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They boys are back in town. 😎#indoor #multiplex #jtainovations https://ift.tt/31sU3PJ

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Rainy days make for some good flying. #hitecmultiplex @ehobbyhouse http://bit.ly/2WGdKCs

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Definitely sending it. #amaexpo #northwestrc #hitecmultiplex https://ift.tt/2RzDtJI

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DLG type of evening. #HitecRCD #spektrumrc #horizonhobby #dlg #socal #glider https://ift.tt/2NVru7S

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Hey everyone and welcome to our new build guide for the limited edition 64″ MXS-R in Matte White, Red, and Black color scheme. This Step by Step build is brought to you by our Aerobeez Team member Brian Chenoweth! This model is built for 20cc gas engine, but for this build Brian has decided to go with an electric set-up.

Set-Up:

Motrofly 4320-450kv (2200 watts) Hobbywing platinum 100A (swapped out the Gecko 85A) Three standard servos for ailerons and rudder Two mini servos for the elevators Falcon 19×8 electric prop

Before Getting started, take all of the parts out of the box and organize them so you can check for potential damage or missing items.

Step 1: Wing Build

Use CA glue on your fiber hinges.

Then cut a small strip from extra covering and seal the hinge gaps.

Now we can move onto installing the linkage.

Start with the preparing the horn. Lightly sand the portion of the horn that goes into the surface to get a strong bond.

Next we need to find the hole in the surface for the horn, cat a small slot to allow the horn to fit inside. After cutting the slot you can now insert the horn the the support bracket, after you’ve done this you will need to trace and cut the outline of the bracket.

The horn can be glued in with medium CA The final step to finishing the wings is installing the rod.

Now that the linkage and horns are set, mount your aileron servos into both the left and right wings.

NOTE: The servos were a little tall for the wing. There was a slight bulge on the top, inserted a small 3mm washer as a spacer, took care of the problem. 

Alternatively, the Aerobeez 64″ MXS-R comes with supplied spacer mounts for the smaller servos.

To use the servo mounts simply trace over the servo slot and cut inside the outline, these can be glued with medium CA.

Finished aileron control.

Step 2: Tail Assembly

Spacers come blank so Brian used the spare covering included to match the side of the plane.

Spacers for mini servos installed. The plane comes with slots cut for standard servos, but Brian choose to use mini’s for the elevator so he installed the spacers as seen here.

Rough up the control horns like we did for the wing before gluing in.

Prep with painters tape to epoxy the control horn in. Do this for both sides of the elevator and for the rudder and allow time for the epoxy to set.

Split the pre-installed pull-pull system to either side and insert the horzontal stab to the fuse.

Once the stab is centered, set-up the hinges. The hinges are not pre-installed, so both sides need to be glued in. First insert the hinge into the horizontal stabalizer as seen here.

Then insert a T-pin into the fiber hinges. This way you can just press the two halves together and get the perfect gap. Once the two sides are pushed together apply a few drops of thin CA to the hinge.

Now install the elevator servo and control linkage to the elevator horn.

NOTE: Be sure you have allowed enough time for the epoxy used on the controll horn to set-up and create a solid bond.

Finished Tail controls.

Now set-up the pull-pull servo and the other end of the pre-installed pull-pull wire and ball joints.

Finished pull-pull servo set-up.

While inside the fuse, Brian also took the time to instal a small piece of ply-wood as a mounting plate for his electronics.

Step 3: Installing the Landing Gear

Collect the wheels and the package with the axles.

Put both of the wheels together with the left and right axel as seen here.

The landing gear on this plane is fairly large. Definitely larger than a typical 60″ class gear. Doesn’t seem to add any noticeable weight penalty in the air, looks rather cool, makes the plane look bigger than it actually is.

Now space the wheels and axel inside the wheel pants and mount to the carbon fiber gear.

Once that axel is secure, drill pilot holes for the screws.

Finished main gear, perfectly level.

Now remove the landing gear panel under the front of the fuse and mount the landing gear.

Replace the landing gear cover for a clean finish.

Now we move to the tail gear. Brian chose to use the Upgraded Carbon Fiber Tail Gear found in the replacement parts section for the 20cc MXS-R.

Uses a spring as a guide instead of the tiller. Pull the spring to where it has acceptable tension and then secure it with the screw.

Completed tail gear set-up.

Step 4: Motor Mount and Cowl Install

The Motrofly Motor comes with a template. Just center the with the center line on the fire wall and the hole on the template with the hole in the firewall. Then tape in place. and drill pilot holes for the standoff.

Now drill pilot holes for the standoff.

NOTE: The tape on the underside of the template helps keep the drill from walking on the slick carbon fiber firewall.

Motor installed. Brian had standoffs custom made for his build. However, Extreme Flight makes a set of standoffs that would work fine for this application for those of you that migth want an already made solution.

Brian also added a quarter inch nylon bushing to the standoffs as , the original measurments were off slightly. He then glued on a piece of ply to the right side of the motor box.

This allows for the ESC to be in a more forward mount position putting it right in front of the vent hole in the cowl.

Now to mount the cowl in the usual way. It’s not a ringed cowl so you’ll have to get it all lined up yourself.

Once you have it all lined up, tape the cowl into place with the tape you pre-marked for the holes and drill the holes. There are blind nuts installed so you’ll use the 3mm machine screws to mount.

3 inch spinner and Falcon 19×8 electric prop installed.

Now your are ready to fly!

