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[fleurcareil]

East Quebec: Côte Nord

Due to the 24-hour boat delay from Blanc-Sablon, I end up doing a beautiful hike along the Pioneer Footpath, a coastal trail between the villages, by walking around 4k from L'Anse au Clair towards Forteau and then back again (one-way between the villages is 15k which is too much for me). The sun ☀️ was finally shining so the cliffs, sea and icebergs 😍 looked even more magnificent! The iceberg that I had taken a picture of the day before (see previous post) had been shattered though into pieces, presumably because of the higher solar radiance. It shows how quickly nature can change!

In the afternoon, I dropped off my car at the ferry terminal so that I didn't need to be there at 3am to get the car loaded into the container, and instead could show up at 6.30 - a much more reasonable time! 🙃 I got a lift back to the hotel from two Welsh friends who recommended a cute café for dinner, so ended up having great conversations with them over tomato soup & a glass of wine 😃.

Next morning, we can finally walk onto the Bella, the Relais Nordik cargo ship that also functions as a cruise for tourists who want to see the villages that it stops at. I can't see my own car, but presume it's stacked somewhere in the containers! 🤞 There was as usual fog to start with, so we were treated on a slide presentation on the underwater life of the Fleuve Saint Laurent (we have here the 2nd largest shark in the world - the basking shark which only eats plankton), until a pod of 10 humpback whales was spotted so everyone rushed out to watch them. It wasn't very warm to sit outside for a long time, but the lounge area had big windows to spot icebergs, birds & two porpoises. 😊

In the afternoon, there was a brief stop at the village of La Tabatière, where, fully covered to defeat the black flies, I had a pretty view of the coastline. Thereafter, there was another presentation on local flora, including a tasting of labrador tea and local jams. And in the evening, I joined the Welsh for an elaborate lobster dinner... not too shabby this boat crossing! 😊

Although the chair in which I was huddled in my sleeping bag was very comfortable, I didn't sleep much, and when at 4:30am a new group of people boarded over a magnificent sunrise that was the end of it... after a refreshing shower and with a calm sea, it was however not a chore 😉 to sit for a few more hours in the lounge taking in the scenery until the boat would arrive at Kegashka, where the road starts again.

The offloading of cars, trailers, ATVs, kayaks, lawnmowers etc etc took ages so I waited 2 hours to finally see my car being craned down, but the time was spent chatting with the other passengers... it's funny that even after only a day it seems like the entire boat knows each other and people take selfies, exchange numbers and hug; Quebecois are very friendly!

This is the eastern terminus of route 138 which starts in Quebec City over a 1,000km away and which I'll need to drive in its entirety, so I better get going!😜 It was hot & humid though and I had trouble focusing on the (first 40k unpaved) road, so ended up laying down in the car for a bit at a pretty rest stop to recover some energy. In the evening, I walked along the promenade at Havre-Saint-Pierre, watching seals, terns and harbour porpoises go after their food (it was so quiet I could hear the porpoises breaching) until I got hungry myself and had a delicious fish dinner overlooking the sea... when I saw the Bella arrive... Walking back to the hotel I ran into the Welsh couple again, a small world!

Next morning, I'm up & ready at 7:45 with a cup of tea and lots of warm clothes for a 6-hour boat excursion to the eastern islands of the Mingan Archipelo national park. The islands are known for their rock monoliths that border their shores, and the first one, Île du Fantôme, didn't disappoint! The interpreter explained how they're formed and gave names to the various formations (like "the Sphynx" or "horse drinking water") but that often needed a healthy dose of imagination. 😉

The second island, Île Niapiskau, has a few impressive, larger monoliths that stand stark on the shore but also has some inland in between the trees, indicating that the sea level (responsible for the tidal erosion) used to be much higher when the land had not rebounded yet from the glacial retreat.

