beckywarrencapehorn2020

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

MONDAY, FEBRUARY 10 (I think), 2020 — BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA. That embroidered symbol on the back of an Argentine bus seat tells it all. We are still in South America, but we're en route to the U.S.A.

This morning, we checked out of our stateroom — our home for the past 17 days — and departed our cruise ship for the last time. Sad and glad, both at once.

We took a tour of an interesting area outside the city of Buenos Aires called the Tigre Delta. It is a collection of over 3,000 islands formed by silt carried by the Paraná River as it winds its way across Argentina from the Andes. That silt makes the river water brown. People have built homes on these islands, but there are no bridges — none — so those homes are cut off from a lot of normal stuff. There's a “supermarket boat" (see photo) that cruises among the islands. If you need something, hang an empty grocery bag at the end of your dock, and the boat will stop and sell you what you need. There's also an ice cream boat. And a garbage boat. You get the idea.

I'm a sucker for a cathedral (is it sacrilegious to say that?), so I was pleased when we stopped at the Cathedral of San Isidro. It got a good cleaning for its 300th anniversary, so it looks brand new. Our guide advised us that the interior was very plain, but I found it beautiful.

With our little remaining time, we decided to have one more traditional Argentine meal. We found a place called Las Nazarenas, which fit the bill nicely. It's a cozy place with a wood cooking fire in the front. Argentina, of course, is known for its beef. So we each ordered a "small" steak. Apparently the Argentine language has no word for "small"! And see those potatoes (patas rusticas) on the plate? That's about 1/4 of the spuds that came as a side. We also had a couple of glasses of Argentine wine (Malbec). And the final bill was shockingly low!The only thing left on this trip is to get to the airport and fly home. That will feel really good. We've enjoyed this trip, but we love home more.

So on this, our final day of traveling in and around South America, I can say honestly once again... it's been a good day.

(As always, click on the pics to see them better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 9, 2020 — BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA. A day in Buenos Aires. And what a day it has been!

We started with a general tour of this beautiful city. We were struck by the number of parks, and the monuments in those parks. One of our favorites was "El Abuelo Inmortal," "The Immortal Grandfather," showing General José de San Martin with his two granddaughters on his lap.

Eva Peron is a huge presence in Argentina, even 68 years after her death. She was adored by the Argentine people. We went to Recoleta Cemetery, where the above-ground tombs are arranged like streets. Eva Peron is buried here, in the Duarte tomb with her parents. Even now, there are always flowers for her there from the people. Juan and Evita Peron lived in the palace of the presidential family (like the White House, but pink). From one of the balconies, Evita gave a speech, heard by millions of Argentinians, which, in the musical, became the song "Don't Cry For Me, Argentina." She died of cancer at age 33.

We then visited the area of Buenos Aires called La Boca. There is a very colorful, lively area there called Caminito. It's like a permanent art festival. There we saw young boys engaged in one of Argentina's passions, futbol.

Then we struck off on our own to visit perhaps the most amazing bookstore in the world, El Ateneo Grand Splendid. It is in an old theater, and it is beautiful! We also had lunch at a little neighborhood place called Cumaná. It was great.

Our day ended with an unexpected splash. The ship had scheduled a tango performance in the theater. We thought, "Sure, why not?” Well, it was spectacular! Astonishing! What a way to end this cruise!

Yes, this is the end of the cruise. Tonight we put our packed bags out in the hall to be collected and transferred to shore. We have one more excursion tomorrow. Tomorrow night, we board the plane to fly home.

This cruise has had its pluses and minuses. But here, at the end, there is no question that it's been a great experience.

And there is also no question that... it's been a good day.

(As always, click on the pics to see them better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2020 — MONTIVIDEO, URUGUAY. Becky and I went separate directions today. She needed a quiet, slow day. So she took her time this morning, had a leisurely breakfast, then went into the town to visit the local market and enjoy the day at her own pace. Because I was not there, I have no pictures from her day.

I went on our scheduled tour of the city, where we learned some of the local history, especially the story of the Uruguayan hero named Artigas.

