#but also. i would have to use such a lightweight yarn to get the drape right. waugh. stockingette hell for 3000 years

[cormorant-red]

went for a walk and spent the whole time seriously thinking about knitting akane's shirt. someone stop me

[ladytemeraire]

While I'm on the topic of discussing knitwear and knitting patterns: I really wish designers would put some extra thought into the yarn choices/ recommendations for their patterns beyond "this is pretty".

Like, I know mohair is having a moment right now so everyone is using mohair in their patterns, and that's great for cozy cold weather sweaters; but if your pattern is for a floaty lightweight cottagecore-esque top for summer, maybe don't pick a mohair/silk blend? That's great for warmth, but it sounds like an absolute nightmare for hot months.

Similarly, a designer I really love just put out a pattern for a flowy drapey summer tee, and while I'm absolutely going to make it at some point, I'm absolutely not going to use the wool/silk/yak yarn they recommend, because I don't feel like breaking my budget or getting heat stroke. Instead I plan to use a wool/cotton blend; that will keep the springiness and structure of wool so it doesn't stretch all out of shape, but the cotton will provide drape and also allow the fabric to breathe. (Yak and silk are both fabulous for drape but tend to retain heat better than plant fibers.)

At this point I personally have the experience to know how to swap or substitute yarns to get the results I want, but it still leaves me scratching my head and wondering what the thought process is and also feeling bad for less experienced knitters who aren't able to do the same.

[20dollarlolita]

Hey! I’m hoping you might have a suggestion for fabrics; I’m looking for a thick cotton to make a petticoat style skirt (like those oldschool ones made of cotton with pintucks and insertion lace). I want it thick enough that the white skirt isn’t see through and it stays stiff enough to provide volume if I use it as an underskirt, but not so thick/rough it’s uncomfortable or that I can’t gather it to be frilly. There’s so many words out there- duck? Broadcloth? Canvas? Twill? I’m not sure how to describe what I’m looking for in a Google search. All I know is I definitely don’t want quilting cotton. ‘Burberry’ (which I see a lot of brands use) just turns up plaids a la the high fashion brand. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you so much!

Anyone who is interested in burbery in the lolita context should talk to @babelglyph aka burberryglyph. The short version is that burbery is a lightweight cotton twill used in a lot of old school pieces, and B.Glyph knows where to get it, as well as can provide info about why they know that the fabric they recommend is true burbery twill, as well as why it's called burbery. I remember that they know all of this but can't remember the actual answer to any of it.

As for other fabrics you mentioned: All duck is canvas but not all canvas is duck. Duck is a plain weave and other canvasses can be a twill weave of some kind. Either way, the heavier yarn and overall thick construction is what makes canvas canvas. Fun fact, "duck tape" predated the term "duct tape" and referred to tape made of duck canvas. Broadcloth is usually interchangeably with quilt cotton, though "quilt cotton" is generally a more specific term. Broadcloth can be pretty much any fiber but quilt cotton is expected to be cotton. Some people think that broadcloth has to be a single color. Twill is a weave structure, so the words that predate it are important. "stretch twill" is going to be different from "suiting twill" or "heavyweight wool twill." If you want to see a twill weave structure, generally the most accessible example of a twill structure is denim. Look at some blue jeans and you can see how there's that slanting pattern caused by the blue threads passing over 2-3 white threads before going under a white thread? That's a twill weave structure. (You then have to have it be cotton and have the two color setup to be proper denim. Technically black jeans aren't denim, they're just twill, but no one wants to get into that fight with me.)

If you're looking for cotton fabrics that aren't quilt cotton, but tend to be in that sort of lighter weight area, I'd look for:

Cotton sateen: This is cotton fibers woven in a satin weave. This has a really subtle luster and will drape better than quilt cotton,

or

Cotton poplin: poplin has what's called an unbalanced plain weave, so the threads are woven in the same pattern as quilting cotton, but where in quilting cotton they are the same thickness vertically and horizontally, they're different thicknesses vertical vs horizontal in poplin. This means that it hangs better, and also that it has a different drape depending on if you're using lengthwise grain or crosswise grain. Poplin is used for shirting a lot.

