#clothing suppliers in italy

[vivianleighwishesshewasme]

The Italian Beasts Beauty

Green eyed monster

Charlotte finds out about Giana. Luca is surprised by her reaction.

Luca had been trying to avoid her for days. For whatever reason she had refused to take his repeated rejections as gospel truth. He dodged her at every turn outside of his office. She came in cleaning one day wearing a uniform much too tight and too small for her.

He started locking doors in whatever room he was in if Charlotte was absent. She hadn’t seen to catch on yet and Luca wasn’t sure how to brooch the subject to his wife that he’d fucked the maid a few times in the past and now she wanted to follow around the married man making puppy eyes at him. 

Giana refused to accept that Luca wanted to be faithful to Charlotte. He’d told her it had nothing to do with the truce. It really wasn't for him. He was falling in love with  Charlotte “Lottie” May Changretta more and more everyday.

She was young, whip smart and energetic. She made him feel alive even if she also made him feel like an old man trying to keep up with his young bride. 

He couldn’t wait to show her New York, she’d eat it up. She bounced all over his home village when he took her for walks. She reminded him of a little golden retriever. 

She’d playful smacked his chest after sex last time he’d said it. To be fair he’d finally said it out loud. 

He smirked remembering that she’d sat up, the sheets pulling off her creamy white breasts exposing them to him and the chilly night air. She was unpleasantly surprised.

“A big fluffy, fluffy headed dog, that’s what I remind you of? Flattering.” He smirked trying not to laugh out loud, grateful the toothpick in his mouth kept him from opening up his mouth and laughing outright. He didn’t want to accidentally swallow it or give her the idea to toss it down his gullet in anger. 

She was cute but feisty, just how he liked them.

She’d said he was like a cat, powerful and seductive, did whatever he wanted and demanded attention when it was his choosing for it. 

She was perturbed when he shrugged. He couldn’t argue with it. Besides, he didn’t mind cats.  At least she hadn’t called him a dog. 

He smiled to himself wondering what she’d gotten up to. He poked his head out the window seeing his little wife jumping up on the bench trying to capture an orange from the trellis high above her little blonde head.  

She seemed to love oranges. At least on the boat ride back to New York he knew he wouldn’t have to worry about her getting scurvy. He has to find an endless supplier in New York for oranges though. She’d told him they just tasted so wonderful here, like eating straight sunshine. He laughed thinking about her. He was definitely falling in love. 

“Charlotte, Geez let me help you.” He climbed out the large window and briskly strode up to her reaching up with ease to pick the fruit she wanted.

“You look like a little monkey.” He handed it to and thought better of holding it above her head as she jumped and tried to grab his arm. She almost hated getting teased but she was getting better about taking a joke. She’d told him her father had been very playful and fun when they were younger but as they all aged he seemed to get older and more jaded. 

“I can get it.” she scolded him as she missed again and he turned his body slightly making her jump on his back and wrap her legs around him. He laughed out loud at her boldness. He loved when she jumped at him, especially if it led to other amorous activities. 

“Like I said, a little monkey.” His husky tone was causing her to blush furiously, adding some peach blush to her tanned cheeks. Italy had been good for her coloring. He enjoyed peeling off her clothes at night or during the day and kissing her little tan lines. 

“I’m a cute little monkey.” She protested as she tried reaching for it again. He was just too long and lanky for her to be able to reach anything unless he wanted her too. 

“Never said you weren’t.” He leaned his head next to hers and kissed her over his shoulder. A quick little peck but it ignited his blood. He hoped it did hers too.

“Charlotte, you need to ask for help. You're going to topple right over the edge and someone is gonna put you in their pocket.” She bit his neck lightly and he spun, dropping her onto the bench. 

“Save that for tonight Mrs. Changretta.” He jested as she blushed crimson. She hadn’t told him but he knew she loved when he called her that. He was worried though in the future if they fought really long and hard that he might accidentally slip and call her Shelby. He almost had once already.  He knew she’d never forgive him for that.

When he turned he let out an annoyed sigh as Giana walked up to him and asked if she should make a dessert tonight. Her hip was jutted out toward him in invitation and not for chocolate cake, he knew that much. She played with a lone curl that she’d refused to pin up because the first time he seduced her he told her she looked pretty like that. And she had but now he had a little pint sized blonde goddess with his ring on her elegant little finger to bury himself into at his disposal. 

He was a sucker, he knew he was wrapped around her little finger.

“What I told you I’m busy with Charlotte today.” He snapped at her. Tapping the side of Lottie's fruit unaware he was doing it.

“Where is she then?” Giana’s thick accent floated above the scent of flowers and oranges. 

He felt her digits dig in gently to his side as she steadied herself and popped her head out from behind his waist. His body had been shielding her from view.

“Can I help you?” She sounded annoyed and commanding. Giana smiled and backed up a bit pretending she only spoke Italian. I knew better, and now so did Charlotte. The jealousy dripped from her tongue like honey. The Shelby jealousy, that was a trait I hadn’t expected from her but I was happy to hear it. I must mean a little to her if she was willing to defend me from a former lover. 

Giana turned and practically ran into the house. She’d be making herself scarce especially with Charlotte around. Couldn't believe my petite little wife was defending me. It would be comical if I didn't appreciate it. 

I started peeling the orange for her knowing I was avoiding a conversation that was about to start.

“I can do it myself, Luca.” She stood in front of me and held out her palm. I needed to distraction while I thought about how to broach the subject of my and Giana to her. 

“Nah, I wanna do it so I can shove it in that lovely mouth so you stay quiet when I tell you something you ain't gonna like.” I couldn’t believe I’d said that but I did. She blinked at me and opened her mouth to protest. I quickly did as I said I would and placed an orange slice in her mouth. She bit down on it and lowered her eyes dangerously low. 

“I got lonely, a lot. So I have some…women around me in various places that helped alleviate that need willingly. Giana was one of them. I told her I’m off limits, I'm yours and only faithful to you. I can fire her if you want me too but after your little jealous bit there, I think she finally got the hint.” I didn't want to look at her but I did because it was the right thing to do.  

To my surprise she doesn't  seem to care much. No, she seemed sympathetic.

“I know you had people before me Luca, you are way too sexual to have kept in your pants. What I want however, is a heads up in case we go somewhere in the future and I have to drape myself over you to establish my claim.” She approached me seductively and smoothly melting her  body into mine as those large gray blue eyes batted themselves at me. She tilted her head slightly looking up. 

God, I needed her right now! If John Shelby knew how skillfully sinful his little girl would be he’d have locked her up no doubt. 

I almost choked on my saliva. I hadn’t seen this confident sexy side to her yet. I like what I saw. 

“Why don’t we head into the bedroom, Coniglietto and I can show you how appreciative I am of your intelligence.” I handed her the rest of her orange which she tossed behind her as she reached up to climb me on her tippy toes. 

How in the hell could any woman think she could compare to her, my little bunny?

 I pushed him backwards and onto the bed. His eyes were wide by my actions. I wasn’t used to taking charge but I had a new emotion I didn’t feel often.

Jealousy, I could see the little blonde haired green eyed monster reflecting in my husband's green eyes as I straddled him. And lust, his eyes held lust. 

“Lay back or I’ll push you back.” I commanded sounding sexy even to myself.

“Yes Mrs. Changretta.” he did but cleared his throat. He put his hands on my hips and guided me on top of him. “You know I'm only going to take this for so long.” he said. I nodded and slid down his lap unbuttoning his pants and taking them with me off the bed. 

“Oh, you're going to be the death of me.” I giggled showing off my dimples. He loved that about my smile. I reached up and touched my head gently guiding it down. We both knew what I was doing. 

I stroked him first, getting him to full length before I took him into my mouth. His groans. Hip thrusts that he desperately tried to control and pats to my head began to increase.

“Charlotte, pull back, now.” I listened to his command as he panted and flashed me a smile. 

“Come here cowgirl.” I grinned and sat on his lap as he filled me and gripped my hips. 

I was his and he was mine. No other lover was ever going to change that.

[redwholesaleuk]

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[indizombie]

Supply chain transparency goes beyond merely addressing environmental and social concerns; it influences consumer behaviour and builds trust. When brands are transparent about their sourcing and production practices, consumers feel more confident in their purchasing decisions, favouring brands that align with their values. As transparency becomes a defining factor in consumer choices with growing environmental and sustainability awareness, luxury brands have an opportunity to drive responsible practices within the industry. Various fashion houses in France, Italy, the United States (US) and the UK have acquired partial stakes in suppliers to achieve transparency. Chanel and Brunello Cucinelli recently acquired partial stakes in Cariaggi Lanifico, a family-owned cashmere and natural fibre supplier. Through this partial stake acquisition, Chanel will gain more control over how Cariaggi Lanifico sources the natural fibre and over its business practices, enhancing the brand’s sustainability efforts. With growing incentives from the government in France, luxury brands have moved their operations to their home country to be able to track their supply chains. Similarly, Levi’s has adopted manufacturing processes to reduce water usage, while Patagonia introduced a recycled and organic clothing range to its product line.

