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artist-and-space · 4 months
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Jessie Chen aka ziliaoshi
interview by Niki Ito // photography by Kestin Mica
Jessie Chen is a Taiwanese crochet artist who runs her own business creating unique and functional crochet pieces. This year she is focused on using sustainable materials such as fabric from old kimonos. She also runs workshops for people to experience the joy and healing of crocheting. We sat down with Jessie at her atelier in Tainan, Taiwan.
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Niki: Hi Jessie, can you please introduce yourself and talk about how you started doing your art?
Jessie: Sure, I started doing my crochet art in 2020 when we were stuck at home during COVID-19. I loved crocheting at University, but I didn’t think it would become my business. During COVID, I picked it up again, and my friends encouraged me to make various items like headbands and hats. That’s how I started my business.
Niki: Wow. So, at that time, had you graduated and were already working?
Jessie: Yes, I worked for about four years in Los Angeles.
Niki: Did the work involve art? Jessie: Yeah, actually, I worked at an art gallery sponsored by the Japanese government's Foreign Affairs department. They have three locations worldwide: London, Los Angeles, and São Paulo, Brazil. I worked at the gallery in Los Angeles. It really helped me develop my art.
I want my work to make people feel a sense of calm and healing.
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Niki: What kind of artwork did the gallery show?
Jessie: It had a wide range of mediums, such as ceramics, Kumihimo, silk braiding, visual art, and more. Japanese artists or art companies would submit proposals to the government, which picked different works each season. I enjoyed the work, and so after I moved back to Taiwan, I thought maybe I could start my own business.
Niki: That's great. How has the business developed since you began?
Jessie: It’s been going well. I’ve gained market experience and am currently developing my own website to showcase my work.
Niki: Your pictures are beautiful too. Jessie: Thank you! I love taking pictures and creating different series.
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Niki: This piece is really cool. Is it made from recycled materials?
Jessie: Yes, this piece is made from a paper company in Zhonghua, Taiwan. This year I’ve started focusing on sustainable materials.
Niki: It feels solid and strong, yet smooth and soft at the same time. 
Jessie: Yeah, exactly. That’s what I like about crocheting.
Niki: How did you become interested in sustainable materials? Jessie:  I think it’s because today's fashion is overwhelmed by fast-fashion brands like Uniqlo and others selling disposable items. I wanted to focus on materials that can be reused or repurposed, even if they’re old.
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Niki: With many of your materials, do you collaborate with companies?
Jessie: Yes, including the paper factory in Taiwan, I also use different types of cotton sourced from Taiwan and the United States. I find them myself and mix them together to create my own colors. 
Niki: Did you learn business and fashion?
Jessie: I’m currently studying both by reading books. I don’t have much background in marketing or business, so it’s challenging to push my work to the market and promote it on social media.
Niki: Do you feel like social media is a big part of marketing now? Jessie: Yes, it’s huge. People know your brand through Instagram and online presence. I also have a website and opened this studio a year ago and invited people to come over for workshops.
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I wanted to focus on materials that can be reused or repurposed, even if they’re old.
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Niki: This yarn is from Japan, right?
Jessie: Yes, it’s called Kimono Yarn, repurposed from old kimonos that could not be worn anymore and I really like the texture. I contacted the company online. This company is in Fukuoka, but I think they do a lot of pop-ups in big department stores, like in Takashimaya in Yokohama. They also have workshops. I hope I can visit them one day in person.
Niki: How did you find the company? Jessie: I follow a knit artist in Japan named Chihiro. And then at this one exhibition in Japan, she introduced this yarn in her works. I really like their work. Some of her creations use kimono yarn for many different things.
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Niki: Very cool! And then you were able to connect with the company through Instagram?
Jessie: Yeah. I was like, "Oh, I'm in Taiwan, but I really like your yarns. Can you send them to Taiwan?" And they did. 
Niki: Oh, so cool! I work at an art gallery, and we have old Japanese woodblock prints from the 19th century, with geisha, courtesans, and their kimonos. It really incorporates different fabric-making techniques, like dyeing. We've learned a bit about how they used to do it.
Jessie: Yeah, this is the tradition I want to keep. I like antiques and old things, so these kimono yarns attract me. So delicate and unique.
Niki: The ceramic collaboration is very cute, and the color is beautiful, too. 
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Jessie: It's light green. I really like green right now.
Niki: Did the fabric's color fade due to the sun, or is it naturally this color?
Jessie: It's naturally this color, but the more you use it, the lighter it will become. It's the nature of the fiber; it fades over time.
Niki: Were you planning to collaborate with the artist before you had the idea of making it?
Jessie: I had the idea, but I wasn’t sure if she’d be interested since she usually makes larger items like vases and kitchenware. This project is small and requires a lot of patience. But when I talked to her, she thought it would be a good mix, and we decided to do it. It took maybe about 3 months. We talked and then we made this.
