#sultan's trail in turkey

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Discovering Istanbul: Top 5 Must-Visit Places

Istanbul, Turkey's vibrant cultural and historical heart, offers an enchanting blend of East and West, ancient and modern. While known for its rich heritage, Istanbul also surprises visitors with its adventurous side and stunning coastal beauty. Whether you're drawn to the "beaches in Turkey" or seeking "adventure activities in Istanbul, Turkey" this city promises a unique experience. Here are the top five places you must visit in Istanbul to fully appreciate its diverse charm.

1. Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia stands as a testament to Istanbul's layered history. Originally built as a cathedral in the 6th century, it has served as a mosque and now a museum. This architectural marvel impresses with its massive dome, stunning mosaics, and rich history. As you wander through its vast halls, you can almost feel the centuries of stories that have unfolded within its walls. The grandeur of Hagia Sophia makes it an unmissable stop for history enthusiasts and casual visitors alike.

2. Topkapi Palace

For a glimpse into the opulent lives of Ottoman sultans, visit Topkapi Palace. This sprawling complex, located on the tip of Istanbul's peninsula, was the primary residence of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years. Stroll through its lavishly decorated rooms, courtyards, and gardens, and don't miss the Harem, where the sultans' families lived. The palace also houses an impressive collection of artifacts, including the Prophet Muhammad’s cloak and sword, making it a fascinating place for those interested in the history and culture of the Ottoman Empire.

3. Bosphorus Strait

The Bosphorus Strait, dividing Europe and Asia, is one of Istanbul's most iconic features. A cruise along the Bosphorus offers breathtaking views of the city's skyline, palaces, and waterfront mansions. You can choose from various options, from short trips to full-day excursions, and enjoy the scenic beauty while sipping traditional Turkish tea. For a more adventurous experience, consider kayaking or even taking a night cruise to see the city illuminated under the stars. The Bosphorus is also home to some of the best seafood restaurants in Istanbul, where you can savor fresh catches while gazing at the sparkling waters.

4. Grand Bazaar

A visit to Istanbul wouldn't be complete without exploring the Grand Bazaar, one of the oldest and largest covered markets in the world. With over 4,000 shops spread across 61 streets, the Grand Bazaar is a sensory overload of colors, sounds, and scents. Here, you can find everything from traditional Turkish carpets and ceramics to spices, jewelry, and souvenirs. The art of haggling is still very much alive in the Grand Bazaar, so be prepared to negotiate for the best prices. Beyond shopping, the market offers a fascinating glimpse into daily life in Istanbul, as locals and tourists alike navigate its bustling aisles.

5. Princes’ Islands

For a peaceful retreat from the city's hustle and bustle, head to the Princes’ Islands. Located in the Sea of Marmara, these nine islands are just a short ferry ride from Istanbul. The largest and most popular of the islands is Büyükada, known for its charming wooden mansions, pine forests, and serene beaches. Since motor vehicles are prohibited on the islands, the best way to explore is by bike or horse-drawn carriage. Spend a day hiking through lush trails, lounging on the beaches, or dining at waterfront restaurants. The Princes’ Islands offer a perfect blend of relaxation and adventure, making them an ideal destination for day trips.

Conclusion

Istanbul is a city that effortlessly bridges continents and cultures, offering a unique blend of historical grandeur and modern vibrancy. From the awe-inspiring Hagia Sophia and the opulence of Topkapi Palace to the scenic beauty of the Bosphorus and the bustling energy of the Grand Bazaar, each location tells a story of its own. The Princes’ Islands provide a tranquil escape, showcasing the natural beauty and serene beaches in Turkey. Whether you're drawn to its historical sites or looking for adventure activities in Istanbul, Turkey, this city has something for everyone. As you explore these top five destinations, you'll discover why Istanbul remains one of the world's most captivating cities.

[turkeyvisa01]

Top Destinations in Turkey for Australian Tourists

Turkey, a country straddling two continents, offers a unique blend of East and West, ancient history and vibrant modernity. It's no wonder that Australian tourists are increasingly flocking to this diverse and enchanting destination. From the bustling bazaars of Istanbul to the surreal landscapes of Cappadocia, Turkey has something for everyone. If you're an Australian citizen planning your next vacation, make sure to explore these top destinations in Turkey. Remember, to fully enjoy your trip, secure a Turkey visa for Australia citizens before you go.

Istanbul: Where East Meets West

Istanbul, Turkey's largest city, is a mesmerizing metropolis where the ancient and modern worlds collide. Begin your adventure at the Hagia Sophia, a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture that has served as a cathedral, mosque, and now a museum. Nearby, the Blue Mosque enchants visitors with its stunning interior of blue Iznik tiles. Don't miss the Topkapi Palace, once home to Ottoman sultans, which offers a glimpse into Turkey's imperial past.

For a truly immersive experience, wander through the Grand Bazaar, one of the world's largest and oldest covered markets. Here, you can haggle for everything from spices and carpets to jewelry and ceramics. End your day with a cruise on the Bosphorus, the strait that divides Europe and Asia, and marvel at the city’s skyline illuminated at night.

Cappadocia: Land of Fairy Chimneys

Cappadocia is renowned for its otherworldly landscapes, characterized by towering rock formations known as fairy chimneys. This region is a must-visit for adventure seekers and history buffs alike. Take a hot air balloon ride at sunrise to see the surreal terrain from above – it’s an unforgettable experience.

Explore the ancient underground cities of Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, which provided refuge for early Christians fleeing persecution. The Goreme Open-Air Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site, features rock-cut churches adorned with beautiful frescoes. For an authentic experience, stay in one of Cappadocia's unique cave hotels.

Pamukkale: The Cotton Castle

Pamukkale, meaning "Cotton Castle" in Turkish, is famous for its white travertine terraces formed by mineral-rich thermal waters. These terraces have been a spa destination since Roman times, and the adjacent ancient city of Hierapolis offers a glimpse into this historical era. Visitors can walk along the terraces and bathe in the thermal pools, enjoying the therapeutic waters and stunning views.

Ephesus: An Ancient Marvel

Ephesus is one of the best-preserved ancient cities in the world, and a visit here is like stepping back in time. Wander through the ancient streets to see the grand Library of Celsus, the Great Theatre, and the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The site offers a fascinating insight into life during the Roman Empire and is a must-visit for history enthusiasts.

Antalya: The Turquoise Coast

Antalya, located on Turkey's southwestern coast, is renowned for its stunning beaches and crystal-clear waters. This resort city offers a perfect blend of relaxation and adventure. Explore the historic old town of Kaleiçi, with its narrow streets, Ottoman-era houses, and ancient Roman harbor. The nearby Düden Waterfalls and the ancient ruins of Perge and Aspendos are also worth visiting.

For those seeking outdoor activities, the Lycian Way, a long-distance hiking trail along the coast, offers spectacular views and access to ancient ruins, secluded beaches, and charming villages.

Getting Your Turkey Visa

Before embarking on your Turkish adventure, Australian travelers need to obtain a Turkey visa for Australia passport holders. The process is straightforward and can be completed online. Simply visit the official e-Visa website, fill out the application form, and pay the required fee. Your visa will be processed quickly, allowing you to focus on planning your exciting trip.

In conclusion, Turkey is a treasure trove of historical, cultural, and natural wonders that beckon Australian tourists. Whether you're exploring the bustling streets of Istanbul, the fairy-tale landscapes of Cappadocia, or the ancient ruins of Ephesus, you'll find an unforgettable experience waiting for you. Make sure to secure your Turkey visa for Australia citizens and get ready for an adventure of a lifetime.

[sword-site-official]

An Ottoman gem-set parcel-gilt miniature Dagger with the tughra of HIH Princess 'Adile Sultan (1825-1898)Turkey, 19th Century. The dagger with green glass hilt, the quillons set with rubies and emeralds, the gold damascened blade with an inscription, the gilt scabbard set with further rubies and emeralds and chased to depict a trailing vine, verso with a trailing vine and scale design chape, the suspension loop with a chain with faceted sections and green glass beads, in original fitted velvet box with tughra (rubbed), one stone deficient. 11.7 cm. long https://sword-site.com/thread/625/dagger-princess-adile-sultan-turkey #ottoman #turkey #dagger #knife #jewelry Source: www.bonhams.com/auctions/18950/lot/172/ https://www.instagram.com/p/CohNwxILu-r/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[thenxghtwemxt]

The rot started slowly, then unfurled all at once. Quiet whispers by mustachioed advisors, desperate for power at any cost. Old remnants of his late father's cohort, who Rahmi was taught acted only in the best interest of Turkey. Talk of the Sultan of Persia; his vices, his failing, the corrupt nature of his kingdom. His wife's hand on his forearm, fingernails dragging along the flesh. Not in reprimand, but in quiet allowance. It is the rot that grew, until paranoia took shape into misshapen action. And in the mix of it all, in the disbelief that it is for Rostam... He fails in crossing the charms of distance to find out for true.

It is like an elephant standing on his chest, weighed further by the tears Rahmi promised to dispel in their boyhood years. Hadn't he wiped away every wayward tear, and had Rostam do the same?

The temptation lingers now. His hand trailing away from his belt, ghosting over the space between them. "They told me... They said-" A frustrated tear drops down his cheek. "They told me of his cruelty, his changed spirit. His ambition towards Turkey. His temperamental, violent nature. They said-" What did it matter what his advisors, sycophants, or wife said? Stifling a choking sob, Rahmi shakes his head in surrender. "And I believed them." Rahmi admits, honing in on that indiscernible fact. "I gave into fear instead of having faith in your love."

