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Valentine’s Day, 2019, Furman University

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Valentine’s on Spaceship Earth

Valentine’s Day is a day for love. Over the years, that message has been convoluted to exclude non-romantic love and to celebrate mass consumerism. Don’t get me wrong, I’m all for celebrating love, but when you're expected and pressured into gift-giving and grand gestures to prove your love, I feel like we’re missing the point. In my mind, the true meaning of Valentine’s Day is connection and celebrating connection. A couple of years ago, I worked at Furman University’s Shi Center for Sustainability as a student fellow. For Valentine’s Day, my boss gave all of the student fellows a button that read, “Ask me what I’m doing for my valentine, Earth.” That Valentine’s Day, I celebrated my connection to the wonderful world around me. I reflected on all of the places I have had the fortune to see, all of the people I have had the opportunity to meet, and all of the knowledge I have gained along the way. I celebrated the Earth’s ability to provide for our needs. Sometimes, you have to stop and reflect on the miracle that is Earth. With each breath, knowing that that oxygen, that atmosphere, that gravity allows for the crazy thing we call life to happen. Our little Spaceship Earth is hurtling us through the universe, and we are just here along for the ride. For that, we have to be thankful and celebrate.

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Hacienda La Chimba and Ciudad Colon, Costa Rica

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Water

I have never been in Costa Rica in the dry season before. What you should know about the dry season is that the first two months of the year are also considered the windy season. And let me tell you, it’s no joke. The wind howls through the city, overcoming bird songs, trees, and even roofs. The latter unfortunately happened to my Spanish teacher (yes, this is finally the year I will learn Spanish) as a gust of wind ripped off her roof, allowing the critters of the jungle to access the power lines, leaving her without both power and a roof. Fortunately, her roof and power lines have since been repaired. The problem with the dry season is when the wind stops, because when the wind stops, the heat settles in. Fun fact, most homes in Costa Rica do not have air conditioners. Inside, I have been relying on my electric fan. Outside, the only relief offered is the shade, but even with the shade the heat is unrelenting. I tell you this to set the scene for my next story.

Last week, I went on a hike at Hacienda La Chimba outside of Santa Ana. This was a beautiful 5 kilometer (still getting used to the metric system) walk that wound through fields of coffee. Interspersed on this trail were different art installations that included a multiple meter tall Buddha (told you, I’m still getting used to it), letters that spelt out “Costa R ca” so you can fill the gap (evidently, while there is no i in team, there is an i in Costa Rica), and, finally, “La Mano del Mantro.” This final art piece is a huge wicker hand that emerges from the mountain itself. Standing on the hand, you feel as though you are being held by Mother Nature or God with the world at your fingertips (pun intended). It’s a powerful feeling. But there are some other things you should know about this hike. It is d i f f i c u l t. Unfortunately, I was a little on the underprepared side, and while I did think to bring with me sunscreen, bug spray, and my Tropical Plants of Costa Rica book, I only brought one water bottle. Just 100 meters to the top, I began to see stars with only three sips of my water left. Fortunately, due to a good rest, some shade, and an electrolyte tab, I recovered and completed the hike feeling great. (Don’t worry, I did treat myself to a lemonade, a full Costa Rican breakfast complete with scrambled eggs and gallo pinto, and a delicious ice cream at the bottom.) Overall, it was definitely worth it, but I have now bought myself a second water bottle for the next time.

The next day, I walked to a waterfall not far from Ciudad Colon. After a lot of rock scrambling, I was able to explore a good section of the river. The water was beautiful. I couldn’t help but sing to myself “Just Around the Riverbend” from Disney’s Pocahontas. Pocahontas sings, “what I love most about rivers is, you can’t step in the same river twice. The water’s always changing, always flowing.” Water is one of those things I have taken for granted. A dry season and dehydration certainly put things into perspective. As another song goes, “don’t it always seem to go, that you don’t know what you’ve got ’til it’s gone.” My professor described water as tenacious. He described it as adaptable. He also described it as having one vision (to return to the ocean). I will add that water nurtures. Water is resilient. He says we should be more like water. I can’t help but agree.

