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Bezisten (Bitola, Macédoine du Nord)
#bitola#macédoine du nord#north macedonia#bezisten#vieux bazar#contraste#constrast#voyage#travel#rue#street#travel photography#street photography#photographie de rue#photographie de voyage#travel europe#voyage en europe#old bazaar#noir et blanc#black and white#photographers on tumblr
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STARA BITOLSKA CARSIJA
(BITOLA OLD BAZAAR MARKET)
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Makedonya’da Gezilecek Bölgeler
Makedonya, Eski Yugoslavya Cumhuriyetlerinden birisiydi. Arnavutluk, Kosova, Sırbistan, Bulgaristan ve Yunanistan içinde sıkışmış, yedi yüz bin sözü geçen ufak bir ülke burası. Birtakım ülkeler vardır, ismini pek duymamış olsanız dahi, oraya ilk kez adım attığınızda değişik bulunduğunu anlarsınız ve sizi kendisine çekmeye adım atar. İşte bunlardan birisi benim için mutlaka Makedonya. Burasını farklılığı aslına bakarsak tarihi ve kültürel özellikleri ile benzerimiz olmasıydı. Makedonya Cumhuriyeti, Balkan Yarımadasında içeriyor ve Güneyinde Yunanistan, doğusunda Bulgaristan, batısında Arnavutluk, kuzeyinde ise Sırbistan ve Kosova ile komşu. Doğası inanılmaz güzel ve bakir bir ülke. Öteki bir çok ülkelerdeki benzer biçimde kitlesel gezim hemen hemen bu ülkeyi ve misafirperverliğini bozmamış. Fiyatlar makul, konaklama seçenekleri de müsait. 1. Üsküp
Makedonya’nın başkenti Üsküp, Vardar Nehri’nin iki kıyısına kurulmuş. şehri dolaşmak için 1 tam gün kafi. Tarihi bir Osmanlı yerleşimi olan şehir, Üsküp, Makedon dilinde Skopje olarak adlandırılıyor. Vardar Nehri’nin her iki kıyısına kurulmuş şehrin merkezi çok sayıda heykellerle süslenmiş. Makedonya turlarının başlangıç rotası Üsküp’te kentin simgesi 13 kemerli Taş Köprü ve Old Bazaar (Türk Çarşısı) mühim bölgeler içinde. 500 yıldan fazla bir müddet Osmanlı egemenliğinde kalmış çarşı içinde yer edinen Mustafa Paşa Camii, Kurşunlu Han, Sulu Han, Davut Paşa Hamamı görülecek yerlerin başlangıcında. Buna Üsküp’ün en yüksek yerine kurulu olan Üsküp Kalesi de eklenebilir. Şehrin gece yaşamı hakkındaki merak ettikleriniz var ise Üsküp gece yaşamı yazısına göz atın. 2. Ohrid
Ohrid, Balkanlar’ın en güzel şehirlerinden birisi bana gore. Nerdeyse 1 ay devam eden Balkanlar seyahatimde 2 kez ziyaret ettim bu güzel şehri. Makedonya’nın gözbebeği şehir, aynı ismi taşıyan Ohrid Gölü kıyısına kurulmuş emsalsiz mimariye haiz günübirlik gezilecek kadar ufak bir yer. Ohrid rahatlık verici bir yer. Çar Samuel Kalesi, UNESCO Dünya Mirası tarihi eski şehir bölgesi, Ali Paşa Camii, Halveti Tekkesi Ohrid’de görülecek bölgeler içinde. Makedonya gezinsel bölgeler arasındaki Ohrid civarında bir zamanlar 365 adet kilise olduğu söyleniyor. Avrupa’da ki en eski uygarlıklardan biri ve dünyada ki en eski Slav manastırı olan Saint Pantelejmon, Sveti Naum ve Treskavec Manastırı kesinlikle görülmesi gereken dini yapılardan. Üsküp’e 3,5 saatlik mesafede içeriyor. Gölde tekne gezisi yapılabilir. 3. Struga
