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_archive #18

Fashion designer Zazo&Brull Photography Andreia Martins Styling Laura Montané Stylist assis Katherine Scholz Make-up & Hair Veronica Garcia Model Sydney at UNO models

• Interview to Zazo&Brull

Where did you study and what did you like most about the school and the city you studied? We both studied at the LLotja school in Barcelona. We came from the province of Gerona and studying in Barcelona meant opening up our minds to a new and more advanced culture.  The best thing about attending the school was that it allowed us to meet.

What did you like least about the school and the city? With respect to the school, it doesn't really train you for the real world in which you have to move. It doesn’t teach you much about the business aspects and you have to learn based on risk and experience. With respect to Barcelona, at the present time the image of the city doesn’t fit in with what it offers you or what you can find there.

When did you decide to become a fashion designer and why? Xavi: merely by chance. I wanted to study drama and at one of the courses I studied before entering the “Institut del Teatre”, I received classes about costume design.  I became really interested in it and decided I wanted to learn more…. and that’s what I’ve been doing ever since… Clara: my grandfather was a fashion designer and had a workshop where he made clothes for his lady customers. I had always found this fascinating and I remember spending hours playing with fabrics and thread. When I had to decide on a career after leaving high school, I read an article in the newsletter of the “FD Moda” school and realised that this was what I wanted to do. Oddly enough, we now give classes in that same school in Barcelona.

What do you do to get inspired and how do you usually start a collection? We like talking to each other and drawing inspiration from our own experience, no matter where it originates. Then we develop our ideas and convert them into stories or thoughts. Sometimes our inspiration comes from a book, such as in the case of the “X-S09” collection or “Distopía”, from the books “The last man” and “Lord of the Flies”, respectively. Collections that were originally based on films; for instance, our collection entitled “la novia mutante del rey Pez” (The mutant bridge of the Fish King) which was a combination of “Freaks” and “Frankenstein” In collections such as “Frágil”, “Je Regrette” and “Distopía” we consider the human condition, based on three different aspects. In short, you could say that we use our collections as a therapy for expressing our feelings, concerns or desires.

What are your plans for the future, what would you like to be doing in five years? Right now, our plans include Brazil. We were given the opportunity to present our latest collections there and we think it is a good time to enter new markets. In five years’ time, we would like our company to be well positioned in the Brazilian market and have the chance to open a single-label store.

If you wouldn’t be a designer, what would you be? Xavi: an actor or singer Clara: a dog trainer.

What is the most ugly piece of clothes you have in your personal wardrope? Xavi: a pair of trousers that a Belgian designer gave me as a special gift. They are custom-made and have some unsightly stains that are very ugly and several cigarette burns. Clara:  a dress from the 1960s that belonged to my mother. It’s made of black velvet and is decorated with spots painted by hand.  It’s very ugly but also quite authentic.

What the most beautiful one? Xavi: an overcoat by Zazo&Brull. We never make men’s clothes, but on this occasion, we designed an overcoat especially for me and I think it is an extremely unique garment. Clara: I wouldn‘t know which one to choose. I have several interesting items made by the firm that are particularly attractive and special, and each of them has its own story to tell.

And to finish; name a song you love but you’re ashamed of admitting to love. Xavi:   Belanova “todo mi amor” Clara:  Camilo Sesto “vivir así es morir de amor”

• Entrevista a Zazo&Brull

¿Dónde estudiaron y qué es lo que más les gustó de la escuela y la ciudad? Estudiamos los dos en la escuela LLotja de Barcelona. Los dos veníamos de la provincia de Gerona  y estudiar en Barcelona significaba abrir nuestras mentes a un ambiente cultural nuevo y avanzado. Lo mejor que nos brindó la escuela fue la oportunidad de conocernos.

¿Qué es lo que menos les gusta de la escuela y la ciudad? De la escuela, el hecho de que no te prepara para el mundo real donde luego tienes que moverte. La parte empresarial no se ve reflejada en ningún sitio y eres tu el que debes aprender a base de riesgo y experiencia. De Barcelona, ahora mismo, que no coincide la imagen de la ciudad con lo que te ofrece o puedes encontrar en ella.