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Sunsets of Costa Rica

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Sunrise, Sunset

My first year here in Costa Rica way back in 2017, I and the other staff would watch the sunset every night religiously. I don’t know what it is about Monteverde, maybe it’s magic, but their sunsets are like no other. I was reflecting on sunsets and their significance in my life when we were asked about the role of the Earth's natural cycles in my class. If you’ve been reading these posts or you know me pretty well, you probably know that the first time I ever came to Costa Rica in 2017 was to choreograph with a community musical theater nonprofit whose mission was to bring musicals to the youth of Monteverde. The musical that year was Fiddler on the Roof, or El Violinista en el Tejado. If you know this musical, or even if you don’t, you might recognize the song Sunrise, Sunset. When we performed this musical in Monteverde, we used a Spanish translation of the show. However, for this particular song, the translation lost some of the magic of the original English song (something to do with the number of syllables, I think). Regardless, the song is truly beautiful.

For me, the meaning of the song is about having a nostalgia for the past, but its also about having a hope for the future and the opportunity for new beginnings. In the musical, this song paralleled the main character's own struggles as he held on to his traditions while the world around him continued to change. During my reflection, I started thinking about what has changed since my first time arriving in Costa Rica almost 5 years ago.

In the past 5 years, there have been many sunsets in my life. Of course, while a sunset may signal an end, they are still beautiful. I have choreographed my last musical, I have graduated from undergrad, and I have said goodbye to my home. Of course, despite these many sunsets, sunrises only follow. I have begun a master’s program at American University and the University for Peace, I have adopted a cat, and I have moved to Costa Rica. The sunrises are just as beautiful, but are made more so by the darkness that come before. This is just part of the natural cycle.

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University for Peace (Universidad para la Paz), Costa Rica

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The University for Peace

The twisting bus ride took me through the heart of Ciudad Colon, over a pretty scary bridge high above a creek and the forest floor, through coffee plantations, then, finally, to what seems like, the top of the mountains. The University for Peace (UPeace) has a beautiful and sprawling campus. The buildings were designed to maximize the scenic views and integrate the outdoors in. As I walked into my first class room, my jaw all but hit the floor. From the panoramic windows you can see all of Costa Rica's Central Valley against the backdrop of Costa Rica's volcanic mountain ranges. Yes, you can see four(!) of them from campus.

Outside, the beautifully landscaped garden is home to butterflies, hummingbirds, and other tropical birds (or at least that's what I've seen so far). The most exciting bird I have seen so far is known as the montezuma oropendola, a bird the lives in hanging nests high in the canopy. It's black body, white-spotted eyes, orange beak, and yellow-tail are not the most exciting part of this bird. Nor is it the shrill squawk that it calls. The most exciting thing about this bird is that, high in the canopy, after it emits its call, the bird seems to fall straight off the branch it perches on by tipping over, and right when you think the bird has plummeted down, the bird rights itself back on the branch. The phenomenon reminds me of a drinking bird desk tchotchke.

On the lawn, there are also over 60 flags to signify the different nationalities of the students and professors on campus. It is incredible to be in a location that has so many people from so many different backgrounds all over the world. I think the only continent not represented in the student body is Antarctica.

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FDOC

So the funny thing is, I never made it to class today. Well, in a sense, I kinda did. I’ll just tell the story...

If you are from Costa Rica or even if you have read my blogs, then you are no stranger to the concept of “Tico time,” the affectionate term used to describe the habit of being late in Costa Rica. When I got to my bus stop to get to the UPeace campus for my first day of class (or, FDOC), I thought this Costa Rican phenomenon could explain why my bus did not show up on time. Or 5 minutes late. Or 10 minutes late. Or 15, 20, 25 minutes late. After 30 minutes with the bus a no show, I took it as a sign that either: A) I was not standing at the correct bus stop, B) I had missed the bus, C) I did not have the right bus schedule, or D) the entire bus had been abducted by aliens for “science.” Thanks to COVID (this will be the only time I will ever utter those words), my class is hybrid, meaning I was able to join class from the comfort of my bedroom, which Beatle seemed to really enjoy. While Zooming with the rest of my class, I learned that I had received the wrong bus schedule, causing me to arrive 15 minutes late to my bus stop (so a combination of B and C and, unfortunately, not D).

While lamenting to one of my friends about my misfortune, I said, “this never happens to me.” It took me all of 5 minutes to realize, “uh, yeah, it literally always happens to you.” After missing the bus to Monteverde because I took the taxi to the wrong bus stop and missing my plane to leave Costa Rica due to a religious pilgrimage that happens literally once a year, you could say I have bad luck with transit. No worries though, there’s always tomorrow.

