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[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 31:

Today I woke up at Paraparamu Beach, about an hour north of Wellington, and after scooting out of bed I headed into town to visit the local patisserie for a treat to take on the road!

My first stop of the day was Whanganui, a 2 hour drive straight up spent chatting on the phone to Liv back home and of course some solo karaoke and classic cow mooing. Here I stopped at the beach and ate my cherry shaped cake while it rained. Just outside of town I picked up some strawberries from the local berry dealer who then offered a 2 for one deal and would throw in the alpaca (this is a made up story (to clarify there was strawberries and alpacas but no deal was suggested by a dodgy farmer))

Soon after I chose my location for the night, about another hour and a half drive would be Mt Taranaki, a dormant volcano, with a camp site right near Dawson Falls! Along with cascading falls and luscious forest, I get a pretty cool view of a volcano from my bed tonight.

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Day 20-30: Wellington:

The morning after the festival we zipped on up to Picton, a 4 and a half hour drive past Kaikoura, to catch the infamous ferry between islands.

Pulling in to the port just shy of midnight we decide to find a place for food. This lead to our first encounter of Cuba St at the cafe ‘midnight espresso’, a cute and bougie diner, and then head to the port for free camping. For the first half of the week I fell ill, however spent at least a few hours a day trying to do something such as wander the city, visit cute cafes or the Museum of New Zealand (home of the worlds largest known squid).

The second half of the week it was Jessie’s turn to be sick. Although we still made it to a show at the Ivy Bar on Cuba street Friday night where a lesbian comedian and drag queens were performing, super fun! On this same street, now nicknamed the gay street after the rainbow road, were many buskers and street performers, including this one group of about 8 high schoolers each playing an instrument. The group had the whole street stopped to listen and dance as they jammed out! I quickly ducked into Ben and Jerry’s for some necessities before joining the crowd and friends.

To end our time in Wellington we did a few days of Housesitting about 30 mins outside the city which meant a bed and bath for a few days! While looking after Zeplin and Cher (the two dogs), we also took full advantage of the oven which meant soup, cookies and lasagne. Unfortunately I also managed to melt a very important not oven safe tray…

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Day 13-19: Christchurch

Our arrival in Christchurch was truly noticed by the locals as we emerged from our humble campervan home on wheels onto the streets of an actual city, our snack rubbish falling as we stepped out. The city was beautiful, with a shaded park and stream running through the centre of the CBD. A bustling market full of food stalls stared us down as we passed so of course we had to go in.

The food scene was nothing short of incredible with something new to try on every corner, and not at all budget friendly.

Most nights we rotated between free camping at a beach car park 20 minutes from the city centre and a holiday park with wifi and much needed shower facilities, and upon arrival they threw in a free half hour in the private spa!!

Whilst in Christchurch we spent most days in the city with art galleries, museums, patisseries and parks with trees to sit under! Only to end the week with a music festival where Peking Duk, Client Liason and Lorde were playing! We caught up with friends from Queenstown including Nico and Brooke and had an incredible time.

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Day 12:

Today was one of the first days where point A to point B didn’t exceed goodies ETA by 5 hours. Due to less then ideal weather, the road between Greymouth and Hamner springs wasn’t littered with tens of tourist stops! However, we did manage to stop at Reefton along Lewis Pass, crossing from the West to the East coast which seemingly takes a lot less time then it would in Aus.

Reefton was a rather ghostly tourist town where only your local cafe and op shop opened on a Sunday. After a wander between the funky little gin distillery (in which we couldn’t afford anything in the shelf besides a merch tshirt) and the corner shop where a cardboard box of 2 for $5 g-strings sat proudly in the entrance, we continued our drive towards Hamner springs. The Pass was a dramatic variation between thick pine forest and vast Wild West planes, and with the foggy and light rainy weather all felt mystical.

Reaching Hamner Springs was a sigh of relief however as the sun came out and we tied up our hammock between some trees, pulled out our books and relaxed into the evening. We also made friends with our French neighbour Tristan!

(Insert imaginary photos here because we didn’t take any but I made a sketch)

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 11:

Today we headed to Greymouth! About 2 hours North of Franz Joseph, with very little to offer in between - however we managed to make the drive in about 6 and a half hours, again pulling into every tourist destination or possibly interesting site.

