#H. Moser Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

[swisswatches-magazine]

With LM101 MB&F x H. Moser and the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser x MB&F, Edouard Meylan of H. Moser & Cie. and Maximilian Büsser of MB&F have created two watch models, that have emerged through the year-long friendship of the two men. The full story, including all watches on Swisswatches Magazine now. (at Munich, Germany) https://www.instagram.com/p/CA-ARYDBECP/?igshid=ptt6bo53ngvc

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[gearcafe]

H. Moser and MB&F Partner for Limited Edition Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Iconic Swiss watchmakers H. Moser & Cie and MB&F are collaborating on a series of limited-edition luxury timepieces perfect for those who appreciate exceptional watchmaking and also have access to near-limitless cash reserves. You’ll also like: Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantième Hits the Goldilocks Mark […] Visit Man of Many for the full post.

[manofmanytastes]

H. Moser and MB&F Partner for Limited Edition Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

[neueuhren]

Performance Art a la H. Moser & Cie. und MB&F

Performance Art a la H. Moser & Cie. und MB&F steht für eine Kooperation, die gemeinsame Stärken betont. Edouard Meylan (H.Moser & Cie) und Maximilian Büsser (MB&F), zwei Freigeister der Haute Horlogerie, haben sich zusammengetan, entstanden sind dabei zwei neue Interpretationen ihrer individueller Marken-DNA.

Als außergewöhnlichen Ausdruck einer mehr als zehn Jahre bestehenden Verbindung…

[watchilove]

In this crowning expression of the ties binding H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F for more than ten years, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser have composed a duet recital in the form of an exceptional concerto for devotees of fine watchmaking. For the first time in its history, MB&F is contributing to a Performance Art endeavour flowing in both directions in an entirely reciprocal manner. Within this framework, the two Maisons are co-signing a pair of creations whose DNA blends the main characteristics of each. A story of friendship between two men against a backdrop of shared values, for the pleasure of building and sharing, and then of jointly presenting the results of this extraordinary project.

Project Origins

H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F are both independent, human-scale Swiss companies. They are run by two passionate personalities, longstanding acquaintances who both appreciate and respect each other on both a personal and professional level. The brands have in fact been working together for more than ten years, with Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of H. Moser & Cie. – notably supplying MB&F’s balance springs.

Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan

It is therefore not surprising that MB&F asked Edouard Meylan to take part as a „friend“ to help create a Performance Arts piece. The latest aspect of this collaboration lies in its being a two-way street. Maximilian Büsser says: „When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking? I therefore agreed and suggested the FlyingT model, which is particularly dear to my heart.“

In a spirit of sharing and openness, while cultivating the notion of strength in unity, H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have thus jointly created two models, available in several versions and issued in 15-piece limited series. This number is a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F as well as honouring the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. By pooling their strengths, these two competing yet friendly brands are working to harness the combined strengths of talented artisans, entirely in keeping with the philosophy adopted by MB&F.

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F

H. Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, a strong element of the Geneva Maison’s identity, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o’clock. Benefiting from the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, the same as that developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&F’s LM Thunderdome.

Invented in the 18th century, the cylindrical balance spring is reminiscent of a worm- or corkscrew, rising perpendicularly around the upper rod of the balance staff. Commonly used in historical marine chronometers at the time, it offers the advantage of developing concentrically, and therefore geometrically, since it works perfectly along the axis of its pivots. This gives it a significant advantage over the flat balance spring, whose opposite ends tend to exert forces on the pivots, despite the Philips or Breguet terminal curves which were specifically developed to partially correct the non-concentric opening of the balance spring.

Fitted with a Breguet overcoil at both attachment points, the cylindrical balance spring reduces pivot friction and greatly improves isochronism. Due to its specific shape, the cylindrical balance spring is far more difficult to produce and takes ten times longer to make than a traditional balance spring.

Another reference to MB&F’s identity lies in the tilted dials, which H. Moser & Cie. has adopted for its hour and minute subdial. This is inclined at 40° so that the owner of the watch is the only one to whom it reveals the secret of time, and mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other.

As Edouard Meylan explains: „We have Moserized the MB&F universe by developing a sapphire subdial, which melts into the background so as to highlight the beauty of our fumé dials. And to preserve the purity and elegance of this true work of horological art, we have inscribed our logo like a watermark on the sapphire subdial, thereby underlining the personal character and intimate relationship binding it to its owner“.

Available in five different versions, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F model comes in a steel case topped by Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue dials, all of the fumé variety.

LM101 MB&F × H. Moser

The Legacy Machine 101 distils the very quintessence of mechanical watchmaking: the balance wheel, the power reserve and the passing of time. It is therefore no coincidence that MB&F has chosen to revisit this model – one of the purest and „simplest“ in its collection – since it is indeed minimalism that guided the creation of the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser model.