Dropping to his knees, he bends his head. At the mercy of his brother's stare. Unbuckling the sword from his side, he drops it at Rostam's feet in surrender. "Your only crime is waiting so long for justice." And he hangs his head, waiting for Rostam to commit proper justice.

confusion strikes him. "better for me...?" he repeats in a dazed manner, eyebrows raised, balance shifty, and gaze unable to meet his brother's. as the world quiets around him, the terrace under their feet turns into his private quarters in tehran. the sheets had smelled like him for weeks after his death; he'd catch glimpses of clothes prepared by khan's valet on the stool at the edge of their bed and crumble under the weight of loss; sleep, when it did come, had been restless; dizziness and nausea, his head hung over a bucket, knuckles white, as grief brought up the bitter bile of an empty stomach floods him. the hollow echo of water dripping into a bowl at his side sounds somewhere in the distance of his mind; khan's body, covered in white cloth, washed by his hands, tended to by his siblings, carried by his people; the parade of death had been the last anyone saw of rostam - until he'd marched into the throne room to declare his regency. they'd been planning his birthday celebrations; when their empire was quiet, tucked together, they had been fantasizing about what colour they would wrap their child in when their birth was announced; on opposite sides of the dining table, even after thirteen years of marriage, they were flirting with eyes and smiles, much to the dismay of those who dined around them. the noise of memories, dreams, and nightmares hit him all at once; laughter, smiles, the clink of forks, the smell of parchment, their declarations of 'yes' in front of their families. the coo of a content infant, reading books aloud with a child in the study, teaching manners at lunch. the choked sound of his husband's voice, the heavy thud of his body against the earth, his own voice in a scream on the air; the thought of him meeting allah alone...

all promises of civility halt. unable to catch it, his own sorrow falls down over his cheek, both in empathy for his brother's regret and in grief over his own loss. "in what world do you believe yourself part of!? in what life or reality have you been living in long enough to believe that me, persia, or turkey would benefit from his non-existence? he was not keeping me hostage to garner peace, rahmi, he was my husband! fairly, consensually, in the eye of allah - he was innocent..." rostam's eyes widen, his lip trembles. "and so was i... what was my crime, brother?" he asks in a whisper a question that had burned the back of his mind for a year. "loving too fiercely?"

[placeswordsdreams]

The Sultan’s Trail, Turkey (2,200 km)

[succiducus]

rostam's frown deepens. despite his outward reluctance, the words that leave ariyan's lips were one's that he, too, agreed with. in the streets outside of the turkish palace, he had heard the gossip on the air, had seen looks of pure astonishment and those of hatred in the eyes of people who had once looked upon him with such fondness. it was, perhaps, why he had not returned to persia since news of his brother's treason reached his ears; although the gardens, streets, and halls of constantinople were haunted by and soaked with his energy, his heart belonged to persia - to hear his people there speak in the same manner, it would do his heart more harm than had already been done. proving that they were united was important. with a flirtatious concession to his sigh, the king rolls eyes. "are we not married?" rostam teases, "should that not prove to monarchs and their courtiers that turkey and persia remain unified? did you not marry me of your own volition?" he clicks his tongue in a dismissive manner, "besides, i do not believe, for a second, that i was the only monarch who fell victim to the woes of sail-" sharp eyes catch slight of hand, a deep brown focuses in on the small box, all other thoughts becoming distant and hazy. "show off?" he questions, his voice lagging behind reality. lashes aflutter, a sharp breath is trailed by a trembling stillness. lines crease his forehead; a dry attempt at swallowing the emotion that raises into his throat, fails. while his free hand lingers on the once misplaced jewel, eventually falling to his side, the other tremors in their's. gentle touch reminds him of the first leg of their journey by sea, when sickness had him held tightly in its grasp and even the mention of touch in such a sorry state made him want to cry in frustration. rostam had berated himself over and over again for feeling frustratingly weak; he, the son of an abdul sultan, should be strong, fearless, not led by his emotions - yet he was. for a good part of his boyhood, rostam had tried thinking as his father did, had internalized shame for crying when he got hurt or getting angry when something upset him, and so he had created a mask to suit an environment unfit for a sensitive child, one of boisterous positivity, of coyness, of play. however, his mask shattered with the death of the previous shah and ever since, he had trouble puzzling the pieces back together. which is why he stood at their front, hand-in-hand, unable to speak. his watery gaze, once fixated in admiration on the single gemstone of intricate craftsmanship, flicks upward toward them. "ariyan..." he whispers and from its place at their collar, his hand moves to cup their jaw. the pad of his thumb traces circles under their ear, trails over earlobe before finding the regent's neck. it's there that he decides to soak in it, the feeling of flattery and warmth as their eyes meet. in a sort of daze, he decides to soak them in as well, running eyes over their face and committing tiny details to memory. the mystery in their eyes; the soft scent of hair oil; the weight of their hand in his; the quiet, nurturing sound of their voice; how he wished to lean in and kiss them. although he stares into their eyes for a second too long, he decides to tug them into an embrace instead; a way to rid himself of the desire to make reckless moves toward them and to hide the tear of grief, confusion, and gratitude that tickles down the length of his cheek. unable to think of words that would sum up his emotion, he stays silent, allowing their contact to talk for him.

though the idea of ariyan having authority to banish the sultan was far from the realm of reality, a small chuckle escaped with an exhale at the joke. " desire aside, it is important to show a strong, united front. to don a brave face, head held high, to prove both your health... and your strength. persia && turkey, in unison, unafraid. " the words were said easily, ariyan allowing their husband to fuss over the details of their attire, so meticulously selected && styled. they believed, and always had, to send the best message, one must also look their best; symbolism was everything. " we need only to make an appearance and perhaps share in conversation and a dance, if you are feeling well enough for it. " this was said quieter, as an escape, a promise that it can be brief && safety, comfort would be soon be theirs, once more.

" besides. i have something i desire for you to show off, so i believe i will take my chances on dragging you, if you make me. " another smile - one may say ariyan was flirting, if they didn't know better, and the regent took the sultan's hand once a jewel was pressed back in place across their chest. now, the box was made visible, almost appearing like a slight of hand. removing the ring, ariyan slid it onto rostam's left hand, catching the light and giving a little gleam from it's single gemstone, laid in precious metal && even feeling warm from where it had sat in ariyan's hand, within it's box. " it is only fair we both have tokens of one another on display. "

[miaglotravel-blog]

Top 10 Places in Turkey to Visit

Turkey is one of the greatest under-rated travel destinations of our time, especially for backpackers. It is located in western Asia and south-eastern Europe and has been receiving the cultures from both continents. That’s why it is so attractive for many travelers around the world. It is rich for beautiful natures, ancient ruins, beaches, mountains, and architectural heritage. We have been traveling around Turkey last summer for 5 weeks and we tried to avoid the touristy places. If you are planning to visit Turkey in a more adventurous way, we would recommend you visit these top 10 places as below. (Prices may differ since we explored Turkey in high-season, the prices might be up.

Here are the top 10 places in Turkey:

10 Kas on Top 10 Places in Turkey

Kas, once an unspoiled fishing village, is now a relatively unspoiled tourist town on the southern bulge of Turkey’s Mediterranean coast southeast of Fethiye and southwest of Antalya. The beaches are small, pebbly and apt to be crowded, so visitors in search of a broad, long sand beach drive west to Patara. Kas is also a good place for exploring the plentiful ancient Lycian cities and archeological sites. When we were there, it was so hot that we couldn’t sleep in our tent at night. We crashed at the beach and fell asleep there. The view was wonderful and the water bright blue, unfortunately, the hot weather makes us leave the place.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Kas from Antalya of Fethiye around 3 hours driving. We recommend you stay in Kas camping 45TL for 2 persons including the tent. The camping doesn’t have a swimming pool but it has its own private beach.

9 Safranbolu on Top 10 Places in Turkey

Safranbolu is a historical place located near the northwestern black sea coast of Anatolia in Karabuk Zonguldak, dates back as far as 3000BC. It was placed in the world cultural heritage list by UNESCO in appreciation of the successful efforts in the preservation of its real name for its houses. While walking around, you might feel like you are in a cute little French or Austrian city or village.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Safranbolu from Samsum for 35TL per person. We recommend you stay in Safa Pension for 60TL for 2 persons.

8 Istanbul

Istanbul once known as Constantinople and Byzantium before that, it is the biggest city in Turkey and the second biggest city in the world. It is a magical meeting place of East and west. It has more top-drawer attractions than it has minarets. The mosques, bazaars, and Turkish baths of Istanbul could keep you happily occupied for your entire trip, an eyeful of breathtaking architecture (which is interesting for people who love buildings, we are more of the nature-loving kinds). Kick your trip off at the Sultan Ahmet Camii “Blue Mosque”, which is visible from many points of the city. Stroll the Galata Bridge and stop by the Miniaturk Park to see its tiny artifacts. The Grand Bazaar has thousands of shops to browse. We especially loved our day relaxing at the river-side with some soda away from the big-city life.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Istanbul from everyplace in Turkey. We recommend you stay in Chill Outliya Hostel 64TL for 2 persons, the atmosphere is good there and the rooms are decent.

7 Kusadasi

Kusadasi used to be a fishing village but now Kusadasi, on Turkey’s west coast, has transformed into a bustling holiday place. The beaches are the main pull during the day, and after dark, the town comes to life, with vibrant bars and clubs. It gives you8 beaches to choose from. There is Ladies Beach, Guzelcamli and many more. The ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus are just half an hour away. You can see the remains of the Temple of Artemis, the Roman library. This was our first stop after Istanbul and we didn’t really like the city itself, it was very touristy and the beach was dirty.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Kusadasi from Istanbul by taking a night bus around 11 hours driving. We recommend you stay at Yat Camping for 30TL 2 persons including the tent.

6 Amasya

Amasyastands in the mountains above the Black Sea coast, set apart from the rest of Anatolia in a narrow valley along the banks of the Yeşilırmak River. Strolling around the city gives you a feeling of being in a French town. The city is surrounded by mountains which include ancient kings’ tombs. At night the city starts living and the atmosphere is enjoyable.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Amasya from Sivas I think it is 30TL per person. You can find accommodation there around 80TL for 2 persons.

