#calcium reactor media

[melodromacy]

hot take for you saltwater reefers out there

your test kits arent worth $50 for a plastic egg with some leds, 2 10ml vials i can get for like 50 cents each, a plastic 10 cent syringe and some Special Juice

your zoanthid corals arent worth $50+ because they're called "gorilla's nipples" (actual zoanthid cultivar name...)

your other corals that are maybe a quarter in size aren't worth $400 because they're called "OG Jamie Fox Money Shot Booty Bounce" or whatever you're just stupid

your fancy air bubbler that sucks foam out of the water (literally anything can do that? its just a tube, an air stone, and airline with an output for the skimmate) is not worth $80 even for the smallest one

your ~fancy soda ash co2 scrubber omg~ you can make cheaply using bulk materials, airline, and some plastic tube isnt worth $100+

your chaetomorpha isn't worth $30 when people are throwing pounds of it away because nobody will buy it

your pulsing xenia frag isn't worth $20, people are throwing it out of their tanks and you only want to give a thumb sized frag anyway

your green star polyp with 1 (one) head isnt worth $20 when people are also throwing it out of their tanks by the pound because they hate it

your calcium reactor isn't worth $200, it's easier to diy and just buy a cheaper version of the media

your asterina stars arent worth $20 for 10. i shouldnt even have to explain this people are throwing hundreds of dozens of them out by the day and you want me to pay $20? for ten of them? For food for a later invertebrate i plan on keeping?

you aren't better because youve been in the hobby longer, you just look like a snob who won't give anybody else advice because google is free. also, it's not "too much trouble" to ship something locally when you'd do it for anybody else from minnesota or oregon.

some people can't diy, you cucks.

your clownfish aren't worth $30. they're literally the generic clownfish from anywhere you can get and you want me to pay that much? please

also a plastic frag rack which is literally just a sheet of acrylic with a hole drilled in it isn't worth $30 because it has special colors like ooooh i can paint mine too youre not special

[aquaticsealife]

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If you want to add a unique and contemporary look to any space, a cylinder aquarium can help you achieve this look. The acrylic cylinder aquarium has a compact design and a long list of features that make this style of aquarium so popular. If you’re looking for a way to make a boring old room look attractive or enhance the design of a commercial space, installing a cylinder aquarium will give you exactly what you need without taking up a lot of space like other aquariums do.

The shape, style, design and the ease of use of Pro Clear acrylic cylinders make it ideal for anyone who would like to showcase their collection of fish and reef. Acrylic is now preferred over glass because it gives a much clearer view into the water. Equipped with a complete plug and play experience, the cylinder aquariums are very easy to install and can be up and running in just a few minutes.

No more hassle about which part goes where! Cylinder aquariums by Pro Clear have RGB LED lights included in them. This can highlight the best features of your aquarium and make it glow in the dark too. Watch lights enhance the beauty of your fishes in the cylinder aquarium. Your imagination is the only limit when you install a cylinder aquarium. You can spice it up in any way you like to add more beauty to it.

The Pro Clear cylinder line of aquariums contains combos that include a tank, canopy, air pump, return pump, LED lighting and a stand. The acrylic combo unit includes pre plumbed filtration which is perfect for both saltwater and freshwater system setups. It also has a silent pump system and a bottom drain through which water can be changed easily. Acrylic has a much higher impact resistance than traditional glass.

Summary:

Glass can shatter under impact whereas acrylic will stay strong and durable. Having an aquarium built from acrylic instead of glass also has many other benefits such as perfect visibility, high transparency and the ability to easily remove scratches through polishing. There’s far less distortion in acrylic as compared to glass. Cylinder aquariums are perfect to be viewed from a complete 360 degrees without any disfigurement.

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[coraltipia]

JBJ 28g Nano aquarium, fully stocked with upgrades/extras - $1600

This is a very well established and mature tank looking for a serious buyer. I've tricked out every element of this guy, but I'm moving across country in a few months and need to find a good home. Feel free to email me with any questions

I've kept a relatively up to date blog (coraltopia dot com), keep an active facebook page (fb dot com/coraltopia) and run an active twitter stream (@coraltopia) if you want to see more updates/pictures that have gone into this. The tank is show room ready with extensively upgraded lighting (HQ with actinic add ons), includes wireless network connectivity, full controller integration (APEX lite), a BRAND new stand and chiller, as well as a FULL livestock setup. Details are below, WILL NOT PART OUT.

Buyer takes all and must come pickup. I'll help with breaking down, but will not help you transport or provide any type of packing or shipping containers. Full breakdown is below, along with suggested retail prices on all items. This tank would cost you well over $4000 to setup if you went to a store a and picked it up.

========= Hardware ========= JBJ28g HQI + stand ($700 new) Aquamaxx HOB-1 Skimmer ($200 new) InTank media basket ($50 new) Mini Arctica Chiller ($400 new) APEX Lite Controler ($350 new) Netgear game controller ($40 new) Nano Tuners Actinic Upgrade (~ $50 new) 30lbs live rock (~$50 retail) 30lbs Fiji Pink Substrate = (~$60 new) 2lF Phosban Reactor ($40 new) MJ600 (~$20 new) MJ1200 x2 (~$20 new) Koralia1 (~$30 new) Eheim automatic feeder (~$25 new) BRS 75 GPD RO/DI 5 Stage Drinking and Reef Water System (all hookups, hoses, etc...) (~$200 new) Dual Inline TDS Meter DM-1 HM Digital (~$30 new)

======== Misc ======== Water jugs 5gal x2 (~$10/per new) Water jug 2.5gal (~$10 new) Elos Calcium (~$20 new) Elos Phosphate (~$20 new) Elos Magnesium (~$20 new) Elos Alkalinity (~$20 new) Pumps (4-5) MJ1200 x2, MJ900, MJ600 Calcium, Alkalinity, Reef Trace, Reef Iodine, Pure (water treatment)

========= Livestock ========= Mated Onyx Misbar Clowns Cleaner Shrimp (~25 new) Clean up crew (snails, hermit crabs, etc ...) California Tort Large (3") x 4 Neon Green (Kryptonite) Candy Cane (2 heads) (Apple? )Hammer Coral Small medium x3 (go for $80/per at ATL) Orange Crush Ricordia Small (3 heads) Orange Crush Ricordia Small (10+ heads) Meteor shower Cyphaestra (1.5" plug - go for $40 at ATL) x3 Ultra Orange Digitata x3 (4" multi branch - go for $80 per at ATL) Hollywood Stunner Chalice (1") x4 Hollywood Stunner Chalice (2") x2 Hollywood Stunner Chalice (3") x2 Surf and Turf (2") x3 TRPE Paly (3+ heads) Green Sparkle Paly (5+ heads) Lunar Eclipse Paly (10+ heads) Purple Joker Paly = (10+ heads)

[loadthree979]

Na Atomic Number

Sodium is a soft, bright, silvery metal which floats on water.

Sodium

Atomic Number:11Atomic Radius:227 pm (Van der Waals)Atomic Symbol:NaMelting Point:97.8 °CAtomic Weight:22.99 Boiling Point:883 °CElectron Configuration:(Ne)3s1Oxidation States:1

Na+1 Atomic Number

The Avogadro constant is named after the Italian scientist Amedeo Avogadro (1776–1856), who, in 1811, first proposed that the volume of a gas (at a given pressure and temperature) is proportional to the number of atoms or molecules regardless of the nature of the gas.

Sodium is a chemical element with symbol Na and atomic number 11. Classified as a n alkali metal, Sodium is a solid at room temperature.

It provides atomic mass, mass excess, nuclear binding energy, nucleon separation energies, Q-values, and nucleon residual interaction parameters for atomic nuclei of the isotope Na-25 (Sodium, atomic number Z = 11, mass number A = 25). Name: Sodium Symbol: Na Atomic Number: 11 Atomic Mass: 22.98977 amu Melting Point: 97.72 °C (370.87 K, 207.9 °F) Boiling Point: 883 °C (1156 K, 1621 °F) Number of Protons/Electrons: 11 Number of Neutrons: 12 Classification: Alkali Metal Crystal Structure: Cubic Density @ 293 K: 0.971 g/cm 3 Color: silvery Atomic Structure.