Ohri Gölü’nün kıyısına kurulan yeni ve gezinsel bir şehir olan Struga‘yahut uğrama fırsatı buldum. Struga, düzenlenen sanat geceleri, şiir festivalleri ile tanınan bir şehir. Ohri kıyısında Dirim Nehri’nin çıkmış olduğu nokta üstüne ahşaptan meydana getirilen köprü ve köprünün birbirine bağladığı iki yaka şiir festival merkezi olarak kullanılıyor. Köprünün karşı taraflarında birçok demir atmış tekneleri görüyorsunuz. Ohri Gölü kenarındaki kafeler rahatlık verici. şehri bölümü ufak olsa da pak bir çarşısı ve sokakları bulunuyor. Struga üniversite şehri olduğu için sokaklarda ve kafelerde gençleri çoğunlukla görüyorsunuz. Struga ile Ohrid içinde otobüs seferleri yapılıyor ve seyahat ortalama 20 dakika sürüyor. 4. Bitola
Fazlaca kültürlü yapısıyla öne çıkan Bitola yahut Türkçe adıyla Manastır, Makedonya’nın ikinci en büyük şehri. En büyük dediğime de bakmayın doğal olarak, şehir yüz bine yaklaşan nüfusuyla irice bir kasaba benzer biçimde görünüyor. Manastır, şehirleşmenin getirmiş olduğu karmaşadan uzak fazlaca sakin, şirin ve pak bir şehir. Birtakım sokakları Türk dizilerine uzun zaman mekân olmuş. Manastır, tarihte zamanda Osmanlı 3. Ordusunun da merkezi olması sebebiyle öteki Makedonya şehirlerine nazaran fazlaca gelişmiş. Burası hem de, 1896 senesinde Mustafa Kemal Atatürk’ün askeri liseyi okumak için geldiği yer. Mustafa Kemal, Selanik Askerî Rüştiyesindeki eğitimini tamamladıktan sonrasında, Manastır Askerî İdadisinin sınavlarına girerek başarıya ulaşmış olmuş. Selanik daha sonra yaşamış olduğu ilk şehir Manastır olmuş. 5. Tetova
Makedonya’nın 3. büyük şehri olan Tetova ise ziyaret edilecek öteki bir şehir. Kalkandelen adıyla malum şehir, Osmanlı Periyodu’nde Balkanlar’daki en mühim merkezlerdendi. Nüfusunun sıklıkla Müslüman olduğu Tetova, Makedonya’nın kuzey batısında, Şar Dağları’nın eteklerinde, Pena Nehri kenarına kurulu. Kalkandelen’deki Alaca Camii, Makedonya’daki dini yapılar içerisinde gerek mimari, gerekse süsleme özellikleri bakımından hususi bir konuma haiz. Sersem Ali Baba’nın 1526’da temelini kurduğu ve ismiyle anılan dergâh Harabati tekkesi görülebilir. Üsküp’e otuz dakika uzaklıkta. 6. Mavrovo
Makedonya’nın başkenti Üsküp’e yalnız 1,5 saat uzaklıkta yer edinen ve son yıllarda ülkemizden de çok sayıda kayak severi kendisine çeken Mavrovo Bölgesi, etkisi altına alan doğası ile göz kamaştırıcı. Kar altında ormanlar, dağlar ve göl…Biriktirilen yağmur sularının Mavrovo Vadisi’ne biriktirilmesiyle açılan Mavrovo Gölü kenarında bir vadide kurulu kasaba, ufak köylerden ve göl çevresine yayılmış evlerden oluşuyor. Kayak severler Mavrovo Kayak Merkezi’ni bir yere not etmeli. Çam ormanlarıyla kaplı Mavrovo National Parkı, Şara Dağ ve Pind Dağları’nın göze çarptığı ve 2000 metreden yüksekte 52 tane zirvenin olduğu geniş bir alanı kaplıyor. Tabiat ve treeking seveler için mükemmel bir rota olabilir. 7. Galiçnik
Miyak bölgesinin kalbinde, Bistra’nın eteklerinde yer edinen Galiçnik (Galičnik), Mavrovo’ya 17 km uzaklıkta içeriyor. Tarihi köy mimarisi korunmuş, 1400 metre rakımdaki Galiçnik, geleneksel giysiler içinde tekrar geleneksel adetler suretiyle meydana getirilen düğünleri ile biliniyor. Her sene Temmuz ortalarında düzenlenen geleneksel Galiçnik Düğünü, mahalli kültürü yakından tanımak isteyenlerin ilgisini çekebilir. 8. Gostivar
Gostivar, Batı Makedonya’da Yukarı Polog’da içeriyor. Vardar nehrinin sol tarafında uzanıyor ve Üsküp-Kalkandelen-Gostivar-Ohri yolu yakınlı var. Kent içerisinden geçen demiryolu ile Üsküp, Kalkandelen ve Kırçova bağlı. Makedonya’nın en büyük nehrin deposu Vrutok; Gönovitsa Mağarası (Güzeli) gezilecek bölgeler içinde. Ek olarak ufak bronz heykel Menada (Baküs Perisi) görülmeli. 9. Resne