First stop was the above the tree line walk, although the cost was way too much for our budget so we had a quick snack at the attached cafe and continued on. Although, while pulling out we saw a sign advertising a local lolly shop in the next town! Of course we had to stop. Our trip to Hokitika found us not only shopping for sweets but stocking up on plenty of sandfly bite balm too, hopefully soothing our attacked limbs.

On the edge of Greymouth we saw a sign pointing to the old Shanty Town which of course was a must stop! A holographic theatre and old timey Photo Booth? Yes please! However after purchasing our tickets we soon found these were the two attractions that were closed! But we still went for a wander, ate some carrot cake and enjoyed the ride in the steam train as the only passengers.

Pulling up to the campsite at Greymouth we found my friend Jon again, enjoyed some pasta and watched the sun set over the ocean. Stunning!!

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 10:

Day 10 already, and yet I feel like I’ve been in the van much longer with everything we have done! Today we visited Fox Glacier and it’s kind of incredible how a big hunk of ice can stay on top of a mountain even throughout all the summers. It’s also amazing how Jessie and I keep besting all the estimated hiking times like we are Usain Bolt’s prodigy. On the way back down from Fox Glacier we took the path less travelled (a lot less by the looks of it) and felt like Alice in Wonderland looking for her rabbit.

We then took a detour to Lake Mathesan, but after a large and tasty meal we were far too full to do much walking so we stopped to search the clovers for a four leaf and some luck. While our heads were down and ass up we heard someone hush behind us, only as they passed they asked “can you see a kiwi”… uhhhh no just looking for a four leaf clover.

Soon after we headed to Franz Joseph glacier where we were promptly adopted into a retirees only tour group. Caught amongst them we stood little chance of passing the crowd, until the hill started weeding out the weak! We quickly reached the observation ground and snapped a few photos and selfies before the mob took over and we escaped, checks left unpinched and hair intact.

Promptly after arriving at our campsite we realised our neighbours were non other than Agatha and Gertrude, their shirts from the day before hanging outside on their clothesline (see photo below)!! However, we got into a conversation about our travels and realised, they had no idea who we were (or at least hid their hate very well) and they all lived happily ever after!

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Day 9:

After waking up in Wanaka and picking up a few necessities we set off towards the west coast, and it wasn’t long before we made our first set of enemies, two elderly woman in a giant motor home that didn’t put on their blinker, Agatha and Gertrude. We arrived at the same lookout at the same time, and I accidentally took her park… my bad. But we turned up at every lookout and waterfall after that too! Awkward. (Yes I fully made this rivalry up in my head, they were probably lovely and aren’t named after cartoon grandmas).

Today we visited every waterfall between Wanaka and Haast, including fantail falls, thunder creek falls and roaring billy falls, with karaoke and Easter bunnies to fill in the drive. Honestly one of the most stunning drives I’ve ever taken, with breathtaking lake views, waterfalls, rainforest and glaciers. All before we even made it to the coast! Once we reached the shores, we made sure to wave to Australia in hopes Mum and Dad would see. Hi family!

Tonight we are setting up camp at lake Paringa, where the sand flies are sneaky and come by the billions. They wait to snack as soon as you even consider standing still and stand back laughing when you’re jumping around. Thankfully, there were just as many stars as there were sand flies.

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 8:

It’s time to introduce another character into this story: Jess. And I don’t use the term character lightly.

Jess stayed at Black Sheep for one night (I don’t believe we even spoke) and we met again when I went into cotton on for a top. After briefly telling her of my newly purchased van and road trip she was more than willing to invite herself. After two coffee meet ups we are now here! Yes, we had all of 3 conversations before committing to a few weeks on the road together but have had nothing but laughs so far.

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Day 7:

Woke up to a valley full of mist this morning, with nothing but the song of birds and the rumble in the river to be heard for miles around. After rolling out of bed, I cut up my pineapple for my trek and had my classic banana up and go (for all your vitamin and mineral needs) before setting further into the Fiords for the day.