History

From the English word, soda; Medieval Latin, sodanum: a headache remedy. Long recognized in compounds, sodium was first isolated by Davy in 1807 by electrolysis of caustic soda.

Sources

Sodium is present in fair abundance in the sun and stars. The D lines of sodium are among the most prominent in the solar spectrum. Sodium is the fourth most abundant element on earth, comprising about 2.6% of the earth's crust; it is the most abundant of the alkali group of metals.

Transmission brakes (transbrakes) have been available for the TH400 for decades. The concept of using a transbrake is to produce the fastest possible acceleration from a standing start. Transbrakes are used specifically for drag racing. A transbrake is activated by a driver-controlled switch that connects to a solenoid mounted on the transmission. Th400 transbrake. TH400 Trans Brake Installation Instructions made simple from FTI Performance. This step by step detailed information on installing a standard turbo 400 transmission brake will take you from start to finish of the installation. The new cast aluminum T400 SuperCase is the result of over 2 years of development. BTE's TH400 transmission with transbrake is a durable and high performance three speed transmission for all racing types.

It is now obtained commercially by the electrolysis of absolutely dry fused sodium chloride. This method is much cheaper than that of electrolyzing sodium hydroxide, as was used several years ago.

Compounds

The most common compound is sodium chloride (table salt), but it occurs in many other minerals, such as soda niter, cryolite, amphibole, zeolite, etc.

Properties

Sodium, like every reactive element, is never found free in nature. Sodium is a soft, bright, silvery metal which floats on water. Decomposition in water results in the evolution of hydrogen and the formation of the hydroxide. It may or may not ignite spontaneously on water, depending on the amount of oxide and metal exposed to the water. It normally does not ignite in air at temperatures below 115°C.

Uses

Metallic sodium is vital in the manufacture of esters and in the preparation of organic compounds. The metal may be used to improve the structure of certain alloys, descale metal, and purify molten metals.

An alloy of sodium with potassium, NaK, is an important heat transfer agent.

Compounds

Sodium compounds are important to the paper, glass, soap, textile, petroleum, chemical, and metal industries. Soap is generally a sodium salt of certain fatty acids. The importance of common salt to animal nutrition has been recognized since prehistoric times.

Among the many compounds that are of the greatest industrial importance are common salt (NaCl), soda ash (Na2CO3), baking soda (NaHCO3), caustic soda (NaOH), Chile saltpeter (NaNO3), di- and tri-sodium phosphates, sodium thiosulfate (hypo, Na2S2O3 • 5H2O), and borax (Na2B4O7 • 10H2O).

Top 10 Movies Daniel Craig. Release Calendar DVD & Blu-ray Releases Top Rated Movies Most Popular Movies Browse Movies by Genre Top Box Office Showtimes & Tickets Showtimes & Tickets In Theaters Coming Soon Coming Soon Movie News India Movie Spotlight. Clue movie remake. One of the British theatre's most famous faces, Daniel Craig, who waited tables as a struggling teenage actor with the National Youth Theatre, has gone on to star as James Bond in Casino Royale (2006), Quantum of Solace (2008), Skyfall (2012), Spectre (2015), and No Time to Die (2021). He was born Daniel Wroughton Craig on March 2, 1968, at 41.

Citrix workspace silent install. You can install Citrix Workspace app for Windows using the installation media, a network share, Windows Explorer, or a command line by manually running the CitrixWorkspaceApp.exe installer package. Launch the CitrixWorkspaceApp.exe file and click Start. Read and accept the End User License Agreement and proceed with the installation. If you are attempting the installation on a domain-joined ma.

Isotopes

Thirteen isotopes of sodium are recognized.

Handling

Sodium metal should be handled with great care. It cannot be maintained in an inert atmosphere and contact with water and other substances with which sodium reacts should be avoided.

Sky go app on macbook. Sodium, like the other alkali metals (Group I), is a sivery-white metal of very high chemical reactivity.

Sodium is one of the big 8 elements in the Earth's crust, being the sixth most abundant element at about 2.8% by weight. It is a constituent of the plagioclase form of feldspar, one of the most abundant minerals on the earth.

The most important compound of sodium is sodium chloride, NaCl (common table salt). It crystallizes as colorless cubes. Comprising 3% of sea water and also occurring in large solid deposits and underground salt brines, NaCl is an abundant mineral. In crystalline form it is given the mineral name halite. It is important as an electrolyte in human blood and plasma, which contain about 0.9 grams of NaCl per 100 ml.

Na Atomic Number Of Protons

Sodium chloride is used for the extraction of metallic sodium and gaseous chlorine, as well as for preparation of other compounds of these elements.

Sodium borates such as borax (sodium tetraborate decahydrate, Na2B4O7. 10H2O), kernite (sodium tetraborate tetrahydrate, Na2B4O7. 4H2O), and colemanite (calcium hexaborate pentahydrate, Ca2B6O11. 5H2O) along with tincalconite form vast deposits of boron in California .

Sodium sulfate is found in mineral form as Thenardite.

A phosphate of aluminum and sodium is Wardite.

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is a very important laboratory reagent and a widely used industrial chemical. Imessage on chromebook. Called caustic soda, it is very corrosive to the skin. It is used in the manufacture of soap, the refining of petroleum, the manufacture of paper, textiles, rayon, cellulose film, and many other products.

Na Atomic Number And Mass

The properties of liquid sodium metal make it useful as a coolant in fast breeder reactors and as a heat transfer agent for very high temperature reactions.

NaCl

Na Atomic Number

NaOH

Atomic dataNuclear data

Na-24 Atomic Number

Sodium spectrumSodium Zeeman effectEnergy level diagram

[teruyalab]

© Peter Eichler (reefkeeping.com)

Read more at teruyalab.com

For many years I have looked at the tank of the month as something to take inspiration from and to aspire to. So I was particularly honored and excited when I was informed my aquarium would be featured as tank of the month for April. The timing was a bit disconcerting, but if you’re reading this now, it’s not just some sick April fool’s joke designed to mess with an aquarium junkie!

My Aquarium Journey

I have had an aquarium in my home for as long as I can remember. My first tank, a stainless steel framed slate bottom 20 gallon aquarium, was set-up prior to my ability to remember. Around the age of 11, my mother and I were shopping for some bird and fish supplies at the local pet shop. That shop had recently added a salt water section, and I was absolutely transfixed by the dazzling colors and amazing variety of fish. I was instantly hooked, and soon talked my mother into helping me buy a new aquarium.

My first saltwater aquarium… 30 gallons of pure joy and anguish all in one! Under gravel filter: check. Non-submersible heater: check. Random bleached and dead coral decorations: check. Condylactus anemones, “live rock” full of sponges, an “Assorted Butterfly” and a powder brown tang for my first non-damselfish: you bet! As you may be guessing, that didn’t end so well. I was heartbroken to fail so miserably, but I was more driven than ever. Driven by my failure, over the next five years I read every aquarium book and publication available, every marine biology text book in existence., I studied fish nutrition and developed my own frozen fish food line, expanded my aquarium collection to over 10 marine aquariums, bred dozens of species of clownfish and Tanganyika and Malawi cichlids, and managed the marine section at the best fish store in the area. Did I mention I was hooked?

In the 25 years or so that have followed, some of that intensity I had for the hobby had to take a backseat to school, girls, partying, getting married, having children, buying a house, and all the things we all do as we grow up and try to become responsible members of society. However, no matter what my situation, I’ve always been a part of this hobby and have done what I can to gain a greater understanding of these wonderful creatures we keep. The tank you’re about to see and read more about is the result of my journey through this hobby.

System Profile

• Display: 156 gallon (575L) Oceanic with Starphire Glass (60in x 24in x 24in) • Sump: 100 gallon stock tank • Frag and Anemone Tank: Deep Blue 45 gallon / 45 Gallon Marineland Cube • Skimmer: SWC 250A • Calcium Reactor: GEO 624 with Aquarium Plants Carbon Doser • Heaters: 300W Visitherms x2

• Lighting: 250W Radiums with LB III Reflectors & Lumatek Variable Watt Ballast • Filtration: Nothing other than the skimmer & a rarely used media reactor • Return Pump: Laguna Max-Flo 1500 pump for the display and Cube

• Circulation: Ecotech MP40s x3 (CLICK TO SHOP)

• Chemical Filtration: GAC run every month or two for a few days • Rock: A mix of 10 year old Uaniva live rock, Dry Pukani, & Fiji rock • Sandbed: One inch deep special grade Aragonite

Current System

My main display sits on a half finished, yet sturdy, homemade stand in my ugly old basement. Three tanks, a 45 gallon frag tank, 45 cube anemone tank, and the 156 gallon display all flow into a central sump. Hopefully my next home will have a much larger tank on display in a living area, but for now the ability to be messy and worry only about the function of the aquarium has it perks.

