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EQUIPMENT USED FOR ROOF CLEANING PROCESS

Cleaning roofs, as we mentioned in earlier post, can be done in dozens of ways using many different cleaners and tools. As roof cleaning contractors, we want to use the method that keeps our material and labor costs as low as possible while producing results that our customers will appreciate and recommend to others. We also want to be safe, so minimizing the potential for injury is a very important consideration.

We have introduced the ideas of water brooms, surface cleaners, and using a pressure washer. We have also talked about ‘no pressure’ washing with strong cleaners that do all the work. Of all these methods, the safest, lowest cost method is to apply strong cleaners to a roof with a bleach-rated pump. This can be accomplished either from the ground or up on the roof (if you have the proper safety equipment).

While we cannot point to any single method as “the only way”, we know that the most successful contractors cleaning roofs today use strong cleaners and no pressure. The primary ingredient of that strong cleaner is sodium hypochlorite, or bleach. You must have the proper equipment for this technique. Here are some suggestions.

First, you have to arrive at the job ready to work. You can buy or build roof cleaning rigs that fit into the bed of a standard pickup truck, or you can use a trailer rig for this. Using a trailer frees your truck up for other duties, so that is the preferred rig.

Next, you will need a few extension ladders of differing lengths. On the job, you will always grab for the shortest ladder that will do the trick, because of the weight and clumsiness of carrying longer ladders.

You will need one or two detergent tanks. It is ideal if the tank intended for bleach is light-proof (either molded in an opaque color or painted) to delay the break-down of the bleach from sunlight.

The ideal size of your primary tank is 100-125 gallons. You are limited by DOT to carrying 1000 pounds or less of any strong caustic like bleach, and that usually comes down to a little under 125 gallons.

If you have one tank, you will premix your final cleaner (bleach and soap) in that one tank. If you have two tanks, the second one can be as small as 30 gallons and is used for the soap you will add to the bleach.

You will use about 60 gallons of this mix to clean a typical roof, so your 125-gallon tank should get you through two jobs before you have to go and refill.

Now to the more expensive parts. You need to purchase a chemical transfer pump that will handle bleach. Some pump manufacturers offer Santoprene-fitted electric pumps, which can hold up well against bleach for a fair amount of time. If you use an electric pump like this, you can use a 12-VDC source for power. This may be a battery or you may even tap your vehicle as a power source. Some pumps are available in 120 VAC configurations, but they require a generator for power and there is no appreciable advantage to using them. Pump failures have to be expected with electric pumps, primarily due to the corrosive nature of bleach. It is often wise to have a second pump standing by in case you need it.

Alternative transfer pumps are gas-driven and built entirely of stainless steel and poly, which are impervious to bleach.

The pump you choose should deliver between 4-8 GPM, or you will waste a lot of time. The pump is permanently mounted to your rig, so you need a long hose to deliver the cleaner to the roof surface. There are several choices in hose material, some being “bleach-rated” and some being just plain inexpensive enough to throw away when it starts being affected by the bleach. Bleach-rated hose sells for about $2/foot, while clear braided poly hose goes for as little as $0.50/foot.

The diameter of the hose can make a huge difference in the volume and throw-distance you achieve with your pump. Contractors use hose that is sized between 3/8” and ¾” and anywhere in between. There is little cost difference between various sizes, and it is suggested that ½” or 5/8” might be just right.

Length of the hose is affected by your target market, but most contractors look at either 200’ or 300’ as the perfect length. This amount should allow you to reach all sides of a typical dwelling in your area. Keep in mind that many upscale neighborhoods featured very detailed roofs with difficult areas to reach. It is always better to have too much hose than not enough. Avoid splicing this hose as much as possible, as every splice is a possible future leak. Leaks destroy your pump’s ability to deliver, and may result in property damage.

If you use poly-braid hose, it will begin to discolor and turn stiff within a few months. You will likely replace this hose annually. If you want to get the most out of your hose, we suggest using a hose reel. This can be any hose reel, but if it is made with stainless parts (at least the plumbing) then you will get longer life from both the reel and the hose. If you elect to work without a reel, you will be coiling up the hose each day after work. Eventually as the hose stiffens this task gets harder and harder.

You want the pattern of the chemical spray to stay as tight as possible. A wide ‘splashy’ pattern leads to chemicals reaching spots you didn’t intend to hit. Ideally, a small pattern around a foot in diameter is ideal. You may have to experiment a little to achieve the pattern you are looking for, but most people are successful using 0-degree shooter tips such as a 0040, 0050, or 0060. Remember that plastic and stainless are not damaged by bleach, so make sure that your tip and gun are constructed of these materials. Some contractors build a gun using a ball valve, plastic pipe, and stainless nozzles. Variations abound, with most in favor of a bend downward at the end of the pipe. In stainless, this ‘bend’ is literally a bend in the tubing. In a plastic wand, a 45º fitting is added. Some dealers offer bleach-rated wands and guns already assembled for you.

Many contractors use a “multi-tip” tool that holds three or four assorted nozzles. This allows you to adjust your spray for conditions without having to look around for the last place you had that certain nozzle. They are all right at the end of your gun.

Among the miscellaneous items you will need to round out your equipment include a water hose and mixing buckets (if any part of your cleaning mix is in powder form). You may need rags, tarps to protect areas, light paper drop cloths for landscape plants, and other small items. Optional (but really nice to have) are things like ladder stand-offs (that allow you to place a ladder and climb it without hitting gutters) and a tool one manufacturer makes to continuously feed water to the gutters to keep the bleach from accumulating.

You should have whatever you need for contingency plans – in case you pump or hose fails or you get strong cleaner on an unintended surface.

Most importantly, you must invest in safety-related items. These include eye protection (like goggles or a face shield) and skin protection (rubber gloves, a face shield, etc.). You may want a rubber apron to wear when you are transferring chemicals, too. If you climb on to the roof to clean it you want that safety harness and possibly a portable anchor system that allows you free movement on the roof without the danger of an injurious or fatal fall. You also want Korkers or Cougar Paws for your feet to give you unbelievable traction on the slipper surface. Next, consider a respirator. Most strong chemicals will take your breath away, which is really scary up on a roof. Finally, you likely will want a waterproof pocket for carrying your cell phone, which can be your lifeline if you run into trouble.

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THE ROOF CLEANING PROCESS

Washing a roof was generally considered a low-pressure contact sport in the “old days”. Before the creation of contemporary tools and techniques, you had to climb onto the roof with a pressure washer wand or a surface cleaner to get the job done. This involved significant risk of falls. If you use this method, be sure to use all appropriate safety gear when climbing on any roof. Never attempt cleaning a roof without taking all proper safety precautions; even the flattest roof can become slippery and hazardous when wet.

To clean a roof this difficult and dangerous old-fashioned way, you would drag the pressure washer hose or surface cleaner up on to the roof using a ladder. Moving around to reach areas was dangerous, since the slanted surface was soon covered with soapy cleaner.

Avoid walking on buckled shingles and avoid obviously sagging areas. On many older roofs you will be able to see where the roof joists are located, and putting your weight on these spots is likely to cause no damage whatsoever.

Look for cracks around roof projections (chimneys, vents, etc) and avoid getting water near these problem areas.

To walk on a roof, you should have safety rigging that meets OSHA guidelines. This will likely involve a body harness tied off to a structure on the opposite side of the home and shoes designed for walking roofs. This sort of equipment can be found at Safety stores. Many contractors still walk roofs to clean, but safety equipment is available now that was not available years ago that make the job easier and safer.

One company now makes a roof anchor that simply slips down into roof vent pipes, for example. This allows you to move around reasonably freely, secure from the danger of a fall to the ground. It is a lot smarter than tying off to the bumper of a vehicle (the source of many urban legends in this business).

If walking the roof does not excite you, there are at least two alternatives. One is to use a man-lift such as the one pictured here. You can spray the roof from this secure perch without danger of slipping.

Another alternative is to work from the ground or from the roof edge. It takes specialized equipment to make this technique effective, but this is the safest imaginable way to get the job done. We will explain all this in our upcoming posts. Commercial restorations roof cleaning process involves techniques which are safe and guarantee best results after cleaning is done.

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ROOF CLEANING CHEMISTRY

We have introduced some elements of roof cleaning in or blog post about construction basics for roof cleaning, such as the idea that you might walk the roof in the cleaning process. It is time to drill down and talk about the advantages and disadvantages of all the options in front of you.

First, let’s discuss cleaning solutions. We have introduced the idea of using sodium hypochlorite as the base of your formula. In actuality, many different chemicals gave been widely used to clean roofs. In addition to bleach, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium chloride, and percarbonate cleaners are each commonly used. None of those cleaners is as aggressive (or as corrosive) as bleach.

Sodium hydroxide will kill the algae and remove the soil off any roof, but typically requires the use of more physical agitation than sodium hypochlorite. That agitation can come in the form of a surface cleaner, pressure from a power washer, or a simple scrub brush. Sodium hydroxide is best for a roof that is walk-able, because the pressure needed is frequently less than 500 PSI controlled by a person who can see if any damage is being caused. Visible damage usually consists of the granules being abraded off the surface of the shingle. Some contractors prefer using sodium hydroxide because it seldom causes problems with adjacent plant life or latex paint.

Potassium hydroxide behaves similarly to sodium hydroxide on a roof. Potassium hydroxide is used when animal fats are present, as may be the case on the roof of a fast-food restaurant.