Then we went to visit a local cattle ranch. It was really fun and enjoyable. It's a family ranch, and there were three generations of the family there to show us around. We got a tour of the 3,500-acre ranch — some of us on hay wagons and some in a horse-drawn buggy (driven by a hunky gaucho). We were then treated to an authentic ranch barbecue, followed by a spectacular show of traditional folk dancing. Those who wanted to got to try milking a cow. (No, I did not.) And we ended our visit by witnessing the breathtaking spirit of the ranch's Arabian horses.

We are now back in our room. Tomorrow we will be in Buenos Aires. And tomorrow night, we will need to pack our bags for home.

But that's tomorrow. For today... well, it's been a good day.

(Click the pics to see them better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 7, 2020 — ON OUR WAY TO URUGUAY.

There comes a day in every trip when our minds and hearts turn toward home. Today was that day. We started talking about packing. And flights. And getting our mail. About being back where we really belong.

Oh, this cruise isn't over! Not at all! Tomorrow we will spend the day on a ranch in Uruguay. And after that, we will have a couple of days to explore Buenos Aires. So we still have things to look forward to on this cruise.

But we also look forward to being home. And that's a good thing.

We were on the ship all day today, at sea on our way north along the Argentine coast. We did laundry. And crosswords. And we looked out at the vast, amazing ocean. A quiet day, with not much to tell about or take pictures of.

But the day ended well. In fact, it ended great! The singers on the ship did a Beatles show, and it was wonderful. So wonderful, in fact, that we sat through both performances. Four very talented vocalists singing the best music in the world.

So, it's time to turn out the light on the day. We have new things to see and learn tomorrow. For now, as always, it's been a good day.

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

THURSDAY, FEBRUARY 6, 2020 — AT SEA OFF THE COAST OF ARGENTINA. Well, we're getting kind of a rough ride today. Nothing dangerous, mind you. But being on the ship feels like being in a minor earthquake that doesn’t stop. In his daily announcements, our good-natured Norwegian captain told us that the waves are at 15 feet, and the wind speed is equal to one-fourth of a hurricane. Again, not dangerous. Just, um, interesting.

On days when we do not have a port stop, there are extra activities on the ship. We decided to go to a showing of the new film "Joker" starring Joaquin Phoenix. I lasted about 20 minutes. Too disturbing for me. Becky stayed, and she told me later that I'd made the right choice, though she's glad to have seen it.

In other news, today Becky and I celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary. Boy, have those years flown by! This cruise is kind of a celebration of that milestone. And to mark the actual day, we had dinner at Manfredi's, the Italian restaurant on the ship. The restaurant is on Deck 1, closest to the water. And we had a table by the window. So we got to see some of those big honkin' waves up close and personal! It was kinda dramatic.

We are now back in our room. The sea has calmed a little. I think we should have a fairly peaceful night. Tomorrow is another day at sea, before we reach Montevideo, Uruguay, on Saturday.

And so, roiling seas notwithstanding, it's been a really good day.

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 5, 2020 — PUERTO MADRYN, ARGENTINA. Today was penguin day! And it was wonderful.

Well, not all wonderful, I must confess. We had to ride two-and-half hours on a bus on a two-lane road across the scrubby Argentine desert to get there. But once we arrived, what fun!

These are Magellanic penguins. They are the subspecies that were "discovered" by our friend from earlier in the cruise, Ferdinand Magellan. They typically mate for life and produce two eggs per year. We saw lots of youngsters, still covered with their soft gray down, or in the process of shedding it. Just look at that little guy peering out from the family nest. What a cutie! These penguins nest under the desert shrubs, or even in open holes in the ground. They make the long trek (about 1/4 mile for some that we saw) to the sea to get food, then march back to the nest to share that food with the kids. There are about 6,000 adults in this colony, and the young ones bring the total number up near 10,000. And they live side-by-side with the local llamas, which are called guanacos by the Argentinians.