If you need to get thicker, you will probably want to look for lightweight twill. I'm trying to not get too into textile science, which is hard because i LOVE textile science. So stick with me for a second:

The "higher quality" a fabric generally feels, in quotes there because quality is subjective, but through history we have associated finely spun yarns with a higher quality. Thinner yarns are harder to make, and you need to use more of them to make the same size fabric as you'd make with thicker yarn. Thinner yarn has to be structurally better constructed to take the force of being woven into fabric, versus a thicker yarn. So, when we want something that feels like quality, we look for fabrics spun with a thinner yarn. This is why expensive sheets are measured in thread count: more threads per inch is a better quality sheet.

However, the problem comes when you want a thicker fabric made of thinner yarns. If you've ever had a potholder loom, you understand a plain weave: a yarn goes over one yarn, under the next, over the next, and so on. Thinner threads in a plain weave will make a thinner fabric.

However, if you start using other weave patterns, you start changing fabric properties. In a twill weave, a thread will go over two or more other threads before going under another thread. One of the side effects of this is that it's possible to fit more threads into the same space than you could fit in a plain weave, meaning that you can make a thicker fabric with thinner yarns going into the construction process.

And this means that, if you're judging a fabric thickness by weight, like you know how many ounces a yard of fabric is, a twill fabric will be made of finer yarns than a canvas fabric of the same weight.

In addition to being "higher quality", we like thinner yarns in garment construction because they're more flexible, so they make the fabric hang more like a garment and less like a canvas sack.

As a final note, when you say "provide volume as an underskirt", a twill skirt with pintucks and insertion will have some volume, but if you're doing a lolita fashion look, you'll also need petticoats under that. Some fashion styles, that added volume will be enough, but in lolita fashion, if you can get the hem of your skirt to be 10" away from your legs in all direction, you're probably approaching the correct level of poof.

(But for what it's worth, if you're trying to add some more volume on a cotton underskirt that's not for lolita fashion, pintucks will make the same skirt have more volume. Creating that rigid-ish line that goes in the direction opposite of what the skirt would naturally want to fold, especially if you make several of those lines in a close spacing, will hold the skirt out and make it have more lift. Just a fun fact there. If you want to get as much volume as possible out of this, you will want to use many small pintucks, as well as the stiffest insertion that you can find. Skirts want to be small and make lots of soft vertical folds, so applying horizontal decoration that makes that folding harder to do will add volume).

I don't know how much of that was answering the ask and how much was just Pink Loves Textile Science 2023(tm)

[callmebliss]

Internet Yard Sale!

...sort of. My car transmission chose the WORST time of year to die and I’m looking to sell a bunch of my fiber craft to feed the mechanical beast. Therefore, witness this array of items! I will be going through shortly to attach approximate prices to each, all of which will be deeply discounted from what I would be asking if I put these full price in my Etsy shop. If you see something you want and don’t fancy the price, make me an offer! If you see something you like but would want it in a different color, I do not charge extra for commission work. 🙂

reblog ok. -creep

This is one of the biggest of the small-form skull shawls I have made, totalling 66 faces! The yarn is a soft and squishable gradient with a hint of sparkly, rainbowy glitz throughout, adding a little pizzazz to the grey and white. Big enough to wrap wround and snuggle up in, or to let hand - this one has a great drape, and takes well to brooches and shawl pins.