5 Amasra on Top 10 Plcaes in Turkey

Amasra is 6hours driving, 450km-long journey from Istanbul to Amasra, but your first glimpse of the city from the hills above will tell you that the trip was worthwhile. Behind the mountains is located a  peninsula with two bays and a rocky island reached by a Roman bridge, the town is the Black Sea’s prettiest port. It’s a popular tourist center, but low-key in comparison with many Aegean and Mediterranean resorts.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Amasra from Bartin I think around 10TL per person. We recommend you stay in Balkaya Pensiyon Amasra for 100TL for 2 persons. The day after we hitchhiked from Bartin to Amasra, which is a cheaper and more adventurous option. We caught a ride within a few minutes.

4 Iztuzu beach / Dalyan on Top 10 Places in Turkey

Iztuzu beach is a 4,5KM long beach near Dalyan in the Mediterranean. During the day people swim, walk, lay in the sun to the sound of the cramping waves, but at night a barrier comes down and the beach is claimed back by nature, in particular by hundreds of loggerhead turtles, one of the oldest surviving animals in the world.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Iztuzu beach from Dalyan for 5TL per person by minibus. You can also rent bikes (like we did) and bike some 12 kilometers from Dalyan to Istuzu Beach, a mountainous area with beautiful surroundings (Just rent appropriate mountain bikes to make it easier for yourself, we did it with normal bikes, and it was a hell of a way haha). We recommend you stay in Dalyan Camping in Dalyan 40TL for 2 persons including the tent

3 Olympos

Olympos is believed to be a pre-Greek word for the mountain over 20 peaks. It is under conservation laws protecting the area from the development of mass tourism, making it unique as a natural paradise for everyone to enjoy. From the main street, you can enter the beach by paying 6TL per person. You can take a walk around the old, Greek ruins and ancient rocks. Follow the broken river to the beach and you will find the hidden pearl. Take some time to discover and hike around. Olympos forms part of the Olympos Bey Daglari National park situated on Turkey’s southern coastline in the province of Antalya. It is famous for three houses as well. While staying in Olympos you could also take some time to visit the natural fires of Chimaera in Cirali, just a few minutes away from Olympos.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Olympos from Antalya but also from Kas and other places. We recommend you stay in treehouses around 50TL/70TL per person Including breakfast and dinner. There are plenty of campsites as well.

2 Saklikent on Top 10 Places in Turkey

Saklikent gorge is one of the top 10 places in Turkey. It is the second-largest gorge in Europe, the longest and deepest gorge in Turkey, about 40 minutes driving from Fethiye. It is a spectacular place with sculpted walls soaring high above. The gorge is walkable after April when most of the snow from the Taurus Mountains has melted and passed through the gorge on its way to the Xanthos River. If you want, you can rent rafts and raft from through the river.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can get to Saklikent from Fethiye for 10TL per person by a small dolmus bus. We recommend you stay in Saklikent camping 30TL for 2 persons including the tent, sanitary and a small swimming pool. Be aware of taking food and beverages since the small restaurants there are expensive and there isn’t a decent shop to do your groceries.

1 Goreme / Cappadocia on Top 10 Places in Turkey

Cappadocia is on the top 10 places in Turkey. It is the historic area of central Anatolia bounded by the towns of Hacibektas, Aksaray, Nigde, and Kayseri. known as Cappadocia ancient times and It is still Kapadokya informally today. It is famous for its valley, canyon, hills and unusual rock formation created as a result of the eroding rains and winds of thousands of years ago. Cappadocia was a famous spot for early hippies on the hippie trail in the 1960s. Some came just for 2/3 nights but stayed there for a lifetime. Enjoy the silence and the amazing surroundings, Cappadocia is definitely a visit worth it while escaping from the busy city life.

How to get there and where to stay?

You can find the bus from any decent city to Göreme and then possibly you will have to change the bus. (Free service) The price is around 50TL per person from Antalya.  We recommend you stay in camping called Göreme camping 30TL for 2 persons including the tent.

These are the top 10 places in Turkey, but I am sure there are more beautiful places to discover in Turkey. Please, let us know what you think in the comment section and don’t forget to read How to go from Antalya to Cappadocia.

[bncn]

Sultanlar Yolu Yürüyüş Rotası, Nerede? Haritası? Kaç Km?

Sultanlar Yolu Yürüyüş Rotası, Nerede? Haritası? Kaç Km?

[caption id="attachment_412" align="aligncenter" width="628"] Sultanlar Yolu - Sultans Trail ( Culture route in Turkey for hiking trekking and camping)[/caption] Sultanlar yolu; Türkiye'nin popüler Kültür Rotalarından biri. Toplam uzunluğu 2100 km. Uluslararası camiada da bilinen bir kültür yolu. Yol ile ilgili Sedat Çakır tarafından hazırlanmış sultanlar yolu günlüğünü şu adresten ( https://issuu.com/sultanstrail/docs/sultanlar_yolu_seyahatnamesi ) okumanızı tavsiye ederim. Ayrıca yazdığım kültür rotaları listesine  bakabilirsiniz. Diğer kültür yolları ile ilgili ayrıntılı yazıları bulabilirsiniz. Yolun Özelliklerine gelecek olursak;

Sultanlar yolu / rotası kaç km? Uzunluğu ne kadar?

Yolun Türkiye etabı yaklaşık (az-çok) 270 - 300 km kadar. Toplamda İstanbul'dan Viyana'ya kadar ise 2100 km kadar. Yolun tamamı şu şekilde; [caption id="attachment_413" align="aligncenter" width="628"] Sultanlar Yolu Tüm Rota, Sultan's Trail Full Route[/caption]

Sultanlar Yolu (Sultanlar Yürüyüş Yolu)  ismi nereden geliyor?

Bu güzergah 1529 1. Viyana Kuşatması ve 1683 2. Viyana seferlerinde Osmanlı Sultanları tarafından kullanıldığı için bu ismi almıştır.

Sultanlar Yolunun Özellikleri;

Trekking (Doğa Yürüyüşü) yolu olarak 2009 yılında Sedat Çakır tarafından tasarlanmıştır.

2010 Yılında yolun Türkiye ayağı uluslararası standartlara bağlı olarak tescillenmiştir.

Uluslararası platformlarda "Sultan's Trail" olarak geçmektedir. Sırbistan'da Carski Drum ve Carigradski Put olarak tanımlanan yol Bulgaristan'da Tsarigradski Put olarak bilinmektedir.

İlk tasarımda Sultanlar yolu Avusturla, Slovakya, Macaristan, Hırvatistan, Sırbistan, Bulgaristan, Yunanistan ve Türkiye'yi kapsamaktadır. İlerde yolun genişletilmesi düşünülmektedir.

Sultanlar Yolu Türkiye Güzergahı

Av Yolu Güzergahı: Kapıkule, Kemalköy, Karabulut, Sarayakpınar, Avarız, Edirne, Hıdırağa, Karayusuf, Ortakça, Kavaklı, Yağcılı, Süloğlu, Büyük Gerdelli, Dolhan, Paşayeri, Koyunbaba, Kırklareli, Kızılcıkdere, Üsküpdere, Karıncak, Kaynarca, Pınarhisar, Erenler, Poyralı, Doğanca, Develi, Vize, Okçular, Evrenli, Çakıllı, Kavacık, Saray, Küçükyoncalı, Safaalan, Binkılıç, Aydınlar, Gümüşpınar, İhsaniye, Akalan, Dağyenice, Boyalık, Dursunköy, Sazlıbosna, Şamlar, Kayabaşı, Eyüp Sultan, Fatih Camii, Süleymaniye Camii, Ortakça, Kavaklı, Yağcılı, Süloğlu, Büyük Gerdelli, Dolhan, Paşayeri, Koyunbaba, Kırklareli, Kızılcıkdere, Üsküpdere, Karıncak, Kaynarca, Pınarhisar, Erenler, Poyralı, Doğanca, Develi, Vize, Okçular, Evrenli, Çakıllı, Kavacık, Saray, Küçükyoncalı, Safaalan, Binkılıç, Aydınlar, Gümüşpınar, İhsaniye, Akalan, Dağyenice, Boyalık, Dursunköy, Sazlıbosna, Şamlar, Kayabaşı, Eyüp Sultan, Fatih ve Süleymaniye camii,

Sultanlar Yolu Seferyolu Güzergahı:

Kapıkule, Kemalköy, Karabulut, Sarayakpınar, (Sırpsındığı), Avarız, Edirne, Hasköy, Hamzabey, Uluçınar, Ahmetbey, Karlı, Hallaçlı, İnceğiz, Çatalca, Dursunköy, Sazlıbosna, Şamlar, Kayabaşı, Sultan, Fatih Camii ve Süleymaniye Camii.

Sultanlar Yolu Avrupa Güzergahı

AVUSTURYA

Viyana, Simmering, Schwechat, Rauchenwarth, Trautmannsdorf an der Leitha, Bruck an der Leitha, Sommerein, Breitenbrunn, Purbach am Neusiedler See, Donnerskirchen, Hornstein, Eisenstadt, Oggau am Neusiedler See, Rust, Mörbisch am See, Pamhagen, Neu-siedl am See, Petronell – Carnuntum, Hainburg an der Donau, Wolfsthal. Sopron, St. Martin.

SLOVAKYA

Devin, Bratislava, Marianka, Modra, Harmónia, Častá, Dobrá Voda, Prašník, Vrbové, Čachtice, Nové Mesto Váhom, Beckov, Trenčín, Topoľčany, Nitra, Nové Zámky, Kolárovo, Kameničná, Komárno, Iža, Radvaň Dunajom – Žitava, Radvaň Dunajom, Moča, Kravany nad Dunajom, Obid, Štúrovo.

