#second to last pic - if you look close james' face turns into a skull which is a detail i really like but its subtle

[wraithsoutlaws]

'Til we meet again in Hell...

[viewfromthedrumstool]

View From The Drum Stool #54

USA and Canada ‘18

We pick up the tale in Port Huron, Michigan where our band of intrepid musicians find themselves on the I-69 headed west to a soundtrack of Glen Miller.

This is my third US tour. The first was with Man Without Country back in 2013 and the second being the Saint Etienne ‘Home Counties’ tour of 2017 (all documented in detail here on VFTDS!). Both were dominated by epic road journeys and it’s easy to forget how conveniently proximous major cities are back home in comparison to the spacious lay of the land out here. We’ll clock up a cool 400 miles today - the equivalent of driving from London to Glasgow - and that’s by no means a long one.

But it’s a beautiful country to travel in; the pastel tarmac, green fields, colourful outbuildings and blue sky...

In Kalamazoo, we check in at the Best Western (in true American fashion the rooms are obscenely huge and feature a kitchenette) and head straight out to the finest Italian this side of town: Erbellis!

We enjoy a round of radioactive Catalina Margaritas and contemplate the menu...

With easily hundreds of dishes to choose from there’s lots of contemplating to do and options include ‘Be Careful Not To Choke Pepperoni Shocker’, ‘Meat Monster Mania’ and ‘The Rhino’ which contains SEVEN different types of meat. (I can barely name seven different types of meat.)

I opt for the calmer sounding ‘The Greek’ (feta, tomatoes, olives etc.) on a Chicago style crust. What I’m presented with might be better described to an Englishman as a pie, only with pizza base instead of pastry and a topping of marinara sauce in place of the gravy. It’s as ambitious as it sounds and a more typically American experience than an authentic Italian one.

Nonetheless it’s an experience and in search of more of the same we head straight to the nearest bowling alley! Revel and Roll in Kalamazoo is a modern affair with half-price drinks and a scoring system that incorporates photographs of each players face into funny little animations between frames. It’s hilarious and a welcome palette cleanser after the gigs and travel so far.

Tour manager and bassist Joe opens the strongest taking victory in the first game with a decent score of 125. It’s only a shame he couldn’t stay for a second as I know he would have been proud to witness my impressive followup: a courageous score of 128! Three whole points more than his 125! Thus I win overall, and beat his best score.

(I’m not saying that I like to gloat but I’ll admit I posted a printout of the scoresheet under the door of his hotel room...)

The following morning and riding high on the sweet taste of my bowling victory by three points (“The real winner here is bowling” I lie), we reconvene in the hotel lobby and drive into Kalamazoo centre for a spot of brunch (at the Studio Grill - classic American diner fare albeit lacking a huevos rancheros).

Our next stop is the very reason we even chose Kalamazoo as a destination in the first place. (It’s not the longest train curve in America, although I hear it’s a big pull.)

As many musicians know, Kalamazoo is the birthplace and spiritual home of Gibson Guitars! We drive a few blocks over to the original factory, located beside a railroad on the northeast side of town.

Orville Gibson founded the company here in 1894 and originally specialised in building mandolins. The Les Paul, 335, Explorer, Flying-V and SG all followed and in the 80’s, having inevitably outgrown this original facility, they relocated to Tennessee. The few employees who didn’t fancy the move stayed put, founded Heritage Guitars, and still operate out of a modernised portion of the original factory to this day.

The majority of the building is now abandoned and boarded up however. But despite the dilapidated appearance it doesn’t feel like a sad place and it’s magical to think of the great impact on rock ‘n’ roll - nay popular culture as a whole - that the instruments which have emerged from this factory have had.

Alas one of Michigans lesser-celebrated fames is the poor quality of its roads and the journey to Chicago is at best bumpy, and at worse skull-shaking. Eventually, with a final rattle and jolt, we cross the state line - pick up Central Standard Time, gaining an hour - and moments later pass by Michigan City itself ... which strangely happens to be in Indiana.

Entertainment on-route is provided by the billboards of the I-94, my favourites including one for a strip club (’All the liquor, none of the clothes’) and another for a vasectomy clinic (’Buy one testis, get the other free’).

Eventually we roll into the beautiful Park End West venue just as Via Chicago by Wilco finishes in my headphones - what could be more appropriate.

We played here on the last tour, I loved the venue then and I love it still. The crew are friendly and professional, the gear is great and the comfortable backstage is packed with fresh rider and cool beers. It’s the perfect venue to catch a gig too with room at the front for those who wish to stand and dance, booths in the middle with waitress service and stools up by the cocktail bar. I could happily bed down here for a year, get a job on the bar and befriend all the locals.

