#AND 'VISE' IS THE ONE THAT MEANS 'CLAMP USED IN WOODWORKING'
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dullahandyke · 1 year ago
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fuck this lad im appealing my english paper, theyre marking me down on shit thats not even wrong..... h1 for eimear h1 for eimear!!!!
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dennyrenshaw · 5 years ago
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Guidelines To Buying Workbench And Also Hand-Tool Storage
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In my estimation, the workbench is the most basic and most crucial tool in a conventional carpentry job. It truly is challenging to establish furniture without a workbench that is superb to assemble. Whether you're intending to get your work-bench or intending to get it, it is essential to do some research and receive the features which will help you enjoy working together with hand tools. Some functions ought to really be crucial to everybody else, and a few features tend to be somewhat more a matter of preference.
What Functions to Look for in a Wood-working Workbench?
When you're searching for your very first workbench, which contains are all important to consider? Before jumping into the buyer's manual, I'll Explore a Few Important Characteristics to look for in a seat, and define a Number of these perplexing phrases:
Sturdiness And Effectiveness
One of the absolute most crucial qualities to start looking for in a workbench style and style is sturdiness and stability. Hand planing and sawing to a work-bench that is cheap and flimsy will get frustrating quickly because the work-bench moves and shakes round the place. Weight and sheer mass are normally the answer to get a workbench, together with structure with excellent joinery. A high in 34 inches thick will supply exactly the mass you need to you. Some special workbench designs offer sturdiness by means of style which permits you to get away using a gigantic slab top and a portable workbench.
Good Vises
Vises are all used to clamp your workpiece into the workbench therefore it's possible to plane, saw, or contour it in numerous means. Two conventional wooden vises (or metal vises with timber to shield your workpiece), will be enough to a traditional workbench. Traditional vises Moreorless fit right into two categories: (1 ) )"deal with Vises" which point towards the household furnishings maker to the face of the workbench, and (2)"Tail Vises" that can be attached with the end of the workbench. The different sorts of vises drop to these 2 categories. The sort of vises which you just choose certainly are a matter of private taste, so I would suggest that you just decide to try out different kinds of vises, when possible, to find exactly what you enjoy the most. A lot of the work-bench vises for the school were purchased from this corporation. Beneath is a primer in traditional carpentry work-bench vises, find out more.
Legs Flush With The Top
A good deal of cheaper industrial workbenches have popped up having a workbench top that overhangs the legs. As you wont have the ability to clamp a lengthy board or doorway in the vise and clamp the end of it against your 32, this will result in frustration. Thus just make certain that the legs are flush with the front part of the best.
Proper Top, Length, And Width
The size of a conventional workbench may be a matter of taste. But a seat much is overly large. My workbench is above 6 feet extended, also I felt that it's too short, although I like using a work-bench as it permits me to work on longer pieces. However, 6-foot workbenches are rather magical. Simply consider the space you have to get a workbench and let that be your determining variable.
Building your own workbench can surely look overwhelming for fresh woodworkers, but by means of the right aid it can be a very incredible job for beginners, and also may also teach you how lots of principles concerning traditional woodworking.
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staywithbeanz-blog · 5 years ago
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How to Use a Dremel Tool?
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Dremel tool is a very necessary and important power-tool.
If you have ever been to a woodworking shop or a metal shop, you must have seen a dremel tool. Many people use it in their house to do some small works.
Dremel tool comes with a variety of accessories and attachments. These accessories allow the tool to do a lot of works.
In this article I am going to tell you about the process of using a dremel tool.
 How you Can Use a Dremel Tool?
Dremel tool is mostly known for arts and crafts related works. This tool is also very helpful for wood, metal, glass, electronics, and plastic related works.
This rotary tool is essential for many home-related small works.
The learning the procedure of using a dremel tool can be divided into two parts:
Learning the basics
Cutting with dremel.
In the following article, we are going to discuss both processes.
 Learning the basics
 Choosing your dremel
There are various kind of dremel tools available in the market. At first, you need to choose one of those according to your requirements.
You can choose between some basic features. You can choose between cordless and fixed feature. Buy a dremel tool which is light in weight. It will help you to control the tool in a better way.
If you choose to buy a cordless tool, then make sure the battery life is much longer. So, you will be able to work for longer.
Choose a tool which has variable speed trigger. Sometimes you need high speed and sometimes high. This trigger will help you to control the speed.
 Read owner’s manual
Before using the tool, read the owner’s manual very well. It will help you to understand the specification and use of the tool.
It will also help you to know, for which works this tool is best.
 Wear safety gears
Don’t forget to wear your safety gears while using the tool. Always wear rubber gloves and glasses to protect your hands and eyes. You can also use earplugs to protect your ears from the sound that produces during the cut.
 Practice inserting and removing bits and attachments
There are various type of bits and attachments come with the rotary tool. You can do various works with those.
Each of the bits and attachments are for different works. You need to change the bits or attachments while you switch between works.
Press down the shaft lock to unlock the attachment. Then just put the bit or attachment in place and lock it to the tool.
 Choose the right bit for the job
If you use a plastic cutting blade to cut wood, then the blade and the tool both will get damage. So, it’s important to use the right bit or blade for the right job.
When you are carving or engraving, you should use the high-speed cutter, engraving cutter, carbide cutter or diamond coated cutter blades to make a perfect cut.
Router bits are perfect for routing type works.
When you are going to drill, drill bits are the best option you have.
So, choose the blades according to your work to work properly and keep your blade and tool safe.
 Clean the tool after every use
It is very important to keep your tool clean and dust-free. Keeping the rotary tool clean will increase the tool life.
So, clean your tool and blades after every time you use the tool.
  Cutting with the dremel
 Use your dremel tool for small cuts and detailing
This tool is so light in weight which makes it very easy to handle. Easy handling and well control helps you to make small detailing in little cuts also.
You can hold the tool like a pen sometimes to get better control over the tool. It’s easy to make very little cuts in this process.
With sanding bit, you can also make the edges look finer.
 Secure the object
When you are cutting material with this rotary tool, never hold the material with your hand. It may cause uneven cuts and can cause accidents.
So, hold the cutting material with a clamp or vise.
 Cut at the appropriate speed
You cannot cut each material in the same speed and too high or too slow speed can damage your tool and the cutting material.
When cutting a thicker material, make several small cuts. It will ease your cut. If the material is too thick, use a reciprocating saw instead of dremel.
When you can see smoke or discoloration of the cutting material, itb means you are going with very high speed. Immediately decrease the speed.
If you hear the motor sound is dropping, that means you are pressing the tool very hard on the material.
So, don’t go too high or too low with your rotary tool.
 Try cutting plastic
While you are cutting plastic, use a flat saw blade. It will make the cut easy and smooth.
Keep the tool speed between 4 to 8.
If there are any uneven edges, you can sand the edges to make it perfect.
 Cutting metal
You can also cut metals with your dremel tool. Keep the tool speed between 8 to 10 while cutting metals.
Just wait until your tool gets to the maximum speed and then go for the cut. Diamond blades are best to cut metals.
 Grinding
You can also grind with this tool. You can use grinding stones, wheels, chainsaw sharpening stones, abrasive wheel to grind objects.
 Sharpening or sanding
There are two more useful tasks that you can do with this tool is, sharpening and sanding.
There is various size of sanding drums available with this tool. You can sand any uneven edges with these sanding drums.
You can also sharpen any metal objects with this tool. Active sand drums can help you in this sharpening process.
 Polish metal
Polishing metals is a good way to look the metal attractive. Dremel tool can also polish metal objects. You can easily do it with polishing tip or wheel.
Polishing should start at a slower speed. Slowly increase the pace and continue when it reaches a medium level. This will make the metal shinier.
 Conclusion
To get the best result from any tool, you have to know properly about using that tool. Dremel is a tool used is useful for various works. Know the proper application of the variety of equipment and attachments come with this tool. After that apply that knowledge to make the best use of the tool. I hope, this article will help you to use the tool properly.
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ajaytoolsindia · 3 years ago
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Use of Bench Vise, Forge Vise, Table vice, Woodworking Vice and Bucket Grease Pump.
Bench Vice
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A bench vise is a type of vise that is mounted on a workbench. It is typically used for holding large pieces of wood in place when they are being worked by hand tools. A forge vise can be used for clamping metal objects to the anvil. Table vises are generally smaller than bench vises and are often mounted on a table or desk.
Bench vises are often used by woodworkers or cabinetmakers who need to hold material while they work on it with hand tools such as saws, planes, and chisels. The jaws of the bench vise typically consist of two heavy metal plates that can be tightened against one another using a lever or screw mechanism.
Forge Vice
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Forge vises are often larger and heavier than bench vises and are usually only
A bench vise is a tool that is used to hold an object in place. It can be used to hold the object in place firmly, or it can be used to create a clamping pressure.
The bench vise has been around for centuries and is one of the most useful tools for any metalworker. The first known mention of a bench vise was in 1770. This tool has been around since then and will continue to be an essential part of metalworking.
Table Vice
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A table vice is a small and portable device which can be quickly clamped to any convenient work surface. It is used by craftsmen, engineers, hobbyists and many other people for clamping two or more pieces of material together to hold them firmly in place.
Table vises are a type of hand-operated clamping tool that is used for holding objects in place. They are made from metal or wood and have jaws that can be opened and closed by the use of a lever or screw mechanism. The most common use of table vises is when doing woodworking projects such as furniture making, cabinetmaking, and construction work. They are also often used for assembling sheet materials such as plywood into larger composite structures.
Woodworking Vice
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A woodworking vise, according to its dictionary definition, consists of two jaws for holding work and a mechanism.
The word 'vice' is derived from the Latin word 'viscus', which means 'jaw'. In other words, a vice is a mechanical clamp that can hold something in place.
Grease Bucket Pump
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Grease bucket pumps are designed to be used in applications that require large volume of lubrication. They are typically used in large industrial settings where grease and oil is needed.
Grease bucket pumps are often used in industrial settings. A grease bucket pump has a container (bucket) at the bottom that contains the lubricant. The pump forces the lubricant up and out through a tube, which is connected to a nozzle and then into the machine requiring lubrication.
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handtoolsimge043-blog · 5 years ago
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3 Simple Techniques For Hand Power Tools
device perfectionist who values the innate feeling and complete high quality of people-powered tools or a person that uses hand devices just for the touch-ups that are tough to complete with a device, Rockler has the hand tools to suit your needs. We stock whatever from hand saws for tearing, crosscutting and cutting dead-on joinery to blades for tidying up dovetails and truing mortises and tenons to bench aircrafts for smoothing table tops.
For carvers with an eye for contours, sculpture and also three-dimensional surface areas, we stock a huge variety of wood sculpting devices, from chip-carving blades to palm sculpting devices. We've got draw blades, as well. Required to make an image structure? We have actually got the right devices to assist you cut exact miters, hold them firmly as well as secure them securely.
Deagreez/ Getty Images The irreplaceable constantly dependable device that provides numerous variations however all offer an usual function. The hand saw is the one preferred by traditional carpenters as they can manage the cut while generating a great surface. Because this device has lots of variants, the hand saw is always a helpful tool to have with you.