Radhika Purohit, ‘Towards sustainable fashion apparel supply chains’, Observer Research Foundation

[cleverhottubmiracle]

Dear BoF Community, Welcome to the new world order. The fashion industry is still reeling from President Donald Trump’s “Liberation Day” announcement on Wednesday of new US tariffs that have global fashion brands, manufacturers and emerging businesses around the world grappling with how to respond. Trump reportedly scheduled the announcement on April 2 to avoid it being perceived as an April Fool’s Day joke. But make no mistake, this barrage of tariffs is a foolish, misinformed attempt at economic nationalism which will harm US consumers and possibly lead to a recession.No one expected the tariffs targeted at fashion to be quite as high or as sweeping. As the US imports more than 98 percent of its clothing and about 99 percent of shoes, virtually every fashion item sold in the country will be hit with additional duties, raising prices for consumers and contributing to further inflationary pressures.Goods from Vietnam will be subject to a 46 percent tariff. Cambodia will have a 49 percent duty, Bangladesh will have 37 percent duty, and China is subject to an additional 34 percent tariff on top of already high existing duties. This has pummelled the stock prices of US companies like Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren, PVH, Tapestry and Capri which make clothes and shoes in these key fashion manufacturing hubs, but also international companies including Adidas, H&M and Richemont, which is facing a 31 percent tariff on watches manufactured in Switzerland.Independent designers and brands will feel the hit too. While some American designers make clothes in the US, they usually source their fabrics and textiles from abroad. “This will affect everyone from the lowest price points to the highest of the high,” wrote the American designer Sergio Hudson on BoF’s Instagram post announcing the tariffs. “We produce all in the USA, but fabrics and materials come from everywhere. There is almost zero fabric production in the US. Most fabrics come from Italy, almost all silk comes from Asia. This is very bad.”Now, there are growing signs this will escalate into a global trade war. On Friday, China responded with its own set of tariffs of 34 percent on US imports, set to go in effect on April 10, the day after the US tariffs go into force. The European Union, which is facing a 20 percent blanket tariff from the US, is also weighing its options for a retaliatory response. The months ahead will require careful planning and agile responsiveness to this rapidly unfolding crisis. On Monday, BoF published an Executive Memo with a detailed roadmap of the options that companies can use to mitigate the impact of the tariffs. This will require a comprehensive strategy that involves the whole enterprise rather than just the sourcing team:Pricing: Brands need to first understand what matters most to consumers about their assortment and be strategic with increases rather than boost prices across the board.Merchandising: Brands should be cautious about sacrificing product design or quality, but consider cutting SKUs that aren’t contributing to profitability.Manufacturing: Simply shifting to suppliers in another country will not work, given the sweeping tariffs, so companies should emphasise building resilient, flexible supply chains with redundancies built in.Cost Cutting: The need to cut costs may be unavoidable, but brands also need to consider the extended impacts of any cuts and make sure they don’t come at the cost of long-term brand health.It’s hard to conclude this note with any sense of optimism this week, except to say now is the time to stay calm, maintain perspective and focus on addressing the things under our control. Below you will find links to all of our coverage on the escalating tariffs crisis, and how you can chart a way forward.Have a great weekend.Imran Amed, Founder and Editor-in-ChiefHere are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:1. Executive Memo | An Action Plan for Navigating Trump’s Tariffs. US President Donald Trump’s tariff actions are raising costs for fashion businesses and throwing supply chains into disarray. As his administration prepares a new wave of duties, and other nations retaliate with tariffs of their own, executives have a variety of measures at their disposal to mitigate the impact, from pricing, sourcing and product strategies to financial actions.Opens in new window2. ‘Mind-Boggling’ Tariffs Threaten Fashion With Covid-Level Crisis. The industry is scrambling to adjust to the shockwave of new import duties announced by President Donald Trump on ‘liberation day.’ Many of fashion’s biggest manufacturing hubs are facing the highest tariffs.(Getty Images) 3. Trump’s Tariffs Rock Fashion’s Supply Chain. Some of the most severe import duties announced Wednesday were aimed at apparel manufacturing hubs.(Getty Images) 4. Explainer: How Trump’s Tariffs Threaten Luxury Fashion. The Trump administration’s radical changes to US trade policy won’t push retail prices up enough to directly dampen sales, but the effects on the global economy and consumer sentiment could seriously dent an industry still struggling to bounce back from a sharp downturn in demand.(Getty Images) 5. Sneaker and Apparel Retailers Blindsided by Tariffs on Asian Factory Hubs. Shares in Nike, Adidas and Puma plummeted after Vietnam, the second-biggest apparel exporter to the US, was hit with a 46 percent tariff rate.(Adidas) This Weekend on The BoF PodcastAfter years of honing his craft at Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working for Givenchy, Edun and Golden Goose, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setchu,a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas. “Once you meet the Western garment, it’s free. You can do whatever you want. Some people go too crazy, but designers like Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto are geniuses, for understanding the flow of the fabric, understanding the shape of it but still keeping their Japaneseness,” shares Kuwata.Kuwata joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his Japanese upbringing shaped his creative vision, how Savile Row and Saint Martins gave him the tools to execute it, and why he’s just as focused on designing a company as he is designing clothes. Source link

[norajworld]

Dear BoF Community, Welcome to the new world order. The fashion industry is still reeling from President Donald Trump’s “Liberation Day” announcement on Wednesday of new US tariffs that have global fashion brands, manufacturers and emerging businesses around the world grappling with how to respond. Trump reportedly scheduled the announcement on April 2 to avoid it being perceived as an April Fool’s Day joke. But make no mistake, this barrage of tariffs is a foolish, misinformed attempt at economic nationalism which will harm US consumers and possibly lead to a recession.No one expected the tariffs targeted at fashion to be quite as high or as sweeping. As the US imports more than 98 percent of its clothing and about 99 percent of shoes, virtually every fashion item sold in the country will be hit with additional duties, raising prices for consumers and contributing to further inflationary pressures.Goods from Vietnam will be subject to a 46 percent tariff. Cambodia will have a 49 percent duty, Bangladesh will have 37 percent duty, and China is subject to an additional 34 percent tariff on top of already high existing duties. This has pummelled the stock prices of US companies like Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren, PVH, Tapestry and Capri which make clothes and shoes in these key fashion manufacturing hubs, but also international companies including Adidas, H&M and Richemont, which is facing a 31 percent tariff on watches manufactured in Switzerland.Independent designers and brands will feel the hit too. While some American designers make clothes in the US, they usually source their fabrics and textiles from abroad. “This will affect everyone from the lowest price points to the highest of the high,” wrote the American designer Sergio Hudson on BoF’s Instagram post announcing the tariffs. “We produce all in the USA, but fabrics and materials come from everywhere. There is almost zero fabric production in the US. Most fabrics come from Italy, almost all silk comes from Asia. This is very bad.”Now, there are growing signs this will escalate into a global trade war. On Friday, China responded with its own set of tariffs of 34 percent on US imports, set to go in effect on April 10, the day after the US tariffs go into force. The European Union, which is facing a 20 percent blanket tariff from the US, is also weighing its options for a retaliatory response. The months ahead will require careful planning and agile responsiveness to this rapidly unfolding crisis. On Monday, BoF published an Executive Memo with a detailed roadmap of the options that companies can use to mitigate the impact of the tariffs. This will require a comprehensive strategy that involves the whole enterprise rather than just the sourcing team:Pricing: Brands need to first understand what matters most to consumers about their assortment and be strategic with increases rather than boost prices across the board.Merchandising: Brands should be cautious about sacrificing product design or quality, but consider cutting SKUs that aren’t contributing to profitability.Manufacturing: Simply shifting to suppliers in another country will not work, given the sweeping tariffs, so companies should emphasise building resilient, flexible supply chains with redundancies built in.Cost Cutting: The need to cut costs may be unavoidable, but brands also need to consider the extended impacts of any cuts and make sure they don’t come at the cost of long-term brand health.It’s hard to conclude this note with any sense of optimism this week, except to say now is the time to stay calm, maintain perspective and focus on addressing the things under our control. Below you will find links to all of our coverage on the escalating tariffs crisis, and how you can chart a way forward.Have a great weekend.Imran Amed, Founder and Editor-in-ChiefHere are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:1. Executive Memo | An Action Plan for Navigating Trump’s Tariffs. US President Donald Trump’s tariff actions are raising costs for fashion businesses and throwing supply chains into disarray. As his administration prepares a new wave of duties, and other nations retaliate with tariffs of their own, executives have a variety of measures at their disposal to mitigate the impact, from pricing, sourcing and product strategies to financial actions.Opens in new window2. ‘Mind-Boggling’ Tariffs Threaten Fashion With Covid-Level Crisis. The industry is scrambling to adjust to the shockwave of new import duties announced by President Donald Trump on ‘liberation day.’ Many of fashion’s biggest manufacturing hubs are facing the highest tariffs.(Getty Images) 3. Trump’s Tariffs Rock Fashion’s Supply Chain. Some of the most severe import duties announced Wednesday were aimed at apparel manufacturing hubs.(Getty Images) 4. Explainer: How Trump’s Tariffs Threaten Luxury Fashion. The Trump administration’s radical changes to US trade policy won’t push retail prices up enough to directly dampen sales, but the effects on the global economy and consumer sentiment could seriously dent an industry still struggling to bounce back from a sharp downturn in demand.(Getty Images) 5. Sneaker and Apparel Retailers Blindsided by Tariffs on Asian Factory Hubs. Shares in Nike, Adidas and Puma plummeted after Vietnam, the second-biggest apparel exporter to the US, was hit with a 46 percent tariff rate.(Adidas) This Weekend on The BoF PodcastAfter years of honing his craft at Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working for Givenchy, Edun and Golden Goose, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setchu,a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas. “Once you meet the Western garment, it’s free. You can do whatever you want. Some people go too crazy, but designers like Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto are geniuses, for understanding the flow of the fabric, understanding the shape of it but still keeping their Japaneseness,” shares Kuwata.Kuwata joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his Japanese upbringing shaped his creative vision, how Savile Row and Saint Martins gave him the tools to execute it, and why he’s just as focused on designing a company as he is designing clothes. Source link

[ellajme0]

