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Ben's Long Branch Bar-B-Que - Ben Wash

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Who is Ben Wash?

Ben Wash was born in Mississippi and began cooking when he was as little as seven years old. Ben Wash moved to Austin in the 1970’s as a teenager and was first introduced to barbecuing by his friends who barbecued in their backyard frequently. He hung around them enough to learn how to barbecue himself that lead him to open up his business later in life. Up to now, he believes that he still has not learned to barbecue as well as they did. He was known to have a very positive energy that showed in his personality and his food. Ben took pride in being a part of the African American community of East Austin and tried his hardest to keep his business alive until it was unfortunately shut down.

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What do people say about Ben’s Longbranch BBQ?

“Ben's is one of the better places in town. and every time the owner is there he always comes and sits and chats with us, really seems to appreciate our business.” -GakFoo 

“Awesome. Authentic, perfect taste, friendly folks- best sausage on the east side. great brisket too. Lots of Capitol officials, right along with the locals. I have never been dissatisfied.” -Vidor h.

“As good of bbq you are going to find in Austin - without driving to Lockhart! The service here is great and the ambiance is exactly what you would expect of an authentic Texas bbq joint - laid back and bit rough around the edges. The ribs here are the true standouts but the brisket is great, too.” -Shannon F.

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Description of Site

Ben’s Longbranch Barbecue was located in the heart of East Austin near 11th street. Some of the establishments surrounding this site include the Texas State Cemetery, the African American Cultural & Heritage Facility, and numerous murals depicting different aspects of African American culture. We were excited to be able to eat there and take in the history and significance of this site, but unfortunately, we found out through research that it was closed down. Through the rough times of gentrification happening in East Austin, Ben’s Longbranch BBQ became a contested site when it was replaced by Franklin’s Barbecue. During this time, many African Americans of East Austin were being driven out by the white population that were becoming interested in the area. We planned on having lunch at the new restaurant instead to try and get a better idea of why it might be contested but quickly came to the realization that it, too, was closed down temporarily due to a fire that occurred in late August and is now under construction.

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Franklin Barbecue experienced a fire in late august due to a barbecue incident. 

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Historical Context

-Ben’s Longbranch BBQ began operation in Ben’s garage when he was 27 years old. Later, the establishment officially opened in 1971 in a Western inspired building in the heart of East Austin at 900 E 11th St.

-Because East Austin was heavily populated by African Americans, the main source of customers were the African Americans that lived there and visitors from outside that came to enjoy the barbecue.

-Ben’s Longbranch BBQ served as a soul food restaurant to bring people great barbecue from a chef that puts as much love into his cooking as he does to his family. People loved going to get another bite of the deliciously cooked meats as well as talking to the welcoming and loving chef and owner behind it all: Ben Wash.

-African Americans had served barbecue at this site since at least the 1960s

-11th street served as a corridor for black commerce and social life during the era of segregation until it went downhill economically leading residents and local businesses to flee elsewhere.

-The area was declared a slum in 1997, allowing it to qualify for community development block grants from the US Department of Housing and Urban Development. The development of East Austin focused heavily on East eleventh street because it is one of the only two downtown streets that bridge I-35, which meant integrating it into downtown commercialism and “ New Urbanism” would be less challenging. This is the main reason the area has experienced significant demographic shifts from minorities to middle class whites.

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Map of the City of Austin 1928 plan, which drove the developmental and social change in East Eleventh Street.

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Investors and Supporters

Ben Wash’s mother was the first to support his business. With a bank loan of $500, Ben Wash was fortunate enough to have the means to start up his restaurant. Of course, the establishment wouldn’t have been able to survive and thrive without its loving and eager customers.

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Ben Wash hard at work in his successful restaurant. 

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Reaction of Supporters

Some of the long time customers were upset because this African-American owned business was now being replaced by a white owner. Franklin’s BBQ customers on the other hand, have been really pleased with the food and service that Franklin’s provides. This is seen by the long lines and the success the business has acquired.

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Ben’s Longbranch Barbecue before it was permanently closed.  

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What They Want Done

The customers and supporters of Ben’s want the restaurant to be reopened and the area to reclaim its history and culture because it was an important historical symbol that has now become another example of middle to upper class whites taking advantage of the rich culture and convenient location of lower class communities and driving out their people.

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Every day a long line of hungry barbecue fans spirals around Franklin Barbecue.  

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Resolution?

The controversy of Ben’s Longbranch Barbecue may never be resolved because the restaurant is already closed, and the stigma around this important piece of African American history being replaced by a white owned business cannot be reversed. If anything the controversy will only increase with the continuous development and multiple use zoning of East Eleventh Street. We believe Franklin’s Barbecue will continue to be contested as long as the African American community is surrounding it and upon reopening could face protests from the community. Although it is the physical restaurant that is being contested, the real fight is against gentrification, new urbanism, and multiple use zoning of lower class communities.

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The discussion of the gentrification of the East side of Austin will continue to develop as new urbanization takes over the area.