Calcium chloride is a chemical powder usually referred to as “pool bleach”. It cleans somewhat closely to the way sodium hypochlorite does, but comes with some special problems all its own. It frequently leaves a white haze over the entire surface that cannot be easily rinsed off. The benefit of this cleaner is how easy it is to transport and handle. Until someone develops a variation on this chemical that eliminates the white haze, it is impractical to use it for roof cleaning.

Percarbonate cleaners and hydrogen peroxide are the least aggressive cleaners available. They either require extensive dwell time or excessive abrasive force to be effective. Many of these cleaners are packaged for casual or DIY use because they really can’t harm anything.

In the end, what most contractors who are profitable doing roof cleaning have found is that using bleach is the fastest and most effective way to clean a roof. If you use bleach properly, you will be able to clean dozens of roofs each week and make money on every one of them. It is imperative, therefore, that you learn how to use bleach properly.

Bleach is susceptible to both sunlight and heat. Either of those will break down the chemistry of bleach relatively quickly – in a matter of days.

The first rule: Only buy the amount you can use in a reasonably short period of time. The length of time is determined by how well you can take care of the bleach. If you have light-proof containers in cool storage areas, you may be able to hold bleach for a month. If you are going to keep it on your trailer in a semi-clear jug, you may only be able to hold bleach for a couple of days.

The second rule: Buy fresh bleach. Bleach purchased from a chemical supplier is usually not a problem, but bleach bought from a store where it may have been sitting for several months is often a waste of time and money. If you are buying bleach from a grocery store, go to the store that moves the most product every week. A Wal-Mart is an excellent place to shop for fresh bleach, for example. What you are buying at a place like Big Lots is more like water than bleach.

Fresh bleach from a grocery store is likely a 5.75% concentration. This number is extremely important to you. Most contactors clean roofs with a concentration between 3% and 6%. If you are starting out with 5.75%, you might find you must use it straight or almost straight to get the cleaning effect you are looking for.

Some contractors are able to purchase industrial bleach at concentrations between 10% and 15%. This opens up their options. There is no appreciable difference between bleach bought at a grocery store and industrial bleach except the concentration (and the cost per usable gallon).

If you buy a gallon of 12.5% bleach, you have exactly the same cleaning power as 2.2 gallons of 5.75% bleach. If the 12.5% bleach costs you $3/gallon and the 5.75% bleach costs you $3/gallon, you are getting 2.2 times the cleaning power for the same dollar amount. That is the most common reason for purchasing industrial bleach.

If you can’t get industrial bleach in your area, use ordinary bleach. It is the same product.

The only other reason why industrial bleach may be more advantageous to use is the limit placed on how much chemical volume you are allowed to carry on your vehicle. The DOT and other government agencies limit you to 1000 pounds of any strong alkaline or acid on your vehicle. In liquid, that means somewhere around 100-125 gallons is all you can carry. A gallon of industrial bleach contains 2.2 times the amount of cleaning power as regular bleach, so carrying 100 gallons of industrial bleach is as valuable to you as carrying 220 gallons of regular bleach.

Assuming you have made the decision to use bleach as your cleaning agent, you next have to consider a soap to add to it. The purposes of adding soap are manifold: to add cling, to provide lift for any soil loosened, to cover the sharp odor of bleach, to activate the cleaning power of the bleach, and on and on.

Select a high-sudsing detergent to maximize the cling effect. You want the bleach to stay on the pitched surface long enough to be effective. The stuff that runs down the roof and into the gutter is almost wasted, while the stuff that sits there a while is doing all the work. The detergent you choose must be bleach-compatible, too. Read the MSDS of the soap you intend to use for a pH between 7 and 14 before you decide to mix it with bleach. The better the detergent is that you add, the lower the concentration of bleach has to be.

Most detergent agents are attacked by bleach (chemically) and after several hours may no longer work as well as when they are freshly mixed. Sometimes they produce a sour odor not associated with “clean”. Therefore, whatever soap you decide to add should be added only as needed to make a cleaner you intend to use within hours.

Laundry detergents and dish detergents are famous for being low-sudsing formulae. Car wash detergents are high-sudsing. A little experimentation will result in a soap that works well for you.

Finally, a lot of folks will add other things to the mix to make it their own. The most common addition is TSP, which adds to the alkalinity but doesn’t really help the overall cleaning process. Phosphates are banned in many areas as well. Don’t be fooled into thinking that your roof mix won’t work because you didn’t add TSP. If your roof mix doesn’t work, then the bleach you have is likely no good. As long as the bleach is fresh, it will work for you whether or not you add anything else.

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THE COMMON TYPES OF SOIL AND STAINS ON ROOFING

We have all seen roofs discolored and unattractive – covered with mold, algae, and bacteria. Like most issues affecting the integrity of a house, the problem goes much deeper than the unattractive appearance.

The gloeocapsa magma survives by eating minerals and excreting oxygen. The bacteria multiply rapidly by feeding on moisture and calcium carbonate (in the form of the limestone crystals used to manufacture asphalt shingles).

The problem has both spread and worsened dramatically during the last two decades. Internet research finds the main reasons cited for this worsening of the problem are:

1. The trend to rising humidity and temperatures (favorable conditions) has lead to increased reproduction (more spores)

2. Fiberglass shingles (the most commonly seen amongst today’s residential homes) are made with limestone as a filler (in the asphalt). These shingles hold moisture and organic “bacteria food” material longer (particularly on the north-side of the roof) than the paper/asphalt/ceramic shingles of 20 years ago. This is their food source.

Once the bacteria have taken hold of a roof surface that is favorable, it takes a significant amount of time before they become noticeable. From that stage, the visible evidence gets more noticeable every year until they take over the surface. This bacteria colony forms a tough outer shell for protection, and spends its days eating away at the infected roof.

It can be argued that there is little scientific evidence that these organisms cause actual harm to the roof. That is primarily because there is no financial support for creating a long term scientific study of the problem. The roofing manufacturing industry has no interest in proving to potential customers that there is no reason to replace their roof, for example. While this kind of study would help property owners make better decisions, it is really only financially valuable to you as a roof cleaner.

As contractors, we see the kind of damage done – up close. Common sense tells us that holding moisture in the shingles while breaking the shingles gown on a molecular level cannot help but contribute to the death of a roof. We see evidence every day of premature aging, rotting, and granule loss.

Shingles swell in thickness with this retained moisture. Most of the other visible damage is along the edges, where we see rounded and uneven edges, as well as curling. As the shingle degrades, it becomes a perfect host for further culprits, like algae and lichen. Once lichen appears, a roof may not even be salvageable.

This problem can appear at any time in the life cycle of a roof, even when the roof is relatively new. A shingle that might have lasted 20 years or 30 years if exposed only to weather may now become useless long before that time.

MOSS CONTROL

Roof moss is one of the other common reasons for roof cleaning. It has its own chemical solutions. Controlling the growth of moss is a potential service contractors can offer with seemingly no end of new customers.

Zinc Strips

Zinc strips are commonly used for a long-term solution to controlling mosses (see photo at right: skylights are surrounded by galvanized flashing that has suppressed the growth of mosses below the skylights). The remaining parts of this cedar shake roof are covered mainly with the moss Dicranoweisia. Zinc strips and galvanized flashing are apparently relatively safe and inexpensive. They effectively kill or retard the growth of mosses and fungi and appear to have effect up to 15 feet below the zinc flashing along the length of the flashing. Zinc strips are considered to be effective for up to one year, after which they can be replaced. The effect of galvanized flashing (example above) can persist for decades. Success rates vary with the degree of moss development and weather. Zinc strips or flashing are most effective before mosses are well developed. Physical removal of existing moss followed by installation of zinc strips or flashing is an effective long-term strategy for suppressing moss growth.

Negative Side Effects: Direct runoff from the zinc strips or flashing to surrounding vegetation, fish ponds, or water supplies should be avoided, because some contamination by zinc is likely to occur. Zinc strips should not be used with strong acids or bases (like bleach).

Zinc Sulfate

The active ingredient for most moss killers is zinc sulfate monohydrate – usually at concentrations of 99%. Zinc sulfate will not stain roofs or corrode aluminum and galvanized gutters. To use zinc sulfate one can apply powder directly to moss areas. Manufacturers recommend that powder should be applied at the rate of up to three pounds for every 600 square feet. For spraying combine three pounds to five gallons of water and apply to 600 square feet. This product needs to be applied on a calm day.

Powder application has been known to control mosses for two years and spraying application may need to be applied annually. Some roofing companies will guarantee no mosses for up to five years after using this product while treating roofs. Avoid runoff that can reach aquatic areas. Toxic to fish.

Zinc Chloride

Zinc chloride comes in two different concentrations, 13% and 62%. The 13% concentration can be applied directly to moss without mixing with water. Spray directly from nozzle six to ten inches away from target. Make sure to wet the area thoroughly. The 62% concentration needs to be mixed with water before applying to an affected area. Mix one pint of concentration to three gallons of water. Using a backpack sprayer, one manufacture recommends using one gallon for every 100 sq ft. Zinc chloride should be applied just prior to fall rains or in the early spring.

Zinc chloride is effective in controlling mosses from one year up to five years. Increased application concentrations may be needed in areas of higher moss concentration. Avoid drift and runoff when using this product. Zinc chloride will affect other plants and lawns. Application should only take place when air is still and when no rain is expected within 24 hours. Zinc chloride is corrosive and should not be used when copper fixtures are present. This product is toxic to fishes and aquatic invertebrates. Avoid contaminating water sources with zinc chloride. If zinc chloride comes into contact with a painted area damage is possible.

