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davidkehr08 · 1 year ago
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Zoology Assignment Help
Zoology is a branch of biology that delves into the intricate world of animals and is one subject that captures the interest of many students all over the world. However, navigating the complexities of zoology assignments can be a challenging task; it requires solid knowledge of the subject matter. When students get zoology assignment help, they are more likely to get better grades because experienced academic writers provide help with zoology assignments so they can complete them on time. Also, they have the opportunity to learn from experts in the field. This can help students develop a better understanding of the subject and improve their thinking abilities. If you are looking for reliable zoology assignment help, you can check out our writing services, which are one of the best for students based in Australia.
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fawntastic · 16 hours ago
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The Animals in that Country, and us – are we Really so Different?
The Animals in that Country by Laura Jean McKay is not exactly about disease, rather, McKay presents readers with an almost prophetic hypothetical, informed by Australia’s reactions to change. The novel’s protagonist, Jean Bennet, a middle-aged, alcoholic zoo employee, positions readers to watch as the world around Jean – and them – dissolves into chaos following the spread of a zoonotic disease, ‘Zooflu’. I was in two minds about this book – as someone with OCD, diseases are terrifying, and the 2020 pandemic was one of the worst times of my life. Yet, I care greatly about the voices of more-than-humans – which helped me finish the book, a decision which I am glad to have made. McKay blends the more realistic conventions of Australian literature with graphic speculative elements, wrenching the familiar away from both her readers, and Jean. Although written from the perspective of a white, semi-conservative woman, the novel accomplishes turning the Australian literary scene’s familiar rural landscape into a dystopic wasteland, full of talking, opinionated and sometimes aggressive more-than-human individuals. Through her portrayal of the relationship between humans and the more-than-human, McKay exposes the follies of anthropocentrism, the nature of Australian identity, and toys with the idea that if humans do not react to change, change will overtake and violate them.
Foremostly, McKay opens a dialogue about more-than-humans, and how we (Western humans) have brought them close to our homes through environmental degradation, assigned them a place in our world, yet, would be unprepared to see them as equals. By extension, McKay highlights the nature of oppression, which thrives off exposing the deficits and differences of another group, creating the ‘other’. Animals are assigned a subconscious, lower rank within Western society, which creates a disconnect between humans and more-than-humans (Wyckoff). Within McKay’s novel, however, the Zooflu grants each animal a distinct, non-human ‘voice’, which they relay through their bodies – a stark contrast to human conversation, creating disconnects between uninformed speculation and reality. This is evident within Jean, who anthropomorphises animals by giving them quirky, cartoonish personalities and voices. Despite the hyperbole, she considers herself an expert. This is explicit early-on, where she mistakes Princess-Pie the crow’s calls for signs of “…never grow[ing] up,” (McKay 17), or her attachment to the deuteragonist, Sue. The commercialised nature of Australia’s landscape and animals is critiqued through the initial setting of the park, and further explored through Jean’s control over Sue. Jean believes her bond with the kelpie-Dingo cross to be motherly, yet her relationship with Sue is flipped on its head as the two search for Jean’s granddaughter, Kim. Jean continues to see herself as dominant to Sue, without understanding the impacts her behaviour (having sex with Graham, wandering off, refusing to cooperate (McKay)) on the two’s relationship. Therefore, Sue’s hierarchical understanding of the world (as a dingo) leads to her social and physical dominance of Jean (Newsome et al.). Whilst initially flattered by Sue’s denotation of her as “Queen” (McKay 80), Jean begins to crave it, especially when demoted to “Mother” (158) or “Cat” (195). Furthermore, Jean seems to sympathise with trapped animals – such as the pigs she lets out – without understanding the impacts of freeing domesticated and invasive animals, nor the irony of desiring similar control over Sue (Brink et al.). Sue is her friend, the pigs are prisoners- they become people within animal-suits, rather than individuals, even with the communication opened. These concepts can be further explored through how the novel employs perspective to critique the relationship humans and more-than-humans share.
