#Countersunk Concrete Screws

[pipingprojectmiddleeast]

Types of Fasteners and Their Different Applications - Piping Projects.in

Fasteners are used in various applications, from ordinary home maintenance jobs to skyscraper construction. Whether you're a professional contractor, engineer, or do-it-yourselfer, knowing the many types of fasteners and their applications is critical for your next project. We'll look at the many screws, nuts & bolts, washers, rivets, and nails available so you can choose the best one for your project.

PipingProjects.in is a top Fasteners Manufacturers in India. Our fasteners are made of high-quality materials and may be used in various industrial applications. Our fasteners are famous for their exceptional corrosion resistance, aesthetics, and cost-effectiveness. We provide different grades of fasteners to meet different production requirements.

What Are Fasteners?

A fastener is a temporary or permanent mechanical device that firmly links or attaches two or more surfaces. Temporary fasteners are intended to be withdrawn without injuring the two or more attached materials. 

Examples of temporary fasteners include nuts & bolts, screws, and washers. On the other hand, permanent fasteners are intended to form a strong and long-lasting link. Removing these sorts of fasteners might cause significant harm to the linked surfaces. Examples of permanent fasteners are weld nuts and rivets.

Fasteners, unlike glue, may hold together materials consisting of metal, plastic, wood, and concrete. They keep together things that can withstand high degrees of tension. 

Different Types Of Fasteners And Their Uses

Fasteners are broadly classed into two types: permanent fasteners and non-permanent fasteners. As the names suggest, a permanent fastener creates a permanent joint, while the latter creates a temporary joint. The adaptability of numerous types of bolt heads keeps them in great demand. Mechanical fasteners are commercially available in a variety of sizes and shapes. They are classified into many sorts, each with its own classifications. Some of the most popular types of fasteners are listed below:

Screws Manufacturers in India: Screw fasteners are the most popular form of fastener. They are highly adaptable and durable. These socket screws must repair degraded internal threads across their whole length, and their heads come in a variety of designs. Screws require internal threads to keep items together. They form male threads in the item into which they are placed. This minimizes the necessity for pre-tapping. Also, visit top screw manufacturers in Chennai.

Washer Manufacturers in India: Washers are fasteners widely utilized in several sectors. They are often used under joints, nuts, and axle bearings to minimize friction and prevent component loosening caused by vibration. Washers also serve to separate different components and prevent any leaks that may occur. The form of the various varieties of washers varies depending on their use; nonetheless, they all serve the same function: to connect two surfaces with a single fastening.

Bolts Manufacturers in India: A partly threaded fastener that binds two components together, commonly known as threaded bolts. Nuts and bolts are frequently employed as fasteners to join distinct elements. The bolt is inserted to connect the pieces and fastened with a nut at the end. Carriage bolts have a domed or countersunk head with a square component behind it to hold the bolt in place, whereas flange bolts include an extra circular flange beneath the head to distribute weights equally.

Stainless Steel Fasteners Manufacturer in India: Stainless steel is an alloy that combines low-carbon steel with chromium. Both of these essential pieces provide various qualities to the fasteners. The chromium offers excellent corrosion resistance, whereas the low-carbon steel composition gives minimal strength. Some regularly used stainless steel grades are 18-8 Stainless, Stainless Steel 410, and Stainless Steel 316. We are the leading SS 304 fasteners manufacturers in India.

Carbon Steel Fasteners Manufacturer in India: Carbon steel fasteners are essential in various sectors due to their strength, durability, and cost efficiency. These fasteners, often made of iron and carbon, encompass a wide range of bolts, screws, nuts, and other connecting parts. As a Carbon Steel Fastener Supplier in India, we can make it a popular option for fasteners in the construction, automotive, industrial, and infrastructure industries.

Application & Uses of Fasteners:

Fasteners have many applications, including building, engineering, manufacturing, and fabrication.

Fasteners Used in Oil & Gas

Fasteners Used in Power Plant

Fasteners Used in Machine

Fasteners Used in Petrochemical

Fasteners Used in Medical

Fasteners Used in Agricultural

Fasteners Used in Paper & Pulp

Fasteners Used in Ship Building

Cities we supply Fasteners. 

Fasteners Manufacturers in Chennai

Fasteners Manufacturers in Ludhiana

Fasteners Manufacturers in Vadodara

Fastener Manufacturer in Bangalore

Fastener Manufacturer in Ahmedabad

Fastener Manufacturer in Mumbai

Fastener Manufacturer in Ahmednagar

Fastener Manufacturer in Pune

Conclusion

As a leading Fasteners Supplier in India, we provide a large selection of bolts in various grades and materials, a dependable and superior option if you're searching for a fastener supplier in India. We take great satisfaction in offering our clients the best items available. Our bolt fasteners all meet International Quality Standards (IQS), so you can be sure you're always getting the best goods. In India, we are a renowned supplier of fasteners as well.

Product Source: Fasteners Manufacturers 

Also visit : fasteners weight chart in india.

[ananka-fasteners]

Ananka

Q1) Are there hex bolts specifically designed for masonry applications?

Ans) Certainly, hex bolts designed specifically for masonry applications are commonly referred to as "anchor bolts" or "masonry anchor bolts." These bolts are utilized to affix items to surfaces like concrete, brick, stone, or other masonry materials. The key disparity between regular hex bolts and masonry anchor bolts lies in their structural configuration and how they interact with the masonry substance.

Masonry anchor bolts generally encompass several attributes that render them suitable for masonry use:

1. Thread Design: The threading on masonry anchor bolts is often crafted to enhance grip and engagement with masonry materials. Frequently, they exhibit a coarser thread pattern, which aids in biting into the relatively softer masonry base.

2. Material and Coating: Masonry anchor bolts are frequently forged from materials that provide enhanced corrosion resistance, such as stainless steel or galvanized steel. This is pivotal due to the exposure of these bolts to moisture in masonry contexts, which can lead to rust over time. In some cases, coatings like zinc or other forms of corrosion-resistant treatments may also be applied.

3. Head Design: Although the head design of masonry anchor bolts can vary, they often feature a configuration that ensures a flush or slightly countersunk fit with the masonry surface. This design serves to prevent tripping hazards and facilitates a tidy and secure installation.

4. Installation Techniques: The installation of masonry anchor bolts might necessitate distinct methods when compared to regular hex bolts. Depending on their specific design, they could call for pre-drilled holes, specialized anchors, or other hardware to guarantee a steadfast attachment to the masonry.

5. Load-Bearing Capacity: Masonry anchor bolts are meticulously engineered to endure the specific loads and forces inherent to masonry applications. They are frequently rated based on their capacity to carry loads, considering factors like the type of masonry material and the dimensions and design of the bolt.

When deploying masonry anchor bolts, it's imperative to adhere closely to the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines for installation. Incorrect installation can imperil the integrity of the attachment, potentially leading to safety hazards.

It's noteworthy that a diverse array of masonry anchor bolt types exists in the market, including wedge anchors, sleeve anchors, and concrete screws, each tailored to distinct designs and use cases. To ensure the optimal choice of masonry anchor bolt for your specific application, it's advisable to consult professionals or experts in the field.

Elevator Bolt Manufacturers in Mumbai

Q2) How do you remove a hex nut that has become rusted or frozen?

Ans) Eliminating a rusted or frozen hex nut can present challenges, yet there are various strategies you can employ. Bear in mind that the effectiveness of these approaches may vary depending on the extent of the rust and your access to the nut. Here are some commonly employed techniques:

1. Penetrating Oil: Apply penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or PB Blaster, onto the rusted threads of the hex nut. Allow the oil to seep in for several hours or overnight. The oil aids in corroding the rust and lubricating the threads, facilitating easier nut turning.