Zinc – Copper Sulfate mix

Zinc and copper sulfate comes dry, and can be applied as a powder or mixed with water. This product reacts electrolyticallly with water to stimulate a slow release reaction. Zinc and copper sulfate will not stain patios, decks, walls, walkways, buildings or roofs. However, zinc and copper sulfate may react with red bricks. This product is not harmful to lawns, ornamental shrubs, trees, turf or other vegetation such as flowers and vegetation. To apply simply sprinkle areas thoroughly with powder when it is wet, either after a rain or when early morning dew is present. Do not use this product in high wind. For spray application a wet applicator may need to be purchased. It is not clear if this product is still available commercially. According to information from one manufacturer, apply one pound of moss killer to 1000 sq ft. This product may be applied anytime during the year, but should not be applied while it is raining. Since this product specializes in the slow release reaction; allow plenty of time for the chemical to act. This product is corrosive and should not be used if copper fixtures are present.

Applications of zinc and copper sulfate are said to last for up to one year depending on the concentrations of moss. Annual application is generally needed. Though this product is supposedly safe for surrounding plants, it is still toxic to fishes and aquatic invertebrates. Do not apply this product to water or let the product come into contact with water sources. When applying this product or any product to rooftops it is essential to avoid runoff. Collecting the runoff would greatly reduce the negative effects on the environment.

Bleach

Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) can be used on a number of surfaces contaminated with mosses including decks, patios, walks and roofs. When used to proper concentrations bleach is non corrosive to metals and will not stain treated areas. One should, however, avoid contact with clothing. Brand names of bleach especially for mosses can be found in the moss control area in garden centers. Bleach is applied just as you do for roof cleaning, making this solution perfect for what you already plan on doing.

Bleach applications remain effective for up to one year, but annual applications are usually necessary. Bleach at these concentrations will be toxic to plants if left on for more than ten minutes. After ten minutes, injury or “burning” of foliage will occur. Since this product is toxic to fishes and aquatic invertebrates contact with water sources should be avoided.

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WHAT DO WE CLEAN FROM A ROOF?

When you pull up to a house one of the first things you notice is how stained or discolored a roof is. Some people will want their roofs cleaned merely for aesthetic reasons while others are looking to extend the life of their roof. As we stated earlier, as much as 50% of all roof replacements have been done because of the appearance of the roof and not actually because of its functionality.

How much is spent on a roof? $5,000, $10,000, $20,000, or even more? Whatever your reason for roof cleaning that is a huge investment to protect. If you can extend the life of a roof, you delay the cost of roof replacement.

Cleaning residential and commercial roofing has become one of the best profit centers of the exterior cleaning business over the last decade. This is due to two factors: the fast spread of the contributing algae problem from warm, humid climates in the southeast to the north and west; and secondly due to the touch-less cleaning techniques that came out of Florida over the last couple of decades.

We will be discussing causation and the wide array of solutions and techniques used to combat the problem. Just as in every other element of cleaning, there is no single way to achieve acceptable results – there are many ways to get the job done.

No matter how you end up cleaning roofs, there are basic things you should understand about roofs before you ever decide to tackle a job. If you are going to walk on a roof, for example, you had better know how that roof is constructed and where you can put your feet and still be safe. If a roof is close to failing due to age or abuse, you should be aware of that before you commit to do the work.

We will begin with discussing what is causing all of the problems and then move on to the most popular and profitable techniques used today. When cleaning a roof it is important to identify what we are cleaning and removing as well as how to perform these jobs.. Before we do let’s discuss just what is on the roof!

Cyanobacteria or Cyan Bacteria – One of the most common items is a type of over 20,000 types of algae that is not related to other algal groups, Cyanobacteria or Cyan Bacteria. Despite the name, Cyanobacteria does not have decomposing properties. It acxtually contains chlorophyll which traps the energy from the sunlight allowing it to grow anywhere. Cyanobacteria are capable of surviving in extreme conditions and have been found in deserts as well as Antarctica. Cyanobacteria have been found on polar bears and can give off a green hue to the polar bear’s coat.

Gloeocapsa Magma – a bacteria that appears on many roof tops that appears often as black or greenish streaks. It thrives on limestone and calcium carbonate that is a structural part of shingles. Moisture is critical, so this bacteria forms a hard surface that retains moisture. This is why these streaks are usually prevalent on the north side of the roof more shielded from the sun or areas under trees. It degrades the shingles over time. Slowing or stopping the deterioration will extend the longevity of the roof.

Lichens – Lichens are not single organisms the way most other living things are, but rather it is a combination of two organisms which live together. Most of the lichen is composed of a fungus, but living among the filaments are algal cells, usually from a green algae or a cyanobacterium. In many cases the fungus and the algae which together make the lichen may each be found living in nature without its partner, but many other lichens include a fungus which cannot survive on its own — it has become dependent on its algal partner for survival.

Moss – Mosses are very small green plants. Typically they consist of a stem not much thicker than a thick hair, densely covered with leaves maybe 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch long. Often moss stems branch and rebranch. Usually many mosses grow together forming a thick green carpet. Sometimes this carpet is no larger than a dime, but other times it may cover areas several feet in diameter. They commonly grow close together in clumps or mats in damp or shady locations. They do not have flowers or seeds, and their simple leaves cover the thin wiry stems.

WHY CLEAN ANY ROOF?

There are many reasons for cleaning roof. Some of the most important ones are listed below:

1) Left untreated, the roof will begin to fail within a few years.

2) Left untreated, the roof will absorb excessive heat, taxing A/C systems and raising utility costs.

3) You can help them get the maximum life expectancy of the roof, without damaging it.

4) You can clean the roof at a fraction of the cost of replacing the roof.

5) You can drastically improve the curb appeal of their home. This is expecially important if the property owner is planning on selling their home!

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CONSTRUCTION BASICS FOR ROOF CLEANING

Since the primary target for roof cleaning work is the residential market, we are going to look at typical home construction to introduce roof safety and roof etiquette.

It’s important that you understand the basics of roof construction before you think about doing this work. If not, you may cause leaks and severe damage to the home – or even hurt yourself. Most power washers use machines capable of pumping 4-8 gallons of water per minute, and one mistake can cause thousands in damage, for example.

Most roofing materials are installed over a layer of felt paper and in some cases a rubber like ice guard material. The felt paper is installed over plywood sheathing, which is nailed to the rafters every 24” (varies by local codes). Sometimes you can see where the rafters are because they form almost invisible ribs on the roof. This is a sign of aging, indicating that the plywood is sagging ever so slightly in between the rafters.

The first layer of shingles is called the starter course and is installed at the lowest point on the roof, upper-side pointed down. This allows a solid base for water to run over without leaking down into the rafters and plywood between the shingle keyways. Once this starter course is installed another shingle is place directly on top of it, and the rest of the roofing is placed in a similar fashion up the roofline. The reason shingles are installed in this manner is to allow the water to run over one shingle onto the next until it enters the gutter system.

If the system for roof cleaning that you adopt involves walking the roof, it is critically important that you objectively look at the roof for signs of weak spots. There may not be any leaks appearing in an old roof, but all it might take is walking around on the wrong spots to make the situation arise. Look for any sagging areas, as that indicates a weakness in the plywood. Stepping on a weak spot like that could end up causing you to drop through the roof to the attic below.

If you walk a roof, limit your footsteps to the rafters if at all possible. As an alternative, many contractors use walking boards they can move around. Stepping on a board spreads your weight over the size of the board instead of just the size of your shoe.

Now that you understand the basics of roof construction it’s equally important to know the other structures on the roof and their function to avoid causing leaks around them.

Vent Pipes – Vent pipes are used to vent gasses from plumbing fixtures in the home. They have a rubber gasket around them that wraps tightly around the protruding pipe to keep out water. Inspect all vent pipes to make sure there are no cracks or tears in them.

Flashing – Flashing will be found where chimneys and other objects meet the roofing. It should be fastened and sealed in place to keep water from entering the home when it runs down the surface.

Ridge Vents or Peaks – This picture shows the peak of a roof with the ridge vent removed so you can see where any water entering it will enter the home.

Nail Pops – Nail pops may only be small holes in the roofing but they can allow water into the home and under the shingles and felt paper. When water gets under the tar paper it can become trapped and cause the plywood underneath to rot.

Skylights – Skylights may be found on many roofs and require extra caution. Never spray water around them, as they will usually leak if you do.

Powered Attic Vents and Missing Shingles – Most homes have motor driven vents on their roofs to remove excess heat on hot summer days. If water is sprayed under these vents it can easily run down the wires causing a short in the electrical system or a fire. Obviously it’s also important to make sure there are no missing shingles before you begin washing the roof. All of these items can easily be fixed by an experienced roofer but its imperative that they are fixed before you clean the roof!

[commercial-restorations]

TILE, METAL AND MEMBRANE ROOFS

Asphalt roof type was discussed in our previos blog post. In this post we would be discussing some more roof types namely tile roofs, metal roofs and membrane roofs.

TILE ROOFS

Here is an example of clay barrel tiles used for roofing. This is a popular look in states that border Mexico and the Gulf.

The manufacture of tile roofing is represented by the Tile Roofing Institute, whose web page is www.tileroofing.org

Clay tile is produced by baking molded clay into tile. The density of the clay is determined by the length of time and temperature at which it is heated. Tiles may be glazed and also may have surface texture treatments applied. As a result, there are a wide variety of tile profiles, styles, finishes and colors available. In addition, each tile may have separate field, ridge, hip, gable and terminal tiles of various shapes. Installation methods depend on the nature of the tile being installed; that is, whether it is two piece, one piece, interlocking or flat.

