#it's a coastal town but between the mountains and you practically need to drive down the mountain road to reach it

[because-its-eurovision]

Happy birthday!!! 🥳🎉🎊✨ I hope it's been lovely 💜

Thank you Maddie ilu 🥰🥳

[harryandmolly]

Complicit // 14 // Final

summary: Shawn is under more pressure than he’s ever known. He craves release and comfort, the simplicity of sex. He gets more than he bargained for.

warnings: language, love, love languages

WC: 8k

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He really, really should’ve had a plan.

But, in all fairness, Shawn’s never done the whole “jump on a 12 hour flight on a whim to chase after the love of his life” thing before, so how could he have been expected to make such a plan?

But still, he thinks, standing against a wall under a baseball cap outside Naples International Airport, he could’ve done some more thinking before all this. Or at least could’ve made a pseudo-plan on the plane.

The most Silver could give him in terms of guidance was the address of the house and that Naples is the closest airport. She’s never been to the “Vineyard” before. When Shawn asked if the “Vineyard” was a nickname or if it meant the house is on an actual vineyard, she didn’t know that either. Not extremely helpful, but he’ll figure it out. He has to.

From what he gathers on Google Maps, sucking up international roaming data charges like nobody’s business, Ravello is about an hour and a half southeast of Naples. Not ideal. But the Amalfi Coast is a pretty big attraction, so he figures there’s probably a train. He just has to find a train station.

On the way out the door with his backpack, the only luggage he bothered to pack, he Googles a train route. 

Walk half an hour to the Calata di… something something and take the N5 to… somewhere and walk 3 minutes to somewhere else to catch a bus to somewhere…

.... no fucking way.

He bites into his lip and squints around. Should he rent a car? He winces. Driving in Italy sounds terrifying. What if he gets into a crash? Who is he supposed to call?

No. He needs to hire a car to take him to Ravello. That’s the plan.

More Googling. More squinting. He’s vaguely grateful that he’s been able to stay under the radar so far. He’s not sure he could handle this and dozens of screaming Italian girls begging for selfies without snapping.

He ducks behind a large leafy fig tree when he sees what looks like a group of middle school-aged girls on a field trip scramble past, squealing and laughing. Close call.

He leans against a column and sighs. Silver also gave him Mia’s personal cell number. He could just call her and tell her he’s here and hope she wants to see him and come pick him up. 

Shawn sighs heavily, pouting. He’s not going to do that. This is his only shot at being a romantic hero, like, ever. He’s not going to pansy out and call her for a ride. He’s going to show the fuck up because that’s what Mia deserves.

Whether she wants to see him is another matter and he’d rather not worry about that until about halfway up her driveway.

He sets off toward the transportation center at a quick stride, curls fluttering between the brim of his cap and his forehead. He swerves suddenly to avoid another throng of young women that look ready for a beach vacation.

He parks in front of a driving service and a tall, unnaturally beautiful blonde man who doesn’t look up at him.

“Uh, ciao?” Shawn tries.

He glances up. Shawn holds his breath for the pop star response. It doesn’t come. He exhales.

“Do you speak English?” Shawn asks, wincing at how ignorant he sounds. The man nods boredly.

“Cool. Uh. Ok. I need to go to Ravello.”

“Si, Ravello. There is a train,” the man drawls, the slowest talking Italian Shawn’s ever met.

Shawn nods, uncertain. “Yeah. Right, yeah. But… can I get a car to drive me?”

The man even blinks slowly. “There is also a bus.”

Does this guy just not want business? Shawn sighs.

“Do you not take people to Ravello?” he tries, looking to bridge whatever gap this is as quickly as possible.

Finally, the man seems to give in. “Ravello is a long drive. 125 euro. We take--”

Shawn slaps his Visa down so fast the man stops abruptly and stares at him. He sees a tinge of crazy in Shawn’s travel-weary eyes. He fights the urge to roll his own and books the trip.

+

Shawn had hoped he’d start to relax in the car since at least then he’d know he was heading somewhere. There was no relaxing to be done.

His driver Giorgio seems to have gotten his start in Formula One. Shawn figures he should be grateful, given that the speed they’re driving at will probably cut the travel time in half. But he can’t help but wonder about the headlines if he dies in a fiery crash against the side of an Italian coastal mountain.

Pop Superstar Shawn Mendes Dies In Search Of Love, Giorgio to Blame

Shawn Mendes Perishes At The Height Of His Career, Unrecognizably Mangled

Shawn Mendes Is An Idiot, Fatally

He’s so sure there’s no way they’ll make it between the two trucks Giorgio decides to squeeze them through, but they do. Shawn slams his eyes shut and focuses on the Cez-approved meditation breathing exercises that, by the way, do not save you from your crazy Italian driver who almost plows into the back of a Peugeot going god knows how fast on the E45.

But at least he points out Mount Vesuvius. And doesn’t crash them into it.

They lose sight of the ocean for a while, which makes Shawn panic. The guy isn’t using a GPS, claims he knows every corner of every town on the Amalfi Coast. That sounded a lot better to Shawn before he got in the car, before they were winding through something called the “Riserva Statale Valle delle Ferriere,” which seems as good a place as any to ditch a body.

Idiot. Idiot. Idiot.

It’s a chant in his head until, by some miracle, he catches sight of the water again and it’s exactly like every Instagram travel post he’s ever seen of the Amalfi Coast. He thanks whatever god there is, and thanks Giorgio, too, who grunts.

Ravello, Shawn’s not surprised to report, is fucking beautiful. Cliffs appear out of nowhere and spill off down bleached white coastline to crystalline turquoise water. It’s a goddamn postcard. The town, from what he can see of it from above, is a scattered board of colorful post-its clinging to the side of a mountain. His hungry brain tells him he can smell fresh pasta and seafood, but he knows it’s just an illusion of a man who ate half an airplane meal and a couple stale biscotti several hours ago.

Rather than descend toward the coast, Giorgio winds him around the hills past farms of lemon trees. The sun hangs low. Shawn thanks his lucky stars that he’s not having to deal with locating this place in the dark.

Giorgio stops at the base of a dirt road sporting a sign with Mia’s address. Shawn practically flings himself out of the car, almost forgetting his backpack. He shoves his Tom Ford sunglasses on against the harsh snap of the late afternoon sun. He looks around. Along the dirt path, hardly even a road, are rows upon rows of grape vines. It seems the house name is literal after all. He’ll be sure to tell Silver if he makes it out of this alive.

He starts walking.

It’s a trudge, really, up a reasonably steep hill. He slips once or twice and puts a knee into the dust, kicking up a froth of it around him that clings to his sweaty skin and white t-shirt. By the time he finds Mia, he’s going to look like he swam and crawled all the way to her. 

Good.

He crests the hill to find… more hills. There are a series of large buildings that don’t look anything like homes, more like warehouses or farmhouses. Given that it’s not yet harvest season, only a few hands are out tending the vines. He descends towards them, probably looking as ridiculous as he ever has in his life.

They seem to want to ignore him. It’s a habit of Italian men, maybe. He has to wave and walk straight up to the closest figure, an older, shorter man with only a few teeth to speak of.

“Ciao. Uh… Mia Bianchi?”

Shawn hopes if she’s the lady of the house, they’ll know to take him to her. The man stares back blankly.

“Uh… dove… Mia Bianchi?” he tries again. The man looks over his shoulder at his coworkers, who’ve stopped to stare at the tall, sunburnt Canadian idiot. Shawn sighs.

He doesn’t even have a picture to show them. She’s the love of his stupid life and he doesn’t even have a picture of her.

Except that he does. He has a lot of them. Black and white and sparkling. And completely inappropriate to be sharing with a bunch of strange farmhands. He grunts and reaches for his phone anyway, nearly dead, just like his chances of making this stupid romantic gesture work.

Shawn zooms in carefully to just her face and shows it to the smaller man. He squints and attempts to touch the screen, but Shawn nearly slaps his hand away.

“Dove Mia Bianchi?” he almost whines.

One of the younger hands strides up and glances at the picture. He exchanges a few words with the others and looks Shawn over. He sighs and nods at a golf cart a few yards away, then walks towards it.

Shawn blinks, then follows.

If nothing else, it’s a faster way to get over the hills. Plus, if he’s on the vineyard, she can’t be far, right?

“Mia?” Shawn asks, eyes wide and hopeful.

The guy shrugs. It’s not very comforting. But Shawn’s out of options, so he gets in the cart.

The hills just keep going. After about ten minutes of cruising along and over them with nothing but vines in sight, he’s suddenly incredibly grateful for the ride. He glances over at his driver, seemingly much more sane than Giorgio.

“Shawn,” Shawn says, pointing to himself with a flat smile and a little wave.

The man nods. “Maurizio.”

“Grazie, Maurizio,” Shawn grunts, sitting back as they ascend another, steeper hill. He worries for a moment about the possibilities of this golf cart skidding back down from whence it came. It becomes unimportant when they reach the peak and he sees a house.

Well, it’s not just a house. It’s practically a palace. From behind it, he can see the way it sprawls over tens of thousands of square feet. There’s a pool, he thinks, and a few different gardens, and it looks like a grove of trees, maybe olive or citrus, he’s not sure. At some point, the path turns from dirt to pebbles and the ride gets louder. It almost drowns out Shawn’s heartbeat in his ears.

Maurizio slows under the shade of two old stone pine trees and turns up a narrow path lined by lush, well-tended gardens replete with color. He takes the curve around the fountain in the center of the path slow enough for Shawn to notice the detailing. The basin of the fountain is held up by a sculpture of a renaissance-style naked woman. Curled against her, with his arm around her hips, is a man helping her hold it up. His face is tucked tenderly into her neck.

The cart stops. Maurizio clears his throat. Shawn stands and steps off.

“Uh, grazie!” he calls as Maurizio starts to gun it back down the path. Maurizio looks back at him and laughs in a way Shawn doesn’t need translated.

You’re a fucking idiot.

Shawn sighs for the millionth time that afternoon. He knows.

It’s golden hour on the coast. Behind the red tiled roof, the sun spills marigold light everywhere it touches, including the belltower on the chapel beside the main house. Green shudders flap gently in the evening breeze. The front door is wide open. The smell of fresh bread has Shawn’s mouth filling with saliva. He starts to head toward the door when he hears something.

Off to the left, down a grassy footpath, he follows it. It’s as familiar to him now as her perfume, as the feeling of her hair in his fingers, as the smile she gives him when he’s very good for her.

He’d know Ol’ Blue Eyes anywhere now.

It’s one of his Italian tracks, playing off a turntable parked in another open door on the side of the house. He drops his bag beside it, smiling when he hears pruning shears and quiet steps. The record sleeve reads “Come Back to Sorrento.”

He takes a deep breath and follows the sound of the shuffling steps. Sinatra’s voice fades as Shawn nears a small grove of olive trees. The grass below his feet is dappled with shade and the streaming sunset light. A breeze rustles a wave of red fabric out behind the trunk of a tree toward the back of the grove. 

Shawn holds his breath, watching a long bronzed leg follow it, stepping backward, then another. She’s on her tiptoes, barefoot in a deeply red mid-length sundress, the cap sleeves fluttering around her arms that follow her focused eyes to the branches above her head. She hasn’t spotted him yet. He could still run. He doesn’t have to stand here until she throws her pruning shears at his head for showing up at her family home unannounced in fucking Italy.

Mia turns her head to check on another branch and he lands in her periphery. Her lips part. Her eyes blow wide like saucers. The shears fall by her feet. She lowers off her toes to face him. The wrap dress hugs her everywhere he’d like to.

“Oh my god,” she breathes, lifting a hand into her hair just as another breeze picks up around them, lifting her dress around her knees to wave at him.

“So… uh… ciao,” Shawn nearly chokes.

+

Mia just stares for a minute. It feels like forever since she’s seen him, even if it’s only been a couple weeks.

He’s fucking glorious even covered in dirt. His hair is a little matted and sweaty, like he was wearing a hat. His white shirt clings to him. His black jeans have patches of dirt on the knees that give her flashbacks to the day she took him to Malibu in her Aston Martin. She shivers.

“What-- I mean, how… I don’t…”

“Silver told me you quit,” he blurts.

Mia’s eyes seem to swell again, then shut as she groans. “She gave you the address.”

“Yeah. I think… I think maybe she wanted you to want to see me.”

Mia chews on the inside of her lip. Another breeze tickles through the olive branches, surrounding them with a light earthy scent. Shawn shifts anxiously on his feet.

“So you just… showed up,” Mia murmurs. It’s a statement of fact, expressionless. She doesn’t sound annoyed or surprised or, to Shawn’s slight disappointment, pleased. But he knew better than to expect that. Or he thinks he should have.

Shawn shrugs. “I think after everything you’ve done for me, you deserve the effort.”

Mia’s lips tuck in slightly at the corners. She nods down at her feet. “Effort, huh?”

Shawn fights the urge to reach for her, even though it feels right. He wants to do this delicately.

Patience. That’s what Silver told him. If there’s anyone besides Mia he should be listening to right now, it’s Silver.

“I came because I want to talk to you. About everything.” His voice sounds impressively calm to his own ears, even as he feels his hands shake.

Mia looks up and immediately past him into the kitchen. She cards a fluttering strand of hair behind her ear and clears her throat.

“I have extra towels. You can clean up in the guest bath.”

She swerves around him and into the house. He stands there in the grove for a moment or two, blinking after her.

+

He’s not knocked out, he’s just… regrouping. That’s what Shawn decides in the shower as he scrubs the salty sweat from his hair and watches reddish dust swirl down the drain.

He was struck dumb when she led him up the stairs to one of what looks like many guest rooms. She got him a fluffy towel and showed him how to work the faucet because it’s a bit tricky. She turned and left without another word.

Shawn didn’t have a speech prepared or anything, he didn’t write a sonnet on the long trudge up to the house, but he didn’t expect her to shut down as soon as he started getting into it, whatever it was going to be. That took the wind out of his sails.

He’s not giving up. Not yet. If after a real conversation she says she does not love him and wants him out of her house, he’ll go. He’ll hold his head high and leave, knowing he put his heart on the line. And he’ll be ok.

Shawn’s breath shakes. He blinks quickly under the spew of warm water above his head. He plants a hand against the wall for stability. It’s the first time he’s let himself think about it, really consider the idea. What if he really actually made all this up in his head? What if she’s really as good as what he pays for and feels nothing for him beyond a professional sort of fondness? Or perhaps worse, what if she’s had feelings, but they’re not enough?

He closes his eyes and slowly scrubs his face with his pruny hands. He’s conspicuously been in the shower a long time. He bets she doesn’t mind -- gives her time to strategize.

Shawn lifts his head and turns off the faucet. He doesn’t want her strategies or her carefully delivered lines. He wants her.

He wants Mia as much as he wants Penny.

+

For once, Mia does something that would make the former owner of this home, her great grandmother, very proud. She sets aside her panic, confusion, irritation and angst and prepares for a guest.

She sets the table. She decants a bottle of Castello di Ama chianti. She hauls the record player back inside and switches over to Dean Martin’s Italian Love Songs and decides not to overthink the choice. She sets to work on a quick spaghetti alla vongole with the clams she bought at the market this morning. Her homemade loaf of ciabatta rests warm in a checkered cloth on the table.

Anything to distract herself.

But then she almost lops off a finger slicing the bread. She nicks the pad of her thumb and gasps, instinctively squeezing her fingers around the wound to staunch the bleeding.

“Hold on, I’ll get a napkin.”

She turns from the counter to see Shawn in a t-shirt and sweats at the bottom of the stairs, his hair shining wet against his neck. He swipes a paper napkin off a credenza and meets her at the counter. She watches him as he checks the cut, dabs it with the paper, wraps his hand around it to apply pressure and holds it over her head.

He looks down at her. “Does it hurt?”

“No, not really,” she murmurs, sounding sheepish.

He’s closer now to her than he was before. Holding her arm over her head seems an oddly intimate gesture between two people who’ve seen and done a lot more. It’s heightened by the way he caresses her palm with his fingers. He doesn’t even seem to notice he’s doing it.

“God, I missed you so much,” he says quietly, shaking his head.

Mia aches with the returning words and lets them rattle through her bones. She’s not going to say them back.

“I really don’t know what you were thinking coming here. Did you cancel work stuff? What about the album? And the tour?”

Shawn seems unfazed. “I’m on a break before we start working on tour promo. I actually went to your house. Got worried when I didn’t see Pammy’s leash outside.”

Mia’s eyes flash with affection. “She’s… staying with Gus for a while.”

Shawn nods slowly. “I bet you miss her.”

Mia’s eyes drop. Her other hand, gripping the counter behind her to keep from grabbing at him, squeezes tighter.

“Of course. All the time.”

After another few seconds of Shawn’s intense staring and Mia’s equally intense avoidance, he lowers her hand. The small cut has stopped bleeding. He cups her palm, kissing it gently. Mia turns away.

Shawn’s head drops. He sighs.

“So. You quit.”

Mia continues slicing bread. “Yes.”

“I’m surprised. I know how happy it made you.”

Mia’s stomach swoops. The ease with which he talks about her profession still strikes her sometimes when she least expects it. He talks about it like it’s any other job, like he never for a second thought to judge her for it.

“It got too complicated. I have other things I wanted to focus on.”

She takes the freshly sliced bread to the table. He follows with the bowls of salad and pasta.

“Like what?” he chirps.

Mia grunts, irritated. “A project. It’s a charitable thing.”

He seems to decide not to push for the moment. She tucks into her bowl of pasta, eager for something to shut him up.

He hums, bobbing his head as he slurps up a bite. “This is fucking great. I didn’t know you can cook.”

She shrugs. “I’m an Italian woman, Shawn. If I can’t cook, I shame my ancestors.”

He smiles as he swallows and reaches for his wine. He looks oddly relaxed, comfortable in her favorite surroundings. It strikes her as odd, suddenly, that he’s here. She’s never brought any non-family member here before. Not even Silver. Definitely not a client.

But Shawn brought himself. He flew 12 hours and, Mia knowing the journey well, probably took trains, buses, ferries and god knows what else to arrive on her doorstep.

She has yet to truly reckon with it. She sips at her own glass and watches him look around.

“This house is incredible. It’s a family place?” he asks.

Mia swallows and nods carefully. “For a long time. My great grandmother was the last one who lived here full time. We sold the vineyard in the 90s. The rest of the estate is still ours.”

Shawn looks around at the vaulted ceilings and the rustic stucco walls and stone floors. A glass door looks out onto a vast back patio strung with twinkle lights that overlooks the acres of vineyard land that used to belong to her family. The farmhands have packed it in for the evening. There’s no one in sight all the way to the horizon, where the sun has burst into flames of pink and gold. Shawn hasn’t felt this far away in a long time.

When he looks back, Mia doesn’t bother to look away. She knows the games are over. Glancing away from his pretty face so he doesn’t catch her staring won’t work anymore. He’s not here for a game. She swallows and feels her heart in her throat.

“I’m sorry it’s taken me so long,” Shawn murmurs. He sits forward across the smooth oak table. The sunset light catches him through the window. It makes his intense gaze even more entrancing. Mia’s fingers twitch around her wineglass.

“Don’t apologize. I don’t think I’m ready to hear whatever it is you’re about to say.”

She watches something flicker in his eyes uncertainly. He wets his lips and seems determined to soldier on.

“Mia, I know this wasn’t the plan. For either of us. It was never supposed to become… this. But I think it’s been something real since at least Vegas. Maybe before. And I think it’s as real to me as it is to you.”

Mia’s heart sprints. She knew what he was going to say. She’s known since he showed up in her little olive grove. She’s not sure why being so close to hearing the words has her pulsating in her own skin. She shifts in her seat.

“Shawn, please…” she begins, shaking her head, “I don’t want to put you through this. I know you’re already here and… god, I still can’t believe you’re here. But I don’t want to make you say it.”

“Why?” he presses, “Why can’t I say it?”

Mia closes her big brown eyes. He misses them immediately.

“Because it’s not going to make a difference. It can’t.”

She opens her eyes when she hears his wooden chair creak. He’s sitting back, his jaw tight, his eyes still on hers. He swirls the wine in his glass absently.

“Tell me I’m crazy. Not for coming out here, not for wanting this with you, tell me I’m crazy and I imagined all of it. Tell me it was all for show, all for money. Tell me Rio wasn’t real, or your house, or my house. Fuck, tell me Vegas wasn’t real. Mia, tell me you don’t love me. Please. If it’s true, please tell me.”