The novel is told solely from the perspective of Jean, a white, conservative woman, which creates a bridge for both Jean and audiences’ minds to comprehend her changing world. This tells the story entirely from a heteronormative, white standpoint, which exacerbates the differences between animal and human minds. A key debate within the more-than-human conversations I have participated in is whether humans can speak for animals, or whether human voices override the truth with fictitious ideas of how the more-than-human would sound (Čadková). There are many difficulties which come with representing more-than-human voice, amplified by McKay’s lived experience as a white woman. Scholar Höckert states:
[We can approach these discussions]…by acknowledging the impossibility of ‘giving voice’ to others as transparent mediums. In other words, this means recognizing the ‘white man’s burden’ in postcolonial encounters and reflecting on the responsibilities and risks that come from representing ‘the Other’ (Höckert 13)
The novel credits four more-than-humans, showing some collaboration with other organisms, however, due to the ‘white man’s burden’ Höckert mentions, Mckay may have chosen to represent a White protagonist. Similarly, the literary community possesses a largely-white reader-base, giving Jean potential to be a mirror for self-reflection (English). Jean never truly adapts to Sue’s lifestyle, merely begins to see herself as an equal – exemplified where she states:  
…Whole bloody dog pack howling like an approaching cyclone around the shed. Has me diving for a blanket. Expect Sue to crawl in beside me, but fuck me if she doesn’t prepare her body, paws muttering
(Keep
It) Together (McKay 244)
The short, sharp sentences, sometimes lacking in prepositions, begin to mimic Sue’s speech as Jean falls more and more ill. Despite this, she fails to recognise the significance of the other Dingoes’ howls to Sue. Jean and Sue are narrative foils, here, as  both long for freedom, and for their family. Both are assertive, and both want to protect each other, and yet, Jean can never truly separate herself from seeing Sue as inherently lesser. Jean’s perspective is unreliable, as the reader must empathise with Sue’s longing to acknowledge that Jean truly does not understand her counterpart, and, to an extent, Sue cannot understand her. This is reflected on a wider scale in the climax, where humans en-masse are joining migrating whales, “…getting in with their clothes and shoes on…[taking] a few giggling steps out, then the sea bed drops them into darker water, chests and chins” (288). There is an almost desperation for an easy solution – to be one with the animals – Jean’s son, Lee, and the other humans, believe the whales are calling to them. The intent of the whales is left unknown, however, I like to interpret it as non-malicious. As a migratory species, the whales likely did not intend for mass-human deaths, rather, they were talking with each other, ensuring everyone stays on-track (Fonscea et al). The humans within the novel split into factions – much like Australia’s response to change – with those drowning themselves presented diametrically to the Church-goers within the area. There is a misunderstanding about how systems and individuals operate, leading to panic or destructive ideology through hope for salvation, exemplified in the mass suicides and animal brutality each faction takes to. This somewhat reflects the desire to stop the escalating climate disaster without the radical change to systems that is needed, aligning McKay’s novel with Climate Fiction (Stern & Stiglitz). Jean’s mission positions her as relatively neutral, not swaying to either side, until she is impacted directly by the Zooflu through her son’s death. Jean’s perspective, therefore, allows the reader to understand how they can be affected by major events, even if they consider themselves unable to be affected – a concept enriched through the explicit embedding of Australian identity and parallels to Australian literary classics.
McKay’s unique Australian voice runs throughout the narrative, generating a sense of familiarity to the dystopian scenario. Jean’s Australian identity is undeniable, due to McKay’s characterisation and use of slang – despite the story only mentioning a ‘north’ and a ‘south’ to orient readers. I found myself comparing the novel to Wake in Fright, by Kenneth Cook. The well-known scene where Grant commits an orgiastic kangaroo massacre, alongside the odyssey from country town to city are parallelled, yet somewhat flipped, in the violence and sexuality of Jean’s journey. Jean is Grant, hard as nails, chasing her son to the south coast to rescue her granddaughter. The South is not an idealistic place, rather, a land of “…soft-cock” (McKay 23) people, her hatred amplified by her conservatism, and the influence it has had on her son. Yet, as Docker states:
The city is associated with water as a principle of female vitality. The outback is associated with beer as a kind of water surrogate, flowing over the men’s faces, hair, clothes, bodies (63)
Drinking is key to Jean’s character and identity, alongside smoking and, on one instance, consuming cough-syrup and soda (Lean) – with the latter also given to Sue. Jean’s drinking is linked to her isolation, her low-socioeconomic class, and, like Grant, is a crutch to cope with her emotions (Cook). Within the aforementioned scene, Jean encourages Sue to drink the ‘purple’:
(Yesterday)
Mother…
…guess I thought they’d have more to say.’ I drain the glass. The publican pours me another, straight syrup this time, and gets down to give Sue a nip in her empty water bowl too. ‘Maybe this’ll help her talk properly.’ (McKay 158)
Alcohol and drugs are intrinsic parts of Australian culture, to the point where those in other countries conflate the continent with erratic and inebriated behaviour (Savic et al.). The use of substances christens Sue into personhood, as Jean begins to see Sue as a human, and able to partake in human activities. This, in turn, fosters further co-dependence between the two. Jean is isolated within a world of isolated people – connected by the virus, yet navigating the situation on her own, and this causes her to impose the responsibility of human support onto Sue. This links back to Wake in Fright, as circularity is a concept Cook represents, where his story ends, not with a moral, but back where it started. Both Jean and Grant begin the story alone, and end it alone, albeit, irrevocably changed. Within McKay’s work, Jean, and, by extension, the world, are stuck in a transient state, on the precipice (Gildersleeve). Now, more than ever, Australia and the world are faced with a myriad of challenges that many individuals, such as Jean, will have to live through and process. Whilst an effective showcase of how the White Australian could be impacted, McKay’s work does exclude some voices, which, if present, could have elevated the importance of understanding human-to-more-than-human relationships.
Interesting to me was that plants and fungi were not included in the Zooflu, despite being integral parts of any environment. Of course – this would have complicated the narrative greatly, and would have called into question how these organisms communicate, and how the virus jumps from an animal-to-plant/fungus host – however, their exclusion does reveal a hierarchy within the hierarchy. As noted by scholar Viera, the connection between colonisation and more-than-human communities (specifically plants) are:
…also striking. Relegated to the margins of Western thought, both categories have been posited as negative images of modernity’s triumphant ideals… modernity has been charted…as an effort to tame a wild and unruly nature (3).