Concrete tiles are made of portland cement, sand and water in varying proportions. The material is mixed and extruded on molds under high pressure. The exposed surface of a tile may be finished with cementitious material colored with synthetic oxide additives. The tiles are cured to reach the required strength. They generally have lugs on their undersides for anchoring to batten strips. There are additional waterlocks or interlocking ribs on the longitudinal edges that impede movement and prevent water infiltration. As with clay tile, there are a wide variety of profiles, styles, finishes and colors available. Color may be added to the surface of a tile or dispersed throughout (color through). Special texture may be added in surface treatment.

The TRI does not suggest any particular cleaning method, but they reference the fact that cleaning may be necessary. A check of some manufacturers finds instructions like: What is the best solution to use forcleaning roof tile? Common household bleach at no more than 1% strength should kill most of the algae spores.

Contractors have tried to clean using solutions of just 1% concentration without good results. Repeating what we said before, we find we can make a solution in the range of 3%-6% concentration and have an effective cleaner without altering the integrity of a tile roof.

The other element to creating a cleaning solution like this is that it should contain some soap. We strongly suggest that adding a surfactant (detergent) to your roof cleaning solution will minimize how much of that solution you have to use overall.

METAL ROOFS

The Metal Construction Association (www.metalconstruction.org) promotes metal roofing. They certify properly manufactured roofing panels. The Metal Roofing Alliance (www.metalroofing.com) also promotes metal roofing materials for residential and commercial use.

Typical metal roofs are either shingles or panels, and may be bare or painted. The most common metal roofing consists of metal panels that are painted in an architectural color.

The drawback to cleaning a painted roof comes from the paint itself. Paint subjected to intense sunlight and pollution may fade, pit, or discolor. Since any algae or soil on the surface of the paint cannot root down into the paint, we found that lighter concentrations of bleach and soap (in the range of .5% – 1.0% sodium hypochlorite) gives the best cleaning with the least amount of risk to the paint.

Copper roofs are different. The most common complaint about the appearance of copper roofing is about ‘patina’ or fingerprints, and acid-based cleaners are excellent for restoring the original look of copper.

MEMBRANE ROOFS

Membranes are sheets of flexible rubber-like material used for roofing. Limited to mostly flat industrial roofing where the membrane is covered with stone, membrane roofs are rarely cleaned.

SLATE ROOFING

The National Slate Association (http://slateassociation.org/) is a resource for roofing professionals, architects, builders and property owners for slate roofing materials. Since slate roofing is made from metamorphic rock, it will not saturate with water, and it is completely fireproof, making it a great material for homes in areas subject to wildfires. Since it is a natural stone it also has extremely long life expectancy, as long as 100 years!

There are many other types of roofing materials used in construction today, but regardless of what they are made of, all of them can become a breeding ground for mold and algae growth.

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ASPAHALT (COMPOSITION) ROOF

To start, there are a varied number of roof types to consider. Asphalt shingles are the most common roofing material, but you will also find shakes made of wood or concrete or slate, tile roofs shaped like barrel tiles, metal roofs, and membrane roofs. When we discuss techniques, we will explain which technique works best with each type of roof.

ASPAHALT (COMPOSITION) ROOFS

Here is an example of an asphalt or composition shingle roof covered with the typical black streaks. Notice how the streaks start at a specific point and spread downward from that point?

Here is a close-up of “architectural” composition (asphalt) roofing (the most common type of shingle on upscale homes). Four out of five homes use asphalt shingles for their roof. As you can see, shooting water “up” at these shingles could cause serious problems.

These shingles are strong and resist damage when walked on. They have a useful life of 10 to 30 years, but are rated by manufacturers to last from 15 to 50 years.

To learn everything about asphalt shingles, your first stop should be ARMA, easily found at www.asphaltroofing.org This association speaks for the manufacturers of asphalt shingles, and their web site is loaded with information. If you are serious about being the most professional of roof cleaning services you should make a point of visiting this site annually to see what they have added. They claim that an asphalt roof that is 20 years old or more is a prime candidate for replacement.

A roof with shingles that are loose or broken ought to be replaced, but a roof that looks bad with algae stains (but is otherwise structurally sound) can simply be cleaned at a fraction of replacement cost.

Here is what ARMA says in one of their Technical Bulletins about cleaning roofs:

“For many years, roof discoloration caused by algae has been observed throughout the United States and Canada. This is commonly referred to as “fungus growth.” The discoloration usually has a brown to black appearance, and may be mistaken for soot, dirt, moss, or tree droppings.

The primary species of algae being observed is Gloeocapsa Magma. This type of algae is contained in and transported through the air, and tends to collect and grow upon roofing structures. Natural pigments produced by the algae may cause a white or light colored roof to gradually turn dark brown or black. The algae discolorations should not be confused with moss or tree droppings, which typically produce only localized discolorations.

This type of roof discoloration has been most widespread in the Gulf States and along the Northwest and Eastern Seaboards. It is not, however, confined to only these regions. Algae growth occurs to varying degrees in all regions of the country, especially those subjected to warm, humid conditions. It should be noted that almost all types of roofing systems are susceptible to algae discoloration. It is, of course, most readily visible upon white or pastel roofs, while it is not so visible upon darker shades of roofing.

Algae discolorations are difficult to remove from roofing surfaces, but may be lightened by applying a solution of chlorine bleach, trisodium phosphate, and water. Solutions for these ingredients may vary between shingle manufacturers and depend on the amount of discoloration. Solutions range from one cup TSP, one gallon bleach and five gallons of water, to one cup TSP and 2.5 gallons each of bleach and water.

First, gently disperse this solution on the roofing surface. Use normal precautions for handling bleach. Be sure to apply it carefully to avoid damage to other parts of the building and its surrounding landscape. Avoid scrubbing the surface, as this friction may loosen and remove granules. If possible, always work from a ladder and/or walkboards to avoid direct contact with the roof surface. Observe all possible safety precautions when working on or near the roof. Finally, rinse the solution from the roof by gently spraying the surface with water. Be warned that this solution application and rinse process will make the roof surface slippery and potentially hazardous to walk on during treatment.

The effectiveness of such cleaning techniques are only temporary, and discoloration will likely recur. However, several types of algae resistant roofing products have been developed, and are now commercially available. These asphalt roofing products are specifically designed to inhibit algae growth for extended periods of time.

Caution! High pressure washing systems for algae removal should not be used.”

So, what have they told us?

1) Avoid walking on the roof whenever possible.

2) Use bleach (sodium hypochlorite) in a light solution as the cleaning agent. We ignore their suggestion to use TSP, as the use of phosphates is currently not acceptable in several areas.

Analyzing their suggestions on cleaning, we discover that they are suggesting using bleach at a concentration of just under 1%. What they say exactly is to mix one gallon of bleach (which is Clorox from the grocery store, a 5.75% concentration of sodium hypochlorite) with five gallons of water – thereby diluting the bleach 5:1. (5.75% concentration diluted 5:1 becomes .96% concentration.) Experience tells us that this is way too light to be effective, and may just be ARMA’s way of protecting themselves from any legal action resulting from the use of stronger cleaners.

We find we can make a solution in the range of 3%-6% concentration and have an effective cleaner without altering the integrity of the asphalt roof.

The other element to creating a cleaning solution like this is that it should contain some soap. ARMA does not suggest using any soap in their mix, but adding a detergent adds “cling” to the solution so less cleaner is needed to do the job.

Commercial Restorations roof cleaning team strongly suggest that adding a surfactant (detergent) to your solution will minimize how much of that solution you have to use overall.

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THE JOB OF ROOF CLEANING WHAT IS INVOLVED?

The black (sometimes blue or green) stains commonly seen on roofs (known as gloeocapsa magma) is the common reason people ask us to clean their roofs. Most cleaners treat this as a mold, but gloeocapsa magma is actually a species of cyanobacteria. Cyanobacteria are an ancient line of photosynthesizing bacteria, which photolyze water, generating oxygen gas.

No matter what you define this as, it is unsightly and therefore affects the curb appeal of any home. The dark stains place an added load on air conditioning systems as well. As this bacteria feasts on the components of shingles, ultimately it invites moss and lichen and algae to infest the structure of the roof material and cause premature failure of the roof. It has been estimated that as much as 50% of all roof replacements have been done because of the appearance of the roof and not actually because of its functionality.

These stains are impossible to remove without the aid of chemicals. Caustics are inexpensive and very effective for killing molds like this.

Cleaning residential and commercial roofing has become one of the best profit centers of the exterior cleaning business over the last decade. This is due to two factors: the fast spread of the contributing algae problem from warm, humid climates in the southeast to the north and west; and secondly due to the touch-less cleaning techniques that came out of Florida over the last couple of decades.

We would show you causation and the wide array of solutions and techniques used to combat the problem. Just as in every other element of cleaning, there is no single way to achieve acceptable results – there are many ways to get the job done.

No matter how you end up cleaning roofs, there are basic things you should understand about roofs before you ever decide to tackle a job. If you are going to walk on a roof, for example, you had better know how that roof is constructed and where you can put your feet and still be safe. If a roof is close to failing due to age or abuse, you should be aware of that before you commit to do the work.

In our upcoming blog posts, we will start with discussing what is causing all of the problems and then move on to the most popular and profitable techniques used today.

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HOUSE WASHING FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Exterior cleaning and maintenance is a service that touches everyone. At some point, everyone will need to have the exterior of their home, business, or other property cleaned. This is why you need to hire Commercial Restorations cleaning contractor as we are professional, knowledgeable and well educated providing best services in this field since last 30 years.

