#a loaf of bread for me is reasonably priced if it's like 1 euro

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actually bread here is like 1.5 - 5eur per kg but loaves are like 500g on average ig

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Paris

This past weekend we traveled with our program to Paris for 3 days. We took a EuroStar train under the channel early Friday morning and got to Paris around 1 pm. I always get confused with the one hour time difference between the UK and Europe but at least it’s a lot easier then figuring out the 5 hour time difference between London and the US. Going in and out of Britain is a lot more time consuming than I thought it would be because of border control, customs, and security. I thought that traveling between the UK and Europe would be really easy but the UK is a lot more strict about immigration and who comes in and out of the country. Everyone says that it’s because of Brexit but that isn’t even official yet and I’m pretty sure the UK has always been like this and it’s not some new policy change. Either way, the lines to get on a train, plane, or bus to leave or enter the country are always very long and frustrating. 

When we got to Paris, our metro transportation was already taken care of in the original price of the trip which was really nice because we just got unlimited passes for the weekend. The metro isn’t as nice or clean or quiet as the tube but it was definitely efficient and ran much quicker than the tube. We checked into our hotel, which was actually really nice, but of course there was some sort of confusion and me and Maeg’s room was the only room not ready. We just left our bags in Sammie’s room and went on the guided walking tour with our tour guide David (the same one we had for Stonehenge/Bath). It was one of the most pointless tours I have ever taken. He stopped at the Arc de Triomphe for about 2 minutes and wouldn’t let us go up it. Instead he kept walking and decided to focus on some of the shops in that area including Abercrombie and Fitch- because obviously that is really important to see when you’re in Paris. We did stop at this cute little cafe for lunch and I essentially got a warmed up loaf of bread stuffed with olives and cheese for 3 euro. I still have dreams about that bread.

It was so rainy and miserably cold that we were already in bad moods but the fact that he did not want to stop at any of the “major tourist attractions” because “anyone can do that in France” was so unbelievably annoying. I spent $360 so that I could see the main attractions in France, not American stores that you can see anywhere in any mall in the US. We slowly (and I mean really slowly because this tour guide walked at the pace of a snail) made our way to the Seine where we were getting on a boat to see Paris from the water. I remember doing this when I went to Paris a few summers ago and all I can say is that it is much more enjoyable in nice weather than in cold, wet weather. We were so cold by the end of it that once we got off, we ran into the nearest restaurant we could find just to warm up. The restaurant we chose ended being a little French place in the Latin Quarter that had a “tourist menu” where you could get an appetizer, entree, and dessert for 10 euro. Of course we all opted for that and also ordered a bunch of wine for the table. That dinner was as fun as the tour had been miserable. I’m pretty sure everyone there thought of us as obnoxious Americans but none of us really cared because we were laughing too much and having a good time. It was me, Maegan, Sammie, Rupali, Constance, Charlie, and Ben that mainly hung out together on this trip.

After dinner, everyone wanted to go out but I was so tired that I ended up taking a nap and by the time I woke up I had no desire to drink anymore. We met up with our friend Allie who is studying abroad in Paris and she took us to some really cool bars (one of them, they lit the bar on fire for half of their drinks) but they were so expensive that I didn’t end up buying anything. A double vodka soda was 15 euros and I tried Sammie’s but it was so strong that it burned the back of my throat so that was really unappealing. We still had a lot of fun though and of course got ham and cheese crepes on the way home. In the morning, we had to wake up early for another fabulous walking tour. Thankfully it only went until 2pm and then the rest of the day way ours. He took us through a bunch of back streets to see a little bit of Paris but again, he didn’t even take us to cool places. At one point we ended up at a very generic shopping plaza where he stopped to tell us that it’s where all the teenagers come to hang out. Like cool dude no one cares?? Unfortunately it was still really rainy and cold too so all of us were ready to get away from our awful tour guide.

The rest of the day ended up being really fun though. We walked a total of 12 miles and went everywhere from Notre Dame to the Louvre to the Arc de Triomphe to the top of the Eiffel Tower. We ate Croque Madames and Nutella crepes and macroons (basically all carbs) and did our best to stay warm and dry. I brought the wrong student ID so instead of getting into the Louvre for free it ended up costing me 15 euro. It was kind of a waste of money because I had been there before and my friends really only wanted to go see Mona Lisa (aka the most underwhelming painting of all time), but it is one of the most famous museums in the world and who knows when I’ll be back so I felt obligated to go. Paying money to go to the top of the Eiffel Tower was absolutely worth the money though. We waited in very long lines and it took a while to get to the top but once we did it was totally worth it. By the time we got to the top it was completely dark out, but all of Paris was lit up and beautiful. I made sure to stand in the middle of the elevator on the way up and had my friends stand in a circle around me because I was shaking so much from my fear of heights. I could literally feel my stomach in my throat. Ben was just as nervous as me though so we just talked to each other as a distraction and tried our best not to look down or up, just out. 

