#menswearmusing

[thurstongrey]

[menswearmusings]

Nothing—and I mean nothing—is better than killer light blue dress shirt. Not too light. Not too blue. Just that perfect amount of saturation at just the right brightness that pairs with anything. This shirt from @propercloth is literally perfect for those reasons and more. A. It’s an end-on-end—meaning it’s smooth like silk, layering well under any knit or unlined jacket; but also it has that visual texture up close (IYKYK). B. Since it’s custom, I got to design it as closely to the Platonic Ideal of a dress shirt I can think of—tall, confident spread collar (soft Roma cutaway) with long, soft rounded cuffs, and a plain French placket. C. Custom, perfect fit with complimentary remake if I miss the mark. Ugh. So good. Oh, and SCOPE THE LINK IN BIO FOR A CUSTOM, CURATED PAGE OF AWESOME STUFF AT @propercloth #ad #sponsored #thankyoulovelysponsors #propercloth #menswear #whatiwore #wiwt #menswearmusings (at Nashville, Tennessee) https://www.instagram.com/p/CqBjDgPJ8k3/?igshid=NGJjMDIxMWI=

[oxfords---notbrogues]

@menswearmusings

[kentwang]

Featuring @menswearmusings, showcasing our Black Lizarrd Watch Strap. Watch: Omega Aqua Terra reference 231.12.42.21.01.002. https://www.kentwang.com/lizard-watch-strap.html

[abitofcolor]

New coat (just in time for our sub-freezing temps) from the late Italian Eidos brand under Isaia. Was looking for something tailored that would mix with casual knits and jeans. The chunky large scale herringbone with flecks of tan, ivory and brown against black is ideal. Thanks to @menswearmusings for sizing guidance. #menswear #isaia #eidos #styleforum #mensfashion #mensstyle #tailored #gq #esquire #madeinitaly #levis #paraboot #putthison #lvc #levisvintageclothing (at Santa Fe, New Mexico) https://www.instagram.com/p/CZh3oGuJnBt/?utm_medium=tumblr

[obeyfeline]

Thanking @menswearmusings as well for his kind inclusion of my book in his gift list! https://www.instagram.com/p/CXOq8yGrMWY/?utm_medium=tumblr

[thepopinjay]

@menswearmusings

[lacasuarina]

The ever dapper and well coiffed @menswearmusings doing our @eidos chambray shirt justice in the Nashville heat! Appreciate the support. #menswear #eidos #chambray #luxeswap https://www.instagram.com/p/ByaOGlYAL4J/?igshid=t559s2pql08

[stylejournaldaily]

The cut that @menswearmusings affectionately (I think?) calls the "boring conservative Neapolitan" 😉 I love it. I may be boring 😂 I'm wearing a @sartoriaformosa1965 jacket in @drapersitaly hopsack fabric from @nomanwalksalone. The shirt is @ascotchang from @thearmourynyc, and the tie is from @drakesdiary. . . . . #nomanwalksalone #sartoriaformosa #drapers #drapersitaly #drapersjackets #hopsack #spallacamicia #drakesdiary #drakesoflondon #drakestie #ascotchang #thearmoury #thearmourynyc #thearmouryhk #drakes #sartorial #sprezzatura #stylishgent #stylishmen #mnswr #tieporn #pocketsquare #pocketsquaregame #menstailoring #menswear #classicmenswear #styleforum http://ift.tt/2zrXwSr

[theunbuttonedlife]

Channeling My Inner (Boss) Hogg: A tribute to @preppybythegraceofgod 

Though I love steez, I generally keep it under wraps. Normally, it's a play on The Classics — blue jacket, slacks/chinos, simple shirt, and loafers. But sometimes, a man throws caution to the wind and says aloud, "Dangit Jim, I'm a sartorial man of splendor, not the average iGent."

Today, then, was one of those days. However, by the time this evenings festivities come around, I'll be a more subdued gent. Mr. Moss ( @menswearmusings) had a post about in my words, "we former try-hard iGents." Those sort who want everyone to know just how resplendently dressed and fabulously conversational we are in regard to all things sartorial.

The truth is that no one gives a darn. Outside of us illuminated ones, no one cares about soft shoulders, trouser breaks, or loafer vamps. And why should they? The world is awash in chaos, and the like. There then are more important things to worry about. May we never assume that our conversations about esoteric things are more important than “importanter” things.

The world is dark enough, may we use our spreez for good and not evil. For the enlightenment of the interwebs and not cruelty.

