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Day 50: The End! Independence, OR to Corvallis, OR 32 miles Well friends, I made it! Here's a brief summary: 3,482 miles 54 total days 50 riding days 8 states 3 timezones 2 major mountain ranges 1 wallet I averaged 70 miles on riding days, just under 65 if you include my four rest days. Over the course of the trip, I visited every home that I've had in the US, dipped a toe or wheel in the four bodies of water that feel like home to me: Lake Michigan, the Mississippi, the Puget Sound, and finally the Willamette. I am now (temporarily) at my parents' home in Corvallis, Oregon. Who knows what adventures are next? I'll continue to add post-tour thoughts on the tumblr blog as they come to me. Harder, better, faster, stronger. #bartenderonabike, #laketoshiningsea
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Day 49 Tillamook, OR to Independence, OR 83 miles I know this is a week late, but life got away from me! I started the day almost within reach of my final destination! I had breakfast at the cafe inside the Tillamook cheese factory, took a quick (and strange) self-guided tour then headed down the coast for a little more exploration before turning inland. My parents drove out and met me for lunch in Pacific City, then we headed our separate ways. My plan had been to camp part way along the highway, but the ride felt amazing, so I powered on. I got a burger at the best burger chain in the West (Burgerville!) and made it into Independence right as it was getting dark. Independence is an adorable little tourist trap on the Willamette that has a small campground only accessible to cyclists and boaters. I set up camp feeling strange: I was going to bed less than forty miles from home.
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Day 48 Astoria, OR to Tillamook, OR 66 miles As far as I'm concerned, the Oregon coast is among the most beautiful places in the world. As is so common there, the morning was ominously cloudy, but the clouds burned off into a storybook sunlit afternoon. The roads climb and fall constantly, but with the scenery it's hard not to love the ride. In the evening I camped in Tillamook, the capital of cheese in the northwest...it smelled of cows.
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Day 47 Toledo, WA to Astoria, WA 100 miles Crossing into Oregon! My plan for this day was to do a meandering ride through the hills of southern Washington towards the Columbia, follow the northern bank to the historic ferry crossing at Puget Island, then camp nearby. Halfway through the day though, I realized that after all my wandering, if I pushed on to Fort Stevens on the Oregon coast, I'd hit 100 miles on the head. I decided I wanted one more century in my bag and gunned it. The ferry was a fun and unique experience. All of $3 for a cyclist, it provided a beautiful view as I finally crossed into Oregon. I coasted through Astoria and rolled into camp right as it was starting to get dark.
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Day 46 Shelton, WA to Toledo, WA 72 miles I'm writing these last few posts in a gorgeous little cafe in Independence Oregon. As of right now I am less than 30 miles away from the end of this adventure. Feels unreal. Shelton was my last roadside motel. From there I traced my way down the valley southward towards Oregon. The weather continued to be kind. I pulled into a city park in the early evening, bought a six pack, and relaxed in my camp chair.
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Day 45 Lofall, WA to Shelton, WA 62 miles Rode this day in a bit of a daze. I passed by the aircraft carriers in Bremerton and got a few good glimpses of the water, but this was mostly forest riding.
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Day 44 Langley, WA to Lofall, WA 62 miles plus a ferry! Perfect weather and tastes of my childhood. Blackberries right off the bramble are the most comforting, homey food I know. I gorged myself as I rode back up the island to the ferry terminal to the mainland. I made a camp in a wooded State Park that charged all of $6 for cyclist camping.
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Day 43 Anacortes, WA to Langley, WA 63 miles
I spent a whole day exploring the island I grew up on, Whidbey. I visited the house I grew up in and the new owners were kind enough to give me a walkthrough. My parents had this house built when I was young, and all the memories of my childhood are from nearby.
I had forgotten how beautiful Whidbey is. I spent the night in the fairgrounds where I had visited so many petting zoos and ridden so many rides.