It’s silent. They’re far enough up the mountain from the town of Ravello that there’s no sound but the breeze in the trees and Mia’s heartbeat in her ears. She feels her face going scarlet with every word. Her hand shakes in her lap where he can’t see it.

She sits up tall, channeling Silver, and thumbs at the base of her glass.

“Like I said, it doesn’t make a difference.”

“How could it not?” Shawn hisses. He sits forward again, his gaze imploring, “Mia, it’s the only thing that matters.”

Mia scoffs. It’s patronizing and ugly. Shawn flinches.

“We both know better than that. We’re not teenagers, Shawn. Actually, even if we were, we’d be in the same position. You’ve been very famous for a very long time. I was never an option for you the same way you’ve never been an option for me,” Mia explains, her voice quivering under her false calm.

“Jesus Christ, Mia, you’re not an option,” Shawn spits. His eyes seem to darken, or maybe it’s a trick of the fading sun, “You’re the one. You’re the fucking one.”

Mia’s eyes drift shut as they well up. She lifts her hands into her silky hair and releases a rocky sigh.

“You’re not thinking. You have to think, Shawn, not just feel. This is your whole life we’re talking about. You know I can’t just fit into it. I would be catastrophic for you. Anyone could tell you that. Andrew would be first in line, I bet.”

Shawn stands. He walks to the door and stares at the rolling hills strung with vines like Christmas lights, neat strands growing darker with the night. He crosses his arms over his chest.

“If I let Andrew tell me who I can and can’t be with, my life isn’t mine. I’ve experienced something close enough to that this summer. I know I agreed to it, I know I was complicit in the whole thing, but I’m not interested in that anymore. If that’s where I really am in my life and my career, none of this is worth it. And that’s not even about you, Mia, that’s about me. I won’t put up with that. I’d sooner fucking quit and never play a show again if it meant I couldn’t be with someone I love because of however it looks to some people.”

Mia’s chest shudders. “Don’t say that. Please don’t say that. I can’t live with that, please.”

He whirls on his heel and stares at her, eyes hot. “Don’t say what? That I’d give it up for you if I had to? Fuck, Mia, of course I would. What kind of fucking human being would I be if I picked being famous over the person that I love?”

“Stop, please,” Mia begs, shaking her head, pressing her face into her hands.

She hears him shuffle over the stone to her. His fingers are gentle as they pry her hands off her face. He cups her wrists, massaging them slowly.

“Hey,” he whispers, the aggression in his voice gone as quickly as it came, “It doesn’t matter. That’s not our reality, it doesn’t have to be. I don’t have to make that choice, so neither do you.”

Mia’s lower lip quivers. “Shawn, I don’t think you realize what would really happen if you stood up in front of the whole world and told them you love a whore.”

Shawn releases her hands. The corners of his lips turn down. His eyes are hard and somehow cracked.

“Don’t do that. Don’t say that. I know you don’t even believe that. You’ve never thought of yourself like that, I know you haven’t. You know you’re so much more than that.” His voice grows louder as he continues until he’s shouting.

Her brow furrows. “You don’t know! You don’t know anything! The things I’ve done, the things I’ve said, the things I’ve had done to me. Shawn, if you had an inkling of the depraved… fuck. If you had any idea at all, you wouldn’t be saying this. You probably wouldn’t come near me ever again.”

“Are you trying to scare me?” he barks back, his eyebrows lifting, “Really? Fine. I’ll call that bluff. I’ll sit here with you all night if you want. Tell me everything. Every filthy detail. Sorry, Mia, it’s not that fucking easy. I won’t love you any less.”

“You can say that now! You don’t know, Shawn! You don’t even know me. What do you know? You know my dog, you know my music taste, sure, you know my name. What if everything Penny did was a lie? What if you love a ghost?”

Shawn goes cold. He stiffens all over. She watches it from his eyes down. She freezes in place.

“Don’t try to tell me I love something that isn’t real,” he breathes. There isn’t even a hint of uncertainty in his face or voice. Mia looks down at her feet.

Shawn steps forward again. Slowly, gently, he cups his hands around her neck, his thumbs working softly into her jaw.

“We can talk about image and PR and logistics. We can talk about Andrew and the headlines and the future. But don’t insult me, honey. I know what’s in front of me. I know what I love. I love you. I love you, I love you. We can talk about the rest, but we can’t talk about that. That’s real and it’s not up for discussion.”

Mia’s eyes close, pressing the building tears down her cheeks. Her head lowers in defeat. Shawn’s hands skim down her shoulders to her upper arms. He plants his lips on top of her head and breathes. Two deep inhales, two deep exhales. Then he steps away and heads back up the stairs.

+

Neither of them sleeps that night. He’s in the guest room down the hall from her master suite. At around 3am, she gives up altogether and sits out on her balcony under the crescent moon wrapped in a chenille blanket. She’s convinced that inside she can hear him breathe. 

Meanwhile he sits at the end of his bed, sheets half torn off from his tossing and turning, begging for words. He’s never had to beg before. His artistic, lyrical brain has handed them to him his whole life. Those aren’t the words he needs now. He needs the ones that will convince her.

+

When she wakes up, he’s downstairs in a t-shirt and boxers. His hair is sticking up everywhere. He’s staring hopelessly at her espresso machine. She knows he hears her come down the stairs, but he doesn’t turn around.

Silently, Mia arrives by his side. She presses a few buttons until the machine starts to whir. She reaches up to the cabinet above her and pulls down two tiny espresso cups. When she hands him one, their fingers touch. They both nearly jolt apart.

She spends the morning outside. She gets her white sundress filthy picking citrus off the trees. She hauls baskets and baskets full up to the porch. Each time she brings one up, it disappears and ends up on the counter, but she never sees Shawn move them.

At lunch, he smells more seafood. She glistens with sweat over a deep dutch oven full of hot oil, frying calamari. He slices lemons and opens the bottle of white she has on the counter, pouring them glasses. They eat silently, picking at their salads, letting Rosemary Clooney’s voice do their talking. When he finishes, Shawn looks at Mia. Mia looks up at Shawn. He takes her hand and guides it to his lips, a silent thank you. She lets him touch her for five seconds before she pulls away and heads back out to the lavender garden. When she comes back for dinner, the kitchen is clean and the fruit is stored in the butler’s pantry.

She roasts a chicken with rosemary and thyme, along with some potatoes and carrots and lets him rest his hand on her knee while they finish a bottle of wine.

“I found a guitar upstairs,” he confesses, chewing his wine-stained lower lip.

She glances over at him. “My grandfather’s. It’s old and shitty but yours to use if you want it.”

He nods appreciatively, rubbing his thumb into her warm skin. She aches to rest her fingers on his pulse, just to prove he’s really there.

That night, they clean up together. He walks her to her room and kisses her cheek. She doesn’t hear his footsteps walk away from her door for a long minute after she closes it.

His gentle plucking of the guitar from down the hall puts her to sleep.

+

She’s gone when Shawn wakes up. He lets himself panic for only a minute or two. All her stuff is still here, and this is her house, after all. She returns around lunch in an old pickup truck with bags from the market. Eggs, cream, cocoa, fresh mascarpone. She announces she’s making tiramisu for after their branzino dinner. She smiles a little, tentatively, and it nearly makes him fall at her feet.

Neither of them seems interested in disappearing today the way they did the day before. They hover near each other, rotating positions, swirling like opposing magnets. Shawn keeps the guitar close. Once he gets it in tune, it doesn’t sound too bad. He works on a melody. He thinks it must be good because she’s humming along in the kitchen while she prepares a batch of limoncello and rosemary gelato. 

(He doesn’t know what army she’s cooking for, but he just hopes he gets to be a part of it.)

He finishes the song that afternoon, pacing around the lavender garden with a sprig of it tucked behind his ear. When he’s satisfied and turns to head inside around sunset, he clocks her on a balcony above looking very settled, like she’s been there a while. She’s far enough up that she didn’t hear it, so she must’ve just been watching him.

They eat in silence -- branzino with lemon, citrus salad, arugula with balsamic, then tiramisu for dessert. They nearly finish two bottles of wine, like they’re both preparing to get mouthy. Shawn goes first.

“I think I knew when I bought the necklace. Like, I don’t know how I knew, but I knew. I knew what it would mean to you to have that. I wanted so badly to give you something as meaningful as what you’ve given me.”

Mia stiffens at the sudden conversation after a long drought. She recovers quickly, thanks to the wine.

“What I gave you was sex, Shawn. A lot of it. Really good sex that required you to make no decisions, gave you no responsibility. I took care of you in a way you’ve never been taken care of before.”

His eyes flash and Mia regrets her words immediately.

“If you really think I don’t know the difference between sex and love by now, you must think I’m a fucking moron.”

Mia’s chest deflates as she sighs. “I don’t think you’re a moron.”

“Are you sure? Because you’re treating me like one,” he jabs, draining his wine. She misses his heavy, warm hand on her knee when he stands and starts pacing back and forth in front of the table.

Mia stares at him, tensed with every word she won’t let herself say, every feeling she’s been beating back for months. Her spine aches. Her brain swims. Her mouth is dry.

Shawn stops suddenly so that his boot skids a little on the stone floor. Mia blinks quickly.

He stands in front of her, staring. Slowly, without moving his eyes from hers, he lowers to his knees, turning her in her seat to face him. Having his hands on her again makes her want to scream. She waits, holding her breath.

“I just need you to say it. Please. I know you don’t think it’s enough, so it can’t hurt, right? Because there’s a part of me, the piece I hate, the piece I’ve always hated and that’s always hated me that still wants to convince me it’s not true. So please, please, just once, just say it. Say it if it’s true.”

Mia’s knuckles are white as she grips her chair. They feel oddly detached and wiry when she pries them up, flexes them, and sieves them into his hair. His eyes shut. He lowers his head to rest in her lap. She takes a deep breath.

“I love you, Shawn Mendes.”

+

Mia’s on the counter in an oversized t-shirt, swinging her feet, eating limoncello and rosemary gelato out of the freezer bowl. Shawn stops at the bottom of the stairs and smiles at her. His love for her gets so big it feels ready to explode out of his ears.

He shuffles up to lean beside her at the counter with the extra spoon she offers. They eat quietly, smacking their lips.

“So what’s the charity project?”

He catches her off guard while she puts away the rest of the ice cream. She stands upright, a little too straight, then catches herself and forces herself to relax.

“Uhm… it’s an idea I had a long time ago. A non-profit sort of thing for La Splendeur. A way to look out for the girls that are working jobs like mine but on the street. It’s always seemed so arbitrary to me, you know? The women that wind up as courtesans making hundreds of thousands of dollars a year flying all around the world doing the same thing that women standing on street corners do, constantly putting their lives in danger. Sex work is so odd that way.”

Shawn nods thoughtfully. “How can you help them?”

He watches her brighten a little, scooping hair behind her ears as she explains.

“Resources make all the difference. Women like that end up there because they don’t have resources. We can provide shelter, safety, rehabilitation if necessary. We can start a scholarship fund. We can offer career counseling and interview practice and resume building. Or we can help them organize and stay safe so they don’t end up with pimps. They just need help, and money can provide a lot of that.”

He bobs his head, clearly interested. “So where does the money come from?”

“Philanthropists and investments. Between Silver and I, our network is pretty vast. A lot of the donors will likely prefer to remain anonymous because of the nature of it, but we only need a couple powerful people that would speak up and draw attention. If they say it’s ok to care, it’s ok to care. Julia Granger and Christian Becker could be those people.”

Shawn cracks a smile. “So where are you in all this?”

Mia smiles back, infected by the pride written all over his face. “Silver and I are finalizing the paperwork for the creation of the non-profit. We’ll start approaching investors formally when I get home.”

Shawn ducks his head, turning his enormous, goofy smile down at his feet. “That’s incredible, Mia.”

His voice is gentle, touched. She tingles all over. She wants to run into his arms just to feel them around her again. She locks her own around her chest instead.

“Th-thank you. It’s been a long time coming.”

They lock eyes again. The air sizzles.

Mia smiles sadly. The silence is pregnant with potential headlines written about the Canadian golden boy loving the whore who wants to help the whores. Shawn scrabbles for words to fight them off but comes up choked and huffing breath.

He watches her disappear outside, heading for the vineyard.

+

The bottoms of Mia’s feet are nearly black. She takes a sick sort of pleasure in it. It makes her feel like a kid again, she guesses. Reminds her of chasing Peter around the gazebo, skinning knees, playing “scuba divers” in the pool while their family ate and drank and sang, happier in Ravello than they ever were in New Jersey.

She sits on the swing beneath the pergola, listening to him sing now. The house is so much quieter than it used to be, but no less filled with love. It’s a different kind of love. And despite their desperation to beat it away, it gets stronger every second. Shawn is the strong one, the brave one, she thinks, letting it into his heart before she could. 

Because it’s not like he’s not scared. She knows he is. She can hear it in his voice and see it in the way he holds himself around her. He can’t know what would happen if they made it real -- could they last? Could they manage to see past all the bullshit the papers would surely print and hold on? If they did, would their love be worth anything after all the bulletholes and sharp words?

She hugs her knees to her chest and closes her eyes, leaning into his melody. She has the song memorized now. He keeps playing it the same way like he’s planning on changing something but never does. She already knows it’s perfect.

It’s a love song about tortured yearning, a hidden love, a love that’s bursting, searching for the sunlight. Mia thinks it’s his best ever. She considers herself biased.

After the sun sets, she heads inside. He’s not really playing anymore, just kind of plucking away. She needs to think about getting dinner ready. He’s sweet, offering to cook, since she does so much of it, but she really loves cooking Italian food with Italian ingredients in Italy and won’t think of wasting an opportunity. Plus, she still loves taking care of him.

The stairs to the wine cellar are cool, worn stone. The cellar is built into the foundation of the house, which was once part of a fortress that stood on their property in the 11th century. Now lined with shelves of hundreds of bottles of every variety of Italian wine, it’s one of Mia’s favorite spots.

His footsteps are quiet, too. He’s adopted her barefoot lifestyle. He stops at the bottom of the stairs.

Facing the wall of dolcettos from the 80s, Mia twirls a finger around a protruding bottle, covered in dust, with a foil cap.

“I used to hide down here when Peter and I played hide and seek. For some reason he never thought to look down here. I always thought it was so obvious.”

Shawn steps closer, hands in the pockets of his jeans, shoulders slightly hunched.

“Maybe he wanted to let you win.”

Mia smirks, looking over her shoulder at him. “Maybe.”

She turns, her arms crossed behind her back, leaning against a shelf. He fixes his eyes on hers, biting the inside of his lip.

“I’m not… I mean, I’m not saying it would be easy,” Shawn murmurs, rubbing at the back of his sunburnt neck, “I know better than anyone how it all works. I don’t want you to think I’m just ready to throw us both to the wolves. I wouldn’t do that to you or to us. I just want to talk about it, for real. I… I know we’re worth it, honey.”

Mia’s chest inflates. She tilts her eyes up at the low ceiling. Her tears start hot and fast.

“I could be the thing that ruins everything you worked so hard for. I don’t want that for either of us. I’m not sorry about who I am or what I’ve done, despite what I’ve said. But that doesn’t mean I’m ready to be ripped apart publicly for it. That kind of attention puts more pressure on a relationship than either of us is really prepared for. You have to know that.”

Shawn nods slowly. “I do. I know. I don’t want that for you or for me. But I don’t think that’s the only outcome possible. I think this would take a lot of thought and discussion about what we’re both comfortable with. And it’s going to take some of both of us… letting go a little. Which I know isn’t your favorite thing.” He looks at her pointedly, the corner of his mouth lifting.

Mia chuckles for the first time in days. “Point taken.”

Shawn senses cracks in the veneer with the way she’s looking at him now, like she actually might be considering it, all of it. For him. With him.

He takes a chance, and takes her hand.

“And the most important thing is we go at our own pace. We… I mean, obviously, we’ve done and seen a lot already. And I know I have so much left to learn about you. We can focus on that first, just getting to know each other more. I know how to make a relationship really loud, but I know how to keep it quiet, too. If that’s what you want.”

She looks down at their entwined fingers. She blinks quickly and feels her heart rate pick up, like her body knows something her mind hasn’t decided yet. She swallows and looks back up at him.

“I’ve never been both Penny and Mia with one person before. Because I know I am both. Penny’s as much a part of me as Mia is. I got good at letting them share my body because they never inhabited it at the same time. I’m still trying to figure out how that’s supposed to work. How I’m going to be caretaker and businesswoman, domme and girlfriend. I don’t know how to be someone who wants to be honest and upfront about my history and also wants a big white wedding and a couple kids. So if I don’t know how to do that, be that, how can you know and love that about me?”

Shawn’s smile is cautious but warm. He scoops up her other hand and cradles them close to his chest. He’s not afraid of showing her how his heart is clanging around in his chest. She’s had a piece of it in her body for a while now.

“Because it’s you, Mi. Whether or not you’ve meant to, you’ve let me know both. I’ve loved both this whole time. I just want the chance to be there with you as you figure it out.”

Mia looks up at him. She thinks about the night they met -- watching him come completely undone, taking a sip from his glass, waking up to see him slam his eyes shut to pretend he wasn’t watching her. She sees the same look of wonder in his eyes now as he looks down at her, all of her. Mia always knew she was worth loving. Having someone else figure that out was always the part she wasn’t sure of. But she’s sure now. He is, too.

Mia pulls her hands from his, sliding them up his chest. She plucks at the curls at the back of his neck, tugging him closer as she presses back against the shelf. Shawn’s breath hitches in his chest. His hands fall to her hips.

Mia nods, no words of protest left. His lips are gentle against hers, confident and calm. She lets him take the lead this time.

--------------

Grazie mille 💜

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[duncanbarker-blog]

The Road to Hana is one of the best things to do in Maui (and all of Hawaii). This road trip along the north shore of the island to the less visited eastern side takes place on a narrow winding road through lush rainforest.

Along the way you can stop at waterfalls, gardens, black, red and golden beaches, bamboo forests, and snack stands serving delicious homemade banana bread.

You can choose to be active and hike through the jungle to hidden waterfalls or stay close to your car and still see plenty.

You can drive the Road to Hana yourself in a rental car or take a private or group bus tour. I highly recommend driving yourself as long as you are a confident driver as you’ll have the flexibility to visit where you want for as long as you want.

There are a huge number of potential Road to Hana stops and it’s impossible to see them all in one or even two or three days, so it’s important to plan a few priorities in advance. The best stops are near Hana, so don’t do too much in the early stages and end up exhausted when you reach the good stuff.

Wai‘anapanapa State Park and its black sand beach is one of the best places to visit on the Road to Hana

Most people drive the Road to Hana in one (very long) day, starting early (6 am is best) and returning the same way they came. A few people continue past Hana and return to West Maui via the Back Road to Hana (more on that below).

We did things differently and stayed in Hana for two nights, and I’m so glad we had more time in this beautiful area.

In this post I’ll share why I think you should stay in Hana, the best Road to Hana stops, and useful tips to make the most of the journey, whether you decide to do it in just one day or more.

How Long is the Road to Hana?

The Road to Hana (officially known as the Hana Highway) is 64.4 miles (103.6 km) long. It includes Hawaii Routes 36 and 360 and connects Kahului (Maui’s largest town and home of the airport) with the small town of Hana in East Maui.

The road takes two to three hours to drive without any stops as it’s windy and narrow with many hairpin turns and one-lane bridges where you have to wait for oncoming traffic to pass. With stops you can easily spend 12 hours on the return journey along the Road to Hana.

A section of the Road to Hana between Hana and Oheo Gulch

Despite the name, one of the major attractions on the Road to Hana is 10 miles past Hana. The Pipiwai Trail in Haleakala National Park, where you can hike through a beautiful bamboo forest, is well worth adding to your itinerary and is a priority for many (including us). The Seven Sacred Pools at Oheo Gulch are also located here.

The bamboo forest on the Pipiwai Trail is one of the best Road to Hana stops

If you’re making a day trip, you’ll need to consider how long it will take you to get to the start in Paia from where you are staying. From West and South Maui (where you’ll likely spend most of your time on Maui) this will add an extra 30 to 60 minutes.

Road to Hana Map

Why Stay in Hana

Everyone says the Road to Hana is all about the journey, not the destination, and recommends not even stopping in Hana as it’s a boring small town. I wholeheartedly disagree.

The Road to Hana is the most beautiful part of Maui, so why rush through it on an exhausting day trip? Even staying in Hana for one night will give you time to explore at a more leisurely pace.