The display, as the rock sits now, is about three years old. But, this tank was set-up back in 2010 as a transfer from an overgrown 65 gallon reef I started 10 years ago. Many of the current corals have been grown from frags of colonies I grew in that 65. A little over three years ago my tank had gone into some disrepair because I was traveling extensively for work, and thanks to some zoanthids that wanted to take over my tank. I decided to rededicate myself and turn things around by redoing roughly half the rockwork, fragging many dying corals, and doing a couple large water changes.

Philosophy

A big skimmer, quality light, a lot of flow, and a decent stock level of fish that are fed heavily, are my basic keys to success. When I had my fish food company I learned early on that feeding heavily was in the best interest of my inhabitants. I feel tanks will adapt and adjust over time to extra food coming in. Sometimes grazers are a big help here. With a good and oversized protein skimmer, you can feed heavy and still be successful. Whether or not phosphate will need to be controlled via other means will depend on the system, but don’t let phosphate addition keep you from feeding your inhabitants regularly.

Water Parameters:

Salinity: 35ppt

pH: not measured

Calcium: 480 ppm

Alkalinity: 7 dKH

Magnesium: 1450

Phosphate: Undetectable - 0.2ppm

Nitrate: Undetectable - 5ppm

Temperature: 75 - 83˚F depending on time of day

Maintenance

I do water changes when I feel like it, but try to do a 50 gallon change on my roughly 250 gallon system every two to four weeks. I’ll also throw in a 100 gallon change every year or so. I fill the calcium reactor when the media is low, I fill the CO2 when I see the pressure drop on my tank, and I clean the glass when I’m feeling motivated and see it’s dirty. GAC is run for a few days when I notice the water is has a slight yellow tinge when looking through the side glass the length of the tank. RO/DI filters are changed whenever I’ve exhausted two full DI resins.

The biggest maintenance has become figuring out what to clip, prune, move, or even remove as corals grow into large colonies. It’s a good problem to have, but is proving at times far more difficult than maintaining a younger aquarium.

As far as maintaining parameters, there’s a fairly wide acceptable range for me. I purposely encourage the temperature in my tank to fluctuate throughout the day. Less than 75 and I throw another heater in the sump. On the high side I don’t really get concerned in summer until beyond 85, though having the tank in the basement prevents that from being much of a concern. I try to maintain my dKH around 7, but I don’t fret too much if it gets a little higher or lower. 6-8 dKH is my preferred range. Calcium, as long as it’s over 400, I’m happy, and I’ve never seen much difference between 400 and 550. I test alkalinity (API) several times a week, calcium (API) every month or two, magnesium (Salifert) a few times a year, and nitrate (Red Sea) and phosphate (Hanna) when I feel like it.

Supplements

I’ve dabbled with just about every supplement and form of dosing imaginable. However, for most of the last 10 years I’ve done little else besides maintain calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium.

For the last year and a half I’ve been experimenting with dosing potassium nitrate and sodium nitrate to keep nitrates detectable, so nitrate has been tested more frequently of late. I no longer have to use GFO to keep phosphates low. As a result I have to feed heavier and be cautious about skipping feedings or else corals will lighten in color and show signs of stress. I can’t attribute this shift in naturally low phosphates to much else other than the Redfield ratio and my dosing of a nitrate source, but that’s based on speculation and anecdotal evidence. I could probably solve the issues with my phosphates and nitrates being too low by downsizing my skimmer, but finding that perfect size is a difficult task.

One thing I am very confident of from all my years of “experimenting”… When It comes to supplements, simply maintaining the big three elements is all that’s needed to have a great aquarium.

Stability and Breaking from the Norms

Stability is something I feel is often hyped too much within the hobby. I have encouraged fluctuations in temperature for many years on my tanks. I won’t hesitate to boost my magnesium by a few hundred PPM or calcium by 100 ppm in one shot if they’re getting low. If my alkalinity jumps by 1-2 dKH from a water change I’m not worried. Though I would prefer to keep these stable, I don’t see much detriment to small dips and spikes. I have seen issues from dKH rising above 9 dKH in my lower nutrient tank, so I do whatever I can to avoid this. Stability certainly isn’t a bad thing to shoot for, but I feel stability within a range should be the focus. Having stable parameters that are outside desirable ranges is where the problem really lies, not with small fluctuations.

Livestock Inhabitants Coral:

Nearly all corals grown from small frags. All Goniopora have been in the system for at least two years and have shown considerable growth.

Acropora

RR Red Bull

RR CJ’s Pinky

RR Sabertooth

RR Wolverine

RR Prometheus

RR The Vinh

RR Purple Dragon Eyes

SC Orange Passion

Greg Hiller’s Aqua Delight

Original SSC Sapphire millepora

Purple Slimer

Tyree Lime in the Sky

Tyree Mr. Pacman

Tyree Pink Lemonade

Tyree Phonape Birdsnest

Tyree Soli

Bananas Suharsoni

SunnyX Sunset mille

Ultimate’s Rainbow

CITR Red Dragon

CC Blue Valkyrie

CC Red Oxide

CC Grape Lemonade

ORA Hawkin’s

ORA Red Planet

ORA Joe the Coral

ORA Scripps mille

ORA Ice Tort

Oregon Tort

Royal Blue Tort

Miyagi Tort

PC Rainbow

Garf Bonsai

Rommel’s Watermelon

Copp’s Azure Stag

Copp’s Hulk mille

DFS Pink Panther

Aquascenes Icefire echinata

Green Turaki

Original SSC

$500 Efflo

Upscales microclados

Highlighter stag

Rouge mille

Bubblegum mille

Sapphire mille

Mr. Pacman

Several no names and some I’m forgetting

Montipora and Porites

Setosa

Rainbow

Sunset

Season’s Greetings

Idaho Grape

Starburst Cap

Sand dollar

Eruzione

Favia

Mia’s Pot of Gold

Christmas

Raptor’s Peace

Goniopora

Goniopora stutchburyi

Goniopora burgosi

Goniopora palmensis

Goniopora planulata

4 x unknown species

Zoanthids

Fruitloops

Spidermans

Utter Chaos

Rastas

Vivid Rainbows

Purple hornets

Red hornets

Goochsters

Bambams

Pink elephants

Sopranos

VDM

Challices

Crazy Fox

OG Mummy Eye

Miami Hurricane

Red

Fish:

Some of these are in my frag tank and anemone tank, I buy small Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus tangs and always have at least a couple in my frag tank, I will sell them or trade them as they start to get too big for that tank.

Purple Tang (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

Powder Brown Tang (Acanthurus japonicas)

Chevron Tang (Ctenochaetus hawaiiensis)

Tomini Tang (Ctenochaetus tomini)

Yellow Tang (Zebrasoma flavescens)

Magnificent Foxface (Siganis magnificus)

Pseudochomis Fridmani

Pseudochromis spingeri

Pseudochromis aldabraensis x Pseudochromis springeri

Bangaii Cardinal (Pterapogon kauderni)

Copperband Butterfly (Chelmon rostratus)

Melanurus Wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus)

Marine Betta (Calloplesiops altivelis)

Golden Damsel (Amblyglyphidodon aureus) x2

Whitetail Dottyback (Manonichthys cf. alleni)

Acknowledgements

First and foremost I would like to thank my mother. She loved this hobby as much as I do, and was always supportive and full of love and encouragement. This held true not just for me, but for anyone that was lucky enough to meet her.

Thanks to all the reefers who take the time to share their thoughts and opinions in order to help others succeed. Thanks to the forums out there, (RC, Wisconsin Reef Society) that give people a place to learn and share ideas. Thanks to Brian, Judy, Kevin, Laura, Tyler and Mark at Best Fish for being a part of one of the best local fish stores in the country.