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Beatle Spam

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Beatlemania

I adopted Beatle, the cat, in the summer of 2019, approximately 2 weeks before I left for Costa Rica for 3 weeks to conduct research for my undergraduate thesis. It was her eyes that really drew me in, oh, and the fact that she let me pick her up and she fell asleep on my shoulder. Looking back, that was definitely the best decision I ever made. If I were to describe her in approximately 5 words, I would use: spirited, attention-seeking, loving, playful, and loud (very loud). Her favorite toys are 3-inch long springs that she likes to hit around and carry in her mouth. She enjoys attention, rolling on the ground, interrupting Zoom calls, and laying in the sun. All in all, she is practically perfect in every way.

I did make a pros/cons list for deciding if I should bring Beatle with me to Costa Rica, then I realized that that was silly and it was a no brainer to bring her with me. Sure, there was a lot of paperwork that had to be filled out and many stressful nights thinking about if this was the best decision for her, but now that I am here in Costa Rica, I can tell you it was all worth it.

Today, after a morning spent on my patio (leashed), enjoying the sun, bugs, and birds, Beatle is now sleeping by the window on my desk. She has adapted a lot quicker than I expected to her new environment (thankfully), but now I have to brainstorm some solutions for keeping her safe inside while also allowing fresh air in. This might require a trip to the hardware store (or ferretaría). Stay tuned for more adventures with me and Beatle.

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Costa Rica Photo Dump

From top: fieldwork in San Luis ‘19, dancers and audience members at the Colaboración Danza Comunitaria ‘18, advertisement for the Colaboración Danza Comunitaria ‘18, research group posing ‘19

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Back by popular demand

Wow. Didn’t think I was going to be back here. Let me catch up all of my avid readers (hi mom and dad) on what has happened in the past year(s). I think I left off on my travels from San Jose to Monteverde where I missed a bus, way back in 2018 (it really feels like a lifetime ago). Let’s see if I can recap in one sentence: created a dance festival, had an amazing host family, met some really cool friends and reconnected with some old ones, ate ice cream, found some kittens, traveled to Cartago, and missed a plane. I think that about sums up my 2018 Costa Rican experience. Maybe I’ll go into more detail about some of those stories in the future, but to be honest, I don’t know how long I will actually be keeping this blog up. In 2019 I only spent three weeks in Costa Rica working on my senior thesis for Furman University. Essentially, I was researching a land management program that aims to improve both the environment and the personal welfare of those enrolled in the program (PSA, for those who are interested). It was definitely an eye-opening experience that led me, in part, to where I am now. Also, yes, those three weeks were filled with ice cream.

2020 was, well, it started off really well. Back in February I learned that I was accepted into my dream graduate program, American University’s Natural Resources and Sustainable Development dual-Master’s program. If you have only been reading my blogs and have little sense of who I am in the real world, this might (might) seem a shock. I won’t go into the details of why I chose this program, but I will take a moment to explain how amazing it is. American University (AU) has a unique partnership with the UN-mandated University for Peace (UPeace), essentially allowing students in this program to travel to Costa Rica for a year to take classes in the beautiful Ciudad Colón - and that’s where I am right now.

I arrived only two days ago on a very long, and very stressful day of traveling. Going to Costa Rica in the middle of a pandemic may seem like a strange choice, but I felt it was the best option for me, knowing that I could safely live alone in my charming guest house, perfect for me and my cat (yes, I went through all the hoops necessary to bring my cat, Beatle, with me to Costa Rica, a small part of the reason why traveling was so stressful, the main part being COVID and my lack of Spanish), and that UPeace is using every precaution to make classes as safe as possible. I am very excited to be exploring more of Costa Rica, to commit myself to learning Spanish this year (this will be the year), and being able to experience this all with my cat. I am not sure how often I will be posting, but I’m sure there will be a few updates, maybe just don’t hold your breath.

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San Jose, Day 21

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The Neverending Journey

Time of departure: 5:30 AM, Time of arrival: 7:30 PM

After a total of maybe three hours of sleep (I had to finish my research paper a whole day early, remember?), I left my Furman Costa Rican family to catch the bus to Monteverde. The bus from San Jose to Monteverde only leaves two times a day: 7 AM and 2:30 PM. This is a one-way, 4.5 hour drive. What I expected to be an easy journey became anything but, and, in total, my whole journey took me over 12 hours. Let’s start from the beginning-

I bought my bus ticket a whole day earlier and my professor set up a cab that would come to our hotel promptly at 6:30 AM. I loaded my stuff into the back of the taxi and my professor quickly gave Spanish instructions to the driver (my Spanish skills are nonexistent so I was very appreciative of this). After a quick ride, I was dropped off at a rather nice bus stop. In hindsight, I should have known something was up. The bus stop I remember from last year was just a tin lean-to on the side of the highway. But a lot of stuff can change in one year, right? So I waited. And I waited. And I waited. And the bus did not come. But maybe that was because buses run on Tico time like everything else in the country, right? So I waited some more.