CG Position & Control Throws:

With control throws, please adjust them as shown in Diagram One below. These throws are good for the maiden flight. Please make any adjustments accordingly to your own personal flying style.

Now for C.G., the ideal maiden flight C.G. position is 120mm (4.72 in) behind the leading edge (Refer to Diagram One below). This is measured back from the leading edge at the wing root (where the wing meets the fuse). Please adjust accordingly to your own personal flying style and set-up.

Brian’s CG Notes: CG is neutral at center to back of the wing tube, I balanced it there with the canopy off. Place my 6S 4000 battery toward the back of the tray. I set up my ailerons with about 5 degrees more travel than I usually use to compensate for the wingtips slowing the roll rate, seemed to be perfect as it rolled just about the same as all my other planes. The plane felt great right from the get go, I made no changes to the setup.

Maiden Flight Report:

“Maiden flight went great, was able to get a handful of flights on it. The plane flies really nice, only needed a single click of up elevator. The Motrofly motor had plenty of power, not crazy power, the more scale power I prefer. Seems to be a good all around flyer, not a crazy 3D plane but is certainly up to the challenge, hovers well and does nice easily controlled rolling harriers, the rudder is very powerful! It seems to excel as smooth precise flying, snaps are easy to control and it flies KE dead straight with no mixing. The plane has a lot of side area, needs very little rudder for KE flight. I just found the plane to be a real pleasure to fly, seemed to so do everything I threw at it in a nice controlled manner. I’ve flown a lot of 60″ size planes and there seems to be something different about this plane, I have no idea what  it is.”

-Brian Chenoweth

Final Thoughts:

“For someone who wants a plane that presents a little bigger than a typical 60″ and is still easy to transport, this would be a good choice. The matte color scheme is a good conversation starter at the field I had many members come to check it out, it really is a pretty plane.”

-Brian Chenoweth

We hope that you enjoyed our build log on our 64″ MXS-R. Now go get out there and fly it!

Team Aerobeez

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Customer Name: Ike Sutherland

Location: Sun City West ,  Arizona

Feedback: “I love this plane”

Photos:

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If your going to the AMA Expo tomorrow make sure to stop but the Aerobeez booth (booth #301-303) and check for our demo times! We will be demoing our new 32" Edge and our trusty 48" Extra with Tattu battery's and Hitec Servos! #aerobeezordie #gensace #tattubattery @hitecmultiplex @tattu.miguel @genstattu @gensacebattery http://ift.tt/2iprrkU

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Come join us at the Ontario Convention Center January 6, 7, and 8th, 2017 for the AMA EXPO !!! We will be at Booth # 301 303 305 Don't miss out! See you guys there! :) http://ift.tt/2j9pj0p

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Aerobeez 78″ Extra 330 Raiden Electric Build Guide

Hey Everyone! Welcome to our Step By Step ELECTRIC build log for the NEW 78″ Extra 330 Raiden. We have our Step-By-Step GAS build guide as well as the Electric Motor/ESC Install, but we want to walk you through the full process of building this model for Electric. We put alot of effort into R&D on this model and used both our experience with the prototype and feedback from our loyal fans to deliver one of the most stunning 3D monsters this year for our 35-55c class. Like previous models, you will notice that the 78″ Raiden has been pre-hinged on all surface areas with exception to the rudder. This helps reduce your build time, but we still recommend that every builder takes the time to spot check all surfaces and apply extra glue when needed.

All steps in this build have been brought to you by our very own team member, Brian Chenoweth.

Brian’s Setup: Motrofly 5327-195kv http://ift.tt/2fSUnBt Jeti Mezon 115A Opto Controller Falcon 22×10 wood electric prop Hitec HS-5585MH HV Monster Torque servos Jeti R9 reciever Bavarian Demon Cortex

Pre-Build Recommendations:

Before we start building, be sure to have some lock-tight or blue thread locker. Gather all of you tools and take inventory of the parts in the box.

All the parts individually packaged with labels, wing, rudder, elevator. Main wheels have aluminum hubs and the tail wheel design is solid!

Now, onto the build!

Section 1: Wing Setup and Servo Install

Note: Brian likes to start all of his builds with the wings. You can choose to start with another area if you prefer, but for this guide, this is where we begin.

Ailerons are all pre-hinged with flat Dubro nylon hinges so the first step is to seal the hinge gap. Brian used the white covering that is provided in the kit, though you could also use 3M Blenderm tape as an alternative solution. Once you cut the covering for each gap, iron it into place.

Now to run the servo leads. Break off the tab to provide the pull-string through the wing.

Then add your 12-15 inch servo extension cable to the servo lead. Once installed, tie the thread that is attached to the tab you broke.

Now break the tab off at the base of the wing and pull the lead through.

Once the lead is pulled through, seat the servo into the servo slot and pre-drill screw holes with a 1/16th drill bit. Repeat this step for each Servo as you get to them.

After the servos have been prepared, find the slots on your wing, and cut them open.

Before you mount the control horns with epoxy, be sure to rough them up with sandpaper or an exacto blade. This will create a stronger bond once mounted.

Now seat the horns without epoxy and score the covering around them with your exacto blade.

 Now remove the horns and peal away the skin from the mounting slots.

Mask around the area with blue painters tape, apply 30 minute epoxy to the area, and then re-seat the horns with mounting plate.

Repeat these steps for each wing and the elevator when ready and allow 30 minutes for the epoxy to dry. Once all the control horns dry, mount your push-rods to the servo arms and control horns like you see here.