Australia’s landscape is so unique due to its many years of isolation, being an Island continent. This allowed for co-evolution of fauna and flora – ornithophily, or avian pollination, has required plants, such as Proteaceae to develop thick stems to accommodate the birds’ weight, and plants, as well as animals, have adapted to harsh and dry conditions (Botha). These are understood and harmonised with by First Nations peoples, who connect with Country to live wholistically within it (Green & Martin). The plants, fungi, and the relationships they share with the animals are not emphasised by McKay, despite the key role symbiotic relationships have in animal existences, especially Australian ones. It still represents a hierarchy, where human-animal differences are somewhat neutralised, but plants and fungi share none of the representation. This contributes to the sense of segregation within the novel, as each group of animals is represented almost as a gang – the birds of prey all seem antagonistic, the rats present as a monolith of appetite, and the Whales all sing for humans to (presumably) join. Whilst this reveals the individual animals’ characteristics, it presents organisms as islands, and does not support ideas that we should be living symbiotically with our ecosystem (Gurrero). Alongside this, the voices of Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples are rarely acknowledged within the novel – adding to its location-less embodiment of Australia, but functionally nullifying the impacts of the virus on their Culture, Totems and beliefs. Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander peoples were “…highly vulnerable [to COVID-19] as a result of systemic and long-term neglect” (Markham et al. 26), yet McKay’s story leaves out this critical perspective – perhaps as a result of Jean’s inherent prejudice. Even without the coincidental emergence of COVID-19 as the novel was released, a representation of how a disease of this scale could impact the most vulnerable socioeconomically would enable the novel’s commentary to possess more impact. Therefore, whilst the novel provides much-needed and respectful depictions of its more-than-human subjects, it does wholistically lack representation for other humans and more-than-humans who are intrinsic to a conversation about marginal communities within Australia.
Therefore, through understanding the depictions, narrative choices, key ideas and the potential exclusions, The Animals in that Country is a book I would recommend to anybody who wants a grounded, Australian apocalyptic story. Despite leaving out some perspectives, McKay’s work appeals to a rising uncertainty within all of us about the future. As Jean is left on the precipice, I wondered what her world would look like – what new organisations would arise, and what ways humans could harness the virus to improve human and more-than-human relations. Jean is left at a crossroads – her society could improve, or it could fracture further. As humans further and further degrade communities and ecosystems, we are likely to face ongoing crises, which will change the ways we interact with each other and the world at large. These issues will advance closer and closer to home – therefore, we must rise to the challenge with mutual understanding and support for ourselves, and the communities we are a part of.
Your reward for getting through this? Dingo scribbles!
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Works cited:
Botha, P. W. The World without Birds : An Experimental Test of the Ecological Significance of Pollinating Birds for Plant Communities. 2017, www.semanticscholar.org/paper/The-world-without-birds-%3A-an-experimental-test-of-Botha/14c449e88ffa46c613c056933e17d499ba9e1c25. Accessed 3 Feb. 2025.
Brink, Henry, et al. “Pets and Pests: A Review of the Contrasting Economics and Fortunes of Dingoes and Domestic Dogs in Australia, and a Proposed New Funding Scheme for Non-Lethal Dingo Management.” Wildlife Research, vol. 46, no. 5, 2019, p. 365, https://doi.org/10.1071/wr19030.
Čadková, Lucie. “Do They Speak Language?” Biosemiotics, vol. 8, no. 1, Dec. 2014, pp. 9–27, https://doi.org/10.1007/s12304-014-9225-9.
Cook, Kenneth, and Peter Temple. Wake in Fright. Text Publishing, 2017.
Docker, John. “Epistemological Vertigo and Allegory: Thoughts on Massacres, Actual, Surrogate, and Averted – Beersheba, Wake in Fright, Australia.” ANU Press EBooks, vol. 1, no. 1, ANU Press, Sept. 2010, https://doi.org/10.22459/ph.09.2010.03. Accessed 27 Oct. 2024.
English, James F., et al. Literary Studies and Human Flourishing. Oxford University Press, 2023.
Fonseca, Catarina T., et al. “Dive Behavior and Activity Patterns of Fin Whales in a Migratory Habitat.” Frontiers in Marine Science, vol. 9, Frontiers Media, July 2022, https://doi.org/10.3389/fmars.2022.875731.
Gildersleeve, Jessica. “‘Weird Melancholy’ and the Modern Television Outback: Rage, Shame, and Violence in Wake in Fright and Mystery Road.” M/c Journal, vol. 22, no. 1, Mar. 2019, https://doi.org/10.5204/mcj.1500. Accessed 9 Dec. 2020.
Green, Donna, and David Martin. “Maintaining the Healthy Country–Healthy People Nexus through Sociocultural and Environmental Transformations: Challenges for the Wik Aboriginal People of Aurukun, Australia.” Australian Geographer, vol. 48, no. 3, Aug. 2016, pp. 285–309, https://doi.org/10.1080/00049182.2016.1220898.