2. Heat: Employ a heat source, like a propane torch, to warm the vicinity around the rusted nut. The expansion and contraction resulting from the heat can help break the rust's grip. Be careful not to overheat or damage adjacent components.

3. Vice Grips or Locking Pliers: If there's enough space, employ vice grips or locking pliers to grasp the hex nut's edges. Apply steady, consistent pressure while turning counterclockwise. This technique can dislodge the rust's hold, initiating nut rotation.

4. Impact Wrench: An impact wrench delivers forceful bursts of rotational energy, aiding in dislodging a stubborn hex nut. However, its applicability might be limited by confined spaces or if the nut is situated delicately.

5. Nut Splitter: A nut splitter is a specialized tool engineered to split open recalcitrant nuts. It achieves this by making cuts into the nut, without harming the underlying bolt or stud.

6. Drilling: In extreme cases, you may have to cautiously drill into the center of the rusted nut. This action weakens the nut's structure, facilitating its removal. Nonetheless, drilling poses a risk of damaging the underlying thread or bolt and should be a last resort.

7. Hammer and Chisel: Utilize a chisel and hammer to carefully craft a small notch on the nut's edge. This affords enhanced grip for wrenches or pliers, enabling nut rotation.

Prior to attempting any of these methods, it's imperative to exercise caution to avert additional harm to adjacent components. If you're dealing with a valuable or vital part or feel uncertain about your capabilities, seeking guidance from a seasoned professional mechanic or technician accustomed to such scenarios is prudent.

Hex Nut Suppliers

Q3) What is the impact of using plain washers in reducing friction between surfaces?

Ans) Plain washers are often used in mechanical applications to distribute the load, prevent surface damage, and reduce friction between two surfaces. While their primary function is not to reduce friction, they can have a minor impact on friction due to their ability to provide a smooth interface between the nut, bolt head, or other fastener and the material being fastened. However, this effect is generally limited.

Here's how plain washers can impact friction reduction:

1. Surface Smoothness: Plain washers have a smooth surface that can help reduce the direct contact between the fastener and the material being fastened. This can result in slightly less friction compared to direct contact between rougher surfaces.

2. Pressure Distribution: Washers distribute the load over a larger surface area. When a nut or bolt head is tightened down, the washer spreads the force across a wider region. This can help minimize localized pressure points that might lead to increased friction.

3. Surface Protection: Washers can prevent damage to the material being fastened. If the fastener's contact point is rough or uneven, it could cause wear or damage to the material. A washer provides a protective barrier that can reduce friction caused by abrasion or surface imperfections.

It's important to note that while washers can have a slight impact on reducing friction, the primary purpose of using washers is not friction reduction but rather load distribution and surface protection. If your main concern is reducing friction, you might consider using lubricants or anti-friction coatings specifically designed for that purpose.

Additionally, the impact of using plain washers to reduce friction is relatively minor compared to other methods such as using lubricants, choosing materials with lower coefficients of friction, or ensuring proper surface finish and alignment. If friction reduction is a critical factor in your application, it's advisable to explore other solutions beyond the use of plain washers alone.

High Tensile Fasteners

Q4) How do you remove a stud bolt that has become rusted or frozen?

Ans) Removing a rusted or frozen stud bolt can be challenging, but there are several methods you can try. The approach you choose will depend on the severity of the rust and the access you have to the stud. Here are some common methods:

1. Penetrating Oil: Apply a penetrating oil, such as WD-40 or PB Blaster, to the rusted threads of the stud. Allow the oil to penetrate for several hours or overnight. The oil helps break down the rust and lubricate the threads, making it easier to turn the stud.

2. Heat: Use a propane torch or similar heat source to heat the area around the rusted stud. The expansion and contraction caused by the heat can help break the rust's grip. Be careful not to overheat the surrounding components, and always follow safety precautions.

3. Double Nuts: If there's enough exposed thread, you can use two nuts tightened against each other on the stud. Hold one nut with a wrench and use another wrench to turn the second nut counterclockwise. The pressure between the two nuts can help break the rust's hold on the threads, allowing you to turn the stud.

4. Vice Grips or Locking Pliers: If there's enough exposed length of the stud, you can grip onto it with vice grips or locking pliers. Apply steady and even pressure while turning counterclockwise. This method can help you break the rust's hold and start turning the stud.

5. Impact Tools: Impact tools like impact wrenches or pneumatic hammers can provide bursts of rotational force that can help loosen a stubborn stud. Be cautious when using these tools, as they can sometimes cause damage if not used properly.

6. Cutting: In extreme cases where the stud is beyond saving, you might need to cut it off. You can use a hacksaw, reciprocating saw, or angle grinder with a cutting wheel to carefully cut the stud. This should be done with care to avoid damaging the underlying material.

7. Heat and Cooling: The "heat and cool" method involves heating the stud with a torch and then quickly cooling it with cold water. The rapid contraction caused by the cooling can help break the rust's grip.

8. Nut Splitter: A nut splitter is a specialized tool designed to crack open nuts or studs that are too difficult to remove conventionally. It works by cutting into the stud without damaging the underlying material.

Before attempting any of these methods, it's crucial to exercise caution to avoid damaging surrounding components or causing injury. If you're not comfortable or experienced with these techniques, consider seeking help from a professional mechanic or technician.

Carbon Steel Fasteners

[ankitmccoymart]

Find the largest collection of Countersunk Self tapping screws at McCoy Mart. Choose from our range of countersunk set screw available for all types of countersunk screws at best price online. ✓ Best Offers ✓ 7 Days Easy Returns ✓Cash on Delivery Available.

[concretefilm1]

How Concrete Fasteners Work

The process used when fastening to concrete has basically remained unchanged over the years. Although there are epoxy/chemical type anchors in use today, the majority of anchors rely on the same principles that were developed many years ago.

Fastening to concrete is unique compared to other fastening applications, such as fastening two pieces of metal together by using a screw or a bolt and nut. Concrete anchors of any type are much more difficult to use and install correctly.

The concept of fastening something to a solid base material is completely different than for almost any other type of fastening application. Concrete is the most widely used base material in the world for the last 2,000 years and probably will remain so for the next 2,000 years due to its simplicity, strength, versatility and the abundance of the ingredients used to make it.

The Process With Which We Fasten To Concrete Is Simple:

1. Make a hole in the concrete

2. Put something in the hole to take up the space created

3. Expand the material in the hole via a nail, screw or setting tool

We are making a hole with a certain amount of volume and then inserting more material into the hole. This increased volume of material that pushes against the interior wall of the hole will create friction. This friction is how most mechanical concrete anchors obtain their holding values.

All the mechanical type concrete anchors work on the same basic principle. Drill a specific size hole, insert the anchor, and expand the anchor larger than the hole in order to make it difficult for the anchor to be pulled out of the hole. Concrete anchors are designed to go into a hole in concrete and not come out.

Wedge Anchors

Wedge anchors are two-piece concrete anchors that are assembled into one unit. The steel rod made from carbon steel or stainless steel is threaded on one end and the opposite end starts out slightly smaller in diameter and tapers out to the full diameter of the rod. A clip is then permanently attached to this end of the rod. The wedge anchor is inserted into a hole in concrete until the threads are below the surface of the concrete. The nut and washer are placed on the threads and tighten until finger tight. Using a wrench, the nut is then turned, which pulls the anchor up to wedge the clip between the stud and the wall of the concrete. When drilling a hole in concrete for a wedge anchor, the hole size is equal to the anchor diameter size.

Sleeve Anchors

The sleeve anchor is made up from four different parts. The stud, which is threaded and flared or cone shaped at one end, the expander sleeve, and the nut and washer. The expander sleeve is assembled over the stud with the nut and washer threaded on to the opposite side of the cone shaped end. The sleeve anchor is inserted into a hole drilled in the base material either concrete, brick or block. The nut is turned, which pulls the stud up through the expander sleeve, expanding it up against the inside wall of the base material. The hole size to be drilled into the concrete for a sleeve anchor is equal to the diameter of the anchor being used.