Like H. Moser & Cie. and the “back to basics” approach embodied in its Concept watch series, MB&F has chosen to remove its logo and return to its roots and indeed to the very origins of horology, when only the movements were signed. In the same understated spirit, it has abandoned the floating domed subdials to display the hours and minutes as well as the 45-hour power reserve by means of hands placed directly on the main dial.

The fumé dials borrowed from H. Moser & Cie. can thus be expressed in complete freedom, also enhanced by a refined bezel. Four fumé dials have been chosen for the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser: Red fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Aqua Blue fumé and, of course, the famous Funky Blue fumé. Topped with a domed sapphire crystal, the case is made of steel, for only the third time in the history of MB&F.

The mesmerising large suspended balance wheel continues to take centre stage, albeit completely redesigned on the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser in order to highlight the beauty of the fumé dials. This beating heart, which represents the quintessence of watchmaking in the eyes of Maximilian Büsser, has been fitted with a double balance spring produced by Precision Engineering AG.

Thanks to this pair of matching balance springs, the displacement of the point of gravity undergone by each spring as it expands is corrected, significantly improving precision and isochronism in a continuous quest for perfection. In addition, the paired balance springs also reduce the friction effect normally encountered with a single balance spring, resulting in optimised isochronism.

Through the case back, the curved sapphire crystal reveals the ‘engine’ driving this timepiece. Unlike the base movement of the Legacy Machine 101, of which the finishes were determined by co-creator Kari Voutilainen, the aesthetics of the calibre that powers the LM101 MB&F × H. Moser is more contemporary, with a subtle NAC treatment to enhance its beauty.

Fruitful Cooperation

Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser are delighted with this rewarding collaborative project, which has achieved results far exceeding their expectations. In addition to the beauty of the models created in tandem, two bodies of expertise and two sets of DNA have been blended and mutually enriched. The two different communities of the two Maisons have also pooled their skills in a wonderful spirit of openness and transparency. This experience leaves Edouard and Maximilian with a keen sense of coming back to a sense of pleasure: the pleasure of working together and of creating.

Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan

H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Technical Specifications

Reference 1810-1200

Steel model, Funky Blue fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces

Reference 1810-1201

Steel model, Burgundy fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces

Reference 1810-1202

Steel model, Cosmic Green fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces

Reference 1810-1203

Steel model, Off-White fumé dial, blued hours and minutes hands, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces

Reference 1810-1205

Steel model, Ice Blue fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces

Case

Steel topped by a high domed sapphire crystal

Diameter: 42.0 mm

Height: 19.5 mm

Height without crystal sapphire: 9.4 mm

Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with a “M“

See-through sapphire crystal case back

Dial

 Main dial: Funky Blue fumé, Burgundy fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé or Ice Blue fumé with sunburst pattern

Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock

The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, blued on the reference 1810-1203

Movement

HMC 810 three- dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre

Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes

Height: 5.5 mm

Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour

29 jewels

184 components

Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system

Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo

Power reserve: minimum 72 hours

Cylindrical hairspring

One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges

Functions

Hours and minutes

Strap

Hand-stitched black alligator leather

Steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo

MB&F × H. Moser LM101 Technical Specifications

Reference LM101 MB&F × H. Moser

Steel model,

Funky Blue fumé,

Cosmic Green fumé,

Red fumé or

Aqua Blue fumé dial,

Calfskin leather strap,

limited edition of 15 pieces for each reference

Engine

Three-dimensional horological movement developed in-house by MB&F

Movement aesthetics and finishing specifications: Kari Voutilainen

Manual winding with single mainspring barrel

Power reserve: 45 hours

Balance wheel: Bespoke 14mm balance wheel with four traditional regulating screws floating above the movement

Balance spring: Straumann® double hairspring

Balance frequency: 18,000bph/2.5Hz

221 components

23 jewels

Chatons: gold chatons with polished countersinks

Fine finishing: superlative 19th century-style hand finishing throughout; internal bevel angles highlighting hand craft; polished bevels; Geneva waves; hand-made engravings, NAC black bridges

Functions

Hours, minutes and power reserve indicator

Large balance wheel suspended above the dial

Case

Available in 4 limited editions of 15 pieces in stainless steel 316, including a special edition with Aqua Blue fumé dial made for the retailer Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons.

