shonan-surf-life

[shonan-surf-life]

South Chiba Surf

2022/03/19

After a going back and forth all week about where to surf the weekend, we finally decided to go to Chiba for a day trip. This is what the forecast looked like.

The conditions were a bit out of my comfort zone, but what the hell, this is a good opportunity to test how much I have progressed in bigger waves (at least big for me).

We left Shonan at 6AM, picked-up another friend in Yokohama, and arrived at the surf spot in Chiba around 9AM.

The first spot we checked, and we were greeted with this.

..... The sets looked pretty gnarly... Nerves started kicking in. I reminded my self that in case of a wipe-out I just have to keep calm and control my breathing as much as I can.

I was able to get out in to the lineup without eating any waves, which was a huge victory in itself. After 40 minutes of being too cautious and not catching any waves, and then getting caught in the inside and almost drowning, I came back in - defeated. I understood my place in this law of nature, and it is all good. I just need to keep doing this until I will be good enough to surf this kind of condition.

We decided to scout for a more forgiving spot. It was either to go an hour south were the forecast was good, or trust our instincts and go to a point break 20 minutes North.

We chose to trust our instincts and go up north to the point break. And it turned out to be the right decision. The surf was much more manageable but still firing! We surfed there the whole day, and it was a blast! To more days like this! 🍻