We stayed 2 hours on the final island, Île Quarry, where I walked via a detour along the coast to the monoliths rather than cutting directly through to the other side. The sun had come through and suddenly it was warm again! Beautiful cliffs & rock formations, the smell & sound of the sea... what else is there to say? 😊

This was a great trip and I recommend anyone to make the trek sometime to this remote part of the country (PS I believe all tours are in French so having a basic understanding is essential)!

Once back on shore, I made my way to Longue-Pointe-de-Mingan half an hour west, which acts as the base for exploring the western islands. Enroute, I visit the Maison de la Culture Innu, which has high-quality, interactive exhibits about the Innu who inhabited these lands first. I learned that they have actually a strained relationship with Parks Canada who manages the islands, as they're now no longer allowed to go there to hunt ducks and seals or collect eggs & berries, something they've done for centuries... as an Innu woman put it; "we're suddenly tourists in our own home". It shows how important (and difficult) it is to try to understand all sides of a story.

Having checked into the motel, I realized the village is even tinier than I thought; the one restaurant was closed (Havre-Saint-Pierre had 2 restaurants that were both open), but luckily the gas bar which ran out of gas 😂, did also have a grocery store so I got a Ceasar salad, chicken & cheese to eat on my room while the laundry was running.

I ran out of my picture allowance for this post, too much pretty nature to show 😎, so will continue in the next one.

Icebergs: 5 (on the boat)

Wildlife: 10 humpback whales, 2 harbour porpoises (on the boat), 6 seals (1 grey), 3 porpoises, 6 terns & 2 loons (at Havre-Saint-Pierre), 2 harbour seals, 1 grey seal, 1 porpoise (at the east Mingan archipelo)

SUPs: none

Hikes: one at L'Anse au Clair, one at La Tabatière, one at Île Quarry

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[hippography]

This is an original 1902 photo of La Camargo which came from the Estate of Walter S. Vosburgh. La Camargo was considered a Horse of the Century in France. She was by Childwick, a son of St. Simon, out of Belle et Bonne by Jolly Friar. La Camargo made 34 starts with 24 wins 6 seconds and 1 third earning $176,765. At two in 1900, she won the Prix de la Foret over stakes winners Wilhelmina and Butor. At three in 1901, La Camargo won: the Prix Vermeille over Indian Shore and Lena II; the Prix de Diane over Indian Shore and Dido; the Poule Dessai des Pouliches over Kaffa and Dido. She was second in the Prix Lupin to Saxon, the winner of the 1901 Prix du Jockey Club* and ahead of Cheri, the winner of the 1901 Grand Prix de Paris. La Camargo finished third in the Prix du Conseil Municipal behind Kilmarnock and Jacobite, the winner of the 1901 Prix de Conde. At four in 1902, she won: the Prix du Conseil Municipal over First Principal and Knickknack; the Prix Vicomtesse Vigier over Lady Killer, the winner of the 1901 Prix Foude, and Jean Bart, the winner of the 1901 Prix Dauphin; the Grossen Preis von Baden over Over Norton, the winner of the 1903 Lincolnshire Handicap, and Codoman, the winner of the 1900 Prix du Jockey Club;* the Prix du Pin; the Prix Jean Prat; the Prix du Cadran over Saxon and Passaro; and the Prix du Prince d’Orange over Retz, the winner of the 1902 Prix du Jockey Club, and Maximum, the winner of the 1903 Ascot Gold Cup and considered one of best stayers of all time. La Camargo finished second in the Prix des Sablons to Codoman and ahead of Vieux Marcheur. At five in 1903, she won: the Prix Paul de Moissan; the Prix Dhedouville; the Prix Fille de Lair over Lisette and La Chine; the Prix Boiard over Caius and Retz; the Prix Dispahan over Grandesse, the winner of the 1900 Prix de Saint-James, and Dalilia; the Prix du Conseil Municipal over Wavelet’s Pride, the winner of the 1903 Doncaster Cup, and Exema, the winner of the 1903 Prix Perth; the Prix des Sablons over Retz and Maximum. La Camargo finished second in the Grossen Preis Von Baden to Vinicius and ahead of Alencon. At six in 1904, she won the Prix Dispahan over Caius. At stud she had three foals with the best being: Mauri: was the dam of Champion Massine, the winner of the 1923 and the 1924 Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe and the 1924 Ascot Gold Cup. She also produced Mousme who is the ancestress of Regent Street, a multiple stakes winner in France. Mauri was sent to be covered by leading sire Bruleur. While boarding at Notre-Dame-de-Livaye because there was no room at Bruleur’s farm, she suffered a broken leg when she reared up to pick fruit from a Norman apple tree and hung her leg in the fork of the tree, resulting in her death. *this is the French Derby.