Diameter: 40.0 mm

Height: 16.0 mm

35 components

High domed crystal sapphire on top and box sapphire crystal on back, both with anti-reflective coating on both sides

Dial

Funky Blue fumé,

Cosmic Green fumé,

Red fumé

Aqua Blue fumé with sunburst pattern

Strap

Hand-stitched calfskin strap

Steel 316L and titanium folding clasp

H. Moser & Cie.

H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs around 60 people, has developed 14 in-house calibres to date and produces more than 1,500 watches per annum. Through its sister company Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. Independent company incorporated into Moser Watch Holding in 2012, Precision Engineering AG specialises in watch components for escapements, from their initial design to the production of a quality product ready to be integrated into the watch movement it must regulate. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie. and Hautlence. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.

MB&F

After a 15-year career in management at prestigious brands, Maximilian Büsser left his role as CEO of Harry Winston in 2005 to create MB&F – Maximilian Büsser & Friends. MB&F is a laboratory dedicated to art and micromechanical engineering, set up to design and create small editions of radical watches, the fruit of collaboration with exceptional professional watchmakers, chosen by Maximilian Büsser for their talent and working methods.

In 2007, MB&F unveiled the HM1, its first Horological Machine. With its sculptural three-dimensional case and finely decorated movement, the HM1 set the tone for the Horological Machines that were to follow – Machines which symbolise time rather than merely Machines used to read it.

In 2011, MB&F released the Legacy Machines collection. These round pieces are more classic than MB&F’s other creations, and pay tribute to the watchmaking excellence of the 19th century, reinterpreting the complications from innovative key watchmaking figures as objects of contemporary art.

H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and MB&F X Moser LM101 Image Gallery

Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan

Maximilian Büsser and Edouard Meylan

H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and MB&F X Moser LM101 In this crowning expression of the ties binding H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F for more than ten years, Edouard Meylan and Maximilian Büsser have composed a duet recital in the form of an exceptional concerto for devotees of fine watchmaking.

[watchilove]

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F Technical Specifications and Price Reference 1810-1205 Steel model, Ice Blue fumé dial, black alligator leather strap, limited edition of 15 pieces Case Steel topped by a high domed sapphire crystal Diameter: 42.0 mm Height: 19.5 mm Height without crystal sapphire: 9.4 mm Crown at 9 o’clock, engraved with a “M“ See-through sapphire crystal case back Dial Main dial: Ice Blue fumé with a sunburst pattern (and with variation Funky Blue fumé, Burgundy fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé) Hours and the minutes displayed on a 40° vertically tilted sapphire dial at 6 o’clock The leaf-shaped hour and minute hands, blued on the reference 1810-1203 Movement HMC 810 three-dimensional automatic Manufacture calibre Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes Height: 5.5 mm Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour 29 jewels 184 components Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system Oscillating weight in 18-carat gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo Power reserve: minimum 72 hours Cylindrical hairspring One-minute flying tourbillon at 12 o’clock with skeletonised bridges Functions Hours and minutes Strap Hand-stitched black alligator leather Steel folding clasp engraved with the Moser logo Price CHF 79 000 Link in bio https://www.instagram.com/p/CHkKGtRLDSj/?igshid=9nwprbok5ac0

[watchilove]

One of the nice surprises of GPHG 2020 was the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F as the winner of the Audacity Prize. Even now, a day later I am still thrilled about this result. Because H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and MB&F X Moser LM101 are two pieces of the greatest horological collaboration ever. And as much as I love both watches, only the H. Moser & Cie wristwatch won. https://www.instagram.com/p/CHkJVxcLsGf/?igshid=o629awvhgiqt

[watchilove]

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F Another reference to MB&F’s identity lies in the tilted dials, which H. Moser & Cie. has adopted for its hour and minute subdial. This is inclined at 40° so that the owner of the watch is the only one to whom it reveals the secret of time, and mounted on a conical gear train ensuring optimal torque transmission from one plane to the other. https://www.instagram.com/p/CA-GbMsnBUo/?igshid=mdv8wqaxdzw6

[watchilove]

Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser × MB&F . Moser & Cie. has borrowed from MB&F the concept of three-dimensional movements, a strong element of the Geneva Maison’s identity, protected by a sapphire dome and featuring a one-minute flying tourbillon that rises above the main dial through a ventricular opening appearing at 12 o’clock. Benefiting from the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, H. Moser & Cie. has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical balance spring, the same as that developed by Precision Engineering AG for MB&F’s LM Thunderdome. https://www.instagram.com/p/CA-BZ7XHg1o/?igshid=evjin0xi86xp

[wristwatchjournal]

News – GPHG 2020 Finalists Announced (Full List)

Every year, the watchmaking industry celebrates creativity and ingenuity with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) or the so-called “Oscars of the Watchmaking Industry” – see the report for the 2019 edition here. The most advanced, the most innovative and the most creative timepieces will be awarded prizes at the GPHG 2020. Before the ceremony takes place (November 12, 2020), we’re bringing you, hot off the press, the complete list of finalists selected by the Jury. Only six watches remain in each of the 14 categories, and here they are.