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Hand saws are not a substitute for power saws, however being the most simple one, it is helpful, not optional, to have. If you can, having a power saw is a terrific idea, and also a cordless one is even better.
A wood workbench has constantly been the facility of a traditional woodworker's workshop. If you're really on a tight budget plan you can obtain away with nearly anything that allows you to secure your wood in position for planing as well as sawing, and make use of clamps to safeguard your workpiece. However, I would certainly suggest that you either develop a wood workbench, or acquisition one if you feel a workbench develop is too advanced for you today.
See This Report on Hand Tools
You can acquire it in my store here. You can discover Will's free workbench plans for the Moravian Workbench below. Whichever course you choose, make certain you choose to either develop or purchase a heavy & durable wooden workbench, with a minimum of a 3 solid top, solid supportive base legs, and also at least one solid vise.
airplanes that are made use of so often that they are generally on your workbench). If you're on a spending plan a jack airplane can temporarily be used instead of other airplanes that execute specialized functions: harsh supply elimination (if you get a 2nd iron/blade and shape it with a bent "camber"), jointing board edges (as long as the board isn't http://www.thefreedictionary.com/Traditional, manual tools for carpentry and woodworking over 3x the length of your jack plane), and smoothing the boards.
Block airplanes have become one of the most oft-used devices in a woodworker's workshop. Some standard woodworkers also maintain them in their aprons! These little aircrafts can be utilized to cut your joints, placed chamfers on board edges, trim end grain, etc. I would advise locating a low angle block aircraft, since the reduced angle allows you cut tough grain a lot more quickly.
Handsaws (frequently called "panel saws") are long, thin saws with a comfy wood handle. They are made use of for rough dimensioning of your lumber. Although a "panel saw" is technically a smaller handsaw that suits the panel of a tool upper body, I'll hereafter describe this sort of saw as a "Panel Saw" to differentiate them from the wide group referred to as "hand saws".
You will certainly require both. Panel saws can be rather budget-friendly (typically just $5 a piece), but you need to understand what you're seeking as well as be willing to spend a long time learning to develop hand saws. My hand saw getting guide will help you know which brands & models to look out for at your local flea markets or on ebay.com.
Getting My Wood Hand Tools To Work
The thin steel saw plates are made tight with steel or brass "backs" that leave the top of the saw plate. If you're on a limited budget plan, you can obtain by with just a dovetail saw for awhile. But if you have the means, after that I 'd advise that you purchase three backsaws: a dovetail saw, with fine rip teeth, used for reducing joinery along the grain (like syncs), a "carcass saw" used for crossing the grain (penalty cross cut teeth), and a larger tenon saw used for reducing much deeper cuts, like tenon cheeks, along the grain (slit teeth).
As stated above, you could certainly obtain by with just a dovetail saw at first, considering that the little slit teeth do not do regrettable of a job at cutting throughout the grain. Purchasing backsaws can be extremely complex since many vendors do not understand what saw they have, and also the tooth configuration can change the task of the saw.
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The smart Trick of Woodworking Tools For Beginners That Nobody is Talking About
My customer's overview truly removes this confusion up and will help you recognize what to search for. A great miter box & miter saw (a huge backsaw) will certainly allow you to reduce your timber to really exact lengths, at precise angles. This will specifically save you a lot of time in attempting to settle your board finishes.
The frame's angles can be transformed to allow you to reduce best miter joints (the joint made use of for picture structures) and numerous various other joints. I utilize my miter saw on a regular basis. I've purchased them used for just $15, but anticipate to pay even more than that. The actual cost effective coping saw (typically under $20) is consistently utilized for rough cutting forms in the board, yet particularly for eliminating waste from dovetail joints (among one of the most typical timber joints).
Review my hand saw buying overview for even more information on brands & features to search for when acquiring a coping saw. I use chisels perhaps a lot more than any kind of various other device in my workshop, so it's a great idea to not economical out right here. A premium quality set of bevel side bench knives (brand-new or vintage) will last you numerous years (most likely your entire life) and will certainly be used on almost every task.
3 Easy Facts About Tool Online Shown
An excellent collection of 5-7 bench chisels (they do not need to match) will obtain you going as soon as possible. In the future you'll at some point add some specialty chisels (like paring knives, fishtail knives, etc) however bench chisels will certainly work for simply about every little thing. I commonly pay only $10 for high quality vintage knives, so a put together collection can certainly be economical, and also greater quality than reduced high quality new collections.
To begin off you only require either a 1/4-inch or 3/8-inch mortise chisel (or some size near those). I favor 3/8-inch. You do not need a whole collection of mortise knives. Mortise chisels (also led to "mortice chisels") are made use of for chopping mortises (rectangle-shaped openings) into the side of your board to accept the insertion of a tenon.
I prefer the English design "pig sticker" mortise chisels due to their stamina, weight, and the feel of the oval handle. My carve acquiring overview shows where to locate these chisels and what to seek when purchasing them. A great and precise 6-inch mix square is used for a כלי מדידה lot of jobs in my workshop, consisting of examining the squareness of boards (when planing them to final measurement), scribing dovetail joints, measuring the deepness of mortises, and much, a lot more.
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agilenano · 5 years ago
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Agilenano - News: Because your home is now your workplace, gym, coffee shop, and primary care facility, you’ll need to keep it in good working order.
Under normal circumstances, “honey-do” lists and “weekend warrior” projects often get pushed aside by the daily grind. But in this bizarre new pandemic reality, that grind has ground to a halt. If there’s an upside, it’s that you have both time and incentive to knock out some of those around-the-house chores you may have put off. We spoke to a project manager and lead carpenter with a home remodeling business to find out what projects anyone can do to keep their homes in tip-top shape. And don’t worry if DYI isn’t your thing. Not only are these 11 tips easy for most anyone, but we even included a simple list of beginner tools to help build an essential toolkit you can be proud of. 11 Easy & Essential Home Maintenance Projects We spoke with John Wagner, a partner and project manager at the Twin Cities-based Waxwing Woodworking Inc. He identified 11 projects every homeowner should do to keep their house running efficiently and safely. And if you’re a renter, you can still check these things and let your landlord know. And while Wagner said you could easily get all these done during these social distancing mandates — some take as little as 30 seconds — at the very least, you could use this time to check all the items and make a plan for the next couple months. 1. Change your home air filter Filters should be changed monthly, and you should always have a spare one on hand. If you don’t, check the filter size and head on down to your friendly neighborhood filter (hardware/home improvement) store and pick up a bulk pack. Unless you have acute sensitivities to specific particulates, a filter with a “MERV” rating of 5 to 8 will be fine. A higher MERV rating will trap finer particles, but at some cost to the efficiency of your furnace. If you’re not sure what filter to use with your system, check the service manual or give a local heating contractor a call. Once you have the new filter, remove the old one and replace it, taking care to orient the filter for the direction of airflow. If you don’t have the size of the filter and direction of airflow written on your filter cover, now’s a good time to bust out the marker and get that done. 2. Clean gutters, check downspouts Take a walk around the perimeter of your house and check your gutters and downspouts. If you didn’t clean your gutters after the leaves fell last year, get to work. But don’t just leave that crap on the ground! (More on that later.) Downspouts should extend a minimum of 5 feet from the foundation to keep water from working its way into your basement. If you have a finished basement, a nice, long downspout could wind up saving you a ton of money. Most basement moisture problems arise from bulk water intrusion caused by bad slope and drainage. If your soil doesn’t slope away from your house (6 inches over 10 feet), that’s a major issue to address. Quick note: If you live in a cold climate, you should have a dehumidifier running from spring through fall (especially if you have a finished basement). 3. Prep garden, remove yard matter near your house Once you’ve thrown all your gutter goo onto the ground, pick it up. Rake up the old, decaying stuff from around the house so that soil isn’t building up against the house. If you put mulch around the house, it’s good to maintain 6 inches of clearance below the siding, especially if your siding material is a wood or wood composite. Personally, I like a 12- to 18-inch bed of crushed rock or gravel between the foundation and plants. That buffer will help prevent moisture and pests from working into the house. Plus, this is also a great time to plan for your vegetable garden. If the soil has thawed enough where you are, mix in some compost, and you’ll be ready to plant when the weather allows. Finally, now’s a great time for tree trimming. If you’re up to it and can do it safely, trim away dead or decaying branches and manage the growth of fruit trees. The University of Minnesota Extension has excellent resources for managing trees and gardening. 4. Clean air-conditioning coils First, you’ll want to clear away any plant growth around the condenser. Hook up your hose and decide how clean you want the condenser. You can either take the cover off (be sure to flip the breaker off inside) and clean from the inside out, or you can spray from the outside with the cover still on. Either way, spray at a downward angle until clean. If you’ve removed the cover to clean, you should be really proud of yourself — unless you damage the thin aluminum fins by folding them over. 5. Vacuum refrigerator coils Carefully walk out your refrigerator and start suckin’! Pull off the cover on the front that overlaps the wheels and vacuum that out. At the back of the fridge, vacuum the coils and motor. (No need to look behind the fridge, there’s definitely nothing there. Nope.) Just slide the fridge back. Be sure the fridge has an inch or so of clearance above it to allow warm air to escape. 6. Check siding for holes or other entrances for vermin, seal them If you had any winter guests this year, now’s a good time to check around the house to see how they got in. Start by following #3 above. Then, check for holes in the siding, gaps below the last course of siding (could be loose bricks or cracked stucco), or gaps that might have formed in your soffits. You can fix most means of ingress with better landscaping, steel wool, a good-quality caulk, or spray foam. Now, if you had squirrels or raccoons get into your attic through holes in your soffit or fascia, you might want to call a contractor. 7. Summerize snowblower, prep lawnmower for season If you’re not expecting more snow, get your snowblower ready to hibernate. Remove the fuel that’s in it and empty the fuel into a safe storage container (you can dump the fuel from the snowblower into your gas can). Don’t be a jerk neighbor and run your snowblower for 2 hours to burn off the fuel. Also, get some fuel stabilizer and pour that into your gas can before filling it up with gas. Next, clean up your snowblower. Lubricate any parts that move, pull the spark plug, and get a bit of oil worked through the motor by pulling the cord a couple of times. You might as well check to see if your augur blade is worn down or damaged; the same goes for the scraper blade. As for the lawnmower, if it ran well the year before, you should be able to fuel it up and get it going. If not, it’s generally a simple procedure to pull and clean the carburetor, replace the spark plug, and complete an oil change. Now, if you’re feeling frisky, you can check and sharpen the mower blade. Disconnect the spark plug, flip the mower, and remove the blade (you’ll need a wrench). Clamp the blade in a vise or clamp it to a sturdy table. With an angle grinder and a sanding pad, give the blade a few passes at a 30-degree angle. If you’re left with a rough burr on the back side of the edge, knock it off with a few passes of a file. If you don’t have an angle grinder, you can use a sharpening stone or a file, but it takes much longer. 