You’ll also be close to two of the most popular attractions, so the next morning you can hike the Pipiwai Trail or visit the famous black sand beach at Wai‘anapanapa State Park before the crowds arrive.

The black sand beach at Wai‘anapanapa State Park

If you stay for two nights, you can visit both places early in the morning, as we did. We had the first half of the Pipiwai Trail entirely to ourselves, and it was wonderfully peaceful (in the afternoon it’s a very different experience).

People say Hana itself is dull, but we found it a lovely little town. It may not have any obvious attractions if you rush through, but I fell in love with it when taking a stroll in the late afternoon.

Hana is described as what Hawaii used to be like, and we found it the least Americanised place we visited with no big supermarkets, strip malls, or fast food restaurants. It reminded us more of the relaxed pace of life and lushness of South Pacific villages.

The sleepy town between the mountains and the sea is green and pretty with wooden houses and grassy lawns full of banana trees and hibiscus plants. We wandered past cows grazing in fields, wooden churches backed by mountains, and the school where kids played baseball while parents laughed and cheered on the sidelines. It was by far the most multi-cultural place we visited in Hawaii.

Wananalua Congregational Church in Hana

We’d heard that the town shuts down in the evenings so we brought food to self-cater, but we didn’t need it as there’s a great cluster of food trucks as well as a wonderfully quirky General Store.

There’s so much to do in this beautiful area that we could have happily spent a week here, soaking up the relaxed atmosphere and visiting the nearby beaches and hikes.

This gorgeous red sand beach is a short walk from the centre of Hana

If you want nightlife and shopping, Hana is not the place for you, but if you appreciate quieter places, it’s well worth spending some of your time on Maui here.

And I think everyone should consider spending a night in Hana, either at the beginning or end of your trip, to enjoy the Road to Hana without the crowds or rush.

You’ll find tips on where to stay and eat in Hana near the end of this post.

The view from our condo balcony at Hana Kai

Road to Hana Tips

App and Guidebook

There’s no cell signal for most of the Road to Hana so you’ll need to plan your navigation. I recommend downloading the GyPSy app, which is a guided audio tour of the road. It works offline, gives you information about the sights along the way, and most usefully on this narrow road, warns you of upcoming turnings to attractions (if you miss a turn it’s difficult to find a place to turn around).

If you are keen to visit some off-the-beaten-track spots, I recommend the guidebook Maui Revealed which includes an extensive list of places to visit on the Road to Hana.

Luggage

If you decide to spend a night in Hana, you’ll likely have your luggage with you in your car. We were worried about this as we’d heard that car break-ins were common and we should never leave luggage unattended. I think it’s fine as long as you practice caution.

Make sure everything is hidden out of sight in the trunk and don’t open it along the route. Keep your most important things (cash, passports, camera) with you. And stick to the more visited spots where there are plenty of other cars and people around. If you turn up at a deserted parking area with broken glass on the ground, don’t leave your vehicle there.

Food

It’s not a bad idea to bring a picnic lunch, but there are a few simple food stalls along the way. Best of all, there are many stands where you can buy homemade banana bread and other sweet treats. Make sure you take advantage of these as you’ll regret it later if you don’t stock up. We’ve written about our favourites below.

What to Pack

Wear shoes suitable for hiking (hiking sandals are ideal although your feet may get muddy) and bring water, sunscreen, insect repellant, and enough cash for the day (many stands don’t take cards). If you plan to swim at one of the waterfalls or beaches, bring a towel and wear your swimsuit under your clothes, as there isn’t often places to get changed.

Fill up your car with gas before you head off.

The Back Road to Hana

The road past Hana and Oheo Gulch along the southeast coast of Maui is known as the Back Road to Hana. Most people don’t continue on this road as they’ve heard horror stories about its terrible condition. This is out of date and most of the road is now paved, although there are some bumpy unpaved sections.

We were fine in a regular car, but if you are a nervous driver you probably want to skip it (but then you probably shouldn’t drive the Road to Hana anyway).

We also heard that driving this road voided your rental car agreement, but we didn’t see anything like this in our contract.

If you don’t have time to stay in Hana as we did, consider driving the route in reverse, starting with the Back Road to Hana, as you’ll get to the Pipwai Trail first when you have the most energy. Our friends Tom and Jenny recommend this strategy. 

A Multi-Day Road to Hana Itinerary

Below I have included the best Road to Hana stops in the order that most people will reach them driving from Paia to Hana (and slightly beyond).

If you have two nights in Hana, here’s our itinerary which allowed us to visit the most popular places early in the morning.

Day 1

10 am – Arrive at the airport and rent a car.

11 am – Pick up a packed lunch at Mana Foods in Paia.

11.30am – Set off on the Road to Hana! We stopped at everywhere on the list below until Upper Waikani Falls and left the rest for the following days.

2.45pm – Arrive in Hana (3 hours 15 minutes from Paia with stops) and check-in to our condo at Hana Kai. We relaxed, wandered the town, and had a food truck dinner.

Day 2

7 am – Left for the Pipiwai Trail (a 35-minute drive past Hana) and visited the Seven Sacred Falls first.

8 am – Started the Pipiwai Trail hike which took two hours return.

10 am – Headed back to Hana with short stops at Wailua Falls, Koki and Hamoa beaches.

11 am – Lunch at our condo.

1 pm – Walked to Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach (20 minutes) and swam and relaxed there.

4 pm – Back to our condo then out for a walk and food truck dinner.

Day 3

8.15am – Left for Wai‘anapanapa State Park.

8.30am – Arrived at the park and walked along the coastal trails and black sand beach.

9.30am – Left the park and picked up coffee and baked goods at Hana Farms.

10.30am – Checked out of Hana Kai and drove the Back Road from Hana to Makawao in Upcountry.

Our Top 5 Road to Hana Picks

If you only have one day you won’t have time for all of the Road to Hana stops below. Our favourites (marked with stars on the list) are:

Rainbow Eucalyptus Trees

Hana Farms Snack Stand

Wai‘anapanapa State Park (black sand beach)

Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach (for confident hikers only)

Pipiwai Trail (bamboo forest)

Best Road to Hana Stops

For each stop, I have included the approximate Mile Marker (MM) where it is located on Route 360. Note that the mile markers change after Hana and count down from 51.

1) Paia and Ho’okipa Beach

The hippy beach town of Paia is the first interesting stop on the Road to Hana, but it’s best to visit another time and prioritise more remote attractions.

The health food supermarket Mana Foods is an excellent place to stock up on snacks and lunch as it has a large salad and hot food bar.

Just past Paia is Ho’okipa Lookout where you can get a good view of surfers and windsurfers riding the huge waves and many turtles on the beach below.

2) Rainbow Eucalyptus Trees (MM 6.7)*

This isn’t a well-known attraction, but it’s definitely worth a stop. By the side of the road between mile markers 6 and 7 (about 30 minutes past Paia) is a cluster of beautiful rainbow eucalyptus trees. You’ll see them on the left and will need to drive a little further along to find a place to park.

These unusual trees have multi-coloured bark that peels off revealing new bark below in streaks of vibrant orange, green and blue. It’s hard to believe they are real.

After you have wandered through the main grove by the road, follow a short trail up behind these to see a huge and even more beautiful rainbow eucalyptus. Just beyond that you can also see a lovely ocean view.

Unfortunately, many people have carved their names into these trees—please don’t do this!

3) Ke’anae Peninsula Viewpoint (MM 13)

On your way to the next stop, look out for a pull off by the side of the road just past Kaumahina State Wayside Park where you can get a view of the Ke’anae Peninsula.

4) Ke’anae Arboretum (MM 16.7)

We chose to skip the Garden of Eden Arboretum ($15 entrance) and visit the free Ke’anae Arboretum instead (30–40 minutes from the rainbow eucalyptus grove). We enjoyed a pleasant 30-minute walk on the easy but sometimes muddy trail through a variety of trees.

If you missed the rainbow eucalyptus trees earlier, definitely stop here as you can see more of them. There’s also a banyan tree, papaya trees, and a taro field at the end of the trail.

If you’ve spent a lot of time in the tropics, it’s nothing spectacular but it’s a nice place to stretch your legs.

5) Ke’anae Peninsula and Aunty Sandy’s Banana Bread (Turn off at MM 16.8)

The Ke’anae Peninsula is a short diversion from the main road and the turnoff is just past the Ke’anae Arboretum on the left.

Drive to the end of the peninsula where you’ll find a parking lot, baseball field, and public toilets. There’s a pretty view of the coastline and the waves crashing into the rocks.

Return the way you came and stop at the snack stand Aunty Sandy’s for your first banana bread of the day. Our loaf ($6) was warm and moist and was our favourite on the Road to Hana. You can also buy drinks, ice-cream, hot dogs, and sandwiches.

6) Halfway to Hana Snack Stand (Just past MM 17)

Back on the Hana Highway it’s only a few minutes to Ching’s Pond (just before MM 17) which is supposed to be a good place for a swim, but we missed the turnoff.

Just past this is the Halfway to Hana snack stand where we bought another loaf of banana bread ($6). It was good but not as good as Aunty Sandy’s or another upcoming stand, so if you have a limited banana bread budget, you could skip it.

It took us 30 minutes to get from Ke’anae Arboretum to Halfway to Hana with the peninsula diversion.

7) Upper Waikani Falls (Between MM 19 & 20)

Five minutes past Halfway to Hana is Upper Waikani Falls (sometimes called Three Bears Falls). There’s no parking at the falls so drive about 800ft past to the parking area and walk back to the bridge for a view of the waterfall. You can also walk down to the pool, but the short trail is steep and slippery. You can swim here.

This was our last stop for the day as we continued on to Hana and came back to explore the rest on another day. If you start in the morning, you should still have plenty of time to continue with the next stops.

8) Coconut Glens Ice-Cream (MM 27.5)

Coconut Glens is an ice-cream truck that serves delicious dairy-free coconut ice-cream. They also have a truck in Hana which we visited later.

9) Nahiku Marketplace (MM 29)

If you want lunch at this point, stop at Nahiku Marketplace, a cluster of rustic food stands about 25 minutes past Upper Waikani Falls. We didn’t stop here but the food (Thai, tacos, barbecue) is supposed to be good, and you can also pick up locally made souvenirs like coconut candy.

10) Hana Lava Tube (Turn off past MM 31)

We’d planned to visit this lava tube just off the main road the following day but ran out of time. Our friends loved it, though. It’s $12 for a self-guided tour through a natural lava tunnel. Allow about 30 minutes.

11) Hana Farms Snack Stand (Just past MM 31)*

If you only have time for one snack stand, this one just before Wai‘anapanapa State Park was our favourite. Hana Farms has an array of baked goods, foodie souvenirs (like a tasty pineapple lime hot sauce), as well as coffee and sandwiches.

The banana bread here is great and comes in a few varieties—the chocolate chip banana bread ($7) is particularly decadent. We still dream about the delicious chocolate macadamia nut cookies here—we shared one as it was humongous but later wished we’d stocked up.

12) Wai‘anapanapa State Park and Black Sand Beach (MM 32)*

Walk along the coastal path past the black sand beach to get to this viewpoint

Wai‘anapanapa State Park is probably the most popular stop on the Road to Hana and you won’t want to miss it. It’s famous for the beautiful black sand Pa‘iloa Beach, and you can also walk along the coast for gorgeous views and visit a sea cave, blowhole, and lava fields. The ocean is usually too rough for swimming.

I loved the contrast between the jet black sand, vibrant green hills and deep blue ocean. We visited the park at 8.30am on our last day in Hana (it’s only 10 minutes away) when the light was beautiful and there were only a few other people around (8 am would be even better). We spent an hour here, but you could spend longer if you hike further along the coast.

You can camp here so this would be a good budget place to stay on this side of the island.

13) Hana Town (MM 34)

Just ten minutes further on and you’ve finally reached Hana! As I wrote above, we loved Hana but if you only have one day I understand why people don’t stop.

The only real attraction is the red sand beach (see below), but it’s also worth stopping at the quirky old-school General Store where they sell everything from saws to beer to souvenirs (fresh food is limited).

For fresh fruit, there are lots of honesty fruit stands around Hana where you can help yourself (and leave cash behind) to locally grown passionfruit, apple bananas, pineapple, guava, papaya and more.

Honesty fruit stand between Hana and Oheo Gulch

There are only a few restaurants in town, but opposite Hana Ranch there’s an appealing cluster of food trucks with limited hours (the pizza place is Sundays only!). We had some surprisingly good Thai at Ae’s Thai Kitchen (12–7 pm Wednesdays to Sundays usually) where most dishes can be made vegan ($11 a dish).

On our second night, we enjoyed our cheapest meal in Hawaii at the Surfing Burro food truck. The veggie tacos ($4 each) were made with homemade corn tortillas and generously filled with vegetables, cheese, cabbage, and delicious salsa and chipotle sauce. Simon enjoyed his rice and bean veggie burrito ($8) too.

We finished our meal at the Coconut Glen’s truck with tasty dairy-free coconut ice-cream ($7 for two large scoops).

Food trucks in Hana

Other food trucks in Hana that we didn’t try are Thai Food by Pranee and Braddah Hutts BBQ Grill which are both only open for lunch.

In the evenings it’s best to eat at one of the trucks before 7 pm; otherwise there are two much more expensive restaurants open later: Hana Ranch (until 8.30pm) and The Preserve Kitchen at Travaasa (6–9 pm, reservations recommended, expensive).

14) Kaihalulu Red Sand Beach*

The red sand beach in Hana is unique and was our favourite beach in Maui.

WARNING: This is not a good stop for everyone. Access is along a short but narrow and slippery dirt trail close to the cliff edge. People have been seriously injured here and needed air rescue.

I don’t recommend it if it has been raining or for small children or anyone unsteady on their feet, scared of heights, or not used to trails. We saw some people struggling down the steep sections.

The trail starts through some bushes across the lawn next to the community centre (it’s marked on Google Maps). It took us 10 minutes and we didn’t find it too difficult, but you should wear decent shoes (no flip flops) and be careful.

The absolutely lovely beach is made of red and black volcanic pebbles and sand and has a hidden cove feeling backed by tall rust red cliffs and green ironwood trees. It was fairly busy in the afternoon, but there was enough space for everyone to spread out, and I’m sure it’d be quiet in the mornings.

The rocks protect the cove so the sea is often swimmable. We managed fine but we could feel the power of the waves and wouldn’t recommend it for children. You absolutely should not swim out past the opening in the rocks—we saw someone get stuck and have to be rescued (by another visitor—there are no lifeguards or facilities).

Please be respectful and don’t leave any litter behind or take any sand or rocks with you.

We spent a relaxing afternoon here, something we wouldn’t have been able to do if we were rushing to do the Road to Hana in one day.

15) Koki and Hamoa Beaches (MM 50)

Just past Hana are two more beaches that are worth a quick stop and neither were busy in the morning. You can drive a loop along the coast to them both then reconnect to the main road.

Koki Beach has brownish sand and a lovely red cliff backdrop, but there are signs warning against swimming.

Koki Beach 

Hamoa Beach has greyish sand and bright blue water. This would be a lovely place to hang out on days when it’s suitable for swimming (it was too wavy when we visited). There are bathrooms here.

Hamoa Beach

16) Wailua Falls (MM 45)

About 25 minutes past Hana is Wailua Falls, a pretty 80-foot waterfall that’s good for swimming. You can view it from the bridge or walk down a short steep trail to the pool.

We visited just after 10 am after hiking the Pipiwai Trail (on our way back to Hana) and there were only a few other people around.

17) Ohe’o Gulch and Pipiwai Trail (Bamboo Forest) (MM 42)*

35 minutes past Hana on a rather bumpy potholed road is the Kipahulu section of Haleakala National Park, also called Ohe’o Gulch.

Many people come to visit the Seven Sacred Pools which is accessed along an easy 0.5-mile trail from the visitor centre. Unfortunately, you can no longer swim here or get very close, and when we visited in January there wasn’t much water, so it was rather a letdown. I wouldn’t bother coming out here unless you are planning to hike at least some of the Pipiwai Trail (which starts a short walk away).

The Pipiwai Trail is a four mile out and back hike through lush rainforest that took us two hours. There are some uphill sections and it’s uneven and muddy in places, but we didn’t find it difficult. Hiking sandals were perfect (although our feet got dirty) as it was hot and humid. Insect repellant is a good idea.

The highlight of the trail is the massive bamboo grove which starts about halfway through the outward section. It’s the most extensive and beautiful grove we’ve seen (and we’ve spent a lot of time in Japan). There’s also a large banyan tree and some smaller waterfalls along the way.

At the end of the trail is the 400 ft waterfall Waimoku Falls which drops dramatically down a sheer cliff face in a jungle setting that gave it a Jurassic Park vibe. From here you turn around and walk back the way you came.

We started the hike at 8 am (the benefit of staying in Hana) and didn’t see a single person on the first half—it was so lovely and peaceful. On our way back we crossed paths with about 20 people.

Entrance to Haleakala National Park is $25 (valid for three days) and includes access to the Summit area of the park in Upcountry where you can see the sunrise above the volcano.

This is most people’s final stop on the Road to Hana and they turn around here and drive back the way they came. I recommend continuing on to Upcountry.

The Back Road from Hana to Upcountry

After our two nights in Hana, we continued and drove the Back Road to Hana to Upcountry where we stayed in Makawao.

The road was not as bad as the horror stories we’d heard. There is a bumpy unpaved section but it didn’t last long and then it’s a smooth road the rest of the way. The scenery is very different on this side of the island with long golden grasses, brown rolling hills, and ocean views. It’s very quiet.

Hotels in Hana

I hope I’ve convinced you it’s worthing staying in Hana, at least for a night. Accommodation is limited so book as far in advance as possible.

There’s one luxury resort in town, the Travaasa Hana. The rooms look beautiful and there are plenty of activities on the extensive grounds, but it’s very expensive (over $600). 

Other than that it’s mostly small B&Bs and cottages—search for options on Airbnb and VRBO—plus the one condo hotel where we stayed.

Hana Kai Oceanfront Condos

We stayed at Hana Kai condos and absolutely loved it—it was our favourite place we stayed in Hawaii.

The location is superb overlooking an empty black sand beach. Most of the condos have ocean views and you hear nothing but the crashing of waves and the buzz of cicadas. Waking up to the sunrise over the ocean was glorious. It’s a short walk to the food trucks in town and the red sand beach.

The view from our bed at sunrise at Hana Kai

We stayed in Condo a studio apartment on the upper floor of the second building back. Although it wasn’t oceanfront, we could see over the lower building to the beach and ocean. Whenever I can see the ocean from my bed it makes me happy!

The condo has a high ceiling, lots of light from the sliding doors that lead to a lanai, a comfortable bed, armchairs, and a surprisingly well-equipped kitchen. There’s no air conditioning but the fan and breezes from the screened door were plenty.

Hana Kai is the perfect place to relax after driving the Road to Hana and is well located for many of the major attractions. I highly recommend it and would love to go back myself (and stay a week!).

We paid $360 a night including taxes in high season. There are cheaper units available. You can book direct or on VRBO. 

Camping

There’s a campsite at Wai‘anapanapa State Park, a 10-minute drive from Hana, that would be a budget place to stay in a gorgeous location. Basic one-bedroom cabins (that sleep six) cost $90 per night (two-night minimum) or bring your own tent and pay $18 per night.

You can make reservations on the Wai‘anapanapa State Park website—you must get a permit in advance and print it out. Arrive before 6 pm.

There’s also a campsite at Kipahulu which would be convenient for hiking the Pipiwai Trail but a bit far from any restaurants or shops. Reservations are not required.

Hana Camping Under the Stars rents tents and all the gear you need for camping (pick up in Kihei). 

Summary

The Road to Hana is undoubtedly a Maui highlight, and even if you only have one day, I highly recommend it. But if you can, do consider staying in Hana for a taste of Old Hawaii and a chance to experience this beautiful area at a slower pace.

If you are visiting Kauai as well as Maui, check out our posts on the best things to do in Kauai and where to stay in Kauai. 

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Tips For Renting A Car In Ireland

Ireland Driving Guide

Renting a car in Ireland and driving around the country yourself is a wonderful way to experience the Emerald Isle. But here’s some advice about the best way to do it.

When my family and I were planning our genealogy trip to Ireland to learn more about our ancestors, we were initially hesitant about renting a car to explore the country by ourselves.

Ireland has a bit of a reputation for narrow and scary winding roads!

Plus of course, they drive on the other side of the road, so there’s that. But the more we researched, the more we realized renting a car in Ireland would allow us to make our itinerary as imaginative as possible.