When we finally got to the top, however, it was really breathtaking. You could see all the streets and houses and buildings for miles. At one point I caught myself asking “I wonder if you can see the Eiffel Tower from here”, which Charlie immediately made fun of me for. I tried to FaceTime as many people as possible while I was up there including my dad and brother but the connection was pretty bad so the conversations didn’t last long. I just wanted to share the view with the people back home. We stayed up there for a while taking in the beauty of everything, but at some point we started getting hungry and cold and realized we needed to eat. We stopped at a cute French restaurant not far from the Eiffel Tower where I got a truffle risotto that was literally to die for. It melted in my mouth and I’m pretty sure I finished it in about 5 bites. Since the Eiffel Tower sparkles for 5 minutes at the top of every hour starting at 6pm, we decided to finish dinner early and go watch the light show. We grabbed some crepes to enjoy during it and then just sat staring at this beautiful, beautiful monument sparkle in the night. It really was mesmerizing and as Ben and I found out, if you stared at it hard enough, the Eiffel Tower itself faded away from view and all you could see were the lights in the shape of the Eiffel Tower. Those lights alone explain why Paris is called the City of Love.

After walking over 20,000 steps, we all decided that it would probably be best not to go out that night and just get some sleep for the next day. Maeg and I watched some BBC news (the only channel that wasn’t in French) and passed out. We had to wake up pretty early because we had bought tickets to get a tour of Versailles. Our tour guide told us to meet in the lobby at 9am but of course he didn’t show up until 9:30 and we didn’t leave the hotel until closer to 10. I’m not kidding when I say that this guy was the most inefficient, aloof tour guide I had ever met. When he finally got to Versailles, he informed us that the government in fact had made entry into the palace free for that particularly day so our official group tour had been canceled and we would be refunded. (We later learned from our friend Allie that Versailles is free every Sunday so there was no reason for us to pay for it in the first place). We then had to wait in an hour long line just to get into the palace.

Waiting in line wasn’t actually too bad because the weather had warmed up a little and the 7 of us were trying to come up with fun conversation topics. We talked about everything we could think of, most notably different conspiracy theories that we knew about. We finally got into the palace and made our way through the luxurious rooms. The best parts, however, were the gardens. It was acres and acres of beautiful ponds and trees and artistically trimmed bushes. We probably strolled around for an hour and a half just enjoying the beautiful scenery and the nicest weather that we had experienced in 3 days. We then slowly made our way back to our hotel (it was over an hour away from Versailles) and got ready to take the train back to London. Our tour guide said to meet in the lobby at 6pm (which we were all on time for) but of course he didn’t show up until 6:45pm. Which made us super later to the train; you’re supposed to check in a minimum of an hour before departure and we got there 10 minutes before that deadline. Once we checked in, we had to wait in a 45 minute long border control/passport check line. It was taking so long that we were actually nervous about missing our train. Luckily because the line was so bad they opened up a few more windows and things started to move much quicker. 

Once we got to the other side, our tour guide was no where to be found and we had to find out where we were supposed to be by ourselves. Right before we boarded the train, our tour guide showed up. He is literally the worst, I hope I never have to see him again. The train was then delayed 30 minutes because the checkin line had been so long so we got back to London even later then expected and then we had to take a 25 minute tube right back to our apartment. Traveling this much two weekends in a row was absolutely exhausting and while both weekends were so fun, I am really happy to be home for 2 weekends. All of us agreed that we were very homesick- not for our American homes, but for London. We are all so in love with London and it felt really good to be back. 

[clamjumper5-blog]

A Healthy Hedonist’s Guide to Paris: Gluten-Free Eats + Sights in the City of Love

Paris has been a gluten-free beacon of love and carbs for us over the last two years.

I’m usually not that into Hallmark holidays, but last year, for whatever reason, when Charlie told me he’d be traveling on Valentine’s Day, I got a little diva-like pit in my stomach.

I pictured myself sitting alone watching Sandra Bullock reruns with a 3-course meal of matcha truffles, modestly-priced steak, and salted caramel pudding. Then I immediately moved on to a superior alternative that made me a lot less sad: having dinner with my OG Valentine, my dad.

I don’t know why I cared so much about doing something special last year, when on most other Valentine’s Days my preference is to avoid prefix menus like the plague and do nothing at all. But I’m sure it had something to do with all the book-related work that left me craving an evening of being coddled and pampered. Other sugar daddy to the rescue!

The biggest reason I can’t give Charlie a hard time is because for my birthday this year, he already showered me with the most romantic gift a girl could ask for: a long weekend trip to Paris. Had he pulled that super Romeo move on me on February 14th, I probably would have rolled my eyes and barfed a little in my mouth (diva!). But in November it was the perfect gift. And come December, when we finally woke up on the tarmac of Charles de Gaulle airport, it was the beginning of the most make-out and food-filled trip I’ve taken in adult life.

(see?)

Paris is the city of love, yes. But for me it’s always held memories of a different type of romance. Back when I was three years old, my OG Valentine (along with my mom) moved our small nuclear family across the Atlantic for a few years. We lived a stone’s throw from Les Invalides on the Right Bank, which I used to call the Emerald City because of its gold dome and sprawling Oz-like greenery.

So my favorite moments of our trip were not the pounds of steak frites or kisses shared under the Eiffel Tower, it was getting to share all those childhood fragments with Charlie as we covered the city on foot from end to end, having him humor me as we played the game my mother and I always used to play of guessing what color the seats would be at the following metro stop, and humoring me even further when I wanted to take us another mile out of the way to relive what a chocolate eclair tasted like in gluten-free form.