Section 2: Rudder Setup with Pull-Pull Servo Mount

Seat your rudder servo into the provided slot inside the fuse and pre-drill with 1/16th drill bit.

NOTE: For this build we want more weight toward the front of the model for proper CG balance. If you choose a heavier motor for your build, there is a push/pull servo location at the back of the fuse near the rudder.

Now, locate you pull/pull opening at the back of the fuse and run the cables down from the pull/pull servo through the fuse and out. Once you have pulled the cables through and set them up with proper tension, you can then recover the hole in the fuse with some extra black repair skin that is provided in the kit.

NOTE: Be sure to leave a hole for the wires to travel smoothly.

Mount the carbon fiber tail wheel assembly with three screws, blind nuts are installed in the fuselage.

Now find your rudder and use the blue painters tape to protect it from the epoxy.

Then coat the hinge lines of each of the flat hinges with Vaseline. This is done to prevent excess epoxy from gluing the hinge and binding the movement of the joint/hinge.

Once the hinges have all been preped, fill the slots on the rudder with 30 minute epoxy and slide the hinges into place.

Now mask off the verticle stab.

Fill slots liberally with 30 minute epoxy and insert rudder fully into hinge.

Tape rudder in place while epoxy cures.

Once the epoxy has had time to fully cure on the rudder hinge, turn the model over to finish the tail wheel mount. The tail wheel assembly makes use of a single spring as a guide, it’s a very simple yet effective design. Pull the spring to a satisfactory tension and then secure it with a single self-tapping wood screw.  Aslo install the pull/pull cables to each side of the rudder at this point.

Section 3: Elevator & Servos

Now locate the elevator servo slots. Tie both elevator extensions together so they can be run through the provided tunnel in the fuselage. There is string installed at both ends just like on a wing.

Use the string to pull the servo wires through.

Now seat both servos into their servo bay and bolt them in.

Brian’s Building Note: He always prefers to use hex head self tapping screws from RTL.

Now, if you installed the controll horns earlier while working on your wings, perfect, but if you did not, then do that now using the same method as the wings. Then slide the elevator halves into place.

Once the elevators or mounted, install the push rods on both sides.

A pair of 3mm socket head screws secure the halves in place. Notice the placement of the elevator servos, as this is how they should look when ready.

Section 4: Main Landing Gear

Install axle. Make sure to slide on the land gear fairings first.

Install the wheels, a wheel collar goes on both sides to help align the wheel.

Slide the wheel pant in place and secure with the 3mm socket heads screws. The blind nuts are pre-installed.

Completed landing gear.

Now flip the airplane fuselage over and remove the gear cover. Put Locktite in each of the blind nut holes.

Mount the landing gear.

Glue the landing gear cover in place. We recommend using Epoxy for this step, though you may choose to use Epoxy or CA.

Section 5: Motor & ESC Install

Motor: DM-5327 from Ken at Subsonic Planes wound to 195Kv for a 22×10 prop

Standoffs: Extreme Flight Motor Standoffs from Tim at Northwest RC.

NOTE: These are the extra large set, but they still came up 5mm short. I had to pull out a couple of the small sizing sections and add in a half inch nylon spacer. 

Step 1: Motor Template

Brian made a template from the motors x-mount. Once the mount is drawn and cut, tape over it with masking tape to hold it in place and keep your drill bit from traveling on the slick carbon fiber firewall.

Step 2: Standoffs

Now install the standoffs. For this set-up Brian used the Extreme Flight motor standoffs. They are easily adjustable to get the right length.

Back of the standoffs have a nice solid machined aluminum washer.

Step 4: Install the Motor

Step 5: Trim the Cowl

The bell housing on the DM-5327 Electric Motor was rubbing slightly, so we needed to enlarge the hole in the cowl slightly.

NOTE: With other electric motors this step may or may not be needed. Always test fit make sure that fitment is clean with no rubbing and only cut/trim if neccessary.

Step 6: Mount ESC

Due to the electric motors light weight, Brian wanted to get as much weight forward as possible. He also wanted the controller to be directly inline with the cowl opening for good cooling. With these goals in mind, he decided to construct a mount for the Mezon Controller with some stock plywood.

Secure the plywood into the place you want to mount and then drill pilot holes through the plywood and the carbonfiber motor box. Once the holes are drilled, bolt your plywood piece into place.

Now bolt the Mezon ESC into the desired position on the mount board.

Section 6: Finishing Touches

Glue in some 1/8 inch ply to help support the twin 6S battery pack set-up that Brian recomends for this build.

Install a platform to mount the RX and Gyro.

 Test CG with the 6S 4000 batterie setup. They mount about a half inch from the firewall for correct CG on this build. RX pack is a 2S 2100 battery mounted on the rear of the battery platform.

Brian’s TIPS:

CG: The plane balanced at the rearward SFG screw at the wingtips, it was perfectly neutral which is how Brian sets up his planes. This can be adjusted depending on flying style and personal preferance.

Throws: For 3D throws start off on the elevators and rudder at around 55degrees, and the ailerons at around 30degrees. When adjusting, work your way from these measurements at roughly 5degree increments.

For low rates set everything at around 20degrees with around 50% expo and work your way from there at roughly 3degree increments.