Understanding of the stains or substances that need to be removed is part of the equation. Knowing what cleaners and chemicals will easily remove the stains or substances while not damaging or harming the substrate is the second part. Add to this equation, we also provide maintenance and repeat cleanings services. We have listed below some of the most important and frequently asked questions(FAQ’s) about house washing.

Q. Will cleaners and chemicals cause damage to siding, plants, and other surroundings? A. Understand the cleaners or chemicals that you select to use. Look for cleaners that are considered biodegradable and environmentally friendly. You should always take precautions with surroundings and property. Pre-wet surfaces and plants. Use of tarps to protect items as necessary is advised. Follow all manufacturer recommendations and you will be fine. Ignoring recommendations or being inventive with home brews invites dangerous mishaps.

Q. Will damage be caused by pressure washing of paint, siding, building material?

A. Pressure washers (the machines) do not cause damage by themselves. It is always an inexperienced operator that causes the damage. Set expectations for your customers, informing them that you are not be responsible for things like loose siding, loose paint, damaged windows, and other items.

Q. Does the customer need to be home? A. This is question only you can answer. The short answer is “No” since you are working outside. If you are concerned about payment, issues of returning for missed areas and touch-ups, interior damage and so forth then you may want to have the customer present when you do your work.

Q. Can you do my windows because they will be streaky, spotted when you are done? A. This can be handled in two ways. First, many contractors use a window cleaning product in their housewash to reduce streaking (a rinse aid). Second, other contractors perform window cleaning services as an add-on service to their exterior building cleaning.

Q. Can you wash in the rain?

A. The answer is usually “Yes” since you will be wetting the surfaces anyway. However, be careful of storms and lightning when operating equipment outdoors.

Q. How often should exteriors be cleaned?

A. A periodic maintenance plan will net you solid repeat business. We recommend approximately 24 months on most surfaces. Some buildings and some areas of the country need more frequent cleanings and should be evaluated on a case-by-case basis.

Q. Isn’t my house siding ‘No Maintenance? A. Low maintenance, yes. No maintenance, no. Any structure exposed to the weather outside will need to be cleaned as structures are exposed to mold, mildew, pollutants and much more. Your car is outside and gets dirty, and so will your building.

Q. Aren’t all pressure washing companies alike and isn’t this just squirting water?

A. There is much more to exterior cleaning than squirting a big water pistol! Companies are different in how they approach the customers and how they perform their services. Educating the customer about your methods and knowledge will give them that “warm feeling” that they are looking for from you. The customer wants to feel some type of security and confidence in your abilities. Once you have established this and get the job you need to “under promise and over deliver” – in other words exceed their expectations. Answer: No, they are not all alike and this is why we are different.

Q. Do I need insurance? A. Yes! These structures are very valuable and you need to cover yourself and your business from any issues. Many commercial companies will require coverage of $1,000,000 or more. Insurance coverage also gives the potential customer an added confidence in your company as well as add to the credibilty of the business overall.

Q. What about environmental issues? A. Depending on which city or county you are working in, even house washing activities can be affected by local regulations stemming from the Clean Water Act. You may be required to capture your used wash water. Check with local authorities to find out the regulations in your area. If you are, this could change the focus of your marketing, your choice of techniques and products, and more.

Contact us if you have more questions regarding house washing. We would be happy to help you.

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SAFETY TIPS WHILE CLEANING HOUSE

The #1 priority on any job is SAFETY. Before beginning any job you should take time to acquaint yourself with OSHA requirements (Occupational Safety and Health Administration, www.OSHA.com).

MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) – MSDS sheets offer important information on chemicals for emergency situations. These sheets are available to you from your dealer, but dealers are not required to give them to you unless you ask. MSDS pages must be present wherever and whenever the chemicals or cleaners are being used or stored. If you have chemicals in the vehicle then the corresponding MSDS sheets must be in the vehicle. The content of the sheets include chemical and safety information.

Chemicals/Cleaners – Chemicals and cleaners that are used in surface restoration should be handled with care. You can never have enough knowledge about them or exercise enough care when handling them. You should always have these items in your arsenal: latex gloves, elbow length gloves, safety goggles and/or a face shield, respirators, protective clothing, safety boots and/or shoes, first aid kit, and an eye wash kit. Always wear full safety gear when transferring chemicals from one container to another. Always transfer chemicals in a safe area where a spill won’t cause harm to the property.

Before using any cleaner, read the directions and make sure that you follow them. Do not mix cleaners together, or make them stronger than suggested, or you may cause damage to the surface or create a hazardous (unsafe) situation. Remember, short exposure to any chemical may not bother you today but continued exposure over time can cause serious health issues.

Choosing cleaners requires knowledge and thought. For a rule of thumb, use an alkaline cleaner (high pH) for all oil-based soils and an acid-based cleaner for all mineral-based soils.

Height – Buildings and homes come in various heights and number of stories. A proper inspection conducted before estimating and again prior to starting work should be conducted to acquaint you with the surroundings of the job. At this time plan how you will perform the job. Ladders should be inspected before use and should be tied off, secured and footed. Footing a ladder is having someone else secure the ladder. Be careful of ladders becoming slippery from cleaners and water. Pay close attention to proper weight ratings listed on the side of ladders.

There is other equipment to use when working with height and safety should be exercised. Some examples are safety harnesses, scaffolding, and lifts. Follow all instructions and take safety lessons where available when using these types of equipment.

Equipment – Make sure to read all manufacturers safety directions when handling equipment. Use equipment for intended uses only. Do not allow sprayers to be stored under pressure. Have a preventive maintenance program set up, not only so that you get longer life out of equipment but to also ensure that all equipment is in safe working order.

Note: Spontaneous combustion is produced by the generation of heat through a chemical reaction of its own elements. For this reason you should never store used rags in a closed area.

Lifting – When lifting heavy equipment and containers, you should bend down and lift with your knees. Many back injuries occur when lifting using arms and backs only. Use ramps to move heavy equipment to and from your vehicle.

Electrical Safety – When dealing with water, electrical safety is a must. Make sure all outlets and electrical lights are covered. Make sure all extension cords are in excellent working order. Do not spray water in the direction of outlets and electrical equipment. Always be aware of overhead power lines and be careful around power meters on the outside of the house.

Housekeeping – Clear the working area of any objects that may become entangled in or cut high pressure lines. Make sure that all exterior windows and doors are shut tight. Make sure that all animals and people are at a safe distance and away from chemicals, high pressure lines and your machine.

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THE PROCESS FOR CLEANING STRUCTURES

The phone is ringing. A customer is calling to get a quote for washing his house. We present a good price, and the job is ours. What do we do next?

Taking this from the first step, we must have answers to some questions before we can start. It is best to call 1 or 2 days prior to the scheduled day to confirm the date and answer any new questions. This is also a great time for any housekeeping issues that may affect the job. The following is a list of questions and recommendations you may want to ask or state:

1) Is the water supply on and accessible?

2) Have you made payment arrangements?

3) Will someone be home?

4) Will the homeowner remove screens as necessary?

5) Will all pets be kept inside that day?

6) Does the customer have any questions?

7) Have we confirmed the appointment and time?

8) Have we discussed weather related issues and rescheduling issues if needed?

9) Has the customer removed anything they feel is valuable from around the house and deck?

NOTE: It is important when cleaning a log cabin (and some other structures) that someone be present or that you have access to the interior. Water can get through to the inside and it helps to have someone first inspect for previous leaks prior to starting the job as well as keep an eye on the job moving forward.

It is now time to load up the truck and go to the job. For some a simple checklist of all items needed comes in handy so as not to forget a needed tool or item for the job. Upon arriving at the job you should knock on the door (in uniform) and introduce yourself. At this time a quick explanation may be in order and again ask if there are any questions. Next, before unloading any equipment, make sure you have a good water supply.

Now it is time to unload the truck and set up equipment. It is very important when setting up and using the equipment that you are paying attention to the landscape and surroundings. You do not want to pull hoses across the property doing damage to flowers, lighting, etc. that can cost you more money to replace than the job pays in profit. Remember you are here to make the property look better, not worse.

At this time we want to move items and protect any lights, plants, breakables, etc. that could be damaged. Connect the pressure washer to the garden hose (if you are using a portable power washer). For those with trailer or enclosed units you will simply pull the hoses out to the structure. For building cleaning it is time to assemble scaffolding, put lifts in place, anchor harnesses, etc, for safety and access to all areas. Depending on how we will be applying chemical we now want to make sure that we are set up and that are cleaning solution is in place. Now connect any wands, extension poles, external injection tools, or other equipment you will be using. Check to make sure everything is in working order.

We now should address any stains that should be scrubbed first. We never want to apply cleaners to dry surfaces so we want to wet the surface first. We should scrub all stains to the best of our ability prior to washing as a whole.

Wet down and cover any plants around the property that may be damaged by the cleaners you will be using. Consider protecting the plants after wetting them so that strong cleaners cannot sit on the leaves and burn them.

Working from the bottom up, apply water to the surface. Next, it is time to apply the cleaning solution to the surface (again from the bottom up) and let it dwell as needed. Dwell time is the amount of time you allow the cleaners and chemical to remain on the surface to work. After the appropriate time has elapsed it is now time to wash the siding. For the cleaning work, you should now work from the top down.

NOTE: The best way to apply cleaners and rinse the surface is to point your gun above the area you are trying to reach. Let the spray fall downward onto the surface instead of shooting directly at it. This will ensure that you don’t force water under the siding and between the joining sections.