Every skull face is different, both from the shape of it due to the drape and also the ever-changing gradient of the yarn. The hardest part of this shawl to depict is the sparkle, a subtle rainbow of glitz throughout. How much I would charge in the shop: $450 Asking: $200

A wide moebius shawl/scarf in gradient yarn, big enough to drape around the shoulders, to let hang long, or to double up for extra warmth going out in the cold. Machine-washable fibers. The gradients change slowly enough to blend well, but still make great contrast no matter which way you wear it. You can simply double loop it for scarf wear, or even bring one loop up to have a cozy hood! How much I would charge in the shop: $120 Asking: $60

One of my own designs that I forgot to write down, but will probably get around to at some point This scarf is a thick, slightly fuzzy yarn in a mossy green that doesn't quite come through in this picture. It is long enough that, draped around my neck, the ends fall all the way to my feet - plenty of length to experiment with knotting and draping as it keeps you warm. How much I would charge in the shop: $100 Asking: $50

This scarf employs a method another designer made for crocheted lengths that weave in and out from one another; their design used them thickly, and created a cowl. I decreased the size, increased the number, and called on the summer camp friendship bracelet skills of my youth to make a long, beautifully textured scarf. And I put tentacles on the end, because who doesn't love tentacles? Acrylic yarn, machine washable. How much I would charge in the shop: $140 Asking: $60

This scarf is a redesign of a shawl pattern I was checking out, which relied on color changes to bring out the way the pattern comes to a point. I used a gradient yarn, and created stitch changes in addition to the overall shape to create sharper textural chevrons within the wedgelike pattern. The contrast of the color gradient gives it an eye-catching, playful look What I would be asking for this in the shop: $160 Asking: $60

This lightweight shawl is worked from a single skein with a slow but strikingly changing gradient. It is a long shawl, but not too deep, and can be worn as a scarf or as a shawl as suits your needs. Curving gracefully, it falls to just above the elbow, closes well with stick pin/shawl pin or brooch as desired. How much I would charge for this in the shop: $225 Asking: $100

This is a thick and playful shawl in a crisp blue acrylic, inspired by a pinappley antique doily pattern reworked and upsized into this wearable piece. Fully machine washable, suitable for adults or children. Comes to just the elbow on the sides, and to the waist front and back. Openwork design welcoming to a variety of shawl pins. How much I would charge for this in the shop: $180 Asking: $80

This is one of the largest of the skulls shawls I have ever made; in a soft lavender acrylic, this one is nearly a small blanket instead of a shawl, with a wingspan that outreaches my own arms both sides and a spine length that goes all the way to the knees. It could easily be a lap blanket as much as a shawl. This one is a Beeg Gorl! It extends all the way to the wrists, and drapes to the knees front and back. How much I would charge for this in the shop: $300 Asking: $125

This is the newest pattern I've learned, and I love it; it flows organically and there are spots where it is altered and comes back to form, like a minor mutation in a reef of coral under the Big Blue. What I would charge for this in the shop: $220 Asking: $100

If you love a really crazy long scarf, check this one out! This red dragon wing scarf has a long straight edge, and dags along the other edge that look like a dragon's wing when you wrap it around, and around, and around. How much I would charge for this in this shop: $180 Asking: $60

[merzelifestyle]

Creating a French Market Basket Design - How to Style A Tablescape Like A Professional - 7th in this series

I just adore French market baskets and use them when gardening all the time. I collect flowers in them and bring them in to design centerpieces. It is a working basket for me that I use over and over again.

First, let’s talk market baskets!

Market baskets have been used in Europe and France for decades. The ones originally used long ago were made of heavy material. They have been commonly used throughout Europe to carry fresh produce, cheeses, and baguettes from outdoor markets.  Today, they are lightweight and strong which make them great for carrying items when going to a farmers market, beach or even on a picnic. You don’t have to worry about them getting wet since all you need to do is reshape them when wet, let them dry and you are ready to go on the next great excursion.

Indoors, they are wonderful for storing blankets, magazines and yarn for knitting. I will often use mine for when guests come to visit for the weekend. I will roll beautiful guest towels and place them in my french basket along with a little lavender potpourri sachet bag tucked in between the towels. I will either place the basket in my guest bedroom or bathroom. When my guests are ready to leave, I will gift them an unused lavender sachet bag simular to the ones in the market basket. It’s just my way of saying thank-you for coming to stay.

Why did I choose a french market basket for my design?

I wanted a design elemement that is quintessentially French

Market baskets go hand in hand when thinking about Provence and flowers. The long standing beauty and history of these baskets remind me of the French marketplace and the organic surroundings of the rustic countryside.