Brian’s Final Thoughts: “Plane flies great, light on the wing but not too floaty, I feel like it’s designed to be a compromise between the old school low and slow and the XA type aerobatics. Being an Extra is also excels at precision flying. Getting close to 5 minutes on the twin 6S 4000 packs. Very pleased with how this plane turned out, looks great and flies great.” – Brian

Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

Like us on Facebook, follow us on Instagram and Twitter and subscribe on YouTube!

Also be sure to sign up to the Aerobeez Newsletter for updates and news each week.

Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez

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Heres is a new look at the Aerobeez 106" Slick 540! This plane is outfitted with a DLA-116cc engine, Hitec HS-9380th servos all around and Gens Ace 3800mah 2s battery's . Great new airplane and is Team Pilot Orel's airplane of choice for the upcoming 2017 flying season! #Aerobeezordie #imac2017 #hitecrcd #DLAEngines #GensAce @hitecmultiplex @tattu.miguel http://ift.tt/2g8Gq1y

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Aerobeez 78″ Extra 330 Raiden Electric Motor Install & Setup

Hey Everyone! Welcome to our Electric Motor Install for the 78″ Extra 330 Raiden. This guide is intened to suppliment our Step By Step build log for the NEW 78″ Extra 330 Raiden. We have put alot of effort into R&D on this model and used both our experience with the prototype and feedback from our loyal fans to deliver one of the most stunning 3D monsters this year for our 35-55c class.

Setup

Motor: DM-5327 from Ken at Subsonic Planes wound to 195Kv for a 22×10 prop

Standoffs: Extreme Flight Motor Standoffs from Tim at Northwest RC.

NOTE: These are the extra large set, but they still came up 5mm short. I had to pull out a couple of the small sizing sections and add in a half inch nylon spacer. 

Step 1: Motor Template

Brian made a template from the motors x-mount. Once the mount is drawn and cut, tape over it with masking tape to hold it in place and keep your drill bit from traveling on the slick carbon fiber firewall.

Step 2: Standoffs

Now install the standoffs. For this set-up Brian used the Extreme Flight motor standoffs. They are easily adjustable to get the right length.

Back of the standoffs have a nice solid machined aluminum washer.

Step 4: Install the Motor

Step 5: Trim the Cowl

The bell housing on the DM-5327 Electric Motor was rubbing slightly, so we needed to enlarge the hole in the cowl slightly.

NOTE: With other electric motors this step may or may not be needed. Always test fit make sure that fitment is clean with no rubbing and only cut/trim if neccessary.

Step 6: Mount ESC

Due to the electric motors light weight, Brian wanted to get as much weight forward as possible. He also wanted the controller to be directly inline with the cowl opening for good cooling. With these goals in mind, he decided to construct a mount for the Mezon Controller with some stock plywood.

Secure the plywood into the place you want to mount and then drill pilot holes through the plywood and the carbonfiber motor box. Once the holes are drilled, bolt your plywood piece into place.

Now bolt the Mezon ESC into the desired position on the mount board.

NOTE: This step is not necessary, but it is a great way to adjust component location and weight distibution for CG instead of adding external LEAD weights.

This Electric Motor setup is brought to us by Team Rep: Brian Chenoweth

Thank you all for tunning in for our 78″ Extra 330 Raiden Electric Setup build guide supliment. For all other steps on the build please go check out the Aerobeez 78″ Extra 330 Raiden Build Log.

Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

Like us on Facebook, follow us on Instagram and Twitter and subscribe on YouTube!

Also be sure to sign up to the Aerobeez Newsletter for updates and news each week.

Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez

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Customer Name: Charles Brooks

Location: Nicholasville, Kentucky

Feedback: “Thanks agin AeroBeez for the laser!!!! First flight was a little nose heavy but still flew great. Holds a knife edge pretty good.“

Photos:

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Customer Name: Sameem Elia

Location: Yuma, Arizona

Feedback: “I’ve only been lying for nine months this plane is superlight. I love everything about it!!!“

Photos:

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Aerobeez 105″ Extra 330 Reaper Step by Step Build Log

Hey everyone! Welcome to the Step by Step build log for the NEW 105″ Extra 330 Reaper! We have put a lot of research and development into this kit. With customer feedback on existing models as well as our own experience with the prototypes to help develop our first 105″ model, this model is packed with what has become the Aerobeez standard. We also cut down build time in many areas by pre-hinging control surfaces. This build will be following our team pilot Orel’s build steps and will include personal tips and tricks that he uses when building any of his models.

Orel’s Set-Up: Engine: DLA-116cc Servos: 7 x Hitec HSB-9380th (All Control Surfaces) 1 x Hitec HS-5665 (Throttle) Prop: Xoar 28×8 Battery: 2 x Gens Ace 2s 3500mah RX pack

Before we start building, Orel highly recommends using lock-tight for every single screw in the airplane.

Step 1: Prep

Lay everything out on the table before we begin to make sure we have everything. Then go through all the joints in the fuselage with thin CA.

Step 2: Control Horns & Suraface Install Now locate your wing, stabilizer, and rudder bag and remove all of the control horns and lay them out in front of you. Using sand paper, sand the bottom part of the control horn as seen in the picture below.

Next locate all of your ball links and linkages, they should already be installed together from the factory. The four shortest ones are for your ailerons, the two medium sized ones are for your elevators, and the longest one is for you rudder.  Once everything is organized, slide the control horn plate in between the two control horns and screw in your ball links to the control horn. Use lock tight for the screws. Repeat this step to all of your control horns. Orel will be using the push-pull method in this build in order to get the servo feel he desires, though hardware is availavle for a pull-pull set-up if you prefer.

