300daysofsurfing

[300daysofsurfing]

Small Fries with that Chili...

Day 106 - Del Mar, 0704. Forecast said 1-2 Poor to Fair, and the cams did look really small, but I wanted some small inside stuff to "practice" on, so I went. Sun was out, the water was smooth and clear and nice little lines were coming through. Sooooo nice! The water was even a bit warmer. 1 to 2s with some bigger ones coming through. Smallish, for sure, but this was one of the most fun, relaxing days I have had there. The taller sets allowed a nice take-off, planing left across the face, watching the lip come over before ducking out the back to continue watching underwater as the wave rolled on down the line. Not sure when I've ever been able to do that before. Some shoulders to the right, one I rode face up as I watched the wave form and do it's thing. Small stuff, actually, but it doesn't have to be big to be fun. Between the rides were longer periods of just chilling out, floating and enjoying the coolness of it all. The pelicans were out, cruising around and looking for breakfast. A flight of five skimmed towards me across an approaching wave, angling down across the building face which I then caught. Then another solo guy approached from the other direction. As I caught the wave and headed towards him he pulled straight up to let me go through. At one point I heard a swooshswooshswooshplop as one landed, and turned to see him just calmly sitting there about 15 feet from me.

I was enjoying this morning so much that I really didn't want to get out. Just being in the water and with all this beauty all around me. After about an hour and a half, though, I went to catch a wave and found I had absolutely no power left. Drained. Even getting out and walking up the beach was difficult.

Forecasts and cams are great, they really are, but the dedication to actually show up regardless is what provides some of the best experiences. Keep it real...

[300daysofsurfing]

A Little Less Chili, Please...

Day 105 - Del Mar, 0700, 2-3 clean and smooth. A little chilly this morning, turned the foot heater in the car on to High to get warmed up on the way. When I got to the beach, the sun wasn't quite there yet except for little pockets of sunlight poking between the buildings and hitting the water in select spots. The water seemed cooler as well, with cold hands and even an ice cream headache for the first few minutes. The reports said 64 deg, but the lifeguards had it at 58. That sounds closer. But very nice out. There were wind ripples on the surface already, unusual for this early and usually a little concerning, but they were from the warm Santa Annas blowing off-shore, meaning the wind is helping the waves keep their form rather than blowing them out. Small groups of pelicans were cruising the wave tops, close enough to look them in the eye and even see the details of their feathers as they cruised by. I ended up hanging a little outside to wait for the nicer sets, and slowly drifted down the beach with the flow. Mostly close out sets, hard to find the shoulders, so quick rides before trying to duck out the back. Patience pays off, however, and eventually I was rewarded with a few nice shoulders being offered up. So nice to be able to get in the wave, turn to head across it as it moves forward, watching as it forms up just ahead of you. Down and out the back as it comes over you, coming up refreshed and stoked. The only issue this early on a bright, sunny day is the still low angle of the sun, which can provide a major glare factor and make it extremely hard to see whats happening ahead of you.

Eventually the chilliness, impending muscle cramps and a very nice shoulder ride decided for me it would be okay to head in. I rode the foam in on two small waves, letting the last one deposit me in knee deep water, where I just sat for a while not wanting to get out, instead just continuing to enjoy the coolness and the beauty of the water. So nice...

[300daysofsurfing]

You've Lost that Lovin' Feeling

Day 104 - Del Mar (yesterday), 0700. 2-3, calm and glassy. Almost high tide, but it hasn't swamped out quite yet. Nice morning, dolphins cruising by (saw them playing in the waves on the surf cam), sun coming out but not high yet. It actually illuminated the undersides of the birds as they flew by in formation, giving them a white glow against the very blue sky. Nice rides but very quick, couldn't really find any shoulders. Drop in and duck out as it closes out. Had my mouth wide open on one for some reason and got the salt water fire hose straight down my throat. Ughhh. Stayed out about and hour. Towards the end my calves were really starting to cramp and seize on the takeoffs, painful and kind of debilitating for a minute or so.