So it was a great day, but a long day. Then, the best parts of the day were reaffirmed as we sat in the Explorer Lounge after dinner. Outside we saw a little section of rainbow. Then, as we watched, it became a double rainbow, and grew bigger, and brighter, and more breathtaking.

No doubt about it — it's been a very good day.

(Click on the pictures to see these adorable penguins even better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

TUESDAY, FEBRUARY 4, 2020 — SOMEWHERE IN THE ATLANTIC. This is a picture of an albatross. An albatross is a very large bird, one of the largest in the world. He and his friends have been our constant companions on this cruise. It is fascinating to watch them, as they glide rapidly over the surface of the ocean, looking for food.

An albatross can fly over the water for over two months without landing. They sleep while they fly, but only in ten-second bursts, and with only half their brains at a time.

We have felt a little like the albatross in recent days. Because our stop in the Falklands was canceled because of weather, we have not been off the ship for four days. I feel like I'm functioning on half a brain, as we glide endlessly over the ocean.

But tomorrow will be better. Tomorrow will be 72 degrees and sunny. We will get off the ship and go cavorting with penguins. That's the plan. But... well... we'll see.

For now, today has been a good, though very looooong, day.

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

MONDAY, FEBRUARY 3, 2020 — SOMEWHERE IN THE ATLANTIC. We had a disappointment this morning when we learned that we would not go ashore on the Falkland Islands. As you can see in the photo, the wind and waves made it much too dangerous.

So, how do you dispel disappointment? Food and music!

The food photos are not just from today, of course. These are some of the meals we've enjoyed on the ship so far. As you can see, we are being treated very well.

This evening, the Viking Vocalists (who did such a wonderful ABBA show a few nights ago) entertained us in fine style again. This show was called DECADES, and it featured music from the 50s, 60s, and 70s. The performers did an amazing job — especially considering that all the music was popular before any of them were even born!

As the sun was going down into the rough and foggy sea, we had a drink in the Explorer Lounge and reflected on the dedication and passion of all the people who work on this ship. Every one of them greets us with a smile each day, as they work long hours for our comfort, safety, and enjoyment.

So a day that started with disappointment became, once again, a very good day.

(As always, click on the photos to see them better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 2, 2020 — AT SEA OFF THE EAST COAST OF ARGENTINA. Since we've been at sea all day, with no interesting port stops to show you, I thought I'd give you a brief tour of our ship, the Viking Jupiter.

When we're not in our stateroom, we spend a lot of time in the Explorer Lounge, up on the 7th deck. It has great views and a nice, relaxed atmosphere. (That's Becky, third from the right.) See the piano? There are several baby grand pianos on board, all anchored securely to the floor, for obvious reasons. The ship has many resident musicians, including a cellist, a violinist, several singers, a few piano players, and André, an excellent guitar player but somewhat off-pitch singer. A sweet guy, though.

The food on board is excellent and plentiful. We have dinner each night in the main dining room, and lunch in the buffet-style cafe. There are a couple of fancier dining rooms, as well as a poolside grill and more. I won't want to get on the scale when I get home.

There are plenty of relaxing lounge areas, with quiet games and puzzles available. The pool area is sunny and inviting, though I've seen very few people using the pool. And the Winter Garden, with its tree-like columns, is a quiet area for reading (or napping).

Viking Cruises originated in Norway, and that heritage is evident on all their ships. The Viking Jupiter has a display of traditional Norwegian costumes and other artifacts. And all Viking ships have original art by Edvard Munch.

Finally, today is Super Bowl Sunday, so of course there is a viewing party on board. In the pool area, people staked out their spots hours in advance. The Pool Grill has its version of chicken wings, chips'n'salsa, and other traditional game-watching foods. They really try hard to please their passengers.

Tomorrow we reach the Falkland Islands. Everyone is eager to get off the ship. But the weather may not cooperate. So I hope that tomorrow I will be telling you that we visited a penguin rookery. For now, though it's been quiet, it's been a good day.

(As usual, click on the pics to see them better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 1, 2020 — CAPE HORN, ARGENTINA. Yesterday we were in the world's southernmost city. Today we traveled even farther south!