8. Check washing machine filter, clean dryer vent This one is pretty straightforward. First, check your washer’s manual on how to clean the filter. It will probably say something smug, like, “Clean this filter monthly.” But there’s another inlet filter that’s also super easy to clean. Turn off the water supply, disconnect the hose, and remove any particulates. This is an especially important task if you have older, galvanized supply lines in your home. Cleaning the dryer vent is super important, too. First of all, your vent should be a rigid pipe, and the joints should be lapped so that lint isn’t accumulating at the edges. Disconnect the pipe from the dryer (just pull, and you might have to cut some tape) and check the vent on the dryer. Clear or dirty? Any toys in there? Next, take a look into the pipe. Slide a vacuum hose up there with a brush attachment. Now, head outside to the dryer’s exhaust port. On the outside of the house, check to see if the damper closes smoothly or if lint has accumulated there and was letting freezing-cold air into your house all winter. Clean it. Reattach the pipe and re-tape those joints with a quality foil tape. If you have a flexible vent pipe, switch to a rigid pipe. Rigid pipe will vent more efficiently, trap less lint, and is overall safer. 9. Check carbon monoxide and smoke detectors Test ‘em all! Change the batteries. If any of the units are old, replace them. Many new units come with sealed batteries and are good for 10 years. You should have a minimum of one smoke and one carbon monoxide (CO) detector on each floor, a smoke detector inside and outside of each bedroom, and a CO detector within 10 feet of each bedroom and sleeping area. 10. Upgrade your thermostat Get and install a smart thermostat. Personally, I like the ecobee. Chances are that your energy provider offers some kind of rebate, which will offset some of the initial cost. It proved super easy to install in my home, even though I didn’t have a C-wire. The savings started immediately, the unit is super intuitive and functional, it looks nice, and the sensors prioritize heating and cooling occupied spaces. Why do it? Because a super-easy way to save money and energy, as well as limit emissions, is to not be such an energy hog. Sign up for off-peak energy and adjust your thermostat settings so that your house is 65 degrees in the winter and 76 degrees in the summer. Some people may require different temps for health reasons, but your house doesn’t have to be 70 degrees all year ’round. 11. Check water heater The more adventurous among you may want to try a little water heater maintenance. Three things to do here: Check the pressure relief valve, check/replace the sacrificial anode, and flush the water heater. Testing the pressure relief valve will get a bit of scalding-hot water on the floor. So wear sturdy shoes. This one is better to watch — I recommend the trove of good info on the This Old House channel on YouTube. This is really a show, don’t tell fix. Check out some of the channel’s videos below. Temperature and pressure relief valve: Sacrificial anode: Flush water heater: Bonus: Start a home savings account The best way to save money is to actively save money. So if you have the luxury right now, you could start a savings account for your home. A good rule of thumb is to save 1.5-2% of your home’s value every year. If some of the systems in the house aren’t in great shape or are older, save a little more. For some perspective, a full replacement of a forced-air furnace and AC condenser can easily run up to $10,000 or more. Basic Toolkit for Home Maintenance To tackle most home improvement projects, you’ll need some rudimentary tools. Here’s a list of tools you should have on hand to tackle common DIY tasks: Home DIY Toolkit Hammer Phillips, flathead, or interchangeable-head screwdrivers Electric drill with bit kit and driver bits Tape measure Utility knife Pliers Adjustable wrench Small handsaw Voltage detector Wire nuts Wire cutters Safety glasses and ear protection Level (32″) Electrical, Teflon, duct, and painter’s tape Allen keys Small socket set Small pry bar Rags Pencils, sharpies The post 11 Simple Home Projects to Bang Out During Quarantine appeared first on GearJunkie. #Coronavirus #Lifestyle
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Agilenano - News from Agilenano from shopsnetwork (4 sites) https://agilenano.com/blogs/news/because-your-home-is-now-your-workplace-gym-coffee-shop-and-primary-care-facility-you-ll-need-to-keep-it-in-good-working-order-1
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thecoroutfitters · 5 years ago
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Written by Pat Henry on The Prepper Journal.
Editor’s Note: The following review was written and submitted by Prepper Journal associate Hans Brix. Images courtesy of the author.
For AR-15 lovers, we live in a golden age of price and availability. You can buy good quality, fully assembled lowers for $130, and stripped receivers in the $40 range. Given the multitude of manufacturers of $200 parts kits and $500 complete rifles AR-15s, why would anyone go to the trouble of ordering and milling an 80% lower? Because you can.
The handyman can
I am one of the first to admit that when God was handing out the Handyman gene, I was skipped. The only things I’ve been successful at working on have been firearms and guitars. I’ve assembled several AR-15 rifles from parts kits and a stripped receiver. I’ve added or polished up safeties and sears in several handguns, installed and sighted-in rifle scopes and installed aftermarket triggers and sights on Glocks and 1911 handguns. But a gunsmith I am not. In fact, I have an old “Lemon-squeezer” style revolver I took apart and can’t get it back together right. There’s a limit to my skills.
Drilling the pilot hole
I’d read about the whole 80% lower ‘market’, but never really investigated it since AR receivers are affordable and trepidation with my aforementioned lack of skills. So, when 5D Tactical asked if I’d like to review their new router jig, I thought it would be a fun and interesting project.
The jig is up!
Nevertheless, finishing an 80% AR lower couldn’t have been easier with 5D Tactical’s new AR15 Router Jig Pro. It was so straightforward, I’d say that if you can follow instructions and wind up with a receiver that doesn’t work, you didn’t actually follow the instructions.
When the package from 5D Tactical arrived, it contained the jig, several drill bits, and two specially designed end-mills for the included Rigid router and an 80% lower blank. The instruction manual straight forward and has images to demonstrate how to use the jig. 
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Adjusting the bit depth
Nevertheless, I was still worried. I didn’t do well in my junior high school woodworking class and had never run a mill or router before. The closest I’d gotten was Dremel tool I used for smoothing the finger grooves of my Glock Gen 3 frame. I didn’t want to mess up the project.
The folks at 5D Tactical were able to talk me off the ledge and assure me I could do it. “Just go slow, pay attention to what you’re doing, and make sure you use sufficient WD-40 or thread cutting oil. You should be able to get 4-5 receivers completed per end-mill.”
Milling the 80% receiver blank
Armed with that knowledge, I headed to a friend’s shop; the prospect of having aluminum chips all over my garage meant doing at home wasn’t likely, even though it was way more convenient. This wound up being a good decision, because it wound up way messier than I expected.
RTFM!
After laying out the part on the bench, I read the instructions and assembled the jig around my receiver. It’s very straightforward and intuitive, especially if you’re familiar with AR receivers. Once assembled, I went to install the end mill and router base plate to the router.
Here was where I stumbled. Due to the variety of routers available, the instructions didn’t contain any information on HOW to install the endmill and baseplate, and since I’d never used a router before, I had no frame of reference from which to draw. I went to 5D’s website on my phone, since I had no computer and a sketchy LTE connection.
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Milling the 80% receiver blank
Their website shows several different end mills available based on the router you have. It’s possible, therefore, to purchase the wrong mill for your router if you don’t pay attention or, like me, know what you’re doing. Since 5D had supplied both the router and endmill, that possible error was eliminated, but it’s something to pay attention to before ordering.
Thankfully, my friend had experience using routers, so he watched to make sure I was installing things correctly. In looking things over, I guessed I needed to remove the plastic router base plate then install the 5D baseplate, using the supplied screws. I almost installed the baseplate incorrectly; the cutout should face the opening in the router closest to you, as you can view the milling process in that gap. This was the biggest issue I faced during setup.
Since sitting down to write this article, I discovered a whole page of instructions, including assembly video and router endmill installation guide, at 5D’s website. I just wish I’d looked over the website sooner, as it would have saved me some grief.
Taking care of business
Once everything was put together, I clamped the jig into the vise. Using the supplied 5/32” drill bit, I took the cordless drill to it after a few drops of thread cutting oil. The drill powered through it easily, just make sure to use an oil/lube. Once that was done, it was time to mill.
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Drilling the hammer & trigger pin holes
Making sure I used the shortest pins, I adjusted the depth to match the guidelines on the jig depth adjustment guides. There is a total of 21 passes you’ll need to make, from the very first cut after drilling the pilot hole, to the 21st that cuts the trigger hole.
Adjustments are in small increments (I don’t know the spacing/depth) for a reason. I didn’t have reading glasses handy, so it was difficult to see if I was lined up with the depth markings, meaning a few times I went over…maybe 1.5-2 lines instead of one line.  That doesn’t sound like a lot, but it was VERY noticeable when milling, as the bit cut more slowly and started to chatter. I was able to get through those cuts by going more slowly than I had when I made correct adjustment. After a couple of times having that happen, I made sure to err on the side of slightly less adjustment. While it might have taken longer overall by needing to make more cuts, each cutting step was much easier and eliminated all chatter when I went shallower.
After the milling was finished, I got the cordless drill and the other two drill bits and, using some cutting oil and the bushed guide holes in the jig, drilled the safety selector hole and the hammer and trigger pin holes. The drill bit for the safety selector is long enough to go through both sides, but the trigger and hammer pins needed to be drilled from each side. 
Finishing touches
After about an hour, I was finished. We blew away the excess chips, wiped off the cutting oil and admired my handiwork. Then we pulled out the parts bin and completed my lower assembly. All the internals fit great, and the holes for the safety and trigger assembly pins lined up perfectly. We then grabbed some ammo and a couple of uppers and went shooting. My new lower worked flawlessly. 
Finished & assembled receiver
My friend had several 80% lowers he wanted to finish, so I left the jig with him after I went home. He reported an issue with drilling the plunge hole. Either I had used too much pressure or..something…he said the bit I left looked warped and wouldn’t cut at all. He used one of his own bits and said it worked fine and cannot explain what happened. But on subsequent receivers, he had the same issue with his bit.
For the next two receivers he wound up NOT drilling the plunge hole, and said he got through the process fine. He told me he held router tilted back at an angle, and once the mill was up to speed, would slowly lower it to create the first cut for that depth. When he got to the third step, he made sure to be extra careful so he didn’t mess up the trigger hole. He assembled the three receivers and they worked fine.
Something borrowed, something blue
Router Jig Pro (L) and original (r)
Interestingly, he has the original 5D Tactical jig and likes new jig much better: 
The bushings for the safety selector and trigger/hammer pins in the Pro jig made drilling those holes much easier, since he didn’t have to worry as much about damaging the base blocks when drilling them.  
The larger and heavier support bases were easier to clamp and more secure.
The support for the receiver extension tube ‘ring’ is much easier to attach, is more secure, and has the vacuum attachment.
Overall, I learned a lot doing this project. Given how affordable complete receivers are, I’m not sure it makes sense from a cost-saving standpoint. But that’s not why a lot of people do this. I asked my friend why he likes doing his 80% receivers so much, when finished lowers are so affordable.
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Router Jig Pro mounting blocks (R) vs Original (L)
“First, because I can, and I like building things. Also, there may come a day when AR15 rifles are harder to own,” he said. “Having a pile of these finished, or waiting to be finished, is my way of making sure they’ll be available to me. So, paying a little more for an 80% receiver that isn’t in any database is, if you will, a Freedom Tax.”
I can support that.
Lessons learned
Make sure the end-mill is in the pilot hole and has spun up completely to full speed before starting cuts. It’s less likely to jump or walk (I only did this once).