Now find and prep the control horn slots. For the control horns on the wings, the slots can be found underneath the servo bay on the aileron and a little to the side. Cut the slits open with a knife so that you can slide in the control horns later.

NOTE: The wing comes with the option to use three servos, however Orel will only be using two servos. The two spots Orel will use are the one that is furthest away from the cord of the wing and the one that is closest. He will not be using the middle servo slot.

Next slide in your control horns and cut the are around it with a sharp knife.

Using masking tape, mask the area around the control horn. This is so epoxy wont get on the covering when we glue in the control horn.

Remove the control horn and pull away the covering we cut earlier.

Now repeat these steps to all of the control surfaces.

At this point we can begin mixing our epoxy. Orel uses recommends using at least a 15 minute epoxy. Once the epoxy is mixed we can apply some onto the control surface itself and also on the control horn, on the side that is going to be inserted into the wing.

Now install the control horn. Once in place, use a paper towel that has been dampened with acetone and clean away the excess epoxy.

While the epoxy is still wet, peel away the masking tape and go over that area with a paper towel dampened with acetone. Repeat this step on all of the control surfaces.

Step 3: Main Landing Gear Install

Now locate your carbon fiber landing gear, wheel pants, gear cuffs, and landing gear accessory bag.

Slide the gear cuffs onto the landing gear, make sure its on the correct way. The front of the landing gear is the flat side, the rear is a bit tapered as you can see in the picture above. The right side of the gear in the picture is the front. The shortest part of the gear cuff should be in the front of the rear, the rear part of the cuff extends out a little bit more for looks. Do not glue in the cuffs yet!

Now screw in the axle into the carbon fiber landing gear. Make sure to put locktite on the threads of the axle!

Find all four of the wheel collars and take them out of the bag. Remove all of the set screws and lay them out on the table. Put locktite in all of the collars where the set screw goes in, this is a very important step! Without the locktite the set screws are bound to vibrate loose! Put the set screws into the collars but do not tighten all the way.

Now slide the collar onto he axle, but do not tighten it yet. Put the wheel pant where it is supposed to be in order to determine the distance between the collar and the axle. Once you have determined the proper distance for the collar to be, tighten the collar, slide on the wheel, slide on the other collar and tighten. Repeat the same steps for the other side. This kit like our others has the blind nuts pre-installed into the wheel pants for you! Orel, however, does not like putting the wheel pants on the landing gear just yet. This is because Orel does not want them to get scratched. So, for now, put in your bolts into the wheel pants and keep them in a safe place until he end.

At this point flip the airplane over to its underside, remove the gear cover, and test fit the main gear.

Once you have the landing gear in place, gather your four landing gear bolts and then slide the bolts through the gear cover plate.

Locate the four nuts and washers that are needed to install the lading gear and put some locktight on the threads.

Slide the screws in place through the bottom side of the air frame.

Put the nuts on and tighten.

Now move your gear cuffs to the desired location and put a few strips of masking tape on the bottom of the gear cuff.

Slide down the gear cuff and place some epoxy on the place where the gear cuff meets the landing gear.

Slide the gear cuff in place, remove the masking tape, and clean up excess epoxy. Repeat these steps for both sides.

Step 4: Perpare & Install the Fuselage Hatch Panels

Remove the tape holding the hatch in the back as shown in the picture below.

Locate the wood screws that are meant to screw the hatch to the wood.

NOTE: In Orel’s build log, he did not cut away the covering in the hatches, but it is highly recommended to cut away the covering in the holes for proper air flow and cooling.

See the hatches installed without the slots cut.

Use the example below of the 78″ Extra 330 hatch pannel as a refference on how the slots should look.

Step 5: Install the Rudder & Tail Gear

First find the rod used as a pin for the rudder hinges and the collar attached to it.

Remove the collar, and line up the rudder, slide the pin though the rudder hinge slot.

Once you have slipped the rod through, put a collar on the bottom side of the rod that sticks out and lock tight the set screw.

Now locate your tail wheel assembly, springs, wood screw, and the three bolts supplied with the kit. The tail wheel is mostly pre-built so all you will need to do is bolt it on. This is just one of many pre-built steps that help you get your plane flying just a little bit faster!

NOTE: With all pre-built parts, it is highly recommended to inspect them carefully for any fitment that may need to be adjusted or tightened as parts may have shifted during shipment.

Slide the bolts into the tail wheel assembly and put locktit on the threads of all the bolts.

Bolt the tail wheel assembly in place

Now take both of the springs and bend the end about 270degrees.

Slide the bent part of the springs into the holes on the assembly.

Slide the bent piece into the spring.

Follow the same steps to three pronged mounting plate.

Pull until the springs have tension.

Now screw the three pronged mount into place.

Step 6: Installing Our Servos

Once the wing control horns have dried completely, we can now work on connecting and installing the servos. Remove the servo bays from the wings and remove the covering as shown in the picture below.

Attach the arms to your servos. For this build, Orel used the Hitec HSB-9380TH servo.

Bolt the servos into place.

NOTE: You may need to shave or cut a little wood off the mounting plate. Be sure the servo arm does not rub.

Locate the line in the servo bay to help run your servo extensions to the outside of the wing.

Tie one end to your servo extension.

Pull through the end. Repeat this step for both wing servos and for both wings.

