Jacket
1590-1630
Great Britain
This simple unlined jacket represents an informal style of clothing worn by women in the early 17th century. Unlike more fitted waistcoats, this loose, unshaped jacket may have been worn during pregnancy. A repeating pattern of curving scrolls covers the linen from which spring sweet peas, oak leaves, acorns, columbine, lilies, pansies, borage, hawthorn, strawberries and honeysuckle embroidered in coloured silks, silver and silver-gilt threads. The embroidery stitches include chain, stem, satin, dot and double-plait stitch, as well as knots and couching of the metal threads. Sleeves and sides are embroidered together with an insertion stitch in two shades of green instead of a conventionally sewn seam.
Although exquisitely worked, this jacket is crudely cut from a single layer of linen, indicating the work of a seamstress or embroiderer, someone without a tailor's training. It has no cuffs, collar or lining, and the sleeves are cut in one piece. The jacket was later altered to fit a thinner person. The sleeves were taken off, the armholes re-shaped, the sides cut down, and the sleeves set in again.
The Victoria & Albert Museum (Accession number: 919-1873)
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ab. 1580-1610 Jerkin
suede (deer?), cotton, linen, silk
(Germanisches Nationalmuseum)
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Portrait of an unknown pregnant woman by Marcus Gheeraerts II, 1595.
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Caravaggio, Saint Catherine of Alexandria, 1598
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Red velvet mittens, 1595-1603, English.
Victoria and Albert Museum.
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The Musicians, Caravaggio, 1597
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Portrait of Mary Rogers, Lady Harington by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, 1592
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Gown of Countess Palatine Dorothea Sabina of Neuburg
olive green silk velvet with gold trim, sleeves with yellow, slashed atlas silk lining, green taffeta underskirt decorated with silver lace
c. 1598
From the burial place of the Counts Palatine of Neuburg in Lauingen, Germany
Bayerisches Nationalmuseum
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Yorkshire landowner Lady Margaret Hobby believed that God had sent her illness as a 'gentle correction' in 1599:
After priuat prairs I went about the house and read of the Bible and wrought tell dinner time: and after dinner it pleased for a Just punishment to correct my sinnes, to send me febelnis of stomak and paine of my head, that kept me up on my bed tell 5:a clock: at which time I suppose haveing release of my sickness, according to the wonted kindnes of the Lord, who, after he had Let me see how I had offended, that so I might take better heed to my body and soule hereafter, with a gentle corriction let me feele he was reconsiled To Me.
"Normal Women: 900 Years of Making History" - Philippa Gregory
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"Cowards die many times before their deaths;
The valiant never taste of death but once."
-Shakespeare, Julius Caesar (1599)
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Knitted Jacket
1580s-1610s
Italy
LACMA (Accession Number: AC1995.1.1)
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1575-1600 Anonymous artist - Ball at the court of Henry III
(Louvre Museum)
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Margaret Dormer, Lady Constable by Marcus Gheeraerts II, 1599.
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Domenico Tintoretto, Penitent Magdalene, 1602
226 notes
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Gold and orange velvet cape, 1550-1600, French.
Met Museum.
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