Take your time. When I tried to go faster than I probably should have, the mill would start chattering, even on ‘shallow’ cuts. You don’t have to go at a snail’s pace, but don’t try and do a complete pass in 10 seconds. 
Wear long sleeves – even though they’re aluminum chips, they’re hot when they come off the mill.
Wear a shop apron – this saved me from getting completely covered in chips.
The shop vacuum attachment mostly works – I used the vacuum attachment, and while it mitigated some of the chip flying, especially for the first few passes in guide #1, the mill still tossed ships all over the place, and there were piles of chips on the vise and bench. As the cuts deepened, a lot of chips stayed in the receiver.
Finally, I’d like to thank the folks at 5D Tactical for reaching out and supplying the equipment needed to make this work, without any preconditions. All they asked for was an honest review. 
As a courtesy, I provided them a copy of this review beforehand in order to ensure I hadn’t made any missteps during the process but was clear I wouldn’t change my opinion. I questioned the increased number of depth-adjustment hashmarks in the jig I got versus the jig in the video, and they told me they increased the number in order to make shallower passes and extend the life of the endmill, meaning more lowers per bit.
If you’ve ever had a thought about finishing 80% AR-15 receivers, let me assure you, if I can do it, anyone can. And you can’t go wrong with 5D Tactical’s AR-15 jig.
The post Reviewing the 5D Tactical AR Router Jig Pro appeared first on The Prepper Journal.
from The Prepper Journal Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies? #SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag
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asiginaak · 7 years ago
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Why Is sheds So Famous?
I guess many people have tried constructing something from scratch with out an in depth plan, I Hardware (simply click the up coming webpage) certainly have. And how did that work out for you? I often find yourself with a fairly good job, you already know, it really works and it looks okay. But I don't often get it proper first time, which means I've wasted hours checking measurements and redrawing my "plans" or ought to I say doodles. And boy is it annoying when you cut a bit of wood after which find it is too brief. I do know, "measure twice cut as soon as", however when your plans unsuitable in the primary place that doesn't assist. So sometimes I've gotten a e book from the library or purchased a magazine with a plan in it.
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ronaldbosieyiii · 6 years ago
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Installing Shop Fans – Big Ass Fans
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With it coming up on the holidays, things are winding down for me in the shop. I’ll be taking off a little bit of time to regroup from my extremely busy year and spend time with family…..It occurred to me earlier today that I built a 4,000 sqft shop this year, which is just incredable. It seems like it was so long ago. 2018 has been outstanding and I hope you’ve enjoyed coming along with me this year as I tackled a large assortment of projects. I wish you all a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. But one last video for the year. As I was looking through footage I realized I installed fans earlier this summer in the shop but never released the video covering the process. So lets jump into it. 
Fans I installed:
Big Ass Fans
Haiku Big Ass Fans
I installed two different kinds, inside the shop I installed a giant Big Ass Fan in the center of my woodworking space and four smaller Hakui fans on the covered porch.
If you aren’t familiar with the Big Ass Fan brand, they make crazy efficient and stunning looking equipment. If you watched the shop build you’ll remember that I installed their lights. Since I wanted to place this 7’ diameter fan in the center of my woodworking space, I first started by taking out the light that marked center of my ceiling then also removing a few ceiling panels where the fan would need to go. 
This size of fan requires a mount to be fabricated that will span across the bottom cord of two trusses which is why I’m having to take down the ceiling panels to expose the bones. If you don’t want or require such a large fan there are models that will allow you to attach the fan to one truss which would mean you wouldn’t have to expose the trusses. 
I fabricated my mount from two pieces of angle iron backed up to one another. I first cut them to the length needed to span two trusses then joined them together by drilling a hole dead center for a nut and bolt, using my Triton Super Jaws and a pair of vise grips to hold them in place for me. I repeated the steps in order to make two brackets at the same time. 
After getting those punched I moved the pieces down to the ground, separated them, and drilled two holes on the flat portion that will be sitting on the truss.
With those together now I grabbed the hardware that will attach to these mounts in order to hang the fan from. I positioned it in center and marked the location of the holes that needed to be drilled out. When punching through metal I always work up to the final size hole if it’s somewhat large. So for these I start off with punching a 1/4” hole, then step up to the final 1/2” size which is the bolt I’m using. 
Once I got those tighter I ran the wiring through the center tube for the electrical bits then dropped that down in the center of the mount. Now it was ready to set into place. To keep it from moving I temporarily clamped it in place while I crawled up top and attached it with lags to the bottom cord of the trusses. 
Something I really love about this fan is the wall mounted remote, it’s more of a speed indicator as it not only turns the fan off and on but also dictates how fast or slow it spins.
I didn’t want to run the wiring on the outside of my ceiling material so that meant I had to crawl up into the attic….let me remind you this during the heat of summer!….and get into the tiny tiny point on the far side of the roof in order to feed down the wire to Brian. My recommendation is if you are building a shop, even if you don’t install fans at the start, leave yourself a wire from where you’ll eventually want the controller to the placement of the fan. Just coil it up and leave it in the attic so you don’t have to do all this crawling around. 
Alright, next up was mounting the motor into place, which might take two people because it’s pretty heavy.
Next up was mounting the airfoils. These do come in different diameters but mine are 3’ long, which including the center hub span, makes this fan 7’ total. And let me tell you….it’s crazy how much air this fan can move, and also how still and quiet it is. Even when I crank it up all the way you don’t hear any sounds from it other than the air itself moving.
And that’s it for the installation part of the big fan, so next was throwing back up the ceiling panels that were taken down earlier. To get around the fan’s stem I used a rotary tool to make a cut around it. 
While I was mounting fans, next I moved to the porch. I love working on my covered shop porch when the weather is nice enough so having the option to get some moving air out there was a must for me. For this area I’m going with a smaller Big Ass Fan called Haniku. These fans have over 1000 options for finishing combinations but I went with Carmel and Black to match the cedar beams I have on the porch. 
These fans are ultra quick to assemble. It was honestly as simple as attaching the fan blades, attaching the center tube with the wiring in it, then adding both hubs that keeps the top and bottom ends of the tube looking nice once it’s mounted.
Haiku has won more than 75 international design and technology awards and one thing they strive for and hit, is ensuring their fans don’t wobble. I found out they have a 13 step process to hand balance each fan so you won’t have to be distracted by the repeated off balance rhythm so many fans make. 
After I mounted the bracket on the ceiling where I wanted the fan, I placed the ball into the socket, that’s what I’m describing it as at least, and turned it on. These fans also come with a remote and allow you to control the speed. Ha we were laughing because there is an actual “whoosh” button : )
Also, big high five on not only the quality of the fans, but also the instructions, and even making the remote magnetic. Just from head to toe, from aesthetics to function, everything on these products screens thought, effort, and quality. 
If you’re looking at mounting fans in the shop or even in your house I can’t recommend these enough. They are highly efficient, exceeding the Energy Star requirements for ceiling fans, extremely quiet, and have a customizable look for every space. 
If you’d like some of your own, check out the Big Ass Fan website here.
And while you’re checking things out, check out April Wilkerson merch here.
Ok, that’s it for 2018! Not only was I able to build my shop this year, I was able to put a big dent in my to-do list for outfitting and personalizing it. And that’s a great feeling. Thanks for coming along.
I’ll see you in 2019.
The post Installing Shop Fans – Big Ass Fans appeared first on Wilker Do's.
from Wilker Do's http://bit.ly/2Sq84dA from Ronald Bosley III on Blogger http://bit.ly/2AhrJFk
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davidpires578 · 6 years ago
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Wadkin Resurrection: Back Miter Fence
The previous post in this series dealt with the first stages of milling the rough casting of the protractor head. In this post, we look at the back miter fence, the rough casting for which was obtained recently from a dedicated Wadkin fan out on the west coast.
As I mentioned in that previous post, the design of the quadrant, that is, the pairing of independent front and back miter fences, seemed to lend itself to the processing of miter cuts for various polygons, while the later Wadkin one-piece cast mitering fence set at a 90˚angular relationship between front and rear fence faces was only going to be especially useful for 4-sided polygons (a tetragon, to use the technical term). Now, the 45˚ miter is the type of miter cut that will be executed by 99% of woodworkers in 99% of cases involving miter cuts, so as far as that goes having a one-piece miter fence is no great disadvantage at all.
Still, I do process a fair amount of other polygon miter cuts, and wanted the functionality promised with split front/rear miter fences to achieve the capacity to readily cut polygons from 3-sided (trigon) to 12-sided (dodecagon).
Ah, such hopeful imaginings. I took the rough casting for the back miter and decided to stick it in place, mocked up as it were, to see what was what. That’s when I discovered, to paraphrase a line from a Bruce Springsteen song (“Racing in the Street”) that, “all my pretty dreams had been torn”.
The way the pair of castings are configured does not allow for nearly the swing range I had imagined. The swept arm which allows the fence to be clamped at a given setting can only swing so far inwards before the end of that circular arm runs into the back face of the front miter casting. In order to get in much further than a 90˚ relationship between the two fence faces, the length of that swept arm needs to be on the shorter side. Anything beyond that, the base portions of the castings will run into one another. I found the tightest placement it appeared to be capable of would likely make it possible to cut the miter from a trigon, at 60˚ between fence faces.
Swinging back outward, the short swept arm now presents a constraint as to how far the back miter fence may be swung open while still being capable of being bolted tight to the front miter fence. This is as far out in swing as it looked like it would go:
Keep in mind that this is not the normal relationship of the paired fences for miter cutting. In this case I have the front miter fence in its the normal 90˚ relationship for cross cutting and have simply placed the back miter fence against it to check the relationship between the two fences. If I were to fix the fences together as you see in the above picture, obviously I would risk slamming the blade into the back miter fence, which would not be among the list of desired activities in my shop.
I reckon that the widest setting between fence faces I could obtain would be on the order of 108˚, which would allow pentagon miters to be cut. The back miter fence can open plenty wider, but then it cannot be clamped to the front fence, and given the lack of capacity on the sliding table for affixing hold downs, it would involve some head-scratching, and maybe an extra locking bolt hole in the table, some sort of pad upon which it could rest, and provide a means of fixing it all in place.
It’s an advantage to have the two fences capable of being bolted to one another as a unit, as that makes for greater convenience for those cases in which one is cutting unequal miters due to the framing members being mitered having different dimensions from one another. For example, you might have a 2″ wide frame to joint to a 2.5″ wide frame. With a front/back miter fence paired and connected to one another, then all one needs to do is leave the pair bolted in their same orientation and swing the assembled pair of fences out of the regular cutting angle to the blade to a position which produces the unequal miters. If the front fence and back fence are to be instead bolted independently to the table, then resetting for unequal miters becomes much more of a PITA.
An alternative idea would be to make a second version of back miter fence which would have a special longer swept arm and which could be placed in position when you want to cut with the fences more obtusely related than 108˚. If I went that route, I’m not sure I would go the way of wooden pattern and sand cast and then hours of milling. It’s not efficient, especially when there are good alternatives these days.
