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  Haute couture ss18 fashion week came and left like a thief in the night. Its presence was swift but left a definite impact. This past week showcased stunning, as well as varied interpretations of Haute Couture that is challenging and equally refreshing. For me, this particular Haute Couture collection was earmarked by a controversy that has tainted my perception of the fashion industry much further.

One of my favourite Haute Couture designers, Ulyana Sergeenko that I have written about with much enthusiasm came under fire by many inside and outside of the fashion industry for sending the well-known entrepreneur Miroslava Duma, who is also the founder of the digital company Buro 24/7, an invitation to her Haute Couture presentation. Ms Duma posted this invitation that read, “To my Niggas in Paris” and punctuated this by a heart emoji on her Instagram story. For the obvious reasons, this upset a lot of people and to make things worse, ill-advised apologies were issued by both parties.

For anyone that still may be confused by the ruckus that transpired due this infamous invitation, it is not okay in any context or stretch of the imagination for white people to use the N-word. In 2018, most of us that are educated, have a TV or are socially apt have a working knowledge of black slavery, however basic. During this period of slavery, post slavery and to date, the N-word is used to dehumanise, as well as justify inhumane treatment of black people. It is mind blowing that with knowledge of this, any white person in current times would want to use that word. If I knew that my kind or kin weaponised a word against a group of people, whether past or present, why on earth would I want to breathe life into such a wretched and cruel thing? Rap Music or dialogue amongst blacks or between blacks is neither a green light or justification to use the N-word. Whether Black people should use the N-word is a valid conversation in and of itself, but for now, let this incident draw a distinct and deep line and that is, for White people it is off limits.

In spite of this, the show certainly did go on and Haute Couture fashion week delivered its usual hits, misses and in betweens. You have the heavy hitters like Valentino, Chanel and Giambattista Valli that have the pulling powers that attract the most elite to their front rows and take centre stage. However, in this review, I will shift the focus to some of the designers that wield as much innovation, creativity and glamour but remain in the fringes of the Haute Couture conversation.

Maison Margiela

This collection is an absolute deviation from the usual pomp and circumstance that is known to align itself with Haute Couture. This deceptively dark collection was transformed instantaneously by the camera lens to expose Hi- Visibility rainbow mac coats and layered ensembles. I love that element of surprise that is unavoidable in the age of the camera phone. This anti-glamour campaign was administered through chunky footwear, skull caps, unconventional materials and deconstructed layering.

This collection is cemented in relaxed fits that engages in varied textures from sheer Plastic corsets and tiled skirts, thick embroidered wools, as well as sheer tulle layers. The sportswear sentiments in this collection separate Margiela from its more glamourous counterparts and is another step away from Haute Couture’s more classical offerings. Haute couture is assuming younger audiences, so the landscape has understandable changed. This collection is exciting to me, as it signifies the possibilities for innovation and creativity that is always needed to ensure that high fashion remains flavoursome and avoids the stiff bones that can make the whole scene antiquated.

  Iris Van Herpen

This is another designer that has created a lane that is distinct and escapes the traditional forms of Haute Couture. My awareness of Van Herpen was forged with the water dress that went viral online.

The 3D silhouette was dynamic, ethereal and this piece quickly had Van Herpen marked as a designer to watch. Van Herpen  employs a very technical approach to her use of fabrication that is an adulation to fashion in a technical age. She uses 3D printing to produce gradient patterns and laser cutting fine fabrics to create detail that is precise. Van Herpen coined this collection, “Ludi Nature”, (Ludi means play in Latin) which speaks eloquently of the way some of her pieces take on a skin like quality that mimics underwater jellyfish. The 3D element of her designs reflect nature in its transformative and blossoming state.

Van Herpen’s highly technical offerings limits the quantity of looks that she produces, compared to other collections but she makes up for this through the detail and energy exerted into each piece. Though these pieces may not be the obvious choice for the red carpet, events like the Met Gala would be amiss not feature such serious and thoughtful fashion. Full of editorial possibilities, Van Herpen is creating a challenge for the landscape of Haute Couture in a brilliant way.