MACARİSTAN

Sefer Yolu: Halászi, Györ, Tata, Tatabánya, Annavölgy, Esztergom, Szentendre, Budakalász, Budapeşte, Százhalombatta, Székesfehérvár, Dunaföldvár, Szekszárd, Bátaszék, Mohaç, Sátorhely, Udvar Balaton Yolu: Sopron, Köszeg, Sárvár, Sümeg, Keszthely, Szuliman, Csertő, Szigetvár, Pécs, Mohaç.

HIRVATİSTAN

Topolje, Draz, Podolje, Popovac, Beli Manastir, Karanac, Kneževi Vinogradi, Grabovac, Darda, Osijek, Đakovo, Vinkovci, Vukovar, Šarengrad, Opatovac, Ilok.

SIRBİSTAN

Fruşka Doğa Parkı, Novi Sad, Petrovaradin, Sremski Karlovci, Zemun, Belgrad, Smederevo, Jagodina, Niş, Nişka Banja, Pirot ve Dimitrovgrad. Carski Drum Güzergahı: Backi Breg, Bezdan, Backi Monostor, Som-bor, Kupusina, Apatin, Svilojevo, Sonta, Bogojevo, Karavukovo, Deronje, Bač, Serbia, Mladenovo, Karađorđevo, Backa Palanka, Neštin, Susek, Banoštor, Novi Sad, Petrovaradin, Sremski Karlovci, Krušedol Selo, Šatrinci, Dobrodol, Ljukovo, Golubinci, Vojka, Novi Banovci.

BULGARİSTAN

Sefer Yolu Güzergahı: Kalotina, Dragoman, Sofya, Novi Han, Ihtiman, Pazarcık, Stamboliyski, Filibe, Sadovo, Parvomay, Mineralni Bani, Haskovo, Harmanli, Lyubimets, Mustafapaşa. Dağ Yolu Güzergahı: Kalotina, Dragoman, Sofya, Vitosha, Samokov, Rila, Rila Manastır, Velingrad, Borino, Smoljan, Ardino, Kardzjali, Svilengrad.

YUNANİSTAN

Sefer Yolu Güzergahı: Ormenio, Diakia, Marasia, Kastanies Mübadele Yolu Güzergahı: Kyprinos, Komara, Fylakio,Elea, Keramos, Plati, Arzos, Kanadas, Kastanies.

Tüm Fotoğraflarla birlikte yazının tamamı için tıklayınız: http://www.bncn.org/sultanlar-yolu-yuruyus-rotasi-kac-km-sultans-trail-turkey/

[caspianrugscentre-blog]

The 16th century was the beginning of the second successful period of Anatolian rug-weaving. The rugs from this period are called "Classical Ottoman Rugs". The reason these rugs are called "Palace rugs" is that the design and colors would have been determined by the palace artists and then sent to the weaving centers. this method was similar to that used in the ceramic tile production of that period. The designs, which consisted of twisting branches, leaves and flowers such as tulips, carnations and hyacinths, are woven in a naturalistic style and establish the basic composition of the rug. This style was continued in other regions and can be seen in Turkish rugs today. In the 16th, 17th and 18th century, Gördes, Kula, Milas, Ladik, Mucur, Kirsehir, Bandirma and Canakkale gained importance as rug-weaving centers, along with Usak and Bergama. The rugs woven in some of these areas are known as "Transylvanian Rugs" because they were found in churches in Transylvania. In the beginning of the 19th and 20th centuries, the rugs woven in Hereke (nearby Istanbul) gained worldwide recognition. These rugs were originally woven only for the Sultans of the Ottoman Empire. The finest silk rugs in the world are still being woven in Hereke today. We can identify the rugs woven in different regions as town or village rugs. The rugs woven in the agricultural areas of Anatolia owe their origins to the settlers or nomadic cultures. In Europe, these rugs (which are woven with wool on wool) are generally called "Anatolian Rugs" In towns where people have settled permanently, the rugs are woven with a wool on cotton combination. Today in Turkey there are regions which keep this wonderful tradition alive; such rugs are woven in Konya, Kayseri, Sivas, Hereke, Yagcioglu, Kula, Dösemealti, Taspinar, Isparta, Milas, Bergama, Canakkale, Kars, Usak, Gordes, Fethiye and Yahyali. . 📞: +1(403)398-7755 . 📧: caspian.rugs.1940@gmail.com . 🌐: https://www.caspianrugscentre.ca . 📍: 104-6008 Macleod Trail SW, Calgary, AB T2H 0K1 . #caspianrugscentre #caspian #rugs #centre #rug #carpet #carpets #yycinteriors #yycinterior #interior #design #designer #home #house #calgary #alberta #canada (at Calgary, Alberta) https://www.instagram.com/p/BvNZ-HFAUSO/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=1wjm7rf6w6ldx

[sultanstrail2020]

Almost on the way

From Tuesday 10th March 2020, I will start walking the Sultan’s Trail from Vienna to Istanbul. It’s a long distance walking route of approximately 1300 miles, named after Sultan Suleyman I who ruled the Ottoman Empire from 1520 to 1566.

I aim to walk around 13 miles a day for 100 days and will be undertaking the walk to raise funds for the education of young people and adults in Malawi – see www.brightfuturefoundation.org.uk

Malawi is the poorest country in the world but recognises the value of education in providing opportunities for its young people.  Unfortunately, only primary education is funded in Malawi, so The Bright Future Foundation helps young people and adults to continue their studies to Baccalaureate. It costs just £2 a week to pay for one person’s education.

Besides approaching friends and contacts for financial donations to support the cause, I am also happy accept sponsorship from all and sundry.

Anything from 10p to a £1 for every mile I manage to walk would be superb but any contribution will of course be brilliant.

You can contact me initially by email at  paul@navigatorpr.com  

You may be also interested in the following additional background info.

Sultanstrail.net

(just press accept if tumblr puts up an into page saying you need to accept terms and conditions on tumblr)

https://capetown2cairo.tumblr.com/ https://silkroad2013.tumblr.com/

https://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/asia/uzbekistan/articles/a-hair-raising-road-trip-in-uzbekistan/

 AND THE POINT IS.........

  April 2019

 I’ve always wanted to ‘do’ the Pennine Way. It’s been calling me for over 30 years.

 There’s the challenge of walking through peat bogs knee high in mud. I’d also expect to battle over hill tops in the face of driving wind and rain and lose my way on fog covered moorland.

 My sixth form school friends failed to complete it one summer. My brother tells tales of how he conquered it by camping for three weeks in a two man tent and eating cold beans for breakfast.

 I’ve been waiting for this moment over half a lifetime.

 This time next year I am doing it!

 August 2019

 But, what’s this?

 How about doing a walk in golden sunlight?  Meander along the banks of the blue Danube, then tootle on the remote byways and highways of Hungary. How would you like to visit ancient Roman remains, medieval battlefields and hidden mountain villages?

 The romantic in me would like to walk alongside gypsy caravans and sleep by campfires in the summer moonlight too as you follow a route that connects two of Europe’s best loved cities – Vienna and Istanbul.

 The Sultan’s Trail springs to mind. A 1300 mile trod of peace commemorating the Ottoman era in the Balkans and the route of their retreat from Vienna in 1683. It follows ancient military roads through seven countries, in guaranteed glorious weather, en route to the Golden Horn.

 Yes that’s more like it.

 Springtime next year, I’m doing it!

 February 2020

 The What? To Where?

 But where on earth does the Sultan’s Trail go? Vienna to Istanbul. Through The Balkans. Yes but where are The Balkans? And aren’t they dangerous?

 We Brits don’t really know much about the area. It’s not somewhere we invaded 2-300 years ago so don’t have much affinity with it. It’s a remote region, presumably still living in the past.

 What’s my take?

 Well, Austria.. that’s just a dull German isn’t it? And what about Slovakia and Bratislava? Good grief. Isn’t it Slovenia? It’s half of Czeckoslovakia as far as I know. Oh and wasn’t some journalist murdered by the mafia run government last year?

 Into Hungary next. Goulash springs to mind. And surely that’s where the gypsy caravan trail starts. Violins, horse drawn carriages, beautiful red haired gypsy maidens and nights of drinking and dancing round open fires.

 Isn’t Serbia full of bad guys? Are they part of the European Union even? Then into Bulgaria. Tobermory and the Wombles are the first things that I think of.  But I have a friend going skiing there next week so it is possibly a rich man’s Romania.

 There is a short hop across poor, bankrupt, Greece and finally into Turkey. Rulers of the eastern world for 700 years, the Turks were lords of the Balkans and conquerors of Constantinople in 1543. More recently they have become the scourge of the EU. But the Golden Horn and Golden Gate ultimately awaits as the final destination.

[ask-a-badass]

Belittled Shopping, answered by Shajar al-Durr

Dear Badass,

What do I say when I'm out shopping and salesgirls are rude to me about my figure? Sometimes, it’s subtle, like a raised eyebrow or saying they don’t have anything in my size. Sometimes they’re just plain rude, like telling me to shop somewhere else. I was out with a friend the other day and this woman grabbed a dress out of my hands and said I’d rip it. I was bringing it to my friend in the dressing room!

I work so hard to love myself and be happy in my own skin, but something like that happens and I feel like a kid being bullied all over again. I’m so humiliated and it's like all the work I've done doesn't mean anything.

Belittled Shopper

Dear Shopper,

What is happening in these moments is not that they are humiliating you; they are embarrassing themselves. You should react accordingly

When someone reduces you to a physical characteristic, they reveal their own limitations. When I was brought to the new Sultan’s court, the women of the house dismissed me, as did their partisans. I was a foreign slave, so I could obviously be no threat to them. I believe some of them didn’t see me as a threat until the moment I became Sultana.