Guerrero, Ricardo, and Mercedes Berlanga. “From the Cell to the Ecosystem: The Physiological Evolution of Symbiosis.” Evolutionary Biology, vol. 43, no. 4, Springer Science+Business Media, Nov. 2015, pp. 543–52, https://doi.org/10.1007/s11692-015-9360-5. Accessed 3 Feb. 2025.
Höckert, Emily. “On Scientific Fabulation: Storytelling in the More-Than-Human World.” Edward Elgar Publishing EBooks, vol. 1, no. 1, Edward Elgar Publishing, Oct. 2020, https://doi.org/10.4337/9781839108709.00009. Accessed 29 Jan. 2025.
Laura Jean Mckay. Animals in That Country. Scribe Publications, 2022.
Markham, F., et al. INDIGENOUS AUSTRALIANS and the COVID-19 CRISIS: PERSPECTIVES on PUBLIC POLICY. 2020, core.ac.uk/download/pdf/304376003.pdf.
Newsome, Thomas M., et al. “Home Range, Activity and Sociality of a Top Predator, the Dingo: A Test of the Resource Dispersion Hypothesis.” Ecography, vol. 36, no. 8, Mar. 2013, pp. 914–25, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1600-0587.2013.00056.x.
Savic, Michael, et al. “Defining ‘Drinking Culture’: A Critical Review of Its Meaning and Connotation in Social Research on Alcohol Problems.” Drugs: Education, Prevention and Policy, vol. 23, no. 4, Apr. 2016, pp. 270–82, https://doi.org/10.3109/09687637.2016.1153602.
Stern, Nicholas, and Joseph Stiglitz. “The Economics of Immense Risk, Urgent Action and Radical Change: Towards New Approaches to the Economics of Climate Change.” Journal of Economic Methodology, vol. 29, no. 3, Feb. 2022, pp. 1–36, https://doi.org/10.1080/1350178x.2022.2040740.
Vieira, Patrícia. “Literature as Plant Writing.” Environmental Philosophy, vol. 12, no. 2, Philosophy Documentation Center, 2015, pp. 205–20, https://doi.org/10.2307/26169836. JSTOR.
Wyckoff, Jason. “Hierarchy, Global Justice, and Human–Animal Relations.” Journal of International Wildlife Law & Policy, vol. 19, no. 3, July 2016, pp. 236–55, https://doi.org/10.1080/13880292.2016.1204884. Accessed 13 June 2019.
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lyrebird5 · 1 year ago
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Some university tips from a first-year student currently up to her neck in assignments (please keep in mind, I am Australian, so my perspective of university might be a little bit different):
Give the 2/3/4 hour classes their own day, and try to spring for a time where you know you'll definitely be awake enough to concentrate, but not late enough that you'll be scrambling to do everything else late at night. That last bit goes for all classes, by the way.
Figure out a way to do your prep work that works best for you. At the start of this year I was in such a panic over trying to do every reading, and watch every lecture, and take all the notes. No. It doesn't help anything if you're over-stressing. You can't do everything, so just do whatever helps you most.
For the love of god, do your assignments, and try to get them in on time. It's hard - it's so, so hard - but I promise, getting your work in on time can make all the difference between a pass and a credit (again, I'm Australian, your grading system might be different. Hell, it might be different even if you yourself are Australian, I'm no expert here). My first semester was hell - I think I only got one assignment in on time, and my grades did ultimately suffer, including on a group project (more on that later). Get the assignments done on time, and life becomes just that little bit easier.
Speaking of assignments, map them out. I don't just mean map out how to write them, or do them, I mean literally map out how to approach each one, and how much time to give it. For example, I have about 6 assignments due this month alone. I currently have a map in my head of how long each assignment needs to get to be completed properly, when the next assignment needs to be started, and when they all need to be in.
Let that map evolve. If things change, so do you, do not let university kick your feet out from under you because trust me, it will gladly do so, and it'll probably take your kneecaps as it does. I personally use an app called ToDodo, as well as my phone calendar. The calendar is what I use to record what assignments are due when, ToDodo is my way of knowing what I've done, what still needs to be done, and where I'm going next. You can even add deadlines, so you can also add in assignments, and have multiple lists to keep things from getting mixed up. I use it for everything - assignments, uni prep, even my groceries and daily reminders. I have a whole list on there for who gets a Christmas present and what my budget for that present is, for crying out loud!
Be smart when you choose your classes. If you're a night person, take later classes, and use the time beforehand for work, or study, or whatever you need to do. Don't assume that you're fine just because class isn't for another few hours. Every second that you stay on top helps.
Revise, revise, revise. Your assignments will come fast, hard, and mercilessly, so take every opportunity to revise. Look over notes, create practice tests, hell, look for tests on Quizlet and Kahoot! If your class issues tests over the content, use them to keep practising. Know your shit so you can ace your exams.
Don't be scared to go for help. Campus counsellors, study groups, they're all there to support you. Talk to your tutors/professors when you have questions, or are facing problems. Get your accomodations. Get the support you need to do well.
