craft-my-world

[craft-my-world]

Never had a tiktok and it's not even banned here but I'm kind of tempted to get the red note app to min-max my Chinese ingredient pantry.

[craft-my-world]

[craft-my-world]

From Super Easy Amigurumi by Mitsuki Hoshi

[craft-my-world]

Weebo crochet and pattern!

So I loved Magi-Nation when I was a kid. Lived and breathed it. Spent soooooo many hours and sooooo much money on the card game, got as many friends as I possibly could roped into it, the works. It was just a delight to me.

The game's been defunct for decades now but it still holds a place in my heart, so I decided I'd make a little Weebo! This is my... third, I think? amigurumi that I did freehand, without using a pattern that someone else made. But unlike the last couple, I took notes when I made this one, so there's a pattern for anyone who wants to make their own below the cut!

WHAT YOU NEED

Materials:

Yarn: Orange, white, dark brown, buff

For the one in the photos, I used size 3/DK yarn made of cotton.

Crochet hook or hooks

For the one in the photos, I used a size C/2.75 mm hook.

You can make the plush bigger or smaller by changing the hook size and the yarn size as you see fit.

Safety eyes (2)

Stuffing

Cardboard (for the inner feet)

Embellishments for the toenails: either needle felting supplies or yarn embroidery supplies

This can be as simple as a yarn needle and some gray or beige yarn

I needle-felted it, so that would be a felting needle, a foam work pad, and some gray or beige felting fiber

General crochet accessories (pins, yarn scissors, yarn needle, stitch markers, etc.)

Knowledge:

Single crochet (sc), magic ring (MR), increase (inc), decrease (dec), chain (ch), fasten off

I make some references to slip stitches and invisible finishes; those are all optional

Basic plushie sewing (I don't tell you when to attach yarn or when to knot it or hide it)

I'm not using a specific named stitch when sewing the pieces together. If you like using specific named stitches, you'll probably end up using whip stitches and/or ladder stitches, but if you're already familiar with those terms, you're experienced enough to figure this all out anyway.

Body (Orange cap)

First we're going to make the big orange mushroom cap. This is pretty simple. Use orange yarn.

MR 6 (6)

Inc 6 (12)

(sc, inc) x6 (18)

(sc 2, inc) x6 (24)

(sc 3, inc) x6 (30)

(sc 4, inc) x6 (36)

(sc 5, inc) x6 (42)

Sc around (42)

(sc 6, inc) x6 (48)

10-12.  sc around (48) (3 rds)

13. Back loops only this round: sc around (48)

14. (sc 6, dec) around (42)

15. (sc 5, dec) around (36)

16. (sc 4, dec) around (30)

17. (sc 1, dec) around (20). Note that this is a faster decrease than we've been doing. Fasten off. I found it easier to attach the white ring first before stuffing the orange cap, but you can stuff it when you find it to be convenient.

Images of the side and underside of the finished orange cap.

White Ring

For the white ring around the body, use white yarn. Make a magic ring with 6 sc (so MR 6), then just SC around for approximately 52 rounds, until the tube that you make is long enough to wrap all the way around the orange cap. Depending on how tight your stitches are and so on, this may be a little more or a little less than 52 rounds, but that's what it was for me. As you go, periodically measure the tube against the orange cap to see when it's going to fit around nicely. You're going to sew it to the cap roughly at where the back loop only round was, but this can be adjusted as you see fit.

Image of the white tube stretched out

Fasten off at the end with a long tail for sewing; you can finish with a slip stitch or an invisible finish but it won't really matter since you're sewing it to itself to make a loop.

When I made mine, I sewed it to the body right after making it. You might choose to also leave this step for last, so that you have more room to work on the underside. I don't think that will make a huge difference.

There's no need to stuff the ring unless you REALLY want to, but I wouldn't.

Images of the white ring stitched to the orange cap

Foot (make four)

Use dark brown yarn. The toenails can be embroidered on or needle-felted on; use beige or gray material. I suppose you could even cut them out of premade felt or premade fabric and glue or sew them on if that's what you really want; point is, they're not directly part of the crocheting process. In the photos, mine are needle-felted on. (If you have a felting needle, it's very easy; just stab your felting fiber into the right approximate shape, position it on the doll, and stab it repeatedly until it holds itself in place.)