House washing can be done by injecting cleaner through your power washer and using moderate pressure to clean. The ideal tool for this is a telescoping wand. More recently contractors have turned to an external injection tool, which allows them to shoot the cleaner on to the surface, let it dwell for 10-15 minutes, and then rinse it off using the external injection tool. The second method is faster, but uses more soap to get the job done. Whether you use the “dwell” method of cleaning or your injector; whether you use the telescoping wand or the external injection tool to wash a building, you will likely want to set up on one corner of the building with the objective of cleaning two sides before you have to move your equipment. The idea will be to apply cleaner to one side, let it dwell for several minutes, and then wash or rinse that side. Moving on to the next side, repeat the process. Then move to the opposite corner and repeat the process all over again.

If you are using an external injection tool, arc the spray a few feet away from the building so that the water/soap is falling down on to the surface.

If you are using a wand or telescoping wand, you should keep it moving at all times in a pendulum type movement and never start or stop the gun directly on the siding.

If you are using a telescoping wand, you should stand a safe distance away and start out approximately 12 inches away from the surface and move closer only as needed. Be careful when getting closer than 6 inches from the surface as you may cause physical damage (depending on the substrate and pressure involved). Most homes can be cleaned between with pressures between 300 – 1000 PSI.

If you need to minimize the pressure and still use the total GPM capacity of your washer there are easy ways to do this. The easiest way is to use the nozzle chart (page 15) and select a larger orifice tip to reduce the PSI. Another way is to use a dual lance wand which will apply chemicals through one tip and allow you to adjust the pressure of the other tip by the handle on the gun. It is important to look at the pressure washer as a large rinsing tool. Obviously there are times when increased pressure and hot water will come in handy but, it is important to allow chemicals and cleaners to do the actual work through proper dwell times. We recommend that you do not use any hot water over 130 degrees. Do not let chemicals and cleaners dry on surfaces.

Ladder use in cleaning of structures is frowned upon when using a pressure washer as this could lead to accidents and falls. Standing on a 24’ ladder and pulling the trigger on a 4000 PSI machine is a scary proposition. Extreme caution should always be exercised when using a ladder and you should have someone “foot” the ladder at all times.

To minimize or eliminate ladder use many contractors use chemical injectors, telescoping wands, external injection tool, or shooter tips to apply chemicals and rinse surfaces.

Chemical injectors allow you to apply cleaners through a special tip (black tip) to surfaces. This tip is used with your washer at a low setting and will shoot a good distance. Telescoping wands are often used in conjunction with this method.

NOTE: Never try to the use a telescoping wand from a ladder.

An external injection tool nozzle injects and proportions soaps, chemicals or liquids at high pressure or low pressure without going through your pump, hose, or gun. The external injection tool projects chemicals or other liquids to vertical heights of 40 feet or more, depending on your pressure washer. It can be used with virtually any pressure washer, hot or cold, from 1000PSI to 6000PSI. You can wash and remove mold, dirt and mildew from houses, buildings, water tanks, silos, roof tops, and high structures without using ladders, scaffolding, or a telescoping wand.

Shooter tips are tips that attach to your regular wand or telescoping wand and shoot chemical and water over 30 feet. These tips have a cone shape at the end of the tip at varying sizes to allow for different ranges.

We now move around the structure until it is completely cleaned. Before breaking down your equipment, you should (if someone is present and available) do a ‘walk around’ with your customer to inspect the job and sign off. You do not want to have to come back for a missed spot since this is very expensive to do.

If you will be washing windows it is at this time you would do so. It is also a nice touch to put back items as they were and do “touch-ups” such as blowing off walkways, raking mulch beds, wiping window sills, etc. as this will separate you from your competition and leave a lasting impression on the customer. Remember you are looking for repeat customers, so do everything to insure that you will be doing the work in years to come.

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HOUSE WASH FORMULAS

Each part of the country faces its own specific soil issues and its own “typical” house surface, and area contractors must seek out the best cleaner formula for that particular set of circumstances. Some contractors are looking for something unique, to set themselves apart from competition. Others are looking for the fastest or the cheapest or the easiest to use, etc.

Contractors who do not make the effort to educate themselves almost always default to some combination of bleach and soap because this combination is inexpensive, easy to get, and it works on some basic level.

Our previous discussion about chemical and cleaners has shown you that bleach alone doesn’t clean, and bleach presents some significant risks to the surfaces being cleaned. In Marketing class we discuss that using cleaners like this makes you the same (in your customer’s eyes) as the next guy – which means that price will be the only factor determining who gets the work. That is a losing proposition no matter how you look at it.

Many contractors enhance their work by using packaged cleaners mixed with extra ingredients, creating their own personal house wash mixtures. This could include products like water-soluble waxes (to add a little sparkle to the finished job) and rinse aids (to minimize spotting without the expense of softened or DI water).

There are abundant formulas for house washes that are passed around on the internet and wherever contractors gather. Some of those formulas involve ready-to-use products and some involve mixing raw chemicals yourself. We suggest you avoid the temptation to use raw chemicals. Untrained use of raw chemicals is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. For example, mixing bleach with ammonia creates mustard gas – which can be fatal.

Commercially prepared products are designed for the job and for the operator. Commercially prepared products come with directions, warranties, and product liability insurance coverage for your protection and your customer’s safety. If you use raw chemicals, YOU are liable for any resulting problems – including property damage.

A contractor sometimes thinks of packaged cleaners as expensive. The right way to think about cleaner costs is that the good ones save you time and, therefore, save you money. The difference between home-made products and prepared cleaners is often just pennies per job. Your customer ultimately pays for your cleaners, so treat them to the best overall value and performance you can find. Use products that will minimize any surface damage so that you maximize the income you get to keep.

Manufacturers of house washing tools often offer suggestions for house wash formulas. Many power wash dealers offer recipes as well. Manufacturers of packaged cleaners will often give you ideas on what to mix with their products to get excellent results. We suggest that you try several of these formulas. Once you have experienced them, select the product or combination of products and additives that works best for you in your area.

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CHEMICALS AND CLEANERS USED FOR HOUSE AND EXTERIOR BUILDING CLEANING

In this post, we would discuss about chemicals and cleaners that are used by our Commercial Restorations team for house and exterior building cleaning.

Sodium Hypochlorite – Sodium hypochlorite (a.k.a. bleach) is one of the most commonly used chemicals in the world. A solution of sodium hypochlorite is frequently used as a disinfectant and as a bleaching agent. Often it is simply called “bleach”, though other chemicals are sometimes given that name as well.

What are the characteristics of sodium hypochlorite? Sodium hypochlorite is a clear, slightly yellowish solution with a characteristic odor. It has a relative density of 1.1 (5.5% watery solution). As a bleaching agent for domestic use it usually contains 5% sodium hypochlorite (with a pH of around 11, it is irritating). If it is more concentrated, it contains a concentration 10-15% sodium hypochlorite (with a pH of around 13, it burns and is corrosive).

Sodium hypochlorite is unstable. Chlorine evaporates at a rate of 0.75 grams of active chlorine per day from the solution. When heated, sodium hypochlorite disintegrates. This also happens when sodium hypochlorite comes in contact with acids, sunlight, certain metals and poisonous and corrosive gasses (including chlorine gas). Sodium hypochlorite is a strong oxidizer and reacts with flammable compounds and reductors. Bleach affects natural fibers such as cotton and wood adversely.

These characteristics must be kept in mind during transport, storage and use of sodium hypochlorite.

Sodium hypochlorite is used as a disinfectant/mold killer. Sodium hypochlorite produces a residual disinfectant effect.

Sodium hypochlorite can be a dangerous and corrosive substance. While working with sodium hypochlorite, safety measures have to be taken to protect workers and the environment. Care should be taken to minimize the exposure of sodium hypochlorite to air, heat, or sunlight to prevent chemical breakdown.

Detergents – A detergent is a cleansing substance that acts similar to soap but is made from chemical compounds rather than fats and lye. Detergents and soaps are used for cleaning because pure water can’t remove oily, organic soiling. Soap cleans by acting as an emulsifier. Basically, soap allows oil and water to mix so that oily grime can be removed during rinsing. Detergents were developed in response to the shortage of the animal and vegetable fats used to make soap during World War I and World War II. Detergents are primarily surfactants, which could be produced easily from petrochemicals. Surfactants lower the surface tension of water, essentially making it ‘wetter’ so that it is less likely to stick to itself and more likely to interact with oil and grease.

Modern detergents contain more than surfactants. Cleaning products may also contain enzymes to degrade protein-based stains, bleaches to de-color stains and add power to cleaning agents, and blue dyes to counter yellowing.

Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide – Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is defined as a strongly alkaline caustic used in manufacturing soap and various sodium compounds. The main uses of sodium hydroxide are in chemical manufacturing (pH control, acid neutralization, off-gas scrubbing and catalyst); pulp and paper manufacturing; in petroleum and natural gas industry (removing acidic contaminants in oil and gas processing); manufacture of soap and detergents and other cleaning products; and cellulosics, such as rayon, cellophane and cellulose ethers; cotton mercerizing and scouring. Its sister chemical, potassium hydroxide, behaves similarly. Other uses include water treatment, food processing, flue-gas scrubbing, mining, glass making, textile processing, refining vegetable oils, rubber reclamation, metal processing, aluminum processing, metal degreasing, adhesive preparations, paint remover, disinfectant, rubber latex stabilizer and stabilization for sodium hypochlorite.