I mentioned group assignments earlier, and I wanna go into that a little more. As I've said earlier, I really struggled with my assignments at the start of the year, and I have my own theories on why, but that's for another post. But I can't emphasise this enough: when you are on a group project, you have to help. You have to contribute and do your fair share, for the sake of yourself and your group. I know it sounds like that's just common sense, but I let my assignments fall behind, and that led to me letting my role in the group fall behind - I was submitting things at midnight the night before they needed to be in, and it didn't help anyone. I ended up taking a lower grade than the rest of the group because of this (and to be clear, I agreed to this. I took responsibility, I grew, and I've made sure that my most recent group project was one I contributed to as much as possible). So learn from my mistake: go to your group meetings, talk to your group. Do your share, so that you all get the best grade possible.
Go to events. Join clubs. Just... find friends. Even if it's only one. If you're an introvert, I'd highly recommend you find an extrovert - they're well known for adopting introverts into their friend groups, and those groups tend to also be more extroverted. I'm not ashamed to admit that I really don't have any friends at my own university - I joined a club that I don't participate in, the only friends I have are both in my hometown so I rarely see them, and I don't talk to people in my class unless I have to. Those are all my mistakes. It's scary to put yourself out there, especially if you have any form of anxiety, but you don't necessarily have to do all the work yourself - go to the events that you can. Even just being around the group is a good way to find at least one person to talk to, and if you have friends from different campuses, drag them along too, to be your safe person. Don't go throwing yourself into events that you know you won't feel safe at - don't go to pub crawls when you don't like being around drinking, or karaoke nights when you don't like performing. Go to board game nights if those are more your speed, or other low key events. Even going to mentoring sessions could help.
Get at least a good 6 and a half hours sleep. I know, I know, research says 8 is better. But you're in university. You aren't going to get that 8 hours unless you're magic, or you're further into your university career than I am, and you have a better routine. Six and a half is at least doable.
Hygiene. Tumblr and Reddit and every other social media sites in existence have created whole lists of hoe to maintain your hygiene even on the days when all you can do is lay in bed and cry. Take whatever advice works for you. Use dry shampoo if you can't wash your hair, use gum if you can't brush your teeth. Tie your hair up if you can't brush it, or hide it under a hat. Flip your clothes inside out to hide stains, use perfume and deodorant to mask any smells. Do what you can to take care of yourself, and don't feel bad when you slip, because everyone does. You're human, you can't be indestructible.
I think that's all the advice I have right now. Please keep in mind that I can only speak from my own experiences - what I've learnt, and what works for me, will not work for everyone, I can guarantee it. The best advice I can give is to just figure out what works best for you, and to do your best.
If anyone else has any tips or recommendations, please, reblog this post or comment, or share it with others. Just try to help each other.
Now, if y'all don't mind, it's almost 1 in the morning, and I need to take my own advice and get some sleep.
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cloudedandmuddled · 7 days ago
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There's progress at work (although a bit slow) at least
So there's this project at work that I started July last year and I don't think I will ever shut up about it until I'm finished. As a copywriter of the team, I was assigned to write 150 (160+ actually) Hiring Guide Programmatic SEO pages and that's just for US alone. I had to write the Australian version of all the pages so that was double the number.
I was expected to finish drafting the pages by September last year (only 2 months!) but it was an unrealistic timeline because the pages needed to be optimized, designed, and developed. They hired Noemi, a copyeditor, to proofread and SEO optimize the pages. She was an expert so she was a huge help in the project... until she dropped the project.
I finished drafting the pages in December because I didn't want to bring the project to 2025. But since Noemi dropped the project (for confidential reasons. Whatever happened to transparency?) I had to take over the copyediting and SEO optimization. So yes, I'm back to this project that has been making me nauseous since last year. I thought I'd be able to help Rissa with the other areas of content. I was so excited to help her but nah. I was pulled back to Programmatic SEO.
I've already finished copyediting and optimizing all the remaining US pages and Noemi's WIPs. I'm about to start with the AU version.
I'm so tired. I want to do something new and different.
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study-abroad-delhi · 9 days ago
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Navigating the Australian Education System: A Consultant’s Perspective for Delhi Students
Australia has become one of the top destinations for students from Delhi aspiring to study abroad. Known for its world-class education system, vibrant culture, and ample career opportunities, Australia offers a structured and diverse academic experience. However, understanding the nuances of the Australian education system can be challenging without expert guidance. Here’s a consultant’s perspective on navigating this system effectively, tailored for Delhi students.
1. Understanding the Structure of the Australian Education System
The Australian education system is divided into several levels, each designed to foster academic excellence and skill development.
Primary and Secondary Education: Foundation levels for students aiming to pursue higher education in Australia.
Vocational Education and Training (VET): Practical and skill-based training programs for students seeking industry-ready qualifications.
Higher Education: Comprising undergraduate, postgraduate, and research degrees offered by universities and colleges.
Consultant’s Insight: Many Delhi students aim for higher education, especially undergraduate and postgraduate programs. Choosing the right level based on your academic goals is crucial.
2. Popular Study Levels for International Students
Undergraduate Degrees:
Duration: 3-4 years.
Common fields: Engineering, Business, Health Sciences, and IT.