Concrete Screws

Concrete screws are different than all the rest of the anchors because they do not use expansion to derive their holding values. Concrete screws are a special threaded screw, with hardened notched threads and high-low threads. The notches and the high low threads help to eliminate concrete shavings from the hole as the screw taps threads into the base material. The hole size for concrete screws is smaller than the diameter of the screw. A 3/16" screw requires a 5/32" hole and a 1/4" screw requires a 3/16" hole. The concrete screw is inserted into the hole and turned either by hand or by a rotation drill until the concrete screw is tight against the fixture being fastened.

Drop-In Anchor

Drop-in anchors are a female anchor designed to be placed in concrete and then to have a threaded rod or bolt inserted. The drop-in anchor is made-up of two parts: the expansion shield, made from zinc plated carbon or stainless steel, and a case hardened expander plug that is cone-shaped and made from zinc plated carbon or stainless steel. One end of the shield is tapered, with four cut slots that run a portion of its length. The surface of this end may be smooth or knurled while the other end will be smooth. The expander plug is inside the anchor, placed at the end of the anchor that has the four slots, and the other end is threaded. The anchor is set by placing the anchor into a hole in concrete and by setting the expander plug using a setting tool. Each diameter of drop-in anchor has a specific setting tool. This setting tool is a steel rod with one end being necked down. The necked down portion of the setting tool is inserted into the drop-in anchor and pounded with a hammer until the lip of the anchor meets the lip of the setting tool. This action pushes the expander plug down into the drop-in anchor expanding the anchor where the four cuts are. As with all female type anchors, the size of the designated size of the anchor refers to the bolt size that goes into the anchor; the hole size is larger than the anchor size.

Machine Screw Anchor

Machine screw anchors are a female type anchor into which a threaded item is placed. Machine screw anchors are made up of two parts, the internally threaded cone and the sleeve. The sleeve is place over the threaded cone and inserted into a hole drilled in to the base material of concrete, brick or block, threaded cone first. The machine screw anchor is set by the sleeve being pushed over the expander sleeve wedging the sleeve between the expander sleeve and the inside wall of the concrete. The anchor is properly set when the lip of the setting tool meets the lip of the anchor. Each diameter machine screw anchor has a specific setting tool that is designated by the diameter of anchor being used. The machine screw anchor size is designated by the inside diameter of the bolt to be used with the anchor, the hole size required is larger than the anchor size being used.

Strike Anchor

Strike anchors are for use in solid concrete and are considered an impact expansion type of anchor. The strike anchor is made up of four parts: the body that is made from carbon steel with an interior hole the entire length of the anchor, a drive pin that is hardened, and a nut and washer plated in a yellow zinc. The body of the anchor is threaded on one end with the other end having four slots cut a portion of the length - the surface of this part of the body has ribs around the circumference. The length of the drive pin that is hardened must equal the length of the anchor and is placed inside the interior hole of the anchor body. The anchor is set by placing anchor into a predrilled hole in concrete with the nut and washer attached. The anchor must be tapped lightly until the nut and washer are against the base material or fixture being fastened down. The hardened pin is then driven into the anchor until the head of the pin meets the end of the anchor body, which will provide for the proper setting. As the pin is pushed into the anchor, the anchor is expanded. The hole that is needed to be drilled for the strike anchor is the same diameter as the diameter of the anchor being used.

Hammer Drive Anchor

Hammer drive anchors are made from a Zamac material that is strong and malleable. Hammer drive anchors are a light duty concrete anchor, made up of two parts the body and the zinc plated steel pin. The body of the hammer drive anchor is split from the bottom up for most of its length, with a mushroom head. The anchor body is hollowed out that runs through the head thickness and down into the shank for the entire length. The steel pin is what expands the anchor; it is made of high carbon steel, with a small head on one end and with the other end pointed. The anchor is set by hammering the steel pin into the anchor body. As the nail pushes through the anchor body, the split part expands to push against the interior wall of the hole in the base material. The hole diameter to be drilled for the hammer drive anchor is equal to the diameter of the anchor being used.

Split Drive Anchor

Split drive anchors are made from carbon steel that is heat-treated through, hardened and zinc plated. Split drive anchors are one piece with either a flat countersunk head or a round head. At the base of the anchor, opposite sides of the head the shank is sheared into two pre-expanded parts. These two halves are compressed when the anchor is driven into a predrilled hole in concrete. These two halves continually try to get back to their original shape, pushing against the inside wall of the hole. The split drive anchor requires a hole size that is equal to the diameter of the anchor being used.

Lag Shield

Lag shields are made up of two parts that are assembled into one piece. The lag shield is made from a Zamac material, which is a zinc alloy that is rust-resistant. The inside of the lag shield has internal threads designed to accept lag screw threads and its threads are tapered and run the length of the anchor. The outside body of the anchor has ribs that run the majority of the length of the anchor. The lag shield is set by inserting a lag screw into the anchor. Turning the lag screw into the tapered threads expands the two halves of the anchor and pushes against the base material. Lag shield anchors are designated by the diameter of the bolt that goes into the anchor. It is important that the hole size to be drilled is larger than the designated anchor size.

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Strip Seal Expansion Joints Effectively Seal Bridges Expansion Joints

Strip Seal Expansion Joints Accommodate Up to 80 mm Movement Strip seal expansion joints for movements of up to 80 mm are expansion joints made of a single set of structural steel, rubber sealing strips and dowel rods. According to the cross-sectional shape, they are divided into 5 types, including GQF-C, GQF-F, GQF-E, GQF-Z and GQF-RG. Being fully anchored within the depth of the road surfacing, strip seal expansion joints can prevent roads from cracking caused by climatic change.

https://www.bridgejoints.com/longitudinal-movements-80/strip-seal-joints.html

In order to meet the requirements of the bridge deformation, strip seal expansion joints are usually set at each end of the bridge, between ends of the beam and abutment or on the hinge joints of the bridge. They are applied with rubber noise weaken board which can help to increase movement and reduce noise from over-passing traffic by up to 80%.

Structure

Strip seal expansion joints are consisted of countersunk screws, edge beam, rubber strip seal and dowel rods.

This is a diagram of the structure of GQF-F type single gap joint. SGJ-1: All parts of the strip seal expansion joints working together can make an excellent system. Specification

Rubber material: chloroprene rubber (CR) or natural rubber (NR). Head Type: Straight or bending. Cross-sectional shape: GQF-C, GQF-F, GQF-E, GQF-Z and GQF-RG. This is the strip seal expansion joints with straight head. SGJ-2: Strip seal expansion joints with straight headThis is the strip seal expansion joints with up head. SGJ-3: Strip seal expansion joints with up head The cross-sectional shape of single gap joint is C type. SGJ-4: GQF-C strip seal expansion jointsThe cross-sectional shape of single gap joint is F type. SGJ-5: GQF-F strip seal expansion jointsThe cross-sectional shape of single gap joint is E type. SGJ-6: GQF-E strip seal expansion joints This is a Z shaped strip seal expansion joints. SGJ-7: GQF-G strip seal expansion jointsThis is a RG shaped strip seal expansion joints. SGJ-8: GQF-RG strip seal expansion joints Table 1: Specification of Strip Seal Expansion Joints Item Displacement (mm) Expansion resistance (kN/m) Horizontal displacement Vertical displacement Horizontal shear displacement Compression Longitudinal shearing GQF-C30 30 ± 12 ± 20 ≤ 4 ≤ 6 GQF-C50 50 GQF-C60 60 GQF-C80 80 GQF-F30 30 ± 12 ± 20 ≤ 4 ≤ 6 GQF-F50 50 GQF-F60 60 GQF-F80 80 GQF-E80 80 ± 12 ± 20 ≤ 4 ≤ 6 GQF-Z80 80 ± 12 ± 20 ≤ 4 ≤ 6 Note: Strip seal expansion joints in other dimensions can be manufactured upon your request.