Every time you hear the phrase "around the Horn," you are hearing history. Before Magellan discovered his eponymous shortcut (and before that shortcut was made obsolete by the Panama Canal), merchant ships carrying goods between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans had to round the very southern tip of South America. And I mean the VERY southern tip! (Hundreds of those ships fell victim to the wind-whipped waters and sank.) The landmark for these ships was a south-facing rock formation on the southernmost island, Isla Hornos. We passed that landmark this morning, and in so doing, crossed from the Pacific Ocean into the Atlantic. You can see a photo of the Horn above. (And I can finally change the photo at the top of this blog from one I stole off the internet to one I took myself.) You can also see a map showing just how far south we were today. Fortunately, the water was uncharacteristically calm.

The rest of the day was spent at sea. And we will be at sea all day tomorrow, making our way to the Falkland Islands (a British territory that the locals still regard as the Malvinas). Tomorrow I will not have photos of exotic locales. So instead, I think I'll show you around the ship.

For now, the sky is starting to darken over the calm Atlantic. Once again, it's been a good day.

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

FRIDAY, JANUARY 31, 2020 — USHUAIA, ARGENTINA. “Bottom of the world, Ma!” Well, that's not exactly how the Cagney quote goes. And we're not exactly at the bottom of the world. But we're close! Ushuaia, Argentina, is the southernmost city in the world, nicknamed "The End Of The World." And that's where we spent our day. (That's our ship, the Viking Jupiter, in the background behind the sign.)

Becky and I went in separate directions today. She did a tour of the city of Ushuaia, which was kinda disappointing. The centerpiece of the tour was apparently an old prison. Ushuaia started out as a penal colony. So, sure, it's part of its history. But, still, kind of a downer.

I, on the other hand, had signed up for a four-hour "trek." Those of you who know me know that I'm not a "trek" kinda guy. But I was actually excited about this!

So a group of us started walking into the Tierra Mayor Nature Reserve on the island of Tierra del Fuego — across squishy peat bogs, through wooded forests, up sloping foothills. Along the way, we saw pristine waterfalls and petite wild orchids. We learned that beavers, introduced from Canada in 1949 as a money-making enterprise, have now multiplied to over 100,000 and have caused untold damage by building dams and flooding out native flora and fauna. Now, I must be honest — this trek was not fun for me. But I saw and learned some amazing things. So, I'm glad I went.

At the end of the day, Becky and I sat at dinner, at a table by the window as usual, and watched the snow-topped Andes float away behind us. We won't see them again. Our last glimpse of the “end of the world" was a navigation marker on a tiny island — the southernmost structure in the world.

Tomorrow we will "round the Horn." But we drift off to sleep tonight knowing that today was a good day.

(As always, click the pictures to see them better.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

THURSDAY, JANUARY 30, 2020 — PUNTA ARENAS, CHILE. Today, we stepped into the history books. But... I'll get to that in a minute.

If you read yesterday's entry, you may remember that we'd been warned that bad weather might change our plans for today, and that high winds might make it impossible to go ashore at all. But when I looked outside this morning, it was a beautiful, sunny, calm day. There was even a rainbow. So, no worries, right? Well... I'll get back to that in a minute.

First, back to the history books. Punta Arenas overlooks the Strait of Magellan. (And so does the statue of Ferdinand himself, which stands in the town square.) I remember learning about Magellan when I was a kid. Yet I don't think I could have told you, even a month ago, where the Strait of Magellan is. But now I can! This area is all about Magellan and how his discovery of a passage around the tip of South America changed the world. It opened up trade between East and West. This year is the 500th Anniversary of that historic voyage. There's even a replica of Magellan's ship. And inside is a duplicate of the bed he slept in, which is only about five feet long.

There's another ship here, too. The Beagle! That's right, Charles Darwin's ship! Look at the photo. Instead of a half-naked mermaid on the bow, the Beagle has... A BEAGLE!