Postgraduate Degrees:
Duration: 1-2 years.
Focus on specialization and advanced research.
Pathway Programs: For students who need academic or language support before enrolling in degree courses.
Consultant’s Tip: Research entry requirements for your chosen level and ensure your qualifications meet Australian standards.
3. Choosing the Right Institution
Australia is home to 43 universities, including some of the world’s best.
Group of Eight (Go8): Comprising top-tier research-intensive universities like the University of Sydney and Australian National University.
Regional Universities: Known for lower tuition fees and additional migration benefits through regional incentives.
Delhi Consultants’ Role: We help students align their career goals with the institution’s strengths, ensuring an optimal match for academic success.
4. Course Selection: Aligning Goals with Opportunities
The Australian education system offers a wide range of courses across disciplines.
Key Considerations:
Your career aspirations.
Industry demand for specific skills.
Opportunities for internships and research.
Consultant Advice: In-demand fields like data science, renewable energy, healthcare, and engineering offer robust career prospects. Seek professional guidance to choose a course with high employability.
5. Credit System and Assessment
Australian universities use a credit point system, and assessments are a mix of:
Assignments and projects.
Written exams.
Practical and group work.
Consultant’s Guidance: Familiarize yourself with grading systems and seek clarity on credit transfers, especially for Delhi students transitioning from Indian universities.
6. Tuition Fees and Scholarships
Understanding the cost structure is vital for financial planning.
Average Tuition Fees:
Undergraduate: AUD 20,000–45,000 per year.
Postgraduate: AUD 22,000–50,000 per year.
Scholarships: Government initiatives like Australia Awards and institution-specific scholarships provide financial relief.
Expert Tip: Delhi consultants can guide you through scholarship applications, maximizing your chances of receiving financial aid.
7. Importance of English Proficiency
Proficiency in English is a key requirement for admission. Commonly accepted tests include:
IELTS (minimum 6.5 overall score for most universities).
TOEFL and PTE are also widely recognized.
Consultant’s Role: We offer personalized test preparation strategies and help you choose the right exam based on university preferences.
8. Visa Requirements and Compliance
To study in Australia, you’ll need a Subclass 500 Student Visa.
Key Documents:
Confirmation of Enrollment (CoE).
Proof of financial capacity.
English proficiency test scores.
Genuine Temporary Entrant (GTE) Requirement: Demonstrates your intent to study temporarily.
Consultant’s Service: We ensure a seamless visa application process by assisting with documentation, interviews, and compliance with immigration rules.
9. Support Systems for International Students
Australian universities prioritize student well-being.
Student Support Services: Counseling, academic help, and cultural integration programs.
Health Insurance: Overseas Student Health Cover (OSHC) is mandatory.
Delhi Consultant Insight: Familiarizing yourself with these services can help you settle in more comfortably.
10. Post-Study Opportunities
Australia’s focus on retaining skilled talent makes it an attractive destination for Delhi students.
Post-Study Work Visa (Subclass 485): Enables graduates to work in Australia for 2-4 years.
PR Pathways: Courses in demand, such as nursing, IT, and teaching, can lead to permanent residency options.
Consultant’s Strategy: Plan your post-study pathway early to ensure alignment with immigration policies.
Why Work with Study Abroad Consultants in Delhi?
Navigating the Australian education system can be overwhelming. Here’s how consultants like Grace International make the process smoother:
Tailored Guidance: Personalized advice on university and course selection.
Application Assistance: End-to-end support with documentation and submissions.
Scholarship and Financial Aid: Identifying and applying for funding opportunities.
Pre-Departure Support: Cultural orientation and housing assistance.
Conclusion
With a clear understanding of the Australian education system, students from Delhi can make informed decisions that align with their academic and career goals. Leveraging the expertise of study abroad consultants ensures a hassle-free experience, making your dream of studying in Australia a reality.
Ready to embark on this exciting journey? Consult with experts today to take the first step!