Screw your servo bay in with the supplied wood screws, and connect your servo to the ball links, remember to use locktite. Repeat this step for both wings.

Now cut away the covering on the horizontal stabalizers where the servo arm will stick out of.

Bolt on your elevator servo, and connect your push rod to your servo arm. Remember to use locktite.

Cut the servo hole for the rudder and elevators. The rudder servo location is directly under the elevators and the elevator servo locations are directly in front of the elevators on either side of the fuselage. On the right side of the fuselage inside the tail, there is a piece of string used to run the servo extensions through the fuselage.

NOTE: At the end, you will need to use a bit of grey covering that comes with the kit and cover up the right square so that it wont show up when you put the elevators on, but for building purposes it is necessary to cut this hole.

Run all of your servo extensions through this hole and tie them to the string as seen in the images below.

Pull extensions through the tube inside of the fuselage.

Step 7: Install the Fuel Tank

This is another area that is mostly done for you already. The kit comes standard with the Aerobeez Clear bottle fuel tank and has already been pre-plumbed! All you need to do is remember to remove the spare o-rings that come inside.

Then remove the covering from the little hole shown below, and screw in your fuel dot.

Now run your fuel lines to the necessary locations.

Step 8: Install the Engine

Tape your engine mounting template to the firewall. Make sure to line up the lines to he firewall.

Drill out the holes, and mount your engine. Remember to use locktite.

Install your throttle servo in the desired location and connect it to the engine.

NOTE: Placement of your throttle servo may vary slightly depending on motor weight and size.

Then cut the holes in your cowl by lining it up under your engine.

You are now complete with your Aerobeez 105″ Reaper Extra 330sc! Happy Flying!

OREL’s PRO TIPS:

Center of Gravity [CG]: Using a DLA-116cc engine with the rudder servo in the rear and a Gens Ace 3500mAh 2s RX pack strapped right behind the wing tube, Orel got the CG to balance right on the wing tube.

Throws: For 3D throws, Orel recommends starting off on the elevators and rudder at around 55degrees, and the ailerons at around 30degrees. Orel generally starts off with around 60% expo on the radio. Work your way from these measurements at roughly 5degree increments.

For low rates, Orel recommends setting everything at around 20degrees with around 50% expo and work your way from there at roughly 3degree increments.

Final Thoughts: “Aerobeez did a real good job on designing this frame. This frame snaps clean, and tracks strait and true. For 3D it harriers rock solid and over all has the same good flying characteristics from its younger brothers.” -Orel Elbaz

 Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

Like us on Facebook, follow us on Instagram and Twitter and subscribe on YouTube!

Also be sure to sign up to the Aerobeez Newsletter for updates and news each week.

Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez

[aerobeez]

Some Aerobeez filming today with the 105" Extra and the 78" Extra. Stay tuned! #dla116 #HitecRCD #HSB-9380th #GensTattu #Gensace #Gensace3500mah2s @hitecmultiplex @genstattu @orelislife http://ift.tt/2dqDTSG

[aerobeez]

Aerobeez 78″ Extra 330 Raiden Build Log

Hey Everyone! Welcome to our Step By Step build log for the NEW 78″ Extra 330 Raiden. We have put alot of effort into R&D on this model and used both our experience with the prototype and feedback from our loyal fans to deliver one of the most stunning 3D monsters this year for our 35-55c class. Like previous models, you will notice that the 78″ Raiden has been pre-hinged on all surface areas with exception to the rudder. This helps reduce your build time, but we still recommend that every builder takes the time to spot check all surfaces and apply extra glue when needed.

All steps in this build have been brought to you by our very own team pilot, Orel Elbaz.

Orel’s Setup: – 50cc Sized Engine – Hitec HS-7950TH servos on all control surface areas – Hitec HS-5665 on throttle – Xoar 22×10 – Gens Ace 2s 3500mah RX pack

Orel’s Pre-Build Recommendations:

Before we start building, be sure to have some lock-tight or blue thread locker. Orel likes to use it on every single screw in the airplane.

Now, onto the build!

Step 1: Control Horn & Push-Rod Prep

Lay everything out on the table before you begin to make sure you have everything.

Locate your wing, stabilizer, and rudder and remove all of your control horns. Once you gather all of the control horns, lay them out in front of you. Using sand paper we will sand the bottom part of the control horn as seen in the picture above. This is done to help create a rough surface that will allow the glue to wood contact be be very strong.

You may notice that four of your control horns are shorter than the rest. These are for the rudder control horns if you decide to run pull-pull set-up.

NOTE: You will not be able to fit two of the regular sized control horns on each side of the rudder for pull-pull, so be sure to set these aside if you plan on doing a pull-pull set-up.

Next locate all of your ball links and linkages, they should already be installed together from the factory. The two shortest ones are for your ailerons, the two medium sized ones are for your elevators, and the longest one is for you rudder.

Slide the control horn plate into two control horns and screw in your ball links to the control horn. Use lock tight for the screws.

Repeat this step to all of your control horns.

NOTE: Orel will be going with the push-pull method in this build in order to get the CG to balance better using a 50cc engine.

Step 2: Preparing Control Surface

Locate the placement for the control horns on the wing. They are located underneath the servo bay on the aileron and a little to the side. Cut the slits open with a knife so that you can slide in the control horns later.

Next slide in your control horn and mark the are around it with a pen.

Now, using masking tape, mask the area around the control horn. This is done to prevent epoxy from geting onto the covering when we glue in the control horn.