After an hour and some odd minutes passed, I messaged my professor and I was thankful for two things: 1) I had added my professor on WhatsApp, and 2) I had enough cellular data carried over from last year to message her. Especially considering I was stuck in a foreign place where I do not speak the native language with not enough money to pay for cab fare I was happy to have my professor talk to a taxi driver for me and work out a deal so I could get more money from an ATM and pay a flat rate for the hour-long drive to the main San Jose bus station.

During this taxi ride was the time I wished I knew any Spanish. He was so kind and tried his best to communicate with me. All I wanted to do was to reciprocate his kindness. With all of the time I have spent in Costa Rica over the past year, you would think I would have at least been to the capital city, but this was the first time I have really seen the city, and by taxi to boot. I finally made it to the San Jose station. It was almost 10 AM by this point and I all I could do was wait. So I waited. And I waited. And waited some more.

After what seemed like an eternity, the time came to board the bus. I was very thankful for this because: 1) I actually made it onto the bus, and 2) I finally felt comfortable enough to sleep (I was a little wary of sleeping in a bus terminal, especially considering the constant comings and goings were ripe opportunities for an individual to capitalize on the unobservant tourist) and sleep I did.

When I made it to Monteverde, it was 7:30 PM and I took my third taxi of the day to my final destination: my host family’s home. My host family was not actually home, so I was let in by my host aunt, shown my bed, bathroom, and dinner. And I finally exhaled.

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Alajuela, Day 20

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FU for the last(ish) time

For all of the confused readers thinking I am saying something unsavory to them, my school’s name is Furman University

It's amazing the difference a few weeks can have on someone's outlook on experiences. With many of us gathered around the breakfast table, one of the waiters at our hotel pointed out a howler monkey to the few people crazy enough to be up so early in the morning. While most of the hotel guests oohed and aahed over the troop of monkeys, our seasoned group gave the monkeys an appreciative glance and then continued with our meals. I said goodbye to the beach with the bittersweet knowledge that this was our last (real) destination of my semester experience. Our group stopped for lunch at an amazing seafood restaurant at a surf town called Jacó on our way to San Jose. I got one of the most amazing lemonades (that couldn’t last long enough) and I became very good friends with the restaurant’s resident cat. Half of the table got wonderful views of the surf beach, complete with both experienced and novice surfers, while the other half got great views of the-- not one, not two, but seven (!) scarlet macaws that flew over the restaurant. Of course, these views were not exclusively reserved for one side of the table (much like the fried calamari that was ordered for our entire group). We explored the town for a bit after lunch. I even got treated to some wonderful gelato - one scoop of chocolate and one scoop of strawberry balsamic. We finally made it to our last stop on the trip, Alajuela. Here, we had to say goodbye to our wonderful driver, Javier. Some tears were shed (but only few would admit it, including Javier). The evening was spent taking our final exam, finishing up the final details on our research projects, and enjoying the hotel's brownies (one of many trip highlights).

This was also the point in the trip where I realized I had made a very big mistake. See, I had never really gotten an official itinerary, and since I wasn’t flying back with the group, I was under the impression that my semester-long class wouldn’t be done until Wednesday. A few deep breaths later, I was able to find a place to stay, I bought a bus ticket, and I finished my research paper a whole day before when I thought it was due (okay, this may have taken more than a few deep breaths). Either way, my summer was now starting (and a whole day early, too)! Reflecting back on this experience, all of us have found it hard to pinpoint what our favorite part of the trip was. It was even hard trying to decide what our least favorite part was because it was just such a good experience all around (but bug bites, stray scorpions, and sunburn were definitely not fun). You know that feeling where something as recent as three weeks feels like a lifetime ago? That is what this experience has felt like -- a whole lifetime of destinations, lessons, and friends. And while this trip has been amazing, it's time to end this chapter and start a new one (and to get a shower).