Horse racing Legends

[beardedmrbean]

1. 'Qatargate' corruption case discovered during investigation by Belgium's intelligence services

The judicial investigation into possible bribery of MEPs by "a Gulf state" started after an intelligence investigation by Belgium's State Security services, confirmed Federal Justice Minister Vincent Van Quickenborne. Read more.

2. Morocco lose to France in World Cup: Arrests in Brussels and Antwerp following incidents

The hopes of millions of Arabs and Africans across the world were dashed on Wednesday night after France beat Morocco with a 2-0 victory in a closely watched World Cup semifinal. Read more.

3. United States purchases land in Etterbeek for new embassies to Belgium and EU

The United States has purchased the Cours Saint-Michel site in the Brussels municipality of Etterbeek to construct new buildings for the US Embassy to Belgium and the US Mission to the European Union. Read more.

4. Diesel vehicles will be banned in Ghent and Antwerp from 2031

Diesel cars will no longer be allowed to enter the low-emission zones (LEZ) of Antwerp and Ghent from 2031, while from 2035, petrol cars will also be banned. Read more.

5. #SaveBoomCafe: Brussels café at risk of being evicted by authorities

'BOOM-café,' one of the last self-organised and non-for-profit spaces in Brussels centre, is at risk of being evicted as it will no longer be able to afford the rent, now that the authorities of the City of Brussels have doubled it. Read more.

6. Two Brussels Italian restaurants ranked in worldwide top 50

50 Top Italy, a prestigious ranking of Italian restaurants around the world, has placed two Brussels Italian restaurants in the top 50 for 2023. Sablon-based Senzanome was awarded 14th place while Da Mimmo in Woluwe-Saint-Lambert came away with 49th. Read more.

7. Hidden Belgium: Général Belliard

On 28 January 1832, Général Augustin-Daniel Belliard collapsed in the Brussels park, after leaving the royal palace. The general, aged 62, had served in Napoleon’s army in dozens of battles from Cairo to Austerlitz. He ended his days as a diplomat in the French embassy near the park. Read more.

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Brussels and Beyond: Tasting Belgium’s Best in the Heart of Europe

Belgium’s capital, Brussels, is often called the "Heart of Europe," not only because it serves as the seat of the European Union but also because of its rich history, diverse culture, and, of course, its world-renowned cuisine. From decadent chocolates to crispy waffles and flavorful beers, Brussels offers a culinary experience that reflects the soul of Belgium. For those who want to discover the best flavors of the city (and a bit beyond), here’s how you can savor Belgium’s finest in one delicious day.

Start with Belgian Chocolate – A Sweet Beginning

No trip to Brussels is complete without indulging in some of the world’s finest chocolate. Begin your day with a visit to the famous Grand Place, where you’ll find a myriad of chocolate shops tucked among the guild houses. Pierre Marcolini and Neuhaus are just two iconic names to consider, both offering luxurious assortments of pralines and truffles.

While exploring the Grand Place, take a moment to admire the ornate architecture that surrounds you. It’s the perfect backdrop for indulging in your chocolate haul. If you’re a true chocoholic, consider visiting the Choco-Story Brussels Museum to learn more about the history and art of Belgian chocolate-making.

Mid-Morning: Waffles at Place Sainte-Catherine

By mid-morning, it’s time to sample one of Belgium’s most famous treats: the Belgian waffle. Head to Place Sainte-Catherine, a lively square known for its food markets and cozy eateries. Here, you’ll find a variety of spots serving freshly made Liège waffles – sweeter, denser, and caramelized, as well as Brussels waffles – lighter and crispier, served with toppings like whipped cream, fruit, or chocolate.