Features

Strip seal expansion joints are retractable and solid on both directions parallel and perpendicular to the bridge axis to ensure vehicles runs smoothly and no noise. Strip seal expansion joints can prevent rainwater permeation and dirt clogging. Strip seal expansion joints are simple and easy to install, check, maintain and clean. High strength, can withstand the weight of vehicles and pedestrians. This is a single gap joint. SGJ-9: Strip seal expansion joints are retractable through the middle slotThis is a single gap joint with simple structure. SGJ-10: Simple single gap joint is easy to install Application

Strip seal expansion joints are suitable for kinds of bridges which are curved, slope, skew and wide. They can also perform well on both new-built bridges and bridges have been built, both asphalt and concrete bridge surface. It also can be used in the highway. Having a limited depth of the structure and being able to be installed quickly, strip seal expansion joints are extremely well-positioned to replace the damaged one in a restoration project. A worker is installing the strip seal expansion joints in the bridge. SGJ-11: Strip seal expansion joints installed in end of bridgeThe side of bridge is being built with strip seal expansion joints. SGJ-12: Strip seal expansion joints used in end of expressway This is a bridge has been completed with strip seal expansion joints. SGJ-13: Strip seal expansion joints are used in connection of bridgesMany cars are passing through on highway that is constructed with strip seal expansion joints. SGJ-14: Strip seal expansion joints are installed in highway

[mbefasteners]

Top 5 Industrial Fastener Mistakes

For numerous individuals, using industrial fasteners is easy. They simply choose the type of fastener they need and complete their design efficiently. Still, for some, it's a little bit more difficult. However, consider the following, If you're having trouble using your fasteners rightly.

Mistakes To Avoid With Industrial Fasteners

Those who don't know a lot about nails, socket screws, bolts, and nuts frequently find themselves making some mistakes. While these errors may be simple and fluently avoided, once they're made, they can fully ruin a design. Then are many of the most common miscalculations you should try to avoid.

Using Wrong Kind of Fasteners - Fasteners come in all shapes and sizes. While it may feel to some that a nail is just a nail and a screw is just a screw, there are several different kinds of these fasteners and no two are likewise. Consider for a moment that you have decided to replace the shingles on your roof and you snare concrete nails. This type of nail isn't going to work well because it's designed specifically for going into concrete or masonry. For this type of design, you need roofing nails. Make sure you're using the correct kind of fasteners before you begin your design.

Not Using Enough Fasteners- Let's say for a moment that you decided to fix the kitchen table, but you lost many screws along the way. However, the table isn't going to stand up to the weight of your coming mess; it may not stand up at each If you fail to replace these screws. Do not ever try to scrimp on the number of fasteners you use. The results can be disastrous.

Placing The Fasteners In The Wrong Position - When you're installing your deck, the position of those screws or nails is extremely important. This position will determine whether you can walk across your deck or simply fall through to the ground. Make sure to measure and mark where every single fastener needs to be placed.

Spacing The Fasteners Too Far Apart- The space between your fasteners is essential. However, you'll need to attach the drywall to the wall superstuds, If you're working on the walls of your home. However, but none at the bottom, what's going to keep the drywall in your home secure? Use proper distance with your fasteners to ensure your design turns out great If you place drywall countersunk screws at the top of your wall.

Using Fasteners That are Too Short or Too Long-When you're forging nails into your roof to secure your shingles, there's a good chance you do not want to be doing the same thing this coming month. However, the heat and humidity can get the nails to pop up and loosen If you use nails that are too short. On the negative, if you have decided to eventually fix the leg on your coffee table, using nails that are too long may affect the nail sticking out and scraping your leg every time you walk by.

For the inexperienced, industrial fasteners can be a tricky subject. Still, with these tips, you'll have no problem making sure your design is done right the first time.

Original Source: Machine Screws UK

[echonbuildingproduct]

Tips on how to install PVC column wrap without any trouble?

Industrial and residential buildings rely on columns for structural support, but they can also be a visual annoyance, lowering the exterior appeal. PVC column wraps come to the rescue in this situation.

PVC column wraps will entirely transform the position of external columns in your home, transforming them from a visual annoyance to an attractive feature.

PVC column wraps are a cost-effective, simple, and innovative way to cover pillars/posts virtually maintenance-free and give long-term security. They're simple to maintain and can be installed over an existing wooden or aluminum post with standard carpentry tools. PVC column wraps are light but durable, fire-resistant, weather-resistant, and even paintable.

PVC column wraps will dramatically improve the appearance of your house, but they must be mounted correctly.

But you must know about the installation process. However, here are a few essential tips that people often miss out on!

Tip 1: Make the Rough Spots Smooth

Wrap 320-grit sandpaper around a shim or ruler and run it through the groove to loosen it up if the lock miter joint is too tight. If possible, use a sanding block and 320 grit sandpaper to smooth out any rough patches outside the lock miter joint.

Tip 2: Secure the Wrap to the Post

To secure the PVC column wrap to the column, pierce through the furring strips of the structural post with stainless steel nails.

Tip 3: At the top and bottom of the column, position the cap and base.

Use flat-headed fasteners to secure the column's base to the board. The fasteners that you use should be long enough to penetrate the concrete or wooden foundation about a centimeter deep. The cap can now be screwed onto the top of the column shaft and sealed with adhesives. Fill the tiny gap between the lid, the rim, and the column shaft with PVC-compatible sealant.

Tip 4: Prepare the panels by pre-drilling and assembling them.

Both edges of the panels should be pre-drilled and countersunk. Make sure the seams aren't visible. Assemble the panels in a way that they are perfectly matched.

In the case of square column wraps, join the three panels together. You can skip this step if you're wrapping a circular column.

Tip 5: Think about the Theme and Design of Your Home

When choosing your PVC wraps, think about the theme and design of your home. Traditional-style capitals and bases complement Colonial and Cape Cod homes with their subtly ornate decoration. Craftsman-style capitals and bases have clean lines that complement the handcrafted elegance of Craftsman-style homes. The simplicity of Builder-style capitals and bases complements Modern-style homes perfectly.

Echon's PVC column wraps are your best choice if you're looking for elegant and high-quality PVC column wraps. Their column wraps come in various beautiful designs that give your columns a sleek, luxurious finish.

Did you find this blog informative? Then read a detailed version of  this on our blog: how to install PVC column wrap. This detailed blog takes on how to install PVC column wrap you through all the steps one by one and guides you through the process of PVC column wrap installation ! Share this blog with your friends and peers if you found it helpful. Thanks!

[syringemachineye]

One end of the screw is externally threaded and shiny

The outer layer of toasted bread is an iron sheet (some are seamless steel tubes). The metal material was pulled up at the larger place under the anchor screw, and all the holes were pulled up. Expansion screws: Expansion screws are flat after use due to small holes and strong tensile strength. 2. In the iron cylinder, the iron cylinder will expand, so it can be firmly fixed to the wall.1. If they do not need to be removed at will, they have obvious advantages in keeping the wall level and are widely used in various indoor decoration places. The upper part did not move. 3.