Note: if you want to share your predictions with us, feel free to use to comment box at the end of this article.

Ladies

Women’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 8-carat gemsetting.

Beauregard Lili

Bovet 1822 Miss Audrey

Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Bouton perle

Dior Montres Dior Grand Bal Ruban

Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de diamants et saphirs

Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Dégradé de Saphirs

Ladies’ Complication

Women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, digital or retrograde time display, world time, second time zone or other types of models) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon

Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse « fleur de sel »

Jacob & Co Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow

Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace

Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant

Men’s

Men’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 5-carat gemsetting.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial

De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky

Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green

Petermann Bédat Seconde morte

Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition

Voutilainen 28SC

Men’s Complication

Men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. world time, dual-time or other types of models) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.

Bovet 1822 Récital 27

De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon

Girard-Perregaux Quasar Light

Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1

Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT

MB&F HM10 Bulldog Ti

Iconic

Men’s or ladies’ watches from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.

Breitling Chronomat B01 42

Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Edition (42mm)

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronographe

Piaget Altiplano Origin Automatic

Seiko Professional Diver’s 1000M

Chronometry

Mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Stainless steel

Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer

Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity

Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2

H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F

Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris

calendar and astronomy

Men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Behrens Apolaire

Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide

Parmigiani Fleurier Calendrier Perpétuel Hégirien

Sarpaneva Watches Lunations Harvest Moon

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Quantième Perpétuel Ultra-Plat Squelette

mechanical exception

Men’s and/or ladies’ watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a belt-driven movement or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.

Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance

Bovet 1822 Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter 2

Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron

MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept

Ressence Type 2A

chronograph

Mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.

Atelier de Chronométrie Chronographe à rattrapante

Breitling Top Time Limited Edition

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic

Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka Kurono Chronograph 1

Louis Moinet Memoris Superlight

Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Acier

diver’s

Watches linked to the world of diving, whose functions, materials and design are suited to this activity.

Breitling Superocean Automatic 48 Boutique Edition

Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers

Grand Seiko 9RA5 Professional Diver’s 600M

Ming 18.01 H41

Reservoir Hydrosphere Bronze x Revolution “The Maldives Edition”

Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn

JEWELLERY

Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones.

Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Intrecciati

Chopard Magari

Dior Montres Dior Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles

Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Full Ruby

Piaget Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie Opale Noire

Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Frivole Secrète

ARTISTIC CRAFTS

Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.

Andersen Genève Heures Sautantes 40ème Anniversaire

Bovet 1822 Amadéo Tourbillon Squelette 7 Jours

Dior Montres Dior Grand Bal Plume

Hermès Arceau Into the Canadian Wild

Jacob & Co Astronomia Sky Phoenix

Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique

PETITE AIGUILLE

Watches with a retail price between CHF 4,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.

Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton

Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II

Habring2 Chrono Felix Panda

IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40

Sarpaneva Watches Sarpaneva x Moomin

Trilobe Secret

CHALLENGE

Watches with a retail price under CHF 4,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.

Behrens Rotary

Breitling Endurance Pro

Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka Kurono Anniversary Green ‘森:Mori’

Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein

Ming 27.01 Ultra Plat

Tudor Fifty-Eight

Along with these 14 clearly defined categories, the GPHG 2020 will also give an award to watches falling in these categories:

Innovation Prize

This prize rewards the best watch, presented in one of the fourteen categories, that offers an innovative vision of time measurement (in terms of technique, design, materials, etc.) and opens up new development pathways for the watchmaking art. This prize is discretionary and the jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2020.

Audacity Prize

This prize rewards the best watch, presented in one of the fourteen categories, which features a non-conformist, offbeat approach to watchmaking. It is intended to foster creative audacity. This prize is discretionary and the jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2020.

“Horological Revelation” Prize

This prize rewards a watch, created by a young brand (less than ten years of existence since its first model was commercialised) and entered in one of the fourteen categories. It may also reward the mechanical creation of a young talent, in the event that none of the competing watches should be considered worthy of receiving this prize. This prize is optional and the jury will decide whether it should be awarded in 2020.

Smartwatch Prize

This prize rewards the best smartwatch entered in the competition. This prize is discretionary, the Jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2020.

Special Jury Prize

This prize rewards a personality, institution or initiative that has played a fundamental role in promoting high-quality watchmaking. It cannot be awarded to a watch, nor to a brand as such.

Aiguille d’Or

The best of the show, the “Palme d’Or” of the watchmaking industry, a.k.a. the GPHG 2020 prize for the best watch of the year.