Sit at a café terrace and enjoy this sweet delicacy with a cup of Belgian coffee. You’ll quickly notice that waffles in Belgium are not just for breakfast – they’re an all-day affair.

Afternoon: Savoring Mussels and Frites

For lunch, it’s time to dive into Belgium’s national dish: moules-frites (mussels and fries). Wander over to the Sablon district, known for its elegant atmosphere and excellent dining options. One of the best places to try this quintessential Belgian meal is Chez Léon, where the mussels are served steaming in a pot, prepared with various broths like white wine, garlic, or cream. Paired with golden, crispy fries, this is a dish that’s both comforting and flavorful.

Don’t forget the essential Belgian tradition of dipping your fries in mayonnaise, a must-try combination that locals swear by. You’ll likely be served an assortment of sauces to accompany your fries, so experiment and find your favorite.

Take a Detour for Beer Tasting in Leuven

After lunch, if you’re feeling adventurous, consider taking a short train ride to Leuven, a charming town about 20 minutes from Brussels. Leuven is home to Stella Artois, one of Belgium’s most famous beer brands, and the city itself is known for its thriving beer culture. Visit a local pub like The Capital, which boasts an extensive beer list, or tour the Stella Artois Brewery for an inside look at the brewing process.

If you prefer to stay in Brussels, visit Delirium Café, famous for having over 2,000 beers available. From fruity lambics to rich Trappist ales, Belgium’s beer diversity is staggering, and you’ll want to sample a few varieties to appreciate the full range of flavors.

Early Evening: Chocolate and Beer Pairing

As you return to Brussels, indulge in one of Belgium’s most unique culinary experiences: a chocolate and beer pairing. Several chocolatiers and bars in the city offer this combination, allowing you to taste how the bitterness of dark chocolate complements the rich, malty flavors of Belgian beer. Some excellent places to try this pairing are Maison Dandoy and Moeder Lambic.

If you're still eager to explore more of Brussels’ culinary delights, take a short walk to Galeries Royales Saint-Hubert, a beautiful glass-roofed shopping arcade filled with artisanal chocolate shops and cafés. It’s the perfect place to pick up edible souvenirs for your journey home.

Dinner: Carbonnade Flamande and Stoofvlees

For dinner, treat yourself to a hearty Carbonnade Flamande or Stoofvlees, two traditional Belgian stews that are slow-cooked with Belgian beer for a rich, savory flavor. These dishes are typically served with fries or mashed potatoes and a side of mustard. Head to La Roue d’Or or Restobieres, both known for serving authentic Belgian cuisine in a cozy, welcoming atmosphere.

End with a Nightcap: Brussels by Night

As night falls, Brussels reveals another layer of its charm. Take an evening stroll through the Mont des Arts, where you’ll find breathtaking views of the city lit up against the night sky. For a final treat, stop by a bar in Ixelles or the Marolles district to enjoy a glass of Belgian genever, a juniper-flavored spirit that is the precursor to modern gin.

Conclusion: A Day of Belgian Delights

Whether it’s savoring the finest chocolates, indulging in mussels and fries, or sampling Belgium’s legendary beers, a day in Brussels offers a true feast for the senses. While this day trip may only scratch the surface of Belgium’s rich culinary heritage, it provides a delicious taste of the country’s traditions.

For a more tailored experience, consider travel agencies like Roomchai Limited, which offer personalized culinary tours in Belgium, allowing you to uncover hidden gems and local secrets. Other agencies like Brussels Food Tours and Gourmet Belgian Journeys also specialize in immersive food experiences, perfect for travelers looking to explore Belgium’s rich gastronomy.

Brussels’ unique flavors, combined with its historic charm and cultural vibrancy, make it a must-visit destination for any foodie or traveler in search of Europe’s best.

[madanidgitalteam]

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[andrigreenery]

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