Speaking of being gluten-free in Paris, it’s a lot easier than it used to be. I’ve included some of the recommendations below, but just know that like in the States, not every loaf of GF bread is created equal. Take a detour to Chambelland early in your trip and buy a loaf and carry it in your purse for the rest of your stay. I tried the ones at Eric Kayser, No Glu and Helmet Newcake and they weren’t as good. This is key, because you’re going to need something to soak up all that restaurant butter.

If that’s recommendation 1.a. for the GF folks. 1.b. for the rest of you is to balance your trip with a mix of old and new. You’ll see in the itinerary I laid out below that I didn’t give you a back-to-back bistro highlight reel. There’s some incredibly inventive cuisine happening in Paris right now that is worth taking a break from cassoulet and soupe l’oignon for. Plus, if you eat on the healthier end at home, you will burn out from this particular French brand of hedonism very quickly. Pace yourself, folks.

My last recommendation is to walk as much as you can. It’s truly the best way to see the city. We managed to log 10 miles a day! Pack your shoes accordingly, and bring a second pair, since you will inevitably get blistered from your first. We loved the little AirBNB we stayed in on the 5th floor of a immeuble in the 9th, even if it meant many more blisters walking up all those stairs!

This time around, it was definitely a sobering experience for us bourgeois lovers of Parisian oat milk to experience the Gilet Jaunes lighting the city on fire literally and figuratively with their anger. You can see some of the scenes below, juxtaposed of course with my favorite 3 euro macarons. Needless to say, I couldn’t feel more grateful for the life I was born into that allows me to see the world, and savor every morsel.

Just being able to reminisce about this trip feels like a gift. And let me just say for all my Galentine’s: you don’t need a date to have the most glorious time in Paris. My last two trips 7 years ago and in college were both solo, and I had an equally magical weekend reading, wandering and day drinking in cafes.

Read on for my favorite gluten-free finds and ways to spend a long weekend in the city of luuuuurve.

From one healthy, Francophile hedonist, to another,

Xoxo Phoebe

THE BEST PARIS FOOD DESTINATIONS (& WHAT TO EAT IF YOU’RE GLUTEN-FREE)

Afternoon

*Breizh Cafe, The Marais.

This was our first food stop in Paris, after fighting our jetlag to make it through two floors of the Pompidou Center on an empty stomach. Needless to say, I was extremely hangry by the time we arrived at this little gem in the Marais, and almost had a meltdown when we were told there was no table available. Luckily, the maître d’ took pity on us silly Americans and found us two seats next door at the small to-go shop. We actually got the better experience, I think. As we waited for our gluten-free buckwheat crepes to arrive, we sipped a carafe of their in-house hard cider and drooled over all the delicate tins of sardines, cases of smoked meats, rich butters and countless products made from the restaurant’s signature buckwheat. Just make sure to read the back of the packages, as many of the pastas and crisps also include wheat flour. As for my order, I went with the special, which included cured duck, mushrooms and comte. But you can’t go wrong with the complet.

L’As du Falafel, The Marais.

Back when I could eat gluten, this was a very necessary stop when visiting the old Jewish quarter of the Marais. The streets are worth visiting anyway, as the trendy boutiques suddenly tapper off into a jam-packed block of Judaica. The falafel is the best in the city, but they also have schwarma for the GF folk.

Miznon, The Marais

Down the street from all the falafel shops in the Jewish corner, is this Israeli outpost with creative spins on classic sandwiches. The lamb pita is excellent, but they will also do any of their sandwiches as a plate for the GF folk. I got the beef bourgingnon, which is not something I would think to try at an Israeli restaurant, but their take on it was incredibly light and flavorful, especially with a dousing of green sauce on top. The highlight for healthy-minded folks is the whole charred cauliflower, which emerges still attached to its leaves and roots. New Yorkers: you can also find a stand in Chelsea Market, but it’s not the same as the original.

Chambelland, 10th.

This gluten-free bakery was the only place I found that did French bread the right way. It had the same crispy exterior and tangy sourdough flavor that characterizes the best of the table baskets. Get a loaf to-go, or simply enjoy a tuna sandwich or square of focaccia (tomato-olive is amazing) as a mid-afternoon snack. Also, get a bag of the mini financiers.

Helmut Newcake, 1st.

In addition to being the best-named patisserie in all the land, Helmut Newcake has the type of highfalutin pastries that make you think you’re staring at a jewelry case—and they’re all gluten-free! It was such a treat to get to have a chocolate eclair after all these years. The chocolate chip cookie is also insanely buttery and decadent.

Claus, 1st.

Breakfast isn’t as much of a “thing” in France as it is in the states. Usually, people just grab a croissant and cafe on the go. One morning when we were craving eggs, we ended up at this cute spot near our hotel. Honestly, the breakfast was pretty underwhelming. But it’s worth a visit for the gluten-free green tea financiers, which were the most delicious treat of the trip. Had we done it over, I would have saved my breakfast for when we visited Canal St. Martin (see below).

Holybelly, Canal St. Martin.