I didn’t realize how much I’d learned from them until the darkest hour of my adopted land. The French King wrote to my Sultan to brag that he was coming at the head of a massive army. The French king asked nothing, but warned my husband of his oncoming death. He didn’t know his letter was to a man already dying.

In those terrible days when I was seeing the end of my husband’s life and all the chaos that the crusading army would trail in their wake, I realized one crucial thing. I was being underestimated. The vultures circling the death of the Sultan would never think that I could seize power for myself. I was a woman, after all, a Turkic one at that. And the crusaders would expect no military strategy from us. They thought us so weak and unskilled that they could warn us of their advance and still find us powerless to stop them.

When my Ayyub died, I hid his body and permitted no one access to the Sultan. My armies – yes, they were now my armies – laid a trap for the crusaders. We gave them easy skirmishes and led them towards unguarded towns. While part of the army ambushed the crusaders in those towns, the other part ambushed the waiting ships. We destroyed their fleet with fire and captured the French king.

The man who threatened to destroy my husband paid me dearly for his freedom.

I suggest that you foster a healthy sense of pity, alongside that self-worth. You don’t need to care for the people who misread you or educate them. You can, however, pity the blindness that may someday cost them as dearly as it cost the French king.

Shajar al-durr

Born presumably sometime before 1328 somewhere in what is now Turkey or Armenia. Killed 28 April 1357, in some stories beaten to death with clogs by slaves in the presence of the new Sultan and his mother, in retaliation for arranging the murder of her second husband. While her rise to power is largely unknown, when she became Sultana of Egypt, she was only the second Muslim woman to rule in her own name. Her successes against the Crusade and the first male claimant to the throne in Cairo were not enough to pacify parts of the empire that objected to a female ruler. She attempted to allay these fears by marrying a puppet and ruling through him, but when he got other ideas and she arranged his murder, it started a coup that resulted in her death.

For more about Shajar, check out Rejected Princesses!

[rehnro]

Distance: 252km| Total: 2,004km

After 20 days in the saddle my 2000km journey from the Stephan’s dome in Vienna, via Bratislava, Budapest, Belgrade, Sofia and even a bit of Greece all the way to Istanbul is over and many fantastic memories are made.

It was not easy even though the daily distances between 60-120km are not huge as such. It is the constant moving and getting on the saddle despite sore legs (bum!) or bad weather that is the real challenge. It is a mental test, less so a physical one i think. In the end the route proved shorter than planned, as i stayed away from some of the off-road GPS track to save time and because some parts were just hard with my touring bike and ended up in pushing it.

In any case, it was amazing to travel through this part of europe, catch up with friends, meet many new people and see both nice and not so nice parts of the six countries i crossed. Cycle on!

Heading south from Edirne

I left it late to leave Edirne (pronounced with a long E). Sleep, breakfast and not feeling in a rush. It was a cold morning. Grey. Looked like rain is on the cards sometime today. There are some 250km left to Istanbul and i figures i give myself three days to cover them.

Today i followed the highway D100 most of the way. Not to appealing judging by traffic passing by, but a good road leading straight to Istanbul. The other plus is the hard shoulder. 2m wide and thus making for a perfect cycle lane. Nice actually with many fields passing by.

First stop was Havsa late morning. I stopped at a local tea place and found myself soon in the company of two older turkish guys (not that they bothered to ask if they could join ✌️). One was the owner. We talked about my trip and one told me of his son living in Germany. He was there too as Gastarbeiter and thus german was the chosen language. People clearly not happy with what the lira has done though seemingly in the believe the USD had gone up rather than the lira down!?! Maybe just lost in translation.

After 4 free teas i had to move on to the town of Babeski with a little rain drizzling down. I was hungry and tried the fast food version of Döner. Dont! While cheap (€1 including coke) it was not very tasty at all. Well, fast food. I also managed to fix myself up with a local SIM card even though i understood nothing. People just speak turkish. Not even a hint of english. Much more problematic than in the other countries i have to say. Well, i got my data now. 😁

I moved on to my final destination today – Lüleburgaz some 80km into my day. First up, a place to stay. Since turkey has banned booking.com (well, it still works from abroad or with foreign SIM cards or if you use a browser with hidden VPN like puffin), i now use alternative websites and checked into a nice hotel for less than €20/night. Best to get the details online and then go there. Saved me 30%. Time for a little washing today. My bike gears smells horrible and the roof terrace is an ideal place to hang it all up. 😉

Culture check: i have been to turkey many times though mainly in Istanbul (a different planet). So far, it feels a bit weird. Not sure why, but it seems like a different world. One thing is the language barrier that i am not used to generally anymore. The turkish language is just very different. The other thing i noticed is the tendency to do things local. Like turksih pizza, electronics, ice cream, kit at, cars at times and not to mention all the imitated clothing etc. Gives it all a bit of a copy taste to me. For me, italian pizza as well as ice cream is just better.

I actually listened to the press conference of the german national team ahead of playing france tomorrow. I think we will get killed and am not on the side of our coach. Mentally the team still needs a complete restart. Well, lets see tomorrow. I hope i am dead wrong.

I spent the evening texting with laura and frances and had some beers while watching turkish soap operas. Strange, but enjoyable. Bedtime…

Cycling to the seaside

The journey to Silivri was uneventful and mainly along the D100 again for the best part of 95km. Up and downhill went hand in hand. The wind picked up though and as you would expect not in the right direction 😐. I was getting closer to the sea.

Late afternoon i had made it and was welcomed with a nice and warm evening. I booked myself into a local hotel (€16 a night for a big room with sea view and breakfast… Cant argue with that).

I spent the evening having food and a few drinks in the seaside restaurants and reminded myself of previous times in Istanbul… By listening to turkish rapper Ceza. Fast this guy!

Istanbul – here i come

It must have been my latest start on the tour other than that rainy morning in Serbia. Only 11:30 or so i was rolling towards Istanbul. A good 70km left to my final destination. Traffic now picked up markedly and the signposts with the remaining km to Istanbul acted as a sort of count down. 60km, 40km, 20km… And suddenly i was in the big city.

Traffic was crazy as i maneuvered towards the blue mosque. About 10km were left when a cycle path (a blue cycle path) made life substantially easier. I stopped at the embankment to take in the scenery – fishermen, large vessels anchored, people taking a stroll.

And then i was done. I made it to sulthanahmet and had my memory picture taken at the blue mosque. I was pretty tired and happy to have arrived. Now time to hang out two days in this fabulous city. My sultans trail was over.

So off to the hostel and dinner with a bunch of other travellers from all over the world.

Istanbul: Conversations

I had no intention to do much sightseeing having been here before. My legs also begged for a rest. But i wanted to catch up with two people i hadn’t seen in a long while.

First up was Lale, who i worked with back at kbw on the eastern European coverage. She had since worked for a london wealth management boutique, done her MBA in paris, worked for credit suisse in wealth management and now runs the office for a turkish AI start-up. We both had our stories to tell about our lives and people we both know. It was fun.

Second was Hasan. He used to be our local brokerage contact here in Istanbul, but more importantly he is a great guy. I remember well when i came here with aldo to launch turkish banks research, the time in istanbul meeting rooms, clubs and rooftops as well as our trip to ankara… Most notably the road trip back by car. Good times. We headed for a restaurant in taksim and talked for a few hours. Good to see you man. All the best.

Hair transplant central

The first weird thing i saw was several guys with head bandages near the blue mosque. And i many more i counted after in the streets of Istanbul. Turns out that the city has become a prime destination for hair transplants with costs around GBP1500 vs. GBP12000 in the UK. I guess the weak lira will keep customers coming.

So now off to the airport. Got my bike box sorted albeit i was called back by the good man having paid him with a fake TL50 note apparently… Justice came quickly, as the guy at the airport burger king (yep, sorry) charged me me TL51 but gave it back to me 🤔. So we are square turkey! Time to drop off the bike af home quickly and get ready for the next trip.

Sultan’s trail (part 5): Istanbul & A trip on memory lane Distance: 252km| Total: 2,004km After 20 days in the saddle my 2000km journey from the Stephan's dome in Vienna, via Bratislava, Budapest, Belgrade, Sofia and even a bit of Greece all the way to Istanbul is over and many fantastic memories are made.

[newssplashy]

Opinion: An ancient land, newly optimistic

The downtown has an energy that is a long way from the sleepy Soviet city I first visited in the 1980s.

Each time I’ve come to Yerevan in the past decade, the city has surprised me with its evolving elegance and cultural richness.

The downtown has an energy that is a long way from the sleepy Soviet city I first visited in the 1980s. Walking the shady avenues off Republic Square on a recent visit, I found the city has become a hip place, with wine bars, microbreweries, cafes, art galleries, boutiques selling crafts and carpets, and an ever-new array of restaurants, as well as upscale hotels and clothing stores.

The new mood is defined by the millennial generation’s role in the velvet revolution of this past spring. After weeks of peaceful protests, the civil society has pushed from power an old regime that much of the nation viewed as dysfunctional and corrupt, representing a continuation of old Soviet mentalities. When Nikol Pashinyan, a prominent journalist, activist and former parliamentarian became prime minister May 8, a sense of a new era enveloped the country.

In June, I sat in a vine-trellised courtyard restaurant and art gallery on Abovian Street with Armen Ohanyan, a young fiction writer, and Arevik Ashakharoyan, a literary agent. I was hearing Armenia’s new voices of optimism. “Soviet minds are a thing of the past,” Ohanyan said.

“The new generation, born after the fall of the Soviet Union, is playing a big role in the new democracy,” Ashakharoyan said. “We are tech-savvy and have no ties to the corrupt Soviet past.”

Ohanyan added: “We feel a new future. The reign of oligarchs is over.”