More details at www.gphg.org.

The post News – GPHG 2020 Finalists Announced (Full List) appeared first on Wristwatch Journal.

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Buying Guide – 5 Of The Most Striking Tourbillon Watches Recently Introduced

The Tourbillon is, without doubt, one of the most spectacular and prestigious complications – a must-have in the collection of a respectable watchmaker. Invented to counteract the effects of gravity on the regulating organ of mechanical watches, this now-ubiquitous mechanism has remained long the preserve of a few watchmakers. The past few months have brought their share of new tourbillon watches… and here are five great options.

Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367PT Blue Enamel

When thinking about tourbillon watches, Breguet, the inventor of this mechanism, immediately comes to mind. Among the latest creations of the brand, the visually striking combination of blue enamel and platinum ultra-thin tourbillon is unapologetically elegant. 41mm in diameter, the lithe case houses the Calibre 581, an ultra-thin, automatic tourbillon with a peripheral rotor. This superbly hand-decorated movement includes modern solutions with a titanium tourbillon carriage. The escapement and the balance spring are made of silicon. The power reserve is comfortable, at 80 hours. www.breguet.com.

Quick facts: 41mm x 7.45mm – platinum case – blue grand feu enamel dial – Calibre 581, in-house – automatic with peripheral rotor – hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon – alligator strap with platinum folding buckle – CHF 158,000

Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda White Gold

La Esmeralda is surely one of the most exquisite examples of a horological icon created in the late 19th century, the Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon with three gold bridges. The majestic architecture of the movement stands out with rounded-off arrow-shaped bridges aligned on a guilloche plate. The finishing is simply flawless. The power reserve is of 60 hours and the calibre is wound by a platinum micro-rotor fitted concentrically under the barrel. The latest edition of the Esmeralda is presented in a 44mm white gold case and worn on a black alligator strap. www.girard-perregaux.com.

Quick facts: 44mm x 14.55mm – white gold case – calibre GP09400-0016, in-house – automatic with platinum micro-rotor – hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon – alligator strap with gold folding buckle – CHF 212,000

H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

This spring 2020, Edouard Meylan (H. Moser & Cie.) and Maximilian Büsser (MB&F) presented co-signed creations, giving birth to some surprising and interesting horological cross-hybridization, pooling their skills. One of them is the H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, which borrows MB&F’s three-dimensional movement concept. Protected by an impressive sapphire dome, a one-minute flying tourbillon fitted with an impressive cylindrical hairspring rises above a fumé dial through an opening at 12 o’clock. The 42mm case comes is steel. Several gradient dial versions (each limited to 15 pieces) are available. www.h-moser.com.

Quick facts: 42mm x 19.5mm – steel case – Calibre HMC810, in-house automatic – hours, minutes and one-minute central flying tourbillon – alligator strap with steel folding buckle – limited editions of 15 pieces – CHF 79,000

Omega De Ville Tourbillon Master Chronometer

If Omega has made a name for itself with iconic sports watches, the brand can release stunning high-end complications. The new De Ville Tourbillon with a centrally-mounted Co-Axial tourbillon, a Master Chronometer (antimagnetic) in-house movement is a great example of the Haute Horlogerie expertise of the brand. With the central tourbillon, the hands are mounted on sapphire discs. Visible via the caseback, the calibre features a mainplate and bridges made from 18k Sedna gold and superb high-end finishing. The 43mm case is made of a combination of two gold alloys. 18k Sedna Gold (the brand’s proprietary rose gold alloy) is used for the lugs, bezel and caseback. 18k Canopus gold (the brand’s proprietary white gold alloy) is used for the central body, buckle logo and crown logo. www.omegawatches.com.

Quick facts: 43mm – Sedna gold and Canopus gold case – Calibre Omega 2640, in-house – hand-wound – hours, minutes and one-minute central flying tourbillon – black alligator strap – CHF 162,750

Remy Cools Tourbillon Souscription

The Tourbillon Souscription is an evolution and an improved version of Remy Cools (a young independent watchmaker) school watch. Fashioned out of steel, the case measures 40mm x 15mm. Visible under an impressive sapphire dome, the hand-wound movement is entirely handmade. The symmetrical architecture of the dial is built around an oversized one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock and off-centred hours and minutes indication at 12 o’clock. The two-part silver dial is finely micro-blasted, hand-engraved and circular-brushed at the periphery. These elements stand out from the movement with minimalistic but beautiful micro-blasted decoration and distinctive stepped bridges (inspired by Breguet and Daniels). At the back of the watch, two symmetrical flip-up keys allow you to wind the movement and to set the time. The Tourbillon Souscription is a limited production of nine watches only and it is available through a subscription program. www.remycools.com.