Chain 5, turn. Sc 3, 3 together in next sc so you're moving around to the opposite side of the chain row, skip 1, sc 2, inc (10) (The skip 1 part is always a little weird for me because I didn't realize I was doing it until the third or fourth foot, but as long as you end up with 10 stitches in your row, you're good. The goal is to be stitching in the round but to make it kind of oblong instead of a perfect circle, hence why we're using a chain instead of a magic ring.)

Image of going around the chain to the opposite side

Image of row 1 completed

2. Inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (14)

3. Inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, sc, inc, sc 2, inc, sc, inc, sc (20)

4. Back loops only for this round: sc around (20)

5-7.  Sc around (20) (3 rounds).

NOTE: After the first or second of these, if you're using cardboard to stiffen the feet to make it stand up more easily, this is a good time to trace and cut out the cardboard (I used two layers; do what feels right for the materials you have on hand) and stick it inside the foot. Make sure you tuck in the initial end of the yarn before you add the cardboard or else doing so will get annoying.

8. Sc, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 (16)

NOTE: If you're embroidering (rather than needle felting) the toenails, now is a good time to do that. If you're needle felting them, wait until after you've stuffed the foot.

9. Sc around (16)

NOTE: Speaking of stuffing the foot, this is when I started doing that, then stuff as you go until you start combining the feet in row 12.

10. (sc 2, dec)  x4 (12)

11. Sc around (12). For the first three feet, fasten off. For the fourth foot, don't cut the yarn yet.

12. Once you have all four feet (with toenails, however you're choosing to do them), set them together on your workspace clustered in a square. Each foot should slope slightly (i.e., they're not perfectly symmetrical); position them so that the narrower parts are all together in the center.

Image of the feet arranged and pinned

12 cont. Pin the feet in place to each other to hold them steady; make sure the bottoms are all flat. I left the pins in until after I finished sewing them to the underside. Go back to your active loop and crochet around the four feet so they're all together in one round.

Image of crocheting the feet together

12 cont. You don't really need to count specific numbers of stitches at this point; a few of the existing stitches aren't going to get used because you're just going around the outsides. See the picture. SC around for one full round and end your round near but not at a corner (if your feet are in a square and you imagine the square as a clock, it's at about 10:00 or 2:00; see picture). Our goal now is to make one end of this taller so that the cap ends up peeking up at an angle.

Image of approximately where you'll finish row 12

13. Mark where you ended and then chain 1 and turn. Going in the opposite direction from before, sc across until you get to roughly the mirrored position. See diagram. (Diagram assumes right-handed crochet. For left-handed crochet, mirror it, i.e., you're going counterclockwise instead of clockwise when you go "backwards.")

14. Mark where you ended. Chain 1 and turn. Sc all the way around the entire thing now. When you're at the "shelf" between row 12 and the raised part of row 13+, do a decrease down (or up) the side; see photo. Go a stitch or two past where you started (so that you've done the decrease up the shelf as well as down it) and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. You can finish with a slip stitch or an invisible finish but it's not critical. Image of doing a decrease down the side of the shelf

Underside Use buff (or tan/beige/taupe/etc.) yarn. Our goal here is to make a really floppy circle, so we're going to use a huge number of increases. This absolutely will not lay flat, and it isn't supposed to! It's specifically supposed to be wrinkly and saggy, as is the eventual fate of all of our bottoms. 1. MR 6 2. Inc 6 (12) 3. Inc 12 (24) 4. Inc 24 (48) 5. (Sc 1, inc) around (72) 6. (sc 1, inc) around (108) 7. (sc 17, inc) around (114) 8. (sc 18, inc) around (120) 9. (sc 9, inc) around (132). Fasten off. If you want to be fancy and leave a long tail for sewing the underside to the orange cap, you absolutely can do that. I tried to do that and eventually ended up cutting it off because it kept getting in the way as I was sewing the feet to the underside, so if you tend to have problems with yarn getting tangled when you sew, maybe leave it short.