¿Cuándo decidieron convertirse en un diseñador de moda y por qué? Xavi: Fue una elección por casualidad. Quería dedicarme a la interpretación y en uno de los cursos que hice antes de entrar al “Institut del Teatre”, me impartieron unas clases sobre indumentaria. Me fascinó y decidí saber un poco más… y hasta hoy… Clara: Mi abuela era modista y tenía un taller donde cosía para sus clientas. Siempre me había alucinado y recuerdo pasarme horas jugando con telas e hilos. Cuando tuve que decidirme a escoger una carrera después del instituto vi un artículo en el periódico de la escuela “FD Moda” y supe que era eso lo que quería hacer. Casualmente ahora  impartimos tutorías en esta misma escuela en Barcelona.

¿Qué hacen para inspirarse y por lo general, ¿cómo inician una colección? Nos gusta mucho hablar entre nosotros e inspirarnos en nuestras propias vivencias vengan de donde vengan. Luego las evolucionamos y solemos convertirlas en historias o en reflexiones. En algunas ocasiones la inspiración ha partido de un libro como en el caso de la colección X-S09 o Distopía, de los libros “The last man” y “Lord of the Flies” respectivamente. Colecciones que partieron inicialmente de películas por ejemplo, nuestra colección “la novia mutante del rey Pez” que era una mezcla entre “Freaks” y “Frankenstein” Y en colecciones como “Frágil”, “Je Regrette” y “Distopía” reflexionábamos sobre la condición humana basándonos en tres aspectos diferentes. Como resumen, podemos decir que utilizamos nuestras colecciones como terapia para volcar sentimientos, preocupaciones o anhelos.

¿Cuáles son los planes para el futuro, ¿qué les gustaría estar haciendo dentro de cinco años? Nuestros planes ahora mismo miran hacia Brasil. Hemos tenido la oportunidad de presentar nuestras últimas colecciones allí y pensamos que es un buen momento para apostar por abrir nuevos mercados. Dentro de cinco años nos gustaría que nuestra firma estuviera bien posicionada en los mercados brasileños y  tener la posibilidad de abrir tienda mono marca.

Si no sería un diseñador, ¿qué te gustaría ser? Xavi: actor o cantante. Clara: adiestradora de perros.

¿Cuál es la pieza más fea que tienes en tu guardarropa personal? Xavi: unos pantalones que me regalaron como algo muy especial de un diseñador belga. Está customizado y tiene unas manchas muy desagradables y poco estéticas además de quemaduras de cigarrillo. Clara: un vestido de los años 60 que era de mi madre. Es de terciopelo negro y con motivos lunares pintados a mano. Es muy feo pero también muy auténtico.

¿Cuál la más bella? Xavi: Un abrigo de zazo&brull. No hacemos nunca ropa de hombre pero en esta ocasión diseñamos un abrigo especialmente para mí y creo que es una pieza muy especial. Clara: No sabría escoger. Tengo prendas únicas de la firma, muy especiales y bonitas. Cada una con su historia detrás.

Y para terminar, el nombre de una canción que te encanta, pero te da vergüenza de admitir. Xavi:   Belanova “todo mi amor”  Clara:  Camilo Sesto “vivir así es morir de amor”

Interview by Titus Elias

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...coming soon Zazo&Brull by Andreia Martins 

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_archive #17

Fashion designer Kristofer Kongshaug Photography Ricardo Gomes Styling Benjamin Brouillet Hair & Make up Magalie Roux Jewelry Designer ABRE Assistant styling Remi Felipe Model: Anna at Studio KLRP

• Interview to Kristofer Kongshaug

How did you start this collection, where did the inspiration come from? I started thinking about it a decade before I did my first show in 2008, but when I actually realized it, it was on impulse. I came to a point in life where I had to do something new. Usually my inspiration comes from my everyday life. It´s some kind of parallel universe where idealism meets dream. It’s a book with new chapters but the story stays the same. I get inspired by people, by the nature. I use music to put me in a state of mind, which fits the atmosphere I want to reach. Then I forget all that and just make clothes.