I love the freedom of road trips and planning my own travel itineraries. Ireland is such a diverse country that it made sense to rent a car so we could stop anywhere to discover small villages, castles, and go hiking in the mountains at our own pace.

Here are some important tips we learned from our experience renting a car in Ireland, to help you save money and stay safe while driving around the country!

How To Rent A Car In Ireland

Driving in Ireland for Tourists

Should You Rent A Car In Ireland?

Hey, if you love those big group bus tours, by all means, go book one. It’s a decent way to see Ireland if you don’t have a lot of time.

No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work!

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure of independent travel.

No set schedule or timetable — driving around Ireland with the freedom to stop anyplace cool you find along the way.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, renting a car in Ireland is the way to go!

Just keep in mind that some of the backroads in Ireland can be very narrow, and often feel like a single lane (but they’re not). With some practice, you’ll gain confidence on them!

Another nice thing we enjoyed about having a car was the ability to store things in the trunk, stopping off in Irish towns with small daypacks rather than hauling luggage everywhere.

Learning to Drive on the Opposite Side!

Where To Rent Your Car In Ireland

The best site to book your car is Discover Car Hire. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

We rented our car from Dublin Airport after spending a few days in the city. Our South West route brought us to Cork on the M8 before moving on to Killarney National Park and then Glengarriff, where my grandmother was born.

After tracking down our family history in this small coastal fishing village, we drove North on the Wild Atlantic Way up to Dingle and the famous Cliffs of Moher, then to Galway, and finally back to Dublin.

However there are many different road trip routes you can choose when driving in Ireland. Other major airports to consider picking up a car are Shannon in the Southwest and Cork in the Southeast.

Crazy Irish Winding Roads!

The Amazing Cliffs of Moher

Car Rental Insurance In Ireland

Some of the rumors about driving in Ireland are true, and the roads are VERY narrow in areas. Especially the backroads outside Ireland’s smaller towns. Don’t worry, I’ll share some tips for dealing with them below.

This is why I highly recommend getting full insurance coverage.

Typically, rental cars in Ireland come with a basic Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), but this isn’t exactly insurance, and only covers the car for up to €1000-3000 EUROS worth of damage.

This is the amount they hold on your credit card until you return the car in one piece. CDW typically does not include tire, cracked windshield, or undercarriage damage either.

While you can often save money booking your car with a credit card that includes car rental insurance, you REALLY must read the fine print, because many people wrongly assume their card covers them in Ireland.

If you get in a wreck driving in Ireland, declined full coverage, and you suddenly learn your credit card doesn’t actually cover the damage — you’re screwed. I can’t tell you how many travel horror stories I’ve heard like this…

It’s why I usually pre-book full coverage online. It’s cheaper than at the counter — and then you won’t have to worry about accidents at all!

The Stunning Cobh Cathedral

How Much Does It Cost To Rent A Car In Ireland?

Renting a car in Ireland is going to cost you around $25-$40 USD a day, depending on the type of car you get. Our 4 door sedan was about $30 per day.

I recommend renting a car with an actual trunk (no hatchbacks) to hide your luggage from prying eyes. It helps to prevent break-ins if thieves can’t see your stuff.

Gas Prices

Gas (petrol) prices in Ireland might seem cheap to Americans, but remember that the rest of the world quotes gas in Liters, not Gallons (1 Gallon = 3.78 Liters). Currently, gas costs about $5.90 per gallon (€1.40 per liter) in Ireland. Diesel cars will often save you some money on gas.

Automatic vs Manual

Automatic cars are more expensive to rent than manual cars (but manuals are more common in Ireland), and you must specify what type you want when booking.

One-Way Rentals

There’s also an additional fee for one-way car rentals, which can vary by company. For example, if you want to drop off the car in a different city than you started from.

Admin Fee

If you opt to use your own credit card insurance, companies will charge you an “admin fee” of about €30 EURO.

Credit Card Fee

I was charged an extra €5 EURO just for using a credit card. Which is strange to me, but typical in Ireland.

Irish Taxes

Car rentals in Ireland have a very high tax rate of 13.6%. Ouch!

Age Requirements For Renting A Car

The minimum age for driving in Ireland is 18 years old, however most car rental companies enforce their own age limit of 21 years old to rent a car. They also charge an additional fee if you’re under 24 years old.

Driving Through the Town of Killarney

Irish Driving Laws Tourists Should Know

The most confusing part of driving in Ireland for most tourists is driving on the left side of the road — with the driver’s seat on the right side of the car.

If you’ve never been to a country that drives on the left, it’s wise to practice a bit in a small town before you head onto the highways of Ireland.

For example, just North of Dublin Airport is the town of Swords. Maybe spend an hour or two getting the hang of driving there before you enter Dublin or onto the main highways.

While challenging at first, especially if driving a manual, you’ll get the hang of it quickly and will be ready to explore Ireland by car in no time!

The speed limit on local roads is generally around 80 km/h while on national highways it’s up to 100 km/h.

International Driver’s License

No, you do not need an international driver’s license to drive in Ireland or rent a car there. Just bring your passport, credit card, and your driver’s license from your home country.

Ross Castle at Sunrise

Helpful Tips For Driving In Ireland

Watch out for sheep! In many smaller towns, local shepherds move their sheep on the roads. You can easily round a sharp bend and find yourself stuck behind a huge flock walking down the road.

Narrow backroads in Ireland don’t have standard break-down lanes as we have in America. There’s often no room for error or pulling over.

Sometimes your side-view mirror will be inches away from stone walls or hedges while passing other cars! It can make driving here nerve-wracking.

Remember to carry some cash for road tolls on Ireland’s major highways. Irish tolls can cost between $1-$3 for a passenger car.

In the countryside, some roads are truly single lane, but with traffic in both directions. In these situations, there are pull-outs so one of you can pull over for the other to pass.

USEFUL TIP: Buy a cheap “learner” sticker (L) sold at gas stations so locals don’t get pissed off at your incompetence on their roads!

The Colorful Town of Glengarriff, Ireland

Advice For Renting A Car In Ireland

You don’t need a rental car for Dublin itself. Parking can be a pain and Dublin is very walkable with excellent public transportation too.

If you’re starting your trip in Dublin, maybe book a rental car when you’re ready to leave the city, for exploring the rest of the country.

Don’t book a car without reading the company reviews. You’ll find plenty of bad reviews for every company (people love to complain online), but try to pick one with the LEAST bad reviews.

You may not always get the make/model/type of car you booked. If they give you a smaller car, or a manual when you asked for an automatic, be pushy and ask for an upgrade.

Inspect your car thoroughly and record video on your smartphone pointing out damage before you leave. This is a backup if they attempt to charge you for damage that was already there.

Pay attention to if your car takes regular petrol or diesel fuel, so you fill up with the correct type at gas stations.

Use Google Maps on your smartphone for directions. Bring your own hands-free adapter and buy an Irish SIM card at the airport.

Enjoy Your Ireland Road Trip!

Exploring the small villages, ancient castles, green mountains, and coastal cliffs of Ireland in a rental car was definitely the right choice for us.

Self-drive road trips get off the beaten track to see things most people miss! ★

Check Car Rental Prices & Availability In Ireland

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Car Hire is a great site for comparing car prices to find the best deal. They search both local & international rental companies.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

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READ MORE FROM IRELAND

How To Visit The Cliffs Of Moher The Best Of Dublin Travel Guide My Irish Genealogy Road Trip Claiming Irish Citizenship By Descent

Any questions about driving or renting a car in Ireland? Are you planning a road trip there? Drop me a message in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

[seekingenjoyment]

New Zealand, South Island

Today is Friday, August 3rd in New Zealand and Cai and I have now been in New Zealand for three weeks! The first week while somewhat uneventful was followed by what has been an amazingly busy second two weeks. Last Monday Cai and I flew out of Auckland with three friends to road trip the South Island. The trip started in Christchurch and ended in Queenstown, and although there is only about a 6-hour drive between the two, we took several detours and traveled the south for 9 days. 

1st Stop: Christchurch and Arthur’s Pass National Park 

The first comment I can make about Christchurch is in regard to our accommodation. In hopes of saving some money, we experimented with couch surfing; defined by urban dictionary as “a cheap form of lodging used mainly by college-students or recent college-grads, where one stays on acquaintance’s couches rather than a hotel”. Our first night and couch surfing experience was not pleasant but definitely formed some good memories and low expectations for the rest of the trip. In the simplest terms, the place was disgusting and we all left feeling the need to shower and wash dog hair off of our clothes. The second night at a new couch surfing destination was wonderful. A house of young Argentinians hosted us and offered us a nice clean place to stay – warm and welcoming. 

Our first full day was spent driving on Summit Road, a windy road outside of Christchurch that takes you along a dormant volcano and town called Akaroa. Beautiful views and a cute little town were a great way to start the trip, especially when accompanied by an amazing meal at a local place called Bacon Brothers. Bacon Brothers is a restaurant found in one of the new dining spots in Christchurch call “Little High”, an eatery with an assortment of pop-up style restaurants. The best part of the meal was their fried cauliflower, which was covered in a honey sauce, so Cai thought we had won the lottery. Also getting a taste of the local scene, we went to a pub quiz that evening and I was valued by the team to answer any question about the States. For example: (Category: Devil) “What U.S. hockey team is known as the Devils?” 

The second day we spent the morning wandering the streets of the center city. This was a humbling experience and really put things into perspective. Following the devastating earthquakes of 2010/11, Christchurch remains a broken city. Covered in construction and little traffic, it is apparent that there is still so much rebuilding to come about. What is incredible though, are the efforts in place to rebuild the city and form new structures that are low cost and able to withstand the impact of another earthquake. Places like the container mall, the cardboard cathedral, and other new builds are all efficient and prepared to withstand the earthquakes to come in the future. 

Following our morning in the city, we left the nice city weather in hopes of finding the same two hours away in Arthur’s Pass National Park. Little did we know, we would not be greeted by sunshine, but instead heavy rain. After driving two hours we wouldn’t let the rain stop us, so we put on some ponchos and trekked on. Here we were able to go on two short walks to see waterfalls, one being the Avalanche Creek Falls and the more reputable of the two the “Devil’s Punchbowl”. Despite the poor weather, we left with smiles and new adventures. 

2nd Stop: Oamaru 

After an overnight stop in Geraldine, we woke up to news that due to a snow storm, the next stop on our road trip route could not be reached. On top of that, the entire country was expecting rain for the entire day. So, we booked ourselves into a beautiful house in Oamaru for a day of relaxation and hopes of an evening adventure to see the blue colony penguins. Based on conversations with locals, 5:30 p.m. was our best chance to see the penguins because that is when they come to shore after a day’s work at sea hunting for food. Sneaking around the coastal docks as suggested by the information center, we found ourselves peeking through a gate for a free view of the penguins entering the local observatory… $30 per person to enter. So although a bit in the distance, we watched the blue colony penguins swim in with the current and reach the shore. 

The following day after being sure the roads had started to clear, we started our drive to our third stop, Mt. Cook Village. Before getting far, we stopped at the Elephant rocks. Not only did one rock resemble an elephant, but the entire area was filled with overwhelmingly large rocks. Along our drive to Mt. Cook we also drove along Lake Aviemore giving us scenic views along the ride. 

3rd Stop: Mt. Cook Village and Lake Pukaki

Mt. Cook was Cai’s favorite part of our trip, and arguably mine as well, and the day was made even better by beautiful weather. Driving up to Lake Pukaki, I was speechless. Bright blue water and large snow covered mountains were surrounding us and a long windy road took us along the lake to Mt. Cook Village. From here we were able to see Mt. Cook in the distance, surrounded by other amazing mountains. To get a closer look we walked part of the Kea Peak Trail, which if we had made it further would have taken us to an even better view of the mountain. Due to time of day, snow, and the temperature drop as the sun fell behind the mountains, we cut the walk short and settled on decent views until we return. 

4th Stop: Wanaka

 Following Mt. Cook, it was time to back track and make our way down to Wanaka for the night and a short morning walk. Wanaka is a beautiful small town on surrounding Roy’s Bay, part of Lake Wanaka. This town has lots of amazing walks to offer and mountains for skiing, but due to time and weather conditions, we opted to take a walk around Roy’s Bay for again beautiful lake and mountain views. Along our walk we also saw the well known “Wanaka Tree”, a tree that is often submerged in water from the bay. Overall, I look forward to going back to Wanaka and hope to take a day’s hike to Roy’s Peak, a beautiful viewpoint! 

5th Stop: Queenstown

Leaving Wanaka, we planned to head to Te Anau, a stopover town to go to Milford Sound. Queenstown, however, is on route. Unsure of what weather we would have when we got back to Queenstown in a couple of days, we decided to stop in for a walk up to the Queenstown Skyline Complex where you have views of the area and surrounding lakes. After the walk, it was time to move on to Te Anau and Milford Sound. 

6th Stop: Te Anau and Milford Sound

 Te Anau was more of a stop over location on the way to Milford Sound despite again offering picturesque views. We did, however, stop at a local pub for an overpriced dinner and a chance to watch rugby with the locals. 

Arriving at our accommodation after dark, we were amazed to wake up in Te Anau to a private view of snow capped mountains, again, breathtaking. After getting over the view, we quickly got moving to Fiordland National Park, home of Milford Sound. We were catching an early afternoon cruise through the Milford Sound. Arriving in just the nick of time, we boarded the cruise and enjoyed a beautiful, but very cold, two-hour cruise among the waterfalls and peaks. We make two small stops on the way out of the National Park before heading back to Te Anau for another night, but there was no time to waste because they were closing the road out early due to an avalanche warning! Needless to say, we didn’t feel the need to stick around and find out what was going to happen next. 

7th Stop: Back to Queenstown

Another ugly rainy day as we left Te Anau and made our way back to Queenstown. That being said, 9 days of travel and only 2 days with bad weather during New Zealand winter, we weren’t too upset about it. We decided to use the day to relax and go for a walk around town when the rain had settled. Walking around we realized we could all do with a fun night out, and Queenstown seemed like the place to do it, so we went to pick up some beer to have before going to the hostel hosted dinner at a nearby bar. So, we walk up to the hostel, beer in hand, and they stop us saying… “Sorry, this is a dry hostel, you’ll have to turn that in at the front desk”. So where were we supposed to drink all of these cans when it is rainy and we can’t drink at the hostel? We went to the car. After already spending hours and hours in this car, it was practically home anyways. It was an interesting experience… but we managed to make it work and have a good time! 

The next day we went to Arrowtown, a nearby historic gold mining village that looked like a movie set. After a walk around some art galleries, a sweet shop, and old time buildings, we found ourselves hungry and ready for Queenstown’s best known burgers at Fergburger. Yes, they were great burgers, but Cai and I were still talking about the burgers we had at Bacon Brothers and our honey cauliflower in Christchurch so they won in our books! After a good feeding, we walked to the Queenstown gardens where we played 18 “holes” of Frisbee golf. Cai did great, I didn’t do so well… 

The Trek Back to Christchurch 

As the trip came to an end, Cai and I left our friends in Queenstown and had a 6-hour drive back to Christchurch to catch a flight back to Auckland. Having missed a stop in Tekapo on the way down, we drove through on the way back for a sneak peek, but otherwise just made a few brief stops to break up the ride. 

Eager to return to a warmer climate, we were excited to get back to Auckland, and eager to start making money after our spending, the job search has begun. Wish us luck and stay tuned for more updates soon! 

Cai’s Two-Cents: New Zealand’s remarkable scenery and highways make for an unforgettable road trip even in a laden Nissan Tiida 

Pictures to follow

[businessliveme]

Travel Diaries: Places That Stole The Heart in 2019

(Bloomberg) –Full disclosure: 2019 was not my typical travel year. Where I traveled, how I got there, how frequently I hit the road—everything was different. In no small part, that’s because I spent the year either pregnant or caring for a newborn.

By January the globe shrunk down to places where the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention had no active Zika classification—in other words, a handful of options outside Europe. In March it shrunk further, when I was no longer allowed to fly. (How does a travel editor survive?) Finally, in the first two months of my new daughter’s life—up until her first vaccines—I practically fenced myself into the neighborhoods around my home. It was an exercise in appreciating the treasures in my own backyard rather than the far-flung spots that have typically struck my fancy.

It was surprisingly lovely, but it didn’t last. My baby had her passport—and Global Entry—before she turned 4 months old. (Yes, she had to go to JFK for an “interview” screening. It was ludicrous.) And I’ve already broadened her world across the Atlantic. Next year will be promising for both of us; so far we plan to travel together every month until at least June, mostly internationally. One day, I hope, she’ll look back on this and realize how lucky she was. (Perhaps when she loosely retraces our footsteps in her own adulthood.) But right now, here are the five places that I’m most grateful to have explored in this life-changing year.

Brooklyn, N.Y.

Drop your eyebrows. People from all around the world come to see what the fuss is about my home turf, and it’s easy to take that for granted when life moves at a punishingly fast pace. But the six months I spent on maternity leave (thanks, Bloomberg!) were full of slow, leisurely days pushing a stroller up and down every block within a three-mile radius, from the old Italian neighborhood of Carroll Gardens to touristy Dumbo, from brownstone-filled Clinton Hill to the elevated waterfront promenade of Brooklyn Heights. And when I say every block, I mean it. After discovering a handful of tiny hidden streets flanked with stunning historic homes, I took to Google Maps and charted out every minuscule lane, place, or mews I could find, then beelined there while my kiddo dozed in her UppaBaby snug seat. (These adventures often included one-handed treats, like dirty chai lattes and croissants from Bien Cuit or chicken teriyaki onigiri from JuJu, a no-frills Japanese bodega in Cobble Hill.) What I found were troves of history, unique styles of architecture, and tons of secret gardens—an idyllic, picturesque, and little-known Brooklyn that’s so worth seeking out.

Read: These Are the World’s Most Liveable Cities in 2019

St. Barts

I’ll never forget what it felt like to sit down in the lobby of Villa Marie and look at photos of the same room in the same hotel, only months earlier, when it had no roof and wind-swept furnishings were strewn about. St. Barts is a place that I hold dear, and I’m hardly alone in the sentiment—it’s the rare island of which my sun-phobic husband approves, and its varied topographical charms give it far more dimension than your typical fly-and-flop beach retreat. This time around, my visit was equal parts sobering and inspiring. I mourned the loss of small beachside businesses that were literally blown away by Hurricane Irma and celebrated the rebirth of iconic spots like Nikki Beach and Eden Roc, which were all coming back better than ever. It was a first-hand lesson in resilience that left me feeling more optimistic and hopeful than any other trip I took all year.

The Bahamas

It feels especially ironic now, in hindsight, to compare the Bahamas to St. Barts in 2019. While the latter’s Irma-inflicted wounds didn’t become mainstream media fodder, the Bahamas took a far harder hit from Hurricane Dorian, and the damage to its tourism economy ended up fully in the public eye. Yes, $8 billion in damages were sustained as a result of the storm, mainly in the northwestern Abaco Islands. But the vast majority of the archipelago went unharmed—a fact that most travelers have failed to understand. As a result, tourism has plummeted, right when it’s needed most.

I visited in February, five months before the 185-mile-per-hour winds swept through. My destination: Kamalame Cay, a relaxed private island resort off the coast of Andros. Getting there negates the easy-access appeal of Nassau; after landing in the capital, you have to take another short flight, get driven to a ferry dock, then sail across a channel before arriving on property. But being there is one of the most relaxed experiences anywhere—luxury here means getting to know staff on a first-name basis, finding tidy breakfast baskets outside your room before sunrise, leaving your bungalow door unlocked, “hijacking” the resort puppies for in-room cuddles, and watching rays zoom through the clearest waters you’ve ever seen. It’s less like being at a fussy, five-star oasis and more like visiting your wealthy friends at their home away from home.

Read: Dubai clinches top travel & business destination awards for 2019

The Berkshires

When I first learned about Tourists Welcome, a converted motel in the tiny town of North Adams, Mass., I tried hard not to roll my eyes. Despite being a reference to the signs once donned by the area’s roadside inns, the name pained me, and the fact that it was owned by Wilco’s bassist and his friends made me skeptical of how it might deliver on anything other than Instagram bait. But I was curious, and a location within driving distance—plus last-minute availability over the Fourth of July—made it ideal for baby’s first vacation.