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tameblog · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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ramestoryworld · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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alexha2210 · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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angusstory · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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tumibaba · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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romaleen · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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monaleen101 · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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iamownerofme · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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shelyold · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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iammeandmy · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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januishstory · 11 days ago
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Thaumatophyllum xanadu The xanadu philodendron (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) is a type of tree philodendron with an upright growth habit that sets it apart from the vining types. Though it can grow tall with a substantial trunk, it will still behave as an epiphyte, clinging and climbing into any nearby trees, making it a secondary hemiepiphyte. The name “xanadu” conjures visions of an idyllic paradise, somewhere luxurious to escape to, and you better believe when I first heard of this particular philodendron, images of a plant befitting utopia filled my mind. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. And since my idea of heaven doesn’t involve fussy plants that never look healthy despite my best efforts, xanadu has a permanent home in my houseplant collection. In this guide, we’ll help you make your xanadu philodendron look as stately and dramatic as we all know they can. Here’s what we’re going to talk about to make that happen: Stately xanadu was originally called ‘Winterbourn.’ It was named for Veronica and Barry Winterbourn who patented the plant in 1988. As far as we know, it was first sold by an Australian Nursery, House of Plants, in 1983. It was patented in the United States under the name Xanadu™, but the patent has since expired. You’ll also see it sold under the name ‘Aussie.’ Or it might be misspelled as “Zanadu.” The history of the xanadu philodendron is wild. It’s like it appeared in commercial trade out of nowhere one day and everyone had a theory as to where it came from. Quick Look Common name(s): Xanadu philodendron Plant type: Epiphytic aroid Hardiness (USDA Zone): 9-11 (outdoors) Native to: Brazil Bloom time / season: Evergreen, flowers in spring Exposure: Partial, dappled shade; bright, indirect light Soil type: Loose, light, well draining Soil pH: 5.5-6.5, slightly acidic Time to maturity: 10 years Mature size: 5 ft wide x 5 ft high (depending on cultivar) Best uses: Hanging plant, houseplant, specimen Taxonomy Order: Alismatales Family: Araceae Genus: Thaumatophyllum Species: Xanadu Some botanists believed it was a cultivar, sport, or hybrid of the tree philodendron, Thaumatophyllum bipinnatifidum (syn. Philodendron bipinnatifidum). Others say it’s a recently discovered species from Australia. The latter are wrong, since it’s not a native species from Australia. We know that there aren’t any indigenous Philodendron or Thaumatophyllum species there. There are also gardeners who have been growing xanadu philodendrons from seed from plants collected from the wild in Brazil. Like other members of the Thaumatophyllum genus, it most likely originated in South America. In 2018, the Philodendron subgenus Meconostigma was reclassified as its own genus, Thaumatophyllum. This plant was assigned its own species: xanadu. Tree philodendrons (T. bipinnatifidum) and xanadu look extremely similar. Only experts and serious hobbyists can tell the difference. For example, the petioles of xanadu have a cupped, c-shape. On bipinnatifidum, they lack the cup. Large, deeply-lobed glossy green leaves emerge from a wide central stalk which can grow up to four feet tall. At maturity, the xanadu philodendrons will generally reach about five feet wide in cultivation. Wild specimens can reach almost double these dimensions. When grown as a houseplant it’ll generally stay a lot smaller unless you repot regularly into larger containers and provide lots of bright sunlight. In USDA Hardiness Zones 9 to 11 you can grow it outdoors and in spring it’ll bloom with a white spadix and spathe, followed by seeds in the summer. Indoors, the plant is unlikely to flower. Xanadu makes a versatile houseplant either in a small decorative pot to keep it petite or gracing a large entranceway in a sturdy urn. You can even grow it in a hanging container, where it looks super cool, though don’t expect it to weep. Fun fact: Xanadu is a color reference for an off-gray color on the RGB scale. It has a color coordinate of #738678, and it was named for this plant. There’s another tree philodendron known as ‘Xanadu-II’ which has larger and more deeply lobed leaves, but it has never gained the popularity of its parent. How to Grow Keeping xanadu happy is quite straightforward, provided you give it the conditions the plant requires. Let’s start with growing medium. Growing Medium Aroids like xanadu philodendron need a chunky, loose potting medium with water retentive properties. If you’re growing indoors in a pot, I’d recommend you purchase an aroid mix formulated for these types of plants. Molly’s Aroid Mix is a good choice. It’s made up of bark, coco coir, worm castings for nutrients, biochar, and clay pebbles. Molly’s Aroid Mix You can find five-quart bags available from Very Plants via Amazon. Or if you prefer to make your own, combine four parts orchid bark, two parts perlite, one part coconut coir, and one part worm castings. Outdoors, amend your soil with plenty of coconut coir and bark, so that it is loose and airy. You can also grow xanadu attached to a tree or other support. This is more difficult to do indoors because of the amount of space it requires. But if you want to go this route, attach the roots using twine or glue – or both. Then, affix sphagnum moss over the roots. You’ll need to keep the moss consistently moist at all times. Light Grow xanadu in bright, indirect light or morning sunlight. Direct sunlight isn’t necessarily a bad thing, so long as it isn’t for more than a few hours in the morning or some dappled light throughout the day. Providing plenty of light will help the xanadu philodendron grow large and bushy. Outdoors, a part-shade location works best. If you’re growing in a sunny spot, make sure you provide some protection during very hot periods. Water Keep the soil evenly moist at all times. It should consistently feel like a well-wrung-out sponge and should never be allowed to dry out. You should reduce the amount of water during the winter and allow the surface of the soil to dry out between watering. It’s hard to