When did you decide to become a fashion designer and why? I grew up surrounded by it, but was never really thinking about it until I suddenly realized I enjoyed making clothes and I wanted to do something with it.

How did you start your own fashion label? How long did it take before it was functioning properly? Well does a label ever function properly? The first collection I ever did was 26 outfits that I made by my self in a couple of months, I didn’t really have a plan, but time felt right. I think nothing today really functions how you want things to be, how they should be, because the industry is destroyed be itself. It´s become corporate and the values are changed. Fashion has become commercialism and nothing will function until it fails.

What is your future plans, what would you like to be doing in five years from now? Good question, I ask my self that all the time and honestly I don’t know. I would like to continue my brand and make it grow. Maybe start another fashion house, who knows. I´m working on several interesting projects, which can take life in so many interesting directions. In business it’s important to have a 5 year plan, in life that’s just sad….

• Entrevista a Kristofer Kongshaug

¿Cómo comenzó esta colección, de dónde vino la inspiración? Empecé a pensar sobre ello una década antes de realizar mi primer desfile en 2008, pero cuando  realmente me di cuenta, tome el impulso. Llegué a un punto en la vida donde tuve que hacer algo nuevo. Por lo general, mi inspiración viene de mi vida cotidiana. Es una especie de universo paralelo donde el idealismo se encuentra con el sueño. Es un libro con capítulos nuevos, pero la historia sigue siendo la misma. Me inspira la gente, la naturaleza. Yo uso la música para adquirir un estado de ánimo que se ajusta a la atmósfera que quiero llegar. Entonces me olvido de todo y sólo en hacer ropa.

¿Cuándo decidió convertirse en un diseñador de moda y por qué? Crecí rodeado de ella, pero nunca pensé realmente en ello hasta que de repente me di cuenta de que disfrutaba la confección de ropa y quería hacer algo con eso.

¿Cómo inicia su propia marca de moda? ¿Cuánto tiempo llevó antes de que estaba funcionando correctamente? Bueno, cuando una marca tiene que funcionar correctamente? La primera colección que hice fue de 26  trajes que he hecho por mi mismo en un par de meses, yo realmente no tenía un plan, pero se sentía bien. Creo que hoy nada funciona realmente como quieres que las cosas sean, cómo debe ser, porque la industria está destruida por sí misma. Se ha convertido en las empresas y los valores cambian. Moda se ha convertido en la comercialización y nada va a funcionar hasta que cambie.

¿Cuáles son sus planes futuros, ¿qué le gustaría estar haciendo dentro de cinco años a partir de ahora? Buena pregunta, me pregunto a mi mismo el que todo el tiempo y honestamente no lo sé. Me gustaría continuar con mi marca y hacerla crecer. Tal vez empezar en otra casa de moda, quién sabe. Estoy trabajando en varios  proyectos interesantes, que pueden llevar la vida en muchas direcciones interesantes. En los negocios es importante tener un plan de 5 años, en la vida eso es triste....

Interview by Titus Elias

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_archive #16

Fashion designer Toni Francesc Photography Andreia Martins Styling Laura Montané Hair & Make up Veronica Garcia Model Karolina at F Unique Management

_Interview to Toni Francesc

Where did you study and what did you like most about it? I studied fashion design and patternmaking at the Institut Català de la Moda in Barcelona. I liked the textile classes. They made me understand the importance of the fabrics in a design.

What did you not like about it? I’m a very positive person, I don’t remember the bad moments.

And what did you and did you not like about Barcelona?  It’s impossible to have bad memories about Barcelona. I like everything about the city. It’s not too big, it’s easy to walk through. I like its design, its architecture, the people, the sea, the climate it has, the big amount of restaurants and bars. It’s a perfect city to live, study, work or to visit.

