people, we will have a private room where we will be watching the game and there will be servers bringing us food.”
I felt kinda bad but told her that although I appreciated the invitation, I already promised my tía Bertha that I would spend Sunday with her and that I didn’t really like watching soccer.
That last part is a lie, of course. I LOVE watching soccer but not because I care about the game. No- I watch soccer for the men (the really attractive ones). ;)
My tía Martha looked a bit upset but decided it was best to stop insisting and began to walk me over to my tía Bertha’s house (people coddle me too much here, she lives next door!). When I got there, my tía Bertha had cafecito and cookies waiting for me. I don’t really like store-bought cookies but damn those Chokis are the best damn ultra-processed crap I’ve ever had. Highly recommend them, unless you’re on a sugar detox. Then there came the tamale. Boy, was I excited for the tamale! I took a bite and realized it had an odd texture. I looked at my plate and yup, it was meat. I tried to not make a big deal out of it because I didn’t want my aunt to feel bad but that was the first time I had meat in 9 years. My tía Bertha apologized profusely and I played it cool saying, “Oh no, don’t worry!” And guess what? I did not make a single disgusted face. Am I going to heaven or what?
After this gross episode of me eating a dead animal, my tía Bertha and her husband, tío Alonso, announced we were going to Valle del Bravo (jot it down, guys, JOT IT DOWN). I had no idea what the hell this was but my tía Bertha told me it was known as a “Pueblo Magico” (~ooohhhh~). My cousin, Gabriela, her one-year-old baby (Valeria), and her husband (Sergio) were also joining us so we waited for them. Once they arrived we said hello and Sergio began to drive. While he drove, we had a long chit- chat about how funny my dad is and my tía Bertha confessed he was her favorite cousin- someone please give my father a cookie (a Choki, of course). We also talked about weddings, boyfriends, why I don’t have one (because I’m ugly), and Mexican politics (it’s a mess and we still don’t know who’s running for president next year). As we talked, I noticed the scenery began to change. We went from rural Mexico to lush green forestry. It’s like I was magically transported to Yosemite and I swear to Jesus, I did not know Mexico could look like this.
Our first stop in Valle de Bravo was the “Velo de Novia” waterfall. As we walked down the rocky terrain (mind you, I was wearing wedges but managed just fine), we ran into this mini flea market type thing where indigenous people were selling rebozos (like scarves but better), jewelry, Mexican peasant shirts, pottery, etc. If you know me, you know I love Mexican pottery so of course, I told a man to reserve a cup and a teapot for me to purchase on my way back.
As we walked down, the path got steeper and rockier so I prayed to the Lord Jesus to protect me while I cussed myself out merciless for not bringing flats. I effed up. Anyway, once we reached a place with a decent view, we took some pictures and watched some weirdos swimming right by the waterfall. My tío Alonso told me that when a single woman comes to see the Velo de Novia for the first time, she must shower with the waterfall’s waters or else, she’ll never marry. He asked me if I wanted to climb all the way down so I could at least wash my hands with the water. There was no way in hell I was walking down there so I guess I will never marry and will die smelling of cats and attics.
After the short painful realization that I will die alone, we began to make our way back up and surprisingly, this was much easier than climbing down. When we passed by the little vendor stands again, my cousin, Gabriela, was kind enough to buy me the teapot and cup I wanted. I told her I had money but she was like “No Laurita, let me buy you a gift.” Isn’t she the sweetest?
Our next stop was lunch. To be quite honest, I was more thirsty than hungry but JESUS SANTISIMO! The Italian restaurant my tía Bertha selected was out of this world. Guys, I seriously thought I had experienced fine dining at Georgetown and Europe but not even 1789 beats this place. Dipao is classy and knows how Mexicans like their Italian food: with lots of chile. Dipao’s interior design is kind of modern but it has a bunch of plants inside so it has a gardenesque kind of vibe. Even the bathrooms are nice! So nice! Wow!
To eat, I ordered a pizza with marinara sauce, cheese, and mushrooms (you know I love mushrooms) and to top it off, I had a tequila shot with my tío Alonso. Everything about this place was absolutely perfect: the design, the staff, my pizza drenched in chile de árbol. I had a lovely time there with my family so if you ever find yourself in Valle de Bravo, do yourself a favor and go to Dipao.