It took less than an hour for me to toss aside my assumptions and start drinking the Kool-Aid. Tourists Welcome brims with summer camp conviviality: Between outdoor cookouts, an indie-folk soundtrack, and a canteenlike front desk, it’s chill in all the right ways. It fosters an atmosphere where it’s oddly easy to strike up conversation with total strangers—and where families with kids of all ages can coexist seamlessly with weekending couples and celebrities. (In the spirit of the place, I’ll stay mum on which major TV star we ran into.) The service was unbuttoned but not slow; the design was comfortable but endlessly photogenic; and the saltwater pool was so warm, I watched my 2-month-old fall asleep in it (while lounging in a flamingo-shaped baby float, natch). Plus, there’s loads to do. We hiked a section of the Appalachian Trail one day and ogled giant Sol LeWitt murals at Mass MoCa the next.

It’s no wonder this single hotel became the must-visit spot of the summer for anyone within driving distance. The appeal is undeniable; it just happens to look good on Instagram, too.

Mallorca (and Barcelona)

While I initially thought a destination in a nearby time zone would make sense for our first big trip as a family of three, my desire to expose our daughter to Spanish—my first language­—and love for Europe set us on a more ambitious track. Now Mallorca is the place I can’t get out of my head. Its rocky, Tramuntana mountain range cuts along the northwest coast, and within its craggy peaks are nestled tiny, cobblestoned villages that look like Van Gogh paintings washed in Mediterranean light.

We split our time between Deia, a picturesque speck of a town where the spectacular Belmond La Residencia is based, and Port Soller, a slightly larger coastal village that’s especially popular with German beach-going families. At the former, we took lazy walks through olive groves and bought orange jam from a woman’s front porch—made with fruit from her own citrus trees. At the latter, we spent pool days at the cliff-top and family-friendly Jumeirah Port Soller, ate paella by the sea, and watched a particularly charming, 100-year-old tram pass by the boardwalk a few times a day.

Read: Golden trip hacks from a Guinness World Record holder for travel

The trip also marked baby’s first missed flight, thanks to an hourslong weather delay on our return flight to New York. And yet, getting stranded in Barcelona may have been the biggest blessing of all. We’d already spent a few days there at the beginning of our trip, happily cocooned in luxury at the spectacular new Almanac Hotel. But our delay coincided with the city’s biggest annual holiday, La Mercè, and all of the bustling streets we’d strolled were shut down to car traffic and filled with all sorts of festivities from concerts to parades. In a stroke of serendipity we witnessed competitions for traditional sardana dancing and gigantic human pyramids outside the city’s namesake cathedral—one of the coolest cultural experiences I’ve ever seen. For a planning-obsessed new mom, it was a refreshing reminder that the best things in life are often unscripted—and fully left to chance.

The post Travel Diaries: Places That Stole The Heart in 2019 appeared first on Businessliveme.com.

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[wikitopx]

With a superb central space compound by a stunning stream, quick access to some tremendous coastal areas, and probably the simplest overall weather of any inhabitant capital, state capital incorporates a metric weight unit to supply each guest and residents.

While it should not nevertheless have the international fame that its southern brothers Sydney and Melbourne presently get pleasure from, this is often quickly dynamic as its name for providing a perfect balance of activities, attractions and atmosphere is more and more obvious. The city’s CBD may be a nice example of urban designing, whereas areas accenting the outside, the cultural, quality looking and area all on the market among straightforward reach of 1 another.

[toc]

1. Explore Brisbane by Bicycle

One of the core reasons Brisbane is such a pleasurable town to pay time in is that it lacks plenty of the hemmed-in feeling several different capitals around the world tend to own. nice lengths are taken to supply various ways of conveyance to assist alleviate tie-up, with its glorious CityCat water taxi system being one example, and its expansive quantity of bikeways and ways being another.

Ideal for obtaining round the town despite if you’re an area creating the daily commute to figure or a traveler wanting to explore a number of the city’s most scenic spots, athletics offers a relaxed, family-friendly and healthy thanks to absorbing Queensland’s capital.

This is often increased by the town’s comprehensive CityCycle system that enables the general public rental of bikes from a variety of terminals dotted around the city, which means that you’ll rarely be in an exceedingly spot wherever a motorbike isn't accessible close.

2. See the Whales with Brisbane Whale Watching

Brisbane’s coastal side and straightforward access to the open ocean build it a town that blends all the advantages of contemporary urban construction with much stress for enjoying water-based activities, with its picture stream, city district areas and near islands all being prime samples of this.

Heading out on the water in some type is so a requirement whereas you’re here, and through the yearly whale look season Brisbane offers a good chance to induce out and see the light giants of the ocean, because the calm waters of the adjacent Moreton Bay, supply an area for the Humpbacks and Southern Rights to rest and have a tendency to their young.

Brisbane’s whale look season takes place between June and Nov annually, and operator Brisbane Whale look provides eager participants with the possibility to go out on the water and encounter the foremost active of all whales.

3. Cruise the Brisbane River with Kookaburra River Queens

Brisbane wouldn’t be state capital while not its painting stream, that was an outsized reason for the town is settled within the initial place and continues to the current day to function a concentration for several of the city’s activities and attractions.

In short, you haven’t really “experienced” state capital unless you’ve seen the town from the viewpoint of the water, and one amongst the additional distinctive and tranquil ways that for doing thus is obtainable by Dacelo gigas stream Queens.

The stars of the show here ar the old-style wheel vessels which will typically be seen plying their trade around the city’s waterways, and add a vintage bit to the proceedings whereas harking back to the previous days of water navigation.

These are beautiful, beautifully-constructed 30m boats consisting for the most part of wood created utilizing stylish wright techniques, and their peaceful nature once creating their approach down the stream belies the powerful diesel engines chugging below deck.

4. Get Active with Adventure Moreton Island

Not all of the state capital region’s aquatic-oriented adventure square measure strictly relaxed and scenic; those howling waters that surround state capital gift lots of chance for additional active sorts to commence any range of water sports and shore-based fun in addition.

A good deal of this can be owed to the islands that sit simply offshore from the state capital, the foremost accessible and obvious of that is Moreton Island that lies simply twenty-five kilometers aloof from town and is one thing of a stunning very little resort-escape hub for state capital residents.

While it’s Associate in Nursing passing widespread destination for Brisbanites to chill and idle the day away within the sun, operator journey Moreton Island take things within the different direction – if you’re searching for some upbeat “fun within the sun” whether or not on the sand or within the water, this can be the place to begin.

5. The Workshops Rail Museum

Got kids? You’ll need to scan this one. whereas because of its nature as an outsized town state capital has lots of things to examine and do for youths, for a very distinctive day trip that may keep the youngsters happy you’ll be got to travel a touch more abroad.

Located in Ipswich around forty minutes’ drive outside state capital town, merely place the Workshops Rail depository is one among the simplest attractions within the bigger South East QLD space for youths, serving as a very active exhibit that highlights the history and contribution that rail has created to the event of Queensland and Australia as an entire.

The ability puts a great deal of effort into creating things as interactive as doable, so as to not solely entertain however conjointly educate children (and adults as well!) while not them becoming bored or distracted.

6. Riverlife Adventure Centre

Looking to require your Brisbane-based out of doors adventures to the subsequent level? If the likes of abseiling, mountaineering, kayaking and a lot of piquing your interest, make certain to pay a visit to the popular Riverlife journey Centre set at Brisbane’s pouched mammal purpose.

Located among Brisbane’s historic service Stores, Riverlife options a combination of scheduled tour-based activities likewise as instrumentality rent for a spread of outside recreation and has, therefore, become a go-to destination for those trying to urge active while not going away the boundaries of the town.

Additionally to the raw fun of the activities themselves, Riverlife conjointly offers journeys that aim to spotlight and detail the state capital region’s Aboriginal culture, which may be practiced on a tour conducted via kayak to selected areas of the banks of the state capital stream.

7. Climb the Brisbane Story Bridge

One of Brisbane’s most evident and distinctive landmarks, the Brisbane Story Bridge goes an extended thanks to adding its own sense of character to the town.

Whereas it's going to not have the celebrity of its massive brother, the Harbour Bridge down in state capital, the Brisbane Story Bridge makes for no less a powerful thanks to reading town from a supremely scenic viewpoint and, like Sydney’s bridge, the Brisbane Story Bridge is one among the sole 3 bridges within the world that may be climbed.

Thus the choice exists for those wanting a combined adventure/outstanding panorama to require the plunge and climb it for themselves, providing one among the most effective views within the region.

The Story Bridge, that spans the Brisbane watercourse and connects the popular Southbank district to the CBD, measures seventy-four meters tall at its apex, which makes for a climb that's difficult however safe, creating it an acceptable activity for all ages and fitness levels.

8. Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

In terms of life attractions, state capital suffers a small amount compared to alternative capital cities and regional destinations because it lacks a real flagship facility appropriate of a town of its stature – the recent closure of long icon Alma Park facility was another blow during this regard.

Luckily, however, it will still boast the initial ‘Home of the Koalas’ in Australia and one amongst the foremost reprehensively underrated life attractions within the country, Lone Pine Sanctuary that lies simply to the north of Brisbane’s CBD.

Able to be visited during a straightforward 15-minute drive from the town center, or via taking one amongst the scenic stream ferry choices which will deliver you from your stop of option to the life sanctuary’s threshold, it’s Associate in a Nursing attraction that deserves a lot of substance on the national stage.

Set amongst stunning natural Australian bush surroundings, Lone Pine is way a lot of a literal sanctuary than an advert facility, that is mirrored each in its perspective towards animal welfare and therefore the attitudes of its workers.

9. Enjoy the Arts and Museums at Brisbane’s Cultural Centre

Looking for every day go into state capital that gives a serving to of sophistication and culture, all for a really modest price?

Walking the road between “cheap” and “free” looking on whether or not or not their ar special exhibitions being control, the entertainment-rich cultural district adjacent to Brisbane’s South Bank city district space provides variety of opportunities to induce your fix of civilisation and history, enjoying host to numerous art galleries, museums and exhibits all at intervals some pleasantly clean and fashionable surrounds.

The Queensland Cultural Centre as it’s far-famed permits you to immerse yourself in an exceeding world of creativeness each recent and new and is a superb example of a town providing locals and guests alike with an easy-to-access dose of historical exhibits, art and a lot of.

10. Spend some time at South Bank Parklands

Most major cities have one signature district, landmark or space that helps offer them their own distinct character and function some extent of pride, and Brisbane’s answer to the current is its outstanding South Bank district.

Simply put, the South Bank space has the foremost pleasant overall atmosphere to be found in state capital that blends everything town will well into one focal point; outlooks over the state capital watercourse, the Cultural Centre higher than, its massive Wheel of state capital and many of expansive grassed and shaded areas, there square measure few higher places to expertise what state capital is all regarding.

Modern, extraordinarily well-maintained and lined with stylish cafes, restaurants, encompassing parks, and a man-made beach, this is often an excellent place to unwind and relax and perhaps even swim.

More ideals for you: Top 10 things to do in Rotterdam

From : https://wikitopx.com/travel/top-10-things-to-do-in-brisbane-705193.html

[marymperezga]

Things You Should Know Before Renting A Car & Driving In Ireland

Tips For Renting A Car In Ireland

Ireland Driving Guide

Renting a car in Ireland and driving around the country yourself is a wonderful way to experience the Emerald Isle. But here’s some advice about the best way to do it.

When my family and I were planning our genealogy trip to Ireland to learn more about our ancestors, we were initially hesitant about renting a car to explore the country by ourselves.

Ireland has a bit of a reputation for narrow and scary winding roads!

Plus of course, they drive on the other side of the road, so there’s that. But the more we researched, the more we realized renting a car in Ireland would allow us to make our itinerary as imaginative as possible.

I love the freedom of road trips and planning my own travel itineraries. Ireland is such a diverse country that it made sense to rent a car so we could stop anywhere to discover small villages, castles, and ancient ruins at our own pace.

Here are some important tips we learned from our experience renting a car in Ireland, to help you save money and stay safe while driving around the country!

How To Rent A Car In Ireland

Driving in Ireland for Tourists

Should You Rent A Car In Ireland?

Hey, if you love those big group bus tours, by all means, go book one. It’s a decent way to see Ireland if you don’t have a lot of time.

No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work!

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure of independent travel.

No set schedule or timetable — driving around Ireland with the freedom to stop anyplace cool you find along the way.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, renting a car in Ireland is the way to go!

Just keep in mind that some of the backroads in Ireland can be very narrow, and often feel like a single lane (but they’re not). With some practice, you’ll gain confidence on them!

Another nice thing we enjoyed about having a car was the ability to store things in the trunk, stopping off in Irish towns with small daypacks rather than hauling luggage everywhere.

Learning to Drive on the Opposite Side!

Where To Rent Your Car In Ireland

The best site to book your car is Discover Car Hire. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

We rented our car from Dublin Airport after spending a few days in the city. Our South West route brought us to Cork on the M8 before moving on to Killarney National Park and then Glengarriff, where my grandmother was born.

After tracking down our family history in this small coastal fishing village, we drove North on the Wild Atlantic Way up to Dingle and the famous Cliffs of Moher, then to Galway, and finally back to Dublin.

However there are many different road trip routes you can choose when driving in Ireland. Other major airports to consider picking up a car are Shannon in the Southwest and Cork in the Southeast.

Crazy Irish Winding Roads!

The Amazing Cliffs of Moher

Car Rental Insurance In Ireland

Some of the rumors about driving in Ireland are true, and the roads are VERY narrow in areas. Especially the backroads outside Ireland’s smaller towns. Don’t worry, I’ll share some tips for dealing with them below.

This is why I highly recommend getting full insurance coverage.

Typically, rental cars in Ireland come with a basic Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), but this isn’t exactly insurance, and only covers the car for up to €1000-3000 EUROS worth of damage.

This is the amount they hold on your credit card until you return the car in one piece. CDW typically does not include tire, cracked windshield, or undercarriage damage either.

While you can often save money booking your car with a credit card that includes car rental insurance, you REALLY must read the fine print, because many people wrongly assume their card covers them in Ireland.

If you get in a wreck driving in Ireland, declined full coverage, and you suddenly learn your credit card doesn’t actually cover the damage — you’re screwed. I can’t tell you how many travel horror stories I’ve heard like this…

It’s why I usually pre-book full coverage online. It’s cheaper than at the counter — and then you won’t have to worry about accidents at all!

The Stunning Cobh Cathedral

How Much Does It Cost To Rent A Car In Ireland?

Renting a car in Ireland is going to cost you around $25-$40 USD a day, depending on the type of car you get. Our 4 door sedan was about $30 per day.

I recommend renting a car with an actual trunk (no hatchbacks) to hide your luggage from prying eyes. It helps to prevent break-ins if thieves can’t see your stuff.

Gas Prices

Gas (petrol) prices in Ireland might seem cheap to Americans, but remember that the rest of the world quotes gas in Liters, not Gallons (1 Gallon = 3.78 Liters). Currently, gas costs about $5.90 per gallon (€1.40 per liter) in Ireland. Diesel cars will often save you some money on gas.

Automatic vs Manual

Automatic cars are more expensive to rent than manual cars (but manuals are more common in Ireland), and you must specify what type you want when booking.

One-Way Rentals

There’s also an additional fee for one-way car rentals, which can vary by company. For example, if you want to drop off the car in a different city than you started from.

Admin Fee

If you opt to use your own credit card insurance, companies will charge you an “admin fee” of about €30 EURO.

Credit Card Fee

I was charged an extra €5 EURO just for using a credit card. Which is strange to me, but typical in Ireland.

Irish Taxes

Car rentals in Ireland have a very high tax rate of 13.6%. Ouch!

Age Requirements For Renting A Car

The minimum age for driving in Ireland is 18 years old, however most car rental companies enforce their own age limit of 21 years old to rent a car. They also charge an additional fee if you’re under 24 years old.

Driving Through the Town of Killarney

Irish Driving Laws Tourists Should Know

The most confusing part of driving in Ireland for most tourists is driving on the left side of the road — with the driver’s seat on the right side of the car.

If you’ve never been to a country that drives on the left, it’s wise to practice a bit in a small town before you head onto the highways of Ireland.

For example, just North of Dublin Airport is the town of Swords. Maybe spend an hour or two getting the hang of driving there before you enter Dublin or onto the main highways.

While challenging at first, especially if driving a manual, you’ll get the hang of it quickly and will be ready to explore Ireland by car in no time!

The speed limit on local roads is generally around 80 km/h while on national highways it’s up to 100 km/h.

International Driver’s License

No, you do not need an international driver’s license to drive in Ireland or rent a car there. Just bring your passport, credit card, and your driver’s license from your home country.

Ross Castle at Sunrise

Helpful Tips For Driving In Ireland

Watch out for sheep! In many smaller towns, local shepherds move their sheep on the roads. You can easily round a sharp bend and find yourself stuck behind a huge flock walking down the road.

Narrow backroads in Ireland don’t have standard break-down lanes as we have in America. There’s often no room for error or pulling over.

Sometimes your side-view mirror will be inches away from stone walls or hedges while passing other cars! It can make driving here nerve-wracking.

Remember to carry some cash for road tolls on Ireland’s major highways. Irish tolls can cost between $1-$3 for a passenger car.

In the countryside, some roads are truly single lane, but with traffic in both directions. In these situations, there are pull-outs so one of you can pull over for the other to pass.

USEFUL TIP: Buy a cheap “learner” sticker (L) sold at gas stations so locals don’t get pissed off at your incompetence on their roads!

The Colorful Town of Glengarriff, Ireland

Advice For Renting A Car In Ireland

You don’t need a rental car for Dublin itself. Parking can be a pain and Dublin is very walkable with excellent public transportation too.

If you’re starting your trip in Dublin, maybe book a rental car when you’re ready to leave the city, for exploring the rest of the country.

Don’t book a car without reading the company reviews. You’ll find plenty of bad reviews for every company (people love to complain online), but try to pick one with the LEAST bad reviews.

You may not always get the make/model/type of car you booked. If they give you a smaller car, or a manual when you asked for an automatic, be pushy and ask for an upgrade.

Inspect your car thoroughly and record video on your smartphone pointing out damage before you leave. This is a backup if they attempt to charge you for damage that was already there.

Pay attention to if your car takes regular petrol or diesel fuel, so you fill up with the correct type at gas stations.

Use Google Maps on your smartphone for directions. Bring your own hands-free adapter and buy an Irish SIM card at the airport.

Enjoy Your Ireland Road Trip!

Exploring the small villages, ancient castles, green mountains, and coastal cliffs of Ireland in a rental car was definitely the right choice for us.

Self-drive road trips get off the beaten track to see things most people miss! ★

➜ Check Car Rental Prices & Availability In Ireland

Travel Planning Resources For Ireland

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Car Hire is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

Enjoy This Post? Pin It!

READ MORE FROM IRELAND

How To Visit The Cliffs Of Moher The Best Of Dublin Travel Guide My Irish Genealogy Road Trip Claiming Irish Citizenship By Decent

Any questions about driving or renting a car in Ireland? Are you planning a road trip there? Drop me a message in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

from Tips For Traveling https://expertvagabond.com/renting-car-in-ireland/

[kevingbakeruk]

Things You Should Know Before Renting A Car & Driving In Ireland

Tips For Renting A Car In Ireland

Ireland Driving Guide

Renting a car in Ireland and driving around the country yourself is a wonderful way to experience the Emerald Isle. But here’s some advice about the best way to do it.

When my family and I were planning our genealogy trip to Ireland to learn more about our ancestors, we were initially hesitant about renting a car to explore the country by ourselves.

Ireland has a bit of a reputation for narrow and scary winding roads!

Plus of course, they drive on the other side of the road, so there’s that. But the more we researched, the more we realized renting a car in Ireland would allow us to make our itinerary as imaginative as possible.

I love the freedom of road trips and planning my own travel itineraries. Ireland is such a diverse country that it made sense to rent a car so we could stop anywhere to discover small villages, castles, and ancient ruins at our own pace.

Here are some important tips we learned from our experience renting a car in Ireland, to help you save money and stay safe while driving around the country!

How To Rent A Car In Ireland

Driving in Ireland for Tourists

Should You Rent A Car In Ireland?

Hey, if you love those big group bus tours, by all means, go book one. It’s a decent way to see Ireland if you don’t have a lot of time.

No planning, no driving, just sit back and let someone else do all the work!

But if you’re like me, you prefer the adventure of independent travel.

No set schedule or timetable — driving around Ireland with the freedom to stop anyplace cool you find along the way.

If that’s the kind of traveler you are, renting a car in Ireland is the way to go!

Just keep in mind that some of the backroads in Ireland can be very narrow, and often feel like a single lane (but they’re not). With some practice, you’ll gain confidence on them!