We didn’t manage to squeeze in some eggs or black rice porridge from Holybelly, but walked around the cool and quaint surrounding area of Canal St. Martin, where there are a bunch of up-and-coming juice bars (Bob’s) and gluten-free cafes (Ten Belles) popping up. This is definitely the neighborhood to go to if you want a break from butter. And I loved capturing the heart-shaped lock picture above.

Hotel L’Amour, 10th.

This hotel restaurant has a quaint fashionable interior with a beautiful garden to sit outside in warmer months. It’s an excellent spot for brunch, with a whole array of vegetarian options. The vegan butternut squash soup was delicious, as was the poulet roti and plate of scrambled eggs.

Ellsworth, 1st.

This brunch spot has all the usual Southern fixtures—French toast, fried chicken, duck hash—but they’re prepared in a distinctly French way. The hash was a gluten-free favorite of mine, and I also loved the beet salad with homemade light-as-air Greek yogurt.

Au Petit Tonneau, 7th.

We wandered into this little neighborhood gem during our day of exploring the right bank, as we made our way from Musee D’Orsay to go make-out under the Eiffel tower. It was everything we wanted in a bistrot: small tables, chalkboard menus, old ladies ordering whole bottles of wine at 2pm, and husband and wife waiters, who took breaks in between busing our tables to enjoy a bite of lunch with their family at the back table. The most notable dish here is the veal stew, which is served over cardamom scented rice. Unfortunately, it’s thickened with flour (hey-ho France), but I snuck a small taste of the sauce and it was mind-blowing. Equally good (and gluten-free): the escargot, salad Paysenne with thick lardons, and the sautéed scallops.

Le Comptoir de la Mer, 6th

The two small bars next to one another, one dedicated to seafood, the other to meats, are a fun concept based on basque-style pintxos, where you order small plate after small plate, standing up, before heading to the next joint and doing the same. I love that they serve butter in a giant ball on the counter that you can scrape off to your heart’s content.

Pierre Herme, 6th

Perhaps the most famous macaron purveyor in Paris, Pierre lives up to all the hype. The cookies are light and tender, while the filling isn’t too sweet. More importantly, they offer a variety of surprising and creative combinations. My favorite was the half raspberry, half pistachio, and the pomegranate and cream.

NoGlu, 6th

As I mentioned above, I was not overly blown away by the bread at this gluten-free cafe. Still, it’s a nice place to grab a sandwich, and if you’re craving a croque monsieur, theirs certainly hits the spot. I’ve also heard good things about their quiche and madeleine’s, but generally prefer chambelland and helmet newcake for GF goodies.

Evening

Le Grand Bain, 9th

The menu changes daily at this veg-centric small plates joint. The chef is young and inventive, but also can turn out French classics like moules with aioli that rival the best bistros in town. They were willing to adapt almost the whole menu to be gluten-free and also had plenty of vegan options. Besides the moules, my favorite dish was the broccoletti with caviar. Charlie could not resist the fois gras stuffed quail.

Balagan, 1st

We went for lunch at this upscale Israeli restaurant near The Louvre, but it’s chic design and cool lounge in back would make it even better as a nighttime destination. The kale salad with turmeric aioli and Mediterranean take on steak frites (both GF!) were fabulous. The waitstaff was also very knowledgable about my allergy.

Le Villaret, 10th

Right down the street from Chambelland, is this classic bistrot that serves up impeccably cooked steak and other French fare. It’s been renovated to be slightly more modern on the interior, but still feels homey and cozy. It’s a great option for a casual, yet refined meal that’s unfussy and worth the price tag.

Bistrot Paul Bert, 11th.

Though a bigger operation than Tonneau, it doesn’t get more classic than this French institution. It’s a little off the beaten path, but worth a visit for a traditional meal of all the things you came to France for: sole meuniere, steak frites and soufflés. Gluten-free folk are good to go on the steak and fries and simple butter-soaked scallops in their shell, but sadly have to sit out dessert. My favorite part of our meal is that they decanted our wine into a giant wine glass, which made for some wonderful photo opps. I’m pretty sure they stuck us in the front room with all the other English speakers for this very reason.

Le Clown Bar, 10th.

This was both Charlie and my favorite meal in Paris. I was skeptical at first, as I’m not one to opt for trends or novelty over the classics (in Paris, no less). But this meal was truly the most inventive and delicious one I’ve had in any city in recent memory. Much to my surprise, the highlight of the night—in addition to the whole pigeon that arrived talons-on, and still smoking on a plate—was the bowl of brains. As you can see above, they did very little to distract or disguise the main ingredient, which I suppose is what good French cooking is all about. The texture was similar to tofu, and combined with a delicate dashi broth, each spoonful melted in your mouth. It’s best to get a reservation in advance, but there’s a great little hipster cocktail bar around the corner called Bespoke if you have to wait.

Le Relais de Entrecote, 6th

An institution with locations in New York and London, this steak and frites chain never disappoints. And somehow, there’s nothing like the real thing in Paris. It’s also a perfect venue for celiacs, since the famous secret sauce is gluten-free and there’s nothing else on the menu but salad, steak and fries, so the fryer is also fair game. Save room for dessert, as their sundaes are legendary!

Le Servan, 12th.