Quick facts: 40mm x 15mm – steel case – hand-wound in-house movement – hours, minutes and one-minute tourbillon – black alligator strap with steel pin buckle – limited edition of 9 pieces available on subscription – CHF 85,000

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Introducing The H. Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon And The MB&F x H. Moser LM10 Watches

BY HARLAN CHAPMAN-GREEN

You know when you get a combination of two things, and it’s just a match made in heaven? I’m thinking something like Cadbury’s Dairy Milk & Oreo level heaven. Well now, there’s a new partnership on the block, and it’s between H. Moser & Cie and MB&F. They have produced two unique watches that combine their brand’s DNA in different ways, one using the classic MB&F layout, and the other using H. Moser & Cie’s expertise with tourbillons. Let’s take a look.

Up first is the Moser piece that’s had a dusting of MB&F sprinkled over, the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. This watch uses a cylindrical hairspring on its balance wheel, rather than a traditional flat or overcoil spring. These are extremely hard to make and deserve their own article to explain. To keep it brief, the shape of the spring means that it can expand and contract perfectly and evenly across the entire oscillation of the balance wheel. This means that the watch is more accurate than a regular flat hairspring and indeed more accurate than an overcoil too. You don’t see it so often due to its complexity and the fact that it’s quite large, meaning you get a thicker watch.

That extra depth is easily observed in the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. The automatic calibre is called the HMC 810, and the tourbillon ascends through the dial thanks to its cylindrical hairspring. At the 6 O’clock position is MB&F’s primary influence here. The time dial has been inclined to 40 degrees and is mostly translucent with blue hands, giving this a modern yet minimalistic design. The differential behind the dial that allows the hands to work is also displayed and has been immaculately finished. Despite all this complexity, the watch has a 72-hour power reserve, making it somewhat useful. It does have an enormous domed sapphire crystal, though, so tight cuffs will not get on well with this one. It measures in at 42mm in diameter and 19.5mm thick and is made from stainless steel. There will be five colours for the dial, and a total of 75 watches made with each costing $79,000.

The alternative is called the MB&F x Moser LM101, essentially an MB&F with Moser DNA added to it. The charismatic design remains, including the MB&F hallmark balance wheel that floats over the dial. It’s also got a Moser Fumé gradient dial and Moser’s standard leaf hands telling the time. Where Moser’s influence kicks in is with the hands which have no markers at all. It’s manually wound with a 2.5Hz beat rate as you find on the “standard” MB&F. It’s also a little smaller, measuring at 40mm wide and 16mm thick yet it still has the domed sapphire crystal. There will be 60 of these in total, with four different dial colours, each watch will cost a mere $52,000.

This is an exciting collaboration, and I hope we get to see more of it from these two in the future. Things like MB&F’s perpetual calendar but with interchangeable parts like Moser’s tourbillon range, now that has some potential.

Related

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Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie X MB&F Collaborate On Two Remarkable Steel Watches

I don’t know how many truly great collaborations there have been between watch brands, but it’s not many. These days there is no shortage of watch brands partnering with non-watch brands, car brands, and media outlets but you almost never see it with two watch brands. However, MB&F and H. Moser & Cie, led by Max Büsser and Edouard Meylan, respectively, joined forces to put out this pair of limited edition steel watches. The H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and the MB&F X H. Moser LM101 take some of the best design cues from each other while maximizing their shared relationship with Precision Engineering AG.

How did the two get connected and carry out this collaboration? According to the brands:

Maximilian Büsser says: “When I called Edouard to tell him that I wanted to collaborate on a creation, I mentioned that I really liked the double balance-spring, the Moser fumé dials and the Concept watch series. Edouard immediately told me that he would let me borrow these features, but on condition that he could also reinterpret one of my machines. After an initial moment of surprise, I gave it some thought. Being 50% Indian and 50% Swiss, I am firmly convinced that mixing DNA creates interesting results, so why not try the experiment in watchmaking?”

They have created fifteen pieces of each fumé dial variant, a number chosen because of the timing of the 15th anniversary of MB&F and the 15th anniversary of H. Moser & Cie’s relaunch. I got my hands on one dial variant each, so let’s get to it.

H. Moser X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

I was absolutely floored when I first picked up the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon and put it on my wrist. It’s not accurate to describe it as a bauble since there is a highly sophisticated horological mechanism at work inside, but it is, above all, designed to delight. The idiosyncratically attention-grabbing and intentionally impractical domed sapphire crystal design makes it basically impossible to forget you have this work of art on your wrist. The Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon case will be immediately reminiscent to many as a take on MB&F’s first women’s watch, the Legacy Machine Flying T and last year’s MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome, being sized right between the two. The domed display case (which reminds me of the glass covering over the enchanted rose in Beauty and the Beast shrunk to fit on a wrist) rises 10mm over the 9.4mm-thick case.