Expansion screws with different structures: Expansion screws are composed of countersunk bolts, expansion tubes, flat washers, elastic yellow washers and hexagon nuts. The nut pulls the screw outwards to pull the finish. Expansion screw: Use the vertical surface tilt to promote the frictional tension caused by swelling. If half of the iron sheet cylinder can dry the wound, plug them into the hole in the wall, and then lock the nut. Expansion screw:

It is composed of the extruder screw and extrusion tube. One end of the screw is externally threaded and shiny. At this time, the expansion screw could not be pulled out. Different levels of functional expansion screws: the basic principle of expansion screws is to use a wrench to tighten the nut tube on the expansion screw before driving the expansion screw into the pavement or the inner hole of the wall,

the anchor Thermal Bonding Machine bolt is pulled outward, and the metal material is sheathed on the outside. The end of the extruder screw is a cone, and the inner diameter of the cone exceeds the nominal diameter of the expansion tube. Expansion screws for different purposes: to fix pipe support/hoisting/fixing brackets or mechanical equipment on walls, concrete floors, and pillars. 2.

[nicrmofasteners]

What are the Different Types of Bolts?

There are a plethora of bolts options available to choose from. In this blog, we have tried to list easy-to-read types of bolts based on shape, head, usage, and material ensuring you use the right type of fasteners for your project. 

What is a Bolt?

A Bolt is a form of a threaded fastener with an external male thread requiring a matching pre-formed female thread such as a nut. It is a type of fastener made from metal comprising of a head at one end, a chamfer at the other end, and a shaft characterized by an external helical ridge known as a thread. They are typically used to hold materials or objects together, or to position objects. 

Bolts are a form of mechanical fastener that is designed with external threads and paired with a nut which is intended to be inserted through holes and use to join parts together using tightening torque. Unlike screws, which are also externally threaded fasteners, bolts require a nut to be able to function properly and require a drilled hole into which the bolt may be inserted.

Types of Bolts

There are many different varieties of the bolt which can be selected based on the particular requirement or the materials involved. Most of the common types are listed below:

Anchor Bolt: These bolts are usually embedded in concrete or masonry for structural applications. The Anchor bolt can be preset while the concrete structure is being cast or may be attached after the concrete has been cured by the use of a drilling operation. 

Carriage Bolt: It is a form of a self-locking bolt with a flush-mount domed head. They are usually used to fasten metal to timber. Since it has a squared undercut to the head, this helps to hold the bolt in place once it has been tightened without a need to restrain the head with a wrench.

Blind Bolts: It is generally used as a fastener where the application does not allow access to both sides of the bolt to tighten or torque the bolt. 

Elevator Bolt: It has a flat, plain, or countersunk head that helps to hold the bolt in place when tightened. These are commonly used in conveyor systems.

Shoulder Bolt: They are also called Stripper Bolt. They are useful for functioning as a shaft or axle that can contain a rotating part, such as a bearing or a bushing.

Flange Bolt:  It is also known as the Frame Bolt. They distribute the bearing load using a washer on the undercut of the head. 

Hanger Bolt: It comprises two threaded ends instead of 1 head bolt. 

Hexagon Bolt: It is also known as Tap Bolt and Hex Bolt. They are the most common type of 1 head bolt, available in standard dimensional inch and metric sizes. They may be fully threaded or may feature an unthreaded shoulder. It comprises a head that has six sides with threading that begins part-way down the shank. In tap bolt, the shank is threaded the whole length.

Huck Bolt: In this, the pin and collar are swaged together using a specialist tool. It is usually used for a permanent fixing.

Lag Bolt: It is also known as Lag Screws. It is a heavy-duty fastener that creates its mating thread in timber and other soft materials when tightened. 

Machine Bolt: It has a short shank. Mostly used for assembling metal components through predrilled holes. They are similar to hex bolts, except that they do not have a chamfered point and are not designed with a washer-bearing surface on the underside of the head. They are typically available in both hex head and square head options.

Plow Bolt: It is commonly used in construction tools and other devices due to its durability and flat countersunk head with a square shank neck.

Round Head Bolt: They do not have the square taper beneath the domed head of the bolt and are typically used to join wood. 

Sex Bolt: the shank of the bolt is covered with a mating female component. They are used for fastening components that cannot be exposed to abrasive threads.

Square Head Bolt:  It is similar to a machine bolt, the only difference being it has short shanks along with a four-sided bolt head. 

Stud Bolt: They are also called Double End Bolts. It has a threaded portion on each end of the bolt, unlike the traditional 1 head bolt. It has hexagon nuts on both ends. The components are to be fastened between the two bolts.

Eye Bolt: It has a fully or partially closed-looped end, unlike the traditional 1 head bolt. In some cases, the loop in the bolt can be used to lift the object. Commonly the eye bolt is used to route wire, cables, or other similar elements cleanly to avoid accidental interference. Eye bolts can offer additional capabilities depending on the material composition and finish – some are suitable for low-temperature operations while others are designed to not reflect light and therefore will blend into the background.

Timber Bolt: They are usually used in the fastening of large timber components. 

T-head Bolt: Also known as T-slot Bolts. It has a T-shaped head that can be gripped by a wench and can fit into a slot with ease. T-bolts are used in applications such as securing fuel tanks in a place where having access to both sides of the fastener may not be possible in all cases. 

Toggle Bolt: It has an expanding wing-like nut that helps it to mount objects to walls.

Socket Head Bolt:  They are also known as Socket Head Screws. It has a recessed head to tighten using an Allen wrench or hex socket tool. The head style of these bolts varies from a cylindrical profile to a flat-head countersunk style to a domed button head design. The deeper recessed Allen socket head affords the ability to increase the torque applied to these fasteners while minimizing the risk of stripping or damaging the head.

U Bolt: They are bent in a “U” Shape and partially threaded on both ends. They are used in a range of applications from supporting pipe to automotive use on drive shafts and exhaust systems. Some designs include rubber coating to preclude wear from the movement of metal against metal. Other designs of U-bolt add thick rubber gaskets to reduce the effect of vibration and to control noise. Non-metallic designs are also available for use in applications where there is a risk of the U-bolt making contact with an electrically powered conductor.

Penta-Head Bolt: They are tamper-resistant bolts. Mostly applicable to reduce the likelihood of a person armed with standard tools can loosen or remove the belt. With the head of the bolt in the shape of a pentagon, standard wrench or socket sets will be incapable of being used on these bolts.

Nicrmo is one of the leading nut bolt manufacturers having most of the varieties of the bolt. The experts at Nicrmo help to choose the right bolt for your needs. Get connected with expert nut bolt manufacturer at nicrmofasteners@gmail.com or call 9819495121.

[ananka-fasteners]

Nickel Aluminium Bronze NES 833 Part 2 - Ananka Fasteners

Ananka Group is a leading Aluminium Bronze Fasteners Manufacturer in India, producing a wide range of Aluminium Bronze Fasteners in various sizes, grades, and scales. Our Aluminium Bronze Fasteners are manufactured by national & international standards. C614 Aluminum Bronze Studs are alloyed with zinc and have higher corrosion resistance to high-velocity seawater. Ananka Group is a manufacturer of all kinds of metal products. We are in the industry for several years.

Our Aluminum Bronze Threaded Rod can be used in high wear and tear applications. We offer various sizes of studs, screws, rods, and fasteners in the aluminum bronze range. We produce the most popular grade C63000 Aluminium Bronze Bolts And Nuts which are used in seawater applications and marine applications for high shock resistance and abrasion resistance.