Dear BoF Community, Welcome to the new world order. The fashion industry is still reeling from President Donald Trump’s “Liberation Day” announcement on Wednesday of new US tariffs that have global fashion brands, manufacturers and emerging businesses around the world grappling with how to respond. Trump reportedly scheduled the announcement on April 2 to avoid it being perceived as an April Fool’s Day joke. But make no mistake, this barrage of tariffs is a foolish, misinformed attempt at economic nationalism which will harm US consumers and possibly lead to a recession.No one expected the tariffs targeted at fashion to be quite as high or as sweeping. As the US imports more than 98 percent of its clothing and about 99 percent of shoes, virtually every fashion item sold in the country will be hit with additional duties, raising prices for consumers and contributing to further inflationary pressures.Goods from Vietnam will be subject to a 46 percent tariff. Cambodia will have a 49 percent duty, Bangladesh will have 37 percent duty, and China is subject to an additional 34 percent tariff on top of already high existing duties. This has pummelled the stock prices of US companies like Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren, PVH, Tapestry and Capri which make clothes and shoes in these key fashion manufacturing hubs, but also international companies including Adidas, H&M and Richemont, which is facing a 31 percent tariff on watches manufactured in Switzerland.Independent designers and brands will feel the hit too. While some American designers make clothes in the US, they usually source their fabrics and textiles from abroad. “This will affect everyone from the lowest price points to the highest of the high,” wrote the American designer Sergio Hudson on BoF’s Instagram post announcing the tariffs. “We produce all in the USA, but fabrics and materials come from everywhere. There is almost zero fabric production in the US. Most fabrics come from Italy, almost all silk comes from Asia. This is very bad.”Now, there are growing signs this will escalate into a global trade war. On Friday, China responded with its own set of tariffs of 34 percent on US imports, set to go in effect on April 10, the day after the US tariffs go into force. The European Union, which is facing a 20 percent blanket tariff from the US, is also weighing its options for a retaliatory response. The months ahead will require careful planning and agile responsiveness to this rapidly unfolding crisis. On Monday, BoF published an Executive Memo with a detailed roadmap of the options that companies can use to mitigate the impact of the tariffs. This will require a comprehensive strategy that involves the whole enterprise rather than just the sourcing team:Pricing: Brands need to first understand what matters most to consumers about their assortment and be strategic with increases rather than boost prices across the board.Merchandising: Brands should be cautious about sacrificing product design or quality, but consider cutting SKUs that aren’t contributing to profitability.Manufacturing: Simply shifting to suppliers in another country will not work, given the sweeping tariffs, so companies should emphasise building resilient, flexible supply chains with redundancies built in.Cost Cutting: The need to cut costs may be unavoidable, but brands also need to consider the extended impacts of any cuts and make sure they don’t come at the cost of long-term brand health.It’s hard to conclude this note with any sense of optimism this week, except to say now is the time to stay calm, maintain perspective and focus on addressing the things under our control. Below you will find links to all of our coverage on the escalating tariffs crisis, and how you can chart a way forward.Have a great weekend.Imran Amed, Founder and Editor-in-ChiefHere are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:1. Executive Memo | An Action Plan for Navigating Trump’s Tariffs. US President Donald Trump’s tariff actions are raising costs for fashion businesses and throwing supply chains into disarray. As his administration prepares a new wave of duties, and other nations retaliate with tariffs of their own, executives have a variety of measures at their disposal to mitigate the impact, from pricing, sourcing and product strategies to financial actions.Opens in new window2. ‘Mind-Boggling’ Tariffs Threaten Fashion With Covid-Level Crisis. The industry is scrambling to adjust to the shockwave of new import duties announced by President Donald Trump on ‘liberation day.’ Many of fashion’s biggest manufacturing hubs are facing the highest tariffs.(Getty Images) 3. Trump’s Tariffs Rock Fashion’s Supply Chain. Some of the most severe import duties announced Wednesday were aimed at apparel manufacturing hubs.(Getty Images) 4. Explainer: How Trump’s Tariffs Threaten Luxury Fashion. The Trump administration’s radical changes to US trade policy won’t push retail prices up enough to directly dampen sales, but the effects on the global economy and consumer sentiment could seriously dent an industry still struggling to bounce back from a sharp downturn in demand.(Getty Images) 5. Sneaker and Apparel Retailers Blindsided by Tariffs on Asian Factory Hubs. Shares in Nike, Adidas and Puma plummeted after Vietnam, the second-biggest apparel exporter to the US, was hit with a 46 percent tariff rate.(Adidas) This Weekend on The BoF PodcastAfter years of honing his craft at Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working for Givenchy, Edun and Golden Goose, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setchu,a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas. “Once you meet the Western garment, it’s free. You can do whatever you want. Some people go too crazy, but designers like Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto are geniuses, for understanding the flow of the fabric, understanding the shape of it but still keeping their Japaneseness,” shares Kuwata.Kuwata joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his Japanese upbringing shaped his creative vision, how Savile Row and Saint Martins gave him the tools to execute it, and why he’s just as focused on designing a company as he is designing clothes. Source link

[chilimili212]

Dear BoF Community, Welcome to the new world order. The fashion industry is still reeling from President Donald Trump’s “Liberation Day” announcement on Wednesday of new US tariffs that have global fashion brands, manufacturers and emerging businesses around the world grappling with how to respond. Trump reportedly scheduled the announcement on April 2 to avoid it being perceived as an April Fool’s Day joke. But make no mistake, this barrage of tariffs is a foolish, misinformed attempt at economic nationalism which will harm US consumers and possibly lead to a recession.No one expected the tariffs targeted at fashion to be quite as high or as sweeping. As the US imports more than 98 percent of its clothing and about 99 percent of shoes, virtually every fashion item sold in the country will be hit with additional duties, raising prices for consumers and contributing to further inflationary pressures.Goods from Vietnam will be subject to a 46 percent tariff. Cambodia will have a 49 percent duty, Bangladesh will have 37 percent duty, and China is subject to an additional 34 percent tariff on top of already high existing duties. This has pummelled the stock prices of US companies like Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren, PVH, Tapestry and Capri which make clothes and shoes in these key fashion manufacturing hubs, but also international companies including Adidas, H&M and Richemont, which is facing a 31 percent tariff on watches manufactured in Switzerland.Independent designers and brands will feel the hit too. While some American designers make clothes in the US, they usually source their fabrics and textiles from abroad. “This will affect everyone from the lowest price points to the highest of the high,” wrote the American designer Sergio Hudson on BoF’s Instagram post announcing the tariffs. “We produce all in the USA, but fabrics and materials come from everywhere. There is almost zero fabric production in the US. Most fabrics come from Italy, almost all silk comes from Asia. This is very bad.”Now, there are growing signs this will escalate into a global trade war. On Friday, China responded with its own set of tariffs of 34 percent on US imports, set to go in effect on April 10, the day after the US tariffs go into force. The European Union, which is facing a 20 percent blanket tariff from the US, is also weighing its options for a retaliatory response. The months ahead will require careful planning and agile responsiveness to this rapidly unfolding crisis. On Monday, BoF published an Executive Memo with a detailed roadmap of the options that companies can use to mitigate the impact of the tariffs. This will require a comprehensive strategy that involves the whole enterprise rather than just the sourcing team:Pricing: Brands need to first understand what matters most to consumers about their assortment and be strategic with increases rather than boost prices across the board.Merchandising: Brands should be cautious about sacrificing product design or quality, but consider cutting SKUs that aren’t contributing to profitability.Manufacturing: Simply shifting to suppliers in another country will not work, given the sweeping tariffs, so companies should emphasise building resilient, flexible supply chains with redundancies built in.Cost Cutting: The need to cut costs may be unavoidable, but brands also need to consider the extended impacts of any cuts and make sure they don’t come at the cost of long-term brand health.It’s hard to conclude this note with any sense of optimism this week, except to say now is the time to stay calm, maintain perspective and focus on addressing the things under our control. Below you will find links to all of our coverage on the escalating tariffs crisis, and how you can chart a way forward.Have a great weekend.Imran Amed, Founder and Editor-in-ChiefHere are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:1. Executive Memo | An Action Plan for Navigating Trump’s Tariffs. US President Donald Trump’s tariff actions are raising costs for fashion businesses and throwing supply chains into disarray. As his administration prepares a new wave of duties, and other nations retaliate with tariffs of their own, executives have a variety of measures at their disposal to mitigate the impact, from pricing, sourcing and product strategies to financial actions.Opens in new window2. ‘Mind-Boggling’ Tariffs Threaten Fashion With Covid-Level Crisis. The industry is scrambling to adjust to the shockwave of new import duties announced by President Donald Trump on ‘liberation day.’ Many of fashion’s biggest manufacturing hubs are facing the highest tariffs.(Getty Images) 3. Trump’s Tariffs Rock Fashion’s Supply Chain. Some of the most severe import duties announced Wednesday were aimed at apparel manufacturing hubs.(Getty Images) 4. Explainer: How Trump’s Tariffs Threaten Luxury Fashion. The Trump administration’s radical changes to US trade policy won’t push retail prices up enough to directly dampen sales, but the effects on the global economy and consumer sentiment could seriously dent an industry still struggling to bounce back from a sharp downturn in demand.(Getty Images) 5. Sneaker and Apparel Retailers Blindsided by Tariffs on Asian Factory Hubs. Shares in Nike, Adidas and Puma plummeted after Vietnam, the second-biggest apparel exporter to the US, was hit with a 46 percent tariff rate.(Adidas) This Weekend on The BoF PodcastAfter years of honing his craft at Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working for Givenchy, Edun and Golden Goose, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setchu,a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas. “Once you meet the Western garment, it’s free. You can do whatever you want. Some people go too crazy, but designers like Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto are geniuses, for understanding the flow of the fabric, understanding the shape of it but still keeping their Japaneseness,” shares Kuwata.Kuwata joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his Japanese upbringing shaped his creative vision, how Savile Row and Saint Martins gave him the tools to execute it, and why he’s just as focused on designing a company as he is designing clothes. Source link