Thanks to my wife and past roommates who have allowed me to do my thing without complaint; even with condensation on windows, puddles on the floors, and a salty crust forming on just about everything near the tank.

Lastly, big thanks to the gang from the SPS forum and for all the kinds words and simply being a good and helpful group of reefers, an especially large thanks to Sahin and those reefers that took the time to nominate my tank! It’s always a great feeling when peers recognize the hard work that is put into something. Thanks for reading!

[burningbaal]

DIY calcium reactor idea

I saw a koi guy that made giant filter media reactors out of 5g buckets. he’d put a bulkhead in the lid and another (offset) in the bottom, run the pipes internally past each other so the water had to move from the lid, to (almost) the bottom of the bucket, then up through the media to the other pipe opening, then fall down through the bottom bulkhead and back to the koi tank.

I’m thinking of an alternative for a giant calcium reactor.

Materials

1x -  5g bucket and a really tight lid (like this one)

1x - 4″ (or so) diameter of acrylic tube, or a 4″ square acrylic box. anything water-tight and reef-safe will do fine, but clear is best. Add a bottom to this with weld-on or similar -- no top on this.

1x - venturi pump and CO2 setup (recommend a pH-controlled CO2 source)

2x - pvc bulkheads appropriate to the pump, maybe 1/2″ or 3/4″. One extra o-ring/seal for the bulkhead, or lots of silicone is probably fine.one for the effluent

2x - Airline bulkheads. one with airline on both sides, the other one-sided

4ft of airline for CO2 recirculation needs, plus length from CO2 tank to venturi (through controller) and enough length to get the effluent to the destination (the fuge for me)

Misc PVC pipe for recirculation, airline for inlet/effluent, probably other things

2 low profile screens that screw/slip into the bulkheads and keep the media out of the pump.

TBD screen material to sit on the acrylic tube. I might use a thin sheet of acrylic with drilled holes

Manifold outlet for source water (with gate/needle valve) or a standalone pump for the same.

Basic idea

connect the outlet of the venturi pump to a bulkhead near the edge on the bottom of the bucket with no pipe inside the bucket.

Put the acrylic tube in the middle of the bucket, so the covered base is against the bottom of the bucket. the acrylic tube should go most of the way up the bucket, but not quite to the top

Connect the acrylic tube with a bulkhead so one o-ring is between the bulkhead and the acrylic, the other between the acrylic and the bucket. (you could pile silicone under the acrylic instead of the extra o-ring if desired).This bulkhead leads to the venturi pump’s inlet for recirculation of the acidic water.

Connect the CO2 source to the venturi

Tee in the tank water source (ie, manifold) to the inlet of the venturi pump, as it comes from the bucket’s recirculation output. Make sure there’s a fine-adjustment valve before the tank water enters the line.

Put one screen about an inch up from the bottom outside the acrylic tube and another about the same height inside the acrylic tube (the media sits on thise)

Optionally put another screen sitting on the top of the acrylic tube with holes all over so water can escape the outside and enter the inside, but the media stays in place. This can easily be held in place with a few scraps of acrylic adhered to the lid that are the right height to push this top screen down against the acrylic tube.

Put the effluent bulkhead in the lid of the bucket. Run a small piece of airline under the lid (above the screen/media level) so this doesn’t suck trapped CO2 off the top of the bucket. 1/2″ is probably plenty. Run the outide of this bulkhead via airline to your effluent location (for me: the fuge)

Put the second airline bulkhead on the lid with minimal insertion into the lid so it pulls any trapped CO2 off the top.this airline runs back down to the inlet of the venturi pump so any excess CO2 that builds up at the top of the reactor gets sucked back into the venturi for re-use.

note: the effluent line is left open w/o restriction in this idea, which means the reactor operates with no real pressure. you could add a valve on the outlet to force some pressure, but it makes sense to me to throttle the input water, not the output. Also, this means it should purge pretty well when starting up, the effluent line will just blow out a bunch of air until it’s filled up. you could add another purge valve if you prefer.

Run the effluent to some kind of box so the pH can be monitored there, or add a fitting to the lid of the bucket so a pH probe can be there.

This up-then-down design is a bit more complicated (you could leave out the acrylic tube and just have a standpipe in the middle bulkhead instead), but I think it gives real advantages because the media should have faster water movement, which should keep things more even. Also the pump plumbing is very short, which is nifty. I do wonder about just putting the recirculation intake in the lid with a giant pile of media in the bucket, then there might not be need for the separate CO2 recirculation, but I’m not sure the trapped air would really get pushed through the larger pipe, so I think this is better.

Changing media and cleaning

Turn off the CO2 source and close the inlet from the manifold

optional: pop the effluent out of the bulkhead to get it out of the way

Unscrew lid, optional: put a slip-fit (or loosely applied threaded) plug in the standpipe if you want

note: adding unions between the bulkheads and recirculation pump as well as between the manifold and the reactor would make this easier. This way, the whole bucket/reactor can be removed for cleaning, and the pump removed from the reactor to clean it.

pull the bottom screen out to clean it, also clean the top screen

replace bottom screen, pour in media, replace top screen

optional: Fill bucket with tank water (just speeds up the re-start and saves the pump from running mostly-dry at first, also lets you leave the 

screw on lid, replace effluent line, turn on inlet from manifold and CO2 source

Basic function

Water gets trickled into the inlet bulkhead via the needle valve on the manifold, which enters the recirculating flow that goes in the non-standpipe bulkhead, flows up through the media (and screens), then gets pulled down the standpipe into the venturi pump for recirculation. 

As CO2 is dosed in via the controller, the venturi mixes the CO2 into the recirculating water, which then re-enters the bucket (reactor).

As more water is allowed into the system from the manifold, the bucket fills up until it hits the lid, then it’s pushed out the effluent bulkhead and through the effluent line. If the effluent line never raises much above the lid (say, an elbow fitting and down to the sump), then there’s virtually no pressure on the system and nothing to worry about. I want to run the effluent up to an elevated fuge, so I’ll have to be thoughtful about making sure the bulkheads and lid are very tight-fitting. Or I might actually put the reactor in the fuge and run the manifold line up to the reactor.

Of course, you can’t see the media, so you’d have to either check periodically, or be quick to notice when the alkalinity/Ca is dropping in the tank. I suppose I could find a clear bucket?

TBD

I know I’m missing something for a bubble counter situation, and the pH controller/solenoid setup is missing. Presumably, I’ll choose something that lets me set the target pH from the reef-pi and set the bubble counter so it can’t push the media much below 6.6 as a safety net. 

Best of all would be to wire something like the AM pinpoint probes for Calcium and Alkilinity to my reef-pi, then I can have continuous monitoring of those values and have the target pH adjusted accordingly (if Ca/Alk rise above my target, move the pH up; if they fall below my target, move the pH down). I think I’ll tend toward the perspective to keep the flow rate relatively high; this will consume a little more CO2 (as it doesn’t all get used before becoming effluent), but that CO2 will be headed to the fuge, so I think it’s mostly a win, and it should stave off issues with overly-melted media crudding things up because of the higher flow rate and the relatively-higher pH it would be running (to achieve the same Ca/Alk ‘dose’ per hour)

The fun part

This probably holds about 4g of media...for most people, that’s about the same as the SRO CR5000D The manufacturer suggests it is good for a 400-600g system, other places say it’s good for 700-1000g...not too shabby. of course you could do this with a different dimension bucket for more/less capacity, but if you have the space, a 5g bucket is just too easy. You could also add a second bucket with uniseals to join the two, one bulkhead each for an 8g capacity. Recirculates from the bottom of one to the bottom of the other. put the effluent bulkhead on the bottom of the second one, run the line above the lids so it doesn’t drain until they are full. But unless you’re worried about CO2 in the effluent, that just seems overkill.

I haven’t priced it out, but I’m thinking everything other than the pump will cost around $100, maybe $150. Even if I spend $300 on the pump (seems unlikely), this thing costs about half of the price for a similar capacity reactor. and it seems like it’ll be pretty easy to make and pretty easy to add media.

Crazy?