I loved the neighborhood vibe of this place, which made me feel like we were back in Brooklyn. The food was simple, elegant and if I’m being honest, slightly underwhelming. We ended up here because of this Eater list, which said that the clams were one of the best dishes in Paris. Unfortunately, said clams had soy sauce in them (wah wah). Add it to your list if you want to check out a new neighborhood that’s more residential and bohemian. The one dish that really stood out and was worth returning for was the scallop with butterscotch. The menu changes daily, though, so perhaps we just ordered wrong.

Cocktail Hour

Le Mary Celeste, The Marais

If you’re looking for a great spot to grab oysters or deviled eggs before or after dinner, this divey spot in the Marais is it. Compared to most cocktail bars in Paris, this one is a nice mix of tourists and locals.

Le Syndicat, 9th

Another small cocktail bar with creative drinks, including one with kombucha and cucumber that I enjoyed.

The Hemingway Bar, 1st

If you like 30 euro cocktails in a lavish setting, nothing gets more classic than this hideaway in the back of The Ritz. Go early and put your name down. Be prepared to take out a second mortgage to cover your martini.

Le Meurice, 1st

Slightly easier to get into than Hemingway, and equally expensive drinks in ornate surroundings. Charlie swears by a lunch time burger here as well.

ITINERARY: AN IDEAL LONG WEEKEND IN PARIS

If you have an extra day, the Louvre is an obvious must. It’s so ginormous though that we chose to cross many of the smaller museums off our list and spend more time walking between neighborhoods. Another favorite that we didn’t fit into this itinerary is Sacre Coeur, which has an unparalleled view of the city at sunset and is a fun neighborhood to grab a pre-dinner glass of wine. Definitely go if you have one more night. Also, it should be noted that we went to Paris in December. If it’s warm out, a meat and cheese picnic in the Tuileries or Jardin du Luxembourg is also a must. But the gardens around the Louis Vuitton Foundation are also beautiful for a picnic or romp.

Friday, the Marais + Left Bank >>Start the day at the Pompidou center and explore the contemporary and modern collections >>Spend the afternoon exploring the Marais neighborhood; stop into Merci for home goods and decor, and wander the shops and boutiques. >>Have an early lunch of gluten-free buckwheat crepes at Breizh, along wtih a cup of one of their hard ciders (you’re in Europe, after all!). >> Pop into Musee National Picasso >> Grab a mid-afternoon snack at L’As du Fallafel or Miznon >> GF folks should make a detour to the 10th to grab a midafternoon snack at Chambelland, along with a loaf of gluten-free bread for the rest of the trip >>Head to dinner at Bistrot Paul Bert or Le Villaret for an authentic Parisian experience with all the typical fixings. You’ll be too buttered out by day 3 to handle this.

Saturday, the Right Bank >>Start the day at Musee D’Orsay to take in the vast impressionist collection and early work of Manet and Van Gogh. >>Wander through Napoleon’s old stomping grounds, Les Invalides (with optional detour to either the Musee De L’Armee or the Rodin Museum around the corner) >>Stop for lunch at Au Petit Tonneau for a classic red gingham tablecloth meal of escargot, salad Paysenne and veal stew. >>Continue walking off your meal to the Eiffel Tower for your requisite photo opp. >> Either pop in for more contemporary art at Palais de Tokyo, or metro back to the St. Germain-des-Pres area and enjoy a cafe at a one of the old literary haunts – Les Deux Maggot or Cafe de Flore (touristy, but fun!).

>> Check out Musee de L’Arme for French firearms and battle garb or to say hey to Napoleon in his tomb >> You can also make a pit stop at Bon Marche for some foodie keepsakes >> Take a break from all the butter with some nouveau French cuisine at Le Clown Bar or Le Grand Bain. Get past the ick factor and order the brains—it’s a must. >>Have a nightcap at the Hemingway bar at the Ritz.

Sunday, Further Afield >>Start the day with a Franco-American brunch at Hotel L’Amour or Ellsworth (make a reservation in advance), or if you’re feeling overwhelmed by 48 hours of French food, a healthy bite at Holybelly, where you can also stroll by the water in Canal St. Martin. >>Venture further afield to check out the new Louis Vuitton foundation near jardin d’acclimatation, i.e. the coolest kid’s park that ever was. You can also swap this for a day at the Louvre. >>Enjoy a mid-day cafe and pastry at Helmut Newcakes, which has the best GF eclairs in Paris! >> Head home to wherever you came from, carrying all the shoes and baguettes you can fit in your carry-on.

READER RECS

I got a lot of recommendations from readers on gluten-free and healthy restaurants in Paris. Especially in the Marais and the 9th, there are a ton of Brooklyn-esque smoothie and avocado toast spots cropping up. I didn’t find many of them to be worth it, including Wild & The Moon, which is now a chain. Their GF scone and acai bowl were sub-par, if I’m being honest. The produce in France is better across the board, and I’d personally, much rather enjoy veggies in the context of butter, cooked simply and traditionally, doing what Paris does best, than another culture’s attempt at avocado toast. That said, I’m including the full list below in case you want to try any of them, along with some more restaurants that I’ve been dying to try but haven’t been able to get to!