Resne elmaları ile meşhur bir Makedon şehri. Ben de buradan geçerken nefis elmalarından almıştım. 14. yüzyılda, 1385-1913 içinde Osmanlı İmparatorluğu’na bağlıydı. Resne çarşısı, Kurbinovo’daki 12 yüzyılda inşa edilmiş Sv. George Manastırı ve Ahmet Niyazi Bey Sarayı görülecek yerlerden bazıları. UNESCO himayesinde dünyanın en büyük 10 seramik Kolonisinden kabul edilen Resne Seramik Kolonisi eserleri galerisi görülmeli. Makedonya’nın güneybatısında yer edinen Resne’den Tiran-Ohri-Manastır-Gradsko yolu geçiyor. Makedonya şehirleri: Üsküp, Ohri, Bitola, Pirlepe, Berovo, Struga, Dojran, Krushevo, Kavadarci, Gevgelija, Gostivar, Strumica, Kochani, Debar, Tetovo, Shtip, Negotino, Prilep, Veles, Kumanovo, Demir, Kapija, Kratovo ve Kicevo. Vizesiz ülkeler içinde yer edinen Makedonya benim sevdiğim ülkelerden. Balkanlar turu içinde kesinlikle görülmesini öneri ettiğim bir ülke burası; bilhassa de Ohrid’e kesinlikle gidin. Read the full article
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Part 2: Macedonia, one of Europe’s undiscovered gems
Of this I am quite sure, that Europe has many places yet undiscovered (and ruined) by tourists. Macedonia is definitely one of them. I had never even heard of Macedonia until a friend mentioned it in passing (shoutout to Ashley!), and as it shares a border with Bulgaria, I thought it would make a nice trip combo.
Boy was that a good idea. I started my trip in Skopje, the capital, a 4ish hour bus ride from Sofia. The main square and streets have all been redesigned in the last 10 years, and over 100 monuments and statues have been added. It’s actually quite controversial, as any local you ask will tell you that there are too many of them. As one taxi driver told me: “I don’t know who any of the people in the monuments are! Look over there--I don’t know who that guy is!”
Nevertheless, they give Skopje an old town feel. It’s ironic that modern statues would give it this feeling, as Macedonia is one of the oldest parts of Europe, as I learned on my last day there. Anyways, I spent my first 1.5 days exploring the city: from the large statue of Aleksander the Great in the main square, to the Turkish neighborhood with the biggest old bazaar after Istanbul, to the Museum of the History of Macedonia, and finally to the Millennium Cross located at the top of Mount Vodno, which offered stunning views of the Balkans.
Skopje is also the birthplace of Mother Teresa (#themoreyouknow) and they have a small museum close to where her house once stood.
There were also amazing views of the city and surrounding area from the Kale fortress, where I went for a morning walk.
On my second day, I took a day trip to Lake Ohrid. I really wish I could have spent more time (2 days, ideally) in this absolutely breathtaking town on the lake. The lake itself is situated between Macedonia and Albania, and has some of the cleanest, clearest water I’ve seen in a lake. Not to mention that the town itself is considered the Jerusalem of Europe because it has over 300 churches for it’s small population of 50,000. The town is built into the side of a mountain, and after walking through it, I ended up at a church (of course) on the edge of the mountain overlooking the lake.
