#DALCAHUE
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Yo le diría que chi, lo é.
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Sigue y suma @Maitenas
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Un pedido especial para el recuerdo✨ desde una foto antigua en blanco y negro a este cuadro full color. Añadí la ventana con una playa de Chiloé, los azules como el agua que guarda nuestra memoria. . #acrilico #chiloe #artechiloe #dalcahue #painting #artechile #artistaperuana #drawing #artwork (en Dalcahue, Castro, Chiloé, Chile) https://www.instagram.com/p/Cp0Z_wyMkrF/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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Dalcahue. The church where the funeral was held. Inside the church - the chancel and the organ, Mary and Jesus icons and some of the thousands of mourners in traditional dress attending the ceremony. Then a local shop and the market with Heather sneaking around the back of it to avoid the crowd.
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Parroquia "nuestra señora de dolores" en Dalcahue, Chiloé.
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"Lanchas al atardecer de bahia de Dalcahue" by Fotografía transición is marked with CC0 1.0.
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Churches of Chiloe
Today, we're journeying to the mystical island of Chiloé in southern Chile, home to a unique collection of churches that have earned a spot on the prestigious UNESCO World Heritage list. These wooden churches are not just architectural marvels but also a testament to the rich cultural fusion that took place on this remote island.
The Churches of Chiloé are a stunning example of what happens when cultures collide in the best possible way. Built between the 18th and 19th centuries, these churches reflect a blend of indigenous Mapuche culture and Spanish colonial influences, resulting in a distinct architectural style known as "Chilota." The craftsmanship of the local Huilliche carpenters, combined with European techniques, created something truly extraordinary.
In 2000, the Churches of Chiloé were officially recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, highlighting their global cultural significance. The designation helps ensure that these wooden treasures are preserved and protected for future generations, allowing visitors from around the world to experience the magic of Chiloé.
What makes these churches particularly special is their construction material—wood. In a region where wood is abundant but stone is scarce, the local builders turned to the native timber, creating structures that have stood the test of time. The churches are built entirely of wood, from the grand façades to the intricate interiors, showcasing the incredible skill of the artisans who crafted them.
The UNESCO World Heritage designation encompasses 16 churches spread across Chiloé Island and the nearby islets. Each church has its own unique character, but together they form a cohesive network that tells the story of the island's history, faith, and community spirit. Some of the most famous include San Francisco de Castro, with its vibrant yellow and purple exterior, and the serene Nuestra Señora de los Dolores in Dalcahue.
These churches have been the heart of their communities for centuries. Beyond their architectural beauty, they serve as places of worship, gathering, and celebration. The wooden bell towers, often visible from afar, have guided generations of Chilotes to these sacred spaces. The churches are a living part of the island’s heritage, with festivals, religious ceremonies, and traditions still very much alive today.
One of the standout churches is the San Francisco Church in Castro, the capital of Chiloé. Its striking yellow façade and Gothic-inspired design make it a must-see. Step inside, and you'll be greeted by a warm wooden interior with arched ceilings and vibrant stained glass windows. It's a perfect example of how these churches blend European influences with local craftsmanship.
Another gem is Nuestra Señora de Gracia de Nercon, located just outside Castro. This church, with its simple yet elegant design, perfectly encapsulates the Chilota style. The soft hues of the wooden interior and the peaceful atmosphere make it a serene spot for reflection.
A visit to Chiloé offers more than just a glimpse of these incredible churches. The island itself is a place of myths and legends, with lush landscapes, charming fishing villages, and a slower pace of life that invites you to relax and explore. Whether you're visiting during one of the island's many festivals or simply soaking in the tranquil atmosphere, Chiloé is a destination that stays with you long after you've left.
The Churches of Chiloé are not just buildings; they are symbols of a unique cultural heritage, blending faith, community, and craftsmanship in a way that is truly captivating. If you ever find yourself in Chile, make sure to journey to this enchanting island and experience the beauty of its wooden churches firsthand. ⛪️ 🌿 🇨🇱
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Monday, November 27
Quiet day while we prepare to drive back to Puerto Montt and then fly to Punto Arenas. Drive to Dalcahue for a few errands and walk on the local beach by the Airbnb in the morning and evening. Carol finds some kelp.
No new birds.
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“¡Y cómo suenan esos timbales pariente!”: ¿Por qué gustan tanto las rancheras en el campo chileno?
La primera vez que viví en el campo me impresionó que en todos lados sonaran rancheras a borbotones. Como si exclusivamente necesitaran tres cosas para vivir: comida, agua y rancheras. Por ese entonces, yo venía de ser un estudiante universitario de ciudad, y realmente no encontraba conexión con esa música. Me sonaba muy lejano, incluso la miraba en menos. ¡Dios me perdone!
Pero sucedió el verano pasado: viajando en bus con destino a Dalcahue sonó una canción que me cautivó. Me entró por los oídos y se sumergió en mis venas, contagiándome de su alegría. Mi cuerpo se movía solo, se me dibujó una sonrisa de oreja a oreja. Y quise seguir escuchando más y más.
Luego vino un comercial donde promocionaban una fiesta de cumbias rancheras. Y pensé con absoluta decisión: ahí estaré.