[sherristockman]

Properly Filter Your Water Dr. Mercola 30 Tips in 30 Days Designed to Help You Take Control of Your Health This article is part of the 30 Day Resolution Guide series. Each day a new tip will be added designed to help you take control of your health. For a complete list of the tips click HERE By Dr. Mercola Each year, red flags over toxic drinking water are raised across the U.S., with reasons varying from location to location. One major problem is aging water pipes, which have become an increasingly common source of toxic exposure.1 In fact, in a 2013 report,2 the American Society for Civil Engineers warned that most of the drinking water infrastructure across the nation is “nearing the end of its useful life.” The American Water Works Association estimates it would cost more than $1 trillion to update and replace all the water pipes in the U.S. — money that many water utilities do not have. Water pollution is another grave concern, as water treatment plants cannot filter out all of the toxins now entering the water, from firefighting chemicals3 and agricultural chemicals,4,5 to drugs and microcystins, nerve toxins produced by freshwater cyanobacteria.6 Filtering Your Water Is a Health Priority While the U.S. has many water quality concerns, it doesn’t really matter where you live anymore, as many dangerous chemicals find their way into the ecosystem, spreading from one continent to another.7 The take-home message is that, if you care about your health, filtering your household water is more a necessity than an option these days. Ideally, filter the water you use both for drinking and bathing, as immersing yourself in contaminated water may be even more hazardous to your health than drinking it. Chemicals absorbed through your skin go directly into your blood stream, bypassing your digestive- and internal filtration systems. Unfiltered water can also expose you to dangerous chlorine vapors and chloroform gas, which can cause dizziness, fatigue, asthma, airway inflammation and respiratory allergies. Chlorine can vaporize from every toilet bowl in your home and every time you wash your clothes or dishes, or take a shower or bath, so if you get your water from a municipal water supply and don't have a whole house filter, be sure to open windows on opposing sides of your home to cross ventilate. Keep the windows open for five to 10 minutes a day to remove these gases. At-Home Water Filtration Is a Must for Clean Pure Water Most water supplies contain a number of potentially hazardous contaminants at varying levels. Among the worst are disinfection byproducts (DBPs). In water treatment facilities that use chlorine or chloramines to treat and purify the water, toxic DBPs form when these disinfectants react with natural organic matter like decaying vegetation in the source water. These byproducts are over 1,000 times more toxic than chlorine, and of all the toxins and contaminants present in your water, such as fluoride and miscellaneous pharmaceutical drugs, DBPs are likely the most hazardous. Trihalomethanes (THMs), one of the most common DBPs, are Cancer Group B carcinogens, meaning they've been shown to cause cancer in laboratory animals. They've also been linked to reproductive problems in both animals and humans, such as spontaneous abortion, stillbirths and congenital malformations, even at lower levels. These types of DBPs may also: Weaken your immune system Disrupt your central nervous system Damage your cardiovascular system Disrupt your renal system Cause respiratory problems What’s Really in Your Water? If you have well water, it would be prudent to have your water tested for arsenic and other contaminants. If you have public water, you can get a local drinking water quality report from the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).8 The EPA regulates tap water in the U.S., but while there are legal limits on many of the contaminants permitted in municipal water supplies, more than half of the 300-plus chemicals detected in U.S. drinking water are unregulated,9 and some of the legal limits may be too lenient for safety. For a more objective view of your water quality, check out the Tap Water Database10 created by the Environmental Working Group (EWG). In a 2017 analysis, water samples from nearly 50,000 water utilities in 50 states revealed more than 267 different kinds of toxins in U.S. tap water. Of the 267 chemicals detected: 93 are linked to an increased risk of cancer 78 are associated with brain and nervous system damage 63 are suspected of causing developmental harm to children or fetuses 38 may cause fertility problems 45 are linked to hormonal disruption Alarmingly, nearly 19,000 public water systems had lead levels above 3.8 parts per billion, which would put a formula-fed baby at risk of elevated blood lead levels. Other chemicals of concern include: Chromium-6, an industrial chemical that is not regulated under the Safe Drinking Water Act but is found in drinking water in all 50 states at levels above those that may pose a cancer risk 1,4-dioxane, an industrial solvent, was widely detected at levels above what the EPA says could pose a cancer risk Nitrates, stemming from industrial agriculture, were also found at potentially risky levels Choosing a Water Filtration System Unless you can verify the purity of your water, seriously consider installing a high quality, whole-house water filtration system. Ideally, filter the water both at the point of entry and at the point of use. This means filtering all the water that comes into the house, and then filtering again at the kitchen sink and shower. As for the type of filtration system to get, there are a variety of options, most of which have both benefits and drawbacks. Here are a few of the most common options: • Reverse osmosis (RO) — In addition to removing chlorine, inorganic and organic contaminants in your water, RO will also remove about 80 percent of fluoride and most DPBs. Drawbacks include the need for frequent cleaning, to avoid bacterial growth. Your best alternative is to use a tankless RO system with a compressor. The expense is another factor, as you may need the assistance of a plumber to get the system up and running. RO will also remove many valuable minerals and trace elements along with harmful contaminants. • Ion exchange — Ion exchange is designed to remove dissolved salts in the water, such as calcium. This system also softens the water and helps prevent the creation of scale buildup. The ion exchange system was originally used in boilers and other industrial situations before becoming popular in home purifying units, which usually combine the system with carbon for greater effectiveness. While advantages include a high flow rate and low maintenance cost, Sciencing points out the disadvantages, which include “calcium sulfate fouling, iron fouling, adsorption of organic matter, organic contamination from the resin, bacterial contamination and chlorine contamination.”11 • Granular carbon and carbon block filters — These are the most common types of countertop and undercounter water filters. Granular activated carbon is recognized by the EPA as the best available technology for the removal of organic chemicals like herbicides, pesticides and industrial chemicals. One of its downfalls is that the loose material inside can channel, meaning the water creates pathways through the carbon material, thereby escaping filtering. Carbon block filters offer the same superior filtering ability but are compressed with the carbon medium in a solid form. This eliminates channeling and gives the ability to precisely combine multiple media in a sub-micron filter cartridge. By combining different media, the ability to selectively remove a wide range of contaminants can be achieved. Ideally, you want a filtration system that uses a combination of methods to remove contaminants, as this will ensure the removal of the widest variety of contaminants. One of the best filtration systems I’ve found so far is the Pure & Clear Whole House Water Filtration System, which uses a three-stage filtration process consisting of a micron sediment pre-filter, a KDF water filter, and a high-grade carbon water filter.12 Here’s a picture of what the setup looks like. Avoid Fluoridated Water One of the most pernicious toxins in American water supplies is fluoride. While it’s not healthy for anyone, pregnant women and households mixing formula for babies should take extra care to avoid fluoridated water, as bottle-fed babies are at significant risk of getting too much fluoride. Even low doses of this chemical have been shown to alter thyroid function and childhood brain development, and lower IQ in exposed children. Fluoride is also a mitochondrial poison that sabotages your mitochondria's ability to create cellular energy, and an enzymatic reactor, meaning it reacts with enzymes in your body. Moreover, fluoride leaches lead out of old pipes, which further magnifies its neurological risks. Unfortunately, fluoride is a very small molecule, making it difficult to filter out once added to your water supply. Any simple countertop carbon filter like Brita will not remove it. If you have a whole-house carbon filtration system that has a large volume of carbon, it may reduce the fluoride, as fluoride removal is in direct proportion to the amount of fluoride and the time it's in contact with the media. It's just not going to get it all. Among the more effective filtering systems for fluoride removal are: Reverse osmosis Water distillation (which, like RO, also removes beneficial minerals). You then would need to restructure the water through chilling and/or vortexing. I do not recommend using distilled water on a regular basis, however, as it may cause mineral deficiencies Bone char filters and biochar Clearly, the simplest, most effective, most cost-effective strategy is to not put fluoride in the water to begin with. To learn more about fluoride, I highly recommend getting a copy of Dr. Paul Connett's book, "The Case Against Fluoride." You can also download my free report on water fluoridation for more information on the bad science and political agendas that got this toxic chemical in your drinking water. The Importance of Living Water for Optimal Health In addition to filtering your water, consider drinking more “living” or “structured” water. In his book, “The Fourth Phase of Water,” Gerald Pollack, Ph.D., reveals the importance of H3O2 (opposed to H2O, which is regular water). This structured water, also known as exclusion zone or EZ water, has very unique properties. It’s more viscous, dense and alkaline than regular water; has a negative charge, and can hold and deliver energy much like a battery. In fact, this is the kind of water found in your cells, and it helps recharge your mitochondria. Water becomes more structured when you apply energy into it. Chilling also works. Two simple ways to structure your water are: Cooling the water to 39 degrees F (about 10 degrees C) Creating a vortex in the water by stirring it with a spoon Another alternative is to collect already structured water. Natural deep springs are an excellent source. The deeper the better, as structured water is created under pressure. There's a website called FindaSpring.com13 where you can find natural springs in your area. Do your homework before setting off to collect water, however, as you may not be allowed to collect water from all springs, even if they’re listed. None of the springs in Florida, for example, are set up to be legally used as sources of potable water. You may also want to check and see if there have been any chemical spills in the area that might affect the purity of the water. A workaround can be to check whether your local state park has a potable well you can use, as they typically draw water from the same sources as the springs.