Gluten-free restaurants and healthy cafes:

Sitron (GF bakery) Echo Deli Cafe Woodies Le Coulauncourt Maisie Cafe The Broken Arm Republique of Coffee Cuppa Cafe BigLove (GF pizza) Cafe Berry Cafe Mareva Cafe Mericourt (shakshouka) Jay and Joy (vegan cheeses!)

Nouveau French restaurants and wine bars: 

Vivant CAM Brutos Frenchie Clamato

***

Have any of you recently been to Paris? Any new or old haunts or must-see’s that I should add to my list for next time? I’m dying to go back! Let me know in the comments section

Source: https://feedmephoebe.com/healthy-hedonists-guide-paris-gluten-free-long-weekend-city-love/

[fadingfartconnoisseur]

Cost of Living in Spain: A Guide For Digital Nomads

Growing up in Germany, a life in Spain seemed far away in many ways, but was extremely intriguing. From the mild Mediterranean climate and the significant cultural differences, to the cost of living in Spain – the idea of moving my place of residence to the south of Europe has always fascinated me.

In 2016 I decided to take the plunge and officially moved to Alicante, Spain in order to live the Spanish dream for 12 whole months. In this article I will fill you in on everything I learned about the cost of living in Spain, plus useful tips if you are considering to stay in the country for a while.

Visa Regulations For Living in Spain

The first thing you need to do when planning to set up a life in a foreign country (no matter the country) is figure out whether or not you are actually allowed to stay in the country, for how long, and on what visa.

For those of us who have a European residency, moving to Spain is a fairly uncomplicated process and only requires a change of registration regarding your place of residency. For those living outside of Europe it is a different story depending on nationality. See the two paragraphs below.

After handing in a complete application folder at the local police station, you will soon receive your Certificate of Residence (NIE), which is not only a legal formality but also very useful step to help with the varied costs of living in Spain. I will explain in more detail why the NIE is important later on.

For non-European residents who intend to stay longer than 3 months, applying for official residency is more complex, but not impossible. In any case, it will be equally important if you wish to benefit from the low-cost of living in Spain compared to other countries in the EU.

Finding Accommodation in Spain

You can only rent a place in Spain if you can prove that you are registered as a resident for the time of your contract, which is exactly why the NIE is important. There are some loopholes around this but I won’t recommend them in this post.

As for securing good accommodation, timing is very important. Finding a good apartment for a fair price will be almost impossible at the beginning of the summer (May – July), at least in any major city or popular coastal areas. I can recommend to wait for the main wave of tourists to leave in September before starting to hunt down real estate offers.

Hunting is unfortunately the right expression, as taken from experience when I look back at my own apartment search. Although websites like Fotocasa are quite useful for finding offers, the real work begins when contacting the owner or retailer in order to make a viewing appointment. In Spain, it is best to be persistent and call directly instead of writing E-mails.

In Spain, the spoken word counts more than the written message.

Depending on your personal living standards, you can find a room in a shared flat for no more than €150 ($177), a small 2-bedroom apartment for about €300 ($353), or a spacious and modern flat for €600-700 ($700-820) a month.

Considering that the last option would likely come with several bedrooms and at least two bathrooms, an outside area like a balcony and a pretty good location, the cost of living in Spain in terms of accommodation is very affordable.

In about half of the cases, shorter long-term rents (we are talking one year contracts) will come with furniture, which is very useful if you don’t have the budget to invest in the necessary basics like a bed, table, etc. Some apartments would even entail a completely equipped kitchen and other additional extras that the owner or person before you might have left behind.

Note: Prices may vary depending on where in Spain you are looking to rent. Popular international cities like Barcelona and Madrid might have higher prices, less populated areas are cheaper.

Read More: A Guide to Barcelona For First Timers

Grocery Costs in Spain

In Spain, it is common to have at least two, sometimes three types of places to shop for your groceries in your local neighbourhood.

1. The Corner Store

The first one, the little corner store will have a limited selection of items and is likely a bit more expensive, but most products will be local: fresh milk, eggs, regional vegetables and fruits.

This is what my bill for a quick stop at our local corner store would look like:

Whole milk (1 liter)  €1.20 ($1.41) Cheese (200 g)  €3.00 ($3.52) Meat (150 g)  €2.50 ($2.94) Local eggs (10)  €2.00 ($2.35) 3 tomatoes  €1.00 ($1.17) 3 regional oranges  €0.60 ($0.70) Loaf of white bread  €1.50 ($1.76) Bottle of red wine   €3.50 ($4.11) Single beer can  €1.20 ($1.41) 100 g chocolate bar   €1.50 ($1.76)

TOTAL    €18.00 ($21.13)

Note: Don’t forget that most small shops in Spain close between 2:00 – 5.30 pm for their siesta!

2. The Supermarket Grocery Store

Spain has a number of franchise supermarkets like Aldi, Lidl, Carrefour and some national brands like AlCampo or Más y Más. Shopping at either one of them won’t affect your general cost of living in Spain compared to other European countries.

Prices here are lower and the selection is bigger than in a general shop. Especially the white bread & cookies section, the fresh fish and meat section, and the wine section which is usually of disproportional size (like three aisles).