[oliviajoyice21]

Dear BoF Community, Welcome to the new world order. The fashion industry is still reeling from President Donald Trump’s “Liberation Day” announcement on Wednesday of new US tariffs that have global fashion brands, manufacturers and emerging businesses around the world grappling with how to respond. Trump reportedly scheduled the announcement on April 2 to avoid it being perceived as an April Fool’s Day joke. But make no mistake, this barrage of tariffs is a foolish, misinformed attempt at economic nationalism which will harm US consumers and possibly lead to a recession.No one expected the tariffs targeted at fashion to be quite as high or as sweeping. As the US imports more than 98 percent of its clothing and about 99 percent of shoes, virtually every fashion item sold in the country will be hit with additional duties, raising prices for consumers and contributing to further inflationary pressures.Goods from Vietnam will be subject to a 46 percent tariff. Cambodia will have a 49 percent duty, Bangladesh will have 37 percent duty, and China is subject to an additional 34 percent tariff on top of already high existing duties. This has pummelled the stock prices of US companies like Nike, Puma, Ralph Lauren, PVH, Tapestry and Capri which make clothes and shoes in these key fashion manufacturing hubs, but also international companies including Adidas, H&M and Richemont, which is facing a 31 percent tariff on watches manufactured in Switzerland.Independent designers and brands will feel the hit too. While some American designers make clothes in the US, they usually source their fabrics and textiles from abroad. “This will affect everyone from the lowest price points to the highest of the high,” wrote the American designer Sergio Hudson on BoF’s Instagram post announcing the tariffs. “We produce all in the USA, but fabrics and materials come from everywhere. There is almost zero fabric production in the US. Most fabrics come from Italy, almost all silk comes from Asia. This is very bad.”Now, there are growing signs this will escalate into a global trade war. On Friday, China responded with its own set of tariffs of 34 percent on US imports, set to go in effect on April 10, the day after the US tariffs go into force. The European Union, which is facing a 20 percent blanket tariff from the US, is also weighing its options for a retaliatory response. The months ahead will require careful planning and agile responsiveness to this rapidly unfolding crisis. On Monday, BoF published an Executive Memo with a detailed roadmap of the options that companies can use to mitigate the impact of the tariffs. This will require a comprehensive strategy that involves the whole enterprise rather than just the sourcing team:Pricing: Brands need to first understand what matters most to consumers about their assortment and be strategic with increases rather than boost prices across the board.Merchandising: Brands should be cautious about sacrificing product design or quality, but consider cutting SKUs that aren’t contributing to profitability.Manufacturing: Simply shifting to suppliers in another country will not work, given the sweeping tariffs, so companies should emphasise building resilient, flexible supply chains with redundancies built in.Cost Cutting: The need to cut costs may be unavoidable, but brands also need to consider the extended impacts of any cuts and make sure they don’t come at the cost of long-term brand health.It’s hard to conclude this note with any sense of optimism this week, except to say now is the time to stay calm, maintain perspective and focus on addressing the things under our control. Below you will find links to all of our coverage on the escalating tariffs crisis, and how you can chart a way forward.Have a great weekend.Imran Amed, Founder and Editor-in-ChiefHere are my other top picks from our analysis on fashion, luxury and beauty:1. Executive Memo | An Action Plan for Navigating Trump’s Tariffs. US President Donald Trump’s tariff actions are raising costs for fashion businesses and throwing supply chains into disarray. As his administration prepares a new wave of duties, and other nations retaliate with tariffs of their own, executives have a variety of measures at their disposal to mitigate the impact, from pricing, sourcing and product strategies to financial actions.Opens in new window2. ‘Mind-Boggling’ Tariffs Threaten Fashion With Covid-Level Crisis. The industry is scrambling to adjust to the shockwave of new import duties announced by President Donald Trump on ‘liberation day.’ Many of fashion’s biggest manufacturing hubs are facing the highest tariffs.(Getty Images) 3. Trump’s Tariffs Rock Fashion’s Supply Chain. Some of the most severe import duties announced Wednesday were aimed at apparel manufacturing hubs.(Getty Images) 4. Explainer: How Trump’s Tariffs Threaten Luxury Fashion. The Trump administration’s radical changes to US trade policy won’t push retail prices up enough to directly dampen sales, but the effects on the global economy and consumer sentiment could seriously dent an industry still struggling to bounce back from a sharp downturn in demand.(Getty Images) 5. Sneaker and Apparel Retailers Blindsided by Tariffs on Asian Factory Hubs. Shares in Nike, Adidas and Puma plummeted after Vietnam, the second-biggest apparel exporter to the US, was hit with a 46 percent tariff rate.(Adidas) This Weekend on The BoF PodcastAfter years of honing his craft at Savile Row, studying at Central Saint Martins, and working for Givenchy, Edun and Golden Goose, Japanese designer Satoshi Kuwata created the brand Setchu,a deeply personal response to his passion for blending Japanese and Western ideas. “Once you meet the Western garment, it’s free. You can do whatever you want. Some people go too crazy, but designers like Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto are geniuses, for understanding the flow of the fabric, understanding the shape of it but still keeping their Japaneseness,” shares Kuwata.Kuwata joins BoF Founder and CEO Imran Amed to explore how his Japanese upbringing shaped his creative vision, how Savile Row and Saint Martins gave him the tools to execute it, and why he’s just as focused on designing a company as he is designing clothes. Source link

[yabelo2]

Wholesale Clothing in Europe: A Growing Industry with Endless Opportunities

The Landscape of Wholesale Clothing in Europe

Europe has long been a key player in the global fashion industry, with countries like Italy, France, the United Kingdom, and Spain being well-known for their rich history in fashion and textile production. Today, European wholesale clothes Europe suppliers offer a wide range of apparel to meet the needs of retailers across the continent. Whether it’s high-end, luxury garments or trendy streetwear, the wholesale sector provides options for businesses of all sizes.

One of the key benefits of buying wholesale clothing in Europe is the ability to source products from within the continent. This not only reduces shipping times and costs but also supports sustainability efforts by reducing the carbon footprint associated with long-distance shipping. In addition, many European manufacturers uphold high-quality standards, which adds value to the products sold and helps maintain the reputation of the retailers that stock them.

The Role of Online Wholesale Platforms

With the rise of e-commerce, online Fashion Wholesale Europe platforms have become an essential tool for connecting European clothing suppliers with global buyers. These platforms allow retailers to browse vast product catalogs, compare prices, and place orders with ease, all from the comfort of their own offices. By offering a wide range of clothing styles, sizes, and designs, these platforms make it easier than ever for retailers to source inventory that matches their target market.

The convenience and accessibility of online wholesale platforms have led to a surge in small and medium-sized businesses that may have otherwise struggled to access wholesale suppliers. In fact, many online platforms offer low minimum order quantities (MOQs), allowing even smaller retailers to stock popular clothing items without the financial burden of bulk purchasing.

Key Trends in European Wholesale Clothing

As the wholesale clothing market continues to evolve, several trends are shaping the industry:

Sustainability and Ethical Production: Consumers are becoming more conscious of the environmental and social impact of their purchasing decisions. As a result, there is a growing demand for wholesale clothing that is sustainably produced, made from eco-friendly materials, and manufactured under ethical working conditions. Retailers who prioritize these values are more likely to attract environmentally and socially conscious consumers.

Customization and Personalization: Another key trend is the growing demand for personalized or custom-designed clothing. Wholesale suppliers are responding by offering customizable options, from embroidered logos to unique prints and colors, allowing retailers to create a distinctive brand identity.

Technology and Innovation: The incorporation of new technologies into the wholesale clothing industry has also seen significant growth. From augmented reality tools for virtual garment fitting to data analytics that help predict fashion trends, technology is revolutionizing how businesses source and sell clothing. Suppliers who adopt these innovations can stay ahead of the curve and offer unique experiences to their clients.

The Advantages of Wholesale Clothing Transactions

Engaging in wholesale clothing transactions offers numerous advantages for retailers. First and foremost, buying clothing in bulk helps reduce per-unit costs, which can lead to higher profit margins. Wholesale prices often offer significant savings compared to retail pricing, enabling businesses to pass on the savings to consumers or reinvest them into expanding their inventory.

In addition to cost savings, wholesale clothing transactions also allow retailers to offer a broader range of products to their customers. This helps them keep up with ever-changing fashion trends and consumer preferences, ensuring their stores remain competitive in the fast-paced fashion industry.

[luxurydistribution]

Designer Brand dropship: designed with flexibility and scalability and rapid response times!

Designer Brand dropship involves selling high-end luxury products from top designer brands online through a dropshipping model. Though you don't physically hold inventory, you purchase items from a supplier to fulfill customer orders directly. Here, the person acts as a retailer without needing to stock the products yourself. This includes selling designer items like handbags, clothing, or accessories without investing heavily in upfront inventory.

If you are ready to take control and grow with us, then Luxury Distribution, a reputable designer brand dropship service will be your perfect partner. Its comprehensive dropshipping service, extensive product offerings, and user-friendly platform make it unique. When luxury consumers are increasingly turning to online marketplaces, partnering with a premier Luxury Brands Digital Warehouse positions you to meet their demands effectively.