When did you decide to become a fashion designer and why? Right after I finished high school I started studying fashion. I was always interested in fashion, art, architecture, interior design and I knew I wanted to study something in which I could express myself creatively. Maybe the reason why I ended up studying fashion design has to do with genetics; my mother is a dressmaker. I’m very passionate about my work. It can be very stressful but I like that about it.

What do you do to get inspired and how do you usually start a collection?  I’ve always liked to work with human topics related to certain feelings. I can also get inspired by themes related to the elements of nature. The inspiration I get from this often leads to the most important aspects of the designs; the colours, fabrics, shape or style.

What are your plans for the future, what would you like to be doing in five years? It’s hard to say what I will be doing in five years. I’d like to continue in fashion, which will probably not always be easy in these times we live in. Anyway I’d like to continue working for my clients and above all keep on enjoying what I’m doing.

If you wouldn’t be a designer, what would you be? Being a fashion design teacher could be a great option. I wouldn’t be a designer, but I could continue working with my passion for fashion and help preparing future designers.

What is the most ugly piece of clothes you have in your personal wardrope? I don’t have any clothes that I really don’t like, although with some clothes I can get sick of seeing them and wearing them.

What the most beautiful one? An old jersey that I am really fond of.

And to finish; name a song you love but you’re ashamed of admitting to love.  “Yo soy aquel” de Raphael

Interview by Titus Elias

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...coming soon Archive#16 Toni Francesc photographed by Andreia Martins

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_archive #15

Fashion designer Branko Popovic Photography Lonneke van der Palen Styling Branko Popovic Hair & Make up Carlos Saidel @ Colourfool agency Model Rob at 77models

_Interview to Branko Popovic

Where did you study and what did you like most about the school and the city the studied? I studied at ABKMaastricht, the Academy of Fine Arts in Maastricht in the south of Holland. After high school, academy seemed like heaven, because I met amazing people and I got to do what I loved the most.

What did you like least about it? There is always something to complain about. In general it was fine, but if I would choose an academy now, it would not be ABKMaastricht.

When did you decide to become a fashion designer and why? I actually wanted to study fine arts but I was not really sure. The first year at ABKM was more a general year where I got various courses and then I chose to which department I wanted to go. I found out that I liked fashion and the fashion department at the academy in Maastricht is really one of the best and most inspiring departments. In the first year I was doing really well and my teachers told me I would do well in all departments but that fashion would fit me best. When I look back at my childhood the love for fashion was already there. I loved to see my grandmother knit and help her. I remember that I liked to organize events and fashion shows and I had a ken doll, well that explains a lot. Still I have to admit that I am not sure if I want to be fashion designer forever. I long to make art and do more than fashion.

What do you do to get inspired and how do you usually start a collection? In each collection I search for a certain need why I want to design a collection. In the first place I see this as an expression of things that are going in my head or things I’ve experienced. I have to have a deeper meaning or reason why I am doing a collection. In the beginning I am more interested in the concept than in clothes as a product. I use fashion design as a form of expression, at the end I also have respect for fashion design and I look for a balance between concept and fashion design. Within this process I find lot of struggles and it’s not so easy to find the right balance. An example of my last collection: Originally I come from Ex-Yugoslavia (Croatia), and the last collection is about transformation of the shape of the star (red star was the symbol of the flag) as a metaphor for the split-up of Yugoslavia. This split-up and the war in Yugoslavia is the reason I am living in The Netherlands. This collection is also an expression for transformation of my life, leaving Yugoslavia for The Netherlands.

What are your plans for the future, what would you like to be doing in five years? In the future I would like to still have a fashion label and to have more selling points. But most of all I want to create art again and invest more time in that. I want to draw, make installations and performances and do more multi- and interdisciplinary work. I would like to be travelling more. I would love to still have my blog brankopopovic.blogspot.com because I love to share amazing work of other designers, talents and artists. I hope that FASHIONCLASH, a foundation I have co-founded, still exists in five year. I hope that we can realize the projects we dream about and that we can provide platform for many young designers from all over the world.