Image of the floppy underside measured against the body

Assembly • Position the feet (which should be a single unit now) in the center of the underside and stitch them on. Because of the raised portion from rows 13-14, the underside will be kind of at an angle. Be careful to keep the feet centered; because the underside is so floppy, it's really easy to accidentally get shifted around if you're not careful. Make sure that the feet all stand mostly flat on the ground but that the underside is tilted.

Image of the underside attached to the feet at an angle

• Position the body on the underside and use a lot of pins to hold it in place. Basically, the places where you put pins will end up getting stitched to the body and the places between the pins will be big floppy wrinkles that fold in on themselves.

Image of the underside being pinned to the body and forming the wrinkles

The front of the doll is the part where the cap is raised (where you built the extra "shelf" on the feet). Attach safety eyes to the underside facing the front. Make sure that when you re-pin this, the eyes are mostly flat and not folded into a wrinkle.

Image of putting the safety eyes on the front

• Sew the underside to the cap, and sew the wrinkles to themselves so that you don't have any openings. If you haven't done so already, sew the white ring to the orange cap (in the photos, I did that first, but I can understand why you might choose otherwise).

• All done! Enjoy your little Weebo!

[craft-my-world]

Just a short video of my card weaving in progress

[craft-my-world]

this messed up vintage cat sewing pattern has tormented me since i saw it & like some other folks have done in that post - i tried my hand at tweaking the pattern to resemble the illustration (and my personal tastes) a little more. i've ended up with this, which i have only tested at a small scale and not this final version exactly (where i have done such things as further widening the cheeks and finalizing the leg shapes.) i bestow it upon you nice folks now 👐

go forth and make weird little beanbag kittens! pls show me if you do!

[craft-my-world]

every time i see those posts like ‘what food from a show did YOU always wanna try’ i go lol none? but i just remembered im a liar

i always wanted the fucking soup brock made in the pokemon anime

[craft-my-world]

pdf crochet pattern

[craft-my-world]

:> made a shrimb ornament

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i followed a sewing pattern that didn't have any irl finished pics of it, and the whole time i was like 'yknow this doesn't seem like it'll work very well, but i'm the novice so i guess i should follow the pattern' and well.

[craft-my-world]

I'm trying to make a good pot roast in my crockpot, but after I take it out it gets dry. It's on "low" (whatever that means) for 8 hours. I've tried searing it before and still dry. It's submerged in plain water with some herbs and spices for that time. Am I over/undercooking it? It's a cut with low fat %, is that why?

I love you. I think you learned how to make pot roast from someone on Opposite Day, or perhaps April 1st. The only thing you got right is 'low heat for 8 hours'.

Choose a fatty cut of tough meat. Look for lots of fat marbling on a Chuck roast or Shoulder roast. Tough meat has a ton of flavor, and the fat keeps the meat from drying out. The long cook time on low heat, plus acids will make 'tough' meat into a pull-apart, melt-in-your-mouth glory.

Make sure the meat is completely thawed, NOT frozen.

Plain water and nothing else except herbs/spices is.... not what I'd do. A lot of flavor can come into the broth when you add whole carrots (minus the carrot top!) and quartered onions in there. I'm a fan of adding some big chunks of pumpkin or butternut squash and chunks of turnip as well.

I think using red wine for part of the liquid base, and adding a hearty helping of worcestershire sauce will also help the flavor and making the meat 'melty.' The acid and alcohol will draw more, and different flavors from the meat and vegetables that water alone cannot do. Makes it richer.

For my very best pot roast recipe, which had my wedding guests fuckin' clamoring to get the recipe; I cheat. I'm not ashamed of that fact. For the richest, most face-punchingly meaty tasting broth, go to an asian market (or online) and find a mushroom hot pot soup base. It'll be a thick liquid inside a bag, which you then dilute with water. Use THAT as the liquid base (remember to dilute it!), and add your wine and wocestershire sauce to it, along with those herbs & spices. Your whole face will be blown off with flavor. It's the best.