Y ahí estuve. Y luego no pude parar. Fiesta que había, jaripeos, medialunas, gimnasios rurales, donde fuese, me aparecía con mi sombrero de cuero a bailar. Y fue tal mi apasionamiento que me puse a conversar con la gente campesina para entender este fenómeno, donde la cultura mexicana ha sido absorbida y asimilada por el campo chileno.
Y es que como su nombre lo revela, la ranchera se propaga desde el campo mexicano con gran éxito a Chile gracias a sus películas tan populares en los años 40s. Y fue inevitable que el sabor de la música al ritmo del galope de los caballos, las temáticas sobre amor, picardía y asuntos relacionados a la vida rural generaran una fuerte identificación. Al punto de ser apropiada por los campesinos chilenos. Mezclándola con los instrumentos locales, y volviéndola tan representativa para los huesos, como la mismísima cueca.
Escrito por: Fernando Osorio redactor de Silvestre & Coqueta.
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Mercredi 7 décembre : Curaco - Achao - Dalcahue - Castro
Mercredi 7 décembre : Curaco – Achao – Dalcahue – Castro
Départ sous la pluie, avec Lizzie et son collegue. Ils me déposent à la gare routière et je suis bien contente que Lizzie m’ait prêté son costume de pluie. Comme elle m’a préparé mon trajet la veille, je m’arrête à la Cruz de Mocopulli pour prendre un autre bus destination Dalcahue, où je prend un autre bus pour l’île de Quinchao. Heureusement les locaux me répondent toujours avec amabilité pour…
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Colec. Chile y Japón xx. Julio 2023-mayo 2017. Santiago. @Maitenas Dalcahue Chiloe.
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✨Te gustaría tatuarte este diseño?👀 Lo tengo en súper promo❣️ El tamaño mínimo es de 16cm, idealmente en pierna o brazo. Se realizar pequeñas modificaciones si deseas. 📍Estudio privado en el centro de Dalcahue. 💌 Escríbeme para cualquier consulta . . #artwork #tatuajesmujeres #tatuajeschiloe #diseñotatuaje #inktattoo #inkdrawing #mujeresartistas (en Dalcahue, Castro, Chiloé, Chile) https://www.instagram.com/p/CljbWSDp5FV/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=
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Days 15-17 The Rest of the Cruise
Day 15 - Saturday, 18 March Quemchi
This was another surprisingly enjoyable shore excursion – and one that added sixteen birds to my Chilean list, most of them also being added to my life list.
We were ferried ashore in the lifeboats where we went through a moderately rigorous inspection by the local Police and Customs people (and their dogs). All good, although I noticed one guy had something confiscated from his backpack. Then we were on to six buses to go to two places – a fishing village (Dalcahue – the place of canoes), with a UNESCO-listed church; and an island accessed by a long wooden bridge (Island of the Navigating Souls – something like, but not the same as, Purgatory).
We went to the church first, an hour or so’s drive, and as it happened, a very significant day in the village. A special woman – I think a nun – was killed in a horrible (unspecified) accident a few days ago and it was her funeral when we were there.
We were at the church a little while before the funeral service so we took some photos outside and our guide ushered us inside for more photos with a very sensitive caution to show respect for the church and the few mourners already inside.
We then walked a couple of hundred metres down to the port area where we had great views of some of the birds on the boats and along the shore. We walked through an area where stopped to watch some fishermen cleaning their catch and selling it from little stalls - and not much further on, there was a permanent market with a huge array of local arts and crafts for sale. I was more interested in the seals, vultures, kingfishers, gulls and so on that make the area their home but I did walk through part of the market without buying anything.
Back on the bus, we wound our way very slowly past the church where at least a couple of thousand people had gathered. There were groups of people in traditional dress and uniformed gauchos or hausos in Chile (the nun had been a horse rider among other popular things) and they were all lining up for some sort of outdoor ceremony or parade. As we drove out of town, we passed hordes of people streaming into the town to attend the funeral. She must have been a very special person to have such a huge crowd at her funeral.
We drove back quite close to the ship where there is an island on which is a small church and a very colourful cemetery. It is called the Island of Navigating Souls where people are buried awaiting admission to paradise - something of a halfway house, but I didn’t understand it all. We had been told that there were a lot of birds on the island, but I only saw or heard a handful. On the other hand, at the shore-end of the walkway out to the island, there were thousands of birds, some quite remarkable, and at least a dozen or fifteen species, most of which were new to me.
There was an opportunity to go back ashore for the afternoon but only in the slightly rundown port town, nowhere near our morning venues. Quite a few people did, but we decided not to. I had close to twenty birds that I had seen in the morning that I wanted to identify and that took quite a bit of time.
Day 16 - Sunday, 19 March All at sea
We were at sea all day and out of sight of land almost all day - with just an occasional few smudges of land far out to starboard. There was a compulsory disembarkation briefing in the morning and a long, disjointed rambling lecture about the early history of both Chile and Argentina up until the mid-1980s in the afternoon.