Why choose us

In today’s highly competitive and ever-evolving e-commerce landscape, standing out as a retailer means aligning with the right partners. As a top-notch designer brand dropship service, Luxury Distribution empowers retailers to thrive in the competitive world of online commerce, offering in-season products and trending items that cater specifically to the luxury market.

Comprehensive Dropshipping Service

It understands that customer demands are continuously evolving. Retailers must be prepared to meet these expectations head-on, which is why its dropshipping solutions are designed with flexibility and scalability in mind. Whether you’re a first-party retail channel or a third-party marketplace, they have the tools and resources to help you succeed.

Extensive Product Catalog

Its rich catalog includes high-end clothing, shoes, bags, watches, jewelry, accessories, makeup, cosmetics, and perfumes. By partnering with it, you gain access to an array of luxury products that appeal to discerning consumers.

User-Friendly B2B Live Catalog

This platform features a dynamic B2B Live Catalog. It allows you to browse products easily and efficiently. With no minimum order requirements and real-time product availability, you can manage your inventory seamlessly.

Seamless Integrations

They know the importance of smooth operations. For that, this platform integrates flawlessly with leading e-commerce platforms such as Shopify and WooCommerce. Additionally, they offer API support, ensuring that your online store remains connected and up-to-date.

Global Network of Retailers

Since its inception in Milan, Italy, they have been at the forefront of revolutionizing the B2B2C fashion technology landscape. Its global network connects distributors and brands with a wide range of retailers and online marketplaces, allowing for greater reach and sales opportunities.

Adaptable Solutions and Innovative Technology

As commerce continues to change and consumer expectations rise, its dropshipping solutions remove the complexities associated with managing inventory, packaging, and shipping. They help you uncover new revenue streams and target the luxury brand consumer effectively. They utilize cutting-edge technology so that the platform remains user-friendly and efficient. The real-time updates and seamless integrations allow you to manage your online store without any headache typically associated with drop shipping.

Exceptional Support and Expertise

It takes pride in its ability to wholesale distribution of designer brands. Their commitment to exceptional customer service means you can rely on rapid response times and a reliable, efficient experience. Whether you are a drop shipper or a large marketplace, they are here to support your business needs.

[chooshsworld]

Valentino Garavani women clothing: intricate craftsmanship, sophisticated silhouettes

Valentino Garavani is one of the most celebrated Italian designers, synonymous with luxury, glamour, and timeless romanticism. His collections encompass haute couture, ready-to-wear fashion, and accessories, making the brand a global icon that graces red carpets and major fashion events with breathtaking designs.

Valentino’s signature aesthetic is defined by intricate craftsmanship, sophisticated silhouettes, and a dedicated commitment to opulence. The brand masterfully blends classic femininity with contemporary trends, making it a favorite among celebrities, fashion elites, and style connoisseurs. At Choosh, a premier online marketplace featuring 450+ of the most trending and emerging designers, you’ll find a carefully curated selection of Valentino Garavani women clothing. These collections are known for their ability to showcase femininity through romantic and elegant designs, effortlessly merging classic elements with modern sensibilities.

Major Valentino Garavani Women’s Wear Pieces at Choosh

Valentino Garavani Drill Mini Black Dress

Made in Italy, this dress offers a modern take on classic sophistication. Crafted from Double Compact Drill virgin wool, it features a sleek and fitted silhouette with a slightly flared hem, a round neckline, and chic rose appliqués on the cuffs. Padded shoulders and discreet pockets add a refined touch to this timeless piece.

Valentino Garavani Toile Iconographe Blazer

This double-breasted blazer, made from a luxurious wool and silk blend, redefines power dressing with a contemporary twist. Its structured fit, peak lapels, and padded shoulders create a commanding yet refined look—perfect for both formal and smart-casual occasions.

Valentino Garavani Short Crepe Couture Skirt

A wardrobe essential, this flared mini skirt is crafted from Crepe Couture, a fine blend of virgin wool and silk. The front pockets, accented with jewel buttons, add a touch of elegance, making it a versatile option for day-to-night styling.

Why Choose Choosh for Valentino Garavani Women Clothing?

At Choosh, a top global marketplace for luxury fashion, we are committed to offering the latest Valentino Garavani women clothing with a seamless shopping experience. With express worldwide shipping and new arrivals added almost daily, we ensure you stay ahead of fashion trends while enjoying unbeatable value.

Authenticity Guaranteed

Every piece is 100% authentic, sourced from trusted suppliers and authorized distributors.

Upfront Pricing and Savings

Enjoy Spring/Summer 2025 pieces at up to 40% off below retail at the beginning of the season, allowing you to invest in high-end fashion while keeping your budget in check.

Curated Designer Selection

Our handpicked collection ensures that you always have access to the latest and most stylish designs.

Customer-Centric Approach

We provide a hassle-free shopping experience with a strong commitment to customer satisfaction from selection to delivery.

Expedited Worldwide Shipping

With express worldwide shipping through trusted couriers, you’ll receive your luxury fashion pieces quickly and securely, no matter where you are.

Effortless Luxury Fashion

Whether you're searching for an iconic Valentino piece or refreshing your wardrobe with sophisticated skirts and dresses, Choosh offers a premium shopping experience tailored to your needs. Elevate your style effortlessly with timeless designs that exude elegance, luxury, and confidence.

[cleverhottubmiracle]

Is luxury off the hook?A little under a year ago, Italian prosecutors sent shockwaves through the industry when they linked Armani to sweatshops on the outskirts of Milan as part of an investigation into labour abuses in luxury’s supply chains. Dior was named a few months later. What they’d uncovered was a system of exploitation “so entrenched and proven [that it could] be considered part of a broader business policy exclusively aimed at increasing profit,” Milan’s public prosecutor said in court documents. Further investigations were expected to follow, with around a dozen more brands under the microscope. But months later, no new cases have been filed.Insiders say the luxury sector is stepping up to tackle an issue that’s long been a blind spot and brands appear to have made progress in tightening up their oversight of external suppliers.An Armani unit was released from supervision by a court-appointed administrator last week, after satisfying officials that it had taken the necessary steps to improve its supply-chain controls. An LVMH subsidiary responsible for making Dior-branded handbags is still going through the process, having started months later. Meanwhile, industry leaders and local officials have been working to establish a new protocol for the Lombardy region, where Milan is located, that they say will help prevent future abuses. But critics worry the measures under discussion — voluntary and localised — are simply adding more red tape without really tackling the underlying issues in the sector.“It is difficult to think that the… action of the [Milan Prosecutor’s] Office has induced a widespread and generalised change and in such a short time,” said Deborah Lucchetti, coordinator of Campagna Abiti Puliti, the Italian branch of labour advocacy group Clean Clothes Campaign. “Effective measures to curb… exploitation in the sector must be binding, provide for public reporting on the real improvement of working conditions and, apply to the entire supply chain, not just a single region or even a single country.”Taking ControlLuxury brands have long claimed that their supply chains are free from the labour exploitation that plagues more mass-market labels, thanks in part to their strong connection to Italian manufacturing. For years, they have wielded the “Made in Italy” label as a badge of quality and craftsmanship that helps justify increasingly steep price tags and guarantee responsible working conditions. But Italy’s manufacturing landscape is deeply fragmented. Big brands typically work directly with a small number of suppliers who then subcontract out work as needed, making it difficult to keep track of where goods are really being produced. Decades of pressure to remain competitive in an increasingly globalised market has given rise to a deeply entrenched shadow economy of cut-price manufacturers. And some luxury brands, keen to boost profit margins without sacrificing their “Made in Italy” marketing halo, have not maintained proper controls over their supply chains, according to investigators. Both Dior and Armani have previously said that the links investigators uncovered between their suppliers and Chinese-owned subcontractors that exploited workers were the result of isolated glitches in otherwise robust systems of control. Dior declined to comment further. Sanctions against Armani were “due to the behaviour of two of the numerous suppliers employed by the company who, in addition to violating the company’s code of ethics, betrayed the founding values of the Armani Group, which has never pursued profit as an end in itself and has never waived respect for workers and consumers,” the company said in a statement. Such issues are embedded throughout the industry, according to prosecutors. Previous reports suggest close to a dozen more brands could be ensnared in the Italian probe. Investigators found Jacquemus bags among Armani products at one of the factories they raided last year, according to court documents, though no case has been brought against the buzzy French label. Jacquemus did not respond to a request for comment.Even without further investigations, the impact of the scandal has been felt across the industry, insiders say. Brands have tightened up their auditing systems and placed tougher restrictions on the factories their suppliers can use as subcontractors. “This has had a ripple effect on the other brands. They all went and did their homework,” said Caterina Occhio, a sustainability advisor to the UN and luxury companies and co-founder of ethical supplier network, Ethicarei. “They all got scared.”Under the oversight of its judicial administrator, Armani has updated its corporate governance structures, according to court documents. It’s made strides to map and streamline its supplier base and rolled out training on compliance across the business. It established a new supervisory body to ensure supply chain controls are operating effectively and that issues are acted upon when they arise. The process to onboard new suppliers has been tightened up and manufacturers will now undergo an audit at least once every two years, the documents say.The court praised Armani’s rapid and collaborative approach, granting the company’s manufacturing unit an early release from supervision. The swift remedial steps the business has taken were possible because of systems it already had in place and updates have been “not only effective, but also innovative,” it said.The Prefecture of Milan (a local branch of the interior ministry) has also been consulting on ways to improve supply-chain controls across the industry. A working group that includes government and law enforcement agencies, unions and trade organisations is close to finalising details of a new protocol intended to lay out a common framework of best practices and promote responsible actors.The proposed system lays out guidelines to include commitments to social welfare and labour standards in contract terms, re-enforcing regulatory requirements. It also aims to establish a centralised database where suppliers could upload documents certifying their compliance with tax and labour laws, making it easier for brands and regulators to carry out checks. However, participation would be voluntary and only apply to the Lombardy region, where Milan is located.“The protocol could be a tool for raising awareness and therefore preventing abuse,” said Fabio Roia, the president of the Court of Milan.Red Tape and Regulatory Roll BackThe changes come at a precarious moment for Italy’s manufacturing sector. The luxury downturn has hit the industry hard and manufacturers say they are already drowning in regulatory red tape. More than 3,000 factories making clothing, textiles and leather goods closed last year, according to the portal for Italy’s business register, InfoCamere. Backers say the tool is an opportunity to streamline and simplify an increasingly costly and burdensome tangle of competing standards and auditing systems. Despite its regional scope and voluntary nature, they’re aiming for it to set a precedent that can be rolled out across the country. The participation of key trade groups like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Confindustria Moda means widespread uptake is likely, they say. CNMI and Confindustria Moda declined to comment. “This is not just another audit,” said Andrea Sianesi, professor of operations and supply chain management at the Polytechnic University of Milan and a member of the protocol working group. “The goal for everyone is to keep this as simple as possible.”Critics still worry that the system will simply add another layer of costly bureaucracy for manufacturers, without addressing underlying pressures caused by demand for lower-cost, more agile production from big brands. Questions also remain over how the process will be policed to prevent unscrupulous actors from simply becoming “ghosts in the system,” as one manufacturer put it. Similar measures have done little to prevent abuses in other industries, like agriculture. New tensions are also coming to bear, as the European Union reconsiders flagship regulation intended to make large brands operating in the trading bloc more accountable for labour abuses in their supply chains. For Italian manufacturers, remaining competitive means maintaining a pristine reputation, but the fear is that the systems designed to protect that are themselves too burdensome. “Unless we challenge and change the underlying business conditions that push suppliers to cheat, nothing will change,” said Hakan Karaosman, an assistant professor of sustainable supply chain management at Cardiff University. “Luxury needs to remember that what they do today will be their legacy in 10 to 20 years. And heritage is one of the most critical factors they need to succeed in the marketplace.”Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence. Source link