Food Description EURO PRICE RANGE Milk (1 liter) €0.95 ($1.11) 0.73-1.20 Loaf of fresh white bread (500g) €1.10 ($1.29) 0.80-1.30 White rice (1kg) €0.95 ($1.12) 0.70-1.80 Eggs (regular) (10) €1.10 ($1.81) 1.00-2.00 Local cheese (1kg) €7.17 ($8.42) 3.00-10.00 Chicken breasts (1kg) €6.50 ($7.63) 6.00-8.00 Beef round (1kg) €11.67 ($13.67) 5.00-20.00 Apples (1kg) €1.33 ($1.57) 0.80-2.00 Bananas (1kg) €1.35 ($1.59) 1.05-1.50 Oranges (1kg) €0.90 ($1.06) 0.65-1.20 Tomatoes (1kg) €1.10 ($1.29) 0.80-1.80 Potatoes (1kg) €1.10 ($1.29) 0.80-2.00 Onions (1kg) €0.86 ($1.01) 0.40-2.00 Lettuce (1 head) €1.06 ($1.25) 0.99-1.20

Also good to know:

Bottle of wine €2.50 ($2.94) Single beer can €0.60 ($0.60) Chocolate bar (100 g) €0.80 ($0.94) Coffee (250 g) €2.00 ($2.35)

Note: The bigger the selection, the wider the price range between high quality and lower price category. Especially when it comes to buying fresh fish, meats, fruits and vegetables. I can recommend watching out for regional and seasonal goods instead of imported products. It will pay off in price and quality!

3. The Local Farmers’ Market

Not every town will have a local farmers’ market, yet they are quite common and popular amongst locals no matter where in Spain you have decided to settle. For fresh foods, this is my first choice when buying vegetables, fish, olives and fruit, and especially when buying tomatoes, oranges, peaches and other products that are in season.

Fresh Fish at a Local Farmers’ Market.

Prices at the local market will be even cheaper than in the grocery store. Plus, you’re supporting regional agriculture AND the difference in taste is incredible. Shopping at a weekly farmers’ market is not only important to reducing your cost of living in Spain, it is also the best way to start life as a local by meeting neighbours and having a chat with your future go-to butcher.

Going Out in Spain

The best way to enjoy an affordable evening out in Spain is to head to a cozy little tapas bar. This is where you’ll find delicious patatas bravas (oven baked potatoes with spicy red sauce) and boquerones en vinagre (salty fish in vinegar) with a cool caña (small beer on tap).

In Spain, letting your cash balance decide whether or not you can afford to go out does not work quite as well as other parts of Europe. Why? Because more often than not, going out is as cheap as eating at home.

The drink around the corner (wine or beer) costs between €1 ($1.20) and €2 ($2.35) and will often be served with something to pick on, like simple finger foods, potato chips or salty nuts. If your hunger is not overwhelming, order one or two homemade tapas or a sandwich for €3-4 ($3.52-4.70) and you’re set for dinner.

Going out for drinks or tapas in Spain is very affordable.

Of course, this is not real going out. Should you plan a romantic date or evening with friends you can expect the following prices:

Meal, inexpensive restaurant €7.00 ($8.23) Meal for 2 people, mid-range restaurant €20.00 ($23.52) Domestic beer (0.5 liter draught) €1.50 ($1.76) Imported beer (0.33 liter bottle) €2.00 ($2.35) Cappuccino (regular) €1.20 ($1.41) Croissant €0.70 ($0.83) Bocadillo (toasted baguette with ham, cheese or tomato) €2.50 ($2.94) Water (0.5 liter bottle) €1.50 ($1.76)

Special Food Deals

Paella Lunch: If you are looking for something special, like a traditional Spanish paella for lunch, you are looking at about €15-20 ($17.64-23.52) per meal and person. However, paellas are usually served in massive portions and can be shared between more people (the price has to be paid for a minimum of 2 people).

Breakfast and lunch deals. These are amazing and also a reason for the low-cost of living in Spain. Breakfast Deal: Coffee + bocadillo or croissant + fresh orange juice = €2.50 ($2.97). Lunch Deal: One drink + starter + main + desert or coffee = €10.00 ($11.74)

Going to the Doctor in Spain

Nobody plans on having to go to the doctor, but if you decide to move your place of residency to Spain for a while, you might not get around it.

The public health care system in Spain is rated one of the best ones in the world and is indeed quite remarkable. You will benefit from free health care services if you are one of the following:

resident in Spain and work in employment or self-employment and pay social security contributions

resident in Spain and receiving certain state benefits

resident in Spain and recently divorced or separated from a partner registered with social security

a child resident in Spain

a pregnant woman who is resident in Spain

under 26 and studying in Spain

a state pensioner

staying temporarily in Spain and have an EHIC card (European Health Insurance Card)

Depending on the city district you are living in, you will be referred to a certain public health care centre, which will be your go to doctor until you relocate your apartment. Your house doctor here has to forward you to any specialist or hospital if needed, unless there is a serious emergency.

For any consultancy or treatment at a private clinic (which are also quite common, so make sure to ask), you will have to pay for yourself. It’s always a wise idea to have travel insurance. Check out World Nomads for a free quote.