[woollenhulls]

Japanese Ivy today

The 2017 A/W collection from Beams Plus is well worth a look, and makes an interesting case study of contemporary Japanese “Ivy” in light of W David Marx’s Ametora (preview here).

It’s never been my thing, precisely, but I’ve always admired the combination of relaxed cool and quiet formality that Ivy style at its best exemplifies. To my mind it’s also a more comfortable way to combine “sporting” and “city” clothing: the shaggy dog sweaters and soft shouldered jackets, the loafers and corduroy and flannel all work together without the need for careful pairing. Like the southern Italian looks dominating the internet menswear scene now, it retains some traditional aspects of men’s tailoring without the rigid rules or mood of strict business dress. The British method of dressing down tailoring with “country” fabrics and items works too, of course: Barbours, tweed and wellingtons, but to my mind Ivy is a more interesting take on the combination of classic cuts and casual fabrics---tweed, flannel and Oxford cloth.

The British country tailored look is strongly associated with the landowning gentry class. (To get a sense of the social codes at work, you could do far worse than consult the archives of the great social anthropological study “Look at my fucking red trousers.”) The style of tweed and (red) corduroy in the winter and boating blazers and (red) chinos in summer is a conscious class signal (or more commonly an aspiration) for plenty of people, and for the same reasons looks try-hard to plenty of others. In this way “farming” clothing is quite unlike American workwear, for instance, and has little to do with labouring, because it’s the workwear of a class that traditionally didn’t work.

Ivy, on the other hand, has many influences working at once: East coast patricians, yes, but also jazz and college town academic prestige, even if the last was always more widespread as a marketing effort aimed at New York rather than New Haven. Add to that the difficult relation of post-war Japan to the United States, and you have a seriously complex phenomenon. 

(There’s another crossover, Ivy and Italian tailoring, particularly in the work of Antonio Ciongoli of Eidos via Michael Bastian, though this is probably a topic for @menswearmusings.)

Here are a few selected items from the Beams catalogue. 

Heavy tweed trousers with side tabs, belt loops and a rear cinch. (Homage or waist adjustment fetish? You decide.)

A brushed cardigan distinctly reminiscent of the old J Press “Shaggy Dog” sweaters.

A necessary crossover piece, a denim button-down (though I think I’d rather wear this version from another Japanese inheritor of Brooks Brothers, Kamakura)

And for good measure, a blackwatch flannel 3-roll-2 jacket, part-lined, triple-patch (flapped patch pockets, even!) that seems to be the result of the designer picking every possible element on the Ivy mood board and cramming them into one item. (I’m half-surprised there’s no Yale Bulldog pin in the lapel.)

...And here are a few of their American Ivy cousins:

See also:

The Armoury F/W Lookbook

Sartorial Geography: On British Ready-to-Wear

A flying visit to Anglo-Italian

[shortofshoes]

Had to snag a pair of these icons before they were gone and it would seem gone they are. No longer on @brooksbrothers website, the iconic @aldenshoeco LHS in unlined cordovan. . . I actually grabbed two pairs so if anyone is interested in a size 8D DM me! . . Shoutouts to @burzanblog @menswearmusings @dontshineyourshoes , pretty sure I got the heads up from these fine gentlemen about these being on sale/discontinued! . . #goodyearwelted #styleforum #classicmenswear #classicmenstyle #styleblogger #dapper #gentleman #kotd #menwithstyle #shoeporn #shoestagram #rakish #goodyearwelt #stylegram #fashionformen #alden #aldenarmy #loafers #pennyloafers #lhs #aldenlhs #snuffsuede #mnswr #leisurehandsewn #madeinamerica #madeinusa #cordovan #burzanhands https://ift.tt/2TeBDOM

[menswearmusings]

Suit + boots. Chocolate suede @beckettsimonon Chelsea boots with my navy suit, which is an old Eidos suit. Watch @omega, frames @warbyparker, square @theanthology. Everything else is old Eidos! . . #menswear #wiwt #ootdmen #whatiwore #menswearmusings #nashvillestyle #nashvilleblogger #naahvillemenswear https://www.instagram.com/p/COs2lL9LtRY/?utm_medium=tumblr

[oxfords---notbrogues]

@menswearmusings

[kentwang]

Featuring @menswearmusings, wearing our Grenadine Navy Pindot Tie. Our grenadine navy pindot is more casual than our plain navy. But, it can also pair nicely with a slightly more formal ensemble, like this white shirt and textured navy hopsack. https://www.kentwang.com/accessories/ties/grenadine-navy-pindot.html

[styleforumnet]

Is it possible to create a stylish wardrobe with a grand total of five sportcoats? @menswearmusings thinks it is.