On the agenda was the Lake Marion hike, a 3 hour return trip through thick forest. The first half was an uphill battle, where I honestly think I contemplated turning back more times then I considered finishing. But oh my was it worth it!! Sitting lakeside, eating my pineapple and enjoying the view I truly believe it was the happiest and most at peace I have ever felt, and I knew I was exactly where I was meant to be.

After getting back to Queenstown, I spent the night catching up with all my friends for a Valentine’s Day BBQ and karaoke night! Truly the best way to spend the day, with the friends I love.

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 6:

Spent the day driving from East coast to the Fiordlands all by my lonesome, I didn’t realise how easily I could entertain myself for a full 3 hours with karaoke and sight narration. Plus mooing at every cow that goes by.

I spent the night at Deer Flat in the Fiordlands with an absolutely incredible sun shower and sunset, whilst getting eaten alive by sand flys. But pretty much spent the evening scrapbooking and binging Station 19! Short but sweet day.

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 5:

So, Ive figured out that 3 things a day is my breaking point. Waterfall, hike and Blowhole is enough slices. Today we slept in and oh my was a 9.5 hour sleep soooo needed, and set off around 11:30 to Purakaunai Falls! After a debate about whose fault it was no one looked at the estimated time the walk took, we shortly discovered it was only 10 minutes. But what a beautiful place for water to fall!!

Next stop was the Catlins River walk, 2.5 hours return through dense and wild rainforest along a river that heavily resembles Gloucester (a flowing body of water with rocks and such). Before turning around, Jon and I decided to sit and eat 400g of pistachios between us to gain some necessary energy for the trek back to camp.

Jacks blowhole was next on the site seeing tour, with about 45 minutes of dirt road in between us and the sea. Note to self: dust + campervan do not mix!! It was a 20 minute uphill battle to the viewing point where we were surely disappointed by the lack of action with the tide being too low. Im sure Jack won’t be the last man to disappoint me.

A quick stop at the Balclutha countdown and we were ready to set up camp (with the necessary supply of choccy milk). The shower was honestly the best part after 3 days of dirt, sweat, sea and sand. And after a well deserved bowl of pasta and a game of never have I ever, it was time for bed.

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 4:

Today started off with a quick hour trip New Zealands named ‘biggest shithole’, Invercargill, where I dropped my friend Liv at the bus stop for her ride back to Queenstown. After scooting back out as fast as I could I started my journey back to the Catlins, making sure to take the scenic coastal route.

After meeting back up with Jon we mapped out a small plan for the day, wanting to hit Cathedral cove and the Matai Falls on our way to the next campsite.

We arrived at the opening car park after a 2km dirt track and no signal, all faith in the sign that said ‘this way’. Bill, our light and saviour, stood at the gate simply offering a map and car space for a sum of $20. What a deal. A 20 minute downhill walk to the Cathedral Caves through lush rainforest was enough time to contemplate all life decisions. Such as the timeless, what do I want to be when I grow up? What does it mean to be a grown up? Wait, am I a grown up? Shit, when did this happen? And after one amazing photo (and everyone thereafter following my example), I settled on influencer. Big thanks to all my followers that have been with me since 4 days ago, the OG.

We then made ourselves pretty comfortable in the local cafe with some much needed wifi, making sure to download any tv shows and movies we may need in the upcoming days while we ate ice-cream - adult things.

Following this we stopped into an old gypsy caravan side show with the slogan ‘things with handles’, where everything is designed to be twisted, poked, pushed and fiddled with. After 30 minutes of ignoring every instinct, we attempted a game of foosball where heads were replaced with stuffed animals - yes, creepy.

After a short stop at the Matai falls and some more influencer pics, we set up camp at Purakaunai for the night. A gourmet bowl of noodles for the fourth night in a row and an attempt at a fire left me down for the count by 10pm.

Remember: be iconic

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 3:

Firstly, might I say I prematurely posted my blog last night as we saw penguins afterwards!! About 11pm we started our hunt for a kiwi, with high expectations as there are over 25,000 on Stewart Island. However, hopes quickly diminished as the minutes past and the birds fell silent (quick shout out to the father and son that let us follow them around because we were scared of shadows). BUT we saw a lunar rainbow (who knew those existed) that are actually a super rare phenomenon that can only happen when the moon is at its brightest point, full or close to, there is enough moisture in the air (such as rain) and the moon at no higher then 42° above the horizon (yes we did think it was the headlights to an alien spaceship before consulting google).