Niki: Do you think you’ll continue exploring different materials and collaborations? Jessie: Yes, I’m always looking to try new things. This year, I plan to approach art galleries for pop-ups and explore different approaches since the craft market in Taiwan is getting a bit crowded with weekly events, whereas it used to be only once a month. People might be getting a bit too used to it. So, I’m trying different angles with my online shop and workshops.
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Jessie: This is also a new project using ribbon. I want to use it as a smell diffuser for your home, so that you can also put it in a small flower vase for decoration. I really like that it’s shiny.
Niki: Where did you get these ribbons? Jessie: I bought them online from a company in Taiwan. They were originally used in flower shops for tying up bouquets.
I did a lot but didn’t feel very happy or satisfied. So now, I’m focusing on crochet art because it really heals me
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Jessie: and this one was a part of an exhibition that I had in Taichung. I usually make functional items like phone bags, clothes, hats, and hairbands, but I wanted to create something different. So that’s why I wanted to do this crocheting artwork like this, kind of like flowers, where you can easily feel the texture of it.
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Jessie: and this is my winter collection. I call this one a mountain hat because I really like the shape of the triangle. And this one is the elf hat.
Niki: Aww, so cute! When you crochet, do you usually watch anything?
Jessie: I sometimes listen to podcasts and sometimes watch movies. I’m a big fan of Harry Potter. When I crocheted the elf hat, I was always re-watching it. 
Niki: Do you find inspiration in nature too?
Jessie: Yes, nature and watching dramas inspire me. For example, the color coordination in Korean or Japanese dramas. I get inspiration mostly from life or movies. Sometimes I just start crocheting with no specific plan for color, and the result ends up reflecting my heart flow and even the music I was listening to.
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Niki: Do you find crocheting relaxing? Jessie: Yes, it’s very relaxing and calming. I want my work to make people feel a sense of calm and healing. Even if they feel different things, it’s all okay. Because I have workshops here, I also hope this space can be not just selling my work, but have many different interactions. Right now the workshop is about using kimono yarn to make wrist straps. They can pick and mix the colors, and I'll teach them how to crochet.
Sometimes I just start crocheting with no specific plan for color, and the result ends up reflecting my heart flow and even the music I was listening to.
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Jessie: I also make pet accessories. This weekend, I’m attending a pet market in Taipei. I’ve taken pictures of my cat and my friend’s cat with the hats. I also have a dog model.
Niki: People can match hats with their pets too. That’s adorable. Jessie: Yes, creating for pets and seeing them enjoy it is fun.
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Niki: Besides Mandarin, which languages do you speak?
Jessie: I also speak Japanese and English.
Niki: How long have you been learning Japanese? Jessie: I had been interested in manga since high school and wanted to read the newest versions, so I started reading them in Japanese. I would buy the e-books online to check the latest releases. I taught myself by watching many YouTube videos, and I listened to them all the time, like when cleaning or doing chores.
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Niki: That’s impressive! What was your path in learning English?
Jessie: We had classes during elementary school where we learned the basics, like the ABCs. Then in Los Angeles, I attended English classes at a community college. The thing was just to communicate and not be afraid of making mistakes.
Niki: How did that feel?
Jessie: I wanted to communicate well with my colleagues, who were a mix of Japanese and Native English speakers. After graduating in Taiwan, I wanted to improve myself because I was an introvert and uncomfortable sharing my opinions. But in the U.S., you have to learn to be more direct when expressing yourself.
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Jessie: And I also keep some inspiring books here. When I get bored or feel lost, I check these.
Niki: What does it feel like to be lost?  Jessie: It's when my energy for work isn’t consistent. It's not like a regular 9 to 5. Some days, I can work non-stop for 10 to 12 hours, but other days, I feel down and lost. Since December, I’ve been trying new things for my brand’s third year, like extending my product series. I did a lot but didn’t feel very happy or satisfied. So now, I’m focusing on crochet art because it really heals me.
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Niki: You’ve done a lot by yourself. It’s impressive.
Jessie: Thank you! At first, I didn't think I could run my own business because I lacked marketing and social media skills. I just loved crocheting but didn’t know how to handle the other aspects. Now, I model and take pictures myself. It’s all about practice, and each time, it gets a little better.
Niki: Do you enjoy the creative freedom in your work?
Jessie: Yes, it’s fulfilling to create and manage my own business. Even though it’s challenging, seeing my work appreciated is rewarding.
Niki: That’s great. Thank you for sharing your story, Jessie. Jessie: Thank you!
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Jessie's Social Media:
Instragram: @ziliaoshi
Website: https://ziliaoshi-atelier.com/
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