Having written about Armenia for decades, their words resonated. I am a poet and nonfiction writer of Armenian ancestry and have been to Armenia five times in the past decade. My trips are often connected to my work — a translation of one of my books, a lecture tour, a symposium.

I started the day grazing on a classic Armenian breakfast spread at the Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan, an elegant hotel on Republic Square with fine local cuisine: bastermas (spicy, cured beef); paper-thin or thicker warm lavash; local cheeses; jams with strawberries or apricots or walnuts; thick yogurt; cherries, apricots, blackberries and melons from local orchards; fruit nectars and orange, red and brown rolls of thick grape molasses stuffed with walnuts (sujuk); and black tea from a samovar. The presentation was beautiful, and the Caucasian sun poured through the windows.

Like its cuisine, the country has a long, rich history. Armenia, which became an independent republic in 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Union, is a small, landlocked nation in the southwest Caucasus, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. The country today is what remains of a once-ancient empire that stretched from the Mediterranean to the Caspian Sea in the first century B.C., before it was conquered by the Romans. It was the first nation to make Christianity its state religion, in 301.

Conquered by Byzantines, Persians, Mongols and Seljuks, then colonized by the Ottoman Turks in the 16th century, Armenians were subject to large-scale massacres in the 19th century, during the reign of Sultan Abdul Hamid II, and were the victims of what genocide scholars regard as one of the first genocides of the modern era, by the Ottoman Turkish government in 1915. (Turkey denies that the killings were genocide.)

Armenia became a Soviet Republic in 1920, endured Stalin’s purges and repression, a massive earthquake in 1988 and a war with neighboring Azerbaijan in the 1990s that has flared up again in recent years over the province of Nagorno-Karabakh. By all rational odds, Armenia should not be on the map today.

Having survived such a harsh history, Armenia has emerged as a democracy that cherishes the many layers of its past. Today, the capital, Yerevan — which dates to the seventh century B.C. and was founded on the walls of the Urartian city of Erebuni — is a blend of ancient culture, artisan tradition, modern architecture and high-tech, postmodern style, exemplified by the new condominiums and high-end shops on the pedestrian Northern Boulevard.

On Sept. 29-30, Yerevan will celebrate its 2,800th anniversary, making it one of the oldest cities in the world. In the ruins of the ancient fortress on Erebuni Fortress Hill, fragments of murals with images of sacred animals evoke the late Bronze Age. The Erebuni museum has a fine collection of artifacts, including a huge wine storage container that documents Armenia’s winemaking tradition from the Bronze Age.

Those amphoras prompted me to visit the Ararat Brandy Factory, an imperial monument to the Armenian passion for the grape, set on a perch overlooking Victory Bridge, which spans the Hrazdan River. I love walking the beautifully lit cavernous halls filled with Caucasian oak barrels. Ararat Brandy has been a major export for more than a century, and its velvety depths were made legendary by Winston Churchill, who drank it daily for decades. I left with a glow of delight after the brandy tasting that concludes the tour.

Yerevan is a city where many avenues are named after Armenia’s great figures: the early 20th-century poet Yeghishe Charents, the fifth-century historian Movses Koranatsi, the 19th-century novelist Katchadour Abovian, the composer Komitas (1869-1935), to name a few. It’s a city of great museums, including the Matenadaran, which has a rich collection of medieval illuminated manuscripts and books in Armenian, the National Gallery and the History Museum of Armenia.

I always head first for the intimate museums dedicated to major figures. The Saryan museum, for example, has two floors of works by the avant-garde landscape and modernist painter Martiros Saryan (1880-1972). In a stately stone house, the Sergei Parajanov Museum is a celebration of the great 20th-century filmmaker and visual artist’s work: mixed media collages, paintings, conceptual installations and miniature drawings on matchbooks and bottle caps from the time he was imprisoned by the Soviet authorities for “decadent” art and homosexuality.

I always get a good workout climbing the 572 steps of the Cafesjian Center for the Arts (also known as Cascade). It’s a dramatic complex rising up from the tree-shaded, cafe-abundant Tumayan Street in five monumental limestone tiers of fountains, topiary gardens and sculptures. If you tire of the climb, you can slip inside and take the escalator, and soak up one of the most important collections of modern glass in the world, as well as paintings, drawings and sculpture.

No one should come to Yerevan without visiting the extraordinary Armenian Genocide Museum and Memorial, also known as the Tsitsernakaberd (meaning swallow’s fortress) Memorial Complex. It is situated on a hill that overlooks the city and Mount Ararat, Armenia’s national symbol, just across the border in Turkey.

Built of sleek gray basalt, its elegant new wing was designed by the museum’s director, Hayk Demoyan, and his wife, designer Lucine Matevosian. The wide circular exhibit halls wind from a top floor down to a second floor. Photos, maps and documentary footage on various screens accompany text that explores the history of the horrific events that took the lives of more than 1 million Armenians in 1915. From the museum visitors walk the stone walkway to the memorial — towering twin obelisks (a symbol of eternity) and 12 20-foot high stone pillars — to lean over a large circular area where an eternal flame burns and sacred music plays.

Back in Yerevan for the evening, I dined with friends and found the cuisine more inventive than ever. Restaurants blend the traditions of the Armenian Caucasus with the Middle East as refugees from Syria and Iraq make their impact. At Sherep, one of the hottest new places, with a chic open kitchen and late-night jazz, I had mountain sorrel soup; tender stuffed grape leaves; eggplant sautéed in olive oil and rolled up with minced walnuts, dill, garlic and yogurt; and succulent lamb chops. At Vostan, in an old Russian-period stone building on Abovian Street, I feasted on pink, succulent, wood-grilled Lake Sevan trout.

My travels frequently take me beyond Yerevan. Wherever you go in Armenia, you are journeying through an open-air museum where churches and monasteries, even a Hellenic temple, are built into the cliffs or perched at the edges of canyons or green gorges, with searing vistas framed by the ever-blue sky. Thousand-year-old lacelike carved stone crosses (khatchgars) emerge from fields of roadside poppies.

Because Armenia is defined by mountains, canyons, gorges, forests, rushing streams and rivers, lakes, grassy highlands and dales, it has become a prime destination for hikers. The new Transcaucasian Trail runs from Georgia through Armenia into Azerbaijan, and offers extraordinary trails from the Dilijan National Park in the northern mountains to the caves of Goris in the south. Many trails intersect with ancient monasteries and churches.

For a small country Armenia has an amazing diversity of flora and fauna; about 240 bird species breed in Armenia and nearly 400 move through the country, making Armenia a birder’s paradise.

On a sunny morning, I headed east from Yerevan in a minivan with my superb guide, Katar Taslakyan, and a driver, Raphael Hovakimyan, whose musical selections — jazz and R&B — filled the van. About 40 minutes later, we stopped at Charents Arch, an impressive monument to Armenia’s great modern poet Yeghishe Charents (1897-1937). From there, we got a stunning view of the glistening, grassy highlands and snow-capped Mount Ararat.

In another 15 minutes, we were at Garni, a beautifully proportioned Greco-Roman temple believed to have been built by King Tiridates I to the sun god Mihr. The vistas from Garni, which is perched at the lip of a gorge, are spectacular.

We drove on until the conical dome of Geghardavank (the Monastery of the Spear) emerges from behind a stone wall. A UNESCO World Heritage site (like many monasteries in Armenia), the medieval church was built partly out of the side of a mountain. Monks’ caves adorned with stone crosses and arches dot the cliff face. I walked into a chapel and stared at the animal carvings on the wall as light fell through the round opening in the dome, a feature in Armenian medieval churches that creates a mysterious dark light and a heightened sense of the cosmic. A stream from the mountain runs through a wall, and pilgrims and tourists pass their hands through it.

At Geghard, as with most Armenian medieval churches, you enter a distinctive organic architecture, in which building and carvings flow with the contours of nature. Unlike the Gothic cathedrals of Europe, these churches are smaller in scale and designed as intimate spaces. Here, you feel the stones are speaking to you, the light grazes you.

The next day, we drove south from Yerevan into the fertile Ararat Valley. In June, the apricot orchards are popping with Armenia’s bright yellow national fruit and the vineyards are green. On this clear morning, Mount Ararat rose from a bank of clouds and the hot sun was mitigated by cool breezes.

Farther south, in Vayots Dzor province, our van climbed the road to Noravank, a complex that includes two medieval churches, one of which was designed by the architect and artist Momik. Again, I’m blown away as monks’ caves appear in jagged red cliffs that remind me of Arizona, and the milky tan limestone of the Myrig Adzvadzeen church glistens in the sunlight against a brilliant blue sky and rising mountains. The chapel at Noravank is luminous with light pouring through the windows. Gazing out those windows to green hillsides, red cliffs, blue sky, I felt the shimmer of the sublime.

Four miles from Noravank, I went from spiritual to chthonic, as I walked up the steps of a craggy cliff to the Areni cave where, in 2007, the earliest known clay amphoras (karases) — some 6,100 years old — were discovered. Armenia is considered the birthplace of winemaking. Archaeologists are still working there, and the Copper Age karases are well displayed in the cave where they were once used.

Winemaking runs deep in the Armenian vein, and the famous Areni grape with its thick skin is the source of some of the best new wines anywhere. Throughout my visit, I had various full-bodied reds that were smooth and dry, with complex flavors enhanced by Caucasian oak barrels, reminding me of some fine pinot noirs of Oregon and certain red Burgundies. Among the better-known labels are Areni, Kadar, Kara, Trinity and Zorah.

After a night on the Goris River at Mirhav, a beautifully appointed inn with antique Armenian artifacts and rugs, we drove to 11,000 feet through a fantasia of chirping nightingales, swooping eagles and clouds lifting off the green valley to the world’s longest nonstop, reversible tramway to reach Tatev, a ninth-century monastery. As a Baroque concerto spilled through the tramway’s speakers, our glass car floated above villages and ancient churches, by cliffs and grassy mountains and past gliding hawks toward the monastery, with its two conical domed churches perched at the cliff’s edge.