So, as a stock factory option, the front/rear miter fence pairing gives a functionality of cutting polygons in a range from 3-sided to 5-sided. That’s better than being able to cut only 4-sided polygon miters, but only very slightly better.
You know, as mentioned above, a vast preponderance of miter cuts are going to be for 4-sided right angled frames. Now, it seems to me that the next two miter angles one would expect on the basis of ‘likely to be done’ would be for 6-sided (hexagonal) or 8-sided (octagonal) frames. And the stock miter quadrant set up does not provide that functionality. As it only provides the capacity beyond the 45˚ miter to cut 3-sided and 5 sided frame corners, which are rather unlikely choices it seems to me, it might as well really only be a fixed unit giving the standard tetragon’s miter. Better to have a fixed 90˚ miter fence where you can be sure it is set at the right angle, no pun intended, than to have a device with fences which can move independently thus opening up a greater possibility that an error will occur in setting up which will lead to undesirable results, not to mention the inherent inefficiency of having to perform a secondary step to set the angular relationship between fences after the fence halve have been set onto the table. Sigh!
Still…what I want is a miter cutting device which allows me to quickly establish the angles required for any polygon up to 12 sides. The factory design and execution of quadrant does not allow for that. So, if I want that functionality, then I’ll have to find another way beside the stock set up.
I’m working on that other way presently, and have some percolating ideas which I have to exercise tremendous self restraint not to just spill the beans about. I’ll save that story for when concrete steps get taken towards that end. Right now I’ve settled upon a design approach and have executed a sketch which is most of the way to completion now.
In the meantime, I have this rough fence casting which I paid for, and is of no use until it is machined to final form. I’ve decided that I will machine it to produce an accurate replica of a factory back miter fence, which I will then have as a very desirable accessory for the saw, and the connected pair of fences will be perfectly usable for regular miters, which are going to be the most frequently tackled. So, it will still be useful. A rough casting is frankly not going to be useful to a lot of folks, unlike a machined one, which is at least going to be useful for cutting the standard miter.
So, on to some more cast iron machining. This back fence can be clamped in my Kurt vise, which is most helpful. What remains unhelpful is the shape of the piece, from the inside of which I must obtain the perfect back miter fence. There’s nothing to reference from to start, so it is unwise to mill too much off of any surface until you get your bearings and have a plan, so to speak.
The back miter fence millwork is slightly complicated by the fact that, in order to fit well to the front miter fence, three separate surfaces, at three separate heights, all have to be co-planar with the front fence, and all meeting at the same time. If one surface meets ahead of the others, then tightening the fence down with the lock bolt will introduce distortion to the casting which may throw it out of square or cause other unforeseen headaches. So, it seems I have one chance to get it right, though it seems like even if I get some of it wrong there are probably remedies involving shims or special washers that could address problems. I’m hoping though to get it right the first time without having to take such ‘plan b’s’.
I went initially with an orientation for the part which was easy to locate and clamp in the vise, and then took a couple of skims off the lower edge of the fence:
  With the same clamping position, I also skimmed the underside of the pivot:
Another view:
Not shown was the taking of a skim off of the swept arm portion. Once that was done, I flipped the fence over, placing it on the cleaned and flat-milled surface, atop a pair of parallels, and clamped it using a brass block in the middle of the vise jaw:
A pass or two also off of the top of the pivot:
At this stage there is plenty of extra material on the pivot boss for adjustment, and the fence section remains about 0.06″ fat of the mark.
My next step will be to deck the clamping pad on the front miter fence, and obtain a height which I can match with later millwork on the back miter fence:
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bryanironman · 7 years ago
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How Will sheds Be In The Future.
I assume many people have tried building something from scratch with out an in depth plan, I Hardware (simply click the up coming webpage) certainly have. And the way did that work out for you? I usually find yourself with a pretty good job, you already know, it works and it appears ok. However I don’t usually get it proper first time, which suggests I’ve wasted hours checking measurements and redrawing my “plans” or should I say doodles. And boy is it annoying while you reduce a bit of wooden and then find it is too quick. I know, “measure twice minimize once”, however when your plans flawed in the primary place that does not assist. So generally I’ve gotten a guide from the library or purchased a journal with a plan in it.
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While you wrap it all around the building, your building will shed rain and you might be able to drive within the tractor. A final thought and a few data. Please don’t work alone. You may very well be injured easily if a wall section broke loose and fell on you. Moreover, it’s simpler when you will have someone to assist hold things. The other thing was that you’ll want some specific tools to do this job. It can be carried out without most of them however they make the job easier. First, you need a very good screwgun or a drill with a screwdriving tip. One among an important parts of the human physique is the pores and skin. It’s the primary overlaying of our physique and thus, it’s the first thing that individuals notice in another person. Nowadays, most people try to attain having a flawless skin. Nonetheless, there are many issues that can happen because of reasons that might scare people. These problems are initially skilled during the puberty stage and if not cured instantly, will be carried over even in the later years of life. Because of various kinds of complexion problems, the emergence of many skin care products can be growing. Nowadays, increasingly more pores and skin care and enhancement products (like whitening soaps and creams) are sold available in the market.
Aggressive costs&quality
forty five and 90 Degrees Herringbone
It is easy to restore
It may withstand freezing and thawing temperatures
Snow could be easily faraway from the paving bricks
Look for their names in phonebooks or the internet
How long have they been within the asphalt paving business
Sparkling beauty
A dialogue about the very best sort of floors for each residential and decorative purposes has been there for a very lengthy interval. Several people have been utilizing polished concrete Melbourne market has for fairly some them. Polished concrete floors are extremely most popular compared to their competitors due to the following reasons. Polished concrete floors provide one of the best alternatives concerning cleaning and upkeep because they will simply be dusted particularly from efflorescence. Abnormal floors comprise dust particles that stick on the surface, and it’s troublesome to clean them. In terms of polished concrete Melbourne has, cleansing is finished twice as simple because you solely have to wipe rather gently, and your ground will likely be spotless. Concrete floors are the main supply of beauty and glamour for the user. Uninterested in wanting out your back window at an ugly, weathered yard shed? What to do with out having to go to the trouble and expense of constructing a shed? Is your higher half nudging you to “do something about that ugly shed?” One can’t deny, even the ugliest of sheds is best than no shed. First, be sure the shed is solid and worthy of continued maintenance – if it needs rebuilding, you may get shed plans that may guide your reconstruction. Nonetheless, if it’s sturdy, reveals no signs of rot or rust – its worthy of a magnificence makeover.
These criminals would favor to interrupt in by way of the entrance doors mainly because it is much hassle-free and simple for them, especially properties that don’t have secure locks. That’s the viewpoint from burglars in terms of doors that wouldn’t have enough protection. For competent attackers, doors that don’t generate enough defense isn’t a challenge. To eradicate this, ensure that you have got nice high-quality locks primarily on account of the actual fact these will act being a dependable barrier. To allow you to avert this type of incident, you’ll want to make specific which you only install one of the secure locks for your house. Simple Plugin for AdSense. poweraggregates Suppress this advert slot. Seal coats are emulsions that are brushed or sprayed onto pavements, providing a transparent protective layer against moisture and the above-talked about threats. There are several varieties of economic sealcoats accessible in the marketplace, but the preferred variations include fog seal, slurry seal, and chip seal emulsions. Some sealcoat merchandise are water-based mostly, which are easier and safer to spread. However there are also waterless versions that use organic or plant-based oils or hydrocarbon solvents as a substitute. In case your asphalt pavement is outdated and in poor condition, it will not likely benefit from a brand new layer of seal coat. In some cases, it is more cost-efficient to restore or replace deteriorated asphalt pavements as a substitute. However, if your asphalt is in good condition, a periodic re-sealing could be a extremely-beneficial upkeep choice. Discuss to your trusted paving contractor for a professional suggestion of your asphalt’s upkeep and sealcoating schedule. They will know exactly what your property needs and at what intervals. The price of getting your asphalt seal-coated will rely on a number of factors, such as the square footage, the condition of pavement, and any additional surface purposes needed.
You possibly can do this by buying either a sealer with a base of both acrylic or coal tar. The choice is yours, though you too can find out the pros and cons from the shop you purchase the product from. You’ll seemingly want a large amount of this product to seal the entire floor, and you will want special instruments to do it, similar to a large applicator to brush it on. If you do not want to purchase these items, or simply do not need the time or data to do the job yourself, consider hiring a driveway restore skilled. Not everyone can do this job on their very own, however just ignoring the difficulty altogether can consequence in your home needing main repairs down the road. Go for the magnetic bit holder that holds screws effectively. I have had many evil thoughts after dropping a lot of screws. You may additionally find one or two of those Vise-Grip kind C-clamps useful. Use them to carry the stud and track together on your mark whenever you screw them collectively. For special cuts, I used a mini-grinder to make the angle cuts of the roof trusses. You’ll want an excellent stage and a framing sized square. And yet another factor. Whenever you purchase screws for the framing, get the kind that have a drill level on the tip. It saves a variety of pushing. Always keep security in thoughts after which go brag to your neighbors!
If you have some expertise in doing woodwork, you’ll be able to finish off the duty in a few weekends. You must be very acquainted with the method earlier than you begin with constructing. Remember that you’re spending a superb deal of cash on the challenge, so it’s vital to be very clear in regards to the project proper from the beginning. First, you need to determine on the purpose of constructing the shed. The shed can be used for storage. It can be a place for your family to take a seat, loosen up, and entertain guests as effectively. Time – In order for you to build shortly, you could should compromise on money or quality. If you would like this process to get accomplished shortly, the only option is to rent contractors or pay for labor. However this is all the time dearer than constructing a barn shed by yourself. In order for you, you should buy a pre-assembled shed or a kit if you want to make the process sooner. However, you need to sacrifice high quality so both options are quite expensive. If in case you have a tight finances, both of these alternatives will not be suitable. Cash – The funds immediately affects the quality of your barn shed so it’s entirely your decision.
It can be fairly challenging to avoid wasting money if you are constructing a high quality barn shed. That you must make the extra effort to get superior quality discounted supplies. Have you ever heard of recycled supplies? That is one other wonderful means to avoid wasting cash. Get barn blueprints which you could view to estimate the bills. Quality – Always give attention to high quality and you’ll finally gain more in the long term. So get a great set of shed plans that makes use of high quality materials, and discover the very best model. Don’t have a specific budget or timeframe in case you are in search of an extended-lasting construction. You may be very skilful in constructing your individual shed, however always seek expert advice. Previous to initiating the challenge, assess all the necessities to your barn shed. Aside from this if you’re enthusiastic about prepared-made constructions there are various retailers both online as well as offline that provide barn sheds on the market. Get in contact with probably the most reliable ones.
If you liked this posting and you would like to get additional data relating to patio slabs (agree with this) kindly stop by our own site.
0 notes
fallonedisco · 7 years ago
Text
Five Teachings That Can Empower Your Business In paving products.