Specifications of Aluminum Bronze Fasteners

Aluminum Bronze Alloy Fasteners Material Specification:- C63000 Nickel Aluminum Bronze Plow Bolts, UNS C62300 Bolts

Aluminum Bronze Fasteners / Bolts Standard:- DIN, UNI, ISO, JIS, GB, IS, BS, ASME, ANSI, ASTM and all International Standards

C61400 Aluminum Bronze Fasteners/ Bolts Size:- M2, M2.5, M3, M4, M5, M6, M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, M20, M24, M30, M36 to M160

Length of C955 Aluminum Bronze Hex Cap Screw:- 3 mm to 200 mm

C614 Aluminum Bronze Bolts, Studs Threads:- METRIC, BSW, BSF, UNC, UNF or as required

C630 Nickel Aluminum Bronze Allen Cap Screw Standard:- ANSI – American National Standards Institute - ANSI B 18.2.4 2M, ANSI B 28.2.4 1M, Aluminum Bronze Alloy Stud Bolt length are defined in ASME B16.5 standard, Aluminum Bronze Hex nuts are defined in ASME B18.2.2, ASME B18.5 DIN: 931, 933, 934, 970 UTS – Unified Thread Standard: UNC, UNF, UNEF, UNS, NPT, NPTF ISO – International Organization for Standardization: ISO 4032, ISO 4033, JIS standards

Source of Raw Materials to Manufacture Cual10ni5fe4 Aluminum Bronze Socket Cap Screw:- Tata Steel, JSPL, RINL, Usha Martin, Dhamm Steel, Mukund Steel, etc.

Scope:- Manufacturer of Hot Forged C955 Nickel Aluminum Bronze Hex Cap Screws, Nut / Bolt; up to M36 / 1-1/2” Dia, up to 1100mm lg, Manufacturer of CNC Machined Aluminum Bronze Fasteners, Nut / Bolt; up to M100 / 4” Dia, up to 1500mm lg

Uns C61400 Aluminum Bronze U Bolt in Form Of:- Hex, Square, Round, Threading as per Gauge Etc.

Head Drive:- Phillips, Slotted, Phillips/Slot, Six-Lobe, etc.

Aluminum Bronze Alloy Hex Bolt Thread:- Metric Coarse

Aluminum Bronze Bolting Test Certificate:- Manufacturer Test Certificate as per EN 10204 / 3.1

C63000 Nickel Aluminum Bronze Bolts Types:- Aluminum Bronze Alloy Hex Bolts, Flange Bolts, Hex Head Bolts, Lag Bolts, Square Bolts, Eye Bolts, U Bolts, T Bolts, Countersunk Bolts, etc.

C955 Aluminum Bronze Nut Types:- Aluminum Bronze Alloy Hex Head Nut, Eye Nut, Dome Nut, Wing Nut, T Nut, Panel Nut, Lock Nut, Coupling Nut, Square Nut, Acorn Nut, etc.

Aluminum Bronze Alloy Screws Types:- Aluminum Bronze Alloy Hex Head Cap Screws, Socket Set Screws, Anchor Screws, Blind Rivet, Socket Head Screws, Concrete Screws, Shoulder Screws, Panel Screws, Threaded Screws, Machine Screws, etc.

Aluminum Bronze Washer Types:- Aluminum Bronze Alloy Machine Washers, Flat Washer, Star Washers, Sealing Washer, Lock Washer, Split Washer in India

Nickel Aluminum Bronze Alloy Fasteners Packing:- IN BULK: canton, pallet, Small Box’s / carton/pallet, or customer request

Ready Stock Available Metric Aluminum Bronze Fasteners Aluminum Bronze Alloy Bolts M16 x 65mm DIN933 Aluminum Bronze Bolts M16 x 45mm DIN933 C61400 Aluminum Bronze Hex Nut M16 C63000 Aluminum Bronze Washer M16 C614 Aluminum Bronze Bolts M16 X 60mm C959 Aluminum Bronze Bolts M16 X 55mm C62300 Aluminum Bronze Bolts M16 X 35mm C63000 Nickel Aluminum Bronze Bolts M12 X 90mm C955 Aluminum Bronze Bolts M12 X 70mm C630 Nickel Aluminum Bronze Bolts M20 x 70mm Cual10ni5fe4 Aluminum Bronze Bolts M20 x 75mm

Source:- https://anankafasteners.com/aluminium-bronze-fasteners-manufacturer-india/ Call & WhatsApp:- +91 83690 74984 Mail:- sales@anankafasteners.com Website:- https://anankafasteners.com/

[deckbuildingforgarden-blog]

Building A Wooden Terrace: 6 Important Points For Deck Building

There are a few little things that people tend to forget about home-made wooden deck building. Careful assembly is extremely important so that the new terrace lasts as long as possible. But no worry! With these six best practice more tips here you have everything under control when building a wooden deck building.

Tip 1: Buy patio wood from specialist retailers

Inexpensive deck building boards from the hardware store have exactly one advantage: They cost less. Quality and specialist advice, however, often leave a lot to be desired in hardware stores.

A specialist timber dealer is very familiar with deck building . He knows exactly which type of wood is suitable for you, helps with planning and delivers the material to your home. Overall, the specialist trade offers the better price-performance ratio .

Tip 2: Build a suitable foundation

In most cases, the wooden terrace in the garden is built on the ground. Before construction, the subsurface must be leveled and reinforced with gravel or chippings. Create a slope of about 2% away from the house so that rainwater can drain under and on the wooden deck.

Then lay paving slabs (concrete slabs) on the sub-floor. They serve as a support surface for the substructure beams and protect the wood from waterlogging. Lay out the panels at regular intervals on the prepared surface and align them with the spirit level.

Tip 3: Don't forget weed control

In front of the concrete slabs, you should lay out a weed fleece - also known as a root fleece or mulch fleece. This prevents weeds from proliferating below the wooden terrace and growing out through the floorboards. You can find out which other materials you need for the construction of your wooden terrace here .

Tip 4: Optimal constructive wood protection

Constructive wood protection begins below the substructure . Because water quickly collects on the pavement slabs, the substructure should not lie directly on it. The same applies to the substructure and boards. If wood lies on wood, moisture dries more slowly in these areas. With special spacers , you can create a ventilation gap between the panels and the timber as well as between the timber and floorboards.

Tip : If you attach your patio deck invisibly with a deck building holder, the holder already ensures the necessary distance between the substructure and the deck.

Tip 5: Distance between the substructure beams

The necessary distance between the construction timbers laid in parallel depends on the thickness of the deck building. The distance must not be too large so that the boards are kept in shape over the long term.

General recommendation for distances (from beam center to beam center):

20 - 24 mm board thickness: 40 cm

25 - 28 mm board thickness: 50 cm

Tip 6: Use suitable screws

The correct fastening system is very important for the stability of the construction. Special deck building screws meet the following necessary requirements.

Stainless steel

Countersunk lens head

Torx drive

Milling thread and friction property

[xela238238]

technology_notes_09/02/17 - The focus of this lecture was timber. The majority of my building will be under extreme tensile pressure, as well as compressional pressure, so timber will be unsuitable majoritarily in comparison to steel, however, the base of my structure will use a filigree construction, and will not be load bearing most places, allowing an oppurtunity for timber to be utilised. It will also be the one sector at ground level, again making timber key as generally speaking, it has a lighter rouch and more refined appearance than that of steel or concrete.

Specific joints will be used in the timber, most likely dove and tail joints but mortise and tenon joint would also be used. As this is the shell and simply structure, damp coursing wouldnt be required. The joints would be bonded, then tapped and screwed, with the screws being countersunk to allow for a cleaner, more flush finish.

The wood itself that would be used would be a hardwood, either oak or European Yew. Both of which have a remarkable tensile strength, in the real world Oak would be used as it is cheaper and easier to source, the yew however has a stronger tensile strenght and would be more reliable. Both woods can be waterprooofed using the same methods and options, I will personally opt for the clear coat waterproofers as I want to show off the grain and colour of the wood, however the other options include use of a tinted, semi-transparent, or full colour waterproof coating. This clear coats come in a variety of forms, being water based or oil based, oil based being more toxic but in extreme situations, more effective. In this context only a water based soloution would be required as the liquid contact would come in the form of rain or spray from cars, no sea salt from the ocean for example. I am also looking at how I will clad this facade, that may subsequently solve some of these issues. I beleive the light colouration of the wood will contrast nicely with the more dominating forms and materiality throughout the rest of the structure.