There are five fumé dial variants: Funky blue; Cosmic Green; Off-White; Ice Blue; and Burgundy, which is the one I spent time with and that you see here. There are just two distinct dial aspects across the fumé canvass. At 12 o’clock is the one-minute flying tourbillon that has a cylindrical balance spring, done by Moser’s sister company Precision Engineering AG. This is the same balance spring that was first used in the MB&F LM Thunderdome, which itself was a masterpiece in three-dimensional movements.

Having a relatively tall cylindrical balance spring, as opposed to a more real-estate-conscious flat balance spring, has everything to do with the theatrical intent behind its design. It’s a marvel to watch, almost resembling an organ in the body, concentrically at work. Obviously, there is a horological motivation in addition to aesthetics with improved isochronism due to a reduction in friction.

At six o’clock is a Moser take on the MB&F tilted subdial design, which was done in white lacquer on the LM Thunderdome but is done in sapphire on the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon. The reason behind using sapphire is simple — they wanted to have as little disturbance of the fumé dial as possible. Tilted at 40 degrees, the subdial is intended to really only allow the wearer to tell the time. Fortunately, the hour and minute hands are actually pretty legible, which is still important even on a watch like this.

Beneath the subdial sits the blacked conical gear train, which appears to fan out like mechanical peacock feathers from certain angles. I believe the MB&F HM9 also had a unique conical gear train system for its horizontally oriented subdials. All this is powered by the new HMC 810 three-dimensional movement, made possible by Precision Engineering AG, which also worked with MB&F on its LM Thunderdome movement. With a cylindrical balance spring, one-minute flying tourbillon finished with skeletonized bridges, and a recognizable gold rotor with Moser logo, the HMC 810 operates at 21,600 vph and has a 75-hour power reserve.

All five variants of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon are done in steel, measuring 42mm-wide and 19.5mm-thick with the domed crystal (9.4mm without). The overall quirky vibe of the piece is furthered by the crown being at 9 o’clock, which is certainly a little disorienting when wearing it for the first time. There will be a total of 75 H. Moser & Cie X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillons, with fifteen pieces in each of the five colorways.

LM101 MB&F X H. Moser

The LM101 is what happens when MB&F’s base Legacy Machine LM101 meets Moser’s minimalist-dial Concept line.  The result is a novel and fresh take on the Legacy Machine that, like the Endeavour, feels like a true thoughtful collaboration that is executed with near perfection. Already one of the most, if not the single-most, wearable MB&F watches, the LM101 is getting new life breathed into it since debuting back in 2014. There are four variants of this watch: Aqua Blue fumé; Red fumé; Cosmic Green fumé; and Moser’s stunning Funky Blue fumé, which is the version I got my hands on.

The most immediately noticeable departure from the original Legacy Machine 101 is the removal of the floating subdials, leaving just the hour/minute and power-reserve indicator hands. As much as I enjoy MB&F’s recognizable subdials, I would prefer this iteration over the classic a hundred times out of a hundred. The brand name, logo, and any text whatsoever have also been removed from the dial, which is an echo of the Moser Concept collection, resulting in a clean dial that allows the focus to stay on the most essential elements of the watch.

Of course, that large 14mm-wide centered balance wheel and its supporting bridges dominate the dial. Still visually wondrous and architectural, there is now a Straumann double balance spring to improve accuracy and isochronism, courtesy of Precision Engineering AG.

The double AR-coated sapphire crystal is domed (though, obviously, nowhere nearly as much Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon), allowing for a surprisingly legible view of the dial. This AR coating is doubly important because there’s nothing more disappointing than having to struggle to appreciate the design and finish on a watch like this.

The manually wound movement seen through the case back on this LM101 is not finished by Kari Voutilainen as the original was, but rather is given a slightly more contemporary treatment. With NAC black bridges, hand-done engraving, and Geneva stripes, the movement is all hand-finished and expectedly beautiful in the metal. With a 45-hour power reserve, the LM101 movement operates at 18,000 vph which allows for the unique structure of the movement with its view of the large balance wheel on the dial.

The 40mm-wide and 16mm-thick steel case with off-center crown is pretty ideally sized, in my opinion. In fact, it’s downright wearable. On the wrist, the LM101 wears perfectly and having a more, let’s say, conservatively sized sapphire crystal than the Endeavour doesn’t hurt either.