I assume many of us have tried building one thing from scratch with out a detailed plan, I Hardware (simply click the up coming webpage) definitely have. And the way did that work out for you? I normally end up with a fairly good job, you already know, it works and it looks okay. However I do not normally get it proper first time, which means I've wasted hours checking measurements and redrawing my "plans" or ought to I say doodles. And boy is it annoying whenever you cut a piece of wooden after which find it's too quick. I know, "measure twice reduce once", however when your plans wrong in the first place that does not assist. So generally I've gotten a book from the library or bought a journal with a plan in it.
youtube
If you wrap all of it across the constructing, your constructing will shed rain and you are ready to drive in the tractor. A remaining thought and a few information. Please don't work alone. You might be injured simply if a wall part broke free and fell on you. Apart from, it's easier when you've got someone to help hold issues. The other factor was that you will need some particular instruments to do that job. It can be completed without most of them but they make the job simpler. First, you need a superb screwgun or a drill with a screwdriving tip. One in all crucial elements of the human physique is the pores and skin. It's the primary masking of our physique and thus, it's the very first thing that people notice in another person. As of late, most individuals try to realize having a flawless skin. Nevertheless, there are many problems that can happen on account of reasons that would scare individuals. These issues are initially skilled through the puberty stage and if not cured immediately, can be carried over even within the later years of life. Due to several types of complexion issues, the emergence of many pores and skin care merchandise is also rising. Lately, increasingly skin care and enhancement merchandise (like whitening soaps and creams) are sold available in the market.
Aggressive costs&quality
forty five and ninety Degrees Herringbone
It is straightforward to repair
It might probably withstand freezing and thawing temperatures
Snow might be simply faraway from the paving bricks
Look for their names in phonebooks or the web
How long have they been in the asphalt paving enterprise
Sparkling magnificence
A discussion about the most effective sort of floors for both residential and decorative purposes has been there for a really lengthy interval. Several people have been utilizing polished concrete Melbourne market has for quite some them. Polished concrete floors are highly most popular compared to their rivals because of the following reasons. Polished concrete floors offer the very best options concerning cleansing and maintenance because they'll easily be dusted particularly from efflorescence. Extraordinary floors include dust particles that stick on the floor, and it's tough to wash them. In relation to polished concrete Melbourne has, cleaning is finished twice as straightforward because you solely must wipe relatively gently, and your flooring will likely be spotless. Concrete floors are the main source of magnificence and glamour for the user. Tired of trying out your again window at an ugly, weathered backyard shed? What to do with out having to go to the difficulty and expense of building a shed? Is your better half nudging you to "do one thing about that ugly shed?" One cannot deny, even the ugliest of sheds is healthier than no shed. First, make certain the shed is solid and worthy of continued upkeep - if it needs rebuilding, you may get shed plans that may information your reconstruction. Nonetheless, if it is sturdy, shows no indicators of rot or rust - its worthy of a beauty makeover.
These criminals would favor to interrupt in by means of the entrance doorways primarily as a result of it is far hassle-free and simple for them, especially houses that don’t have protected locks. That's the point of view from burglars by way of doorways that wouldn't have enough protection. For competent attackers, doors that don't generate enough protection isn’t a challenge. To eradicate this, be certain you've got nice top quality locks mainly because of the actual fact these will act being a reliable barrier. To allow you to avert any such incident, you need to make specific which you solely set up some of the safe locks for your house. Easy Plugin for AdSense. Suppress this advert slot. Seal coats are emulsions which can be brushed or sprayed onto pavements, offering a clear protecting layer towards moisture and the above-talked about threats. There are several types of business sealcoats available in the marketplace, but the preferred variations embrace fog seal, slurry seal, and chip seal emulsions. Some sealcoat products are water-based, that are easier and safer to spread. But there are also waterless variations that use organic or plant-primarily based oils or hydrocarbon solvents instead. If your asphalt pavement is previous and in poor situation, it will not going profit from a brand new layer of seal coat. In some instances, it is extra value-efficient to restore or change deteriorated asphalt pavements instead. Nonetheless, in case your asphalt is in good condition, a periodic re-sealing generally is a highly-helpful maintenance resolution. Talk to your trusted paving contractor for a professional advice of your asphalt's maintenance and sealcoating schedule. They are going to know exactly what your property needs and at what intervals. The price of having your asphalt seal-coated will rely on a number of components, such because the square footage, the condition of pavement, and any extra floor purposes needed. You possibly can do that by shopping for either a sealer with a base of both acrylic or coal tar. The selection is yours, though it's also possible to find out the pros and cons from the store you purchase the product from. You will doubtless need a large amount of this product to seal the whole floor, and you will want particular tools to do it, similar to a big applicator to brush it on. If you do not want to buy these things, or just do not need the time or knowledge to do the job your self, consider hiring a driveway restore professional. Not everybody can do that job on their own, but just ignoring the issue altogether can result in your house needing main repairs down the highway. Go for the magnetic bit holder that holds screws effectively. I have had many evil ideas after dropping lots of screws. You may also find one or two of those Vise-Grip sort C-clamps useful. Use them to carry the stud and monitor together in your mark whenever you screw them together. For special cuts, I used a mini-grinder to make the angle cuts of the roof trusses. You'll need a superb level and a framing sized sq.. And yet another thing. Once you purchase screws for the framing, get the type that have a drill point on the tip. It saves a whole lot of pushing. Always keep security in mind after which go brag to your neighbors! When you have some experience in doing woodwork, you may end off the task in just a few weekends. You should be very accustomed to the process earlier than you begin with building. Remember that you're spending a great deal of money on the mission, so it’s essential to be very clear about the project right from the beginning. First, you must determine on the purpose of building the shed. The shed can be used for storage. It can be a place for your family to sit down, chill out, and entertain guests as nicely. Time - If you want to build quickly, you may need to compromise on cash or quality. If you need this course of to get achieved quickly, the only option is to hire contractors or pay for labor. But this is always more expensive than building a barn shed by yourself. If you would like, you should buy a pre-assembled shed or a package if you wish to make the method quicker. However, it's a must to sacrifice quality so each options are fairly costly. When you have a tight budget, both of these alternatives will not be suitable. Money - The budget instantly affects the quality of your barn shed so it’s totally your choice. It may be quite challenging to save lots of money in case you are building a quality barn shed. You must make the extra effort to get superior quality discounted supplies. Have you heard of recycled materials? This is one other smart way to save money. Get barn blueprints which you can view to estimate the expenses. High quality - Always give attention to quality and you'll ultimately acquire more in the long term. So get a very good set of shed plans that uses quality supplies, and find the very best type. Power Aggregates Don’t have a selected finances or time frame if you are searching for a protracted-lasting construction. You could be very skilful in constructing your individual shed, however all the time search expert advice. Previous to initiating the venture, assess all the necessities for your barn shed. Apart from this in case you are interested by prepared-made constructions there are lots of retailers both online in addition to offline that supply barn sheds on the market. Get in touch with probably the most reliable ones. If you liked this short article and you would like to obtain extra facts relating to patio slabs (agree with this) kindly check out the website.
0 notes
foggy-notion · 7 years ago
Text
Why Is sheds So Famous?
I guess many people have tried constructing something from scratch with out an in depth plan, I Hardware (simply click the up coming webpage) certainly have. And how did that work out for you? I often find yourself with a fairly good job, you already know, it really works and it looks okay. But I don’t often get it proper first time, which means I’ve wasted hours checking measurements and redrawing my “plans” or ought to I say doodles. And boy is it annoying when you cut a bit of wood after which find it is too brief. I do know, “measure twice cut as soon as”, however when your plans unsuitable in the primary place that doesn’t assist. So sometimes I’ve gotten a e book from the library or purchased a magazine with a plan in it.
youtube
When you wrap all of it around the constructing, your constructing will shed rain and you might be ready to drive within the tractor. have a peek here A ultimate thought and some data. Please don’t work alone. You may very well be injured easily if a wall section broke free and fell on you. Moreover, it is easier when you’ve got someone to help hold things. The opposite thing was that you’ll want some particular instruments to do this job. It can be achieved with out most of them but they make the job easier. First, you need an excellent screwgun or a drill with a screwdriving tip. One in every of a very powerful components of the human body is the pores and skin. It’s the first covering of our physique and thus, it’s the first thing that folks notice in one other person. Lately, most individuals try to attain having a flawless skin. Nevertheless, there are many problems that can occur as a result of reasons that might scare folks. These issues are initially experienced during the puberty stage and if not cured immediately, can be carried over even in the later years of life. Due to different types of complexion problems, the emergence of many pores and skin care products is also growing. Today, more and more skin care and enhancement merchandise (like whitening soaps and creams) are sold in the market.
Competitive costs&quality
45 and ninety Degrees Herringbone
It is straightforward to restore
It could possibly withstand freezing and thawing temperatures
Snow could be easily removed from the paving bricks
Look for his or her names in phonebooks or the internet
How lengthy have they been in the asphalt paving business
Sparkling beauty
A discussion about the best sort of floors for both residential and decorative purposes has been there for a very long period. A number of people have been utilizing polished concrete Melbourne market has for quite some them. Polished concrete floors are highly most popular compared to their competitors attributable to the next causes. Polished concrete floors offer the best options relating to cleansing and maintenance because they can simply be dusted especially from efflorescence. Ordinary floors include mud particles that stick on the surface, and it’s troublesome to clean them. In relation to polished concrete Melbourne has, cleaning is completed twice as simple because you solely must wipe slightly gently, and your flooring will be spotless. Concrete floors are the primary source of magnificence and glamour for the person. Tired of wanting out your again window at an ugly, weathered backyard shed? What to do without having to go to the trouble and expense of building a shed? Is your higher half nudging you to “do something about that ugly shed?” One can’t deny, even the ugliest of sheds is healthier than no shed. First, be sure that the shed is strong and worthy of continued maintenance - if it wants rebuilding, you may get shed plans that will guide your reconstruction. Nonetheless, if it’s sturdy, shows no indicators of rot or rust - its worthy of a beauty makeover.