I wanted to tell the full story of my table design

When creating a tablescape, or any design for that matter, I have a theme in my mind that I can create to. I talk about that fully in my blog, “Choosing a Design Theme For Your Table: My French Garden” if you want to learn more.

In my story, My French Garden, I saw a French woman preparing her beautiful garden tablescape in haste. She collected flowers from her garden using her favorite market basket. Once she was done placing the flowers she collected on the table, there were some flower stems that remained in her basket along with her scissors and a favorite book, “Paris In Bloom”. She left the basket on one of the chairs not realizing it remained and there it stayed.

One of my inspirations for this tablescape and for using the market basket was from Georgianna Lane’s book, Paris in Bloom. It is a book full of gorgeous photographs of Paris and all the lovely blooms that surround this remarkable city. I have had the book on my coffee table for some time now and I adore it. It was the first place I went to find inspiration for my tablescape.

Here is how I created my market basket design

Next, I collected items that would convey the image of an intimate French garden party. I went to a bakery that created authentic bagettes that you would find in France and added them to my basket. I then added my book and finally my favorite pair of garden sheers.

I chose six types of flowers to decorate my market basket. I looked for flowers that would cascade around the top of the basket as well as give additional color and texture to the design. I wanted them to have a soft romantic feel to them.

Dusty Miller: I chose dusty miller for its green/gray color. The leaves match nicely with the different grays in the table as well it added both texture and warmth to the arrangement. The fuzzy softly curved leaves cascaded down the side of the basket giving it a romantic soft look.

Delphinium: I added just a few delphinium for the pop of deep blue I was looking for. I chose stalks that were small and fell in a beautiful manner.

David Austin Roses - Heritage: I then added beautiful David Austin Heritage roses to the bouquet. The blush color added nicely to the brown hues in the confit pot as well gave my basket a warm richness I was looking for. Perfect for the look I was going for, cozy, warm and romantic.

Eucalyptus: I chose seeded and silver dollar eucalyptus for its arid feel as well as its ability to both cascade around the basket. It also capture some of the warm greens in the runner. I love the old world feel to that this beautiful flower has.

Creamy White Hypericum Berries: Hypericum berries add just a touch of warmth and beauty to any arrangement. They both cascaded beautifully and mixed well with the heritage roses.

Hydrangea’s: I then added only a few cream-colored hydrangea so that they would fill the open areas around the basket. I wanted the basket to be full of blooms and this did the trick.

NOTE: This event was 3 days long and I had to keep the flowers in my basket hydrated, therefore each stem had a water tube attached to to the bottom of each one. It worked perfectly.

Because I had to use water tubes for each of the stems, I had to hide them. I used one of my favorite French linen dish towels and ran it through the handles of the market basket. I then tied the towel in a knot in order to close the basket. I then draped the ends of the linen cloth over any additional exposed area. It worked great and appeared as if it belonged there! French linens are so common is households all through Provence.

I also added another gray linen napkin to the inside of the basket just in case my other dish towel moved. I wanted to be sure I secured the stems of the flowers the best I could.

""The details are not the details. They make the design.""  -- CHARLES EAMES

“The thing is…adding little details to your design to tell a story makes sense. It captures the intrinsic nature of the story you are trying portray. For me, flowers always work in combination with some other special details. It doesn’t matter is you love simple succulents or aspire to use hydrangeas, it make your design go to the next level.”

Here is a quick video of my finished tablescape.

“Mon Jardin à la Française” or “My French Garden”

As with everything I post on my blogs, please feel free to comment or if you have any questions, please email me through my contact page. I welcome it anytime!

Design with your heart™️

Happy entertaining my friends!

Mary

  "May your home be a place where friends meet, family gathers, and love grows. "  -- Anonymous

[thecoroutfitters]

Written by R. Ann Parris on The Prepper Journal.

A lot of times, we get what we pay for. Sometimes, though, the best things in life are free … or very, very inexpensive. In the case of target practice, inexpensive and free targets offer not only a cost reduction, but actually provide better training.