At first I wasn't really feeling it, wasn't feeling comfortable back in the water, like that attraction, that feeling I used to always have had left and was gone, BUT, once back home I was definitely missing it again, very anxious for the next time to get back in. Just like before. I would be crawling out of the water after a two hour session, the wind having blown the surf into a mess, feeling exhausted, and before I even reached the sand all I would be thinking about was the next morning's session.

Starting to feel it again. Just needing a little time to get reaquainted.

[300daysofsurfing]

Sunday Morning

Day 103 - Del Mar. 2-3 again, but nice and clean. In early, about 7:15. The reef was packed but the entire beach break up towards 25th st was empty. As I walked in, however, other surfers were already heading in as well. Still, plenty of room. Started up a little north, then out and back down to the 17th st access. Pretty easy going, caught some nice short rides with even a bit of time on the shoulder before the close-out. Fun. Only stayed in about 30 mins as it just felt like I needed to be somewhere else. But that quick 30 mins was refreshing!

[300daysofsurfing]

Back to Baby Steps

Day 102 - Del Mar. 2 to maybe 3. Pretty small, but clean and just my size! I am definitely having to get used to the water again, everything about it. But this size is just perfect for that. Clean, fun, nice. I am really slow and sluggish on the takeoffs, definitely having to relearn that art. Quick bursts of swimming, hard kicking, all aerobic activity and muscle groups not normally engaged during terrestrial activities and pretty much dormant for the last nine years. That's a bit of catching up to do. But here's to catching up...

[300daysofsurfing]

Back In the Water

Day 101 - Del Mar, early morning on an incoming tide. Very clean 2-3+, overcast. Lots of folks in the water. My first day back in the water in... 5 1/2 years!!! Is that even possible? Wow... actually, 8 1/2 years since Del Mar surf. Life moves you around, you just go with the flow and enjoy where you are and what you have. Should have been a very enjoyable session, but I am soooo uncomfortable in the water. It has definitely been a while. Maybe a 20-30 minute session, with one decent ride, then a lot of watching the surf and trying to acclimatize to the, well, everything.

One of the really nice things about Del Mar is the people you see and meet, the conversations you hear, etc. Very eclectic, unless of course you are from there. Then it is all probably very normal. After I left the water and was back up looking out at the surf, a lady approached me and was asking about my fin socks. We went through a whole thing about what they were for, and she actually pulled some up on Amazon and ordered a pair right there on the spot. She had an accent that I could't quite place. After I turned around and walked over to the showers, she walked up and engaged me again in conversation. Reminded me of a bee that comes up to you and hangs around, not really annoying, but there. The fact that she was wearing bright yellow probably helped with that visual. She had left Tel Aviv recently to avoid the war, mentioned New York, and was heading to Maui soon with her daughter and 85 year old mom. Actually a very nice person, open, friendly, and I am glad she picked me to chat with... I am richer for it.

And I really need to get back in the water on a much more regular basis...!

[300daysofsurfing]

San Felipe, Part II

Day 100 - San Felipe, Zambales, Philippines. Early morning, 0-2’, beautiful clear morning. Low tide definitely made a difference in clearing up the liquid gravel soup from last evening, but unfortunately also results in little swell to push over the sand bars. It’s all good as the water is warm, the sun is coming up over the mountains, the local fisherman are out on the water, some launching their bancas from the beach. There is a pair in a bright yellow banca just up from me pulling in their net... I hope they are catching more than I am...! With my back to the beach and facing the wide expanse of the South China Sea, just gazing out and waiting for just a little swell, I almost miss the calls from the beach... yes, I am being called in for breakfast with the rest of the family... garlic fried rice, tocino, mango and coffee, cooked and served outside under the open palm thatched bungalow.

An extra benefit from the pre-dawn surf check this morning - I got to see the Southern Cross for the first time in many years.