[coraltipia]

JBJ 28g Nano aquarium, fully stocked with upgrades/extras - $1600

This is a very well established and mature tank looking for a serious buyer. I've tricked out every element of this guy, but I'm moving across country in a few months and need to find a good home. Feel free to email me with any questions

I've kept a relatively up to date blog (coraltopia dot com), keep an active facebook page (fb dot com/coraltopia) and run an active twitter stream (@coraltopia) if you want to see more updates/pictures that have gone into this. The tank is show room ready with extensively upgraded lighting (HQ with actinic add ons), includes wireless network connectivity, full controller integration (APEX lite), a BRAND new stand and chiller, as well as a FULL livestock setup. Details are below, WILL NOT PART OUT.

Buyer takes all and must come pickup. I'll help with breaking down, but will not help you transport or provide any type of packing or shipping containers. Full breakdown is below, along with suggested retail prices on all items. This tank would cost you well over $4000 to setup if you went to a store a and picked it up.

========= Hardware ========= JBJ28g HQI + stand ($700 new) Aquamaxx HOB-1 Skimmer ($200 new) InTank media basket ($50 new) Mini Arctica Chiller ($400 new) APEX Lite Controler ($350 new) Netgear game controller ($40 new) Nano Tuners Actinic Upgrade (~ $50 new) 30lbs live rock (~$50 retail) 30lbs Fiji Pink Substrate = (~$60 new) 2lF Phosban Reactor ($40 new) MJ600 (~$20 new) MJ1200 x2 (~$20 new) Koralia1 (~$30 new) Eheim automatic feeder (~$25 new) BRS 75 GPD RO/DI 5 Stage Drinking and Reef Water System (all hookups, hoses, etc...) (~$200 new) Dual Inline TDS Meter DM-1 HM Digital (~$30 new)

======== Misc ======== Water jugs 5gal x2 (~$10/per new) Water jug 2.5gal (~$10 new) Elos Calcium (~$20 new) Elos Phosphate (~$20 new) Elos Magnesium (~$20 new) Elos Alkalinity (~$20 new) Pumps (4-5) MJ1200 x2, MJ900, MJ600 Calcium, Alkalinity, Reef Trace, Reef Iodine, Pure (water treatment)

========= Livestock ========= Mated Onyx Misbar Clowns Cleaner Shrimp (~25 new) Clean up crew (snails, hermit crabs, etc ...) California Tort Large (3") x 4 Neon Green (Kryptonite) Candy Cane (2 heads) (Apple? )Hammer Coral Small medium x3 (go for $80/per at ATL) Orange Crush Ricordia Small (3 heads) Orange Crush Ricordia Small (10+ heads) Meteor shower Cyphaestra (1.5" plug - go for $40 at ATL) x3 Ultra Orange Digitata x3 (4" multi branch - go for $80 per at ATL) Hollywood Stunner Chalice (1") x4 Hollywood Stunner Chalice (2") x2 Hollywood Stunner Chalice (3") x2 Surf and Turf (2") x3 TRPE Paly (3+ heads) Green Sparkle Paly (5+ heads) Lunar Eclipse Paly (10+ heads) Purple Joker Paly = (10+ heads)

[shashin type="photo" id="659,658,651,618,531,547" size="small" columns="max" order="user" position="center"]

[farmboyreef]

Good morning farm hands! Topic of the day let's talk about calsium reactors. Who has one? How do you like it ? What media are you running for the calsium?Have a great day gang. Let's see some pics and info about your setup. The reactor dissolves the calcium-laden media to provide bicarbonates HCO3− (alkalinity) and calcium (Ca++) ions at the sames rate as consumed during calcification. Effectively dissolving the media requires an acidic pH.

[reefcalciumreactor-blog]

Reef Calcium Reactor Saltwater Aquarium

Calcium reactors help maintain alkalinity and calcium levels by dissolving a media called aragonite. When the aragonite is dissolved it then drips back into the... Reef Calcium Reactor Saltwater Aquarium

[teruyalab]

© Anand Kaimal (akaimal from reefcentral.com)

TeruyaLab.com

• Main Display: 240 US-gallon custom aquarium with starfire glass on three viewable sides with one overflow box on the back side (48”L X 48”W X 24”H) • Stand: The stand was custom made by a local reef store • Sump: 70 US-gallon acrylic tank • Refugium: 20 US-gallon acrylic tank with mangroves and chaeto alga • Skimmer: SKIMZ SK 222 Kone E-Series External Protein Skimmer • Return pump: Reeflo Dart connected to two Wavy Sea wave makers • Water Circulation: Vortech MP60 running on Reef Crest mode • Calcium Reactor: Geo 618 calcium reactor with a second chamber filled with TwoLittleFishes media • Other Equipment: Apex aqua controller and 1 x Two Little Fishes phosban 150 reactor with high capacity GFO • Auto Top Off System: 5 stages RO/DI unit filter the water. Top off is done using a float switch connected to Apex aqua controller • Heating & Cooling: Two 300W heater controlled by Apex aqua controller, and a Teco 1/3HP chiller

[farmboyreef]

Good day farm hands let's do a little poll😎💪. When it comes to reactor media for a calcium reactor what's your brand of choice ? And why.

[teruyalab]

Read more at teruyalab.com

Source: reefkeeping.com

© Pawel Szember's (paszembe) 210 US-gallon Reef Aquarium

Introduction

I have always thought of Tank of the Month as the most precious and recognizable distinction in the marine aquarium world. Never in my wildest dreams did I ever think that some day I would be able to present my reef aquarium, and be listed among the best tanks. But sometimes even our best dreams do come true. I got the message that my little piece of ocean was nominated as TOTM on my 35th birthday. Can you imagine a better birthday gift for a reefer? My name is Pawel Szember, I live in Poland and I’m addicted to SPS corals.

Background

The funny thing is that in my parent’s house we always had at least a few fresh water tanks. My dad, as far as I know, was in this hobby for at least 50 years, but I was never really interested in keeping aquariums until 2010. At first I had two small 240L and 63L fresh water tanks (63 and 17 US-gallon respectfully). Two years later while I was on vacation with my family I was able to taste a little more of the marine world and then I realized that a saltwater tank is what I really wanted.

System Profile

• Main Display: 162x82x60 cm ~ 800L (64in x 31.5in x 23.5in 210 US-gallons) • Stand: Steel construction that came with the display tank from the first owner • Sump: 140x60x45 cm ~378L (100 US-gallons) • Frag Tank: 120x50x25 ~ 150L (40 US-gallons) • Skimmer: Bubble King 300 Deluxe • Return Pump: Red Dragon 12000L/hr • Water Circulation: 4x Tunze 6105 • Light: Ati Powermodule 10x80W • Computer: Profilux 3ex • Reactors: Zeovit Reactor Medium, Aqua Special Calcium Reactor with Knop media • Temperature: 2x300W heaters, Teco TR20 chiller • UPS: Orvaldi 500W + ~500Ah battery

Current System

Many beginners in this hobby start with a fish only system, then they add some soft corals, LPS and eventually SPS. My approach was different. From the very beginning I knew that SPS is what I wanted to keep the most. Luckily, I met some very helpful people on a local Polish reef forum. After a few months I bought my first (and current) tank from a guy who was leaving the hobby. This was where my adventure with reef tanks began.