(Pic by James)

A few weeks back while playing Victorious Festival in Portsmouth with Gaz Coombes, I got chatting to one Paul Von Mertens. Paul is Musical Director and wind player with Brian Wilson and mentioned that he was from Chicago. We chatted for a while, I told him I’d shortly be in town with Saint Etienne and he said he’d love to come. True to his word he came to check out the show and was kind enough to regale us with tales of life on the road and in the studio with Brian, Wilco and many others. (Appropriately the title of the Good Humor album that we’re touring was inspired by a picture of Brian Wilson...)

The following day we spend traveling and our party takes a plane down to San Francisco ahead of our penultimate show of the tour at The Chapel. The route takes us over the Rockies and the view through the window is another mesmerising one. I’ve said it before but America is one beautiful country from the air…

While the Northeast, Deep South and Midwest of America all have their charms, none quite compare to California for me and in particular the sparkling vibrant glorious dazzling sunlight which comes beaming through the cabin windows as soon as we descend below the clouds.

We check in at the La Quinta Inn & Suites in South San Francisco and dive across to Denny’s - it’s busy on a Friday night but they now serve beer so the wait is bearable. James and I fancy a nightcap and fortunately there are drinkeries just a couple of blocks north. Unfortunately - given the American tradition of driving everywhere - they’re totally un-walkable so we have to take a 90 second Uber instead…

The Armstrong Brewing Company are a friendly bunch but their output doesn’t amount to much and we found only one of their 10+ beers vaguely palatable. Most of their creations lack subtlety and are often far too strong to be enjoyable, although they more than make up for it in friendly hospitality and are eager for us to stay even after closing time.

Show day in San Francisco! I’m on the hunt for huevos rancheros once again and have high hopes for California based on reputation, past experience and proximity to Mexico. Once in the Mission District I head to San Jalisco on the recommendation of some Saint Etienne fans. It’s certainly an authentic experience - the food isn’t paired down for our taste and half the clientele is Mexican. There’s even a guitarist who provides an authentic soundtrack, though he’s not exactly Santana. Thanks for the suggestion folks.

I walk off the large lunch around the streets of the Mission District enjoying the glorious Californian light with my film camera. I’m not the only one and when I stumble come across our venue for tonight I find an elderly gent wandering down the street bearing a very old looking 16mm camera. His name is Nathaniel Dorsky - I later learn a much celebrated experimental filmmaker who has exhibited his unusual silent films around the world. We both have a love for film and share an inspiring conversation right there on the street that will stay with me.

The promoter at The Chapel is charming and not only does the epic rider contain some swanky desert pieces (and later cocktails), she’s even brought her dog along to help out! Some of us also receive a generous gift from a fan called ‘Adam’. Wherever you are, whoever you are, Adam I thank you for the four bottles of aftershave. I smell sensational.

San Francisco is always a great show for Saint Etienne and tonight is no different. The venue is packed out and the stage time is put back on numerous occasions because half the audience are still queueing up at the merch stand. When we eventually make it out, the crowd are rabid and one eager fan (is it Adam?) leans over to chat, shake hands and generally hang between every song. Which would be much more welcome if I weren’t in the middle of an indie dance show...

As per last year’s Home Counties US Tour, our final stop is Los Angeles and the Henry Fonda Theatre on Hollywood Boulevard. It’s an easy journey down by air and we’re back at the 101 Coffee Shop on Franklin Ave in time for lunch.

Their huevos rancheros are probably my favourite on the tour too. The 101 was the diner that first turned me on to the dish and it’s fitting finale fare for the final day of the tour.

Chuck E Weiss is in the house too, favourite of Tom Waits and the muse to the classic Rickie Lee Jones song ‘Chucks E’s In Love’. Listen out for the iconic drum part from Steve Gadd...

Back to the Fonda Theater on Hollywood Boulevard. A familiar setting with a familiar crew, gear and backstage too. It’s a wonderful joyous gig and the crowd brings top energy to help us over the line.

As some may know, I periodically play drums with Gaz Coombes and as it happens a number of his band - including numerous VFTDS alumni - flew in this evening ahead of a TV appearance later in the week! The aftershow party was not just a celebration of the tour but also a reunion with familiar faces from both home and away. This Is Your Life!

Shout out also to Dan and Mike who not only attended the Chicago, San Fran and LA shows but did so in their homemade Home Counties suit jackets! Having seen them down the front every night it was great to finally meet them for a quiet and civilised chat...

While the rest of the gang head home (business class, naturally) I’m staying on in LA for a few days. Thanks for the good times USA! You’ve been great as ever. The gigs have rocked, the band has been great and the crowds buzzing with no exceptions.

I’m off to watch the Dodgers with some pals… see you soon!

Mike