[craft-my-world]

Rowlets 🍃🦉

Pattern below the cut ⬇️

Body

1. (Starting in tan) Mr6 (6)

2. Inc x6 (12)

3. [Sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. [Sc2, inc] x6 (24)

5. [Sc3, inc] x6 (30)

6. [Sc4, inc] x6 (36)

7. [Sc5, inc] x6 (42)

8. [Sc6, inc] x6 (48)

9-16. Sc around (48)

17. (Switch to white) BLO Sc around (48)

18. Sc around (42)

19. [Sc6, dec] x6 (36)

20. [Sc5, dec] x6 (30)

21. [Sc4, dec] x6 (24)

22. [Sc3, dec] x6 (18)

23. [Sc2, dec] x6 (12)

24. [Sc, dec] x6 (6)

25. Dec x6 (6)

Face mask

In white

Ch and turn at the end of each row.

1. Ch6, starting in 2nd stitch in chain, *inc, sc3, inc (7)

2-4. Sc around (7)

5. Dec, sc3, dec (5)

6. Dec, sc, dec (3)

FO. Attach to row 1 and sc5 across starting chain. Ch and turn and repeat the instructions on the other side of the chain starting from '*'.

Bowtie Leaves

In green

Make 2.

1. Mr4 (4)

2. Inc, sc3 (5)

3. Inc, sc4 (6)

4. [Sc2, inc] x2 (8)

5. Sc around (8)

6. [Sc2, dec] x2 (6)

7. [Sc, dec] x2 (4)

FO. Sew leaves together from starting chain.

Beak

In white

1. Ch4, starting in 2nd stitch in chain, sc2, inc, going around to the other side of the foundation chain, sc2, inc (8)

2. [Sc3, inc] x2 (10)

3. Sc around (10)

Feet

In orange

Make 2.

For each foot, make 2 toes. Finish off one toe, and leave the second on your hook.

1. Mr5 (5)

2-5. Sc5 (5)

FO First toe here. Continue below for second toe.

6. Sc3, attach to 2nd toe and sc5, attach back to toe 1 and sc2 (10)

7. [Sc3, dec] x2 (8)

8. Sc around (8)

9. [Sc2, dec] x2 (6)

10. [Sc, dec] x2 (4)

Tail

In green

Ch and turn at the end of each row.

1. Ch9, starting in 2nd stitch in chain, sc8 (8)

2-3. Sc across (8)

4. Dec, sc4, dec (6)

5. Sc across (6)

6. Dec, sc2, dec (4)

7. Dec x2 (2)

8. Dec (1)

Sc border around piece, then FO.

Wings and feathers

In tan

Attach hook into front loops of round 17 of the body, below the edge of the face mask.

To make a feather:

Ch4, tr x2, ch4 and slst into same stitch as last tr, slst x2

To make a wing:

Ch and turn at the end of each row

1-2. Sc7 (7)

3. Dec, sc3, dec (5)

4-5. Sc across (5)

6. Dec, sc, dec (3)

7. Sc, dec (2)

8. Dec (1)

Cut and reattach hook at the beginning of the wing. Sc a border around the wing towards the unworked stitches of round 17 of the body.

Crochet around row 17 in this order: feather, wing, feather x4, wing, feather.

[craft-my-world]

Crochet pattern: Axolotl

[craft-my-world]

Littens 🔥

Pattern below the cut ⬇️

Head

In black

1. Mr6 (6)

2. Inc x6 (12)

3. [Sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. [Sc2, inc] x6 (24)

5. [Sc3, inc] x6 (30)

6. [Sc4, inc] x6 (36)

7-10. Sc around (36)

11. [Sc5, inc] x6 (42)

12-13. Sc around (42)

14. [Sc5, dec] x6 (36)

15. [Sc4, dec] x6 (30)

16. [Sc3, dec] x6 (24)

Body

In black

1. Mr6 (6)

2. Inc x6 (12)

3. [Sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. [Sc2, inc] x6 (24)

5. [Sc3, inc] x6 (30)

6-8. Sc around (30)

9. [Sc3, dec] x6 (24)

10-12. Sc around (24)

Arms

Make 2.