Fortunately I could place my filtration system in another room. It is located directly behind the wall so I could have my filter section separated from the display. This allows me to have additional space for frag tanks, water change, etc., while the display part remains clean and quiet. I have even managed to install my UPS system and chiller in the garage. This setup is something I would recommend to everyone.

As the time passed I realized that it’s not the hardware or money put into a tank that guarantees success. It’s more of an art than a science to create and keep a really beautiful reef aquarium.

The most important things I have learned so far:

Take advice only from one man at a time and from one who can show you his tank and you know his results

SPS – Stability Promotes Success

No one knows your tank better than you, read, ask, but decide for yourself

Think twice before you act

Good things don’t happen fast in a reef tank

Lighting

When I started my tank I bought a LED+T5 combo fixture and used it for the first year, it was nice. But under the impression of the fantastic colors of the SPS corals (mainly in Krzysztof Tryc’s tank) I took a “step back” and got an ATI Powermodule fixture. This was the step I probably will never regret. My corals are more than happy and my colors are better than ever before.

My current bulb combo (front to back):

1.     ATI Blue Plus

2.     ATI Coral Plus

3.     FM Ultra Royal Blue

4.     ATI Coral Plus

5.     Giesemann Aquapink

6.     ATI Blue Plus

7.     ATI Aquaspecial

8.     FM Ultra Royal Blue

9.     ATI Coral Plus

10.   ATI Blue Plus

Bulbs are changed every 5-6 months.

Photoperiod:

Bulbs #3 and #8 – 12h/day from 10am-10pm

All other bulbs: 9h/day from 11:30am-8:30pm

Water Parameters:

Salinity: 35PSU

pH: 8.1 - 8.4

Calcium: 410 ppm

Alkalinity: 7-8 dKH

Magnesium: 1260

Phosphate: 0.00ppm

Nitrate: 0.2 ppm

Potassium: 400ppm

Temperature: 25-27˚C

Redox: 400-420mV

Filtration

From the very beginning, I based my filtration on a strong skimmer and biopellets. At first I had a DIY skimmer made by my friend, similar to a BK180, but after a short period of time I bought a used BK200, and finally decided to order brand new BK300. This is the model I like the most and I’m going to stay with it for a really long time.

When it comes to biopellets at first I used N/P reducing Biopellets XL and few months ago I’ve switched to All-in-One Biopellets from the same vendor. I must admit that both types of biopellets worked great for me, I never had any issue with NO3 or PO4 levels. However, since I am always trying to “chase the best looking rabbit” I wanted to try something different so I decided to give Zeovit system a try and check if for at least the next few months. At this moment, I have removed biopellets from my system and I am using only the basic Zeovit products.

Maintenance, Feeding, & Supplements

I feed my fish twice a day with mix of different frozen foods (6 cubes a day), seaweed every two days and sometimes ReefPearls dry food.

I strongly believe in regular water changes so I change 10% every week and from time to time (twice a year) I do a larger 30% water change. I also have a habit of regular testing my basic water parameters. I check my alkalinity level every day and adjust my reactor if needed and full tests every week before water changes.

I also try to keep my system as clean as possible so I clean my skimmer cup every 2-3 days to maximize its performance. From time to time I clean my pumps and other equipment to keep it in a good shape.

Zeovit supplements:

• Zeolite: 2L changed every 6 weeks

• ZeoStart3: 1.6mL daily split into 2 dosage (0.8 ml each)

• Zeobak: 8 drops twice a week

• Sponge Power: 8 drops every other day

• Xtra: 8 mL twice a week

• 700-800mL FM carbon in a filter bag changed monthly

Livestock Inhabitants Fish:

• Zebrasoma flavescens

• Zebrasoma xanthurus

• Acanthurus leucosternon

• Paracanthurus hepatus

• Pseudanthias squamipinnis – x10

• Chromis viridis – x2

• Chrysiptera springeri – x6

• Nemateleotris decora

• Synchiropus splendidus – x2

• Synchiropus picturatus

• Pseudochromis fridmani – x2

• Pseudocheilinus hexataenia

• Chelmon rostratus

Corals:

Except a few LPS and Tridacnas almost 100% Acropora, more than 100 different types.

Acknowledgement

First of all I would like to thank all the Reefcentral and Reefkeeping Magazine users and staff for the ability to present my tank to such a great audience. Special thanks goes to Krzysztof and Irene Tryc, Robert K, and rest of my friends. All that I achieved in this hobby is mostly thanks to you. Last but not least I would like to thank my wife and my daughters for their constant support.

[teruyalab]

© Paul Hughes

Source: practicalfishkeeping.co.uk 

Witness the final days of Paul Hughes’ magnificent reef tank on our recent reader visit. WORDS: NATHAN HILL

Convict tangs, Acanthurus triostegus.

Display tanks in stores are the mannequins of high-street boutiques. They should inspire, elicit a desire to copy, and show the customer what can potentially be achieved. They’re also a reflection on a retailer’s competence. After all, would you take advice from a store that ran disheveled tanks with dying corals and  ill-looking livestock?

Advanced Aquarium Consultancy in Essex owns the textbook example of a display tank done right. Its reputation preceded it, warranting several aquarists to contact me and advise that I should get over and see for myself. When I first visited the store some months back, under the auspices of a shoptour, each and every testimony I’d heard was validated. This is a shop display that hits hard enough to wind you when you see it, leaving you with nothing to say but ‘wow’.

In a curious twist, the tank has become a victim of its own success. If aquascapes can be King for a day, then so this tank is peaking right now. As the store has grown and the business has boomed, the premises it calls home are now expanding, meaning that a bigger, newer — dare I say better — display is in the awnings. Within weeks of this magazine hitting press, the tank will be no more. Its prime coral choices will be clipped and fragged, the fish transferred and a whole miniature reef seeded afresh in a new home. Having witnessed the ‘dry’ layout of the new tank, I feel safe in saying it’ll be wonderful.

Highly colourful Scolymia.

Its owner, Paul Hughes, is a man with a name rightly associated with quality reefing. After long stints in the industry, including spells of coral farming, he has turned his hand to installations and consultancy, with a long list of successful reef builds under his belt.

I was so impressed after my shoptour that I was soon booking up for a return visit. Here’s a little of what we saw and discussed that day…

Your tank is ostensibly called a display tank, but to what extent is it a self-indulgence? Looking at it, and the pride you have in it, I sense that this set-up is more personal than corporate.

Absolutely! It’s more than just a shop brochure, although of course it does aid the shop in terms of sales. As I practically spend every day of the year at AAC HQ, there’s no longer any time for a personal home aquarium — so why not have a good one here instead? I may be working in an aquatic profession, but I think that it’s essential for customers to feel my genuine enthusiasm for the subject too. How long has it been up and running for now? Approximately three years, but it was started from my extensive collection of LPS corals and SPS mother colonies from a previous home coral farm and display tank.

From a hardware perspective, how has the tank evolved? What has stayed, what has gone, and has anything in particular impressed you? The aquarium’s principal system equipment and engineering has pretty much remained the same throughout my career, since the advent of the Berlin system ideals. The tank’s fundamental ingredients are a protein skimmer, calcium reactor, kalkwasser reactor, phosphate control, high levels of circulation, lots of living rock and strong lighting. Although nothing has been sacked equipment wise on the current system, what has impressed me during the tank’s development, has been the evolution of the high-powered AI LEDs which have been changed several times to more improved models. The Deltec protein skimming has been uprated too.

 Silver belly wrasse, Halichoeres trispilus.

Would you class yourself as more of a fish person, or more of a coral person? Without a doubt, anyone who knows me well understands that I see fish mainly as a pain in the backside in a reef system, apart from those that perform useful jobs, such as wrasse, dragonets and pipefish and the odd grazing tang. In recent times a customer trend towards fish-only systems has rekindled an old interest in butterfly fish and other possible combinations in a reef aquarium too. I'm meeting more and more aquarists that risk introducing one of their wish-list 'reef-safe' angels or butterflies, or alternatively try to shape their coral garden around those species that won't view everything as a potential meal.