A local offered me a ride back to the center (only 5$, cheap like everything else in Macedonia) and the water was stunning. See for yourself. These photos were taken courtesy of my spanking new iPhone 7 (held firmly in my shaking grasp as I dared to take it out of my bag ON A TINY BOAT) with no filters. Beautiful is an understatement.
My boat driver (is that what they’re called?) lives in a house in this picture, he pointed it out as we sailed by. Not sure about proper boat terminology. ;) I was sad to leave Ohrid after such a short time there, but I already had plans for my last day and now I keep it in my mind as a possible destination for the day I go to Albania.
On my last day, I traveled to Bitola, Macedonia’s second-largest city, with a whopping population of 80,000. Although it doesn’t have much in the way of tourism, there is a large bazaar, an old clocktower from the 1500s, and a few mosques.
There are also the old city remains of Heraclea, which make Bitola one of the oldest cities in Europe. It featured wonderful stone mosaics that are still mostly intact. I was the only one visiting that day, and it had a deserted appearance that wasn’t helped by the boarded up museum that was ‘closed for renovation’ and the old grandpa selling tickets who didn’t even pause his TV show to sell me mine.
The ruins were definitely a lot like the ancient ruins one sees in Greece, and that’s no surprise as throughout history Greece and Macedonia have been like old crotchety neighbors who can’t get along. Although Macedonia was set to have become a member of the European Union by now, Greece has opposed it because they claim that ‘Macedonia’ is a separate entity and actually part of Greece, of so Macedonia should actually call themselves the “Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia”. Like, really? From what I read at the history museum I went to, Greece has never let the ethnic Macedonians live in peace, persecuting them based on their language and culture. It’s sad and interesting at the same time, because in today’s society, Greece is never thought as of a bully, but to Macedonians, it has always been this way.
I don’t mean to end this post on a depressing note, but it’s always important to experience distinct perspectives, and this trip really helped me to do that. That’s the beautiful thing about travel for me: how it opens up your perspective and allows you to see the world in a different light.
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The Balkan countries in southeastern Europe are popular places to travel right now. Croatia has long had a reputation for being a top beach destination but now more travelers are waking up to the fact that the whole area has much to offer, from majestic mountains and pristine rivers to old bazaars and impressive archaeological sites. One destination, which is still considered fairly off the beaten track, is Macedonia, a small country with a rich history and beautiful nature. If you’re looking for an interesting Balkan destination with fewer tourists, Macedonia makes a great choice. Here are the top five places to visit in Macedonia.
Skopje
The capital of Macedonia, Skopje has a lot to offer foreign visitors. In 2014, the city went through a huge renovation, involving the construction and reconstruction of bridges, museums, government buildings, and monuments of famous Macedonian historical figures. Probably the most famous of these monuments is the Warrior on a Horse statue and fountain in Macedonia Square, which is famed for its ivory reliefs and bronze figures. The statue is believed to be Alexander the Great, although this has never been officially confirmed. Other monuments to check out include: Mother Teresa, who was a Skopje native; Porta Macedonia, a triumphal arch commemorating Macedonian Independence; and the Warrior Monument, thought to depict Philip II of Macedon.
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Across the river from Macedonia Square, you will find the Old Bazaar, one of the largest in the Balkans and where traders have been hawking their wares since the 12th century. As well as being a great place to pick up bargains, the bazaar also has cultural and historical significance. Ottoman and Byzantine architecture are both present and there are several active mosques and churches in the area.
Other points of interest in Skopje include: Kale Fortress, sitting on the highest hill in the city and offering great views; the Aqueduct, probably built during Byzantine times and still with 55 arches standing; and City Park, which has an array of monuments and places of interest, including the zoo and a children’s amusement park. Skopje is also well known for its cafe culture; pretty much every street has several cafes with excellent and cheap coffee and tea.
Archeological museum of Skopje
Ohrid
Set against the background of Lake Ohrid and often called the ‘Jewel in Macedonia’s crown’, the town of Ohrid is known as the spiritual heart of Macedonia because of its 365 churches – one for every day of the year. As well as having important historical significance as one of the oldest human settlements in Europe, it is also an area of outstanding beauty. The town was designated a UNESCO heritage site in 1980.