[norajworld]

Is luxury off the hook?A little under a year ago, Italian prosecutors sent shockwaves through the industry when they linked Armani to sweatshops on the outskirts of Milan as part of an investigation into labour abuses in luxury’s supply chains. Dior was named a few months later. What they’d uncovered was a system of exploitation “so entrenched and proven [that it could] be considered part of a broader business policy exclusively aimed at increasing profit,” Milan’s public prosecutor said in court documents. Further investigations were expected to follow, with around a dozen more brands under the microscope. But months later, no new cases have been filed.Insiders say the luxury sector is stepping up to tackle an issue that’s long been a blind spot and brands appear to have made progress in tightening up their oversight of external suppliers.An Armani unit was released from supervision by a court-appointed administrator last week, after satisfying officials that it had taken the necessary steps to improve its supply-chain controls. An LVMH subsidiary responsible for making Dior-branded handbags is still going through the process, having started months later. Meanwhile, industry leaders and local officials have been working to establish a new protocol for the Lombardy region, where Milan is located, that they say will help prevent future abuses. But critics worry the measures under discussion — voluntary and localised — are simply adding more red tape without really tackling the underlying issues in the sector.“It is difficult to think that the… action of the [Milan Prosecutor’s] Office has induced a widespread and generalised change and in such a short time,” said Deborah Lucchetti, coordinator of Campagna Abiti Puliti, the Italian branch of labour advocacy group Clean Clothes Campaign. “Effective measures to curb… exploitation in the sector must be binding, provide for public reporting on the real improvement of working conditions and, apply to the entire supply chain, not just a single region or even a single country.”Taking ControlLuxury brands have long claimed that their supply chains are free from the labour exploitation that plagues more mass-market labels, thanks in part to their strong connection to Italian manufacturing. For years, they have wielded the “Made in Italy” label as a badge of quality and craftsmanship that helps justify increasingly steep price tags and guarantee responsible working conditions. But Italy’s manufacturing landscape is deeply fragmented. Big brands typically work directly with a small number of suppliers who then subcontract out work as needed, making it difficult to keep track of where goods are really being produced. Decades of pressure to remain competitive in an increasingly globalised market has given rise to a deeply entrenched shadow economy of cut-price manufacturers. And some luxury brands, keen to boost profit margins without sacrificing their “Made in Italy” marketing halo, have not maintained proper controls over their supply chains, according to investigators. Both Dior and Armani have previously said that the links investigators uncovered between their suppliers and Chinese-owned subcontractors that exploited workers were the result of isolated glitches in otherwise robust systems of control. Dior declined to comment further. Sanctions against Armani were “due to the behaviour of two of the numerous suppliers employed by the company who, in addition to violating the company’s code of ethics, betrayed the founding values of the Armani Group, which has never pursued profit as an end in itself and has never waived respect for workers and consumers,” the company said in a statement. Such issues are embedded throughout the industry, according to prosecutors. Previous reports suggest close to a dozen more brands could be ensnared in the Italian probe. Investigators found Jacquemus bags among Armani products at one of the factories they raided last year, according to court documents, though no case has been brought against the buzzy French label. Jacquemus did not respond to a request for comment.Even without further investigations, the impact of the scandal has been felt across the industry, insiders say. Brands have tightened up their auditing systems and placed tougher restrictions on the factories their suppliers can use as subcontractors. “This has had a ripple effect on the other brands. They all went and did their homework,” said Caterina Occhio, a sustainability advisor to the UN and luxury companies and co-founder of ethical supplier network, Ethicarei. “They all got scared.”Under the oversight of its judicial administrator, Armani has updated its corporate governance structures, according to court documents. It’s made strides to map and streamline its supplier base and rolled out training on compliance across the business. It established a new supervisory body to ensure supply chain controls are operating effectively and that issues are acted upon when they arise. The process to onboard new suppliers has been tightened up and manufacturers will now undergo an audit at least once every two years, the documents say.The court praised Armani’s rapid and collaborative approach, granting the company’s manufacturing unit an early release from supervision. The swift remedial steps the business has taken were possible because of systems it already had in place and updates have been “not only effective, but also innovative,” it said.The Prefecture of Milan (a local branch of the interior ministry) has also been consulting on ways to improve supply-chain controls across the industry. A working group that includes government and law enforcement agencies, unions and trade organisations is close to finalising details of a new protocol intended to lay out a common framework of best practices and promote responsible actors.The proposed system lays out guidelines to include commitments to social welfare and labour standards in contract terms, re-enforcing regulatory requirements. It also aims to establish a centralised database where suppliers could upload documents certifying their compliance with tax and labour laws, making it easier for brands and regulators to carry out checks. However, participation would be voluntary and only apply to the Lombardy region, where Milan is located.“The protocol could be a tool for raising awareness and therefore preventing abuse,” said Fabio Roia, the president of the Court of Milan.Red Tape and Regulatory Roll BackThe changes come at a precarious moment for Italy’s manufacturing sector. The luxury downturn has hit the industry hard and manufacturers say they are already drowning in regulatory red tape. More than 3,000 factories making clothing, textiles and leather goods closed last year, according to the portal for Italy’s business register, InfoCamere. Backers say the tool is an opportunity to streamline and simplify an increasingly costly and burdensome tangle of competing standards and auditing systems. Despite its regional scope and voluntary nature, they’re aiming for it to set a precedent that can be rolled out across the country. The participation of key trade groups like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Confindustria Moda means widespread uptake is likely, they say. CNMI and Confindustria Moda declined to comment. “This is not just another audit,” said Andrea Sianesi, professor of operations and supply chain management at the Polytechnic University of Milan and a member of the protocol working group. “The goal for everyone is to keep this as simple as possible.”Critics still worry that the system will simply add another layer of costly bureaucracy for manufacturers, without addressing underlying pressures caused by demand for lower-cost, more agile production from big brands. Questions also remain over how the process will be policed to prevent unscrupulous actors from simply becoming “ghosts in the system,” as one manufacturer put it. Similar measures have done little to prevent abuses in other industries, like agriculture. New tensions are also coming to bear, as the European Union reconsiders flagship regulation intended to make large brands operating in the trading bloc more accountable for labour abuses in their supply chains. For Italian manufacturers, remaining competitive means maintaining a pristine reputation, but the fear is that the systems designed to protect that are themselves too burdensome. “Unless we challenge and change the underlying business conditions that push suppliers to cheat, nothing will change,” said Hakan Karaosman, an assistant professor of sustainable supply chain management at Cardiff University. “Luxury needs to remember that what they do today will be their legacy in 10 to 20 years. And heritage is one of the most critical factors they need to succeed in the marketplace.”Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence. Source link

[ellajme0]