  Rani Zakhem

Lebanese Designers have a knack for creating glamourous dresses and Zakhem ensured that he upheld this reputation. This collection is Vibrant, sexy and accessible. These pieces feel more like ready to wear than Haute Couture, but I like Alexandre Vauthier, and Ralph & Russo, it is becoming more evident that designs are cleverly mirroring changing markets. The Haute Couture market is growing and so is its younger clientele.

Rani Zakhem ss18

Zahkeem silhouettes are not grandiose, but are strikingly simple and have bucket loads of red Carpet and editorial appeal. Celebratory of the female form, this collection plays with vivid golds and canary yellows. There is also the element of Razzle Dazzle that comes through in the sparkling tassel dresses that are very Cher-esque and one can easily venture that stylists will be clamouring over these.

I love the pieces that are embellished, because they are impactful yet show restraint. One of my favourite pieces is a simple sateen finish mini dress that is 90s on top and 80s at the bottom. This is a dress that has classic appeal and can be pulled out in years to come and still sizzle.

  Guo Pei

Legend of the Dragon Collection

This was my first glimpse of Guo Pei as a designer. About 6 years ago, scrolling through my Tumblr, I came across this dress, that is quite literally breath taking. The structure, romance and ethereal quality draws you in and has made Pei a designer to reckon with. There is certainly an element of costume that can emerge in her designs, but this does not disturb the integrity of craftsmanship that sings in each piece. She is unabashed with glorifying in her Chinese heritage and her designs take on imperialistic nuances that make her designs recognisable. Pei’s designs in the landscape of Haute Couture is refreshing and injects some much needed diversity.

Guo Pei ss18

Rihanna’s 2015 Met Gala Red Carpet moment was curtesy of Pei and has left a lasting impression. Those in the know, understand the sheer feat that is the yellow robe and those that don’t know have turned it into every variation of pizza or omelette known to man, but either way, it broke the internet.

Haute Couture SS18 Haute couture ss18 fashion week came and left like a thief in the night. Its presence was swift but left a definite impact.

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It's a Judgy Wudgy World out there!

The judgement here implies that sexiness precludes women from being good mothers and perhaps from being intelligent or decent.

Last summer, I was out with my sister early in the evening. It was a beautiful day as far as London summers go and we spotted a young woman walking towards us in a tangerine coloured playsuit. It was short in length, her legs were toned and sung in their shapely strides. Her makeup was blended to filter like perfection, her hair was immaculately pressed flat and she wore these wedge heels that…

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Me Too. Me Three.

This conversation is comical to me now and with the boldness the years have given me, today I would have promptly directed him to go and have sex with himself.

Bill Cosby was the warning smoke to the proverbial volcano I aptly coined, The Weinstein. Since the eruption of scandal that occurred late last year, there has been a steady flow of women coming forward to report the compromising, degrading and out right cruel Sexual perversions they have encountered in their careers. This has led me to draw a simple conclusion. Men, fundamentally do not respect…

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What I'm saying Hello to in 2018.

What I’m saying Hello to in 2018.

Let’s face it, New Year Resolutions are Passé and framing the year ahead with what you are not going to do, isn’t the best springboard. As the New Year snuck up on me like loud burglar, I asked myself a very simple question that I finally have given myself permission to ask and that is, “want do you want?” This may seem like a simple enough question, but for someone like me, it is pretty loaded.…

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Maria Borges photographed by Damon Baker for Madame Figaro December 2017

Stylist: Cecile Martin Hair: Oliver Lebrun Makeup: Mayia Alleavme

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Mayowa Nicholas photographed by Tanya & Zhenya for WSJ. Magazine December 2017

Stylist: David Thielebeule Hair: Fernando Torrent Makeup: Cyndle Komarovski

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Unia Pakhomova photographed by Nicolai Howalt for Helmut Lang Spring Summer 2018

Stylist: Isabella Burley Hair: Holli Smith Makeup: Inge Grognard

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Justine Asset by Greta Ilieva | Revue F/W 2017

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more like this ♡

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Kim Yi Hyun by Zoo Young Gyun for Dazed and Confused Korea Nov 2017 

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Naomi Campbell photographed by Cuneyt Akeroglu for S Moda January 2018

Stylist: Natalia Bengoechea Hair: Ro Morgan Makeup: Alex Babsky

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