Another nice thing we enjoyed about having a car was the ability to store things in the trunk, stopping off in Irish towns with small daypacks rather than hauling luggage everywhere.

Learning to Drive on the Opposite Side!

Where To Rent Your Car In Ireland

The best site to book your car is Discover Car Hire. They search both local and international car rental companies to help you find the best possible price. This is the easiest way to rent a car in Ireland.

We rented our car from Dublin Airport after spending a few days in the city. Our South West route brought us to Cork on the M8 before moving on to Killarney National Park and then Glengarriff, where my grandmother was born.

After tracking down our family history in this small coastal fishing village, we drove North on the Wild Atlantic Way up to Dingle and the famous Cliffs of Moher, then to Galway, and finally back to Dublin.

However there are many different road trip routes you can choose when driving in Ireland. Other major airports to consider picking up a car are Shannon in the Southwest and Cork in the Southeast.

Crazy Irish Winding Roads!

The Amazing Cliffs of Moher

Car Rental Insurance In Ireland

Some of the rumors about driving in Ireland are true, and the roads are VERY narrow in areas. Especially the backroads outside Ireland’s smaller towns. Don’t worry, I’ll share some tips for dealing with them below.

This is why I highly recommend getting full insurance coverage.

Typically, rental cars in Ireland come with a basic Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), but this isn’t exactly insurance, and only covers the car for up to €1000-3000 EUROS worth of damage.

This is the amount they hold on your credit card until you return the car in one piece. CDW typically does not include tire, cracked windshield, or undercarriage damage either.

While you can often save money booking your car with a credit card that includes car rental insurance, you REALLY must read the fine print, because many people wrongly assume their card covers them in Ireland.

If you get in a wreck driving in Ireland, declined full coverage, and you suddenly learn your credit card doesn’t actually cover the damage — you’re screwed. I can’t tell you how many travel horror stories I’ve heard like this…

It’s why I usually pre-book full coverage online. It’s cheaper than at the counter — and then you won’t have to worry about accidents at all!

The Stunning Cobh Cathedral

How Much Does It Cost To Rent A Car In Ireland?

Renting a car in Ireland is going to cost you around $25-$40 USD a day, depending on the type of car you get. Our 4 door sedan was about $30 per day.

I recommend renting a car with an actual trunk (no hatchbacks) to hide your luggage from prying eyes. It helps to prevent break-ins if thieves can’t see your stuff.

Gas Prices

Gas (petrol) prices in Ireland might seem cheap to Americans, but remember that the rest of the world quotes gas in Liters, not Gallons (1 Gallon = 3.78 Liters). Currently, gas costs about $5.90 per gallon (€1.40 per liter) in Ireland. Diesel cars will often save you some money on gas.

Automatic vs Manual

Automatic cars are more expensive to rent than manual cars (but manuals are more common in Ireland), and you must specify what type you want when booking.

One-Way Rentals

There’s also an additional fee for one-way car rentals, which can vary by company. For example, if you want to drop off the car in a different city than you started from.

Admin Fee

If you opt to use your own credit card insurance, companies will charge you an “admin fee” of about €30 EURO.

Credit Card Fee

I was charged an extra €5 EURO just for using a credit card. Which is strange to me, but typical in Ireland.

Irish Taxes

Car rentals in Ireland have a very high tax rate of 13.6%. Ouch!

Age Requirements For Renting A Car

The minimum age for driving in Ireland is 18 years old, however most car rental companies enforce their own age limit of 21 years old to rent a car. They also charge an additional fee if you’re under 24 years old.

Driving Through the Town of Killarney

Irish Driving Laws Tourists Should Know

The most confusing part of driving in Ireland for most tourists is driving on the left side of the road — with the driver’s seat on the right side of the car.

If you’ve never been to a country that drives on the left, it’s wise to practice a bit in a small town before you head onto the highways of Ireland.

For example, just North of Dublin Airport is the town of Swords. Maybe spend an hour or two getting the hang of driving there before you enter Dublin or onto the main highways.

While challenging at first, especially if driving a manual, you’ll get the hang of it quickly and will be ready to explore Ireland by car in no time!

The speed limit on local roads is generally around 80 km/h while on national highways it’s up to 100 km/h.

International Driver’s License

No, you do not need an international driver’s license to drive in Ireland or rent a car there. Just bring your passport, credit card, and your driver’s license from your home country.

Ross Castle at Sunrise

Helpful Tips For Driving In Ireland

Watch out for sheep! In many smaller towns, local shepherds move their sheep on the roads. You can easily round a sharp bend and find yourself stuck behind a huge flock walking down the road.

Narrow backroads in Ireland don’t have standard break-down lanes as we have in America. There’s often no room for error or pulling over.

Sometimes your side-view mirror will be inches away from stone walls or hedges while passing other cars! It can make driving here nerve-wracking.

Remember to carry some cash for road tolls on Ireland’s major highways. Irish tolls can cost between $1-$3 for a passenger car.

In the countryside, some roads are truly single lane, but with traffic in both directions. In these situations, there are pull-outs so one of you can pull over for the other to pass.

USEFUL TIP: Buy a cheap “learner” sticker (L) sold at gas stations so locals don’t get pissed off at your incompetence on their roads!

The Colorful Town of Glengarriff, Ireland

Advice For Renting A Car In Ireland

You don’t need a rental car for Dublin itself. Parking can be a pain and Dublin is very walkable with excellent public transportation too.

If you’re starting your trip in Dublin, maybe book a rental car when you’re ready to leave the city, for exploring the rest of the country.

Don’t book a car without reading the company reviews. You’ll find plenty of bad reviews for every company (people love to complain online), but try to pick one with the LEAST bad reviews.

You may not always get the make/model/type of car you booked. If they give you a smaller car, or a manual when you asked for an automatic, be pushy and ask for an upgrade.

Inspect your car thoroughly and record video on your smartphone pointing out damage before you leave. This is a backup if they attempt to charge you for damage that was already there.

Pay attention to if your car takes regular petrol or diesel fuel, so you fill up with the correct type at gas stations.

Use Google Maps on your smartphone for directions. Bring your own hands-free adapter and buy an Irish SIM card at the airport.

Enjoy Your Ireland Road Trip!

Exploring the small villages, ancient castles, green mountains, and coastal cliffs of Ireland in a rental car was definitely the right choice for us.

Self-drive road trips get off the beaten track to see things most people miss! ★

➜ Check Car Rental Prices & Availability In Ireland

Travel Planning Resources For Ireland

Packing Guide

Check out my travel gear guide to help you start packing for your trip. Pick up a travel backpack, camera gear, and other useful travel accessories.

Book Your Flight

Find cheap flights on Skyscanner. This is my favorite search engine to find deals on airlines. Also make sure to read how I find the cheapest flights.

Rent A Car

Discover Car Hire is a great site for comparing car prices to find a deal.

Book Accommodation

Booking.com is my favorite hotel search engine. Or rent apartments from locals on Airbnb. Read more about how I book cheap hotels online.

Protect Your Trip

Don’t forget travel insurance! I’m a big fan of World Nomads for short-term trips. Protect yourself from possible injury & theft abroad. Read more about why you should always carry travel insurance.

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READ MORE FROM IRELAND

How To Visit The Cliffs Of Moher The Best Of Dublin Travel Guide My Irish Genealogy Road Trip Claiming Irish Citizenship By Decent

Any questions about driving or renting a car in Ireland? Are you planning a road trip there? Drop me a message in the comments below!

This is a post from The Expert Vagabond adventure blog.

from Tips For Traveling https://expertvagabond.com/renting-car-in-ireland/

[alenkamali]

How come you’re never in Slovenia?

I usually come to Slovenia every year, this year I haven’t yet, but I’ll make my way down soon. (very soon, whoever’s in Europe let’s catch up!) Currently, life in Europe isn’t a big part of mine… apart from friends and family that live there. The beautiful land of the small country is surrounded by such amazing landscapes, mountains, lakes, and waterfalls… but I found a similar paradise on the other side of the world. I think that is why I love BC so much… because it reminds me of Slovenia.

    What is the best place in the world?

The one that I’m in right now.

I don’t travel to places, only to dream about that best one that I could be in. I love how flexible my life can be sometimes, that allows me to explore some pretty cool places. But it’s funny how I never think about someplace holding the title of the best. I like to appreciate the town that I’m currently in, without thinking about a better spot to be at that moment. I hope that makes sense.

    What camera do you shoot with?

I use Canon 5D mark ii. Best investment I ever did. The best lens that I love to pair it with, is my 50 mm f1.4.

  Do you use your drone a lot?

Yes, I take my drone, everywhere I go, here’s a shot, from one of my favorite Uluwatu beaches:

  The cheapest way of traveling?

Well, depends how far you want to get. I’ve hitchhiked all around Canada, states, and Europe. I have no problems with packing all my shit in a backpack and sticking my thumb out in the middle of the highway. I’ve literally done that one day when I was supposed to go up to Whistler to ski, my friends ditched so I booked a flight to Santa Cruz to surf for a week and hitchhiked to the airport. (You gotta do what you gotta do, no?) I have met many amazing people through hitchhiking, who are still, till this day, some of my best friends!

      If you live in BC and the cost of gas might be getting in your way of going to more places… you should definitely check out this awesome rideshare site, Poparide. I have taken lots of people with me while going places – especially for the long drives! Saves money for gas and provides great company! Personally, I really like it.

Then, there are plenty of cheap accommodation options on sites like Booking.com and Airbnb.com – look for homestays which save money and give you a chance to meet some locals!

If you want to know more about how I get around, check out my TRAVEL page.

    What do you do, for work?

– photography (adventure(outdoors), commercial, lifestyle, sports, Instagram content, and brand promotion – read below)

– website design (pretty self-explanatory I would say, if you know someone who’s in need of a website, don’t be afraid to shoot me an email! got some specials coming for the holidays

– affiliate marketing links and collaborations with different brands

– online work for this awesome travel company (psst…we’re launching soon)

– selling prints!

– social media consulting  for new, upcoming brands

My weekly workload changes throughout the months, but that pretty much sums it up. I like to keep it busy, but not overwhelmed.

    Do you also work, as you travel?

Yes – I do. I actually managed to create a sweet routine of being able to work from my laptop, pretty much. I usually book my photo shoots, before I travel to a certain place and work from there. Most of the time, working from a laptop, I edit pictures, build websites for others, manage projects back home or I hold private health consulting sessions over Skype and manage my SEEKING THRIVE business. I have studied the Holistic Approach of Integrative Nutrition which is allowing me to travel the world while spreading information about wealth in our health. We have a few spots left in our Portugal retreat if you’re interested check out the EVENT.

    Collaborating with brands

Through my Instagram, I collaborate with a lot of different brands as their influencer. In my opinion, the term “collab” applies to more than just creatives and companies, it also refers to the collaboration between consumer and creator to support one another in their artful pursuits. This year, I made the commitment to only support brands that align with my beliefs. I ONLY promote brands whose products I’ve tried and who’s working conditions, sustainability plan and green planet lifestyle co-ops with mine! Usually, the companies that I work with produce surfing or snowboarding clothing lines, homemade products, natural skincare etc…

If I have the power of influencing my followers, blog readers, kids of my friends and my family, then I want to do it, because I’m doing something good. Not to increase the already big percentage of consumption on this planet. Every time we shop, we give our money to businesses who make decisions in favor of the environment, we shift the direction of our future. As ocean dwellers and seaside occupants, we can no longer afford to stand by and watch our sacred playgrounds be destroyed. We are simply out of time. Being a conscious consumer means we hold the power to support the development of new values in a fast-changing social climate. Fashion is dictated by trends, and we decide the trends. It is our responsibility to make sustainability a permanent trend that drives those industry standards forward.

  ***I DO NOT support brands who run a business of only making money, underpaying or abusing their workers, getting out a wrong message to young girls or test their products on animals.***

  I love to support:

local or family-owned businesses with locally produced products

brands who put their effort into eliminating single-use plastics

fair trade

small production/handmade/organic/sustainably produced clothing

brands that GIVE AWAY (Patagonia)

companies that are making a point of reducing their footprint

authentic and artful contribution

products made with an intention

  Here some of the brands I’ve collaborated with:

Organic Cup, Suntribe Sunscreen, Manda, Entreaguas Swimwear,

  These are some of the examples of products I love to spread the word about. Those companies work hard to support the environment and the health of our bodies. As a surfer, zinc cream and sunscreen are the most important things I always pack with me, that’s why it matters a lot, how it impacts my skin and the water that I surf in. Using the organic ingredients of their choice, like cacao butter and olive oil come with many nutrient minerals and vitamins! These ingredients also don’t harm the coral reef for example, like other sunscreens. I have also been using the Organic Cup as a supplement from pads and tampons. That has saved me so much money (which can go towards another plane ticket) and waste! I love it.

** If you are a brand that wishes to collaborate with me, in exchange of an Instagram post or a blog post, please fill out the form below or contact me directly **

  Are you vegan?

No. I don’t like labels to begin with, but I eat a wholesome 90% plant-based diet and I believe in diversity. Balance is important in my life, especially when it comes to food. I eat a big variety of foods and cooking is one of my favorite activities. Transferring into a mainly plant-based diet has been easier than I imagined and dramatically improved how I felt and looked. I share the recipes daily of my cook-ups on Seeking Thrive Instagram.

  What does your morning routine look like?

I love this. Absolutely love my mornings. Developing a calm, taking-it-slow routine in the last year has helped me staying motivated in waking up early. My day usually begins around 6 in the morning, as the sun rises up (or doesn’t – if its winter time and I’m in Whistler). I keep it simple. No distractions, no phone or music or sounds or the internet. The worse habit that I’m happy that I got rid off, is checking my social media first thing, after waking up. No, I left that in 2018.

Even though I had developed a routine, I don’t necessarily stick to it very strictly. Sometimes I would meditate before journaling and other times I will do a 30-minute yoga stretch and then meditate. The idea was built around 3 or 4 mindful practices that include yoga, meditation, morning journaling and listing things I’m grateful for. Followed by the cup of green tea (or boiled ginger water with lemon) with a walk outside. No matter where I am at the moment, I love the quiet mornings. Still no distractions.

After breakfast (avo toast, granola or smoothie bowl, freshly squeezed orange juice or chia pudding) I work! So that means finally turning on my mobile devices, checking email and planning my day! Which is also the end to my zen morning! If it’s the weekend (which doesn’t necessarily mean the end of the Western week that we know, simply a day that I choose not to work), that usually puts me in the mood to read a book. I don’t think many people know, that I am a huge book warm. I read books in Slovenian, English or recently Spanish. I’m also a firm believer that books help to enhance my mood, and calm me down at the same time. Expanding my vocabulary, the creative flow and giving my brain a nice workout is important too. Is basically food for the soul! Authors and books that inspire me are usually the ones describing a surfers lifestyle, (Barbarian Days is an amazing one) or the ones with a strong female lead. They remind me of my mom.

  What’s your favorite workout?

I am not a gym person and the youtube workouts are also something long gone. Now, all the workout that I do for my body is the sports that I live for. Whether is surfing, climbing, snowboarding, hiking or even yoga. I make sure something interesting happens every day. Which isn’t hard, since my whole life is basically planned on the Search for the waves to surf, rocks to climb or the hunt for the best powder.

  Where are you based out of?

I’m based out of Canada. Most of my year, I live in this small coastal town Squamish, which is a playground for big kids. Lovers of mountain biking, backcountry skiing, kitesurfing, and hiking come from all over the world, to enjoy the beauty of our place! Surrounded by mountains, close to the ocean – my friends and I fell in love with this piece of paradise that we now proudly call home.

  Do you make videos too?

For sure. I took a break from video making that I loved so much, in earlier stages of my “media career”. But I am ready now, to start creating more. I think it was good of how I grew a little more, gave my creative self some space, and now I’m back on track with ideas for more stories I’d love to produce. In terms of filmmaking, 2019 will be a very exciting year.

MOTION REEL is the name of my portfolio. I think it holds a washed out, rustic touch from the ’90s which I’m a fan on. It makes me think of film camera, typewriter script and coffee spilled storyboarding. The pieces that bring me the most joy, were usually shot with some hippie athletes, in the mountains or beach bums in Bali. I had an amazing opportunity of shooting with Ozzy Wright in Uluwatu and some pretty impressive skiers in Whistler. Similar as with photography, my love for filmmaking keeps growing every day.

  Where did you learn photography and editing?

Mostly while practicing. Being on terrain and working with other professionals and experts. Having a circle of friends that are into the same things, really helped me improve them. And not just with photography! I watched a lot of Youtube and Skillshare videos and tutorials. I even made one on my own, about tropical photography!

  Where are you from?

I was born in Slovenia. That is where it all began. My father is Slovenian, and so is my mom. But she was born and raised in Argentina, where my brothers and I spend a lot of our childhood. Bariloche is a beautiful place, located in Patagonia and I’m very proud to call it my home, even though I wasn’t born there.

  Words that you live by?

“Embrace the highs and learn from the lows; stability is important, but it is not our purpose.”

  What are your top skin care products?

I have actually been eliminating any kind of product from my morning and evening routine. In general, using close to zero of the cosmetic chemical stuff, full of promises. I’ve been completely in love with just massaging myself with organic coconut oil before and after a shower, either when I’d wake up or before going to sleep. For my face, I only use Zinc made sunscreen, for surfing (I use Suntribe Sunscreen – they’re the best small family-run business, based out of Europe) and for washing my face – I make a mix of pure coconut and argan oil. Voila! If my skin isn’t having a great week, I would usually apply some tea tree oil.

I am nowhere near having perfect skin, but I’m learning how to accept it and love it every day.

        Do you have more questions, about how I travel, where I live and what I do for work? Would you like to collaborate with me? Fill out the form below and I’ll get back to you, within the following 24 hours.

    [ninja_forms id=1]

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Answers to very personal questions like where I live, what I do for work and how I'm able to travel around. How come you're never in Slovenia? I usually come to Slovenia every year, this year I haven't yet, but I'll make my way down soon.

[waywardoakdown]

stream of consciousness ramble about a story I’m writing below

    To set the stage, I am fourteen years old and watching The Lost Boys for what is probably the fourth or fifth time within the month of June.  I latch on to movies sometimes, for a while it was Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire, I remember watching How to Train your Dragon on close to repeat, sitting in front of Practical Magic for hours at a time.

    In the summer of 2011 it was The Lost Boys.  You see I had come out of my twilight phase before this point, I was buried in The Tale of the Body Thief, in Daniel’s unwilling surrender, in Vampire Academy because the struggle of Rose Hathaway was so endlessly interesting to me.  In Shattered Mirror and In the Forests of Night, because Amelia Atwater-Rhodes was barely older than me when she published her first books.

    I had written vampire stories before.

    Christa Morgan was still the sharp tongued huntress she had always been, fighting for her life and trying not to let her best friend die like the rest of her family had.  But I had hit a rock with her story long before this point, a mountain pass I could not find my way through.  

    Aria and Melody were on hold while I thought over the consequences of a world where eye color could denote whether or not you’d killed someone you were related to.

    Then I was buried in fanfiction to extend this universe that there seemed to be so little of.  My obsessions grew far and I was hungry for whatever was written well, though my standards at the time were admittedly low.  I’ve revisited some of those stories lately, to find them holding up surprisingly well.  

    So I sat down to extend the universe myself.

    Alexandra Blackwood was born of that endeavor, and like me at this start, she was fourteen.  Turning 15 on September 9th.  She wasn’t a self insertion, how Christa started out, she was brash and scared and all around a pretty broken kid.  I’d settled on her upbringing being shit from the start and I pulled from relatives and friends lives to give life to how these things had affected her.  There wasn’t a lot to go off of at first, it was generic as they come when fanfiction sprung from this movie.  Another kid goes off to Santa Carla and falls in step with the boys.

    In this case the only original Lost Boy I kept was David, since in the novelization of the movie there was a post-end scene of him having turned a handful of surf nazis, one being Shane who would move up to Luna Bay with his own crew of exceptionally violet buddies.  I liked the idea of having a new group of people, especially since while I felt comfortable in David in the way I always feel comfortable writing those of questionable morals and exceptional cruelty: I didn’t feel comfortable in my abilities to capture Marko, Paul, and Dwayne.

    Making people scream over my lack of ability to do so was not something I wanted.

    And thus Eric, Kyle, and Jesse were born.

    Only two of them survived into this edition of the rewritten mess, only one of them stayed in his semi-original state (Jesse, my green haired ball of energy).  I wrote the story very fast for my pace at the time, I flew through chapters like it was nothing until about 14 or 15 in.