This morning, after our toasted sandwich stop at the Snuggery Cafe, we set off on our hike from Golden Bay to Deep Bay. A beautiful trek through lush rainforest littered with native bird song and our whispers of anguish as we fought the uphill battle (the stairs). Not long in we were met with a beautiful Kaka, a parrot native to New Zealand and a big fan of roasted and salted pistachios!

After our hike we realised we still had 3 hours till we needed to be ready for our flight so we stopped by the local pub for a ginger beer before setting off on a second walk to the local gardens, running into a sea lion on the way. We were met with stunning views and isolated beaches, rocky coves and crystal waters the entire day.

An hour out from our flight we decided to chill in the lounge before grabbing our luggage and walking the 30 seconds to our pick up point… however my bag was not where I left it. After consulting the lady at reception she put me on the phone to the ferry, thinking a big group may have taken it for a joy ride across the ocean… sweet. Meanwhile she knocked on every door to check whether someone had picked it up by mistake, but we found it!!

A short (and less traumatic) flight back to Invercargill set us off on our next little adventure to the Catlins, where Mother Nature works as a great selfie stick substitute. After a failed attempt at reaching Cathedral Caves (low tide is a must) we turned down to McLean Falls and took a short hike into the forest, an amazing way to round up our step count for the day. Only to end the day with an incredible sunset at the Sea Cliffs. I’m harvesting my main character energy.

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 2: “Hold on girls, it’s a wee bit shitty”

It’s day two on this island and the locals have accepted us as one of their own… (insert picture of me pretending to be a kiwi here).

We started our day with a toasted sandwich (the only hot food in which they serve before 5pm) and a cappuccino that tasted like… carrot juice? Or maybe it was wishful thinking after not having a veggie in 2 days. Soon after we decided to book our taxi to Ulva island, a 7 minute boat trip to a private and predator free bird sanctuary!

Dear Matt dropped us at the island after a chill ride over and it wasn’t long until we realised how ill equipped we were to survive in the wild. It took 2 minutes before we spotted our first Weka and Bellbird! And with 4 hours in this paradise we were confident we would find us a kiwi too (even though there’s only 30 and they’re nocturnal), because we are clearly bird whisperers.

We walked, we crawled, we slipped and hopped around the forest trying to blend in with the winged inhabitants. Made friends with a Stewart Island robin and took a selfie with a suntanning sea lion. But still no kiwi… big sad. We wandered the path less travelled and spotted parrots with fellow travellers, strolled the sandy beaches and hung out with more Weka. We even spotted a few rare South Island Saddlebacks (tīeke)!!

Approaching 3pm we met up with our boat taxi driver Dan who informed us we never stood a chance at seeing a kiwi anyway… thanks Dan. Since arriving back to the backpackers we have since napped and eaten dinner, a much needed veggie packed bowl of noodles… French kiss. Tonight we plan on going out and finding some penguins and hopefully a Kiwi!

P.S. we have cookies

[anyvvhere-but-here]

Day 1:

Made it to Invercargill airport and started to regret the 750ml of choccy milk I had on the way. Time moved slowly there and it was quiet. You can literally hear birds tweeting from the other end of the airport.

We started panicking as we saw the plane coming in, although it looked my like a small tube with wings. It felt like being trapped in a paper bag in a windstorm… but look at the views!!

After our first trauma of the day we landed on Stewart Island! We have survived 4 seasons in the 7 hours we have been here including rain, sunshine, hail and wind. Whilst we decided to get to know the town and the locals it took us a toasted sandwich at the local cafe to meet about 50% of the islands population. In our attempts we learnt their history at the museum (took them 30 years to raise the funds and 10 mins to go through), their religion at the local church and their preferred snack (and scratchie) at the four square on the corner. With this avalanche of information, we needed a 4 hour nap.

Ready for day two!!

[anyvvhere-but-here]

I'm on my way

My story starts like many others, with a screw you covid moment. And after two years of online shopping, extensive but unbooked travel plans and a million hours logged at the local Woolies I bought my one way plane ticket to the Island across the pond... 7 months ago. And I haven't looked back.