Heading north past potato fields and farmlands, meadows of poppies and royal blue delphiniums, we drove up the western shore of Lake Sevan, one of the largest high-altitude lakes in Eurasia. Its turquoise water is a resort for bathers and fishermen, and an important source for fishing, irrigation and hydroelectric power. At a lakeside restaurant called Dzovadzots, I had a perfect whitefish soup.

A half-hour north, the ninth-century Sevanavank monastery, with its two small beautiful, earth-colored churches on a peninsula, is worth the climb up the steps from the shore below.

Just north of Lake Sevan, we crossed into the alpine mountain region of Tavush where streams and hiking trails wind through the lush forests of Dilijan National Park. The stunning monastery of Haghartsin is nestled on a forested mountain.

The spa town of Dilijan, situated in the park, is an atmospheric place out of a Chekhov story. Its chalet-style buildings with gable-tiled roofs, open-air theater and mountain views made it a popular vacation spot for wealthy Russians in the 19th century; today it is a retreat for artists. One of the creative entrepreneur and philanthropist James Tufenkian’s four unique hotels is housed in a complex of restored 19th-century houses.

From there, we drove to Avan Zoraget, another Tufenkian hotel, beneath the mountains on the Debed River. Sleek, imaginative and appointed with Tufenkian carpets, its rooms have lovely views. The restaurant overlooking the river offers a sumptuous repertoire: sautéed local greens and onions with yogurt; smoky eggplant dip blended with tahini; spelt with wild mushrooms; a tongue-melting sou boreg (thin flat noodles layered with Armenian cheeses), chicken cooked with dried plum and pomegranate sauce; and superb dry white wine.

Back in Yerevan the next evening, I walked through an arch onto an old cobblestone street off bustling Amirian Street and found Anteb, a Syrian-Armenian restaurant, where we had spicy, crepe-thin lahmajuns (Armenian pizza); a piquant muhamara (walnut, pomegranate molasses and red pepper dip) that you scoop up with hot, puffy lavash; and kuftas, crisp shells of cracked wheat bursting with lamb and herbs. The next night my friend Ashot took me to Babylon, an Arabic-Iraqi restaurant where our feast included crispy boregs (phyllo dough wrapped around cheese), meatless stuffed grape leaves and the most tender lamb kebabs I’ve had outside my mother’s kitchen.

I never leave Yerevan without meandering through the Vernissage, the open-air market in a park along Aram and Buzant streets where there are stalls and stalls of ceramics, folk and contemporary art, rugs, textiles, jewelry and more. I bought two small antique Caucasian kilims before I wandered back to Republic Square, where I end most evenings.

At night the square, with its monumental rosy tufa stone buildings, is lit up; the fountains spew through colored lights, music plays, people dance. It’s a nightly ritual in Yerevan in the warm-weather months — a down-home celebration to end a day, and a resilient response to the harsh history of this new nation that has emerged from an ancient civilization.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

Peter Balakian © 2018 The New York Times

source http://www.newssplashy.com/2018/08/opinion-ancient-land-newly-optimistic_22.html

[courtneysmovieblog]

My holiday viewing

Not a whole lot of Christmas movies in these mini reviews, though a few managed to sneak in:

Astro Boy: I wasn’t familiar with the anime until this CGI movie.  Let me just say, trying to replace your dead son by giving a robot duplicate his memories then abandoning him when he doesn’t make the cut is just messed up.

Legends of Oz: Dorothy’s Return: Lea Michele voices Dorothy in this cartoon sequel of her return to Oz to fight an evil jester (Martin Short).  I never saw Return to Oz, so I can’t tell if it was worse than that.  It was pretty bad though.

Scrooge: Musical adaptation of A Christmas Carol.  It does have a few catchy tunes, and I guess it was better than the Kelsey Grammar one.

Ernest Saves Christmas: Yes, it’s dumb, but it’s still a guilty pleasure of mine, mainly because I miss Jim Varney.  Also, Douglas Seale (aka the Sultan in Aladdin) makes a pretty good Santa!

The Wizard: Boy, Fred Savage did a lot of 80s movies as a kid.  This one has him meeting a video game master.  Wasn’t into it.

Howard the Duck: If it’s true that Marvel’s planning a reboot, let’s just hope it’s better than this infamous ‘80s turkey.

Cry Freedom: Harrowing and horrifying depiction of apartheid violence in South Africa, in which a journalist (Kevin Kline) investigates the death of activist Steve Biko (Denzel Washington).  The epilogue will leave you too stunned to breathe.

Married to the Mob: An FBI agent (Matthew Modine) trails a mob widow (Michelle Pfeiffer) as she tries to make a new life for herself.  One of Pfeiffer’s best movies in the 80s, and she made a lot of good ones back then.

Star Kid: Kid uses an alien robot as his own personal spacesuit?  Yeah, no.

All the Pretty Horses: Matt Damon.  Penelope Cruz.  Horses.  Yawn.

Black Mass: Well, Johnny Depp sure can play creeps.  That’s all I can say about this one.

[newssplashy]

The downtown has an energy that is a long way from the sleepy Soviet city I first visited in the 1980s.

Each time I’ve come to Yerevan in the past decade, the city has surprised me with its evolving elegance and cultural richness.

The downtown has an energy that is a long way from the sleepy Soviet city I first visited in the 1980s. Walking the shady avenues off Republic Square on a recent visit, I found the city has become a hip place, with wine bars, microbreweries, cafes, art galleries, boutiques selling crafts and carpets, and an ever-new array of restaurants, as well as upscale hotels and clothing stores.

The new mood is defined by the millennial generation’s role in the velvet revolution of this past spring. After weeks of peaceful protests, the civil society has pushed from power an old regime that much of the nation viewed as dysfunctional and corrupt, representing a continuation of old Soviet mentalities. When Nikol Pashinyan, a prominent journalist, activist and former parliamentarian became prime minister May 8, a sense of a new era enveloped the country.

In June, I sat in a vine-trellised courtyard restaurant and art gallery on Abovian Street with Armen Ohanyan, a young fiction writer, and Arevik Ashakharoyan, a literary agent. I was hearing Armenia’s new voices of optimism. “Soviet minds are a thing of the past,” Ohanyan said.

“The new generation, born after the fall of the Soviet Union, is playing a big role in the new democracy,” Ashakharoyan said. “We are tech-savvy and have no ties to the corrupt Soviet past.”

Ohanyan added: “We feel a new future. The reign of oligarchs is over.”

Having written about Armenia for decades, their words resonated. I am a poet and nonfiction writer of Armenian ancestry and have been to Armenia five times in the past decade. My trips are often connected to my work — a translation of one of my books, a lecture tour, a symposium.

I started the day grazing on a classic Armenian breakfast spread at the Armenia Marriott Hotel Yerevan, an elegant hotel on Republic Square with fine local cuisine: bastermas (spicy, cured beef); paper-thin or thicker warm lavash; local cheeses; jams with strawberries or apricots or walnuts; thick yogurt; cherries, apricots, blackberries and melons from local orchards; fruit nectars and orange, red and brown rolls of thick grape molasses stuffed with walnuts (sujuk); and black tea from a samovar. The presentation was beautiful, and the Caucasian sun poured through the windows.

Like its cuisine, the country has a long, rich history. Armenia, which became an independent republic in 1991 after the fall of the Soviet Union, is a small, landlocked nation in the southwest Caucasus, at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. The country today is what remains of a once-ancient empire that stretched from the Mediterranean to the Caspian Sea in the first century B.C., before it was conquered by the Romans. It was the first nation to make Christianity its state religion, in 301.

Conquered by Byzantines, Persians, Mongols and Seljuks, then colonized by the Ottoman Turks in the 16th century, Armenians were subject to large-scale massacres in the 19th century, during the reign of Sultan Abdul Hamid II, and were the victims of what genocide scholars regard as one of the first genocides of the modern era, by the Ottoman Turkish government in 1915. (Turkey denies that the killings were genocide.)

Armenia became a Soviet Republic in 1920, endured Stalin’s purges and repression, a massive earthquake in 1988 and a war with neighboring Azerbaijan in the 1990s that has flared up again in recent years over the province of Nagorno-Karabakh. By all rational odds, Armenia should not be on the map today.

Having survived such a harsh history, Armenia has emerged as a democracy that cherishes the many layers of its past. Today, the capital, Yerevan — which dates to the seventh century B.C. and was founded on the walls of the Urartian city of Erebuni — is a blend of ancient culture, artisan tradition, modern architecture and high-tech, postmodern style, exemplified by the new condominiums and high-end shops on the pedestrian Northern Boulevard.

On Sept. 29-30, Yerevan will celebrate its 2,800th anniversary, making it one of the oldest cities in the world. In the ruins of the ancient fortress on Erebuni Fortress Hill, fragments of murals with images of sacred animals evoke the late Bronze Age. The Erebuni museum has a fine collection of artifacts, including a huge wine storage container that documents Armenia’s winemaking tradition from the Bronze Age.

Those amphoras prompted me to visit the Ararat Brandy Factory, an imperial monument to the Armenian passion for the grape, set on a perch overlooking Victory Bridge, which spans the Hrazdan River. I love walking the beautifully lit cavernous halls filled with Caucasian oak barrels. Ararat Brandy has been a major export for more than a century, and its velvety depths were made legendary by Winston Churchill, who drank it daily for decades. I left with a glow of delight after the brandy tasting that concludes the tour.