Cost of Transportation in Spain

Most people in Spain own their own vehicle and it does not cost too much to buy a car. Some websites sell decent second-hand vehicles for €1,500 – 2,000 ($1,756 – 2,342).

The other option is to rent a car for a day or two whenever needed, which is also very affordable. Fuel prices are €1.17/liter. For a road trip of 100km (60 miles) in a relatively new rental car, that would be less than €10 ($12) for the trip in gas.

The public transport in some areas of Spain is not as advanced as in other European countries, but in comparison to Canada or the United States it is still amazing.

Between major cities like Barcelona, Madrid and Valencia, high-speed trains run several times a day and tickets will cost between €30 ($35) and €150 ($176), depending on distance of the journey.

Renfe is one of the main operators for long-distance train travels.

Busses are a good option for medium distance travel (for example offered by ALSA) and cheaper than trains, but also less comfortable.

If you decide to move to a major Spanish city, you can also count on local busses, trams and underground systems to get from A to B. Watch out for monthly or multiple ride tickets, they will save you money and time.

Barcelona: In Barcelona, you can either purchase a 10 Journey Ticket, which is cheaper than 10 single rides, or the Hola BCN Card for 2 (€14.50/ $17) to 5 (€33.70/ $39.60) days (and includes the airport!).

Madrid: The 30-Day Season Ticket is a contactless ticket valid for 30 days, can be recharged on machines in all stations. For those under 25, it’s especially economic to purchase a Young Person’s Season Ticket, which will have a single rate of €20 ($23.50) for all fare zones.

Internet Costs in Spain

Everyone wants a solid internet connection, and this is especially true for Digital Nomads. You will want a stable internet connection in your apartment and probably also a data plan for your phone. Should you already have a European sim card, you can keep using it at no additional roaming costs.

There are a number of good deals for your in-house connection, but not all of them include fast and reliable internet. Doing some research on which signal works best in your area can be key.

Companies like Ono, Movistar, Vodafone and Orange are amongst the most popular internet providers. Másmovil offers 50 MB Internet and unlimited calls from the house telephone for only €10 ($12) /month, with the option to add a cell phone line with 4 GB for €6.90 ($8.11). Orange has a similar deal for €15 ($17.64)/month.

For those of you who aren’t from Europe, make sure that your cell phone is unlocked if you’re looking to use a local SIM card.

What I liked about the Spanish providers is that most of them don’t require signing a long-term contract. That way you can pay per month and cancel anytime with short notice should you decide to change providers or leave the country.

Entertainment & Activities in Spain

My 3 favorite activities are always the free ones, and life in Spain comes with some nice options. With an abundance of free activities, you will save on your cost of living in Spain and still have a blast:

1. Beach It

On mild summer nights or in the heat of the day, is there a better place for relaxing and meeting friends than the beach? In those fortunate communities that are situated close to the coast, social life and activities are concentrated around the beach.

Go swimming, play volleyball with friends, or relax with a sun-downer while listening to someone playing guitar. Especially in the off season, the beach is my happy place and even more beautiful. Spanish families come together for Sunday picnics, locals practice dancing lessons and exercise together. The beach is the best place to enjoy a Spanish day.

2. Join Cultural Events and National Festivals

Everyday there is reason to celebrate in Spain!

One of the most spectacular celebrations I took part in was the Hogueras in the State of Valencia, during which, people party every night for 5 days and have countless processions in order to honour the beginning of Spring. It is celebrated from the 19th to the 24th of June and highlighted with the burning of giant statues by the end of the festivities.

Processions during Semana Santa.

Other important events are Semana Santa (Easter), the Tomatina Tomato Fight (fourth Wednesday in August), Carnival, and New Year’s Eve.

3. Go Hiking, Mountain Biking, or Wine Tasting

What most people don’t know is that Spain has way more to offer than just the beach. Off the coast, the Mediterranean hill country has some beautiful scenic hikes and trails for mountain biking. Especially in winter, exploring some nature walks in your new backyard can be the perfect weekend getaway.

Wine is one of the oldest and most important resources of Spanish agriculture and locals are proud of its quality for a reason. Tasting Spanish wines surrounded by olive groves and orange trees – what a way to spend a Saturday afternoon! A number of vineyards offer guided tours and tastings for €5-10 ($5.90 – 11.70) a person.

Summary on the Cost of Living in Spain

Amongst other European countries, Spain is certainly one of the cheaper ones when it comes to living costs. Here is a monthly budget amount calculated for 2 people based on my own experience:

1. Accommodation rent: €500 ($585) 2. Water and electricity (will be included in some living contracts!): €50 ($58) 3. Groceries: €200-300 ($234-351) 4. Going/eating out: €100-150 ($117-175) (with going out at least 2 times a week) 5. Health insurance: free if you apply for Spanish residency or have a European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) 6. Transport: €10-40 ($12-47) in fuel or public transport (depending on your mobility level) 7. Internet: €50 ($58) a month 8. Entertainment: mainly free

TOTAL Monthly Cost of living in Spain for 2 people: €1050 ($1,235)

Not only is the cost of living in Spain very attractive, it is a country full of passion. It’s rich in culture and history, and full of incredibly friendly people. My time in Spain has made me love this country so much that it feels like a second home.

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