say how often you’ll need to water, since how quickly the soil dries out will vary with environmental conditions. Either use your finger or a moisture meter to check the soil every few days. Temperature and Humidity Xanadu likes it nice and warm. In their natural environment, they tend to thrive when the temperatures are in the low 80s. But they’ll be perfectly fine in temperatures that range from 65 to 90°F. You should avoid exposing your xanadu philodendron to anything below 60°F, though temperatures in the 50s for short periods are unlikely to do severe damage. It might kill off the foliage but the roots will likely survive so long as the temperatures return to normal fairly quickly. Xanadu grows in tropical rainforests so the plants are used to lots and lots of humidity. But they aren’t too fussy about the lower humidity found in most homes. If you can keep the humidity to about 50 percent, that’s perfect. If you need to raise humidity, you can always keep your plant in the kitchen or bathroom, or use a small humidifier. Fertilizing For vigorous growth, feed your plant once a week or every other week using a mild, balanced, or all-purpose food. If you’re looking for ideas, Arber makes a nice all-purpose option made out of chicken manure, biochar, and organic compost. It’s the product I use for all my aroids. Arber All Purpose Fertilizer You can pick up three-pound bags at Arbico Organics. Reduce feeding to once a month during the winter months. Where to Buy You can find xanadu at lots of different retailers because it’s such a popular plant. You’re not going to have to hunt too hard to find it. Xanadu Philodendron If you’d like to start with something small, snag a live plant in a one-quart container from Nature Hills Nursery. If you’d like something a bit older and larger, you can find a specimen in a 10-inch pot from the American Plant Exchange via Amazon. Maintenance Xanadu is a “self-heading” type, which is a term that philo lovers use to describe types with stiff, rigid stems that form a sort of trunk allowing the plant to grow upright rather than as a climbing or trailing variety like heartleaf or ‘Brasil.’ Left to their own devices, eventually they might become so large that they can’t support themselves. This is the point when, in the wild, they would attach themselves to a tree to continue their lifecycle. The lower leaves will shed naturally, leaving a bare stem. Pruning You don’t need to prune these plants unless any of the leaves die, become diseased or discolored, or there is a broken or deformed leaf you want to ditch. To do this, sanitize a pair of pruners in isopropyl alcohol, a 10 percent bleach solution, or hot soapy water and cut the leaf off at the base close to the stem. You can learn all the details about pruning philodendrons here. Repotting As the plant grows, you’ll need to repot it into a larger container. You’ll need to remove the original plant and brush away the soil before placing it in a new, larger container. Choose a pot just one size up from the existing one. Remove the plant from its container, and gently loosen up the roots and brush away the excess soil. Set the plant in the new container, and gently fill in around the roots with potting medium. Water, add more medium if it settles, and you’re good to go. Our guide to repotting tree philodendrons has more details. Propagation You can grow xanadu from seeds if you can gain access to them, but that’s a serious challenge. Instead, we’ll focus on the more commonly available options of taking stem cuttings, air layering, offsets, and transplanting a purchased plant. You can also separate offsets, but these don’t form and become viable for planting until the plant has developed a trunk. From Stem Cuttings To take a stem cutting, look for a healthy stem that is at least the diameter of your thumb and has several leaves. It should ideally have some aerial roots developing. Grab a pair of sterilized pruners and fill a four- to six-inch container with aroid potting mix. Cut a four- to six-inch length about an inch below a leaf or root node at a slight angle. Remove all but one leaf and dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Make a hole in the potting mix and insert the cutting an inch or two deep, enough that it can remain upright. Firm the soil up around it. Moisten the medium. Move the container to a spot with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil moist at all times while it roots. It will take a month or two, but eventually, the plant will start to grow new leaves and stems. That’s when you know your cutting has taken and roots are developing. By Air Layering Aroids develop aerial roots and we can harness these for propagation. Look for a branch with an aerial root node. Place a stick next to the branch you’re going to propagate. This will support the branch as it grows. Take some sphagnum moss and moisten it. Wrap this around the node and cover it in clear plastic. Secure this moss and plastic to the support stick using tape or twine. All you need to do now is keep the moss moist and wait for roots to develop. When you see a mass of roots forming in the moss, it’s ready to go. Remove the plastic cover and moss, and cut the plant just below the roots. Plant this in a new container or spot outside. The container should only be slightly larger than the root mass. From Offsets When the plant is mature and has developed a trunk, it will start to form offsets. These look different from newly-developing leaves, because they will have their own central stem and several small leaves. Offsets develop from the underground portion of the meristem. All you need to do is dig down with your fingers along the stem until you find the point where the offset joins the main stem. Take a knife or pruners and gently cut this away, taking any roots attached if you can. Plant the offset in its own small pot. Managing Pests and Disease Xanadu is one tough cookie. In a group of friends, this would be the one that never cries, walks it off when they break a bone, and can handle pretty much any challenge. Mealybugs, scale, and spider mites will all feed on xanadu philodendrons, but they usually won’t cause much damage. Yellowing foliage and some reduced growth are the main symptoms. Mealybugs and scale can resemble the symptoms of a disease, since these pests are fairly flat and they don’t move once they hunker in and start feeding. You might see fine webbing on the plant if spider mites are around, but the arachnids themselves are so tiny that they’re not really visible. Otherwise, root rot is your biggest concern. Root rot is a common problem for houseplant growers, in general. Learn about how to prevent, identify, and control root rot here. Welcome to Paradise If your own personal paradise involves lots of pretty tropical plants, you should absolutely include stately, elegant, eye-catching xanadu. Are you growing xanadu philodendrons? Let us know what you love about this plant in the comments section below. If you have a hankering to learn more about philodendrons, we have a few other guides to keep you busy. Check these out: © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Arbico Organics, Nature Hills Nursery, and Very Plants. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link
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