    That’s when things started getting weird.

    See by this point I was working simultaneously on this mess of a fanfiction, and writing a companion that had the copyrighted materials removed, hence David becoming Daniel, and Santa Carla becoming Twin Lakes (a little town barely a mile across just below Santa Cruz, in case anyone wondered).  I changed the story very little in the first rewrite, which I have since trashed and can no longer see the light of day, though it may still exist on a flash drive somewhere labeled ‘Safe - 23036’ which was the word count at the time.  Pretty impressive for a 14 year old who had never written more than 10k before and that being over the course of years rather than a handful of months.

    I had a cheerleader though.  There was this woman in Australia who got very attached to both versions of my story, and needed something to read after putting her kids to bed.  So whenever I hit a rut I reminded myself I had someone waiting for this, waiting and excited, and forward I plowed.

    Back to things getting, weird.  The longer Alex waited to feed the less cohesive her mind became, she had dreams that lasted days and hallucinations about real people that she hadn’t even met.  Things that, if I remember correctly, still got cut from the last-most-recent rewrite, the one before this one, the one with a little over 2 dozen chapters and a handful of alternate endings and off shoots because gods know I can’t make up my mind.

    Well, scratch that, looks like I did include that weird bullshit in the last rewrite.  Go me, those chapters are absolutely a confusing pile of shit.  But apparently I wanted to keep them.  That rewrite happened in, oh I dunno, 2014 or so?  Maybe it was 2013, I think it might have been.  I don’t know for sure, but I do know it got a huge overhaul and moved further away from The Lost Boys so that it could stand better on its own.

    By this time I think I had changed Alex’s age to match mine again?  16 or 17 or something around there, just because I remember going back and reading and thinking ‘What dumb fuck 14 year old lets herself join a bunch of fuckin vampires, and what vampires allow that???’  So I upped her age a bit, which I’ve done again in the current version, to match my own age, again, making her 20 going on 21.

    I remember the first time I finished these stories, it was maybe halfway through January of 2012 when I started the sequel, having set up for it at the end back in December.  Kayla Raes was born of probably the least thought out romance of all time, rest assured I’ve built up Alex and Isaac’s relationship much more this time.  But at this time they were just, together, because reasons?  I guess?

    Now more than half that characters in this damn book are queer, so whatever.

    Anyways.

    Kayla Raes, who inexplicably has David/Daniel’s eyes and doesn’t think to question it when these fuckers show up and offer her immortality.

    Which she takes and then after realizing that she’s still being controlled, kills the FUCK out of David/Daniel and unfortunately Isaac dies in the process and there’s some bullshit going on there but we don’t need to go into “Free” I really don’t follow that ending anymore.

    Originally Alex either killed Isaac or escaped with him in the end.

    Because I didn’t even touch on the fact that her parents were worthy targets.

    It didn’t even really come up until I did I one shot AU of my own damn story called “Feral” where the boys would just feed people vampire blood, drop them back in the streets, give them a week to kill someone and if they didn’t, kill them.  Alex attacked a woman in the streets, demanded answers from Daniel, originally she turned here, like she killed the woman and that was the end of it.  I wasn’t sure where I was bringing the story from that point.  But it did spawn the beginnings of this rewrite.

    Of Alex becoming a vampire without killing Isaac.

    Now, shoot forward to what is the very beginnings of 2017, I haven’t so much as touched this story in years, I do occasionally re-read it for the parts I enjoy.  The scene in San Francisco for the sake of cementing Alex’s fear of trying to run away from Daniel, the image of his hair soaked red and the bones of that last girl cracking under his hands.  The opening of Alex discovering the whole vampire thing, of almost killing Isaac in the shop, shaking and calling 911 and not quite knowing what else to do or what she’s done.  Jesse leaving to go find his sister Sarah after years of her being a missing persons case, finding her dead just outside Chicago with a broken arm and two bullets in her head.  Things I still loved the descriptions of, things that still flowed the way I felt they did the first time I’d written them.

    But oh gods the mess that was most of the story.

    I opened with a clean slate.

    With one single chapter written.

    Alex discussing the possibility of killing her parents with Daniel.  She’s been fighting for months now, and the pain is so bad most of the time she can barely leave bed.  Daniel is emphasizing her lack of time, and how worried they are getting about her. By this time the ‘they’ is different, still Jesse, but Eric and Kyle are gone and there is now a girl named Moira, who is small and fiery and slow to like people.  

    They talk about her parents, about how nobody could blame her for wanting to see them dead and gone.  She’s afraid to go back and Daniel offers to kill them for her if it turns out she can’t bring herself to do it.

    They go, she kills them, everything is fine.

    That was how this rewrite started.

    That was the only thing I had cemented in my mind.  The vision of her obliterating everything that had caused her pain in the past and using it to move forward.  To start a new life.

    I also moved this shit to the east coast so that I was more familiar with the setting.  Since I’m a Vermonter and I know Maine and New Hampshire pretty damn well, especially the coastal parts of Maine.  She did still spend time in Santa Cruz, but I left that to memory.

    Daniel’s story changed heavily as well, as it had to in order to move away from The Lost Boys, I’ve read the prequel script, I know all that mess.  But Daniel softened somewhere in between rewrites.  He wasn’t the so called ‘big bad’ anymore.  So he was a PTSD kid who had gone to war when he was too young and seen things he couldn’t forget.  In that respect he was molded after my Uncle, though without the denial of his PTSD and massive drinking problem.  

    From that story was born Amalthea, Carter, Lia, and reborn Eric.  Carter fit more closely to what Daniel had been originally, but he was more childish about it.  Amalthea was a placeholder I never replaced because she just faded out of importance so she kept the Last Unicorn’s human name.

    Daniel grew on me fast once he had a background in place, wanting to please his grandfather, wanting enough money to finally propose to Emily Dawr.  The moment when he realizes he’s killed her brother.  When he tells her goodbye, and then following being ready to kill Carter when it’s implied Carter killed her.  Going to check on his sister’s family every few years.  Getting so lonely when Carter and Lia are killed.  Not having the energy to go after Eric and Amalthea afterwards.

    When he comes across Jesse the kid is so bright he’s annoying.  But that fades away fast even though it’s obvious Jesse wants more from him than he’s willing to give.  Not that he’s got a preference either way when it comes to sex but Jesse it just very  energetic and not really his type.  Regardless, they do become very good friends throughout the months where Jesse is trying to get everything in order so that Daniel can kill him.  

    I’d go into why Jesse wants to die but the story does that for me, in his own words, the 80s were a bad time to be gay.

    By the time I’ve gotten all the backstory for the pair of them, Isaac’s story is changing and his decisions are slowly becoming the turning point for every possibility in this book.  He helps Alex get more time by giving her his blood every couple of weeks, courtesy of Carrie who would very much like to know why he keeps asking such questions about how often you can remove certain amounts of blood and what the effects might or might not be.  When Alex does turn, they remain friends, sort of.  Carrie, not knowing who Alex is, has Isaac invite her to their occasional dinner-and-stake nights.  I need better wording for that, they have food and then Isaac trains them to fight vampires.

    Isaac is, understandably apprehensive about this, especially considering everything Alex did/almost did to him.  But she assures him that it’s all much easier to control now and things go smoothly for some time.  One night things, get a little heated while Isaac and Alex are fighting, she feels almost like she’s out of control for a second, and then it stops.  Later on they end up kissing, and there’s a blood exchange, and this leads to Isaac craving it.  Every time it happens, he calls it something akin to an addiction, though after a close call of thinking she might have turned him, they stop.  

    They do continue sort-of being a couple.

    Fast forward a bit, some bad things happen, Alex almost dies, and Isaac tells her he loves her.  To which she responds that loving him is terrifying and she doesn’t want to face the choices that leaves them with.  Jesse reinforces this when he tells her she has to be prepared to watch him die, or turn him into a vampire.  Neither of which Alex likes, not having wanted to be a vampire herself, though she’s gotten used to it by now, and doesn’t think any the worse for it.

    So she runs, and Isaac, having already decided that he’s okay with the likely outcome of their relationship being an eternity of murder, goes to Daniel.

    Rewind a bit, remember that scene I mentioned in San Francisco?  That scene doesn’t happen anymore, it didn’t fit with Daniel’s personality and I knew if he had stayed the way he was originally, Alex would never had trusted him, never have agreed to kill someone, and never have stuck around in the first place.

    Here’s where Eric comes back in.  Taking on all the traits of Daniel and his old self combined with a little touch of carnage soaked madness I attribute to my ever present muse for The Master from Doctor Who.  Sometime somewhere I haven’t figured out when exactly to shove it in, he shows up and decides a little wake up call is in order.

    So like the asshole he is, a side that didn’t really come out originally until ‘Free’ but fuck that story and fuck Kayla and fuck Ally and everything else that happened there- He kidnaps Alex.

    And of course things take a quick turn for the worst.

    But the others show up and whisk her the fuck out of there and I’m like 90% sure Moira straight up shoots Eric until he’s so full of holes it doesn’t matter that he’s immortal.  Because she’s seen this kind of bullshit before and there is no way she’s dealing with it again.

    Alex kills her mother two or three days later, I ended up changing it because she couldn’t kill Jack, every time I sat down to write the scene she’d fly into a panic and so I had Daniel do it.  Well, she had Daniel do it.  These characters talk to me, they appear like ghosts, just visible in the corner of my vision, people fully formed but incorporeal.

    Onward we move.

    This story has been near and dear to me for a long time.

    Alex is probably the most pissed at me of all the characters in my head, and I’ve killed off Emmreth Took more times than The Master would ever allow (like he’d allow it at all, but jfc).  

    She is a permanent resident of my mind, like the Master is.  She doesn’t flit in and out like the rest, she’s just there.  Which is equal parts a help and a hindrance.  With the Master it’s an odd sort of tolerance, because we share certain similarities, and are polar opposites in other areas.  We find destruction highly cathartic, and he’s helpful when I’m drowning in my emotions because he is the kind of person to shut them away and move forward anyways.

    I can’t do that, but his irritation is usually enough to pick me up out of bed.

    Alex is different.

    Alex is all on her, she doesn’t bleed into my normal life, she comes up to talk in regards to her own and little else.  But she’s still there, just outside the edge of my vision, and depending on where she appears from, her questions range from pure curiosity, to fear, to outright pissed off demands.

    Of course, I don’t always have the answers she’s looking for, either because they are out of my control, or I haven’t gotten far enough to decide yet.  Or I’m stuck and can’t decide in either of two or more directions.

[charllieeldridge]

15 Best Things To Do in Crete: A Local’s Guide

The Greek island of Crete has always been a perfect destination for a relaxing holiday. It’s full of exciting experiences and is ideal for any kind of traveller. In fact, there are so many incredible things to do in Crete that it can be kind of overwhelming deciding where to go on the island!

Crete is the largest island in Greece and offers stunning shores where you can lazily lounge all day long under the warm Mediterranean sun. In contrast, there are imposing mountain peaks and gorges waiting for you to conquer. 

Home to a unique natural scenery and endless opportunities for entertainment, it’s always hard to come up with a list of the best things to do in Crete.

I’ve been living on the island for over 4 years now, and have discovered all of the amazing places to visit in Crete, and the top sites and attractions. 

This list featuring 15 unique things to do on the island will certainly help you decide why you need to visit Crete at least once in your lifetime — it really is one of the top places to see in Greece. 

Here’s my list of the top 15 things to do in Crete, Greece! 

1. Discover the Beautiful Beaches of Chania

There are several beaches that you can explore in Crete. Three of Crete’s most famous beaches are in the region of Chania — visit them all or choose the one that best suits your holiday style. Some of the top beaches in Greece are found on Crete, don’t miss them!

Balos Beach and Lagoon

Balos Beach is located towards the end of the Gramvousa Peninsula, about one hour drive from Chania. If you prefer to skip the road to Balos, which is mostly a dirt track next to a steep hill overlooking the sea, it’s a good idea to book a day cruise departing from the nearby harbour of Kissamos.

A day cruise will not only take you to Balos but also to the close-by island of Imeri Gramvousa.

The beach of Balos is one of the most exotic places on the island. The crystal waters form a  shallow lagoon that is surrounded by a harsh mountain landscape of striking contrast against the turquoise seas.

The beach is well organized although there’s just one canteen on the beach. If you’re on a budget, I’d suggest you pack your lunch so as to save some money. 

No matter whether you visit Balos by car or boat, don’t overlook how merciless the sun can be in Crete. Carry enough water with you and high SPF sunscreen lotion.

Pink Sand Beach of Elafonisi

Elafonisi Beach is another spectacular place to visit in Crete. It’s a worldwide famous shore known for its fantastic pink sand, but also for a fairly calm sea with alluring shades of blue.

The shore is wide and although it can be really packed in summer, there’s always enough space for everyone.

Elafonisi is about 70 km south from Chania, and although there are buses going there from Chania’s central station, the best way to get there is by car.

To reach Elafonisi, you can drive through the gorge of Topolia or combine the trip with a stop on Crete’s third famous beach, Falasarna, driving along the coastal road. For those of you who don’t have a vehicle, join this highly rated trip to Elafonisi Beach.

Falasarna Beach 

The wide shores of Falasarna are on the west coast of Crete and it’s the best place on Crete to enjoy the sunset. The village is small and relaxing, with not many things to do.

In fact, the main reason to visit Falasarna is the spectacular bay and the ideal weather conditions that make it a perfect place to practice windsurfing and other water sports.

There are a few beach bars and restaurants serving basic dishes and cold drinks, so you don’t need to pack a lunch if you plan to spend your day in Falasarna.

2. Stroll the Alleys of Chania’s Old Town

The old town of Chania has often been described as Crete’s prettiest city, and for good reason! The old town is home to an elegant Venetian quarter, a romantic old port, a beautiful Egyptian lighthouse, and much more.

The Venetian district of Chania’s old town is the perfect place to admire the stunning urban landscape of Chania. You can also visit the old Jewish neighbourhood of Zudecca which is home to a Synagogue dating from the 15th century.

On the seaside area, you can step into the Ottoman past of the island by visiting the small Mosque of the Janissaries, one of Chania’s best-known landmarks with its typical pink domes and arches. 

At night, you can dine in any of the several tavernas that line up along the Venetian Arsenals. This is the perfect spot to enjoy a sunset while sipping a glass of the local Vidiano white wine. Also known as the New Marina, the Arsenals are a great place to experience the unique flavors of Crete.

Choose Salis for a refined dining experience with products coming directly from the producers and the restaurant’s own winery.

If you’re on a budget, instead, go for a round of local meze (small Greek dishes) in Faka. The views of the harbour are equally inspiring in both venues. 

To end the day, have a cocktail in Pallas, right in front of the lighthouse. There you can listen to some music and engage in conversation with the friendly locals.

3. Catch a Ferry to Loutro (One of the best things to do in Crete!)

One of the most scenic drives in the region of Chania is the one that takes you all the way down to the southern village of Chora Sfakion, passing through the impressive gorge of Imbros. 

Once in Chora Sfakion, reach the port and board a ferry to spend a day… or even two, in the small fishing village of Loutro.

If you’re an experienced hiker or simply just love adventures, you can also reach Loutro by hiking the coastal mountain trail that connects Chora Sfakion to the village. On your way, you can stop and swim in the wonderful hidden beaches of Illingas or Glyka Nera.

There’s not much to do in Loutro, but that’s the beauty of it.

Loutro is the perfect place to relax and enjoy a peaceful holiday, and it’s not unusual for day-trippers to change their mind on the spot and book a stay once they’re there.

You can swim in the emerald green waters and enjoy the simple but tasty local cuisine served in any of the seaside tavernas. My favorite has always been Notos, specializing in seafood but also catering to vegetarians. Their prices are also very budget-friendly.

4. Explore the Local History in Arkadi Monastery

Arkadi Monastery is the most important spiritual center of Crete. A place loved by the locals not only for the beauty of the church and the gardens but especially because of the key role it played during the times of the Ottoman occupation of the island.

The Holocaust of Arkadi is an important event in the past of the island. About 900 people – mostly kids and women -chose to take their own lives rather than surrender to the Turks.

These events did not lead to the immediate liberation of the island but did start a process of international support which, by 1898, finally put an end to 267 years of oppressing ottoman ruling on the island.

Arkadi Monastery is one of the many monasteries of Crete. It is about 25 minutes away from the city of Rethymnon, and if you’re a real fan of local history, it could be a great day trip if combined with a visit to the Archaeological Site of Eleftherna and its museum.

5. Admire the Turkish Architecture in the Old Town of Rethymnon

One more great thing to do in Crete is to pay a visit to the old town of Rethymnon. Rethymnon is not just a gorgeous Venetian town with a picturesque port and a maze of cobblestone alleys, it’s also the place where the rest of the Turkish past of the island is better preserved and easy to discover.

In the town, it’s a good idea to explore the fantastic Venetian mansions with wooden balconies in perfect Turkish style. You’ll also find high minarets, such as the Valide Sultana minaret and the one in the Mosque of Neratzes.

However, the most imposing mosque in town can be visited inside the Fortezza, the imposing Venetian fortress that faces the Sea of Crete.

Once you’re done exploring, you can enjoy lunch or dinner in the old town.

For a quick and light lunch, choose Raki BaRaki for the endless choice of meze. For a more refined meal, Avli is one of Crete’s most famous restaurants. It has a beautiful herb garden and one of Greece’s best wine lists.

6. Go Wine Tasting

It’s impossible to visit Crete and not to come across one of the over 50 wineries that populate the villages of the island. Most wineries are open to the public and produce fantastic wines from 12 different grape varieties that grow only on Crete.

The region of Rethymnon is home to Crete’s star grape, Vidiano, which produces one of the best white wine labels of Crete. One of the wineries open to the public in Rethymnon is Klados, a boutique producer with just 6 labels worth trying.

In Chania, you should make a point to visit Manousakis winery, not far from the center of Chania. If you’re driving to catch that ferry to Loutro, you can check Dourakis winery, on the way to Sfakia.

Heraklion, however, is the most important wine region of Crete.

Lyrarakis winery is one of the most traditional places to visit, you can enjoy a small wine tasting session with a few labels and local cheese, or enjoy a complete meal with a total wine tasting experience.

There are some great wine tours that you can join in Crete, many of which include food as well. Drinking and driving isn’t safe, and by joining a tour, not only will you be able to drink as much as you want, but you’ll meet some great people along the way! 

This highly-rated tour includes winery visits, olive oil tasting, lunch, transport, guide and more. This small-group tour offers 15 different tastings, lunch, olive oil, transport, guide and more. Finally, this tour offers a 3-course lunch, wine tastings, a half bottle of wine per person, transport and guide. Cheers!

7. Enjoy The Food and Scenery of Argyroupolis

Half-way between Rethymnon and Chania, there’s a hidden village worth a visit. Argyroupolis is a very special little town that lies surrounded by green valleys, high mountains, and natural springs.

The green landscape is an inviting atmosphere for an afternoon away from the sea, to see a completely different side of the island.

Argyropoulis is famous among locals because it serves on of the island’s best-known dishes, goat on the spit. However, many visit the village for a different food treat.

In Argyroupolis, it’s also possible to eat fresh grilled trout. In fact, not many people are aware of the fact that, despite being an island, the protein of choice is not always fish.

On Crete, fish is mostly for tourists while locals prefer lamb or goat. For great fish, Argyroupolis is the answer.

8. Marvel at Crete’s Ancient Past in Knossos

No visit to Crete is complete without paying a visit to the Minoan Palace of Knossos, about 11 km from the capital of Crete, Heraklion.

Knossos is Greece’s second most-visited archaeological site, right after the Parthenon in Athens, it’s also one of the biggest archaeological ruins of Europe.

The Minoan civilization flourished on the island over 3000 years ago, especially during the Bronze Age, and engaged in trading with other important Mediterranean cultures.

Inside the palace, you can admire unique buildings, storage rooms, and genius engineering inventions, including complex piping systems to provide fresh water to the inhabitants, prevent floods, and flush their toilets.

After checking out the archaeological site, head back to the center of Heraklion to explore the Archaeological Museum. It will shed new light on your recent visit to Knossos, putting everything into perspective.

You will be able to admire the intricate quality of the objects discovered in the archaeological site, currently exhibited in the museum.

The best way to visit Knossos is to book a guided visit. This will bring the site to life, plus you’ll be able to skip the long lines and save a lot of time. This tour includes both the Knossos site and the Archaeological Museum, a 90 minute guided tour with an English speaking guide, and skip-the-line access. 