Remove the control horn and cut away any extra covering.

Now repeat these steps to all of the control surfaces.

Step 3: Installing Control Horns

Begin mixing our epoxy. Once our epoxy is mixed we can put some epoxy on the control surface itself and also on the control horn, on the side that is going to be inserted into the wing.

NOTE: Orel likes to use five minute epoxy but for this step we recommend using at least a 15 minute epoxy. 

  Using a paper towel that has been dampened with acetone clean away any excess epoxy.

  While the epoxy is still wet, peel away the masking tape an go over that area with a paper towel dampened with acetone. Continue this step to all of the control surfaces.

Step 4: Building & Mounting the Main Landing Gear

First, locate your carbon fiber landing gear, wheel pants, gear cuffs, and landing gear accessory bag.

Test fit the gear cuffs onto the landing gear. Orel likes to do this for fitment as well as to show proper front and back orientation of the gear. The front of the landing gear is the flat side, the rear is a bit tapered as you can see in the picture below. The right side of the gear in the picture is the front. The shortest part of the gear cuff should be in the front of the gear, the rear part of the cuff extends out a little bit more for looks.

NOTE: Do not glue in the cuffs yet!

Now screw in the axle into the carbon fiber landing gear. Make sure to put locktite on the threads of the axle!

Next, gather all four of the wheel collars and take them out of the bag. Remove all of the set screws and lay them out on the table.

Put locktite in all of the collars where the set screw goes in, this is a very important step! Without the locktite the set screws are bound to vibrate loose!

Put the set screws into the collars but do not tighten all the way.

Slide the collar onto he axle, but do not tighten it yet. Put the wheel pant where it is supposed to be in order to determine the distance between the collar and the axle.

Once you have determined the proper distance for the collar to be, tighten the collar. Now slide the wheel and the other collar  on and tighten. Repeat the same steps for the other side.

Out of the box the blind nuts are pre-installed into the wheel pants for you. Orel however does not like to put the wheel pants on until later to avoid them getting scratched. So for now, put your bolts in the wheel pants and keep them in a safe place until the end.

Now flip the airplane fuselage over and remove the gear cover. Put Locktite in each of the blind nut holes.

Now slide the landing gear bolts through the landing gear.

Bolt everything in place and make sure that that everything fits together nicely. At this point you can also remove the tape holding the hatch in the back as shown in the picture below.

Lay the hatch out upside down on a table, and with a sharp knife cut away the covering from the slots.

Gather the four screws that will be used to hold the hatch in place.

Put Locktite on the bolts and screw them in place.

At this point we can glue the landing gear cover in place. We recommend using Epoxy for this step, though you may choose to use Epoxy or CA. NOTE: Orel uses CA, so the choice is up to the builder.

Put your choice of glue on the bottom side of the landing gear cover plate.

Now glue it in place.

Move your gear cuffs to the desired location and put a few strips of masking tape on the bottom of the gear cuff.

Now slide the gear cuff and apply epoxy to the area where the gear cuff will meet the landing gear.

Slide the gear cuff back into place and remove the masking tape. Once the tape is removed, clean up any excess Epoxy. Repeat these steps for the other side.

Step 5: Hinge & Install the Rudder

NOTE: The kit comes with four hinges but only three slots in the rudder for hinges. While Orel and other pilots have only used three hinges and it has worked out well for them, it is recommended to cut an extra slot on the top or bottom of the rudder for an extra hinge.

Test fit the rudder and hinges to the tail of the fuse and make sure everything fits and spaces out in your desired locations.

Now use masking tape and mask the area around the hinges on the rudder side.

To put the glue on the hinges, i recommend using at least a 20minute Epoxy give you time to work and clean the airplane from any epoxy marks that may happen. Put some Epoxy on the hinge as well as the slot in the rudder. Repeat this step for all of your hinges.

Use a paper towel wet with Acetone and clean around the hinge knuckles that may have excess Epoxy on them. Then remove the masking tape and clean the areas again. Re-apply new masking tape in the same manner as before while the glue is still wet.

Now mask the vertical stabilizer in the same way that we masked the rudder.

Allow the hinges in the rudder to dry for at least one hour and then you can put epoxy on the other side of the hinge that mount into the vertical stabilizer. Also add epoxy in the slots of the vertical stabilizer.

Now slide in the rudder into place and remove the masking tape. Clean the area once again with your paper towl and Acetone. Then tape the rudder and vertical stabilizer together in the same manner as shown in the picture below.

Step 6: Install the Tail Gear

Locate your tail wheel assembly, spring, wood screw, and the three bolts all supplied with the kit. Out of the box, the tail wheel is pre-installed on the tail wheel assembly to help you get your plane flying just a little bit faster!

Now poke out the holes on the bottom of the plane where the blind nuts for the tail wheel have already been pre-installed for you.

Slide the bolts into the tail wheel assembly and put locktit on the threads of all the bolts.

Bolt the tail wheel assembly in place.

Put the end of the spring hole into the hole on the tail wheel assembly.

Stretch the spring until you feel a little bit of tension.

Drill a small starter hole where the end of the spring would be.

With the wood screw supplied in the kit, screw the spring into place using the starter hole we drilled in the rudder.

Step 7: Mounting the Motor

Using your motor template line them up with the lines on the firewall and drill through.