Our last stop was the center of Valle de Bravo. I swear I could hear angels singing as we drove around looking for parking. I don’t think I can do this place justice but imagine: a colonial town with little white buildings with brown trim, a colossal church by the plaza in front of a majestic mountain, a mariachi band playing from a gazebo, and people out and about rushing in and out of the taquerias and panaderias. And then, hugging all of this, is a crystalline lake.
Once we found a parking spot, we began to walk around. Upon seeing the church (kinda hard to miss), I asked if we could step inside to see and take pictures. My aunt said yes so off we went and, wow! I was speechless. Why is it that churches in Mexico are so darn beautiful?!
After this, I began to shop around and Jesus, am I good at spending them pesos! I bought some corn husk flowers, a fancy tortillero (the thing you put your tortillas in to keep them warm), a Mexican embroidered pillow, three Mexican peasant shirts, and a jewelry box for mother dearest. I regret nothing.
After my frantic shopping spree, we slowed down to walk around the lake. While walking I noticed the sun was beginning to sink into the horizon, giving the entire place a golden glow.
…
Guys, I think I am in love and not just because Valle de Bravo is full of insanely attractive Mexican men with sharp jawlines and dark hair. No, this place is charming beyond words. It’s serene yet chaotic, simple in its beauty yet full of intricacies.
To be quite honest, I think Valle de Bravo might be my favorite place in the world (sorry Paris, you’ve been knocked down) and I am certain that not even Gabriel Garcia Marquez could make up such a magical little town. This place surpasses imagination. It’s music, it’s life, it’s color, it’s spirit, it’s Mexico.
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Another little chapel we found. “Mexican Baroque style,” according to the sign posted near the entrance.
Inside you can find a fountain that has “magical” water. Oooooh!
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Present day basilica. Not my style but it is pretty.
Also, the last one is Juan Diego's ayate with the image of the Virgin.
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Stairs to the first temple. This is when I started to get nostalgic.
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I have not one but two crosses in my room. I feel much too holy.
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I’m not religious but la Virgen de Guadalupe will always have a special place in my heart
I made it. I finally visited the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe. I remember I desperately wanted to go when I was a youngster but I couldn’t go anywhere because I was an illegal immigrant. How things have changed! And today, I finally got to visit my Virgencita de Guadalupe.
This morning, during breakfast, my tía Martha told me to get ready to go to the Basilica and I was like “Wait, what?!” To be frank, I was planning on doing homework today but visiting the Basilica was infinitely more exciting- but worry not, I just finished up my Latin American econ development assignment so I’m not too behind.
Anyway, once Oscar arrived at my tía’s house, he drove us all the way to the Basilica. Guys, I kid you not, we left my tía’s house at 12:30 pm and did not get there until 3:00 pm! I have seen LA traffic, San Francisco traffic, Paris traffic but Mexico City wins the traffic competition. Traffic here is a horrid thing. I fell asleep twice during our ride but it was worth it. Once we crossed La Marquesa and entered Mexico City, I didn’t mind the traffic too much because I was busy ohhh and ahhing at the marvel that is Mexico City. We passed by the Chapultepec Castle (yes, Mexico has a castle thanks to Napoleon III, also known as the worst Napoleon), a million Mexican flags gracefully flirting with the wind, and La Reforma (fun fact: designed and built by orders of Maximilian I of Mexico).
As we got closer to the Basilica, I began to notice pilgrim groups walking toward the Basilica carrying huge statutes of the Virgin of Guadalupe while singing and dancing. Their sacrifice is truly inspiring but I must admit it kind of scared me- the same way Mexican Easter progressions scare me (some people wear REAL thorn crowns).
Before I tell you about what I saw, allow me to tell you about the whole Virgin of Guadalupe deal and why she’s so huge in Mexico. I’m not a religious person so I don’t believe the story but it’s a sweet one:
Legend says that an indigenous guy named Juan Diego (who is now a saint) saw the Virgin of Guadalupe at the top of the Hill of Tepeyac on December 9, 1531 (about 10 years after Hernán Cortés stepped foot in New Spain aka Mexico) and asked him to talk to the bishop because she wanted a temple to be built for her.