Below are my notes from the lecture :

·        Timber is an organic/flowing material - can work with this aesthetic

·        TO DO - Section through a two story house detailing the nine elements - wall/ceiling/foundations etc.

·        The wood used must be tailored to the project it’s used within.

·        Tree rings relate to their age (1 ring roughly equivalent to 10 years)

·        Cells and vessels create porous qualities within the wood

·        Soft and hardwood have very differing thermal conductivity values

·        Parallel with the grain can carry both tensile and compressive forces, whilst perpend. To the grain can only carry compressive forces.

·        Striations within the aesthetic of timber are dependent on the cut from the tree.

·        Fibreboards - timber - chipped - fibrous pup created - chipboard cut.

·        Wood is seen as a resource in central European and Scandinavian countries - rely on innovations within the sector to stop the market from going stale

·        Fundamental Manual Skills / Complimentary Layers in Platform Frame Construction / Shaping Deficit of New Technologies / The Search for an Adequate Structure andf Form / CAD-CAM-Robots

·        Timber used as a façade - sun shade element - can weather creating a unique aeshetic - silver wood

·        Can be weaved to create a unique aesthetic

·        A  great amount of pride can be taken in the process - Japanese set up their cuts 10 years before actually using the wood

·        Timber utilised in Japanese Architecture to take strides in modern techniques - 'Railway Sleeper House'  - the ceiling becomes the wall - the joints are relatively flexible as method of earthquake dampening.

·        Site preparation is extremely important, considering both safety and the environment you're building upon is of paramount importance.

·        Superstructure - extension above ground / Substructure - extension below ground - different foundations and techniques used for each one,

·        Door and window detailing is crucial, the door and window should be designed and be tailored to my own structure

·        A floor is an opportunity to create a range of spaces, not just a space for walking

·        French drain sits at the bottom of the soft ground - this is where a concrete base evolves into piles

·        Banked edge for workers to gain easy access to the ground plane where the foundations will sit.

·        Wood is becoming more and more utilised - overtaking steel and concrete construction due to various features, among which is a nicer construction.

[watchilove]

What if you could tell the exact time of sunrise or sunset at any location on the planet? Wherever you happen to be – or imagine yourself to be. Truly anywhere. Once again, Krayon introduces a first in watchmaking: Anywhere – where time marks our relationship with Earth.

Krayon’s second watchmaking creation, Anywhere, indicates the length of the day and the time at which the sun rises and sets. Krayon unveils a new interpretation of its hallmark complication, with the degree of hand finishing expected in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Krayon Anywhere defines a customised geographical and temporal space. In this way, Krayon adapts itself to the desires and deeply intimate secrets of the wearer. A reconnection with the primeval rhythms of nature.

Time is something intrinsically personal. For watchmakers, however, it is above all a dimension of space that can be measured objectively. Krayon Anywhere unites these two aspects through the complication that is its raison d’être: the moment when day and night transition from one to the other, the time of sunrise and the time of sunset.

Time, so personal and natural.

By providing this information, Krayon Anywhere is a watchmaker’s answer to a philosophical challenge. What makes it so singular? The watch displays the ephemeris, more precisely the time of sunrise and sunset, at any point on the globe chosen by its wearer. It can be the wearer’s location at that precise moment, the place of birth, the location where loved ones wait, the place where dreams are made or remembered. It can be Anywhere.

These moments and places that matter are never recorded on a standardised watch, or even by a classic complication. These essentials are personal information, defined in the circle of relations and personal memory, never before given such a deeper meaning by a watch.

When the sun rises or sets is a decisive moment of the day. When nature awakens at dawn, or prepares for rest at dusk, when it comes closest to its pristine state and allows itself to be approached. It is the time when animals drink, fish feed and predators hunt. It is the time of our connection with Earth.

This emotional dimension of time and space, at the intersection of an intimate yet concrete landscape, is Krayon’s vocation. This watchmaker’s interpretation of time takes the form of a timekeeper that goes beyond conventions and habits. It is like each morning and evening, never identical, always lived in a personal way. Anywhere‘s large peripheral ring separates the day into two sections, joining its own rhythm to the wearer’s life rhythm. As the day evolves, its length and colour change, and with them the face of the watch.

A matchless complication.

Watches with universal time or astronomical indications impose specific cities, chosen by arbitrary conventions deeply ingrained in watchmaking custom. Anywhere by Krayon takes the opposite tack, espousing the unique vision, aspirations and dreams of its wearer. It is the logical progression from Everywhere, a ‘hypercomplication’ capable of indicating the time of sunset and sunrise anywhere in the world – it was awarded the Innovation Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) in 2018. Anywhere, building on the same patent, goes to the core of a personal ephemeris.

Krayon’s Anywhere indicates the hours and minutes with dedicated hands, placed in the centre of a dial that seems suspended at the heart of the watch. It is surrounded by an annular zone upon which a small sun circulates in perpetual motion, indicating the time over 24 hours. The annular zone has two sectors: day (sky blue) and night (dark blue). The respective lengths of the sectors constantly change, indicating by their position the sunrise and sunset times that can be read from the fixed indicator ring.

These periods are intimately linked to latitude. The North-South position determines the length of the day, which is equal to the night at the equator and gradually expands towards the white night near the Arctic Circle. To integrate this geographical factor, Krayon devised a mechanical positioning system based on racks and yokes rather than a fixed, complex and not very cost-efficient cam. At the customer’s request, a Krayon watchmaker will make a simple adjustment to the movement, as often as desired.

The relative position of the two sapphire discs is determined not only by the reference position, but also by the calendar. To do this, Krayon Anywhere indicates the date and month with a hand-counter at 6 o’clock. It is a simple calendar, for which every month lasts 31 days. It requires only five quick, straightforward annual adjustments, which can be made directly with the crown and in both directions.

Evident simplicity.

A concept all its own, full of meaning and aesthetic details, the design of Krayon’s Anywhere is implicitly linked to the nature of its functionality.

Anywhere by Krayon is an ideal of beauty, a marriage of pure elegance, legibility and technical sophistication in 432 components. The second opus in a family of unusual ‘hypercomplications’, Anywhere is the natural next step from Everywhere, and at the same its opposite. Seemingly simpler, not only in its appearance, but in its use as well, more balanced. Anywhere means freedom. After all, no place is more important than where you are now, where your eyes and thoughts roam, where your memory or your heart takes you.

Anywhere is available in two interpretations: one in white gold, with blue the dominating colour; the other in 18K rose gold, with creamy white the dominant tone. The elegant shape of the 39 mm diameter case is highlighted by a flange along the bezel’s underside and over the back cover. The hollow thus created further emphasises how thin the case is. With a thickness of just 9 mm, Krayon’s Anywhere is eminently wearable. The gadroon on the applied, subtly plunging lugs further accentuates their slimness.

Rich, meaningful aesthetics.

In both versions, the dial shows the same motif as on Everywhere, the result of an extensive search for an aesthetic, and it is echoed on the face of the crown. What you see is an orb with parallels and meridians, imaginary longitudes and latitudes, an apt symbol for the global reach of Krayon’s complications. The vanishing point is centred on the date at 6 o’clock. This symbolic pole is composed of two azure zones. The hour markers are distinctive, pyramid-shaped appliques with a triangular base, identical in shape to the Y in Krayon’s identity.

Greatest care was given to the day and night discs. The two rings are cut from sapphire. One is hand-painted in dark blue, the other in sky blue. On the former, Super-Luminova™ stars stand out in the firmament. High above, the sun follows its course. Each one of its rays is unique, painstakingly finished in a subtle diamond-cutting process that is technically quite complex. Beyond the discs, the inclined and colour-coordinated fixed indicator ring serves as a 24-hour scale.