[300daysofsurfing]

Day 99 - Zambales, Luzon, Philippines. Three and a half years dry, we arrived at the beach as the sun is going down over the South China Sea. Shore break, 2+ maybe, no fins, jump launched into a swell and caught a nice shoulder, going right, ducked out into a mixture of gravel, larger stones and some sea water keeping it liquid. Sucked along and tumbled in the knee deep shore wash, nice little abrasion on my left palm, and now covered with sand and grit. I don’t mind a tumble in the shore wash, but this is a little painful. We’ll see if low tide tomorrow morning will have the shore wash a little further out over a nicer sand bottom. The quest and the stoke will continue!!!

[300daysofsurfing]

300 Days of Body Surfing turned 6 today!

So the Tumblr staff reminded me. What started out as 18 months left in San Diego and a dedicated, all consuming focus to get in as much water time as possible was quickly sidetracked by a transfer to the East Coast, and ensuing periods of over a year at a time without any water time at all. A year and a half has turned into 6 and I have enjoyed only 98 of those 300 to date. Not an issue. The best things are always worth waiting for, and Stoke has a shelf life of, well, Stoke Has No shelf life! Guess it will just make those next 202, and all those yet beyond, all that more special.

[300daysofsurfing]

Just Messin’ With Me...

Day 98 - Del Mar, very post-dated… second week of June 2015 but I am posting this early Dec 2016. Very after the fact, but I do remember a decent morning, heading out early and on my own.  Conditions look good, not too rough at all.  As soon as I reach the line-up, however, the last duck-dive takes off a fin.  Seriously?!  And I haven’t even had a ride yet!  Looking around in vain, I finally spot the fin as it pops up in a boil of water not too far from where I am.  I quickly swim over and just as I get to it, the boil pulls it back under and I lose it for good.  I mean, just as I get to it, right back under, almost teasingly.  Obviously just having some fun with me.  I head back in and slowly walk down the beach, searching and scanning the incoming wash, with no luck.  In my experience, fins aways wash back up, you just need a little patience… and faith.  Returning to the top of the berm, I stand with doubtful optimism and continue to scan the beach for any sign of it.  Finally, I see a surfer way down the beach getting out of the water with a single fin in his hand.  I waive my remaining fin wildly in the air, he sees me and returns the sign and I race down to retrieve the other half of my Voit propulsion system, size Large.  We jog back up the beach together chatting, and I head back in to enjoy what turns out to be a very good session.  I did, however, put on a pair of booties to ensure a much snugger fit…

    It is amazing that I have been dry now for almost a year and a half, yet again.  I do have a trip back west in a couple of months, however, and if I am smart, I’ll get some pool time in between now and then.  

[300daysofsurfing]

Just a Nice Morning to be Out

Day 97 - Del Mar. Weather has been improving all week, but the swell has been dropping. 2-3 and clean, not too bad. Today might be more about the water, early morning goodness and the company. Very low tide, very easy swimming, still clean and very relaxing. Cool, clear, just this side of glassy. First ride was nice, as always, but still had some nice ones throughout the morning. A right, all the way into the small stuff and into knee deep water. A left, small as well and staying ahead on the advancing shoulder with a periodic pump of the right fin. Bruce was there early with me, Cindy and Joe and Vince showed up just a little later. LOTS of new faces, but most lasted only an hour and left. Onshores were crumbling the tops by 10:00 or so, as usual. A really nice morning, just need to get back to doing them more often.

[300daysofsurfing]

It's All In How You Catch The Swell

Day 96 Del Mar. 1-2+, air temp about 40 deg, high clouds keeping the sun from providing any warmth. The rest of the crew are very slow in showing up. We stand up on the berm, shivering and looking out at the minimal wave action, and after much silent deliberation we head out, the inevitable outcome of the dedication we all feel for this pursuit. Once out, there are rides to be had and the water feels good. Cold, but good. Toward the end of the session the sun finally comes out. We eventually head in to shower off and meet up on the berm to dry off, warm up and enjoy some refreshments. I had asked yesterday about Spot, the local seal who frequents this stretch of beach. Today, as we enjoyed beer and donuts, we looked out to see Spot, in our break, right in front of us, surfing the waves we had just left. Going right, going left, executing multiple cutbacks on each ride, absolutely schooling us on just how these waves could and should be ridden. It’s all in how you catch the swell…

[300daysofsurfing]

Feeling Back In Form, Almost

Day 95. Del Mar. 0830, and it's as cold here as it is in DC. Sitting in a sunny spot with a Patagonia thermal layer top, Beene and wool socks watching the surf, warming up and waiting for the Saturday crew. Great to see everybody again!! Surf is a mild 2-3+, but calm and easy to get out with some fun rides. I feel back in form (almost) and my stroke is solid again. A beautiful morning In the water. How many more can I get in before we head back East...