Okay, back to that beautiful, calm morning. By the time we finished our tour of Punta Arenas and headed back to our ship, which was waiting patiently at the pier at the edge of town, the wind had picked up to over 50 mph. We weren't allowed to walk down the pier for fear that we'd be blown into the roiling waters. A shuttle had to be hastily arranged to take us to the ship.

But we are now safe in our stateroom, and the ship is underway to our next port. Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates, I'll be doing a nature hike through a National Park in Argentina. I can hardly wait!

But for now, we say a grateful goodbye to Chile. It's been a very good day.

(As always, click on the pics for a better look.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

WEDNESDAY, JANUARY 29, 2020 — AMALIA GLACIER, CHILEAN FJORDS. We have been cruising through the fjords of southwestern Chile. As you can see in the pictures above, it's like cruising among islands. Hundreds of them! And if you think about it, these islands are really mountains submerged in water. And the snow on those mountains becomes silver waterfalls trickling down into the sea. Very beautiful.

The centerpiece of our day was a stop at the Amalia Glacier. It is found within the Bernardo O'Higgins (I didn't make that up) National Park. The glacier pours over the edge of an old volcano and flows down to the sea. Being in the presence of something so old, so huge, and so endangered is a profound experience.

The rest of the day was quiet. The weather has been gray and rainy, so we have stayed in our room on the ship, napping, reading, and relaxing. But we gave ourselves permission to cut loose a bit after dinner. Though I said earlier that this is not a party boat (and it's really not), there was a show tonight of the music of ABBA, and it was great. Perfect way to end the day.

Now, as I write this at 9:30 at night, it's still quite light outside. The farther south we travel, the closer we get to the Southern Hemisphere version of the Midnight Sun. It is summer here, so it makes sense. Yet my Northern Hemisphere brain has a hard time with it.

We are told that weather may mess with our plans for tomorrow. But that's tomorrow. For now, it's been a very good day.

(Click on the photos to see them bigger.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

TUESDAY, JANUARY 28, 2020 — AT SEA IN THE CHILEAN FJORDS. No, that's not a volcano erupting. It's just a cloud over an island off the southwest coast of Chile. But the big wave and choppy waters are real. I took the photo this morning, and had a very difficult time even standing up in the wind out on the deck. (With a way, hey, blow the man down!) It will be rough sailing all day and most of the night. The captain said we are experiencing swells of 12-15 feet. That sounds alarming, but it really doesn't look that bad out there. It does make walking around the ship pretty wobbly (and pretty comical).

So, what do we do all day when there's no port stop, and even walking around is not much fun? Well, I'm doing some reading. Becky is doing some laundry. We sat in on a trivia contest. (Don't ask.) A nap (or two) is a certainty. It's actually a pretty relaxing day.

So I'm posting this blog entry early. I don't think I'll have much more to tell today, nor any more photos to show. But you can check back later if you feel like it, just to see if anything exciting happens later in the day.

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

MONDAY, JANUARY 27, 2020 — PUERTO MONTT, CHILE. This morning, before the sun rose gloriously over the South Pacific, I saw, looming over the horizon through the morning fog, two mountain peaks. I did not know then that later in the day we would be seeing those peaks up close and personal.

The Andes Mountains separate long, skinny Chile from Argentina to the east. The Andes are really an extension of the mountain ranges which meander up and down the west coast of the U.S. And all the way from north to south, the mountain ranges are sprinkled with volcanoes.

After the morning's foggy start, the sun came out and the day was splendid. We took an excursion to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park (stopping to chat with a few adorable alpacas along the way). The centerpiece of the park is Lago Todos los Santos (Lake of All the Saints). It was given its name on November 1, All Saints Day. But because copper washes down from the surrounding mountains into the lake, giving the water a distinctly green tint, none other than Teddy Roosevelt called it “Emerald Lake," and among English speakers, the name stuck.