Butyl – Butyl is a water-soluble organic solvent designed to clean and degrease surfaces. For cleaning building exteriors, butyl works well in metropolitan areas where smog, vehicle exhaust, and airborne pollutants like jet fuel are present. Butyl is often used to remove acid-rain streaks on painted surfaces. Butyl alone does not kill mold as effectively as an alkaline cleaner.

Trisodium Phosphate – TSP is the tertiary phosphate of sodium used as a builder in soaps and detergents. For many years, compounds similar to this were used in clothes and dishwashing detergents, until the damage that phosphates caused to the environment was realized. Now, the power of phosphates is limited, but you can still purchase and use it in its purest form, TSP. TSP is a strong caustic used for washing surfaces prior to painting, especially exterior surfaces, because it will etch the existing surface. Liquid bleach is often added to TSP if there is mildew on the surfaces. The TSP and bleach act in concert to both kill the mildew and remove its characteristic stains.

It can damage many metal and painted surfaces, and can stain woods. It is not recommended for use on glass, either, since it will leave a filmy residue.

Oxalic Acid – Oxalic Acid is a toxic colorless crystalline organic acid found in oxalis and other plants; often used as a rust remover. Just hearing the word “acid” sounds ominous, but oxalic acid is easy to use and the safest for the home. In fact it is found in many vegetables including spinach, and rhubarb. Perhaps its best known use is that as a wood bleaching agent. It is toxic if ingested in large doses. Other acid-based cleaners are more effective on removing rust and efflorescence than oxalic.

Hydrochloric Acid – Hydrochloric acid is the proper name for muriatic acid and is a chemical compound. Hydrochloric acid is the aqueous (water-based) solution of hydrogen chloride (HCl) gas. It is a strong acid, the major component of gastric acid and of wide industrial use. A highly corrosive liquid, hydrochloric acid should be handled only with appropriate safety precautions. Hydrochloric acid is a fundamental chemical, and as such it is used for a large number of small-scale applications, such as leather processing, household cleaning, and building construction. Acid-based cleaners are more effective for removing rust and efflorescence than using a straight acid because the surfactant in a cleaner provides “lift” for the soil, enabling you to rinse it away easily.

Surfactants – Surfactants are wetting agents that lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing easier spreading, and lower the interfacial tension between two liquids. Surfactants constitute the most important group of detergent components. Generally, these are water-soluble surface-active agents comprised of a hydrophobic portion, usually a long alkyl chain, attached to hydrophilic or water solubility enhancing functional groups.

It is important to use a supplier who supports the products he sells and who supports you. There are many reputable suppliers who produce products designed specifically for the work you will be doing. Seek out quality products from quality suppliers, and you will always have the best tools for the job.

Contact us for your house or building cleaning work to get best results.

[commercial-restorations]

EQUIPMENTS USED FOR EXTERIOR BUILDING AND HOUSE CLEANING

Any task is always made easier with the right tools. At Commercial Restorations exterior building cleaning and house is no different. The right equipment can make the job easier and less time consuming.

Pressure Washer – Most contractors opt for a gas-powered portable pressure washer, cold water, rated at least 4 GPM. Hot water speeds the job up, and can be a worthwhile upgrade. If you go for hot water, limit yourself to 5-6 GPM, as this can be used with a typical hose connection to city water and no large tank is required.

Wands – The wands used with a washer can be very important. Having different length wands can make easy work out of hard to reach places. A short wand is excellent for washing small, closed in spaces. A long wand helps in reducing splashing in difficult areas like the underside of an upper level deck. A dual lance wand can apply chemicals at low pressure and rinse at the same or slightly higher pressure without changing wands or tips. A dual lance wand applies to house washing in that you can use this type of wand to regulate pressure as needed as you move from siding to brick, etc.

Telescoping Wands – Typical telescoping wands telescope from 6’ long to either 18’ or 24’ long, allowing you to reach areas like gable ends without trouble. They are used to apply power-washing agitation to hard-to-reach surfaces. These tools have a wide range in features and cost, from as low as $100 to as high as $500. The lower priced units are generally made of fiberglass and weigh up to 70 pounds or so. The more expensive models are made from aluminum and weigh as little as 17 pounds. Lower priced telescoping wands use plastic twist couplers to hold the wand in the extended position. Without careful handling, these twist couplers can strip out. Higher-end units use cam-lock fittings to hold the wand in an extended position.

The weight factor is very important with a tool like this. Often, contractors use belts to help support the weight of the wand with their hips rather than hold the tool all day with their arms alone.

Telescoping wands are a form of “direct” pressure washing, meaning that you will be washing with pressure on every square inch of surface. Using a tool like this is much less efficient than using soft wash tools like an X-Jet. Washing a house with a telescoping wand usually takes at least twice as much time as soft-washing a house. Nevertheless, a telescoping wand is a useful tool that every contractor whould have in his arsenal.

Tips – There are two factors to consider when selecting the proper tip: the orifice size and the spray angle. The orifice size determines the quantity of water and the pressure you will use. The spray angle determines the pattern of the spray.

Tip sizes are shown two ways. The first is a 4 or 5 digit number. In this method, the first two numbers indicate the angle of spray and the next 2 or 3 numbers indicate the orifice size. A 2505 is a 25º tip with a #5 (or #05) orifice. The other way that tip sizes are identified is by color-coding and by orifice size.

Red (0°) – The most powerful, not recommended for any house washing.

Yellow (15°) – Used mostly on masonry.

Green (25°) – The most commonly used, and is excellent on most surfaces including houses.

White (40°) – Best used on wood surfaces.

Black (Chemical Tip) – Mostly used on low pressure to apply chemicals.

These color-coded tips can be bought in various orifice sizes (such as #5, etc.).

To determine the orifice size, use the chart found on the next page. In that chart, you will find that if you have a 3000 PSI pressure washer that puts out 4 gallons per minute, you should use a 4.5 tip size.

Stepping up to a larger size reduces the pressure. Stepping down a size increases the pressure (and reduces the GPM). Never drop below the nozzle size recommended for your machine. This can be dangerous and can damage the machine.

This can all seem like higher math, but the chart makes it simple. Cut out a copy of the chart and pin it to a wall in your shop area. With a highlighter, mark the column under the pressure output of your machine. Now highlight the row with the GPM output of your machine. You will see the orifice size that you should use. A 3000 PSI machine that puts out 4 GPM should use a 4.5 orifice tip size. If you wanted a 25º tip for this 3000 PSI machine, you would buy a 25045 or a Green 4.5.

Surface Cleaners – Surface cleaners were originally designed with flatwork in mind, but several manufacturers have developed versions that are made to be used as wall washers. These are smaller, hand-held units that may have vacuum connections for capturing the used wash water.

Hoses – The best recommendation here is to use non-marking (non-black) hoses. It is helpful to have both 50 and 100-foot lengths. Remember the longer the pressure hose the lower the pressure output. You may lose as much as 30 PSI for every 100 feet of hose. Make sure you have enough GPM to operate, too. One way to test how much water flow you have at the job is to time the filling of a 5-gallon pail. If it takes less than a minute to fill the pail, you have more than 5 GPM available.

Ladders – Make sure your ladders are safe. Check weight ratings and OSHA approval stickers.

Fiberglass ladders are the strongest (and also the heaviest). Aluminum ladders are a risk because of overhead wires.

An assortment of styles and sizes is good to have. A 6 and 10-foot stepladder and 16 and 24-foot extension ladders are all you need for most jobs. Consider using lifts and harnesses as needed for higher areas and safety reasons.

Tarps – It seems you can never have too many of these either. An assortment of tarps is ideal, such as canvas, paper, and rolls of plastic for masking. Remember not to use plastic on plants and vegetation. Be sure that heavy tarps, when placed over landscape plants, have supports to avoid damaging the plants underneath (or breaking them).

Brushes – It is important to have a variety of different type and size brushes. You will need soft bristle brushes for more gentle cleaning like vinyl siding. You will want to have a nylon bristle brush for more aggressive cleaning like masonry. You can get different length handle brushes for different applications. You will also find brushes with threaded ends to fit different size poles and extension poles.

Sprayers and Chemical Applicators – There are many different types and models for chemical applications. Some are not appropriate in certain situations for safety reasons. What one is comfortable with is usually what works best. There are pump-up sprayers, powered sprayers (usually a piston or diaphragm type pump), injectors, etc. that can be used. Proper care and cleaning of this equipment will save you money in the long run. Nothing is more frustrating than a clogged or broken sprayer. When using chemical in a sprayer you should have one sprayer for one use and clearly marked. If you use squirt bottles these also need to be marked with their contents. This is an OSHA requirement.

X-Jet – This is an “external” injection system designed to deliver cleaners to surfaces up to 40’ away. It is referred to as external injection because no cleaner goes through any part of your equipment. Very popular for house washing, but only suitable when used with strong “touchless” style cleaners.

Shooter Tips – Designed to shoot a long stream. Ideal for use with your downstream injector.

Extension Cords – Be sure to have heavy duty extension cords to be able to run the equipment you are using.

Turbo Nozzles – The rotating nozzle gives cleaning impact like a zero degree spray nozzle, but the cleaning width of a fan spray nozzle. This accessory rotates a 0° jet stream in a circular pattern at thousands of RPMs, increasing effective cleaning power by up to 50%. It is a huge time saver and can be very effective in certain situations. These nozzles can cause damage and should be used with caution. Ideal applications include concrete, specifically around curbs and in conjunction with a surface cleaner. This is also an excellent nozzle to use on some masonry surfaces. This nozzle can be used for paint preparation on aluminum or vinyl siding, but a “safe” distance away from the surface is recommended. In this application the turbo nozzle merely cleans a larger area thus saving time. You do not want to use too much pressure to cause damage nor use too much water that may find its way behind the siding causing damage.

