how i take moon photos, and how you can too using the same method (regular camera version)
long post
ok so this is the first of a 2 part thing, one part (this part) will go over how i shoot moon photos with my regular photography camera and the other part will go over how i make larger mosaics with a telescope.
this is a method i've developed over the past 6 months, mainly for getting the most i can out of just a telephoto lens.
going to start by going over the equipment you need/the equipment i use for this:
a basic dslr/mirrorless camera. i use the nikon Z5, but it doesn’t matter which one really. it helps if it can shoot video at full resolution.
a telephoto lens, on a crop sensor camera it should be at least 200mm (and on a full frame, 300mm is preferable). i use a nikon F/4.5-5.6 70-300mm.
a tripod. this is really basic, any tripod works, it’s pretty much irrelevant as long as you have one.
that’s all the equipment you need, to take shots like this:
yes, you can do this with a regular nikon and telephoto lens. i took this with the gear stated above, using the processes i will now describe below.
alright so the first step is what i call gathering data.
this is when you’re actually outside shooting, all the images you’ll need for later processing. assuming the conditions are ok (meaning the moon is out, not blocked by clouds and isn’t right on the horizon), i go out and set up the gear.
during this period of time i’m trying to get 1 thing, but if the moon is full; 2, possibly 3 things.
the first thing is your main moon data. depending on whether you have a camera that can record in higher resolution, this can take the form of either recording a video or snapping a bunch of single shots (if you do the latter, make sure to use an inbuilt intervalometer if the camera has one. or get a regular one if you don't, it's a big help)
i usually do a 10 minute recording, which is about how long it takes the moon to move across my camera frame. at 30fps, this equates to about 18,000 frames.
the point of recording isn't to have a video, but mainly to 𝘯𝘰𝘵 have 18,000 individual photos. a video is just a concise way of producing and containing a TON of images really easily.
so you took a video, or depending on your camera you took a bunch of images, that's the first part done.
remember how i said, if there's a full moon or closer to it, i'm trying to get 2-3 things here? that's for me personally, because i often shoot composites during a full moon. skip this next part if you don't plan on that.
for reference, here's a composited vs non-composited version
now the second thing i want to get is my composite shot. it's only feasible during a close to full moon, because otherwise the edge in shadow will always look weird with the glow added. the composite shot itself is usually a few overexposed images (all at slightly different settings), to show the moon's glow and/or sometimes a few bright stars.
typically i just change the settings around, and shoot like 5-10 different exposures manually, but exposure bracketing could probably work too here. i haven't tried it.
as long as you can't see any features on the moon, and the sky around it is noticeably brightened, you're good in terms of exposure. just make sure the edge of the moon is still visible, that's necessary for compositing later.
if there are any nice clouds out, i also try to wait and get a few shots with those near the moon.
the third optional thing (still under compositing, keep skipping if you aren't) is taking a shot or two of the blank sky with stars, to composite a shot like this:
this is a very quick thing, just point your camera somewhere away from the moon where you see a few stars, and take a couple second exposure to bring them out. you can zoom out more than whatever you're at for the moon shot to get some more stars, or keep it the same. either way works.
alright now we're back to the main part of the guide.
you've got your moon data at this point, your equipment is brought in, now you just have to do the processing.
with this method most of the work is the processing, i'll try to cover it all quickly here
firstly you need to process the main moon data. all i have is a video at this point, i need to turn that into a real finished image
doing this processing requires a couple programs (most of which are windows-only), but are all 100% free. if you intend on doing moon photography often, i would recommend getting a very cheap windows laptop for this purpose. quality doesn't matter whatsoever.
the first program i use is called PIPP (planetary image preprocesser), and this is mainly used to get your video in a state where it can be processed.
i typically upload the video, set it to crop every frame right around the moon (all that black space is extra processing time!), sort the frames by quality and cut out maybe 50% or 75% but this depends on how many frames i took. in my case of 18k, this cuts me down to 9k or 5k or so.
the resulting, processed video (once again using video as an image holding format because it's easy) is then exported to the next program: Autostakkert.
this one is to stack the images, into one really nice image. stacking is why i took so many images in the first place, i won't explain all the logistics of stacking here, but just know that it works and you should do it. stacking is one huge improvement you can make to your shots that's very easy to do.
so in autostakkert, i cull about 50% more of the frames, and stack the remainder of them.
personally i also drizzle 1.5x (drizzling = image upscaling basically) because on a 300mm telephoto lens and full frame camera, the moon is just not that many pixels. you can do whatever on this, if you're at 600mm or 800mm it's probably not as necessary, but it's really helpful at anything below that.
once it stacks, i take the resulting image into a third program: Registax.
this one i use for one sole purpose, wavelets. it's an optional step, and once again i will not explain in any detail how they work, but the result is basically a good sharpening tool. like REALLY good. i recommend trying it.
it's a simple program, i just upload the image and then change the wavelet sliders until it's sharpened to a nice degree.
and lastly, i export that image over to a regular photo editor. photoshop if you have it, lightroom works too only if you aren't compositing, i personally use photopea which is a very nice photoshop clone website that's free. look it up.
what i do here is just basic photo editing stuff first, expand the crop and add black (remember, in my case the stacked image was cropped all the way in), sharpen it a little more, up the saturation maybe for mineral colors, etc.
in here i also usually upscale the image again, this is optional
if you did not intend on compositing, and don't care how i do it, you're done! you should have a very passable moon shot at the moment, or if you're just reading out of curiousity, a very passable understanding of how i take them.
if you do care, here's the process:
so firstly i bring up the final cropped and finished edit of the main moon in the photo editor, and the composite shot on another layer above it. lower the opacity, then line up/resize the glow moon with the regular moon.
next you basically just get a low opacity/low hardness eraser, and erase the center of the glow moon so the regular surface detail shows through in the middle, but the edges stay glowy- and then i increase opacity back to full again.
it can take a few tries and messing around to get this part to look right, but making sure they're lined up perfectly is half the battle.
now you have a composited full moon, that looks something like this!
whether you're using it as a guide with your own shots (if so, good luck on them!) or just wanted to know how i take them, i hope you enjoyed the guide; i like to be transparent with how i make stuff, especially with something like this where most people have no idea how the photo is created behind the scenes.
- all the photos in this post were taken solely on my nikon Z5 camera, F/4.5-5.6 70-300mm lens and tripod.
- part 2 for the telescope mosaics will be coming in the near future most likely
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