[300daysofsurfing]

Out Of Shape Sucks

Day 94. Del Mar, 26 Dec. Surf is back down to a respectable 3-4+, looks nice, but I am struggling for some reason. Definite current, can't get my breath or pull a good stroke. Almost bailed half way, but turned around and headed back out. Couple of good rides, including a very long right ahead of the foam, rotating from right side and hip to left side and throwing up a mass of spray but the wave kept pushing me on, back to the right side, most of the way in to the beach. The tide was a bit high/deep, and on one ride I got tumbled under water end over end twice almost fully stretched out, and never touched bottom. Which is a good thing. Lots of swimming to stay on my line up, and my legs and hips really got a workout. Got out and felt wore out and beat down the rest of the day. Very unusual. And a little disheartening.

[300daysofsurfing]

4-6 and Stormy

December 25th, Del Mar - I have been in town almos a full week and today is the first day I have been able to get to the beach. When my kids ask me what I want for Christmas, I always say 4-6 and glassy. Christmas morning and the lifeguard surf status board reads 4-6 and Stormy. Close, but given that I have not been in the water since March I don't think I should even try. Maybe tomorrow.

[300daysofsurfing]

A Year And A Half Later

Day 93. A year and a half since I've been in?!?! How can that happen?! Del Mar, 7:15 a.m., clean and a solid 3'. Dolphins are hanging out in the line up waiting for the swells and having a blast riding them straight down the line. I am SO itching to get in... by the time I finish the coffee and bagel they have departed, allowing me time to calm down and study the surf. I have a two hour window from 8 to 10 and head in at 7:30. Great to be back in. First a nice right a decent ways down along the shoulder and face, then a nice left, even a little coverage, and then another. So often the first few rides are the best. A little while into the session the dolphins are back, running straight at me like torpedoes! One goes left and two go right at the last second. So incredible. I honestly feel more on my game than ever before, despite the long absence out of the water... Maybe all that mental practice pays off. Chris shows up about 8:30, stronger than ever. The rest of the crew make it into the water about 9:30. So great to see everybody, John, Vince, Cindy and Joe, Sam, with hugs all around. A great crew. I miss them. A two hour session usually does me in when I am doing it regularly and this 2 1/2 hour session REALLY does me in. Everything is fine as I take a small boat in then catch some whitewater to the sand... sitting and taking my fins off my foot pushes against something soft that moves out of the way... hmmm... as I walk out of the water however I can barely make it up the beach. What can I say? AWESOME MORNING!!!

[300daysofsurfing]

A Beautiful Session

Day 92. Dam Neck. Starting to get cold, but today it's sunny, offshore, 3'+ and an outgoing tide. Maybe an hour of daylight left, waves clean and nice shape. Catch a left, roll over and watch the coverage come over. A right, high on the face, then cut down and out. The waves that push up over the sand bar tend to hold up a bit before comig over. More left coverage. Dolphins cruising by way outside the line up. Late afternoon East Coast brings pastel skies and clouds off toward the eastern horizon, with the clouds catching the last of the afternoon sunlight, even glowing against the muted blue sky. Calm, clean, beautiful. As the sun goes down behind you and the light fades, the water reflects the sky and takes the same pastel hues, to the point that you cannot differentiate between sky and water. Similar to a SoCal Marine Layer morning, but with much diminished light. Extremely difficult to see the swells coming to you. A gauzy, soft-focus effect. Last ride, take off and go high and right, riding along the top of the swell on a rounded edge, with my upper arm and lat seeming to straddle it, then going down the face, the water now reflecting the vivid cold blue, orange and gold from the last light off the clear western horizon. A beautiful session.