If you wouldn’t be a designer, what would you be? Artist or a teacher of art or fashion design.

What is the most ugly piece of clothes you have in your personal wardrobe? I can’t think of any. If I had one I think I got rid of it last time I was cleaning out my wardrobe.

What the most beautiful one? I have a very nice shirt from Gaspard Yurkievich. I did my internship there and this shirt reminds me of that time. I also have a very nice red jacket from designer Ingo Binder.

And to finish; name a song you love but you’re ashamed of admitting to love. I come from Ex-Yugoslavia and there are so many folk singers and songs that I like and have a memory attached to. Many of them are really bad but still great to hear at times when I am nostalgic or cleaning the house, but I would not post those songs on facebook.

More info: www.brankopopovic.com www.fashionclash.nl www.brankopopovic.blogspot.com

Interview by Titus Elias

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…backstage from shooting Branko Popovic photographed by Lonneke Van der Palen

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…some pictures from shooting Veronica B. Vallenes photographed by Simon Birk

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_archive #13

fashion designer ADO LES SCENS by Hyun Yeu photography Sophie Van der Perre  concept & styling Martijn Nekoui  makeup & hair Valerie Dobbe  models Anton van der Sluis at Tony Jones Model Management & Arthur van Andel at Skin Models

_Interview with Hyun Yeu

Where did you study and what did you like most about it? I chose to come to Amsterdam from Korea, because I really wanted to study at Gerrit Rietveld Academy. It’s a great school that opened my eyes to conceptual approach to art and design. I love Amsterdam, with it’s pretty city centre. It’s a fun city with a lot of cultural activities and most of all it’s so centrally located, which makes it easy to go to other European cities for weekend trips.

What did you like least? I hated the rainy summer afternoons without sunlight.

When did you decide to become a fashion designer and why? I was working in a bank in Korea. One day I got really tired of it, I wanted to do something creative. I looked around to see where my passion truly lay. The answer was clear, it was fashion.

What are your plans for the future, what would you like to be doing in five years? I would like to make my brand ADO LES SCENTS to be able to stands on it’s own and then I will be showing in New York... or Paris.

If you wouldn’t be a designer, what would you be? A fashion photographer.

What is the most ugly piece of clothes and what the most beautiful one you have in your personal wardrope? The most beatitul thing is ADO LES SCENTS Autumn winter 2011 collection coat. It is 100% cashmere, with every seam of the jacket hand locked and with full silk lining. The most ugly one is a taylor made suit I bought in Bangkok. I thought it was cheap and the result was cheap.

And to finish; name a song you love but you’re  ashamed of admitting to love. The sound track of ‘GLEE’. Don’t tell please, it’s a secret!

Interview by Titus Elias

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...coming soon Hyun Yeu by Sophie Van der Perre

_archive #13

fasion designer Hyun Yeu photography Sophie Van der Perre concept & styling Martijn Nekoui makeup & hair Valerie Dobbe models Anton van der Sluis at Tony Jones Model Management & Arthur van Andel at Skin Models

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archive #12 Montse Liarte

Photography Luciano Insua Stylist Lía Lázaro Photo assis. Andreia Martins Model  Laia @ Sight Management

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...coming soon Montse Liarte by Luciano Insua

_archive #12

fasion designer Montse Liarte photography Luciano Insua stylist Lía Lázaro photography Assis. Andreia Martins model Laia at Sight Management

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more about _archive #11 Txell Miras, Ann Muursep @ Miah Models styled by Alegna Merlino, photographed by Sebastian Troncoso.

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_archive #11 Txell Miras by Sebastian Troncoso for ego34.com

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Ann Muursep and her look strong photographed by Sebastian Troncoso

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making of _archive #11 TXELL MIRAS photographed by SEBASTIAN TRONCOSO, coming soon in ego34.com

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ego34 in stop stealing my look with Gori de Palma, oct 2010.