Overlooking the lake are those very same mountains that I saw in the early morning fog, as well as one more. All three are volcanoes, and one is still relatively active. There is snow-topped Osorno (sometimes compared to Mt. Rainer), the no-topped Calbuco (aptly compared to Mt. St. Helens), and pointy-topped Pontiagudo (likened to the Matterhorn). We took a boat cruise on Emerald Lake's blue-green waters and got a closer look at all these peaks, especially Osorno. (There's another nearby mountain, which we didn't see, called Tronador, which is Spanish for "Thunderer," an ominous name for a volcano!)

On the way back, we stopped to see the rushing rapids and tumbling waterfalls of the Petrohue River as it flows over black lava rock, making its short (16 miles), picturesque journey from Emerald Lake to the Pacific. And we made a brief stop in the charming town of Puerto Varas to have a late lunch and visit the shops (and find decent wi-fi). This area of Chile was settled by Germans, and their influence is still evident in the architecture and cuisine.

And now we are back on the ship, our home away from home. As we ate dinner, the fog rolled in again, beautifully bookending the day. Tomorrow, we will be cruising the Chilean fjords. But for now, it's been a very good day.

(Click on the photos to see them bigger.)

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

SUNDAY, JANUARY 26, 2020 — AT SEA. Whenever I get to see an ocean, one of the things I like the most is actually seeing the curve of the earth at the horizon. You can see it in the photo above. (Use the edge of a sheet of paper to compare.) That's not a distortion of the camera. It's real. That curve always puts me in awe. It's a realization that, despite our day-to-day bustling about on a surface that seems flat, the science books have it right. The earth is round! I can see the proof!

We had plenty of time to look out at the ocean today, as it was a day when the ship was trying to cover distance. No port stop today. So what did we do to fill the time? Well, I went to a lecture this morning on the history of astronomy, given by a retired NASA scientist. And this afternoon, we heard a lecture on the history of Chile by a tweedy professor with a charming British accent.

So, you can tell that we're not exactly on a party boat. No water slides or disco. This is a cruise for grown-ups. In fact, compared to the mean age of the passengers, I feel like a youngster!

Being at sea all day meant that the ship has been rocking and rolling a bit. Nothing dramatic, mind you. But certainly enough to notice. And enough to make walking, and even standing, a little bit unsteady. To see our fellow passengers walking down the hallways made me wonder if they might still be under the influence of yesterday's winery visit.

We are now settling into a nice, comfortable routine on the ship. Breakfast brought to our room each morning. Dinner at a table by the window, with a waiter who knows our names. It's starting to feel like home.

And, just like at home, we go to bed early. Tomorrow will be a big day. We'll be going to a place that Teddy Roosevelt called "the most beautiful lake in the world." I can hardly wait to show it to you! See you tomorrow.

[beckywarrencapehorn2020]

SATURDAY, JANUARY 26, 2020 — VALPARAISO, CHILE. After a good, if somewhat short night (our luggage didn't arrive until after midnight, and we didn't get to sleep until about 1:30), today has been a better day. And a visit to a Chilean winery made it a MUCH better day!

We learned a couple of interesting environmental tidbits at the winery. First, because of climate change, a water well which would have been 20 meters deep in 1995, now needs to be 200 meters deep to provide enough water for the grape vines. And second, the haze hanging over the normally clear wine valley is smoke blown all the way across the Pacific Ocean from the bush fires in Australia. Who knew that a visit to a winery could be so sobering?

We also got a tour of the port city of Valparaiso. This once must have been a beautiful town, sitting as it does upon the hills looking out over a picturesque bay. But now the town is so blighted by graffiti, broken windows, and collapsing roofs that our tour was kind of a downer. Back to the winery, please!

I have never known much about politics, especially globally. I can remember hearing the names of Salvador Allende and Augusto Pinochet in the news. Both did some good and did some damage to Chile. I guess that could be said of most political leaders. So maybe what we saw in Valparaiso is the result of a history of corrupt leadership. And maybe the strikes going on now in the region are also to blame. I don't really know.

This evening we set sail southward, down the west coast of South America. We look out our window and see only the sea and the sky. Tomorrow will be a day at sea, with no stops. We are looking forward to the tranquility of the ocean.

(You may click on the pictures to see them bigger.)