1. (Starting in black) Mr6 (6)

2. [Sc2, inc] x2 (8)

3. (Switch to red) Sc around (8)

4. (Switch to black) Sc around (8)

5. (Switch to red) Dec, sc6 (7)

6. (Switch to black) Sc around (7)

Legs

In black

Make 2.

1. Mr6 (6)

2. [Sc, inc] x3 (9)

3-6. Sc around (9)

Tail

In black

1. Mr4 (4)

2-10. Sc around (4)

Ears

In black

Make 2.

1. Mr4 (4)

2. [Sc, inc] x2 (6)

3. [Sc2, inc] x2 (8)

4. [Sc3, inc] x2 (10)

5. [Sc4, inc] x2 (12)

6. [Sc5, inc] x2 (14)

7. [Sc6, inc] x2 (16)

Muzzle

In red

Ch and turn at the end of each row

1. Mr3 (3)

2. Inc x3 (6)

3. [Sc, inc] x3 (9)

4. [Sc2, inc] x3 (12)

5. [Sc3, inc] x3 (15)

Use red felt for the forehead stripes. Use grey felt for the inside of the ears. Use brushed red yarn for the cheek fluffs and brushed black yarn for the tail fluff. Use black yarn to embroider a nose.

[craft-my-world]

[craft-my-world]

Fennekins 🔥🦊

Pattern below the cut ⬇️

Head

1. (Starting in light yellow) Mr6 (6)

2. Inc x6 (12)

3. [Sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. [Sc2, inc] x6 (24)

5. [Sc3, inc] x6 (30)

6. [Sc4, inc] x6 (36)

7-10. Sc around (36)

11. (Switch to white) [Sc5, inc] x6 (42)

12-13. Sc around (42)

14. [Sc5, dec] x6 (36)

15. [Sc4, dec] x6 (30)

16. [Sc3, dec] x6 (24)

Body

In light yellow

1. Mr6 (6)

2. Inc x6 (12)

3. [Sc, inc] x6 (18)

4. [Sc2, inc] x6 (24)

5. [Sc3, inc] x6 (30)

6. Sc around (30)

7-8. Sc around (30)

9. [Sc3, dec] x6 (24)

10-12. Sc around (24)

Arms

In light yellow

Make 2.

1. Mr6 (6)

2. [Sc2, inc] x2 (8)

3-4. Sc around (8)

5. Dec, sc6 (7)

6. Sc around (7)

Legs

In light yellow

Make 2.

1. Mr6 (6)

2. [Sc, inc] x3 (9)

3-6. Sc around (9)

Tail

1. (In orange) Mr6 (6)

2. Sc around (6)

3. [Sc, inc] x3 (9)

4. [Sc2, inc] x3 (12)

5. Sc around (12)

6. (Switch to light yellow) [Sc3, inc] x3 (15)

7. Sc around (15)

8. [Sc4, inc] x3 (18)

9-10. Sc around (18)

11. [Sc, dec] x6 (12)

Stuff piece now.

12. Dec x6 (6)

Ears

In light yellow

Make 2.

1. Mr4 (4)

2. [Sc, inc] x2 (6)

3. [Sc2, inc] x2 (8)

4. [Sc3, inc] x2 (10)

5. [Sc4, inc] x2 (12)

6. [Sc5, inc] x2 (14)

7. [Sc6, inc] x2 (16)

8. [Sc7, inc] x2 (18)

9. [Sc8, inc] x2 (20)

Nose

1. (Starting in dark grey) Mr3 (3)

2. Inc, sc2 (4)

3. (Switch to white) [Sc, inc] x2 (6)

4. [Sc2, inc] x2 (8)

5. [Sc3, inc] x2 (10)

Using strands of orange yarn, loop and tie them in the inside portion of the ears to create the ear fire. Brush them out using a wire slicker brush and use a needle felting kit to shape the fluffs into flame shapes. Follow the same process with shorter strands of white yarn for the cheeks. If you do not have a needle felting set, you may also be able to get a similar effect using a bit of fabric glue to pinch the tops of the floofs together into a point, although I have not personally tried this method.