Additional Equipment – Job circumstances may require you to use additional equipment such as scaffolding or man-lifts for unusual jobs. It is normal to pass the cost of renting unusual equipment directly to the customer.

TYPICAL EQUIPMENT LIST

1) Pressure Washer

2) Wands

3) Tips

4) Pressure Washing Hoses

5) Garden Hoses

6) Ladders (Assorted)

7) Tarps (Assorted Types and Sizes)

8) Brushes

9) Chemical Sprayer or Applicator

10) Telescoping Wand(s)

11) External injection tool (optional)

12) Buckets (1 gallon and 5 gallon)

13) Extension Cord

14) Gas Can

15) Rags

16) Safety Equipment (Glasses, Respirators, Gloves, Etc.)

17) Basic Tools (Hammer, Punches, Cordless Drill, Etc.)

18) Brooms and Leaf Blower

19) Chemicals

20) Yard Sign

21) Cleaning Products (Window Cleaner, Thinner, Mineral Spirits, Etc.)

22) Surface Cleaner

[commercial-restorations]

TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEMS BEFORE POWER WASHING – PART 2

In our previous blog post about power wash troubleshooting process, we have explained how to troubleshoot problems like algae, mold, mildew, rust stains, bird excrement and artillery fungus. In this post, we would explain some more problems which should be solved for better results.

Acid Rain Stains – Acid rain stains are left behind by mineral laden, polluted rain. When this rain dries on the surface the mineral residue is left behind causing dark-colored drip marks. A good surfactant with a cloth, pad, or soft bristle brush is very effective for cleaning these stains. Do not guarantee any final result to the customer as the outcome will vary depending on how long the stain has been there and the quality of the surface the stains are on. These stains are very prominent on gutters.

There are “touchless” cleaners designed for surfaces like factory-painted gutters. These are usually made with butyl or an alkaline “action chemical” like sodium or potassium hydroxide. These cleaners can be a little tricky to use, but they will usually take off most of these stains without any hand-scrubbing.

Oxidation – Oxidation (chalking) is defined as any chemical reaction that is a combination of a metal with a gas. Oxidation is the transfer of electrons from the metal to the gas. This leaves a chalky residue on the siding that will dull the exterior of the surface. Keeping the surfaces clean will help keep the oxidation from forming. Extreme caution should be used when cleaning oxidized surfaces.

Many times these surfaces will need to be cleaned, primed, and painted to look good again. It is very important to inform the customer prior to cleaning about the potential outcome and to discuss the next course of action.

Cleaning heavily oxidized siding will leave streaks and striping that is very unsightly.

It is recommended to apply the primer and paint as soon after washing as possible to avoid coatings issues.

Efflorescence – Efflorescence is a white crystal like or powdery deposit on masonry materials like brick, concrete, etc. caused by water seeping through the substrate. Water carries mineral salts to the surface where it is deposited as the water evaporates. In many cases efflorescence will stop on its own.

When it needs to be removed an acid-based cleaner is often used. Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is the common ingredient. It can be extremely harmful to soft tissue and proper safety and caution should be exercised.

First wet the surface and apply a 1 part acid 12 parts water solution to the surface. Agitate as necessary and rinse thoroughly.

Egg Stains – Egg stains are caused by mischievous kids, usually on October 30th. The best way to get rid of these stains is to clean them as soon as they occur. These stains should be treated before washing the entire structure. A simple and quick way to clean egg off most surfaces is to use a solution made up of 50/50 vinegar and warm water. If this does not work then you will need a stronger detergent, and we would recommend trying a butyl-based cleaner or an enzyme-based cleaner. Be careful on some surfaces with some cleaners as you do not want to remove paint or discolor the surface in any way. The results you get with cleaning will depend on how long the stain has aged on the surface. Eggs often will lift the paint off a surface if left on too long.

Spider Webs – Spider webs usually require a pole and/or a rag to remove. Webs usually survive a 3500 PSI blast from a power washer.

Tape Residue – Tape residue is often found on surfaces where signs or decorations were in use. Pressure washing has little effect on these marks. A good citric-based cleaner and a soft cloth are very effective in removing the residue. If there is an extreme amount of tape residue, solvent-based cleaners can be effective for melting the gluey substance.

Caution: use extreme care when using any solvent-based cleaner on any substrate or surface. It can remove paint and/or leave the area appearing worse than when you started.

Tree Sap – Tree sap is a very stubborn stain that would take entirely too much pressure to remove without aid. The best recommendations to use for cleaning sap are raw linseed oil, mineral spirits, turpentine, or automotive bug and tar remover. A stiff scrub brush may help. Once the stains are removed, you should do a cleaning with a detergent and cloth.

[commercial-restorations]

TROUBLESHOOTING PROBLEMS BEFORE POWER WASHING – PART 1

There are some important things that you need to check before starting power wasshing process. We have listed some of them in this blog and few more would be covered in another blog.

Algae, Mold, and Mildew – Molds are fungi that grow on surfaces and aid in the deterioration of building materials. Mold’s role in the environment is to break down dead organic matter such as leaves and trees. Mold needs water and moisture to grow. Mold reproduces by way of tiny spores that float through the air. For mold and mildew to grow on surfaces they will need a temperature range between 40 degrees and 100 degrees, nutrients, and moisture. Mold and mildew can cause health concerns as well. Molds produce allergens, irritants, and even potentially toxic substances. In some communities a “Certificate of Occupancy” is not granted to a new homeowner until remediation of exterior mold and mildew has occurred. One way to minimize growth is to keep plants and trees away from the exterior surfaces to allow good air flow and to allow the surfaces to dry. Mold and mildew are easiest to clean with a solution that includes a detergent and sodium hypochlorite. Rust Stains – Rust stains on a house usually come from the water supply. We run into rust stains so often because many homes and businesses have sprinkler systems using water with some iron content. Removing the stain will not remove the problem. The problem can only be remedied by the use of an iron filter. The best recommendation is to use a product containing acid to remove the stain. Avoid using a straight acid, as this attacks the masonry as well as the rust stain without allowing the rust to lift from the surface and wash away. Use an acid-based cleaner instead. Apply the cleaner, allow it to dwell, and then use pressure to agitate the surface and rinse the rust away.

Note: Sodium hypochlorite will often set stains. If you have a rust stain, for example, it is important to remove the rust stain before applying a cleaning solution to the entire structure. This procedure will give you the most optimal result. Always remember to treat all stains first.

Bird Excrement – Stains from bird excrement can be removed with any good cleaner. Depending on the stain, it may also require some agitation to remove. Sometimes bird excrement contains staining elements of nearby berries, and these can be the most difficult to remove.

 Artillery Fungus – Artillery fungus is also often referred to as shotgun fungus. Artillery fungus is a wood decay fungus that is prominent in wood-chip mulch that is used in landscaping.

Sooner or later most of you will run into Artillery Fungus (groupings of little black specks that stick ferociously onto every surface they hit). They appear most often on light-colored house siding, but can also appear on windows, decks, cars, and other surfaces around the house.

The culprit is a fungus that thrives on the decomposition of natural landscape mulches. It grows in sunny, moist areas where there is organic, decaying mulch such as pine straw. The ideal material for this growth is bark mulch.

Sphaerobolus (commonly called either “artillery fungus” or “sphere thrower” fungus) forcibly ejects a peridiole (or speck) from the body of the fungi for a considerable distance. Peridioles can be projected vertically for more than 6 ft and horizontally for over 20 ft. As with most fungi, growth is influenced by temperature, light, and moisture. When temperatures range between 50°F and 68°F and moisture levels are adequate, the fungus produces fruiting bodies. These structures usually form on the material (bark, dung, or decaying plant material) in autumn and spring and are quite small (approximately 1/10 inch in diameter). Because of their size, they are often very difficult to find in the mulch although areas supporting growth of the fungus may appear matted or gray and somewhat bleached in color. As the fruiting structures mature, they usually remain active or “shoot” for approximately 2-3 weeks. Adequate light and moisture are also necessary for ejection or discharge of the peridiole. This process creates enough force (1/10,000 horsepower) to propel the peridioles into the air. This ejection process is phototropic (the peridioles are projected toward the light). The peridioles are typically quite sticky and, since they are forcibly ejected, they readily adhere to objects upon which they make impact. When the peridioles dry, they become very difficult to remove. Unfortunately, Sphaerobolus can be long-lived and peridioles have been found to still be viable for up to 12 years. Peridioles can also be naturally dispersed by wind or over great distances on plant debris, mulch, animal fur, and even animal dung.

Traditional house-washing chemicals aren’t very successful at removing these specks. The only effective method for cleaning these spores off of house surfaces is 1) to get to the spots within three weeks of emergence; and 2) using Artillery Fungus And Spore Remover with high water temperatures and approximately 2,500 PSI (possibly accompanied by scrubbing with a stiff brush).

NOTE: The number of spore spots that can be removed decreases dramatically in proportion to the time it has been adhered to the siding.

Preventing further outbreaks is the best way to deal with this problem. Once the Artillery Fungus has made an appearance, homeowners should completely remove all bark and hardwood mulch from around the home. This includes removing the topsoil from the mulch bed, as the spores can still grow in the soil, and replacing it with non-organic matter, such as decorative stone or rubber mulch products.

Caution during the cleaning process is necessary. Beyond the potential for damaging the surface you are cleaning, scraping the specks off and allowing them to land in a medium such as soil may set the stage for these spores to re-grow and start the cycle all over again.