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This jackass keeps trying to race me... #bartenderonabike
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Day 42 Marblemount, WA to Anacortes, WA 67 miles Camp the night before was right on the river. The place was full but the owner let me set up my tent in the bushes for free. Coming out of the mountains I felt strong and a little giddy. Every pedal got me closer to the water. I stopped at my first Pacific Northwestern brewery before pushing on to the Puget Sound. It was a strange feeling to cross I5 and keep going west, but exciting to smell the sea air. I crossed a recently built pedestrian footbridge over the water to fidalgo island and pushed through the hills to Anacortes. Anacortes, WA is the beginning of the official Northern Tier Trail, the route that I've been reverse traversing, more or less, since Fargo. In some ways, it feels like a symbolic end to my trip, though I still have 500 miles to go. I guess it's the end of my journey from the Midwest, and the beginning of my reintroduction to the PNW. In a big way, from here on out I'm home. That feeling was deeply reaffirmed when, after pulling my bike right up to the water and staring out wide-eyed for probably five straight minutes, I was handed a full plate of local food and invited to chat with the huge family that was cooking out nearby. Dungeness crab, Chinook Salmon, and corn. Home for sure.
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Good words in a good place. (at Washington Pass Overlook)
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Day 41 Bicycle Barn (Winthrop, WA) to Marblemount, WA 87 miles
This is the kind of ride you live for. Washington pass in the North Cascades is challenging and shockingly beautiful while maintaining wide shoulders and frequent scenic pull-offs the whole way. With no road closures I didn’t need to start as early as I had for Logan Pass in Glacier, but i did get on the road by 7 just because I knew it would be a long day.
I took my time to enjoy the climb and ended up with energy to spare on the other side of the mountains. I put on an extra 20 miles, getting me in easy reach of the water the next day.
#laketoshiningsea #bartenderonabike (at Winlock, Washington)
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Day 40 Omak, WA to Barn Bicycle Campground near Winthrop, WA 53 miles
I took a cheap motel in Omak to do real laundry and get a proper shower. I abused the continental breakfast and put in some wrench time on my rear wheel (it needed truing), planning a short riding day before tackling the daunting Washington Pass.
This short millage day kicked my ass. Loup Loup Pass has been washed out most of the Summer so I had planned on following the route that most Eastbound cyclists I’ve met have taken which adds about 40 miles but crosses a milder mountain pass. A week ago though, the pass was reopened to alternating one way traffic and I decided to give it a shot. Not the longest pass so far, but definitely the steepest, my legs were aching halfway through.
Many sweaty hours later I arrived at the incredible accommodations provided at Barn Bicycle Camping, a cyclist only campground run out of two cyclists backyard at the edge of the north cascades. In a crazy coincidence my favorite bike mechanic from my local bike shop in Chicago happened to be at the same little oasis heading the other direction after leaving Chicago all the way back in November. Baddass.
Sad to say I was feeling exhausted and a little antisocial so I went to bed early instead of chilling with the merry band of travelers that were stopped there for the night.
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Day 39 Republic, WA to Omak, WA 68 miles
A long day with no mountains felt super doable! The beginning of some country out here and a whole new kind of pretty. Hard to complain!
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Day 38 Lake Gillette, WA to Republic, WA 78 miles
An unexpected beast of a day!
A cycle tourist friend had done Glacier to Seattle a couple years ago and had warned me about the long stretch of hot and boring desert in Eastern Washington. Due in part to that warning, I hadn’t been paying much attention to altitude gain when planning my route, assuming that at most I’d be gaining a thousand feet here and there.
Wrong!
My much more northerly route has the advantage of being occasionally unbelievably gorgeous and the disadvantage of hitting every major highway mountain pass northern Washington has to offer. 30 miles into my day I met a West - East cyclist (as 80+% are) who had just tackled Sherman Pass and was still reeling from the experience. I checked myself lest I wreck myself and discovered I was at the beginning of a hard series of mountain passes if I kept my route on the Northern Tier.
Fuck it, I thought, and tackled the pass, masochistically looking forward to the challenges to come.
Ouch.
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