These criminals would favor to break in by the use of the entrance doors primarily as a result of it is much problem-free and easy for them, especially houses that don’t have safe locks. That’s the viewpoint from burglars in terms of doorways that wouldn’t have enough protection. For competent attackers, doorways that don’t generate enough defense isn’t a problem. To eradicate this, make sure you have got great top quality locks mainly because of the actual fact these will act being a dependable barrier. To allow you to avert any such incident, it’s essential to make specific which you only install one of the safe locks for your home. Simple Plugin for AdSense. Suppress this advert slot. Seal coats are emulsions which can be brushed or sprayed onto pavements, providing a clear protecting layer in opposition to moisture and the above-mentioned threats. There are a number of sorts of commercial sealcoats accessible on the market, however the most popular versions include fog seal, slurry seal, and chip seal emulsions. Some sealcoat products are water-based mostly, which are simpler and safer to spread. But there are additionally waterless variations that use organic or plant-primarily based oils or hydrocarbon solvents as a substitute. If your asphalt pavement is previous and in poor situation, it should unlikely benefit from a brand new layer of seal coat. In some cases, it is extra price-efficient to restore or substitute deteriorated asphalt pavements as an alternative. However, in case your asphalt is in good situation, a periodic re-sealing could be a extremely-helpful upkeep choice. Talk to your trusted paving contractor for a professional suggestion of your asphalt’s maintenance and sealcoating schedule. They’ll know precisely what your property wants and at what intervals. The price of having your asphalt seal-coated will rely on several components, such as the square footage, the condition of pavement, and any additional surface purposes needed. You possibly can do this by buying either a sealer with a base of both acrylic or coal tar. The choice is yours, though you can even discover out the professionals and cons from the store you buy the product from. You’ll probably need a considerable amount of this product to seal the complete floor, and you will want special tools to do it, equivalent to a large applicator to brush it on. If you do not wish to buy these things, or just would not have the time or information to do the job your self, consider hiring a driveway repair professional. Not everyone can do this job on their own, but simply ignoring the problem altogether can end result in your home needing major repairs down the street. Go for the magnetic bit holder that holds screws nicely. I’ve had many evil ideas after dropping a lot of screws. You will also discover one or two of these Vise-Grip sort C-clamps handy. Use them to carry the stud and track collectively in your mark whenever you screw them collectively. For special cuts, I used a mini-grinder to make the angle cuts of the roof trusses. You’ll want a great degree and a framing sized sq.. And another factor. While you purchase screws for the framing, get the type which have a drill point on the tip. It saves a lot of pushing. At all times keep safety in thoughts after which go brag to your neighbors! If you have some expertise in doing woodwork, you possibly can end off the duty in just a few weekends. You have to be very acquainted with the method earlier than you start with building. Remember that you’re spending an excellent deal of money on the undertaking, so it’s essential to be very clear about the undertaking right from the start. First, you must determine on the aim of constructing the shed. The shed can be used for storage. It will also be a spot for your loved ones to take a seat, relax, and entertain friends as nicely. Time - If you’d like to construct quickly, you may should compromise on money or quality. If you would like this course of to get accomplished shortly, the best choice is to hire contractors or pay for labor. But that is always more expensive than constructing a barn shed on your own. If you need, you can buy a pre-assembled shed or a kit if you wish to make the method sooner. However, it’s important to sacrifice quality so each options are fairly costly. You probably have a tight funds, each of those options are not appropriate. Cash - The funds directly impacts the standard of your barn shed so it’s totally your decision. It can be fairly challenging to save lots of cash in case you are building a quality barn shed. You must make the additional effort to get superior quality discounted supplies. Have you heard of recycled materials? That is one other great way to avoid wasting cash. Get barn blueprints you could view to estimate the expenses. High quality - All the time give attention to high quality and you’ll ultimately acquire more in the long run. So get a good set of shed plans that makes use of high quality materials, and discover the very best type. Don’t have a specific price range or timeframe if you are searching for a protracted-lasting construction. You may be very skilful in constructing your own shed, but at all times search expert recommendation. Previous to initiating the venture, assess all the requirements in your barn shed. Apart from this if you’re concerned about prepared-made buildings there are lots of retailers both on-line as well as offline that offer barn sheds on the market. Get in contact with probably the most reliable ones. If you loved this write-up and you would like to get far more information with regards to patio slabs (agree with this) kindly take a look at our site.
0 notes
agilenano · 5 years ago
Text
Agilenano - News: Because your home is now your workplace, gym, coffee shop, and primary care facility, you’ll need to keep it in good working order.
Under normal circumstances, “honey-do” lists and “weekend warrior” projects often get pushed aside by the daily grind. But in this bizarre new pandemic reality, that grind has ground to a halt. If there’s an upside, it’s that you have both time and incentive to knock out some of those around-the-house chores you may have put off. We spoke to a project manager and lead carpenter with a home remodeling business to find out what projects anyone can do to keep their homes in tip-top shape. And don’t worry if DYI isn’t your thing. Not only are these 11 tips easy for most anyone, but we even included a simple list of beginner tools to help build an essential toolkit you can be proud of. 11 Easy & Essential Home Maintenance Projects We spoke with John Wagner, a partner and project manager at the Twin Cities-based Waxwing Woodworking Inc. He identified 11 projects every homeowner should do to keep their house running efficiently and safely. And if you’re a renter, you can still check these things and let your landlord know. And while Wagner said you could easily get all these done during these social distancing mandates — some take as little as 30 seconds — at the very least, you could use this time to check all the items and make a plan for the next couple months. 1. Change your home air filter Filters should be changed monthly, and you should always have a spare one on hand. If you don’t, check the filter size and head on down to your friendly neighborhood filter (hardware/home improvement) store and pick up a bulk pack. Unless you have acute sensitivities to specific particulates, a filter with a “MERV” rating of 5 to 8 will be fine. A higher MERV rating will trap finer particles, but at some cost to the efficiency of your furnace. If you’re not sure what filter to use with your system, check the service manual or give a local heating contractor a call. Once you have the new filter, remove the old one and replace it, taking care to orient the filter for the direction of airflow. If you don’t have the size of the filter and direction of airflow written on your filter cover, now’s a good time to bust out the marker and get that done. 2. Clean gutters, check downspouts Take a walk around the perimeter of your house and check your gutters and downspouts. If you didn’t clean your gutters after the leaves fell last year, get to work. But don’t just leave that crap on the ground! (More on that later.) Downspouts should extend a minimum of 5 feet from the foundation to keep water from working its way into your basement. If you have a finished basement, a nice, long downspout could wind up saving you a ton of money. Most basement moisture problems arise from bulk water intrusion caused by bad slope and drainage. If your soil doesn’t slope away from your house (6 inches over 10 feet), that’s a major issue to address. Quick note: If you live in a cold climate, you should have a dehumidifier running from spring through fall (especially if you have a finished basement). 3. Prep garden, remove yard matter near your house Once you’ve thrown all your gutter goo onto the ground, pick it up. Rake up the old, decaying stuff from around the house so that soil isn’t building up against the house. If you put mulch around the house, it’s good to maintain 6 inches of clearance below the siding, especially if your siding material is a wood or wood composite. Personally, I like a 12- to 18-inch bed of crushed rock or gravel between the foundation and plants. That buffer will help prevent moisture and pests from working into the house. Plus, this is also a great time to plan for your vegetable garden. If the soil has thawed enough where you are, mix in some compost, and you’ll be ready to plant when the weather allows. Finally, now’s a great time for tree trimming. If you’re up to it and can do it safely, trim away dead or decaying branches and manage the growth of fruit trees. The University of Minnesota Extension has excellent resources for managing trees and gardening. 4. Clean air-conditioning coils First, you’ll want to clear away any plant growth around the condenser. Hook up your hose and decide how clean you want the condenser. You can either take the cover off (be sure to flip the breaker off inside) and clean from the inside out, or you can spray from the outside with the cover still on. Either way, spray at a downward angle until clean. If you’ve removed the cover to clean, you should be really proud of yourself — unless you damage the thin aluminum fins by folding them over. 5. Vacuum refrigerator coils Carefully walk out your refrigerator and start suckin’! Pull off the cover on the front that overlaps the wheels and vacuum that out. At the back of the fridge, vacuum the coils and motor. (No need to look behind the fridge, there’s definitely nothing there. Nope.) Just slide the fridge back. Be sure the fridge has an inch or so of clearance above it to allow warm air to escape. 6. Check siding for holes or other entrances for vermin, seal them If you had any winter guests this year, now’s a good time to check around the house to see how they got in. Start by following #3 above. Then, check for holes in the siding, gaps below the last course of siding (could be loose bricks or cracked stucco), or gaps that might have formed in your soffits. You can fix most means of ingress with better landscaping, steel wool, a good-quality caulk, or spray foam. Now, if you had squirrels or raccoons get into your attic through holes in your soffit or fascia, you might want to call a contractor. 7. Summerize snowblower, prep lawnmower for season If you’re not expecting more snow, get your snowblower ready to hibernate. Remove the fuel that’s in it and empty the fuel into a safe storage container (you can dump the fuel from the snowblower into your gas can). Don’t be a jerk neighbor and run your snowblower for 2 hours to burn off the fuel. Also, get some fuel stabilizer and pour that into your gas can before filling it up with gas. Next, clean up your snowblower. Lubricate any parts that move, pull the spark plug, and get a bit of oil worked through the motor by pulling the cord a couple of times. You might as well check to see if your augur blade is worn down or damaged; the same goes for the scraper blade. As for the lawnmower, if it ran well the year before, you should be able to fuel it up and get it going. If not, it’s generally a simple procedure to pull and clean the carburetor, replace the spark plug, and complete an oil change. Now, if you’re feeling frisky, you can check and sharpen the mower blade. Disconnect the spark plug, flip the mower, and remove the blade (you’ll need a wrench). Clamp the blade in a vise or clamp it to a sturdy table. With an angle grinder and a sanding pad, give the blade a few passes at a 30-degree angle. If you’re left with a rough burr on the back side of the edge, knock it off with a few passes of a file. If you don’t have an angle grinder, you can use a sharpening stone or a file, but it takes much longer. 8. Check washing machine filter, clean dryer vent This one is pretty straightforward. First, check your washer’s manual on how to clean the filter. It will probably say something smug, like, “Clean this filter monthly.” But there’s another inlet filter that’s also super easy to clean. Turn off the water supply, disconnect the hose, and remove any particulates. This is an especially important task if you have older, galvanized supply lines in your home. Cleaning the dryer vent is super important, too. First of all, your vent should be a rigid pipe, and the joints should be lapped so that lint isn’t accumulating at the edges. Disconnect the pipe from the dryer (just pull, and you might have to cut some tape) and check the vent on the dryer. Clear or dirty? Any toys in there? Next, take a look into the pipe. Slide a vacuum hose up there with a brush attachment. Now, head outside to the dryer’s exhaust port. On the outside of the house, check to see if the damper closes smoothly or if lint has accumulated there and was letting freezing-cold air into your house all winter. Clean it. Reattach the pipe and re-tape those joints with a quality foil tape. If you have a flexible vent pipe, switch to a rigid pipe. Rigid pipe will vent more efficiently, trap less lint, and is overall safer. 9. Check carbon monoxide and smoke detectors Test ‘em all! Change the batteries. If any of the units are old, replace them. Many new units come with sealed batteries and are good for 10 years. You should have a minimum of one smoke and one carbon monoxide (CO) detector on each floor, a smoke detector inside and outside of each bedroom, and a CO detector within 10 feet of each bedroom and sleeping area. 10. Upgrade your thermostat Get and install a smart thermostat. Personally, I like the ecobee. Chances are that your energy provider offers some kind of rebate, which will offset some of the initial cost. It proved super easy to install in my home, even though I didn’t have a C-wire. The savings started immediately, the unit is super intuitive and functional, it looks nice, and the sensors prioritize heating and cooling occupied spaces. Why do it? Because a super-easy way to save money and energy, as well as limit emissions, is to not be such an energy hog. Sign up for off-peak energy and adjust your thermostat settings so that your house is 65 degrees in the winter and 76 degrees in the summer. Some people may require different temps for health reasons, but your house doesn’t have to be 70 degrees all year ’round. 11. Check water heater The more adventurous among you may want to try a little water heater maintenance. Three things to do here: Check the pressure relief valve, check/replace the sacrificial anode, and flush the water heater. Testing the pressure relief valve will get a bit of scalding-hot water on the floor. So wear sturdy shoes. This one is better to watch — I recommend the trove of good info on the This Old House channel on YouTube. This is really a show, don’t tell fix. Check out some of the channel’s videos below. Temperature and pressure relief valve: Sacrificial anode: Flush water heater: Bonus: Start a home savings account The best way to save money is to actively save money. So if you have the luxury right now, you could start a savings account for your home. A good rule of thumb is to save 1.5-2% of your home’s value every year. If some of the systems in the house aren’t in great shape or are older, save a little more. For some perspective, a full replacement of a forced-air furnace and AC condenser can easily run up to $10,000 or more. Basic Toolkit for Home Maintenance To tackle most home improvement projects, you’ll need some rudimentary tools. Here’s a list of tools you should have on hand to tackle common DIY tasks: Home DIY Toolkit Hammer Phillips, flathead, or interchangeable-head screwdrivers Electric drill with bit kit and driver bits Tape measure Utility knife Pliers Adjustable wrench Small handsaw Voltage detector Wire nuts Wire cutters Safety glasses and ear protection Level (32″) Electrical, Teflon, duct, and painter’s tape Allen keys Small socket set Small pry bar Rags Pencils, sharpies The post 11 Simple Home Projects to Bang Out During Quarantine appeared first on GearJunkie. #Lifestyle #Coronavirus
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Agilenano - News: 11 Simple Home Projects to Bang Out During Quarantine
Because your home is now your workplace, gym, coffee shop, and primary care facility, you’ll need to keep it in good working order.