For most of these, we’ll need repetitions of a couple of supplies, starting with a backer and attachments, so…

First Stop: Liquor Store

They have boxes free for the asking. Other sources can be the cigarette cartons many gas stations get, or used boxes from moving companies. Flattened Amazon boxes and pasteboard boxes we’ve emptied of cereal, pasta, etc. will also regularly work.

Total cost: Zilch

Second Stop: Bargain-basement Budget Store

We’re after some packing tape and-or some string, twine or yarn. For some purposes, the cheapo Dollar Tree stapler and staples will work instead. Sometimes the duct-like tape works.

It does not need to be good, for-real duct or Gorilla tape, but a lot of gift wrap-type tape isn’t quite enough.

Total cost now: $2+tax to $4+tax

If there’s some available and it doesn’t overtax the budget, binder clips and paperclips are super-duper handy for the range.

Small Trash & Recyclables  

Small shoe boxes and shipping boxes, oatmeal and grits tubs, odd-shaped dish detergent and spray-cleaner bottles, and cracker and cereal boxes are handy all on their own. And, free – yay!

Those freebies have increased value for small game hunters and shooters who are aiming small to replicate long-distance shooting.

They’re even more useful if we can hang them as-is in their original shape from a frame/line by string or cord, or prop them up loosely on straightened metal coat hangers or tree branches so the wind can make them more challenging. Loosely attached, they’ll also bounce and swing a bit from hits, further replicating real-life challenges.

For hunters, value increases further since we can get a better idea of how different angles will affect the penetration and path of our shot through our target.

Add to total: Nada

(But don’t forget to bring something to attach them to like stapling or taping them to string, or those sticks from the yard.)

Branches

Sticks with multiple branches spaced out can accomplish a lot of what I’ll talk about with other holders, and do it absolutely free.      

All we need to add are yarn/twine/thread or binder clips or clothespins (or clips made by breaking cheapo free clothing hangers), and whatever we’re shooting at, and drape it like people do for cutesy decorations.

(I have no idea why that’s cute in that iteration. But it was inspirational.)

If we fiddle a little, we can hang them from overhead lines using other clips, or with screw in hooks. Otherwise, we can stab them into the ground or fill an empty cereal box, coffee tub, or cut-down milk jug with dirt, mulch, rocks, charcoal, or crushed soda cans to prop them up.

As with other targets on the list, the size of items – from playing cards and partially inflated balloons to paper cups and tin-can tops – is greatly useful to small game hunters and for replicating long-distance shots.

The movement of targets from wind and impacts adds challenges, and having the targets swing back and forth behind each other is also great for shoot-no shoot training.

Add to total: Zippo

Pool Noodles!

I love these things. They have so many uses. A couple lengths of cheapo pool noodle can make a great add for our range kit, whether we’re heading to the backyard or off somewhere.

They’re lightweight, very adaptive in how they can be set up, hold numerous types and sizes of targets, and can be pegged and weighted to reduce movement or left to roll, twist, and blow for added challenge.

On the supply front:

– the pool noodle – $1-$2

– plastic forks – $1-$2

– some playing cards – $1-$2

(Go to the Dollar Tree for a multi-deck pack, use the gone-soft home decks, or ask a nearby casino if there is one – they punch decks and will let you have them as mementos. It doesn’t have to be poker cards; the kiddie multi-packs of Old Maid and Go Fish, flashcards, etc will work, too.)

Add to total: $3-$6+tax

We can also use small paper/plastic cups instead of cards, or even small and large paper plates. Used canning jar lids and emptied cartons and cereal boxes also work.

*Pool noodles work at most public ranges with overhead lines or target frames, although we need to be aware at ranges where there are rules about hitting the floor/ground and the side walls/berms instead of the rear berm.

Combining Those Oddballs

Pool noodles can hang vertically by punching a hole at the top and tying some cord, or we can slide them over anything relatively straight – sticks, straightened wire clothes hangers, garden stakes.