Is luxury off the hook?A little under a year ago, Italian prosecutors sent shockwaves through the industry when they linked Armani to sweatshops on the outskirts of Milan as part of an investigation into labour abuses in luxury’s supply chains. Dior was named a few months later. What they’d uncovered was a system of exploitation “so entrenched and proven [that it could] be considered part of a broader business policy exclusively aimed at increasing profit,” Milan’s public prosecutor said in court documents. Further investigations were expected to follow, with around a dozen more brands under the microscope. But months later, no new cases have been filed.Insiders say the luxury sector is stepping up to tackle an issue that’s long been a blind spot and brands appear to have made progress in tightening up their oversight of external suppliers.An Armani unit was released from supervision by a court-appointed administrator last week, after satisfying officials that it had taken the necessary steps to improve its supply-chain controls. An LVMH subsidiary responsible for making Dior-branded handbags is still going through the process, having started months later. Meanwhile, industry leaders and local officials have been working to establish a new protocol for the Lombardy region, where Milan is located, that they say will help prevent future abuses. But critics worry the measures under discussion — voluntary and localised — are simply adding more red tape without really tackling the underlying issues in the sector.“It is difficult to think that the… action of the [Milan Prosecutor’s] Office has induced a widespread and generalised change and in such a short time,” said Deborah Lucchetti, coordinator of Campagna Abiti Puliti, the Italian branch of labour advocacy group Clean Clothes Campaign. “Effective measures to curb… exploitation in the sector must be binding, provide for public reporting on the real improvement of working conditions and, apply to the entire supply chain, not just a single region or even a single country.”Taking ControlLuxury brands have long claimed that their supply chains are free from the labour exploitation that plagues more mass-market labels, thanks in part to their strong connection to Italian manufacturing. For years, they have wielded the “Made in Italy” label as a badge of quality and craftsmanship that helps justify increasingly steep price tags and guarantee responsible working conditions. But Italy’s manufacturing landscape is deeply fragmented. Big brands typically work directly with a small number of suppliers who then subcontract out work as needed, making it difficult to keep track of where goods are really being produced. Decades of pressure to remain competitive in an increasingly globalised market has given rise to a deeply entrenched shadow economy of cut-price manufacturers. And some luxury brands, keen to boost profit margins without sacrificing their “Made in Italy” marketing halo, have not maintained proper controls over their supply chains, according to investigators. Both Dior and Armani have previously said that the links investigators uncovered between their suppliers and Chinese-owned subcontractors that exploited workers were the result of isolated glitches in otherwise robust systems of control. Dior declined to comment further. Sanctions against Armani were “due to the behaviour of two of the numerous suppliers employed by the company who, in addition to violating the company’s code of ethics, betrayed the founding values of the Armani Group, which has never pursued profit as an end in itself and has never waived respect for workers and consumers,” the company said in a statement. Such issues are embedded throughout the industry, according to prosecutors. Previous reports suggest close to a dozen more brands could be ensnared in the Italian probe. Investigators found Jacquemus bags among Armani products at one of the factories they raided last year, according to court documents, though no case has been brought against the buzzy French label. Jacquemus did not respond to a request for comment.Even without further investigations, the impact of the scandal has been felt across the industry, insiders say. Brands have tightened up their auditing systems and placed tougher restrictions on the factories their suppliers can use as subcontractors. “This has had a ripple effect on the other brands. They all went and did their homework,” said Caterina Occhio, a sustainability advisor to the UN and luxury companies and co-founder of ethical supplier network, Ethicarei. “They all got scared.”Under the oversight of its judicial administrator, Armani has updated its corporate governance structures, according to court documents. It’s made strides to map and streamline its supplier base and rolled out training on compliance across the business. It established a new supervisory body to ensure supply chain controls are operating effectively and that issues are acted upon when they arise. The process to onboard new suppliers has been tightened up and manufacturers will now undergo an audit at least once every two years, the documents say.The court praised Armani’s rapid and collaborative approach, granting the company’s manufacturing unit an early release from supervision. The swift remedial steps the business has taken were possible because of systems it already had in place and updates have been “not only effective, but also innovative,” it said.The Prefecture of Milan (a local branch of the interior ministry) has also been consulting on ways to improve supply-chain controls across the industry. A working group that includes government and law enforcement agencies, unions and trade organisations is close to finalising details of a new protocol intended to lay out a common framework of best practices and promote responsible actors.The proposed system lays out guidelines to include commitments to social welfare and labour standards in contract terms, re-enforcing regulatory requirements. It also aims to establish a centralised database where suppliers could upload documents certifying their compliance with tax and labour laws, making it easier for brands and regulators to carry out checks. However, participation would be voluntary and only apply to the Lombardy region, where Milan is located.“The protocol could be a tool for raising awareness and therefore preventing abuse,” said Fabio Roia, the president of the Court of Milan.Red Tape and Regulatory Roll BackThe changes come at a precarious moment for Italy’s manufacturing sector. The luxury downturn has hit the industry hard and manufacturers say they are already drowning in regulatory red tape. More than 3,000 factories making clothing, textiles and leather goods closed last year, according to the portal for Italy’s business register, InfoCamere. Backers say the tool is an opportunity to streamline and simplify an increasingly costly and burdensome tangle of competing standards and auditing systems. Despite its regional scope and voluntary nature, they’re aiming for it to set a precedent that can be rolled out across the country. The participation of key trade groups like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Confindustria Moda means widespread uptake is likely, they say. CNMI and Confindustria Moda declined to comment. “This is not just another audit,” said Andrea Sianesi, professor of operations and supply chain management at the Polytechnic University of Milan and a member of the protocol working group. “The goal for everyone is to keep this as simple as possible.”Critics still worry that the system will simply add another layer of costly bureaucracy for manufacturers, without addressing underlying pressures caused by demand for lower-cost, more agile production from big brands. Questions also remain over how the process will be policed to prevent unscrupulous actors from simply becoming “ghosts in the system,” as one manufacturer put it. Similar measures have done little to prevent abuses in other industries, like agriculture. New tensions are also coming to bear, as the European Union reconsiders flagship regulation intended to make large brands operating in the trading bloc more accountable for labour abuses in their supply chains. For Italian manufacturers, remaining competitive means maintaining a pristine reputation, but the fear is that the systems designed to protect that are themselves too burdensome. “Unless we challenge and change the underlying business conditions that push suppliers to cheat, nothing will change,” said Hakan Karaosman, an assistant professor of sustainable supply chain management at Cardiff University. “Luxury needs to remember that what they do today will be their legacy in 10 to 20 years. And heritage is one of the most critical factors they need to succeed in the marketplace.”Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence. Source link

[chilimili212]

Is luxury off the hook?A little under a year ago, Italian prosecutors sent shockwaves through the industry when they linked Armani to sweatshops on the outskirts of Milan as part of an investigation into labour abuses in luxury’s supply chains. Dior was named a few months later. What they’d uncovered was a system of exploitation “so entrenched and proven [that it could] be considered part of a broader business policy exclusively aimed at increasing profit,” Milan’s public prosecutor said in court documents. Further investigations were expected to follow, with around a dozen more brands under the microscope. But months later, no new cases have been filed.Insiders say the luxury sector is stepping up to tackle an issue that’s long been a blind spot and brands appear to have made progress in tightening up their oversight of external suppliers.An Armani unit was released from supervision by a court-appointed administrator last week, after satisfying officials that it had taken the necessary steps to improve its supply-chain controls. An LVMH subsidiary responsible for making Dior-branded handbags is still going through the process, having started months later. Meanwhile, industry leaders and local officials have been working to establish a new protocol for the Lombardy region, where Milan is located, that they say will help prevent future abuses. But critics worry the measures under discussion — voluntary and localised — are simply adding more red tape without really tackling the underlying issues in the sector.“It is difficult to think that the… action of the [Milan Prosecutor’s] Office has induced a widespread and generalised change and in such a short time,” said Deborah Lucchetti, coordinator of Campagna Abiti Puliti, the Italian branch of labour advocacy group Clean Clothes Campaign. “Effective measures to curb… exploitation in the sector must be binding, provide for public reporting on the real improvement of working conditions and, apply to the entire supply chain, not just a single region or even a single country.”Taking ControlLuxury brands have long claimed that their supply chains are free from the labour exploitation that plagues more mass-market labels, thanks in part to their strong connection to Italian manufacturing. For years, they have wielded the “Made in Italy” label as a badge of quality and craftsmanship that helps justify increasingly steep price tags and guarantee responsible working conditions. But Italy’s manufacturing landscape is deeply fragmented. Big brands typically work directly with a small number of suppliers who then subcontract out work as needed, making it difficult to keep track of where goods are really being produced. Decades of pressure to remain competitive in an increasingly globalised market has given rise to a deeply entrenched shadow economy of cut-price manufacturers. And some luxury brands, keen to boost profit margins without sacrificing their “Made in Italy” marketing halo, have not maintained proper controls over their supply chains, according to investigators. Both Dior and Armani have previously said that the links investigators uncovered between their suppliers and Chinese-owned subcontractors that exploited workers were the result of isolated glitches in otherwise robust systems of control. Dior declined to comment further. Sanctions against Armani were “due to the behaviour of two of the numerous suppliers employed by the company who, in addition to violating the company’s code of ethics, betrayed the founding values of the Armani Group, which has never pursued profit as an end in itself and has never waived respect for workers and consumers,” the company said in a statement. Such issues are embedded throughout the industry, according to prosecutors. Previous reports suggest close to a dozen more brands could be ensnared in the Italian probe. Investigators found Jacquemus bags among Armani products at one of the factories they raided last year, according to court documents, though no case has been brought against the buzzy French label. Jacquemus did not respond to a request for comment.Even without further investigations, the impact of the scandal has been felt across the industry, insiders say. Brands have tightened up their auditing systems and placed tougher restrictions on the factories their suppliers can use as subcontractors. “This has had a ripple effect on the other brands. They all went and did their homework,” said Caterina Occhio, a sustainability advisor to the UN and luxury companies and co-founder of ethical supplier network, Ethicarei. “They all got scared.”Under the oversight of its judicial administrator, Armani has updated its corporate governance structures, according to court documents. It’s made strides to map and streamline its supplier base and rolled out training on compliance across the business. It established a new supervisory body to ensure supply chain controls are operating effectively and that issues are acted upon when they arise. The process to onboard new suppliers has been tightened up and manufacturers will now undergo an audit at least once every two years, the documents say.The court praised Armani’s rapid and collaborative approach, granting the company’s manufacturing unit an early release from supervision. The swift remedial steps the business has taken were possible because of systems it already had in place and updates have been “not only effective, but also innovative,” it said.The Prefecture of Milan (a local branch of the interior ministry) has also been consulting on ways to improve supply-chain controls across the industry. A working group that includes government and law enforcement agencies, unions and trade organisations is close to finalising details of a new protocol intended to lay out a common framework of best practices and promote responsible actors.The proposed system lays out guidelines to include commitments to social welfare and labour standards in contract terms, re-enforcing regulatory requirements. It also aims to establish a centralised database where suppliers could upload documents certifying their compliance with tax and labour laws, making it easier for brands and regulators to carry out checks. However, participation would be voluntary and only apply to the Lombardy region, where Milan is located.“The protocol could be a tool for raising awareness and therefore preventing abuse,” said Fabio Roia, the president of the Court of Milan.Red Tape and Regulatory Roll BackThe changes come at a precarious moment for Italy’s manufacturing sector. The luxury downturn has hit the industry hard and manufacturers say they are already drowning in regulatory red tape. More than 3,000 factories making clothing, textiles and leather goods closed last year, according to the portal for Italy’s business register, InfoCamere. Backers say the tool is an opportunity to streamline and simplify an increasingly costly and burdensome tangle of competing standards and auditing systems. Despite its regional scope and voluntary nature, they’re aiming for it to set a precedent that can be rolled out across the country. The participation of key trade groups like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Confindustria Moda means widespread uptake is likely, they say. CNMI and Confindustria Moda declined to comment. “This is not just another audit,” said Andrea Sianesi, professor of operations and supply chain management at the Polytechnic University of Milan and a member of the protocol working group. “The goal for everyone is to keep this as simple as possible.”Critics still worry that the system will simply add another layer of costly bureaucracy for manufacturers, without addressing underlying pressures caused by demand for lower-cost, more agile production from big brands. Questions also remain over how the process will be policed to prevent unscrupulous actors from simply becoming “ghosts in the system,” as one manufacturer put it. Similar measures have done little to prevent abuses in other industries, like agriculture. New tensions are also coming to bear, as the European Union reconsiders flagship regulation intended to make large brands operating in the trading bloc more accountable for labour abuses in their supply chains. For Italian manufacturers, remaining competitive means maintaining a pristine reputation, but the fear is that the systems designed to protect that are themselves too burdensome. “Unless we challenge and change the underlying business conditions that push suppliers to cheat, nothing will change,” said Hakan Karaosman, an assistant professor of sustainable supply chain management at Cardiff University. “Luxury needs to remember that what they do today will be their legacy in 10 to 20 years. And heritage is one of the most critical factors they need to succeed in the marketplace.”Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence. Source link