Under normal circumstances, “honey-do” lists and “weekend warrior” projects often get pushed aside by the daily grind. But in this bizarre new pandemic reality, that grind has ground to a halt.
If there’s an upside, it’s that you have both time and incentive to knock out some of those around-the-house chores you may have put off. We spoke to a project manager and lead carpenter with a home remodeling business to find out what projects anyone can do to keep their homes in tip-top shape.
And don’t worry if DYI isn’t your thing. Not only are these 11 tips easy for most anyone, but we even included a simple list of beginner tools to help build an essential toolkit you can be proud of.
11 Easy & Essential Home Maintenance Projects
We spoke with John Wagner, a partner and project manager at the Twin Cities-based Waxwing Woodworking Inc. He identified 11 projects every homeowner should do to keep their house running efficiently and safely. And if you’re a renter, you can still check these things and let your landlord know.
And while Wagner said you could easily get all these done during these social distancing mandates — some take as little as 30 seconds — at the very least, you could use this time to check all the items and make a plan for the next couple months.
1. Change your home air filter
Filters should be changed monthly, and you should always have a spare one on hand. If you don’t, check the filter size and head on down to your friendly neighborhood filter (hardware/home improvement) store and pick up a bulk pack. Unless you have acute sensitivities to specific particulates, a filter with a “MERV” rating of 5 to 8 will be fine.
A higher MERV rating will trap finer particles, but at some cost to the efficiency of your furnace. If you’re not sure what filter to use with your system, check the service manual or give a local heating contractor a call.
Once you have the new filter, remove the old one and replace it, taking care to orient the filter for the direction of airflow. If you don’t have the size of the filter and direction of airflow written on your filter cover, now’s a good time to bust out the marker and get that done.
2. Clean gutters, check downspouts
Take a walk around the perimeter of your house and check your gutters and downspouts. If you didn’t clean your gutters after the leaves fell last year, get to work. But don’t just leave that crap on the ground! (More on that later.)
Downspouts should extend a minimum of 5 feet from the foundation to keep water from working its way into your basement. If you have a finished basement, a nice, long downspout could wind up saving you a ton of money.
Most basement moisture problems arise from bulk water intrusion caused by bad slope and drainage. If your soil doesn’t slope away from your house (6 inches over 10 feet), that’s a major issue to address.
Quick note: If you live in a cold climate, you should have a dehumidifier running from spring through fall (especially if you have a finished basement).
3. Prep garden, remove yard matter near your house
Once you’ve thrown all your gutter goo onto the ground, pick it up. Rake up the old, decaying stuff from around the house so that soil isn’t building up against the house.
If you put mulch around the house, it’s good to maintain 6 inches of clearance below the siding, especially if your siding material is a wood or wood composite. Personally, I like a 12- to 18-inch bed of crushed rock or gravel between the foundation and plants. That buffer will help prevent moisture and pests from working into the house.
Plus, this is also a great time to plan for your vegetable garden. If the soil has thawed enough where you are, mix in some compost, and you’ll be ready to plant when the weather allows.
Finally, now’s a great time for tree trimming. If you’re up to it and can do it safely, trim away dead or decaying branches and manage the growth of fruit trees.
The University of Minnesota Extension has excellent resources for managing trees and gardening.
4. Clean air-conditioning coils
First, you’ll want to clear away any plant growth around the condenser. Hook up your hose and decide how clean you want the condenser. You can either take the cover off (be sure to flip the breaker off inside) and clean from the inside out, or you can spray from the outside with the cover still on.
Either way, spray at a downward angle until clean. If you’ve removed the cover to clean, you should be really proud of yourself — unless you damage the thin aluminum fins by folding them over.
5. Vacuum refrigerator coils
Carefully walk out your refrigerator and start suckin’! Pull off the cover on the front that overlaps the wheels and vacuum that out. At the back of the fridge, vacuum the coils and motor. (No need to look behind the fridge, there’s definitely nothing there. Nope.) Just slide the fridge back.
Be sure the fridge has an inch or so of clearance above it to allow warm air to escape.
6. Check siding for holes or other entrances for vermin, seal them
If you had any winter guests this year, now’s a good time to check around the house to see how they got in. Start by following #3 above.
Then, check for holes in the siding, gaps below the last course of siding (could be loose bricks or cracked stucco), or gaps that might have formed in your soffits. You can fix most means of ingress with better landscaping, steel wool, a good-quality caulk, or spray foam.
Now, if you had squirrels or raccoons get into your attic through holes in your soffit or fascia, you might want to call a contractor.
7. Summerize snowblower, prep lawnmower for season
If you’re not expecting more snow, get your snowblower ready to hibernate. Remove the fuel that’s in it and empty the fuel into a safe storage container (you can dump the fuel from the snowblower into your gas can).
Don’t be a jerk neighbor and run your snowblower for 2 hours to burn off the fuel. Also, get some fuel stabilizer and pour that into your gas can before filling it up with gas.
Next, clean up your snowblower. Lubricate any parts that move, pull the spark plug, and get a bit of oil worked through the motor by pulling the cord a couple of times. You might as well check to see if your augur blade is worn down or damaged; the same goes for the scraper blade.
As for the lawnmower, if it ran well the year before, you should be able to fuel it up and get it going. If not, it’s generally a simple procedure to pull and clean the carburetor, replace the spark plug, and complete an oil change.
Now, if you’re feeling frisky, you can check and sharpen the mower blade. Disconnect the spark plug, flip the mower, and remove the blade (you’ll need a wrench). Clamp the blade in a vise or clamp it to a sturdy table.
With an angle grinder and a sanding pad, give the blade a few passes at a 30-degree angle. If you’re left with a rough burr on the back side of the edge, knock it off with a few passes of a file. If you don’t have an angle grinder, you can use a sharpening stone or a file, but it takes much longer.
8. Check washing machine filter, clean dryer vent
This one is pretty straightforward. First, check your washer’s manual on how to clean the filter. It will probably say something smug, like, “Clean this filter monthly.”
But there’s another inlet filter that’s also super easy to clean. Turn off the water supply, disconnect the hose, and remove any particulates. This is an especially important task if you have older, galvanized supply lines in your home.
Cleaning the dryer vent is super important, too. First of all, your vent should be a rigid pipe, and the joints should be lapped so that lint isn’t accumulating at the edges. Disconnect the pipe from the dryer (just pull, and you might have to cut some tape) and check the vent on the dryer. Clear or dirty? Any toys in there?
Next, take a look into the pipe. Slide a vacuum hose up there with a brush attachment. Now, head outside to the dryer’s exhaust port.
On the outside of the house, check to see if the damper closes smoothly or if lint has accumulated there and was letting freezing-cold air into your house all winter. Clean it. Reattach the pipe and re-tape those joints with a quality foil tape.
If you have a flexible vent pipe, switch to a rigid pipe. Rigid pipe will vent more efficiently, trap less lint, and is overall safer.
9. Check carbon monoxide and smoke detectors
Test ‘em all! Change the batteries. If any of the units are old, replace them. Many new units come with sealed batteries and are good for 10 years.
You should have a minimum of one smoke and one carbon monoxide (CO) detector on each floor, a smoke detector inside and outside of each bedroom, and a CO detector within 10 feet of each bedroom and sleeping area.
10. Upgrade your thermostat
Get and install a smart thermostat. Personally, I like the ecobee. Chances are that your energy provider offers some kind of rebate, which will offset some of the initial cost.
It proved super easy to install in my home, even though I didn’t have a C-wire. The savings started immediately, the unit is super intuitive and functional, it looks nice, and the sensors prioritize heating and cooling occupied spaces.
Why do it? Because a super-easy way to save money and energy, as well as limit emissions, is to not be such an energy hog. Sign up for off-peak energy and adjust your thermostat settings so that your house is 65 degrees in the winter and 76 degrees in the summer.
Some people may require different temps for health reasons, but your house doesn’t have to be 70 degrees all year ’round.
11. Check water heater
The more adventurous among you may want to try a little water heater maintenance. Three things to do here: Check the pressure relief valve, check/replace the sacrificial anode, and flush the water heater.
Testing the pressure relief valve will get a bit of scalding-hot water on the floor. So wear sturdy shoes. This one is better to watch — I recommend the trove of good info on the This Old House channel on YouTube. This is really a show, don’t tell fix. Check out some of the channel’s videos below.
Temperature and pressure relief valve:
youtube
Sacrificial anode:
youtube
Flush water heater:
youtube
Bonus: Start a home savings account
The best way to save money is to actively save money. So if you have the luxury right now, you could start a savings account for your home.
A good rule of thumb is to save 1.5-2% of your home’s value every year. If some of the systems in the house aren’t in great shape or are older, save a little more.
For some perspective, a full replacement of a forced-air furnace and AC condenser can easily run up to $10,000 or more.
Basic Toolkit for Home Maintenance
To tackle most home improvement projects, you’ll need some rudimentary tools. Here’s a list of tools you should have on hand to tackle common DIY tasks:
Home DIY Toolkit
Hammer
Phillips, flathead, or interchangeable-head screwdrivers
Electric drill with bit kit and driver bits
Tape measure
Utility knife
Pliers
Adjustable wrench
Small handsaw
Voltage detector
Wire nuts
Wire cutters
Safety glasses and ear protection
Level (32″)
Electrical, Teflon, duct, and painter’s tape
Allen keys
Small socket set
Small pry bar
Rags
Pencils, sharpies
The post 11 Simple Home Projects to Bang Out During Quarantine appeared first on GearJunkie.
Agilenano - News from Agilenano from shopsnetwork (4 sites) https://agilenano.com/blogs/news/11-simple-home-projects-to-bang-out-during-quarantine
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