We can use them at full length or cut into shorter sections, which we can set up in ladders tie them at the ends so they mostly only blow back and forth a bit. Or, arrange tie them at the center so they spin at different rates and add some yaw to the bobbling and bouncing in wind and from hits.

The good ol’ backyard stick can also be used, stuck into the ground with short lengths of pool noodle springing out for a spread of targets.

We’re going to strategically slit some holes in our pool noodle for the forks and clothespins.

Playing cards can be set up pretty tight, so a 1/4” slit every 3-4” works. I tend to poke slits all the way through so I can balance a pair of targets going down or alternate which holes I’m using without any hassles.

Slice pairs to wiggle in clothespins.

I find it easiest to pull the clothespins in and out to affix whatever we’re shooting at. Just skip slots going down the pool noodle when using larger cups, paper plates, or pantry refuse instead of cards.

Do be aware that the pool noodle is going to be inclined to roll “down” with weight, so if we go for a horizontal ladder strung on something, we need to make sure whatever we’re shooting is tight enough to not fall out of the forks.

On top of being super adaptable in both target and how they get set up, there are weight and size advantages and the pure ease in creating targets with pool noodles compared to some types of folding or portable frames, which can be big for some people.

Balloons!

Head to a bargain-basement budget store and grab a bunch of balloons. We’re after a bag of multiple colors and the type we blow up with our lungs (not helium). They don’t have to be particularly sturdy. The ones that come with multiple shapes and sizes are a bonus.

Balloons have some singular advantages.

One, hanging, they offer movement. Especially in bunches of different colors, the movement can help us refine tight shoot-no shoot reactions or hone aim for times we need to make a window.

Draw 1-2 spare or pre-shot balloons from a bunch on the bench with you that match your hanging balloons. Those are either the good guys – don’t shoot – or the bad guys. We can also number balloons and roll dice to generate from-the-bench good-bad targets, or draw good guy and bad guy faces.

Balloons are also a fast and fairly easy way to generate “shoot-n-see” instant reactive targets. Since we can get anywhere from 12-50 for $1, it’s a little prep work, but pretty low cost compared to the real deal.   

We can blow them up, pre-tie strings to the tails so they hang singly or as overlapping bunches, clip them directly with clothespins, or tape them or staple the tails to our backers. We can do some of the work sitting watching TV the night before or up to 1-2 days before our range date. (Any longer, and they’ll deflate.)

Add to total: $1-$2 (+tax)

Free & Cheapo Targets

I love free, cheap and easy stuff – especially when it works just as well as or better than something static and boring. It’s a little bit of work sometimes, but it’s usually a little bit of work.

When we’re ready to up our game on the square range with some selective-target and speed drills, prepping for hunting, or out to convert somebody with how fun shooting can be – or “just” entertaining our family – balloons, trash from our pantries and yards, and pool noodles have a lot to offer.

There are plenty of others, to include ways to jazz up the common paper plates we target for increased skill development, or replacing those plates with trash from our pantries.

Most of these methods, particularly, are also multi-platform friendly. From low-power BB trainers to pellet guns, rimfire and centerfire pistol or rifle, or archery platforms and even darts, they offer nice feedback as well as skills development.

For some of us, the instant feedback alone is big – and lower cost than high-vis reactive targets.

The understanding of angles from 3D targets and the shoot-don’t shoot drills that can be designed would make them valuable over static paper all on their own, even if they were a more expensive option.

Being less expensive, and in some cases free or nearly free, using things we can largely source around our yards and homes for better training than static cardboard and paper, with easy and minimal assembly or planning and time to set them up… really and truly, when it comes to both shooting and prepping, it just does not get much better than cheapo targets.

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from The Prepper Journal Don't forget to visit the store and pick up some gear at The COR Outfitters. How prepared are you for emergencies? #SurvivalFirestarter #SurvivalBugOutBackpack #PrepperSurvivalPack #SHTFGear #SHTFBag

[johnniestrack-blog]

Alpaca Fiber - Felting For Enjoyable And Revenue

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