I truly think these are two of the most appealing watches released recently by either MB&F or H. Moser & Cie, which is solid praise for both of them. With Precision Engineering AG’s resources and a clearly present mutual appreciation between these two independent brands, the two were able to pull off a serious design and watchmaking focused collaboration.

The H. Moser & Cie X MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon will be available in five variants: Funky Blue fumé, Cosmic Green fumé, Off-White fumé, Burgundy fumé, and an Ice Blue fumé, the last of which will only be available on the Moser e-commerce page, while the rest will be available at authorized retailers. Each variant is limited to 15 pieces, each with a price of $79,000. You can see more at h-moser.com.

The MB&F X H. Moser LM101 will be available in four variants: Aqua Blue fumé; Red fumé; Cosmic Green fumé; and Funky Blue fumé. These will only be available at authorized retailers. Each variant is limited to 15 pieces, each with a price of $52,000. You can see more at mbandf.com.

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Introducing – H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon (Live Pics & Price)

Watch collaborations are not new, on the contrary. For a creative laboratory like MB&F, working with ‘friends’ is second nature. And when H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F team up for a collaboration piece (actually, two pieces, more in another article), the result is truly special. Edouard Meylan (H. Moser & Cie.) and Maximilian Büsser (MB&F) are presenting co-signed creations, giving birth to some surprising and interesting types of horological cross-hybridization, pooling their skills… Let’s take a closer look at one of these two watches, the new H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon.

The independent brands H. Moser & Cie. and MB&F have been working together for more than ten years with Precision Engineering AG – a sister company of Moser supplying MB&F’s balance springs. Their CEOs appreciate and respect each other on both a personal and professional level. When Max Büsser called Edouard Meylan for a collaboration, mentioning fumé dials and the Concept watch series, Meylan immediately accepted on the condition that he could reinterpret one of MB&F’s horological machines… Based on this two-way hybridization process, H. Moser & Cie. started to work on the Flying Tourbillon. 

To create the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon, H. Moser & Cie. borrowed MB&F’s three-dimensional movement concept. Protected by an impressive sapphire dome, a one-minute flying tourbillon rises above a fumé dial through an opening at 12 o’clock. And what a mesmerizing tourbillon… Pure ‘watch-geekgasm’. Drawing on the expertise of its sister company Precision Engineering AG, Moser has equipped its tourbillon with a cylindrical hairspring, the same as used on the MB&F LM Thunderdome. 

A spectacular technical solution, such hairsprings allow the spring to breathe evenly and improve isochronism. But these are more complex to manufacture and require more space… Another nod to MB&F, the dial that displays the time is tilted 40 degrees, paired with a conical gear train in pure MB&F fashion. The dial is fashioned out of transparent sapphire to provide an unimpeded view of the signature Moser dial. 

The eye-catching animated mechanical architecture is driven by the self-winding HMC-810. Based on the HMC 802 (that itself uses parts from the caliber HMC 200), this 32mm calibre runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and has an autonomy of 72 hours when fully wound. The automatic winding is bi-directional. It is beautifully finished, with bevelled bridges, screwed gold chatons and Moser stripes, and the gold skeletonized rotor is engraved with the H. Moser & Cie hallmark.

The case of the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is made of stainless steel. It is 42mm in diameter and comes with the traditional Endeavour features, such as the distinctive lugs with their fluid concave profile. The fluted and Moser-signed crown is positioned at 9 o’clock. The massive sapphire dome is typical of MB&F’s production but perfectly fits within Moser’s DNA too.

The H. Moser & Cie. x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon is available in five different gradient dial versions: Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue dials. Each version is a limited edition of 15 pieces. This number is a nod to the 15th anniversary of MB&F and to the 15th anniversary of the relaunch of H. Moser & Cie. Price is set at CHF CHF 79,000.

For more information, please visit www.h-moser.com.

Technical specifications – H. Moser & Cie x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon

Case: 42mm diameter x 19.5mm height (crystal included) – stainless steel case, polished – domed sapphire crystal – sapphire caseback – water resistant to 30m / 3 ATM

Dial: sunray-brushed gradient dial available in Funky Blue, Cosmic Green, Burgundy, Off-White or Ice Blue – time read on a sub-dial in sapphire with luminous leaf hands

Movement: calibre HMC 810, in-house – automatic �� 32mm x 5.5mm – 29 jewels – 21,600 vibrations/hour – 72h power reserve – hours and minutes indication, one-minute flying tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring

Strap: hand-stitched alligator leather strap with folding buckle

Availability: 5 limited editions of 15 pieces

References: 1810-1200 Funky Blue, 1810-1201 Burgundy, 1810-1202 Cosmic Green, 1810-1203 Off-White,1810-1205 Ice Blue

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