When Juan Diego told the bishop about the Virgin, the bishop way like “Yo Juanito, I think you’re on crack man” and sent him back to the place where he saw the Virgin to make sure he wasn’t imagining things. So off goes Juan Diego and the Virgin makes a second apparition and asks him to see the bishop again. Juan Diego tells the bishop that he saw the Virgin a second time and the bishop was like “Aight man but you gotta gimme some proof yo.” Then, the Virgin made a third apparition and asked Juan Diego to go see her the next day.
El día siguiente, Juan Diego’s uncle got sick so our homie Juan Diego couldn’t meet with the Virgin but eventually, he went back to Tepeyac on the 12th of December (which is now the official day of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Mexico- a huge holiday) and the Virgin, appearing a fourth time, asked him why he didn’t come the other day and he told her that his uncle got sick. The Virgin then told him not to worry because his uncle was all good now (she healed him) and asked him to climb up to the top of the hill to pick some flowers.
Juan Diego did this his and found a bunch of roses, which were out of season at the time and started picking some. As he was putting them in his ayate (a kind of mantel thing he was wearing), the Virgin asked him to go show the bishop and off goes Juan Diego.
When Juan Diego arrives, he tells the bishop he has the proof he had asked for. In that moment, he let go of his ayate and when the flowers fell to the floor, there appeared an image of the Virgin of Guadalupe imprinted on his ayate. With that, the first construction of a temple for the Mestizo Virgin (this virgin is brown so she’s considered mestiza- see why mestizaje is so important in Mexico?) was initiated in the little barrio that today is known as “La Villa” or “La Villita.”
However, this temple was much too small to fit all of her worshipers so they built a larger one. Problem was this one began to sink to the ground so they had to build a bigger, sturdier one next to it.
…
As a Mexican, I hold this story dear in my heart because I loved hearing it as a child and it really is central in Mexican history/ culture. However, now that I am older and less religious, I find it funny that a brown Virgin appeared to an indigenous man just when the Spanish were trying to convert all indigenous people to Catholicism in New Spain. Convenient, huh?
I don’t know, maybe the story is real but I have a hard time believing it. Regardless, I respect the Virgin of Guadalupe as a Mexican symbol because I grew up revering her and at the end of the day, she’s “La Reina de Mexico” (the queen of Mexico) and “La madre de todos los mexicanos” (the mother of all Mexicans).
…
So, after Oscar parked, we all walked over to the top of Tepeyac to see the first temple. Then we climbed down to see the second one (my favorite). The architecture is very Spanish so it has an Old- World kind of vibe. Then we went to the present-day Basilica which has this modern kind of design (not a huge fan, tbh).
While we were climbing up to see the first temple, I got a bit nostalgic because it reminded me of the time I visited the Basilica of the Sacred Heart in Paris. I remember climbing up the stairs and wondering why God hated me, I remember the hakuna- matata guy, and then getting lost in a street full of prostitutes. Fun times.
Anyway, after seeing everything, I got my little brother, Alejandro, a rosary and bought myself a ceramic figurine as a souvenir. By the time we were done, it was about 6:30 pm and my aunt asked Oscar to take us to a restaurant and we ended up going to an Italian place (Italian= my 2nd favorite so I was a happy girl). I just wanted a salad but my tía begged me to get something else so I ended up getting some farfalle with mushrooms. The salad was excellent but the waitress and forgot the mushrooms (mushrooms are one of my favorite foods so the disappointment was real but I didn’t want to say anything). Halfway through, I began to feel full so I didn’t finish the pasta. Regardless, my tía insisted I get dessert with her and Oscar so we ended up getting a cafecito with a cornetto. Although I was stuffed, I must say that that cornetto is one of the most amazing things I have ever had. Sadly, I couldn’t finish it but you can bet I’m going to look for a recipe.
During our drive back, my tía asked me about my life at Georgetown and my time in Paris and I really enjoyed talking to her about it because she’s a well-traveled lady so we both just ended up reminiscing all the fun times we had in Paris.
To conclude, today was absolutely amazing. I loved every second and although pictures cannot do Mexico justice, I hope they give you an idea of how charming this county is.
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