Yerevan is a city where many avenues are named after Armenia’s great figures: the early 20th-century poet Yeghishe Charents, the fifth-century historian Movses Koranatsi, the 19th-century novelist Katchadour Abovian, the composer Komitas (1869-1935), to name a few. It’s a city of great museums, including the Matenadaran, which has a rich collection of medieval illuminated manuscripts and books in Armenian, the National Gallery and the History Museum of Armenia.

I always head first for the intimate museums dedicated to major figures. The Saryan museum, for example, has two floors of works by the avant-garde landscape and modernist painter Martiros Saryan (1880-1972). In a stately stone house, the Sergei Parajanov Museum is a celebration of the great 20th-century filmmaker and visual artist’s work: mixed media collages, paintings, conceptual installations and miniature drawings on matchbooks and bottle caps from the time he was imprisoned by the Soviet authorities for “decadent” art and homosexuality.

I always get a good workout climbing the 572 steps of the Cafesjian Center for the Arts (also known as Cascade). It’s a dramatic complex rising up from the tree-shaded, cafe-abundant Tumayan Street in five monumental limestone tiers of fountains, topiary gardens and sculptures. If you tire of the climb, you can slip inside and take the escalator, and soak up one of the most important collections of modern glass in the world, as well as paintings, drawings and sculpture.

No one should come to Yerevan without visiting the extraordinary Armenian Genocide Museum and Memorial, also known as the Tsitsernakaberd (meaning swallow’s fortress) Memorial Complex. It is situated on a hill that overlooks the city and Mount Ararat, Armenia’s national symbol, just across the border in Turkey.

Built of sleek gray basalt, its elegant new wing was designed by the museum’s director, Hayk Demoyan, and his wife, designer Lucine Matevosian. The wide circular exhibit halls wind from a top floor down to a second floor. Photos, maps and documentary footage on various screens accompany text that explores the history of the horrific events that took the lives of more than 1 million Armenians in 1915. From the museum visitors walk the stone walkway to the memorial — towering twin obelisks (a symbol of eternity) and 12 20-foot high stone pillars — to lean over a large circular area where an eternal flame burns and sacred music plays.

Back in Yerevan for the evening, I dined with friends and found the cuisine more inventive than ever. Restaurants blend the traditions of the Armenian Caucasus with the Middle East as refugees from Syria and Iraq make their impact. At Sherep, one of the hottest new places, with a chic open kitchen and late-night jazz, I had mountain sorrel soup; tender stuffed grape leaves; eggplant sautéed in olive oil and rolled up with minced walnuts, dill, garlic and yogurt; and succulent lamb chops. At Vostan, in an old Russian-period stone building on Abovian Street, I feasted on pink, succulent, wood-grilled Lake Sevan trout.

My travels frequently take me beyond Yerevan. Wherever you go in Armenia, you are journeying through an open-air museum where churches and monasteries, even a Hellenic temple, are built into the cliffs or perched at the edges of canyons or green gorges, with searing vistas framed by the ever-blue sky. Thousand-year-old lacelike carved stone crosses (khatchgars) emerge from fields of roadside poppies.

Because Armenia is defined by mountains, canyons, gorges, forests, rushing streams and rivers, lakes, grassy highlands and dales, it has become a prime destination for hikers. The new Transcaucasian Trail runs from Georgia through Armenia into Azerbaijan, and offers extraordinary trails from the Dilijan National Park in the northern mountains to the caves of Goris in the south. Many trails intersect with ancient monasteries and churches.

For a small country Armenia has an amazing diversity of flora and fauna; about 240 bird species breed in Armenia and nearly 400 move through the country, making Armenia a birder’s paradise.

On a sunny morning, I headed east from Yerevan in a minivan with my superb guide, Katar Taslakyan, and a driver, Raphael Hovakimyan, whose musical selections — jazz and R&B — filled the van. About 40 minutes later, we stopped at Charents Arch, an impressive monument to Armenia’s great modern poet Yeghishe Charents (1897-1937). From there, we got a stunning view of the glistening, grassy highlands and snow-capped Mount Ararat.

In another 15 minutes, we were at Garni, a beautifully proportioned Greco-Roman temple believed to have been built by King Tiridates I to the sun god Mihr. The vistas from Garni, which is perched at the lip of a gorge, are spectacular.

We drove on until the conical dome of Geghardavank (the Monastery of the Spear) emerges from behind a stone wall. A UNESCO World Heritage site (like many monasteries in Armenia), the medieval church was built partly out of the side of a mountain. Monks’ caves adorned with stone crosses and arches dot the cliff face. I walked into a chapel and stared at the animal carvings on the wall as light fell through the round opening in the dome, a feature in Armenian medieval churches that creates a mysterious dark light and a heightened sense of the cosmic. A stream from the mountain runs through a wall, and pilgrims and tourists pass their hands through it.

At Geghard, as with most Armenian medieval churches, you enter a distinctive organic architecture, in which building and carvings flow with the contours of nature. Unlike the Gothic cathedrals of Europe, these churches are smaller in scale and designed as intimate spaces. Here, you feel the stones are speaking to you, the light grazes you.

The next day, we drove south from Yerevan into the fertile Ararat Valley. In June, the apricot orchards are popping with Armenia’s bright yellow national fruit and the vineyards are green. On this clear morning, Mount Ararat rose from a bank of clouds and the hot sun was mitigated by cool breezes.

Farther south, in Vayots Dzor province, our van climbed the road to Noravank, a complex that includes two medieval churches, one of which was designed by the architect and artist Momik. Again, I’m blown away as monks’ caves appear in jagged red cliffs that remind me of Arizona, and the milky tan limestone of the Myrig Adzvadzeen church glistens in the sunlight against a brilliant blue sky and rising mountains. The chapel at Noravank is luminous with light pouring through the windows. Gazing out those windows to green hillsides, red cliffs, blue sky, I felt the shimmer of the sublime.

Four miles from Noravank, I went from spiritual to chthonic, as I walked up the steps of a craggy cliff to the Areni cave where, in 2007, the earliest known clay amphoras (karases) — some 6,100 years old — were discovered. Armenia is considered the birthplace of winemaking. Archaeologists are still working there, and the Copper Age karases are well displayed in the cave where they were once used.

Winemaking runs deep in the Armenian vein, and the famous Areni grape with its thick skin is the source of some of the best new wines anywhere. Throughout my visit, I had various full-bodied reds that were smooth and dry, with complex flavors enhanced by Caucasian oak barrels, reminding me of some fine pinot noirs of Oregon and certain red Burgundies. Among the better-known labels are Areni, Kadar, Kara, Trinity and Zorah.

After a night on the Goris River at Mirhav, a beautifully appointed inn with antique Armenian artifacts and rugs, we drove to 11,000 feet through a fantasia of chirping nightingales, swooping eagles and clouds lifting off the green valley to the world’s longest nonstop, reversible tramway to reach Tatev, a ninth-century monastery. As a Baroque concerto spilled through the tramway’s speakers, our glass car floated above villages and ancient churches, by cliffs and grassy mountains and past gliding hawks toward the monastery, with its two conical domed churches perched at the cliff’s edge.

Heading north past potato fields and farmlands, meadows of poppies and royal blue delphiniums, we drove up the western shore of Lake Sevan, one of the largest high-altitude lakes in Eurasia. Its turquoise water is a resort for bathers and fishermen, and an important source for fishing, irrigation and hydroelectric power. At a lakeside restaurant called Dzovadzots, I had a perfect whitefish soup.

A half-hour north, the ninth-century Sevanavank monastery, with its two small beautiful, earth-colored churches on a peninsula, is worth the climb up the steps from the shore below.

Just north of Lake Sevan, we crossed into the alpine mountain region of Tavush where streams and hiking trails wind through the lush forests of Dilijan National Park. The stunning monastery of Haghartsin is nestled on a forested mountain.

The spa town of Dilijan, situated in the park, is an atmospheric place out of a Chekhov story. Its chalet-style buildings with gable-tiled roofs, open-air theater and mountain views made it a popular vacation spot for wealthy Russians in the 19th century; today it is a retreat for artists. One of the creative entrepreneur and philanthropist James Tufenkian’s four unique hotels is housed in a complex of restored 19th-century houses.

From there, we drove to Avan Zoraget, another Tufenkian hotel, beneath the mountains on the Debed River. Sleek, imaginative and appointed with Tufenkian carpets, its rooms have lovely views. The restaurant overlooking the river offers a sumptuous repertoire: sautéed local greens and onions with yogurt; smoky eggplant dip blended with tahini; spelt with wild mushrooms; a tongue-melting sou boreg (thin flat noodles layered with Armenian cheeses), chicken cooked with dried plum and pomegranate sauce; and superb dry white wine.

Back in Yerevan the next evening, I walked through an arch onto an old cobblestone street off bustling Amirian Street and found Anteb, a Syrian-Armenian restaurant, where we had spicy, crepe-thin lahmajuns (Armenian pizza); a piquant muhamara (walnut, pomegranate molasses and red pepper dip) that you scoop up with hot, puffy lavash; and kuftas, crisp shells of cracked wheat bursting with lamb and herbs. The next night my friend Ashot took me to Babylon, an Arabic-Iraqi restaurant where our feast included crispy boregs (phyllo dough wrapped around cheese), meatless stuffed grape leaves and the most tender lamb kebabs I’ve had outside my mother’s kitchen.

I never leave Yerevan without meandering through the Vernissage, the open-air market in a park along Aram and Buzant streets where there are stalls and stalls of ceramics, folk and contemporary art, rugs, textiles, jewelry and more. I bought two small antique Caucasian kilims before I wandered back to Republic Square, where I end most evenings.

At night the square, with its monumental rosy tufa stone buildings, is lit up; the fountains spew through colored lights, music plays, people dance. It’s a nightly ritual in Yerevan in the warm-weather months — a down-home celebration to end a day, and a resilient response to the harsh history of this new nation that has emerged from an ancient civilization.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

Peter Balakian © 2018 The New York Times

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