Then locate your throttle push rod (Should be taped to your wing tube), ball link and the other motor installation parts that are supplied with your kit. Orel took the carburetor arm off the engine to make this next step a little easier. We suggest you do this as well.

Now, using locktite, secure the ball link screw into the throttle arm.

Connect the throttle arm back to the engine and screw in the push rod.

Drill out any other holes you may need to make your motor fit, and install your motor onto the plane.

NOTE: USE RED LOCKTITE! Depending on what engine you use, if you use a standard 50cc engine with the stock stand offs the spinner gap will be to far away, so you will need shorter stand offs. This also means that with the shorter stand offs you might have to cut out an opening in the firewall for your engines carburetor to fit.

Next we will cut the cowl to fit your engine.

NOTE: This step will not be needed for some engines, however making some minor cuts to help increase air flow is always a good habbit to get into.

Slide your cowl over the engine and begin cutting away until all of your engine can fit through the cowl without rubbing on any part.

Locate the screw and washer set for your cowl.

Put masking tape over where the blind nut are located on the fuselage and mark the whole with a sharpie. Repeat these steps on both sides.

Slide on the cowl and tighten the two bolts on the inside to keep the cowl on.

Then slide the tape that we marked before over the cowl. Drill where the mark is with a 2.5mm drill bit and put the screws in. Repeat these steps on both sides.

NOTE: Orel only drills out the bottom hole and not both the top and bottom. This is done for convenience and a cleaner look but using both is recommended. 

At this point, you now have something that almost looks like an airplane!

Step 8: Installing the Servos

Start by cutting the covering in an x shape where the servos will be located on the wing. Break off the little piece of wood with the string going though it.

Tie the servo extension for your aileron servo to this white string.

Pull the servo extension through. By the white string on the other side.

Now install your servo to the control horn. Remember to use locktite! Repeat these steps for both wings.

Now cut the servo hole for the rudder and elevators. The rudder servo location is directly under the elevators and the elevator servo locations are directly in front of the elevators on either side of the fuselage. On the right side of the fuselage inside the tail, there is the piece of string used to run the servo extensions to the fuselage.

Tie all of your servo extensions together and run your wires though the fuselage using the piece of string inside the fuselage (Picture shown below)

Now you can install all of your tail servos. Locate all four of the 2.5mm bolts used to hold on the elevators. Connect your rudder servo arm to the push rod. Remember to use locktite!

Put the screws into the elevator tabs on the bottom and put locktite on the screws!

Now install the elevators and elevator push rods on both sides. Remember to loctite all threaded screws!

Now we can install the throttle servo. For a 50cc setup, like Orel is using in this build, the best place to put the throttle servo can be seen in the image below.

NOTE: Placement of your throttle servo may vary slightly depending on motor weight and size.

Locate this piece inside the the motor screw accessory bag. The throttle push rod will slide into this.

Connect your throttle servo to you motor.

Step 9: Install the Fuel Tank

The fuel tank pre-plumbed out of the box so this saves time here. All you need to do is take out the extra o-rings that are in the bottle, make sure the bottle is closed tightly with the o-ring in place, add a little velcro to the bottom of the tank, and strap the tank in place! Make sure to run a vent line outside the plane, and to run the motor line into the carburetor.

Inside the fuselage you can locate this little hole, this is for your fuel dot.

Cut away the covering and screw in the fuel dot that is supplied in the kit.

Make sure to tighten the nut on the inside of the fuselage for the fuel dot.

Run the line from your tank into the fuel dot.

Step 10: Finishing Touches

For the aileron servo extension to make its way into the fuselage, cut a little slit right behind the whole for the wing tube screw. By cutting a slit, this makes the plane look a little nicer without having extra holes.

Now you can go ahead and install your wheel pants.

Also at this point you can install the Side Force Generators (SFGs). You can choose to fly with or with out SFGs, but Orel prefers to fly with them.

There are blind nuts pre-installed in the wing for the use of SFG’S.

These are the screws used for the SFG’s.

You are now complete with your Aerobeez 78″ Radien Extra 330sc!

Orel’s PRO TIPS:

CG: Using a 50cc engine with the rudder servo in the rear and a Gens Ace 3500mAh 2s RX pack strapped onto the wing tube i got the CG to balance a little bit behind the wing tube. On the tip of the wing the CG is right in front of the aileron counter balance. I know that this seems a bit tail heavy but i find that this air frame fly’s best with the CG a little bit behind the wing tube.

Throws: For 3D throws Orel recommends starting off on the elevators and rudder at around 55degrees, and the ailerons at around 30degrees. Orel generally starts off with around 60% expo on the radio. Work your way from these measurements at roughly 5degree increments.

For low rates Orel recommends setting everything at around 20degrees with around 50% expo and work your way from there at roughly 3degree increments.

Orel’s Final Thoughts: “I personally believe that Aerobeez hit the nail on the head with this airplane! They practically built most of the plane for you right out of the box! I have flown many airplanes, and I have to say that this plane is my favorite all around plane. It fly’s true, tumbles great, fly’s precise, and rolls fast! But when you turn down the rates a bit, it fly’s like a big trainer! Really happy about how this plane came out!Looking forward to flying it some more!” – Orel Elbaz

Happy Flying All!

If you have any questions, please ask!

Like us on Facebook, follow us on Instagram and Twitter and subscribe on YouTube!

Also be sure to sign up to the Aerobeez Newsletter for updates and news each week.

Thank you as always for reading our build blog and for your patronage and support.

Team Aerobeez