We spent most of the rest of the day in our cabin. We had to pack from scratch and actually managed to get everything in. I thought we were up to our limit when we left home and we purchased a case, and more than a case of emergency items, in BA when our bags were lost. We also had two big expedition jackets to fit in but we achieved it. When we went through check-in at the airport, one case was 24.8 and the other 17.9 kilos. I am sure both our carry-on cases are over 10 kilos and I suspect that my backpack would be over the limit too. We really need to find a way to travel lighter!
We have had some really stunning sunrises and sunsets as we have travelled further north. When there have been a few clouds around, we have seen the spectacular displays with which we are fairly familiar. But when there are no clouds, the dawns start with a deep red line on the horizon that slowly creeps up across most of the sky and the whole unblemished sky slowly transforms through paler reds, through oranges to brilliant yellow - and over the next half hour or so, it bleaches into pale cream until the blue of day gradually takes over. I have never seen anything as dramatic before and the sunsets are almost as stunning. Maybe a feature of where we are in the world?
Day 17 - Monday, 20 March
We were up about 6am after a surreptitious foray into the passage at 4am to retrieve one of our cases to insert a couple of things we had omitted. And well before 7, the whole ship was regaled with a heavily amplified band tuning up on the dock in Talcahuaca. A little later, the welcome show started in earnest with a few musicians, a small choir and a couple of dancers demonstrating some of the local culture. They were dressed in traditional colourful dress, serapes, gaucho hats, spurs, the whole works. We stood on our balcony and watched for a while. While this was happening, our bags were all tossed onto the concrete wharf in front of the performers and lined up very neatly for the sniffer-dogs to do their inspection.
We obviously passed and started our final disembarkation process right after breakfast and in due course, the pink and grey groups (did you say galahs?) were called to collect our baggage and board the bus to the Concepcion airport. Our bus was delayed for about 15 minutes because one of the Australian women was detained by security. Somehow, Ponant had recorded her documents showing her as Irish with an incorrect passport number and it took them some time to sort it out and issue her with the correct documents.
One amusing thing was that we had a local guide on our bus and she had been told that we were all French speakers - alas, none of us were. She had prepared quite a lot of information to give us in French and spent most of the trip on her phone trying to translate her presentation into English. Everyone was very sympathetic and she took it all in good humour.
I was fascinated to see the public gardens beside the road on the way to the airport. They went for many kilometres and although they were often not much more than forty or fifty metres wide, they were all sparkling fresh and green. I saw a few automatic sprinklers working, but it seems that hand-watering by an army of gardeners is the norm. there must be many thousands of them to keep such a huge area of grass and plantings so lush and attractive. Maybe it is the answer to the unemployment issue, but it certainly made the dive pleasant.
When we arrived at the airport, it was so crowded that they asked us to stay on the bus until the crush abated somewhat. That was a great opportunity for me to have a half-hour nap - I just zonked right out for the duration.
Inside the airport, the process was pretty smooth and we sat down for the two-hour wait for our flight. Boarding was interesting with a French stampede for the doors as soon as they were open. I think we were supposed to board by group but there was no holding back the cascade of people. In the sky bridge, one guy came belting down the ramp and elbowed me aside to jump the queue and I saw another woman weave her way through at least ten couples patiently waiting to board. She only stopped behind us because I positioned our carry-on bags so she couldn’t get past - so she stood behind me kicking my bag repeatedly. The plane wasn’t going to leave without her so what was the panic. Characteristically French?
Heather and I had aisle seats but 12 rows apart - makes you wonder doesn’t it? And it was clear that luggage storage was going to be a problem so I stowed all ours over me in the front before I sat down. Unfortunately, I accidentally sat on the wrong side of the aisle and was just getting settled when I got a shove on my shoulder and a gruff instruction to ‘Move!’. I had inadvertently offended another a Frenchman.
The flight was just over an hour with the Andes just outside to the east. It is certainly an impressive range of huge mountains.
We arrived in Santiago airport after yet another example of French rudeness. I was sitting in an aisle seat and there was a French couple sitting next to me. As soon as the seatbelt light went out, the woman in the window seat crawled over her husband and then me to retrieve her case from the overhead locker - and promptly cracked me over the head with it. The French were utterly determined to be the first off the plane if they had to climb over all the seats to make it. I have my standards and think I am relatively tolerant, but I have never encountered a race as pushy and offensive as the French. There were numerous other examples along the way but the clear consensus of all the non-French passengers on the ship is that if we see another French person, it will be too soon!
The walk through the terminal was just on two kilometres but we finally collected our bags and were out in the sunshine for a very short walk to our hotel. Once settled, we went down to the bar for a cold drink and spent a very decadent hour or two nursing a couple of drinks and watching the Irish beat the Poms in some unknown six-nations rugby union final on the other side of the world. After a shower and a shave we went back for a burger for dinner and watched a very much less attractive match when the obnoxious French beat the Welsh in some other unknown competition.
And then we were overdue to crash into bed given a 5am start tomorrow.
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Recorriendo Chiloé #Chiloe #island #palafitos #Castro #Curaco #Dalcahue #Achao https://www.instagram.com/p/CaN7u28sSfO/?utm_medium=tumblr
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