But corals will always be my first fascination, and my specialist subject. I'm focussing more of my spare reading time on studying coral pests, diseases and viruses — there’s so much more to learn than just the chemistry, and nutrient cycles to grow a coral.

 Corals are Paul’s first fascination and he spends a lot of his spare time studying them.

It stands to reason a lot of people will be inspired by the looks of this tank. Who inspires you? Recently on the international scene (and from a design perspective), Youngil Moon from Korea for his Real Reef Rock displays. Closer to home, reefing gods such as Reef bloke of Ultimate Reef fame and other greats such as David Saxby, Terry Evans and Martin Lakin.

For me, one of the most inspirational aquariums ever was a classic tiny 60cm/2ft SPS reef tank by Julian Sprung, which had a mangrove tree growing out of the top of it! Check it out — I think it was in volume 1 or 2 'The Modern Reef Aquarium' in a thing called a book (Feature eds note: The Modern Reef Aquarium range of books, by Fossa and Nilsen are available from the publisher Birgit Schmettkamp Verlag, and may be the best marine books in existence.)

 Paul wants to add ‘new shoots’ to replace the ‘trees’ in the current set-up.

Did you plan livestock before you started, and did you stick to it? Or was the selection a gradual process? I never make too many hard and fast rules, or rush things. Any selection of livestock has to constantly evolve in a decent reef aquarium in my opinion.

The phenomenal success of one species in a mixed reef may prove to be detrimental to others, especially as you learn more of the coral’s own personal requirements including growth patterns, lighting and hydrodynamic requirements, and aggression. This may mean forfeiting one species to save another.

What I do have, like many experienced gardeners with their planting schemes, is the ability to visualize the final outcome and how it should turn out. But it's never written in stone.

 Ghost cardinalfish, Apogon leptacanthus.

I understand that some of the coral in here comes from frags of colonies that have never been imported since. How did that all come about? It is true, some of the corals in the display can trace their ancestor’s roots back 15 to 20 years or more. The initial frags and colonies were passed on to me by like-minded stony coral pioneers, including David Saxby and Martin Lakin. Is there any livestock you regret adding? I heard something about a cantankerous crab that’s been causing you problems… Well, 'Robert the robbing crab' certainly wasn't added deliberately I can assure you. He recently consumed a £150 Papaya clove polyp, pinching a ‘flower’ from it every night. Other species at times that have brought great annoyance include adult wrasse that have terrorized any new additions to the tank, causing all sorts of dramas.

You use a mixture of LED and T5 lighting — what’s your thinking behind that? Is LED on its own not up to the job yet? Ooooh that’s a juicy one. Are LEDs up to the job ? By themselves? Yes, they are. The fact is, a photon of light is a photon of light whatever the source. It's how's it's delivered, spread and the number of units used that's very often the issue for sole use of LED lighting. I could harp on about metal halide lighting and T5 tubes supplementing one another in recent history, for years and years — and why did we do this? I'd say to level out the point sources of light and reduce shadowing. It's either that, or you need to really cover the surface well with LEDs to provide a very even cast, just as you would with metal halide and T5 use. Let’s also remember that many folks doubted the efficiency of T5s as the sole source of light, when they first came out. I'm particularly interested in the new E5 T5 high powered LEDs that have just entered the market. These are LEDs but are well diffused and will even outshine those PAR monster LEDs from America. I'm sure that E5s will bring further debate to the reefkeeping community and I will certainly experiment on finding the best solution for the system I can create around its needs; no trends, just what works best. Lighting can always be improved, it's tough trying to replicate sunlight and the way it works.

 The set-up includes some well-grown LPS corals.

What degree of remote control do you have over the system? What software do you use for things like lighting? I use the AI platform for the Hydra 52 LEDs, and Apex is fitted for temperature control and monitoring , but very little else. I am more of an 'analogue' man and prefer cranky timer switches for their simplicity and reliability. Tell us something you do that would make other reefkeepers frown. You should see me with the food! But it's only PO4 media that’s needed to put the additional phosphates from my heavy feeding right. Which brands do you trust the most? Eheim, Tunze, Deltec, Schego, AquaIlluminations, Sera. D-D H2O Ocean, Red Sea. What would you say has been the best innovation in marine keeping? The black gold — RowaPhos! Before this, there was nothing like it, and now there are a hundred and one imitations. Some of them are getting close, but Rowa is Rowa and it has helped me grow the huge numbers of coral frags that adorn many reef aquariums around the UK .

Goldrim tang, Acanthurus japonicus.

You have lots of small pumps running on this system. What’s the benefit of many small pumps over a couple of bigger beasts? I prefer the idea of micro flow patterns and plenty of surface water movement to disperse the light rays coming from the LEDs, so that I don't get hotspots. I have a couple of big beasts too, for laminar flow.

I know the set-up is ‘migrating’ to a new home next door, so how long has the tank got left in it? How much of the livestock are you hoping to reclaim? By the time this article gets published it’s pretty fair to say that I will start chopping it about. The best way to get the new garden growing properly is with 'new shoots' rather than 'trees', as the frags will find their new flow patterns and light. I hope to be able to reclaim pretty much all of it, but there will also be plenty of frags available for customers, so it has its plus points. It is getting tired and overgrown and would need a good coppicing to rejuvenate some growth, even if there wasn't a new tank on the horizon.



Meet the aquarist Name: Paul Hughes. Age: 46. Profession: LFS owner for my sins. Time in the hobby: Earliest fishkeeping memories from six years old. Most tanks kept at any time: Loads — can’t remember but it borders on ridiculous when I think back to my tropical days. Favourite fish: Too many to mention, but one group that I love includes the following species Anampses lennardi, Anampses meleagrides, Anampses femininus. They always float my boat. Favourite corals: Cyphastrea sp. and the chalice coral groups.

 Livestock Fish Purple tang, Zebrasoma xanthurum Yellow tang, Zebrasoma flavescens Convict tang, Acanthurus triostegus Scopas tang, Zebrasoma scopas Goldrim tang, Acanthurus japonicas Golden anthias, Pseudanthias aurulentus Randall’s anthias, Pseudanthias randalli Yellow-back anthias, Pseudanthias evansi Purple queen anthias, Mirolabrichthys tuka Yellow tail tamarin, Anampses meleagrides Spotted mandarin, Synchiropus picturatus Silver belly wrasse, Halichoeres trispilus Hoeven’s wrasse, Halichoeres melanurus Dusky wrasse, Halichoeres marginatus Ghost cardinal, Apogon leptacanthus Common clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris

Corals Montipora sp. Pocillipora sp. Seriatopora sp. Cyphastrea sp. Pavona sp. Ricordea florida Pachyclavularia sp. Acanthophyllia sp. Blastomussa sp. Symphillia sp. Acanthastrea sp. Goniopora sp. Scolymia sp. Acropora, including A. gomezi, humilis, florida, nana, carduus, horrida and hyacinthus.

Tank basics

Dimensions: 205 x 65 x 80cm/82 x 26 x 32in.

Lighting: A mixture of five AI Hydra 52 LEDs, plus two 39W T5 D-D Razor Lights. System cranks up through a dawn period, and closes in a dusk period, giving 12–13 hours of lighting daily. Evenings involve the use of UV, violet and royal blue light settings to encourage coral fluorescing. 

Temperature control: Two 500W titanium heaters keep things warm, while dual fans are on standby for the event of overheating. 

Filtration: The tank utilizes much of the Berlin method, with heavy reliance on good circulation and live rock to convert pollutants — roughly 140kg of live rock is used in Paul’s set up. Circulation comes from a mixture of eight Tunze stream pumps, combined with a Tunze wave box. Phosphates are controlled with a sump-based PO4 reactor, while occasional carbon use and floating Polyfilters help to extract anything else undesirable. Limited mechanical filtration occurs at the point of exit on the PO4 reactor, where a filter sock is attached. 

Maintenance regime: Five daily fish feeds, using a mix of frozen (Mysis, red plankton, brine shrimp) and dry foods. Corals receive a mixture of Polyp Lab Reef Roids and Boost, Goniopower from Two Little Fishes, and Red Sea’s Reef Energy. Inside the tank, the glass is wiped down daily, while a 25% water change occurs fortnightly. RowaPhos is changed every six weeks; Kalkwasser roughly every three-to-four weeks.