Anywhere – a dream come true.

As with Everywhere, the Anywhere calibre was also meticulously conceived and constructed by Rémi Maillat, watchmaker and founder of Krayon. It is a new movement, dedicated and designed for Anywhere, offering a power reserve of 86 hours. Of a certain width to accommodate both day and night discs, it is very thin in view of its complexity: At only 5 mm, it allows a case thickness of just 9 mm.

The regulating mechanism for the day and night discs is located at 6 o’clock. Immediately setting the Anywhere movement apart from all others, it shows the intricacy of racks and yokes, with a distinctive screw system in the centre. On either side, two discreet screws facilitate adjustment by the watchmaker.

It is a hand-wound calibre, designed in the tradition of classic movements. Its barrel is coupled to an elegant ratchet click. All perforations are countersunk. The shape of the bridges is particularly adorned, made of solid and fine lines, an inviting canvas for the art of manual bevelling. The numerous hand-worked inward and outward angles establish Anywhere on a par with the finest of contemporary executions.

Two rich years.

More than a watchmaker, Rémi Maillat, founder of Krayon, is a watch design engineer. His is a precious talent: the ability to materialise mathematical calculations into fantastic watchmaking creations. With disconcerting simplicity. Whether it is to realise the aspirations of discerning clients or to give substance to his own imagination, this gifted engineer truly masters the technical complexities of the art of watchmaking. For him, a workable concept that will keep its promise can be sketched out with a pencil.

In 2017, Rémi Maillat presented Everywhere, his first creation. A year later, he followed up with the custom-made, Everywhere Horizon, which won the Best Watchmaking Innovation of the Year award at the 2018 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.

On land and at sea, it is the sun’s course through the sky that denotes the passage of time – and allows it to be measured. Krayon’s approach was born from a dream: a mechanical movement, adjustable by hand, that would make it possible to read the time of sunrise and sunset at any point on the globe. It has become reality by succeeding in a challenge never before achieved in watchmaking: a universal mechanical calculator of the exact time of sunrise and sunset.

As a designer cum engineer, Rémi Maillat is inhabited by the particular spark that drives true creators. Everyday experiences still push him to imagine new watchmaking solutions. Nature never ceases to inspire him, especially when he can practise his passions – other than watchmaking – such as scuba diving and freediving. It was, actually, the fact of getting up too early one morning to explore the seabed that gave him the idea of a watch with a universal sunrise and sunset function… In Rémi Maillat’s hands, mathematical abstraction becomes an instrument, like a draftsman’s pen, for developing new and useful complications. Today’s watchmaker in the truest sense of the word.

In 2020, Rémi Maillat presents his new opus, faithful to the concept of the art of the singular measurement of time. A marvellous synthesis of mathematics, artistic watchmaking creation, the poetry of details and a truly philosophical dimension.

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Krayon Anywhere Technical Information

Movement: Cal. C030

Diameter:40mm

Thickness: 5.00 mm

Functions

Hours and minutes

Sunrise and sunset times

24-hour display

Simple calendar

Month

Specifications

Power reserve 86hours

Frequency 3Hz

Manual winding, with stopwork

55 jewels

432 components

Displays

Hours and minutes at centre

Sunrise and sunset times on peripheral discs

Date at 6 o’clock

Watch: Anywhere

Diameter 39 mm

Thickness 9.5 mm

Ref. C030-10 – White Gold

White gold case

Blue and silver dial

Black alligator strap

White gold buckle and pin

Ref. C030-20 – Rose Gold

Rose gold case

Two tones creamy white dial

Brown alligator strap

Rose gold buckle and pin

A Krayon Premiere: Anywhere What if you could tell the exact time of sunrise or sunset at any location on the planet?

[davidpires578]

Colgate EALL (19)

This is the final post depicting the construction of an interior for the East Asian Language department at Colgate University in upstate New York. While this concludes my scope of work, additional plastering and painting are yet to come, and once these are done I’ll share ‘final’ pics here on the Carpentry Way.

  The final push took place over a day and a half, with the first day being rather a long one. I work without breaks pretty much, barely stopping to even eat, so by the end of the day I am a bit strung out. I work like that more or less at the shop too, though I will occasionally take a lunch break.

Things went well. The tasks I looked after included:

complete rough framing and install sheetrock

align the Japanese room entry post and transom to plumb and anchor the upper portion to the wall

install a magnetically secured access cover to cusped window in Chinese room

complete wainscot

install 3 pieces of baseboard

install frieze rail (nageshi)

install plugs in the few countersunk (and screwed) holes

install hook for hanging scroll in tokonoma

hang kake-shōji on walls

adjust feet of small table to floor

There were a few minor tasks as well not worth enumerating (or which I have forgotten about already). It was a full slate of work for the time I had.

I didn’t take any ‘in-process’ pics, however Dr. Hirata, the department chair, took loads of video and photos, and at some future point there will be a video produced I’m sure. All I’ve got for now are some pictures of the space as I left it.

The first two are a panorama of the Japanese room:

On the left wall of the picture you can see the kake-shōji. It was supposed to be easy to hang, as I had purchased special fasteners from Lee Valley:

The installation instructions were simple enough: drill a 1/4″ hole in the wall, through the steel stud, and then use a #3 Phillips bit to drive the 1-Shot anchor right in. After that a wood screw can be driven in to the end of the fastener to hang whatever it is you want to hang. I followed the instructions, and when I tried to drive the anchor in, it got partway in and then the thread stripped out. I tried a second brand new fastener in the same hole, and the same result was obtained. I drilled the hole bigger. Same result. Drilled bigger yet. Same result. It simply would not work.

I suspect that the steel studs behind the wall at Colgate are significantly heavier duty than the ones pictured in the Lee Valley product page, but I have no way of knowing.

I had to go to a plan ‘B’, and it was 8:00 at night so there was no opportunity to run to the hardware store. I drilled pilot holes with some self-drilling drywall screws intended for metal studs, and then threaded in a couple of Tapcon anchor screws to those holes, fasteners which are otherwise designed for masonry walls. Those worked perfectly.

On the other wall, you can see the kake-shōji also hung, and that wall is concrete blocks behind the plaster board. Fortunately I had brought 4 of the Tapcon Screws with me, all of which had been slightly modified at my shop to fit in the concealed brass hanger cups epoxied into the backs of the kake-shōji frames:

It’s funny how seemingly minor things can suddenly become big time-consuming dramas sometimes.

An overview of the space through a professor’s office door:

Looking back the other way, showing the wainscot, door casings, and run of nageshi above that:

I suggested that at some point they may wish to consider replacing the doors with something (which I build) that goes better with the new woodwork.

Another view:

Another view:

Obviously the ceiling needs to be tidied up, and some painting work remains. However, some electrical work remains too, so that will be done in the near future and then the paint and plaster can be finished.

I’m pleased with the appearance of the new room, and especially like the shimmer of the figured avodire in view everywhere. There were loads of frustrations in terms of getting the new woodwork to fit against walls which were anything but flat or plumb, or which had square corners. While anything can be solved given enough time and scribing, etc., the constraints of the budget did not allow for this (it would have added at least a week to the job I’m sure) so in the end I simply did the best I could. The other alternative would have been to gut the rooms completely and fix the framing before applying new sheetrock, etc., however, again, budget constraint kept that out of the range of possibility. You have to cut your coat according to your cloth, as they used to say.

One bright spot to be sure was that the adhesive I brought this time actually lived up to its billing: Titebond’s Titegrab. There is none of it in New England for some unknown reason, so I had to obtain it from a Lowes down in Pennsylvania, and have it expedited up to me. An excellent product, though not without a certain learning curve.

All for this round, and all for this project. I hope you enjoyed the account of the build and installation.

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