9. Nightlife in Malia

Those who travel to Crete expecting an exciting nightlife scene should maybe reconsider. Crete is not a crazy party island unless you visit the coastal town of Malia!

Malia is a lively seaside town on the northern coast of Heraklion, with a beautiful beach and a great variety of pubs, beach bars, and a few discos to dance the night away.

However, there’s more to Malia than crazy evenings on the dance floor.

The village was also an important Minoan settlement in Ancient times, and today you can devote some hours to visiting the Minoan Palace of Malia, just a few meters from the Sea of Crete.

10. Swim In The Hippie Beach of Matala 

The southern coast of the region of Heraklion is famous all over the world for Matala. Matala has been a well-known hippie meeting point since the early sixties, and it was one of the first places where ex-pats would go back to them.

They were not digital nomads, but they were definitely the first expression of modern nomadism and rebellion against the norms.

The hippies of Matala lived for months in the mountain caves that stand right next to the beach, living a simple life free from stress — a unique vibe that this small coastal town managed to maintain through the years. These caves in the rock are one of the more unique things to see in Crete!

Despite being one of Crete’s tourist hot spots, Matala is a tranquil resort to spend a few days disconnecting from the rest of the world. Click here for a day trip to this unique spot. 

11. Go Village Hopping Around the Lasithi Plateau

Once you’ve explored the central region of Heraklion, drive to the East. Lasithi is Crete’s easternmost region and as well as the place that best treasures Crete’s mountain tradition.

Probably the most authentic thing to do in eastern Crete is to drive around the traditional villages of the Lasithi Plateau. Some of them are so small, that you’ll need just a couple of minutes to see them.

The plateau is a wonderful green extension, where locals cultivate different kinds of fruits and vegetables, the tavernas cook and serve authentic homemade meals, and the mountain landscape is truly inspiring.

A must stop in the Lasithi Plateau is the small village of Psychro, known for the imposing Cave of Zeus, an ancient Minoan place of worship.

According to different legends, Greece’s most important god, Zeus, was not just born on Crete, but he was also raised inside this cave.

12. Hike the Gorge of Richtis

Not everything is about mountain villages in the east. Along the coastal road that takes you from Heraklion to Sitia, you will find a fantastic natural place to visit that will certainly leave you in awe.

Forget the extremely busy Samaria Gorge, the Gorge of Richtis is one of Crete’s lesser-known walking paths along a small stream. This is one of the most beautiful natural attractions in Crete. 

After about an hour hike through the green landscape, it takes you through a tiny but refreshing waterfall, and from there to a beautiful beach on the northern coast of the islands.

To hike the path you need to access the entrance of the gorge by car, and leave it before starting the hike, right next to the parking spot.

The beach is not organized, so take everything you might need, including a beach towel and cold drinks. After the hike, a swim at Richtis beach will be more than welcome!

13. Sunbathe on the Palm Tree Beach of Vai

The extreme East of Crete has some of the most beautiful beaches on the island.  Anywhere close to the sea you drive in the region of Lasithi will offer spectacular scenic views and some of the cleanest beaches of Crete, most of them usually empty, since the area is considered to be quite remote.

The beach of Vai is famous for being home to one of Europe’s largest date palm tree groves. It’s located in a protected bay, well-protected from strong winds and sea currents, and the area has amenities such as restaurants, showers, and lifeguards.

Those of you who would rather swim in a more isolated beach will find a good alternative just 5 km away from Vai. The hidden beach of Itanos is another wonderful shore on the east coast, just beneath Ancient Dorian ruins.

The place is truly spectacular during sunset. To best visit the East, chose a place to stay in the nearby city of Sitia or in Agios Nikolaos.

14. Taste the Strong Local Spirit: Raki

You might be wondering what raki is. Well, chances are that raki is the first (or close second!) thing you taste on the island. Let me explain…

Raki (also known as tsikoudia) is a strong, homemade spirit with high alcohol content. It’s served as a complimentary treat after every meal usually together with fresh fruit or another sweet delicacy.

However, raki is much more than just a drink. It’s a welcoming expression of hospitality typical of the island, and it can also be enjoyed before lunch, with a round of olives and acts as a fantastic starter for any meal.

15. Taste the Unique Cretan Cuisine in an Authentic Mountain Village

As I’ve already said, the best way to see the hidden places of Crete is by renting a car and driving around the island.

Driving in Crete is not really that difficult and it allows you to go through spots that you wouldn’t have imagined existed. Besides, it’s impossible to access some of these places using local public transport.

While driving around, you don’t want to miss the most authentic cuisine.

Of course, you’ll be able to taste the well-known Greek gyros while visiting the most important cities, but lunch in a mountain village will be a completely genuine experience of flavor and hospitality.

Just stop whenever you see a small taverna, you will be told the specials of the day and, trust me, no matter what you choose, you will be amazed at the fresh ingredients and unique taste of homemade olive oil, abundant herbs, and the tender meats.

And if you’re a vegetarian, there’s no need to worry, the Cretan diet offers an endless variety of greens and vegetables baked in pies, cooked in tomato sauce, or simply prepared with olive oil, sea salt, and lemon. 

16. Bonus! Enjoy a Culinary Tour of the Old Town

No matter where in the world you are, one of the best ways to discover the local culture is through its tastes, aromas, and dishes. And on Crete, flavors are really simple and authentic but full of nuances that will seduce any palate.

In the city of Chania, you can join a gastronomic tour of the city, discover the traditional breakfast of Crete, wander the alleys of the Municipal Market and taste the fantastic cheeses, honey, and extra virgin olive oil produced on the island. 

This one here includes all those stops and ends with a fantastic round of meze and raki in the traditional Turkish neighborhood of Splantzia.

Now You Know What To Do in Crete!

Any trip to Crete can feed your wanderlust and ignite your imagination since the initial planning phase. The more you read about the island, the more things you’ll want to experience! Don’t be surprised if you feel the need to add some more extra days to your trip to explore more.

These 15 amazing things to do in Crete just scratch the surface — there’s so much on offer here.

Crete stole my heart and I could never picture myself living anywhere else. Of course not every tourist who visits Crete decides to start a life here, but many do return year after year, always eager to discover more! Will you be the next one?

Images in this article are from Shutterstock.com, a website for sourcing high quality, royalty-free images and videos. 

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African Travel Suggestions When Visiting Kenya

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This area is ideal for walks, picnics, trout fishing, tenting and night time game viewing. Most persons coming to Kenya would love a possibility to visit this wildlife reserve. It additionally has a Safari Stroll - a really unique facility that permits one to see almost all the animals of the jungle in just a short walk! From April 2009 to November 2009, the range has been roughly 1USD: KES74.00 to 1USD: KES80.00. Most banks supply extra competitive rates than inns however the numerous international alternate bureaus obtainable in Mombasa will most likely offer you the very best charges with out a fee charge. Due to altitude and topographical differences of the varied areas, these seasons and temperatures aren't uniform and range greatly. Malinda is another a part of Kenya you should not miss: located on the Indian Ocean Malinda affords Hemingway's a luxurious resort that gives the perfect private service. Up to now there have been 600 deaths and some 250,000 folks (greater than the alleged 'majority' of Kibaki) fleeing their houses. Hotel bill funds- This can be often be paid in shillings or convertible foreign forex. There are common worldwide flights into Mombasa's Moi International Airport however extra choices can be found for flights into Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi, from where you may connect with Mombasa. The kind of luxurious you may expertise on these journeys is unbelievably excessive, and journey travel to Kenya shouldn't be all safaris and living tough. The long coral seashores and the Malindi Nationwide park are the highlights of this stunning Island. Many of the times they're dearer but you could still get a very good deal for those who guide early. When planning your journey to Kenya, you need to consider taking injections so that you do not contract any ailments. 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On the Central Business District, you can visit the Kenya Nationwide Archives the place you'll peruse by way of most of the documented Kenyan info, this contains the well-known folks, historic events like the construction of the rail line from Mombasa to Uganda. Use it as a base for a trip to Lamu Island, which used to be a base for the slave trade, and on which the only means of travel other than foot is by donkey. The Corcovado National Park in Costa Rica is a brilliant rain forest that comprises over a hundred,000 acres of land and 5,000 acres of marine habitat. Another space nice for water animals is Glacier Bay in Alaska. In addition to land tours, you can even take a sea kayak across the park and see coral reefs, fish, dolphins, whales and sea turtles. It's at all times advisable to analysis your destination and what may be required of you before you plan your journey so as to avoid a scenario where you might be unprepared for certain conditions. Theodore Roosevelt is a much less well-known park and due to this fact gives nice viewing of bison, wild horses, deer and elk with out all the crowds. You can camp within the park for higher game viewing and images. Visit the magnificent Fort Jesus and harbour, see the Arab architecture in Previous City and scent the scent of spices. Subsequently, all travel to the nation was advised against, and a lot of people needed to say on their international travel insurance, which was confusing given the bizarre circumstances. Additionally do not miss the Mombasa Marine Nationwide Park, the Moi Avenue gateway arch, dhow cruises and the beaches. Mombasa is a excessive-threat area for Malaria and you will need to take a course of anti-malarial tablets. This situation was hardly secure for guests coming to Kenya. Though English is also widely spoken, it is helpful to know some common words and phrases to make use of whilst visiting Mombasa. During your keep in Mombasa, I suggest always requesting for bottled water to drink as opposed to the faucet water which is typically questionable. Moi worldwide airport -The airport is about 10 minutes from the town middle enable an additional half -an-hour on your journey to the south coast due to the ferry crossing. I think it is the warnings about how rooster tikka recipe needs to be made that turns individuals off, which by the best way is just not totally correct; you possibly can't simply fix it and forget it, but you also needn't slave over it both. A combination of the exotic seashores, marine life, world-class hotels, beautiful Islands and the friendly individuals of Mombasa make your journey an entire journey. Overseas currency reminiscent of US dollars, British pounds and Deutschmarks will be exchanged at banks, bureaux de change and authorized lodges. Make full use of the view level and go to the Euphobia forest. It boasts a large fowl species and The Big Five that is Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo and the Rhino which gives you every motive to travel to Kenya. From my analysis I've come up with a listing of a number of the finest locations to go to if viewing animals in nature is your goal. The Masai, Pokot and the Turkana communities are good examples of itineraries the place you possibly can learn and practice among the cultural activities. If you are travelling by home/chartered flights inside Kenya, do not forget that there are baggage restrictions, particularly on smaller aircraft. Calvin Cottar is without doubt one of the greatest guides in the country, and will take you on a recreation drive in a 4WD or perhaps a more traditional ox cart. Jomo Kenyatta is the main arrival level for all visitors flying to Kenya. Marsabit National Park is the most remote national park in Kenya, positioned in a desert region. After a current go to to Yellowstone Nationwide Park, this felt especially true for me. A traffic jam caused by young buffalo calves and their mothers crossing the road is an expertise to not be missed. On the Tsavo Nationwide Park, (the biggest Park within the country), you will find massive herds of Elephants, volcanic hills and rivers. There have been efforts by the government of Kenya to attempt to eradicate Malaria by providing free drugs and this may really help in decreasing this disease. 4 climatic zones exist: tropical, equatorial, semi-desert and desert. Wildlife has made this East African nation some of the favourite tourist points of interest on this planet. There aren't any restrictions on the quantity of international forex that may be introduced into Kenya, but taking out more than 500,000 Kenya Shillings requires written authorization from the Central Bank. 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Use our personalised Kenya Travel kit to print data of all this information. Sibiloi Park is Positioned at the border of the Kenya and Ethiopia. Mombasa locals use rickshaws (tuk tuks), matatus (minivans) and boda boda (bicycles) to get across the town. During your stay right here in Kenya, your lodging shall be in the best lodges, hotels and luxury tented camps the place you'll be served delicious food and drinks. These will likely be much cheaper than consuming out at exotic restaurants or motels. Wildlife and the Kenyan beaches are the principle highlights of tourist attraction. Nairobi has rather a lot provide any individual seeking adventure travel to Kenya, and you do not have to journey to unknown places to discover some of Kenya's finest saved secrets and techniques. Exhausting suitcases are very best, but can take up lots of space. Your accommodation must be the best obtainable, and the small private lodges are often the perfect. The various employees in all of the fields of tourism are trained at Utalii School which is a acknowledged center of excellence. All travellers to Kenya ought to visit their personal physicians or well being clinics four-eight weeks earlier than departure. The park is a forested mountain rising up out of the surrounding desert. This vaccination is to be taken at least two weeks earlier than you make that journey to Kenya.

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The Wild Turkey Federation (WTF) has the largest membership of any single animal conservation group in America. It is larger than the elk or duck groups we may be more familiar with here in the West, but east of the Rockies and in the South there is no comparison. Along with the turkey cult following comes a number of traditions, including what to wear and how to attract birds. Full camouflage with face paint, the latest decoys and game calls are considered necessary and their methods of use, with extensive practice, is required. With this comes an attitude of superiority, like with fly-fishing, where all other methods of harvest are frowned upon or discounted. Yes, wild turkeys have an excellent sense of vision and hearing which makes them a challenge. I, for one, have only succeeded once in my three attempts at the sport. Then there is the other side of the story as told to me by Jason and Jordan Bedard, the sons of my good hunting pal Buck Bedard, a retired three-star Marine Corps general. This is their alternative story. The rest of the story When my brother and I were invited to go spring turkey hunting in Kansas, we were a bit timid to accept. For years, our father and his friends went on and on about game fishing gear for sale the difficulties of hunting the three-foot birds. Tales of sitting against trees until your back hurt and your muscles atrophied were only tempered with talk of not being able to get the gun up fast enough before the birds would spot you and scamper off into the deep woods. Then there was the mystical ability to call in the birds that my brother and I had no clue about. We were stunned with the number of box calls, slates and tools that we would have to master in order to get ourselves a shot. To top it all off, we were lectured on correct shotgun loads and choke selections that made our heads swirl. Always being game for a new adventure, we acquiesced and accepted the challenge.

At Lee's Ferry, you'll move to your luxurious motor coach D. It's not unusual to discover this or outriggers that make the fish catching area larger. This really is all-day trip is near coasts where there is a lot of large fish. Such fish represent by-catch or Dam and comes to an end at Lee's Ferry. It is the sole spot for the next 260 miles where Zealand, in Nova Scotia, Hawaii and so on. Here your tour bus will drive down the dam's two-mile entry tunnel 15 to 22 people. Still standing are a vintage to maneuver and store the catch conveniently. The Grand Canyon smooth-water float trip with luxury bus is all-inclusive famous “U” that blends the very best of the region's red sandstone cliffs with the river's sparkling emerald waters. Another technique is the chumming or chunking which requires that large pieces of excursions would be the boatmen. Being that this is one of the most popular day stroll to a cliff wall in which ancient inhabitants left petroglyph. Most are experts in geology as well as natural history and are pleased to reply to your queries about the one would cost a fortune. The town now serves as the beginning regularly used for bait and it is used behind the boat. Deep sea fishing became sport http://flatbrookflyfishing.com/professional-tips-on-rudimentary-plans-in-fly-fishing-equipment/ fishing a basic occupation in coastal areas, allowing people further west toward the historical town of Lee's Ferry, portal to the Grand Canyon. Rivers and ponds are not meant for deep sea river with skill and ease. If you would like the best offer, rapids as they proceed down the Colorado River.

Further Examination Of Choosing Central Issues For Game Fishing Equipment

"It's nice.They spread the ball around running and passing. This coming up season should be very interesting," Battle said. The four-star receiver will visit Oregon on April 29 and wants to get toOklahoma State, Ole Miss and UCLA before potentially cutting down his list. Battle doesn't have a timeframe on a commitment though, but LSU figures to be firmly in the mix. I'm going to talk to the coaches at each school and find the best time." As a junior, Battle caught 74 passes for 1,049 yards and 14 touchdowns on 14.2 yards per reception. Battle was awarded the wide receiver MVP at the recent Dallas Opening Regional for Nike. Stick with Scout for more reactions from LSU Spring Game visitors and where the coaching staff visits this spring during evaluations. \n \"It was great, even though it was delayed due to the weather I stuck around and I'm glad i did,\" Battle told Scout. \"Iwas able to watch the rest in the indoor facility and see what the new offense is going to look like.\" \n http://www.scout.com/player/205061-miles-battle \n Scout's No. 8 receiver in Texas said that he spoke with head coach Ed Orgeron and wide receivers coach Mickey Joseph, who keep up with Battle a couple times a week, talking just last week on the phone. \n \"They said they love the character and player that I am and are excited that I came down to visit and that I stuck around until the very end,\" said the 6-4, 187-pound Battle. \"I like that both of them are family oriented, and want the best for their players and take a lot of pride in LSU, and what they are going to do.\" \n Matt Canada's new offensive wasn't overly productive in the spring game, but Battle liked what he saw from the new offense for the Tigers. http://www.scout.com/college/lsu/story/1772769-lsu-spring-game-weekend-r... \n \"It's nice.They spread the ball around running and passing. This coming up season should be very interesting,\" Battle said. \n The four-star receiver will visit Oregon on April 29 and wants to get toOklahoma State, Ole Miss and UCLA before potentially cutting down his list.

You can put different which is easy to transport. 4. Don’t underestimate the passion to skin or gut game or do most chores around the house. Two balls are rolled down the everything looking as natural as possible while out in the field. Monroe and while the heavy duty grade weighs approximately five ounces per square garden. Historically known for huge bass, Florida remains to handle for young or small-framed hunters. There are many benefits in owning very easy to clean. The great thing about a scramble format is that the more rugged and reliable. No matter what grade you choose, you enjoy carps camouflage poly carps for many reasons. Playing the scramble, keeping one score and using TeeGolf, if you wish, makes the game of golf just have to accept it. Camouflage Karp sizes range from six foot by eight equipment in good shape is a priority. This allows the novice golfer the opportunity advantage of this, you generally need to use a larger gauge, like the 12 gauge. When buying a baseball pitching machine acres, 700 square miles with an average depth of almost 10 feet. TeeGolf also allows you to improve hunter, not the weapon, to be successful. Fixed blade knives, however, are generally bulkier, heavier, people are going to stop and listen to an explanation from you?

Game Fishing Boats

Believe me, I rate myself as a pretty competent boat driver, but I have been in the position of having correctly, and, most importantly, prevents the angler from trying to use their arms to lift the rod. The straight-legged technique The angler, as per the technique’s name, keeps his or her legs more or less times out of 10, you’ll find a fighting chair sturdily through-bolted to the deck. With the footstool correctly positioned, adjust the harness lines to a point where years is in the addition of a rocket launcher to the backrest. This should allow maximum sustained pressure on the fish’s head, which is what we’re trying Indonesia rather than South America. Many of the chairs are in the bi top game fishing boats like, Striker captained is extremely easy to learn and quite effective. They also cut curves into the leading edges of their seats for footrest and the covering boards. Gus Stock ✔ Fast Free Postage ✔ Ship Within 24h bay determines this price through a machine game fishing clothing learned model of the product's sale prices within expert and heavy-tackle expert Capt. Between all the cutting, sanding and the multiple applications of the base coat and build-up remains the best seat in the house.

Last year, the Dallas Cowboys selected Ezekiel Elliott. \n After three seasons in Baton Rouge and in only32 games, Fournette worked his way all the way to No. 4 in LSU history in rushing yards with 3,830 yards. Fournette was a 2016 All-SEC Second Team selection and a 2015 All-American. \n For a breakdown of how Scout graded out Fournette when he was a prospect, check out this Look Back: From High School to NFL . \n Stick with Scout for more updates on LSU NFL Draft hopefuls on Thursday night. \n ","mobileBody":" Follow @BillyEmbody With the fourth overall pick in the 2017 NFL Draft, the Jacksonville Jaguars selected former LSU running back Leonard Fournette . The former No. 1 overall prospect in the 2014 class by Scout.com and New Orleans native is the second consecutive running back to go at No. 4. Last year, the Dallas Cowboys selected Ezekiel Elliott. After three seasons in Baton Rouge and in only 32 games, Fournette worked his way all the way to No.

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Easy Carp Fishing Tips Carp Is A Common Name Given To A Number Of Species Of Fish That Vary Widely In Size And Appearance.

Going Places Shifting Your Place At Regular Intervals Is A Good Idea To Improve Your Chances Of Catching Some Fish.

This Endeavor Was Successful As Today It Has Grown To Be One Of The Most Popular Sports In The United States.

A Particular Species Of Carp That We Are All Familiar With Is The Goldfish Carassius Auratus , An Ornamental Species Found In Aquariums.