[oliviajoyice21]

Is luxury off the hook?A little under a year ago, Italian prosecutors sent shockwaves through the industry when they linked Armani to sweatshops on the outskirts of Milan as part of an investigation into labour abuses in luxury’s supply chains. Dior was named a few months later. What they’d uncovered was a system of exploitation “so entrenched and proven [that it could] be considered part of a broader business policy exclusively aimed at increasing profit,” Milan’s public prosecutor said in court documents. Further investigations were expected to follow, with around a dozen more brands under the microscope. But months later, no new cases have been filed.Insiders say the luxury sector is stepping up to tackle an issue that’s long been a blind spot and brands appear to have made progress in tightening up their oversight of external suppliers.An Armani unit was released from supervision by a court-appointed administrator last week, after satisfying officials that it had taken the necessary steps to improve its supply-chain controls. An LVMH subsidiary responsible for making Dior-branded handbags is still going through the process, having started months later. Meanwhile, industry leaders and local officials have been working to establish a new protocol for the Lombardy region, where Milan is located, that they say will help prevent future abuses. But critics worry the measures under discussion — voluntary and localised — are simply adding more red tape without really tackling the underlying issues in the sector.“It is difficult to think that the… action of the [Milan Prosecutor’s] Office has induced a widespread and generalised change and in such a short time,” said Deborah Lucchetti, coordinator of Campagna Abiti Puliti, the Italian branch of labour advocacy group Clean Clothes Campaign. “Effective measures to curb… exploitation in the sector must be binding, provide for public reporting on the real improvement of working conditions and, apply to the entire supply chain, not just a single region or even a single country.”Taking ControlLuxury brands have long claimed that their supply chains are free from the labour exploitation that plagues more mass-market labels, thanks in part to their strong connection to Italian manufacturing. For years, they have wielded the “Made in Italy” label as a badge of quality and craftsmanship that helps justify increasingly steep price tags and guarantee responsible working conditions. But Italy’s manufacturing landscape is deeply fragmented. Big brands typically work directly with a small number of suppliers who then subcontract out work as needed, making it difficult to keep track of where goods are really being produced. Decades of pressure to remain competitive in an increasingly globalised market has given rise to a deeply entrenched shadow economy of cut-price manufacturers. And some luxury brands, keen to boost profit margins without sacrificing their “Made in Italy” marketing halo, have not maintained proper controls over their supply chains, according to investigators. Both Dior and Armani have previously said that the links investigators uncovered between their suppliers and Chinese-owned subcontractors that exploited workers were the result of isolated glitches in otherwise robust systems of control. Dior declined to comment further. Sanctions against Armani were “due to the behaviour of two of the numerous suppliers employed by the company who, in addition to violating the company’s code of ethics, betrayed the founding values of the Armani Group, which has never pursued profit as an end in itself and has never waived respect for workers and consumers,” the company said in a statement. Such issues are embedded throughout the industry, according to prosecutors. Previous reports suggest close to a dozen more brands could be ensnared in the Italian probe. Investigators found Jacquemus bags among Armani products at one of the factories they raided last year, according to court documents, though no case has been brought against the buzzy French label. Jacquemus did not respond to a request for comment.Even without further investigations, the impact of the scandal has been felt across the industry, insiders say. Brands have tightened up their auditing systems and placed tougher restrictions on the factories their suppliers can use as subcontractors. “This has had a ripple effect on the other brands. They all went and did their homework,” said Caterina Occhio, a sustainability advisor to the UN and luxury companies and co-founder of ethical supplier network, Ethicarei. “They all got scared.”Under the oversight of its judicial administrator, Armani has updated its corporate governance structures, according to court documents. It’s made strides to map and streamline its supplier base and rolled out training on compliance across the business. It established a new supervisory body to ensure supply chain controls are operating effectively and that issues are acted upon when they arise. The process to onboard new suppliers has been tightened up and manufacturers will now undergo an audit at least once every two years, the documents say.The court praised Armani’s rapid and collaborative approach, granting the company’s manufacturing unit an early release from supervision. The swift remedial steps the business has taken were possible because of systems it already had in place and updates have been “not only effective, but also innovative,” it said.The Prefecture of Milan (a local branch of the interior ministry) has also been consulting on ways to improve supply-chain controls across the industry. A working group that includes government and law enforcement agencies, unions and trade organisations is close to finalising details of a new protocol intended to lay out a common framework of best practices and promote responsible actors.The proposed system lays out guidelines to include commitments to social welfare and labour standards in contract terms, re-enforcing regulatory requirements. It also aims to establish a centralised database where suppliers could upload documents certifying their compliance with tax and labour laws, making it easier for brands and regulators to carry out checks. However, participation would be voluntary and only apply to the Lombardy region, where Milan is located.“The protocol could be a tool for raising awareness and therefore preventing abuse,” said Fabio Roia, the president of the Court of Milan.Red Tape and Regulatory Roll BackThe changes come at a precarious moment for Italy’s manufacturing sector. The luxury downturn has hit the industry hard and manufacturers say they are already drowning in regulatory red tape. More than 3,000 factories making clothing, textiles and leather goods closed last year, according to the portal for Italy’s business register, InfoCamere. Backers say the tool is an opportunity to streamline and simplify an increasingly costly and burdensome tangle of competing standards and auditing systems. Despite its regional scope and voluntary nature, they’re aiming for it to set a precedent that can be rolled out across the country. The participation of key trade groups like Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and Confindustria Moda means widespread uptake is likely, they say. CNMI and Confindustria Moda declined to comment. “This is not just another audit,” said Andrea Sianesi, professor of operations and supply chain management at the Polytechnic University of Milan and a member of the protocol working group. “The goal for everyone is to keep this as simple as possible.”Critics still worry that the system will simply add another layer of costly bureaucracy for manufacturers, without addressing underlying pressures caused by demand for lower-cost, more agile production from big brands. Questions also remain over how the process will be policed to prevent unscrupulous actors from simply becoming “ghosts in the system,” as one manufacturer put it. Similar measures have done little to prevent abuses in other industries, like agriculture. New tensions are also coming to bear, as the European Union reconsiders flagship regulation intended to make large brands operating in the trading bloc more accountable for labour abuses in their supply chains. For Italian manufacturers, remaining competitive means maintaining a pristine reputation, but the fear is that the systems designed to protect that are themselves too burdensome. “Unless we challenge and change the underlying business conditions that push suppliers to cheat, nothing will change,” said Hakan Karaosman, an assistant professor of sustainable supply chain management at Cardiff University. “Luxury needs to remember that what they do today will be their legacy in 10 to 20 years. And heritage is one of the most critical factors they need to succeed in the marketplace.”Disclosure: LVMH is part of a group of investors who, together, hold a minority interest in The Business of Fashion. All investors have signed shareholders’ documentation guaranteeing BoF’s complete editorial independence. Source link