The lake itself is more three million years old and contains over 1,200 species of plants and animals 200 of which do not exist anywhere else on the planet. New species continue to be discovered. Because of this, the lake has been referred to as the Balkan Galapagos and the Museum of Living Fossils. There are plenty of beaches around the lake to enjoy; as a general rule, the further out of the town you go, the better the beach.
Ohrid is a town full of churches, but there are some of particular importance that you shouldn’t miss. Possibly the most impressive is the Church of St John at Kaneo, most notable for its scenic location on a cliff overlooking Kaneo Beach and also for the beautiful frescos in the dome. The church itself dates back to before the rise of the Ottoman Empire in the 13th century and there is evidence of Armenian influence in the architecture, particularly in the roof design. Other churches of significance are: St Bogorodica Prelivlepta, with a number of interesting frescos throughout the building; and the Church of St Sophia, which dates back to the 11th century in its current construction. It has a small square in front that served as the main forum in ancient times.
Other things to see in Ohrid are: the fortifications, parts of which have survived from the 3rd century BC; the traditional architecture of the houses and other buildings, built by the Turks who settled in the town and which are unique to Ohrid; and the Antique Theater, the only one existing from Hellenistic times in Macedonia.
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Bitola
Bitola is known in the country as being the most architecturally beautiful of all Macedonian towns and cities. The town has a more European feel than others in the country owing to Bitola being a seat of consuls during the 19th century. They brought European culture with them, in turn influencing the local aristocracy, who built townhouses in the style of the day, Neoclassicism. It also serves as the jumping off point for Pelister National Park, located in the Baba Mountain massif and one of the most southern Balkan mountain areas, which has an alpine character. As well as being a popular skiing resort, the park is home to an incredibly diverse range of flora and fauna.
Bitola is also the site of Heraclea, an ancient Greek city founded by Philip II of Macedon and later ruled by the Romans. Only a few of the remains have been unearthed; you can see a theater, a courthouse, two basilicas, and baths. The main draws of the site are the mosaics of the big basilica from the 5th century.
The old bazaar may not be as large as the one in Skopje, but it is very well-kept and has numerous small squares and fountains, making for a pleasant shopping experience. A stroll down the Dragor River with its many attractive buildings, such as the Bitola University Dean’s building, is also worthwhile.
Prilep
Prilep has a rather strange claim to fame; it is known for being the city of the most famous Macedonian tobacco. All around the city are tobacco fields and if you visit during the summer or fall, you will be able to see the tobacco drying out everywhere. Prilep was the capital of the medieval kingdom of King Vukasin and his son Marko in the 14th century who have both been immortalized in Macedonian and Serbian folk legends as the monarchs who kept out the Turks; when Marko died, the Turks invaded and took control of the area. Due to its history as a medieval capital, the city is home to a number of churches and monasteries as well as the fortress that stands on the hill overlooking the city.
Prilep
Kruševo
As the center of the Vlach minority, a Romance ethnic group native to the Balkans, Kruševo is notable for its unique architecture. Vlach housing is built of stone in the back and has a front ‘bondruk’ construction of wooden columns and beams covered with white plaster. There is almost always a well in the ground floor and the main facade is usually blue. It is also known as one of the centers of the Ilinden Uprising at the beginning of the 20th century, a rebellion against the Ottoman Empire. A museum exists in the town, which gives information on this important event in the country’s history. Aside from the architecture, another point of interest is the Nikola Martinovski gallery; Martinovski was a local-born artist and is considered one of the most important contemporary Macedonian painters. The gallery is located in the house where the artist was born.
Visitor numbers don’t reflect whether you should visit Macedonia or not. If you are interested in history and culture, Macedonia makes the perfect destination.
This monument is the symbol of Kruševo and of the Ilinden Uprising in 1903 against the Ottoman Empire.
Macedonia: Five Places to Visit The Balkan countries in southeastern Europe are popular places to travel right now. Croatia has long had a reputation for being a top beach destination but now more travelers are waking up to the fact that the whole area has much to offer, from majestic mountains and pristine rivers to old bazaars and impressive archaeological sites.
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